and the Barney and Berry, most of which display considerable
mechanical ingenuity; but, if we were asked to point out the skate we
considered “the best,” we should, without hesitation select either
the Mount Charles or the Barney and Berry. (_Field._)
_Swimming._--This can never be learned from books; it should form a
part of every boy’s school training as much as reading or writing. A
few hints to non-swimmers will be acceptable, and may prove highly
valuable if kept in mind.
The human body weighs 1 lb. in the water, and a chair will carry 2
persons--that is, it will keep the head above water, which is all
that is necessary when it is a question of life or death. One finger
placed upon a stool or chair or a small box or board will easily keep
the head above water, while the two feet and the other hand may be
used as paddles to propel toward the shore.
It is not necessary to know how to swim to be able to keep from
drowning. A little experience of the buoyant power of water, and
faith in it, is all that is required. A small boy who cannot swim a
stroke may propel himself back and forth across a deep, wide pond by
means of a board, that would not sustain 5 lb. weight. Children and
all others should have practice in the sustaining power of water. In
many cases the knowledge that what will sustain a lb. weight is all
that is necessary to keep one’s head above water will serve better in
emergencies than the greatest expertness as a swimmer.
A person unfamiliar with the buoyant power will naturally try to
climb on top of the floating object on which he tries to save
himself. If it is large enough, that is all right. But it is
generally not large enough to keep all entirely above water. This
often happens when pleasure boats capsize. All immediately want to
get out of the water on top of the overturned or half-filled boat,
and all are drowned except those whom the craft will wholly bear up.
If they simply trust the water to sustain 99 per cent. of the weight
of their bodies, and the disabled boat the other 1 per cent., they
all might be saved under most circumstances. An overturned or
half-filled wooden boat will sustain more than it will carry. It
would keep the heads above the water of as many people as could get
their hands on the gunwale. These are simple facts easily learned,
and may every day save life.
_Velocipeding._--The following are a few hints on the prevention and
cure of accidents to tricycles.
A very common accident in tricycles fitted with plain bearings, is
“firing.” The cause is generally want of oil. Friction, which oil
greatly reduces, makes the bearing heat. The heat increases, and,
after running heavily for some little time, the metal expands, so
that a dead-lock is the result, and the part refuses to move. The
best remedy is to get some boiling water and cloths, which, being
soaked, and laid round the outside, will in a short time unfix the
most obstinate bearing. A good oiling should be given. In a new front
steerer, unless the balance gear and driving axle be well oiled
there is a tendency to “fire,” as the fitting is very close. It is
better to over-do the lubrication than otherwise in a new machine,
owing to this same close fitting.
Another accident tricycles are liable to, especially in light ones,
is a bent axle. The cause is either the jar occasioned by riding over
a large stone or brick, a thick dress being violently “wound up” in
the chain, or the fact that the rider is too heavy for the machine.
The fact of the axle being bent is painfully evident in a bad case
from the “wobbling” of the wheel nearest the seat of the damage. A
slight bend may be detected by tilting the machine, and spinning one
wheel with the hand, watching the stationary one. If this oscillates
slightly, there is a bend. If the axle is bent, it can only be
rectified by a skilled mechanic. If an axle bends again it is most
politic to have a new axle fitted, as, for an axle to break at full
speed, is the most dangerous of accidents.
A bent steering rod is a very common occurrence. It often happens
that the adjusting screw at the end of the fork arm works tight, and,
as the screw is only meant to work as a pivot, the tight joint often
“jams,” and, unless slackened, the rod either bends, or, worse still,
breaks. Another cause of the same accident is the steering head
working tightly--deficient lubrication again. A blow on the rod or a
flaw in the steel may cause a like result. A bent steering rod may be
pulled straight without much trouble, a broken one is a more serious
matter. A good plan is to tie the head of an umbrella or walking
stick, if of a suitable shape, to the spanner fitted on the head or
the arm of the steering head, and steer in the Bath-chair fashion.
The screw connected with the steering rod has a trick of working
loose, and, if the lock-nut drops off, the screw may become so loose
as to follow. A hairpin twisted in the hole and round, forms a very
good temporary connection.
