Into the matter of the quaint features of the speech of the English

countryside, or the wonders of the Cockney dialect, the unlearned

foreigner hardly dare venture. It is sufficient for us to wonder why a

railroad should be a railway. When it becomes a "rilewie" we are

inclined, in our speculation, "to pass," as we say over here. And ale,

when it is "ile," brings to mind a pleasant story. A humble Londoner,

speaking of an oil painting of an island, referred to it as "a painting

in ile of an oil."

An American friend of mine, resident in London, insists that where

there is an English word for a thing other than the American word for

it, the English word is in every case better because it is shorter. He

points to tram, for surface-car; and to lift, for elevator. Still

though it may be a finer word, hoarding is not shorter than billboard;

nor is "dailybreader" shorter than commuter. I think we break about

even on that score.

This, however, would seem to be true: where the same words are employed

in a somewhat different way the English are usually closer to the

original meaning of the word. Saloon bar, for instance, is intended to

designate a rather aristocratic place, above the public bar; while the

lowest "gin mill" in the United States would be called a "saloon." I

know an American youth who has thought all the while that Piccadilly

Circus was a show, like Barnum and Bailey's. With every thing that is

round in London called a circus, he must have imagined it a, rather

hilarious place.

The English "go on" a good deal about our slang. They used to be fond

of quoting in superior derision in their papers our, to them, utterly

unintelligible baseball news. Mr. Crosland, to drag him in again, to

illustrate our abuse of "the language," quotes from some tenth-rate

American author--which is a way they have had in England of judging our

literature--with the comment that "that is not the way John Milton

wrote." Not long ago Mr. Crosland became involved in a trial in the

courts in connection with Oscar Wilde, Lord Alfred Douglas and Robert

Ross. He defended himself with much spirit and considerable

cleverness. Among other things he said, as reported in the press:

"What is this game? This gang are trying to do me down. Here I am a

poor man up against two hundred quid (or some such amount) of counsel."

Well, that wasn't the way John Milton talked, either.

The English slang for money is a pleasant thing: thick'uns and

thin'uns; two quid, five bob; tanners and coppers. And they have a

good body of expressive and colourful speech. "On the rocks" is a neat

and poetic way of saying "down and out." It is really not necessary to

add the word "resources" to the expression "on his own." A "tripper"

is a well-defined character, and so is a "flapper," a "nipper," and a

"bounder." There had to be some word for the English "nut," as no

amount of the language of John Milton would describe him; and while the

connotation of this word as humour is different with us, the

appellation of the English, when you have come to see it in their

light, hits off the personage very crisply. To say that such a one

"talks like a ha'penny book" is, as the English say, "a jolly good

job." And a hotel certainly is presented as full when it is pronounced

"full up." A "topper" would be only one kind of a hat. Very well,

then it is quite possible, we see, to be "all fed up," as they say in

England, with English slang.

Humorous Englishmen sometimes rather fancy our slang; and make naive

attempts at the use of it. In England, for instance, a man "gets the

sack" when he is "bounced" from his job. So I heard a lively

Englishman attracted by the word say that so and so should "get the

bounce."

In writing, the Englishman usually employs "the language." He has his

yellow journals, indeed, which he calls "Americanised" newspapers. But

crude and slovenly writing certainly is not a thing that sticks out on

him. What a gentlemanly book reviewer he is always! We have here in

the United States perhaps a half dozen gentlemen who review books. Is

it not true that you would get tired counting up the young English

novelists who are as accomplished writers as our few men of letters?

The Englishman has a basketful of excellent periodicals to every one of

ours. And in passing it is interesting to note this. When we are

literary we become a little dull. See our high-brow journals! When we

frolic we are a little, well, rough. The Englishman can be funny, even

hilarious, and unconsciously, confoundedly well bred at the same time.

But he does have a rotten lot of popular illustrated magazines over

there compared to ours.

When you return from a sojourn of several months in the land of "the

language" you are immediately struck very forcibly by the vast number

of Americanisms, by the richness of our popular speech, by the "punch"

it has, and by the place it holds in the printed page at home. In a

journey from New York I turned over in the smoking-car a number of

papers I had not seen for some time, among them the New York _Evening

Post_, _Collier's_, _Harper's_, _Puck_, and the Indianapolis _News_.

