There are complaints that this Prussian aristocracy is socially

exclusive, is given office both in the army and in civil life too

readily; but what an aristocracy it is! These are the men whose

families gave, often their all, to make Prussia, and then to make

Germany. Service of king and country is in their blood. They get small

remuneration for their service. There is no luxury. They spurn the

temptations of money. Hundreds and hundreds of them have never been

inside the house of a rich parvenu, nor have their women. They work as

no other servants work, they live on little, they and their women and

children; and you may count yourself happily privileged if they permit

you the intimacy of their home life.

Officers and gentlemen there are, living on two thousand five hundred

dollars a year, and most of them on much less, and their wives, as

well born as themselves, darning their socks and counting the pfennigs

with scrupulous care. These are the women whose ancestors flung

themselves against the Roman foe, beside their husbands and brothers;

these are the women who gave their jewels to save Prussia; these are

the women, with the glint of steel and the light of summer skies

braided in their eyes, who have taken their hard, self-denying part in

making Prussia, and the German Empire. No wonder they despise the mere

money-maker, no wonder they will have none of his softness for

themselves, and hate what Milton calls "lewdly pampered luxury," as a

danger to their children. They know well the moral weapons that won

for this starved, and tormented, and poverty-stricken land its present

place in the world as a great power.

"And as the fervent smith of yore

Beat out the glowing blade,

Nor wielded in the front of war

The weapons that he made,

But in the tower at home still plied

His ringing trade;

"So like a sword the son shall roam

On nobler missions sent;

And as the smith remained at home

In peaceful turret pent,

So sits the while at home the mother

Well content."

I, convinced democrat that I am, know very well that there are, and

always have been, and always will be aristocrats, for there is no

national salvation without them anywhere in the world. The aristocrats

are the same everywhere, no matter what their distinctions of title,

or whether they have none. They are those who believe that they owe

their best to God and to men, and they serve. Likewise the plebeians

are the same all over the world; whatever their presumptions or

denials, they believe that they are here to get what they can out of

God and men, and they take far more than they give.

Perhaps no feature of German life is so little known, so little

understood, as this simple-living, proud, and exclusive caste, who

have made, and still protect and guard, Prussia and Germany. They say:

"We made Prussia and Germany, and we intend to guard them, both from

enemies at home and from enemies abroad!" My admiration for these men

and women is so unbounded, that I would no more carry criticism with

me into their homes, than I would carry mud into a sanctuary.

They have done much for Germany, but the best, perhaps, of all is that

they have made economy and simple living feasible and even

fashionable; they have made talent aristocratic; they have insisted

that social life shall be founded on service and breeding and ability.

They will have no dealings with Herr Muller, the rich shopkeeper, but

whatever name the distinguished artist, or public servant, or man of

science, or young giant in any field of intellectual prowess may bear,

he is welcomed. In general this welcome given by German society to

talent holds good. There is, however, a society composed of the great

landed proprietors, who live in the country, who come to Berlin

rarely, and whose horizon is limited severely to their own small

interests, their restricted circle, and by their provincial pride.

They recognize nobody but themselves, for the reason that they know

nobody and nothing else. There is an exclusiveness born of stupidity,

just as there is an exclusiveness born of a sense of duty to one's

position and traditions in the world. One must recognize that this

side of social life exists in Germany just as it exists in England,

and France, and Austria, but it is fast losing its importance and its

power.

One hears it lamented that society is changing, that the rich Jew and

the rich gentile are received where twenty-five years ago the social

portals were shut against them, and that many go to their houses who

would not have gone not many years ago. My experience is too slender

to weigh these matters in years; my contention is only that, from an

American or English stand-point, their social life is notably simple,

and still largely founded on merit and service, rather than upon the

means to provide luxury.

