the branches of a tree; it does not occupy much space, and any number
of players, if divided into two equal sides, may be pressed into
the service. The apparatus consists of a pole firmly fixed in the
ground, and to which is attached a rope, from whose end a heavy ball
is suspended. Two square slabs of stone are let into the ground at
opposite sides, and at certain distances from the pole. On one of
these stands the player, and on the other are ranged 9 pyramids,
resembling large ninepins. The player takes the ball in his hand,
and, swinging it round the pole, aims at knocking down the ninepins.
He is allowed 6 chances, and then another player takes his turn. This
sounds easy enough, but is far more difficult than would be imagined,
as it requires a good player to swing the ball round the pole before
letting it fly at the men or ninepins. Before commencing, the number
which is to be considered game is agreed upon.
_Lawn Tennis._--Grass Courts.--The following ways of making
lawn-tennis grounds suggest themselves: (_a_) The adaptation of an
existing field or lawn; (_b_) laying down turf to form a lawn; (_c_)
making a lawn by sowing grass seeds.
(_a_) Having determined upon the particular portion of the field,
the first work to be done will be to roll it as soon after rain as
may be, with a heavy smooth agricultural roller. This will generally
level the lawn sufficiently, at least as a first process. This done
2 or 3 times will show if there are any serious uprisings or tumps,
or, on the other hand, hollows or depressions. If the latter, let
the turf be lifted from such sunken parts, which should be filled up
with some good garden soil. This should be rolled down to a smaller
extent by a somewhat heavy garden roller, and when pretty firm the
farm implement may be applied, as it will perhaps smooth down the
hillocks to a level with the mended-up depressions; if not, it may be
that the turf should be lifted beneath these slight hillocks, some of
the earth removed, and the turf pressed into place. In operations of
this kind, wherever the turf has been cut, it is well to sift some
fine mould over the parts before the rolling is performed--at least
for the first time the roller is used. The rolling will soon show
if there be any hard-rooted tussocky kind of grass or other plants
interfering; if so they should be removed, and the same finely-sifted
earth restored, and a very small quantity of fine grass seeds sown on
the bare spots before the roller be used.
(_b_) In laying down turves, care has to be taken to make the base as
level and solid as possible; this is done by filling up and paring
down, while the turves are being got ready from some nice even and
fine grass, cut of uniform size and thickness, laid and stamped down
with the utmost care, and when laid, fine rich mould should be sifted
over the whole, especially over the joints. This, if dry weather
supervenes, should be watered. At first light rollers should be used,
to be succeeded by heavier ones. If well done, it is the quickest and
most efficacious way of planting a lawn.
(_c_) Lawns may be well made by preparing the soil, then levelling,
and sowing with grass seeds, which should be well rolled down. If
only a temporary lawn is required, the best grass to sow will be _Poa
annua_ (annual meadow grass). This should be sown somewhat thickly;
it comes up quickly, bears clipping well, and, if not allowed to
flower, it will become almost a permanent grass. If the lawn, as
is mostly the case, is to be permanent, less of the _Poa_ should
be used; but its quantity should be made up with the following
proportions: _Poa annua_ (annual meadow), 1 lb.; _Poa pratensis_
(smooth meadow), 1 lb.; _Festuca duriuscula_ (hard fescue), 2 lb.;
_Lolium perenne Devoniensis_, (Devon ever), 4 lb. With this mixture
the _Poa annua_ will soon be lost, unless the grasses be seeded,
which would not be good for the lawn; but the other three species,
which grow well together, will soon form a good lawn. Lawns to be
kept even and smooth want to be frequently mown and rolled; but, if
the soil be poor, the constant mowing and removal of the grass will
damage the turf. Injury of this kind may be prevented by a dressing
of superphosphate in autumn, and of soot soon after the breaking up
of frost.
Marking Grass Courts.--The following plan might be very useful to
those who do not wish to disfigure a lawn with whiting, and do not
object to some expense. The webbing ought to be 1½ in. wide, and
if strained tight should be rather bare of the true measurements.