Here, generally without quotation marks and frequently in the editorial

pages, I came across these among innumerable racy phrases: nothing

doing, hot stuff, Right O!, strong-arm work, some celebration, has 'em

all skinned, mad at him, this got him in bad, scared of, skiddoo, beat

it, a peach of a place, get away with the job, been stung by the party,

got by on his bluff, sore at that fact, and always on the job. I

learned that the weather man had put over his first frost last night,

that a town we passed had come across with a sixteen-year-old burglar,

and that a discredited politician was attempting to get out from under.

Perhaps it is not to be wondered at that the Englishman frequently

fails to get us.

You note a change in the whole atmosphere of language. A pronounced

instance of this difference is found in public signs. You have been

seeing in English conveyances the placards in neat type posted about

which kindly request the traveller not to expectorate upon the floor of

this vehicle, as to do so may cause inconvenience to other passengers

or spread disease, and so forth and so on. Over here:

_Don't Spit_?

_This means You_!

This is about the way our signs of this kind go. Now what about all

this? I used to think many person just returned from England

ridiculously affected in their speech. And many of them are--those who

say caun't when they can't do it unconsciously. That is, over here.

In Britain, perhaps, it is just as well to make a stagger at speaking

the way the Britains do. When you accidently step on an Englishman's

toe, it is better to say "I'm sorry!" or simply "sorry," than to beg

his pardon or ask him to excuse you. This makes you less conspicuous,

and so more comfortable. And when you stay any length of time you fall

naturally into English ways. Then when you come back you seem to us,

to use one of the Englishman's most delightful words, to "swank"

dreadfully. And in that is the whole story.

Mr. James declares that in the work of two equally good writers you

could still tell by the writing which was that of the Englishman and

which that of the American. The assumption of course is that where

they differed the American would be the inferior writer. Mr. James

prefers the English atmosphere. And the Englishman is inclined to

regard us in our deviation as a sort of imperfect reproduction of

himself. What is his is ours, it is true; but what's ours is our own.

That is, we have inherited a noble literature in common. But we write

less and less like an Englishman all the while. Our legacy of language

brought over in the Mayflower has become adapted to our own

environment, been fused in the "melting-pot," and quickened by our own

life to-day. Whether for better or for worse--it may be either--the

literary touch is rapidly going by the board in modern American

writing. One of the newer English writers remarks: "A few carefully

selected American phrases can very swiftly kill a great deal of dignity

and tradition."

Why should we speak the very excellent language spoken in the tight

little isle across the sea? In Surrey they speak of the "broad Sussex"

of their neighbours in the adjoining county. Is it exactly that we

caun't? Or that we just don't? Because we have an article more to our

purpose, made largely from English material, but made in the United

States?

XIV

HUNTING LODGINGS

Some people say that it is the most awful trial.

But it isn't so at all.

One of the most entertaining things that can be done in the world, so

full of interesting things, is to go hunting lodgings. Also, it is one

of the most enlightening things that can be done, for, pursued with

intelligence and energy, it gives one an excellent view of humankind;

that is, of a particularly human kind of humankind. It is a confoundly

Christian thing to do--hunting lodgings--because it opens the heart to

the queer ways, and speech, and customs of the world.

Now, I myself hunt lodgings as some men hunt wild game.

Nothing is better when one is out of sorts, somewhat run down, and

peevish with the world generally than to go out one fine afternoon and

hunt lodgings In some remote part of town.

When in a foreign city, especially, the first thing I myself do, as

soon as I am comfortably settled somewhere--and after, of course,

having looked up the celebrated sights of the place, the Abbey, the

Louvre, Grant's Tomb---is to put in a day or so hunting lodgings.

