In this rhythmic moving one thinks as to a tune. To sit thus

absolutely silent, absent in thought completely, even with that friend

one wears in one's heart's core, will at length become dull for one or

other; sitting thus one is tempted, too, to speech. Walking, it is not

so. One may talk or one may not. If both wish to think, both feel as

if something sociable is being done in just walking together. If one

does not care to go wool-gathering, the other does not leave him

without entertainment; walking alone is entertainment. It is assumed,

of course, that one goes a journey in silence as in speech with the

companion with whom one has been best seasoned. Silently walking, the

movement of the mind keeps step in thought exactly with the movement of

the man, so that the pace is a thermometer of the temperature at that

moment of one's brain.

One who has written on going a journey as well perhaps as the world

will ever see it done owned that he never had had a watch. Further, he

intimated that the possession of one was an indication of poverty of

mental resource. It was his own wont, he said, to pass hours, whole

days, unconscious of the night of time. He described his father as

taking out his watch to look at whenever he could think of nothing else

to do. His father, our author says, was no metaphysician. It must be

confessed that one now writing of journeys, sometimes, somewhat

unmetaphysician-like, conscious of the flight of time, has

communication with a watch; and, finding the day well advanced,

decides, speaking very figuratively, to lay the cloth, beneath some

twisted, low, gnarled apple tree.

"At the next shadow," he suggests.

"Let's wait until we get to the top of this hill, first."

"Here we are."

Sweet rest! when one throws one's members down upon the turf and there

lets them lie, as if they were so many detached packages dropped. Then

one feels the exquisite nerve luxury of having legs: while one rests

them. One's back could lie thus prone forever. One feels, sucking all

the rich pleasure of it, that one couldn't move one's arms, lift one's

hand, if one had to. What are the world's rewards if this is not one!

At length in going a journey comes a time when one tiredly shrinks from

the work of speech, when observation dozes, and thought lolls like a

limp sail that only idly stirs at the passing zephyrs; the legs like

piston-rods strike on; when the pleasure is like that almost of dull

narcotics; one realises only dimly that one is moving. At such times

as these, coming from one knows not whence, and one feels too weak to

search back to discover, there flit across the mind strange fragments,

relevant, as they seem, to nothing whatever present.

When a journey has been made one way, the trick has been done; the

superfluous energy which inspired it has found escape; the way to

return is not by walking. A friend to fatigue is this, that in walking

back one is not on a voyage of discovery; one knows the way and very

much what one will see on it; one knows the distance. In fact, the

fruit has been plucked: the bloom is gone; to walk back would be like

tedious marching with a regiment. One should return resting. On

trains one _returns_ from a journey.

Whoso hath life, one thinks as his journey draws to its close, let him

live it! What does it profit a man, if he gain the whole world and

never know his own soul?

III

GOING TO ART EXHIBITIONS

There are two opposing views as to going to art exhibitions. And much

with a good deal of reason may be said on both sides. There is one very

vigorous attitude which holds that the pictures are the thing. This,

indeed, is a perfectly ponderable theory. But it may be questioned

whether in its ardour it does not go a little far. For it affirms that

people are a confounded nuisance at art exhibitions, and should not be

permitted to be there, to distract one's attention from the peaceful

contemplation of works of art, and to infuriate one by their asinine

remarks in the holy presence of beauty. I have heard it declared with

very impressive spirit, and reasoned with much force, that only one

person, or at most only one person and his chosen companion, should be

allowed in an art gallery at a time. It is debatable, however, whether

this intellectually aristocratic idea is altogether practicable. On the

other hand, was it not even Little Billie who found the people at art

exhibitions frequently more interesting than the pictures?

Anyhow, persons who write about art exhibitions confine themselves

exclusively to the subject of art. When they gossip it is about the

pictures, the painters, and the sculpture. True, of course, this is

their job, and then, these persons go on press days and so only see,

outside of that which is intentionally exhibited, other critics.

Now, there is nothing in all the world quite like art exhibitions.