Though there are thousands of people received at court each year, this

does not mean that they are invited to the more intimate parties of

those in court control. They are tolerated, not welcomed. Such people

are invited to the court ball, but never thought of, even, as guests

at the small supper party of, say, a court official later in the

evening. Prussia and Germany are still ruled socially and politically

by a small group of, roughly, fifty thousand men, eight thousand of

them in the frock-coat of the civilian official, and the rest in

military uniforms. Added to this must be named a few great financiers,

shipping and mining and industrial magnates, and great land-owners,

and less than half a dozen journalists, and as many professors.

According to the census there are in all only 720 persons in Berlin

with incomes of more than $25,000 a year, and 521 of these have

between $25,000 and $60,000 a year, leaving a very small number, indeed,

with incomes adequate, from an American point of view, for extravagant

social expenditure. Of these 200, probably not 50 are figures in the

social life of the capital. It may be seen at once, therefore, that

entertaining cannot be on a lavish or spectacular scale.

The minister of foreign affairs and the imperial minister of the

interior receive salaries of 36,000 marks, with 14,000 marks

additional for expenses. The Prussian ministers have the same. Other

ministers receive 30,000 marks and 14,000 additional for expenses. The

chancellor of the empire receives 36,000 marks and 64,000 additional

for expenses. The highest receivable pension is three-fourths of the

salary--not counting the additional sum for expenses, or, as it is

named, Repraesentationsaufwand -- after forty years of service. The

foreign ambassadors to the more expensive capitals, London, Paris,

Washington, Saint Petersburg, receive 150,000 marks a year. Where one

has seen something of the innumerable demands upon the income of a

foreign ambassador, one is the more amazed that a great democracy like

ours should so restrict the salaries of its representatives abroad

that only rich men dare undertake the duty. What could be more

undemocratic!

Germany is a rich, very rich, country in the sense that it has the

most intelligent, hardest-working, most fiercely economical, and the

most rationally and most easily contented population of any of the

great powers. But Germany is not rich in surplus and liquid capital as

compared with England, France, or America. It is the more to her

credit that her capital is all hard at work. There is just so much

less for luxury. The people in the streets; the shop-windows; the

scale of charges at places of public resort and amusement; the very

small number of well-turned-out private vehicles; the comparatively

few people who live in houses and not in apartments; the simplicity of

the gowns of the women, and their inexpensive jewelry and other

ornaments; the fewer servants; the salaries and wages of all classes,

point decisively to plain living on the part of practically everybody.

Let me say very emphatically, however, that this economy means no lack

of generosity. I doubt if there are people anywhere so restricted as

to means, and so delightfully hospitable at the same time. Berlin is

not as yet under that cloud that covers the new, uncultivated, and

rich society in America, that tyranny of money which makes men and

women fearful of being without it. Such people shiver at the bare

thought of losing what money will buy, for the shameful reason that

then there would be nothing left to them; and they are driven, many of

them, both in London and in New York, to any humiliation, often to any

degradation, to avoid it. They grossly overrate the value of money,

and they exaggerate the terrors of being without it.

Professor William James, who succeeded in analyzing what is at the

back of men's brains as well as anybody, writes: "We have grown

literally afraid to be poor. We despise any one who elects to be poor

in order to simplify and save his inner life. We have lost the power

of even imagining what the ancient idealization of poverty could have

meant: the liberation from material attachments, the unbribed soul,

the manlier indifference, the paying our way by what we are or do, and

not by what we have, the right to fling away our life at any moment

irresponsibly -- the more athletic trim, in short, the moral fighting

shape. ... It is certain that the prevalent fear of poverty among the

educated classes is the worst moral disease from which our

civilization suffers." They suffer from this malady less in Germany

than in America or in England. I should like to introduce such people

into dozens of households in Berlin; alas, they could not speak or

understand the moral or mental language there, where there is

everything that makes a home's heart beat proudly and peaceably,

except money. "La prosperite decouvre les vices, et l'adversite les

vertus."