A broken crank is a very tiresome and awkward accident. The cause
is either a flaw in the metal or the crank being of insufficient
strength. A smart snap is generally the only warning given, and
the crank “yields” all round as though made of putty. A crank does
not, as a rule, break clean through unless in very faulty iron.
It begins to open and “gape,” and finally breaks. The rider can
do nothing except tie up the fracture (if not occurring at one of
the crank axles) in splints with string, and then inquire for the
nearest station, or trundle the machine to the nearest smith, and
let him weld it together, in the case of the crank being solid.
It often happens that country smiths are only used to rough work.
It must, therefore, be impressed upon them most strenuously, that
rule-of-thumb will not do. The following method of mending a solid
crank has been given by a skilful repairer:--
The broken crank axle, when taken out, should be laid upon a board or
piece of stout paper; then, ends being joined at the fracture, the
smith should carefully mark round with a pencil the exact size, and,
referring to his plan, he will see and mark the amount he may allow
to weld, so that the thickness may be the same, and also the throw,
and that the two projections fitting into the bearings are straight
and level with each other.
Hollow cranks are mended by putting a piece of iron inside, riveting
and brazing.
For a broken axle, the best remedy is to get the machine along as
well as possible on one driving wheel and the steerer, getting it
either carted or carried to the nearest station, from which, if no
qualified repairer is near at hand, it can be sent to the maker to be
fitted with a new one. It may be comforting to know that, unless in a
very light machine, broken axles occur in the proportion of one in a
thousand.
Very unpleasant and very common among lady riders is the accident
called “being wound up” in the driving chain. Insufficient dress
guard is one reason; a full skirt and a gusty day are others. Such
misfortunes are to be prevented by fitting a piece of tanned cord
netting at the side from the framework to the tilt rod stay, if it is
on the same side as the chain, which most of them are. This netting
is laced on with fine waterproof twine, both of which can be obtained
of Unite, in Edgware Road. The cost altogether of a yard of netting
is 2_d._, and whipcord 2_d._ more. The netting is impervious to wet,
can hardly be seen when riding, and is easily attached, making no
noise or rattle. Wire netting rattles dreadfully, and is not nearly
as good, whilst 20 times more expensive.
Most bad accidents are due to recklessness. An opinion is common
amongst people that to ride a tricycle is the simplest thing in the
world, and that, as the machine will stand alone and is tolerably
safe when going slowly, no care is requisite in descending hills. It
is easy to distinguish between an old rider and a novice in going
down a steep hill. The experienced rider, knowing the danger, goes
with feet on the pedals and machine well in hand, both braking and
back-pedalling until the bottom of the hill is well in view, when she
indulges in a “fly,” still keeping under control, although going fast.
The novice, not knowing how dangerous it is to lose control, comes
down erratically--in many cases quite unable to stop--and if she does
manage to, by means of a strong brake, strains the machine, and does
damage that way. Most of the notoriously dangerous hills in England
have danger boards erected by the National Cyclists’ Union--in the
form of small painted iron plates on a post, bearing the following:
“Notice to Cyclists.--This hill is dangerous.” Accidents may be
avoided by “braking” and back-pedalling down the steepest part until
well in sight of the bottom of the hill. If the hand brake of a front
steerer get oily it fails to check the machine properly. The remedy
for this is to dust powdered resin over the drum, which dries up
the oil, but makes the brake almost too powerful; therefore, after
applying resin, it should be used with caution. If a machine from any
cause--such as the brake refusing to act, or being out of order--runs
away down-hill, the only thing is to try to keep clear of ruts, and
avoid swerving by keeping a firm hand on the steering and a cool
head. If presence of mind is once lost, a bad accident is a foregone
conclusion. On the other hand, a cool rider may manage to guide her
machine safely to the bottom.
A common consequence of a run-away is a “buckled wheel.” This looks a
most alarming accident, but can be rectified in a few minutes if the
wheel is well built. The wheel assumes the form of an erratic 8, the
spokes are bulging, loose, and twisted.
To set matters right, the rider should place her knee on the bow of
the hub, and, putting one foot on the rim at the bottom, with the
two hands take hold of the rim furthest from her inwards. Pulling
at these simultaneously, and pressing with the knee the rim with a
snap will resume its round form, and a little adjustment with the
spoke-tightener of such spokes as are loose completes the operation.