Beyond any other sort of show they possess a spirit which (to use a pet

and an excellent critical expression of one of our foremost art critics)

is "grand, gloomy, and peculiar." You feel this charged atmosphere at

once at an art exhibition. You walk softly, you speak low, and you

endeavour to become as intelligent as possible. Art exhibitions, in

short, present various features indigenous to themselves which, so far as

I am aware, have not before been adequately commented upon. The

principal observations which they solicit are as follows:

First, art exhibitions are attended by two classes of people: very

fine-looking people, and funny-looking people. There is a very striking

kind of a young man goes to art exhibitions that I myself never

accomplish seeing anywhere else, though sometimes I see pictures of him.

This young man is superbly patrician. You may have remarked this

singular phenomenon. All the young men in all the advertisements in the

magazine _Vanity Fair_ are the same young man, whether riding in a

splendid motor car, elegantly attending the play, or doing a little

shooting of birds. You know him, for one thing, by his exquisite

moustache. This fastidiously groomed, exclusively tailored young man, to

be seen in the pages spoken of and at art exhibitions, is certainly not

of Art, nor is he of business. He takes no account whatever, apparently,

of time, as men of business do; and manifestly one could not work in such

a moustache and such clothes without mussing them. He is, in fine, of

Vanity Fair. Oscar Wilde was, as usual, wrong when he said that all

beautiful things were quite useless. This immaculate young man's

practical function at art exhibitions, as perhaps elsewhere, is that of

escort.

He is escort to groups of very handsome and very expensive-looking young

ladies; and these fragrant, rustling groups, with the waxen, patrician

young man in tow, stroll slowly about, catalogues unnoticed in hand,

without pause skirting the picture-hung walls. They are very still, and

they gaze upon the art that they pass with the look of a doe

contemplating the meaning of the appearance of a man. The perfect

escorts of these groups, who would seem naturally to be rather gay young

men, look very serious indeed. Now one of them gracefully, though as if

careful not to make any noise, bends to one of the young ladies; and,

indicating by a solemn look one of the paintings, he whispers to her

apparently concerning it. She silently nods: it is, evidently, quite as

he says. When an art exhibition is so undertakery a thing you wouldn't

think that one would come. Though perhaps it is that one ought.

At any rate, there is quite a turn-out to-day moving beneath the ghostly

glow of the shrouded sky-light ceiling. Half the Avenue seems to be

here. What a play it is, this highly urban throng! Let us sit here on

this divan down the middle of the room. With what a stately march the

pictures go in their golden frames along the symphonious, burlap walls!

There, by that copious piece of intelligence, Manet's "Music Lesson," is--

But see! What has come over our earnest group? Those who compose it are

all quite changed. They look as happy as can be, all beaming with

smiles, their backs to the neighbouring walls. Friends, it seems, have

greeted them. How they all bubble on, all about the outside world! But

goodness! Now what is the matter? Suddenly one of the newcomers is

struck by a startled look. She sees, that is it, one of the pictures.

In an arrested voice she says: "Oh, isn't that perfectly lovely!" At

once the happy light fades from the faces of all. An awed hush falls

upon them as stiffly they turn their heads in the direction of her view.

"Charming!" one of the young men breathes, staring intently at the

painting which has come upon them. That it is awkward for everybody is

plain. But, happily, there is much rebound to youth. One of the young

ladies, at length, shakes herself free from the pall upon her spirits;

the mesmeric spell is broken; and presently all are chatting again, gaily

oblivious to Art.

By the way, there is the proprietor of the gallery, just before the three

Renoir pastels. Is there anything about art exhibitions that more

enlists the imagination than the study of the "dealers" themselves? The

gentlemen who preside at art exhibitions fall, rather violently, into

three, perhaps four, classes. You have, I dare say, been repeatedly

struck by the quaintly inappropriate character in appearance of those of

one of these classes. I mean, of course, those very horsey-looking men,

with decidedly "hard" faces, loudly dressed, and dowered with hoarse

voices. They would seem to be bookmakers, exceedingly prosperous

publicans, bunco-brokers, militant politicians--anything save of the

Kingdom of Art. Are their polished Bill Sykes' exteriors but bizarre

domiciles for lofty souls? I cannot tell.