These people need no tribute from me, and for their hospitality and

friendliness I can make no adequate return. I sigh to think that we in

America know so little of them. Germany would not be where she is

without them; and I offer them as an example to my countrymen, and to

my countrywomen especially, as showing what self-sacrifice and

simplicity, and loyal service can do for a nation in times of stress;

and what high ideals and sturdy independence and contempt for luxury

can do in the dangerous days of prosperity. Unadvertised, unheralded,

keeping without murmuring or envy to their own traditions, they are

here, as everywhere, the saviors of the world.

In this great city of Berlin it may seem that I have over-emphasized

their part in the drama of the city's life. Not so! They are the

backbone of the municipal as of the national body corporate. It is no

easy industrial progress, no increasing wealth and population, no

military prowess, no isolated great leader that makes a nation or a

city. It is the men and women giving the high and unpurchasable gift

of service to the state; giving the fine example of self-sacrificing

and simple living; giving the prowess won by years of hard mental and

moral training; giving the gentle courtesy and kindly welcome of the

patrician to the stranger, who lift a nation or a city to a worthy

place in the world. Seek not for Germany's strength first in her

fleet, her army, her hordes of workers, nay, not even in her

philosophers, teachers, and musicians, though they glisten in the eyes

of all the world, for you will not find it there. It is in these quiet

and simple homes, that so few Americans and Englishmen ever enter,

that you will find the sweetness and the sternness, the indomitable

pride of service, and the self-sacrificing loyalty that won, and that

keep for Germany her place in the world.

VI "A LAND OF DAMNED PROFESSORS"

It can hardly be doubted that could Lord Palmerston have seen what I

have seen of the changes in Germany, he would at least have placed the

"damned," in another part of his famous sentence. These professors

have turned their prowess into channels which have given Germany, in

this scientific industrial age, a mighty grip upon something more than

theories. It may be dull reading to tell the tale of damned

professordom, but it is to Germany that we must all go to school in

these matters.

The American chooses his university or college because it is in the

neighborhood; because his father or other relatives went there;

because his school friends are going there; on account of the prestige

of the place; sometimes, too, because one is considered more

democratic than another; sometimes, and perhaps more often than we

think, on account of the athletics; because it is large or small; or

on account of the cost.

The German youth, owing to widely different customs and ideals,

chooses his university for other reasons. If he be of the well-to-do

classes, and his father before him was a corps student, he is likely

to go first to the university, where his father's corps will receive

him and discipline him in the ways of a corps student's life, and

rigorous ways they are, as we shall see. Young men of small means, and

who can afford to waste little time in the amusements of university

life, go at once where the more celebrated professors in their

particular line of work are lecturing.

Few students in Germany reside

during their whole course of study at one university. The student year

is divided into two so-called semesters. The student remains, say, in

Heidelberg two years or perhaps less, and then moves on, let us say,

to Berlin, or Goettingen, or Leipsic, or Kiel, to hear lectures by

other professors, and to get and to see something of the best work in

law, theology, medicine, history, or belles-lettres, along the lines

of his chosen work.

One can hardly say too much in praise of this

system. Many a medical, or law, or theological, or philosophical

student, or one who is going in for a scientific course in engineering

or mining, would profit enormously could he go from Harvard to Yale,

or to Johns Hopkins, or to Princeton, or to Columbia, and attend the

lectures of the best men at these and other universities. Many a man

would have gone eagerly to Harvard to hear James in philosophy, Peirce

in mathematics, Abbot in exegesis, or to read Greek with Palmer; or to

Yale to have heard Whitney in philology in my day; or now, to name but

a few, Van Dyke at Princeton, Sloane at Columbia, Wheeler at the

University of California, Paul Shorey at Chicago, and many others are

men whom not to know and to hear in one's student days is a loss.