Loose tyres can hardly be called an accident in themselves, but
as causes of such they demand attention. If they become loose, a
gas jet should be held under the rim until the cement begins to
bubble and ooze out between the rim and the rubber. The tyre should
be pressed into place and tied firmly with string, and left like
that for 12 hours to set. If no cement remains in the rim, some of
Rockhill’s, or, if nothing better can be obtained, Prout’s elastic
glue, should be melted in an iron spoon and run into the felloes.
Singer’s tyre heater is a good one to use where gas is to be had; but
if in the country, where it is not available, recourse must be had
to a blacksmith, who should be persuaded to heat relays of red-hot
irons, which are held under the rim, as in the case of gas. If a
tyre comes loose suddenly, it may be firmly fastened by tying it to
the iron felloe with thin string at every 2 in. Each tie should be
quite distinct from the others, and the string drawn so tightly as
to sink into the indiarubber tyre. A machine will run many scores of
miles before any of these strings is cut, and then they can be easily
replaced. (F. J. Erskine, _Field_.)
SUPPLEMENTARY LITERATURE.
‘Revised Laws of Lawn Tennis.’ London. 6_d._
M. S. F. and S. F. Monier-Williams: ‘Combined Figure Skating.’
London, 1882. 5_s._
H. E. Vandervell and T. Maxwell-Witham: ‘A System of Figure Skating,
being the theory and practice of the art as developed in England,
with a glance at its origin and history.’ London, 1869. 6_s._
‘Rules of the Game of Hockey.’ London. 6_d._
E. D. Brickwood: ‘Boatracing, or the arts of Rowing and Training.’
London. 5_s._
E. D. Brickwood: ‘The Rowing Almanack and Oarsman’s Companion.’
London. Yearly. 1_s._
W. Wilson: ‘The Swimming Instructor: a treatise on the arts of
Swimming and Diving.’ London. 2_s._ 6_d._
C. Box: ‘The English Game of Cricket: comprising a digest of its
origin, character, history, and progress, together with an exposition
of its laws and language.’ London. 21_s._
H. F. Wilkinson: ‘Modern Athletics.’ London. 1_s._ 6_d._
_THE WORKROOM._
It is impossible within reasonable limits to give a comprehensive
treatise on all the various forms of useful and ornamental
needlework. Moreover, so many changes take place in fashions that
no book can keep pace with them, and the best information is to be
found in the newspapers specially devoted to women’s wants, notably
the _Queen_. To this journal readers are referred for the many
developments of fancy needlework, and to it is due the credit of the
following brief notes on some of the most widely useful methods of
effecting darns, patches, and repairs.
=Patching.=--When a large hole or thin place makes its appearance,
it must be mended by a patch, matching exactly in texture and
pattern. The fresh piece should, if possible, be slightly worn, to
prevent a too great strain on the old, causing the tear to start
afresh. Hence the importance of storing up odds and ends. A careful
housewife has always a good stock in her piece-bags, one of which she
reserves for white, the other for coloured scraps. In repair, and
with a plain material, patching is comparatively an easy matter; but
stripes, checks, and brocades call for some ingenuity in arranging
the design so well that no break is perceived. When the fabric is
cut on the bias, the renovating piece must correspond, though as
a rule patches are either square or rectangular in form. Squaring
corners constitutes the chief difficulty of patching. To manage these
perfectly, they need mitreing or nicking as the case may be, and both
piece and hole have to be sewn even to a thread. Garments, specially
children’s, occasionally require mending at the elbows and under the
arms. To prevent an unsightly repair, it is necessary to rip up the
seams, and, having sewn the patch in neatly on either side of them,
to join the sleeves or armholes again. In articles too shabby to be
worth very careful doing up, the added piece may be slip-stitched on,
provided it follows and never breaks the seam. Judgment is likewise
requisite in the choice of cotton and needles, both as to colour and
size. If too coarse, they draw up the threads, and the cotton if
too fine breaks away from the stuff altogether. The easiest way of
patching is to fix the fresh piece on the right side before removing
the old. There are three different methods of doing this, viz.
counter-hemming, slip-stitching, and sewing and felling. These are by
some considered best for new materials.