Purchase 75 yd. webbing at 1¾_d._ a yard, being sufficient to go
round a court 78 ft. by 30 ft. and allow for splicing and corners
as follows (the webbing is that used in the manufacture of chairs):
Take 5 rings nearly 3 in. in diameter; curtain rings would answer the
purpose. Sew the first ring to the end of the webbing with saddlers’
needle and twine, lapping the webbing once through the ring. At 78
ft. farther cut the webbing and sew it to one side of a second ring;
on the other side of the same ring again sew on the webbing, and
you have turned the first corner of the court. The next corners, at
distances of 30 ft., 78 ft., and 30 ft. are treated in the same way,
except that the 2 ends should not be joined. Then, for convenience of
painting, wind the webbing perpendicularly over a door or a gate; or
a sort of tambour frame, made of 4 poles tied together to the shape
of an Oxford picture frame, answers the purpose. Paint the webbing
with 2 coats of white paint on one side, and one coat on the other.
It will take a boy 2 long days, and consume about 3 kettles of paint.
Make 4 hoops, about 3 in. high, and 1½ in. wide, of iron wire, nearly
as thick as croquet hoop wire. Peg the webbing down by the corner
rings with these hoops, putting as heavy a strain as possible on each
piece before pegging. The 2 end rings will be pegged by the fourth
hoop. Webbing so treated does not trip the players, only requires the
above 4 hoops or pegs, is too heavy to be moved by wind, does not
twist and kink like tape, and is practically indestructible. A light
drum or winch, 16 in. diameter, 6 in. flange, and 5 in. wide, much
facilitates carriage of the webbing to and from the courts, and keeps
it stored in small compass. (D. W.)
Waterproof Net.--The nets dressed with gutta-percha by the Manchester
Cotton Twine Spinning Company, Corporation Street, Manchester, are
impervious to wet, are not affected by the sun, and may be left out
in all weathers without injury.
Asphalte Courts.--(_a_) The probable cost ought not to exceed 10_l._
if laid down by own workpeople, and less if tar has not to be
purchased. It is pleasanter to play on than real asphalte, having
more elasticity, and the colour is excellent for seeing the balls,
which are not blackened or worn out quickly, as is the case on cinder
courts. Mix thoroughly well sand and gas tar, in the proportions of
1 cub. yd. sand to 24 gal. tar (the more it is mixed the better).
About 8⅓ cub. yd. sand and 200 gal. tar will make a court. This
quantity is to be made into a heap 3 days before laying down. Keep
turning the heap every day, and, immediately before putting down,
add 5 or 6 shovelfuls of dry lime to each cub. yd., and 24 gal. tar.
For foundation, 6 in. of small broken stone or brick rubbish, on
which put some fine gravel, or, better still, coal cinders, to give a
smooth surface; bring this to a level with straight-edge and spirit
level, and press down with a heavy roller. The mixture of sand and
tar should be laid on 1 in. thick, and should be rolled well with a
roller having round edges, sprinkling fine sand on it all the time
to prevent the roller sticking to it. The court should have a slight
fall of 4 in. from centre to ends, and the ground should be well
drained underneath and around the court, which should be laid down
with a large margin, to give plenty of room at the ends and sides.
The best time for making the court would be late in the spring, after
all chance of frost has disappeared, the ground having previously
been prepared by drainage, &c.
(_b_) A mixture of coal tar and cinders makes a rough and dirty
court, and is very liable to work uneven from the nature of the
material. It is necessary to lay these courts on a dry foundation, or
they would be lifted by frost, and the cost is from 20_l._ to 30_l._
Covered balls cannot be used on them, and shoes are soon cut to
pieces. A way might be found to put a finer surface on these courts,
but they can never be made very durable.
(_c_) Real asphalte runs into a very high figure.