Here and there, it is true, you find the aesthete in effect among

dealers: the wired moustaches, the spindle-legged voice, and the ardent

spirit in discussing his wares with lady visitors. Our horsey type seems

rather ponderous and phlegmatic in this matter. Then there is, too, a

land of art exhibition which is very close indeed to Art, a kind of

spirited propaganda, in fact, which is presided over by those of

hierarchical character, beings as to hair and cravat, swarthy complexion

and mystic gesticulation, holy from the world and mocked by the profane.

But, to my mind, the most satisfying sort of a host to observe at an art

exhibition is that of the description of this admirable dealer before us.

Benign, frock-coated, hands clasped behind him, he stands, symbol of

gentlemanly, merchantly dignity. Occasionally he rises upon his toes,

and then sinks again to his heels obviously with satisfaction. But that

which proclaims the perfect equity of his mind is this: his nice

recognition of the nuances in human kind. You perceive that his bow to

each of his guests, that he recognises at all, is graduated according to

the precise degree of that person's value to Art; that to some few, royal

patrons presumably, being at an angle of forty-five degrees; while a

common amateur of Art is acknowledged by one of five. Where--to continue

the paraphrase of a pleasant observation upon Mr. George Brummell--it is

a mere question of recognising the fact that a certain person dwells on

the same planet with Art "a slight relaxation of the features" is made to

suffice.

So! This profound bow is plainly meant for a particular tribute to one

who wears the richest purple. Lo! He advances with unclasped hands.

Pleasure beams from his countenance. Without such as she Art, and

dealers, and galleries, and the recorded beauty of the world would

perforce pass away. This entertaining personage, who is the great flurry

at art exhibitions, is of the novelists' dowager Duchess type. A short,

obese, and jovial figure, or dried and withered but imperious

distinction, as the case may be. There is much crackling of fine

garments, a brilliant display of lorgnette, and this penetrating and

comprehensive royal critical dictum: "Isn't that interesting! So full of

feeling."

Two outstanding features, you mark, of art exhibitions everywhere are

here presented. Is any one who doesn't know what he is talking about at

art exhibitions (and which of us does?) properly equipped for attendance

there without this happy esoteric phrase "full of feeling"? It is safe,

or as safe as anything can be, to say about any picture. It graphically

indicates in the speaker delicate sensitivity and emotional

responsiveness to Art. And, most beneficently, it subtly evades anything

like the trying ordeal of an analysis of a work of art. It is, indeed,

invaluable.

The other thing is this: There is no place going which is so well adapted

to the exhibition of handsome, fashionable, or eccentric eye-glasses as

an art exhibition. You observe there all that is newest and classy in

glasses, and you are insistently invited to admiring study of the art of

wearing queer glasses effectively, and of taking them off, letting them

bound on their leash, doubling them up, opening them out, and putting

them on with a gesture.

The complimentary type to the storied Duchess at art exhibitions is

represented by yonder portly blood, in this case a replica of the late

King Edward. The fruitful spectacle of art exhibitions, I think,

presents nothing which gives one a more gratifying sense of their dignity

and of the imperial character of Art than the presence there of these

patently highly solvent, ruddy joweled, admirably tailored, and

impressively worldly looking connoisseurs of painting to be seen

scrutinising the pictures at close range, in a near-sighted way, and

rather grimly, as though somewhat sceptically appraising possibly dubious

merchandise.

Hello, there's Mr. Chase! And that's a fortunate thing, too, as no

sympathetic picture of a representative American art exhibition should

omit Mr. Chase. Whether or not we think of him as our premier painter,

we should be inordinately proud of him. Undoubtedly he is a great

artist. He has wrought himself in the grand manner. In person he

delights the eye, and satisfies the imagination. With his inevitable

top-hat, his heavy eye-glasses cord, his military moustaches and upward

pointing beard, his pouter-pigeon carriage, his glowing spats and his

boutonniere, his aroma of distinction, and his ruddy consciousness of his

prestige, he is our great tour-de-force as a figure in the artistic

scene. He is here, naturally, now the target of popular interest.