Even to read in the papers of lodgings to let is refreshing and

educational. All lodgings are "sunny"--in the papers. They are let

mainly by "refined" persons, and are wonderfully "quiet." I remember

last summer in London there was "a small sitting to let to a young

lady." Lodgings, by the way, are usually "apartments" in England, as

you know. Though, indeed, it is true that when a gentleman rents over

there what we call a "furnished room" he is commonly said to "go into

lodgings." A fine phrase, that; it is like to that fine old expression

"commencing author." And that reminds me: the most fascinating

lodgings to hunt, perhaps, anywhere, are called "chambers." These

which I mean are in the old Inns of Court in London. And the most

charming of these remaining is Staple Inn, off Holborn. I used

frequently to hunt chambers in "the fayrest Inne of Chancerie." There

are no "modern conveniences" there. You draw your own water at a pump

in the venerable quadrangle, and you "find" your own light. But to

return:

There was also last summer an apartment to let to a "respectable man"

or, the announcement said, it "might do for friends." One of the

reasons why many people are bored by hunting lodgings is that they are

not humble in spirit. They seek proud lodgings.

As to apartment houses, which are a very different matter: the

newspapers publish at various seasons of the year copious

Apartment-House Directories, with innumerable half-tone illustrations

of these more or less sumptious places. And these directories are

competent commentaries on their subject. George Moore remarked, "With

business I have nothing to do--my concern is with art." Except that I

live in one, with apartment houses I have nothing to do--my concern is

with lodgings.

There is only one philosophical observation to be made upon apartment

houses. And that is this: How can all these people afford to live in

them? When you go to look at apartments you are shown a place that you

don't like particularly. You don't think, Oh, how I'd just love to

live here if I could only afford it! But you ask the rental as a

matter of form. And you learn that this apartment rents for a sum

greater (in all likelihood) than your entire salary. And yet, there

are miles and miles of apartment houses even better than that. And

goodness knows how many thousand people live in them! People whose

names you never see in the newspapers as ones important in business, in

society, art, literature, or anything else. Obscure people! Very

ordinary people! Now where do they get all that money? But about

lodgings:

I one time went to look at lodgings in Patchin Place. I had heard that

Patchin Place was America's Latin Quarter. I thought it would be well

to examine it. Patchin Place is a cul-de-sac behind Jefferson Market.

A bizarre female person admitted me to the house there. It was not

unreasonable to suppose that she had a certain failing. She slip-slod

before me along a remarkably dark, rough-floored and dusty hall, and up

a rickety stair. The lodging which she had to let was interesting but

not attractive. The tenant, it seemed, who had just moved away had

many faults trying to his landlady. He was very delinquent, for one

thing, in the payment of his rent. And he was somewhat addicted to

drink. This unfortunate propensity led him to keep very late hours,

and caused him habitually to fall upstairs.

Well, I told her, by way of making talk, that I believed I was held to

be a reasonably honest person, and that I was frequently sober.

"Oh," she said, "I can see that you are a gentleman--in your way," she

added, in a murmur.

So, you see, in hunting lodgings you not only see how others live, but

how you seem to others.

It is certainly curious, the places in which to dwell which one is

shown in hunting lodgings. Once I was given to view a room in which

was a strange table-like affair constructed of metal. "You wouldn't

mind, I suppose," said the lady of the lodging, "if this remained in

the room?"

"Oh, not at all," I replied. "But what is it?"

"Why, it's an operating table," she explained. "Of course, you know,"

she added, "that I'm a physician. And," she continued, "of course I

should want to make use of it now and then, but not regularly, not

every day."

To a lady with a patch over her eye with lodgings to let in Broome

Street I one time stated, by way of being communicative, that I was

often in my room a good deal doing some work there. Ah! With many

ogles and grimaces, she whispered hoarsely, with an effort at a sly

effect, that "that was all right here. She understood," she said.

Perfectly "safe place for that," it was. "The gentlemen who had the

room before were something of the same kind."

As you know, "references" frequently are demanded of one hunting

lodgings. To get into a really nice place one must really be a very

nice person. "You know, I have a daughter," sighs the really nice

landlady.

To obtain lodgings in Kensington one must be very well-to-do,

particularly if one would be on the "drawing room floor." "I like

these rooms very much," I said to a prim person there, and I hesitated.

"But I suppose they are too dear for you," she said.

How careful one must be hunting lodgings in England about "extras."

Lodgings made in the U.S.A. are all ready to live in, when you have

paid your rent. But over on the other side, you recall, the rent, so

amazingly cheap, is merely an item. Light, "coals," linen, and

"attendance" are all "extra."