_Counter-hemmed Patch._--This could be utilised for almost any
repairing, except that it takes such wide turnings. For its
execution, cut out a piece of material considerably larger than the
hole or worn part, and turn it down all round about ¼ in. Place it
smoothly over the decayed fabric, taking care not to strain too much,
or the stuff underneath will set in rucks. Tack and hem down neatly
on each side, letting the stitches be extremely close at the corners.
Turn the work on the wrong side, cut out the worn part, and make a
hem on the patch itself.
_Slip-stitched Patch._--Proceed as before, but, instead of hemming,
slip-stitch neatly on the right side. The result will be a very tidy
patch, specially suitable for cashmere, silk, merino, and other fine
materials that do not wash. Slip-stitching also answers remarkably
well in home contrivances, such as recovering ball shoes when faded,
and thus utilising scraps of silk, &c., to harmonise with the
toilette.
_Sewn and Felled Patch_ (Fig. 161).--Crease the material on the right
side at about 2 in. beyond the thin place. Cut a suitable patch
straight to a thread, allowing ¼ in. turning all round for the wrong
side. Tack or pin it upon the fabric, and sew regularly; flatten the
seam, and turn the work. Lastly, remove the worn place, and finish
off the patch by a narrow hem on the under surface. If necessary,
make a tiny slit at each corner to keep the fresh piece square. More
experienced menders prefer to cut away the threadbare portion first,
and then let in the patch. This is decidedly the best way, though it
makes the management of the corners more tiresome; however, a little
practice soon overcomes the difficulty.
[Illustration: 161. Sewn and Felled Patch. 162. Sewn Patch.]
_The Sewn Patch_ (Fig. 162).--Remove the worn part entirely, and
nick the corners of the hole for the turnings. Cut out the patch ¼
in. wider all round. Crease the edges of both hole and patch, and
tack them together on the wrong side. Mitre the corners of the piece
to make the repair set well. Sew the four sides neatly and closely,
taking the stitches only one or two threads into the stuff, and
fasten off securely. Fell down the turnings, or only overcast them if
mending a woollen, silken, or extremely stout fabric, such as coutil,
&c. When completed, flatten the seams by the thumb-nail or thimble
or, if necessary, press with a hot iron.
[Illustration: 163. Run Patch.]
_The Run Patch_ (Fig. 163).--Prepare the hole exactly as for the sewn
patch, and crease down a turning as a guide to the stitches. Cut out
a fresh piece to fit, allowing ¼ in. on each side. Fix it in place,
and run carefully on the wrong side, taking care not to pucker in the
least, and letting the stitches be closer together at the corners.
Make the seam neat by felling which will set without mitreing the
corners.
_The Darned Patch_ is frequently employed, when short of scraps, for
mending or strengthening play-room knickerbockers, carpets, or any
rough fabrics. The small bit, or even a piece of another material,
matching as nearly as possible in colour, may be placed under the
hole, then secured, and almost concealed, by rows of neat darning.
_The Seamless Patch_ is very similar to the preceding, but the
darning, instead of covering the weak part, merely surrounds the
edge. The repair often appears in sheets, towels, &c., wherever, from
scarcity or frailty of stuff, a seam is undesirable. Cut a piece of
the same material a little wider than the hole itself; tack it upon
the wrong side of the fabric, letting the edges of piece and hole
overlap. When both have been pared, secure the patch to the stuff on
the right side by darning backwards and forwards about 6 stitches in
height. Leave regular loops, and see that the needle takes in both
upper and under surfaces. The darning crosses at the corners, thereby
giving them additional strength. With the exception of the corners,
neither rows nor stitches should be as close together as in ordinary
mending.
_The Buttonhole Patch_ surpasses the seamless patch in neatness and
flatness, and is reserved for the best linen in cases of accidental
burns, stains, &c., where the damage cannot well be rectified by
darning. The patch is very valuable in stockings, and has recently
suggested an excellent plan for seaming petticoat bodices without the
slightest ridge, thus facilitating the perfect fit of the fashionable
corsages. To make it, cut out the worn part and prepare a piece,
identical in material, and of the exact dimensions of the hole; work
separately the edges of patch and hole in close buttonhole stitch,
with embroidery or flourishing thread. Secure the piece to the fabric
by 2 or 4 pins at the corners, and sew it on by passing the needle
from the loop of each stitch over the opposite one.