The practice of having artists shown at their own exhibitions is one too

little cultivated. The Napoleonic brow and the Napoleonic forelock

(famous in their circle) of George Luks, the torrential Luksean mirth,

how would not their actual presence open the spiritual eyes of visiting

school-children to the humane qualities of the works of the Luksean

genius! And why should we who procure for our better perception of their

works illuminating biographies of the Old Masters not be permitted the

intellectual stimulation of beholding the Ten American Painters seated

along on a bench at their annual show? The subject of the artists

themselves, however, brings us around to the line between the two kinds

of people having to do with art exhibitions: fine-looking people and

funny-looking people.

Come; let us trot along. Artists themselves are, in a most pronounced

degree, of both kinds. And a very singular thing is this: the funnier an

artist's pictures are, the funnier-looking is the artist that made them.

We'll stop in here, at The Advanced Gallery.

"Ah! How are you?"

That, just going out, is one of the newest groups of painters, known as

the Homeopathics. I used to know him before he went abroad. And the

curious thing is, that at that time he was very good-looking. He was

clean shaven. This strange assortment of whiskers of different fashions

on various parts of his face, imperial, goatee, burnsides, he brought

back with him.

Notice as we step from the car at the gallery floor the numerous others

here who also were at the show we just left. And those who are thus

making the rounds, you perceive, are not of what is called society, but

of the kind known in these circles, doubtless, as interesting. Nearly

everybody in this gallery, in fact, is of the interesting sort. At once

it is apparent that there is nothing of the perfunctory here. Art is

vital. Art is earnest. The atmosphere is tense. The young women are

clad in a manner giving much freedom to the movement of their bodies.

They walk with a stride. Their clothes are not of the mode of the

Avenue, but they have--how shall I say? To twist what Whistler said of

his model: Character, character is what these clothes have. They

suggest, many of these young women, the type that has never got back

from--

"Do you know Chelsea at all?" asks one of them, of an anarchic-looking

young man.

Never got back, as I was about to say, from Chelsea. A couple of other

anarchic-looking young men are viewing a painting in the manner that a

painting, or perhaps this particular painting, is intended to be viewed;

that is by squinting at it first over the tops of their hands and then

through their fingers. They discuss it darkly, in low, passionate tones.

They advance upon it; and, a few inches before it, one, as though holding

a brush in his hand, sweeps eloquently with his arm, following the

contour of the painted figure. Legerdemain kind of thing, painting,

isn't it? Sort of a black art, when you see into the science of it.

Well, I declare! Here's a friend of mine--there, talking with the

Titian-haired lady in the exotic gown. Now, he is coming over to us.

He says he wants us to know Ben-Gunn, who is here, "one of the new

crowd," he says. My friend is very keen on the new crowd; everything

else he declares is "passe." Anyhow, it is a very valuable experience to

talk with an exhibitor at an art exhibition. Your mind is impregnated,

until it swells dizzily in your head. That would be he, the

illiterate-looking little creature with the uncombed and

unsanitary-looking mop.

There! I knew he would say something, something that would never leave

you again the same. "Nothing is shiny in Nature," says Mr. Ben-Gunn as

though rather depressed, surveying a canvas in this respect unhappily

divorced from the truth. "Nature," he adds with Brahminic finality, "is

always dull."

Mr. Ben-Gunn is greeted affectionately by a gentleman you always see at

every art exhibition. This is Mr.--I forget his name--it is French; I

know he writes on Art for _Demos_; a remarkable being who apparently

talks, hears, and sees nothing else but aestheticism. For as there are

types peculiar to art exhibitions, so there are certain individuals

apparently quite peculiar to art exhibitions. Come, let us go on down to

see some Old Masters. Notice there in the corner the foreign-looking

gentleman with the three foreign-looking children. That, the quiet,

cultivated, foreign father and his children, is one of the pleasantest

sights frequently to be seen at art exhibitions. Thus he is to be seen,

easily and intimately discussing the pictures with his attentive

followers.