The German student is at a distinct advantage in this privilege of hearing

the best men at whatever university they may be. The number of

students, indeed, at particular German universities rises and falls in

a large measure according to the fame and ability of the professors

who may be lecturing there. One can readily imagine how such men as

Hegel, or Ranke, or Mommsen, who lectured at Berlin; or Liebig or

Doellinger, at Munich; or Ewald, at Goettingen; or Sybel, at Bonn; or

Leibnitz or Schlegel, in their day, or Kuno Fischer, in my day, at

Heidelberg, must have drawn students from all parts of Germany; just

as do Harnack, and Schmidt, and Lamprecht, and Adolph Wagner,

Schmoller, or Gierke, or Schiemann, or Wach, Haeckel, List, Deitsch,

Hering, or Verworm, in these days. Though the German professors are

somewhat hampered by the fact that they are servants of the state, and

their opinions therefore on theological, political, and economic

matters restricted to the state's views, they are free as no other

teachers in the world to exploit their intellectual prowess for the

benefit of their purses. Each student pays each professor whose

lectures he attends, and as a result there are certain professors in

Germany whose incomes are as high as $50,000 a year.

Even in intellectual matters state control produces the inevitable state

laziness and indifference. One could tell many a tale of professors

who arrive late at their lecture-rooms, who read slowly, who give just

as little matter as they can, in order to make their prepared work go

as far as possible. Some of them, too, read the same lectures over and

over again, year after year, quite content that they have made a

reputation, gained a fixed tenure of their positions, and are sure of

a pension.

There are twenty-one universities in Germany, with another

already provided for this year in Frankfort, and practically the

equivalent of a university in Hamburg. The total number of students is

66,358, an increase since 1895 of 37,791. Geographically speaking, one

has the choice between Kiel, Koenigsberg, and Berlin in the north,

Munich in the south, Strassburg on the boundaries of France, or

Breslau in Silesia. At the present writing Berlin has 9,686 students,

and some 5,000 more authorized to attend lectures, over half of them

grouped under the general heading "Philosophy"; next comes Munich with

7,000, nearly 5,000 of them grouped under the headings "Jurisprudence"

and "Philosophy"; then Leipsic with 5,000; then Bonn with 4,000; and

last in point of numbers Rostock with 800 students. There are now some

1,500 women students at the German universities, but a total of 4,500

who attend lectures, and Doctor Marie Linden at the beginning of 1911

was appointed one of the professors of the medical faculty at Bonn,

but the appointment was vetoed by the Prussian ministry.

In addition to the universities is the modern development of the technical

high-schools, of which there are now eleven, one each in Berlin, Dresden,

Braunschweig, Darmstadt, Hanover, Karlsruhe, Munich, Stuttgart,

Danzig, Aix, and Breslau. These schools have faculties of

architecture, building construction, mechanical engineering,

chemistry, and general science, including mathematics and natural

science. They confer the degree of Doctor of Engineering, and admit

those students holding the certificate of the Gymnasium,

Realgymnasium, and Oberrealschule. They rank now with the

universities, and their 17,000 students may fairly be added to the

grand total number of German students, making 83,000 in all, and if to

this be added the 4,000 unmatriculated students, we have 87,000.

While the population of Germany has increased 1.4 per cent. in the last

year, the number of students has increased 4.6 per cent. and of the

total number 4.4 per cent. are women. Since the founding of the empire

the population has increased from 40,000,000 to 65,000,000, but the

number of students has increased from 18,000 to 60,000. The teaching

staffs in the universities number 3,400, and in the technical

high-schools 753, or, roughly, there are, in the higher-education

department of Germany, nearly 90,000 persons engaged; as these figures

do not include officials and many unattached teachers and students

indirectly connected with the universities. There are in addition

agricultural high-schools, agricultural institutes, and technical

schools such as veterinary high-schools, schools of mining, forestry,

architecture and building, commercial schools, schools of art and

industry; a naval school at Kiel; a colonial institute at Hamburg,

with sixty professors and tutors, where men are trained for colonial

careers, and which serves also the purpose of distributing information

of all kinds regarding the colonies; there are 400 schools which

prepare for a business career, with 50,000 pupils, and the Socialists

in Berlin maintain an academy for the instruction of their paid

secretaries and organizers in the rudiments and controversial points

of socialism, military academies at Berlin and Munich, besides some 50

schools of navigation, and 20 military and cadet institutions. There

are also courses of lectures, given under the auspices of the German

foreign office, to instruct candidates for the consular service in the

commercial and industrial affairs of Germany.