I met an interesting person letting lodgings in Whitechapel. She was

not attractive physically. Her chief drapery was an apron. This,

indeed, was fairly adequate before. But--I think she was like the

ostrich who sticks his head in the sand.

My sister-in-law, a highly intelligent woman------ There are, by the

way, people who will think anything. Some may say that I am ending

this article rather abruptly.

My sister-in-law, a highly intelligent woman, used to say, in

compositions at school when stumped by material too much for her, that

she had in her eye, so to say, things "too numerous to mention."

Anybody who would chronicle his adventures in hunting lodgings is

confronted by incidents, humorous, wild, bizarre, queer, strange,

peculiar, sentimental, touching, tragic, weird, and so on and so forth,

"too numerous to mention."

XV

MY FRIEND, THE POLICEMAN

To the best of my knowledge and belief (as a popular phrase has it), I

am the only person in the United States who corresponds with a London

policeman. About all you know about the London policeman is that he is

a trim and well-set-up figure and an efficient-looking officer. When

you have asked him your way he has replied somewhat thus: "Straight up

the road, sir, take your first turning to the right, sir, the second

left, sir, and then at the top of the street you will find it directly

before you, sir." You have, perhaps, heard that the London police

force offers something like an honourable career to a young man, that

"Bobbies" are decently paid, that they are advanced systematically, may

retire early on a fair pension, and that frequently they come from the

country, as their innocent English faces and fresh complexions

indicate. Sometimes also you have observed that in directing you they

find it necessary to consult a pocket map of the town. Your general

impression doubtless is that they are rather nice fellows.

It was in Cheyne Walk that I met my policeman. I had got off the 'bus

at Battersea Bridge, and was seeking my way to Oakley Street, where I

had been directed to lodgings described as excellent. He was a large,

fat man, with a heavy black moustache; and he had a very pleasant

manner. When I came out that evening for a walk along the Embankment I

came across him on Albert Bridge, at the "bottom," as they say over

there, of my street.

"You're still here, sir," he remarked cheerfully. I asked him how long

Mr. Whistler's Battersea Bridge had been gone, and he told me I forget

how many years. He had seen it and had been here all the while. In

the course of time he directed me a good deal about in Chelsea, and so

it was that I came to chat with him frequently in the evenings, for he

"came on" at six and was "off" some time early in the morning.

I was a source of some considerable interest to him with my odd foreign

ways. "When are you going 'ome?" he asked me one day when our

friendship had ripened.

"Oh, some time in the fall," I replied.

"In the fall?" he queried in a puzzled way.

"Why, yes," I said; "September or October."

"Oh," he remarked, "in the autumn." And I heard him murmur musingly,

"In the fall of the leaves."

Sometimes I met him in the company of his colleague, the "big un," or

"baby," as I learned he was familiarly called, a very tall man with

enormous feet clad in boots that glistened like great mirrors, who

rocked as he walked, like a ship. My friend had very bright eyes.

They sparkled with merriment one day when he said to the big un,

nodding toward me, "He's going 'ome in the fall."

It was a warm evening along the side of old Father Thames. My friend,

with much graceful delicacy, made it known to me that a drop of "ile"

now and then did not go bad with one tried by the cares of a policeman.

So we set out for the nearby "King's Head and Eight Bells." When we

came to this public house I discovered that it was apparently

absolutely impossible for my friend to go in. He instructed me then in

this way: I was to go in alone and order for my friend outside a pint

of "mull and bitter, in a tankard." The potman, he informed me, would

bring it out to him. The expense of this refreshment was not heavy; it

came to one penny ha'penny. The services of the obliging potman were

gratuitous. I found my friend in the pathway outside with the tankard

between his hearty face and the sky. When he had concluded his

draught, he thanked me, smacked his lips, wiped his mouth with a large

handkerchief, and hurried away, as, he said, "the inspector" would be

along presently. Just why the inspector would regard "ile" in the open

air in view of the whole world less an evil than a tankard of mull and

bitter in a public house I cannot say. But it may be that as long as

one is in the open one can still keep one eye on one's duty.

I was hailed several days after this by my friend, who approached

rapidly. Well, I thought, he has been very useful to me, and three

ha'pennies are not much.