Cinder Courts.--(_a_) Plain cinder courts may be laid at very
trifling cost, wherever steam power is used, and engine ashes can be
had gratis, and only cost the carriage. Cinders, however, if not laid
on a dry foundation, after they have been beaten down to a smooth
surface, will puddle up with frost.
(_b_) Pare the turf off, and level the ground; give a sprinkling of
agricultural salt, to kill the grass roots; put in a drain or two of
2 in. pipes, if the subsoil is clayey or retentive. Get 25 cartloads
of factory or other cinders; wheel on (as they are) as many as will
make a strip all across about 9 ft. in width and 2½ in. in thickness;
rake off the very large ones as a foundation for next strip. Roll all
thoroughly well; then put on the 9 ft. strip a layer or covering of
finely riddled cinders, and again well roll, and so on throughout.
Keep the roll going every day for a week, and then you may play every
day in the year except during snow or rain. Use uncovered balls in
wet weather; they bounce sharper, and wash clean. (Geo. H. Wade.)
(_c_) Foundations are first prepared of broken stones as for cement,
into which a few field drain pipes are laid, upon this a covering of
3 in. of coarse cinders; and over this a finishing coat of riddled
ashes mixed with a tenacious clay laid on with plenty of water, and
worked up with a trowel in the same manner as cement. The ashes used
may be furnace ashes from a colliery engine, of a red colour, the
reddest being selected. The result is a fine smooth surface of an
agreeable colour (an important consideration), and easily kept in
order by a small roller. No ordinary shower affects it, and it can be
placed on very soon after heavy and continuous rain. The surface is
sufficiently yielding to be agreeable to the feet, and prevent the
balls from playing too lively.
(_d_) Take 50 chaldrons fine cinders, 2 barrels tar, 1 chaldron
white builder’s sand, and 2 cwt. agricultural salt. Having prepared
a piece of ground by removing the grass roots, and making it quite
level, sprinkle the salt to kill any remaining roots of grass, then
spread the cinders 6 in. deep quite smooth; boil the tar, and pour
all over the surface with a watering pot; then sieve the sand over it
to prevent the roller from sticking. Then roll with a heavy garden
roller with 2 men constantly for 2 days. Occasionally roll for a
month after it is finished, and before it gets firmly set. There
should be no rain during the operation. Around the ashes put small
red gravel, the same depth as the cinders, for a pathway. The court
slopes on one side enough for the rain water to run off; all along
the outer edge of the lower path place a drain pipe 6 in. under the
surface for the water to escape. After the hardest rain, in one hour
the court will be quite playable. (A. H.)
Concrete Courts.--(_a_) First lay out the level with pegs, rather
over 6 in. high, and fill up the floor with broken brick and stone
rubbish to within about 1½ in. of the peg tops. Have a quantity of
river gravel first passed through an ordinary gravel screen, putting
the large aside for the roads. The gravel that passes through the
first screen is again passed through a fine wire lime screen to
separate the sand. The medium gravel thus separated is mixed with 1
part Portland cement to 4 of gravel, and laid over the broken bricks,
bedded well among it, and coming nearly up to the top of the pegs.
This covering is worked as level as possible, and allowed about an
hour to stiffen, after which a fine surface is laid on of 1 part
cement mixed with 2 of the sharp sand and grit that has been screened
from the gravel. This surface is dressed over and finished about an
hour after it is laid on.
(_b_) Take 50 loads broken rubbish (brick or stone), 5½ tons Portland
cement, 11 tons screened gravel, 5½ tons sharp sand. The expense
will depend on the prices at which the rubbish and gravel can be
procured, but the cement will cost 11_l._; and if the rubbish is
put at 3_s._ per load, the gravel at 5_s._ per ton, and the sand at
4_s._, the cost of material will be 22_l._ 7_s._; allowing 5_l._ for
labour, in laying and levelling the court, the whole expense will
amount to about 27_l._ Such a court will be as good and as durable,
for light work, as one costing 100_l._ A court with a good surface
could be made considerably cheaper by using less cement and less
solid foundation; but with a concrete court it is necessary to secure
such dryness and solidity below as will prevent the risk of the floor
being lifted and cracked by frost. (P. S. W.)