_The Flannel Patch._--There are three ways of mending flannel.
In the first fix the piece exactly like the seamless patch, then
herringbone all round on the right and wrong side, letting the upper
row of stitches exactly cover the under one. For the second process,
commence as for the run patch, but, instead of felling, herringbone
the turnings. In the third and lightest method, crease the 4 sides;
manage the corners as already described; set in the patch so that
the former exactly correspond with those of the material; then
herringbone the edges of the renewed part and hole together. Flannel
patches are equally well adapted to the repairing of old quilts.
[Illustration: 164. Flannel Strengthening Patch.]
_Flannel Strengthening Patch_ (Fig. 164).--This repair, as shown by
the illustration, is in frequent requisition for thin places round
the armholes, &c. Cut out a piece of fresh flannel the desired shape,
tack it upon the material, and herringbone all round. The stuff,
being so apt to stretch, needs the hand to be held rather loosely in
working.
=Joining.=--In the alteration as well as the mending of garments,
joining is in constant requisition; hence a neat and imperceptible
mode is invaluable for all kinds of needlework. To this department
belong herringboning, matting seams, net mending, laced and fine
drawing, besides various ways of joining fur, canvas, carpets, and
velvets.
The well-known herringboning is a most useful method of uniting two
hemmed or stitched edges of flannel, list, or woven underclothing.
It also replaces drawn-work insertion, in antimacassars composed of
linen or embroidered strips, as well as in coloured handkerchief
borders, where it unites squares, &c., of lawn or cambric. The lacey
stitch adds to the ornament of the handkerchief, besides suggesting a
pretty way of using up scraps. When not utilised for the join itself,
herringbone stitches are often made on the right side of the material
to conceal the seam. These are sometimes caught down with stitches in
a contrasting tint, and at others worked over a braid.
_Fur Joining._--When a piece of fur has to be divided into narrower
bands, say about 4 in. in width, no scissors must be used. To
separate it, lay the fur lightly on the table, hair downwards, and
with a ruler and red chalk pencil mark out the divisions boldly
on the skin. Take a sharp-pointed penknife, or, still better, a
chisel, and, holding it quite perpendicularly, cut by the red chalk
lines, resting the penknife against the ruler, in case of slips.
Bear slightly when cutting, just enough to let the knife pierce
quite through the pelt without touching the hairs. If this operation
be successfully performed the skin will separate into bands with
smooth, even edges, and the fur remain untouched. Before joining,
two things have to be considered--the right way of the fur, and its
various shadings. Some specimens, such as the skunk, chinchilla, and
squirrel, graduate very much in tint; therefore a little contrivance
is required for the ends to match as nearly as possible, and not to
place a dark hue close to a light one. If this, however, cannot be
avoided, let it be done regularly, in order that the colour shades
off at equal distances and the fur has no patched-up appearance. With
regard to the right way of the fur, the joining offers no difficulty
in straight bands, but calls for some management in corners, &c.,
especially when the pieces in hand, being already worn, have slits
or shabby spots that need replacing. Now the fur is quite ready for
joining. Take a fine needle and smooth cotton or silk, bring the two
edges of the pelt together, and unite them by a flat sewing, pushing
back meanwhile any stray hairs. Do not pull the cotton too tightly,
for fear of spoiling the skin.
_Transferring._--In applying old or new woolwork to satin, cloth,
or velvet, cut about ¼ in. beyond the design, turn under the edge
and tack firmly on the foundation. Conceal the join by a silk cord,
chenille, or rows of gold thread. Appliqué work suggests many good
ways of utilising ancient needlework, that has lasted intact long
after the ground is threadbare. The embroidery is cut out with sharp
scissors, and lightly tacked to a fresh foundation; then secured
with a kind of running, taken invisibly--a buttonhole, cord on net,
herringbone, or any stitch employed in appliqué. Washing fabrics
obviously require the firmest sewing. By such means, the well-known
Swiss muslin embroidery is transposed, and antiquated collars,
handkerchiefs, &c., are adapted to the reigning styles.