The great point about the study of art exhibitions from the point of view

of the humanist is the affinity between pictures and people. Here, for

instance, on Madison Square, amid the art heritage of times past, what is

it that at once strikes you? Why, that old paintings evidently are quite

passe to the new crowd. At these exhibitions preliminary to the big

auction sales of venerable masters, and of middle-aged masters, and of

venerable and middle-aged not-quite-masters, there is a very attractive

class of people, a class of funny-looking, fine-looking people, a class,

that is, of rather shabby-looking people who look as if they might be

very rich, of dull-looking people who look as if they might be very

bright. They buy huge catalogues at a dollar or so apiece, which they

consult continually. They arrive early and remain a long time.

The women of this audience frequently are rather dowdy, and shapen in

very individual fashions. The men generally are elderly beings, now and

then reminiscent of the period of Horace Greeley. They are very bald, or

with untrimmed white (not grey) hair, and, sometimes, Uncle-Sam-like

whiskers. They are usually very wrinkled as to trowsers and overcoats.

Here and there among the gentlemen of this company is to be seen one who

looks strikingly like Emile Zola, or the late Mr. Pierpont Morgan

slightly gone to seed. All these charming folk make of looking at

old-fashioned pictures a very busy occupation, and also in effect a

rather mundane occupation, as though they were alertly considering the

possibility of making a selection from among a variety of serviceable

kitchen chairs.

Argumenting the throng are authentic representatives of the world of

fashion; some who appear to be students; the ever present foreigners,

including the frequently present Jap; a number of those enigmatic beings

who continually take notes at art exhibitions; and a respectable quota of

those ladies we always have with us at art exhibitions who in the

presence of pictures and it necessary to say: "Isn't that wonderful,

marvellous tone quality!" Occasionally a decidedly quaint student of Art

strolls in, past the imposing flunky (in finery a bit faded) at the door,

strolls in in the form of a lodger in Madison Square. He looks at the

pictures as if thoughtfully, but without animation.

Well, we have now covered, in an elementary way, about every important

species of art show, except one, the most human perhaps of all, that held

annually on Fifty-seventh Street. We should hardly have time to go up

there to-day. I'll tell you about it. There are several reasons why

this exhibition is the most human perhaps of all. One is that more

people go than to any other. And these people, taken by and large, are

more human, too, than one sees at most art exhibitions, that is more like

just ordinary people. This may be, for one thing, because the pictures

as a rule are more ordinary pictures. And a very human touch, indeed, is

this: when you see the card "Sold" on a painting it is fairly certain to

be one of the most ordinary pictures of the lot.

That reminds one of museums. People who are called in the world to the

curious pursuit of copying pictures in museums, for some reason or other

which I have been unable as yet to work out, apparently always copy the

most bourgeois pictures there. But museums, with their throngs of

subdued holiday makers and their crowds of weary gaping aliens of the

submerged order, museums comprise a separate study.

At any rate, I hope in our stroll I have been able to give you a new

insight into the fascination of the great world of Art.

IV

A ROUNDABOUT PAPER

No reader of _The Spectator_ will have forgotten an article which

appeared there some years ago entitled "As to Bears." Or ever will

forget it until his shall be "the shut lid and the granite lip of him

who has done with sunsets and skating, and has turned away his face

from all manner of Irish," as William Vaughn Moody says. Not only

because it was one of the finest things ever in _The Spectator_, or

anywhere else (after, possibly, that imperishable dissertation of the

great Dean's--or was it Sir William Temple's?--"On a Broomstick"), but

also because it was one pure flower in our day of a kind of art little

cultivated any more. "As to Bears." All, me! How engaging, simple,

gracious, and at ease; what perfection of literary breeding; what an

amused and genial wave of the finger tips; how marked by good-humoured

acuteness, and animated nonchalance; how saturated with a

distinguished, humane tradition of letters--that title!

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