"I have something for you," said my friend, somewhat heated by his

haste.

"You have?" I said. "What is it?"

"It's a rose," replied my friend.

"A what?" I asked.

"A flower," said my friend, recognising that we did not speak exactly

the same language. "You know what that is?"

"Oh, yes. I know what a flower is," I said. "Where have you got it?"

"I have secreted it in the churchyard, sir," he replied. "I'll fetch

it directly?" he added, and was off.

When he returned through the gloaming he put the flower through my

buttonhole. "A lady dropped it out of her carriage," he said; "and I

thought of you when I picked it up." He stooped and smelled it.

"Hasn't it," he said, "a lovely scent?"

I had lived in New York a good while and I had somehow come to think of

policemen rather as men of action than as poets. But then in New York

we do not dwell in a flower garden; we are not filled with a love of

horses, dogs, and blossoms; and we do not all speak unconsciously a

literary language.

My friend was very eager that I should let him "hear from" me upon my

return to the States, and he particularly desired a postcard picturing

a skyscraper. So he gave me his address, which was:

"W. C. Buckington, P. C. B. Deyersan, Chelsea Police Station, King's

Road, Chelsea, S.W."

In acknowledgment of my postcard I received a letter, which I think

should not remain in the obscurity of my coat pocket. I wish to submit

it to public attention as a model of all that a letter from a good

friend should be, and so seldom is! There is an engaging modesty in so

large a man's referring to himself continually with a little letter

"i." My correspondent tells me of himself, he gives me intimate news

of the place of my recent sojourn, he touches with taste and feeling

upon the great subject of our time, he conveys to me patently sincere

sentiments of his good will, and he leaves me with much appreciation of

his excellent nature and honest heart. Occasional personal

peculiarities in his style, deviations in unessential things from the

common form, give a close personal touch to his message. This is my

friend's letter:

"DEAR FRIEND--

"It is with Great pleasure for to answer your post Card that i received

this morning i was very pleased to receive it and to know that you are

still in the land of the Living i have often thought about you and as i

had not seen you i thought you had Gone home i have shown the Card to

Jenkens and the tall one and also a nother Policeman you know and they

all wish me to Remember them Verry kindly to you they was surprised to

think you had taken the trouble to write to me they said he is a Good

old sort not forgetting the little drops we had at the six bells and

Kings Head.

"P. H. What do you think of this terrable war it is shocking i have

just Got the news that a cousin of mine is wounded and he is at Clacton

on sea he is a Sergt in the 1th Coldstreams Gds got a wife and 4

Children i have been on the sick list this Last 17 days suffering from

Rumitism but i am better London is very quiet Especially at Night the

Pubs Close at 11 m. and half the Lights in the streets are out surch

Lights flashing all round 2 on hyde Park Corner 2 Lambert Bridge 2 War

office dear Friend i hope i shall have the Pleasure to receive a Letter

from you before long Now i think that this is all i have to say at

present so will close with my best respects to you your

"Sincere friend

"WILLIAM CHARLES BUCKINGTON."

The letter which later I sent him was returned to me by the Post

Office. And that is all that I know of my friend, man of ardent nature

and gentle feeling, lover of flowers, London policeman, gone, perhaps,

to the wars. Cheyne Walk would not be Cheyne Walk again to me without

him.

XVI

HELP WANTED--MALE, FEMALE

The people who (because they think they don't need to) do not read the

"Help Wanted" "ads" in the newspapers really ought to do this, anyway for

a week or so in every year. They are the people, above all others, that

would be most benefited by this department of journalism.

Now, there is nobody who more than myself objects in his spirit to the

very common practice of this one's saying to that one that he, or she,

"ought to" do this or that thing. Nobody knows all the circumstances in

which another is placed. Some people insist upon saying "under the

circumstances." But that is wrong. One is surrounded by circumstances;

one is not under them, as though they were an umbrella. Nobody ought to

say "under the circumstances." However, this is merely by the by.

It's a queer thing, though, that Mr. Hilaire Belloc, who certainly writes

some of the best English going, says that "under the" and so forth is all

right. Certainly it is not. But, as I said before, this is not a point

about which we are talking.

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