At several of the

universities evening extension lectures are given, an innovation first

tried at Leipsic, where more than seven thousand persons paid small

fees to attend the lectures in a recent year.

If one considers the

range of instruction from the Volkschulen and Fortbildungsschulen up

through the skeleton list I have mentioned to the universities, and

then on beyond that to the thousands still engaged as students in the

commerce and industry of Germany, as, for example, the technically

employed men in the Krupp Works at Essen, or the Color Works at

Elberfeld, to mention two of hundreds, it is seen that Germany is gone

over with a veritable fine-tooth comb of education. There is not only

nothing like it, there is nothing comparable to it in the world. If

training the minds of a population were the solution of the problems

of civilization, they are on the way to such solution in Germany.

Unfortunately there is no such easy way out of our troubles for

Germany or for any other nation. Some of us will live to see this

fetich of regimental instruction of everybody disappear as astrology

has disappeared. There is a Japanese proverb which runs, "The bottom

of lighthouses is very dark."

As early as 1717 Frederick William I in

an edict commanded parents to send their children to school, daily in

summer, twice a week in winter. Frederick the Great at the close of

the Seven Years' War, 1764, insisted again upon compulsory school

attendance, and prescribed books, studies, and discipline. At the

beginning of the nineteenth century began a great change in the

primary schools due to the influence of Pestalozzi, and in the

secondary schools owing to the efforts of Herder, Frederic August

Wolf, William Humboldt, and Suenern. Humboldt was the Prussian minister

of education for sixteen months. In 1809 he sent a memorial to the

King, urging the establishment and endowment of a university in

Berlin. He used his authority and his great influence to further

higher and secondary education, and fixed the main lines of action

which were followed for a century. He hoped that a liberal education

of his countrymen would make for both an intellectual and moral

regeneration, and emancipate the people from their sluggish obedience

to conventionality. The schools then were part of the ecclesiastical

organization and have never ceased to be so wholly, and until recently

the title of the Prussian minister has been: "Minister of

Ecclesiastical Affairs, Instruction, and Medical Affairs." That part

of the minister's title, "Medical Affairs," has within the last few

months been eliminated.

The French Revolution, and the dismemberment

of Prussia at Tilsit, put a stop to orderly progress. Stein and his

colleagues, however, started anew; students were sent to Switzerland

to study pedagogical methods; provincial school-boards were

established, and about 1850 all public-school teachers were declared

to be civil servants; and later, in 1872, during Bismarck's campaign

against the Jesuits, all private schools were made subject to state

inspection. In Prussia to-day no man or woman may give instruction

even as a governess or private tutor, without the certificate of the

state.

This control of education and teaching by a central authority

is an unmixed blessing. In Prussia, at any rate, the officials are

hard-working, conscientious, and enthusiastic, and the system, whether

one gives one's full allegiance to it or not, is admirably worked out.

Above all, it completely does away with sham physicians, sham doctors

of divinity, sham engineers, and mining and chemical experts, sham

dentists and veterinary surgeons, who abound in our country, where

shoddy schools do a business of selling degrees and certificates of

proficiency in everything from exegesis to obstetrics. These fakir

academies are not only a disgrace but a danger in America, and here,

as in other matters, Germany has a right to smile grimly at certain of

our hobbledehoy methods of government.

The elementary schools, or

Volkschulen, are free, and attendance is compulsory from six to

fourteen; in addition, the Fortbildungsschulen, or continuation

schools, can also be made compulsory up to eighteen years of age.

There are some 61,000 free public elementary schools with over

10,000,000 pupils, and over 600 private elementary schools with 42,000

pupils who pay fees.

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