(_c_) One authority quotes the price per yard at 2_s._ 9_d._, for a
floor of concrete, 4 in. thick, faced with 2 in. of best cement.
(_d_) A proportion of 1 (by weight) of cement to 2 of clean sharp
sand and 4 of clean gravel, broken stone, &c., makes excellent
concrete. These proportions are 6 to 1.
_Quoits._--Rules of the Game.--(1) The quoits shall be not more than
5¼ lb. in weight, nor more than 8½ in. diameter outside, and 5½ in.
in the inside, nor more than 1½ in. in height, and made of malleable
iron. Quoits faced, or partially faced, with steel shall not in any
case be allowed.
(2) The pins shall be placed in tempered clay ends, confined by a
wooden frame, and shall not project more than 3 in. Pins to be not
less than 3 ft. long, and the exposed point ½ in. in diameter.
(3) The pins shall be placed at such distances apart as may be agreed
upon, and in the centre of the clay. The pins to be readjusted and
the clay made up only at the discretion of the umpire.
(4) No quoit shall count that is a greater distance than 18 in. from
the pin.
(5) When a match is played, one umpire shall be chosen by each side,
and their decision shall be final. Should, however, an umpire have
occasion to appoint another in his place, the last-named in all cases
shall be the umpire for the time being. No person except the umpires
shall interfere, but each captain may instruct his men if requested.
(6) A player in delivering his quoit shall stand with his foot
opposite the pin, but not more than 2 ft. therefrom, and must deliver
his quoit before the second step is completed. Should he not do so,
the quoit pitched shall be called a “no quoit,” and treated the same
as a “no quoit,” as per Rule 11.
(7) The 2 quoits nearest the pin shall count one each, if belonging
to the same side. If not, then only the nearest quoit counts one. The
quoit touching the top of the pin to count before a side-toucher.
(8) When the inside of a quoit, taken perpendicularly from the pin
upwards, shall surround the top of the pin, it shall be called a
ringer, and count 2. If a player has 2 quoits in this position, they
shall count 2 each, unless his opponent has one dividing them, then
the last ringer only shall count.
(9) No quoit shall count as a ringer when a quoit under it covers, in
a perpendicular direction, any part of the top of the pin.
(10) If a quoit when pitched shall hit the frame surrounding the clay
in alighting, or shall alight outside the frame, it shall be called
a “no quoit,” and shall not count or hinder any other quoit from
counting, and shall at once be removed.
(11) No clay shall be removed in measuring the distance of a quoit
from the pin, neither shall any quoit be removed to facilitate the
measurements.
(12) When 2 quoits belonging to opposite parties shall rest at equal
distances from the pin, the leading player shall retain his lead.
(13) Any player claiming a point or points after pitching one quoit
shall not be at liberty to go back and play his second quoit.
(14) A player in any match must have been a member of the club he
plays with for at least one calendar month previous to that time.
Making a Ground.--(_a_) Procure a large treacle or oil cask, cut the
ends off (leaving them about 5 in. deep inside); take care that there
are 2 iron hoops on each end; fix an iron pin (¾ in.) firmly in the
centre of each, to stand about 7 in. above the edges of the tub, then
fill it with stiff clay, raising it from the sides towards the top of
the iron pin, leaving so much bare as shall be sufficient for a mark;
have a waller’s trowel to smooth the surface when required. These can
be placed in any convenient position for quoiting into, and may be
removed when not required. Have a frame made of lightwood or iron,
cone-shaped, and covered with waterproof canvas, to cover the tubs
when not in use.
(_b_) If the land lies high and dry, and the soil is clay, which
during hot weather becomes very hard, dig 2 pits the size required,
and about 2 ft. deep. Asphalte the bottom and fill in with the clay.
_Racquets._--Making a Racquet Court.--A court should be about 65 ft.
by 30 ft. front wall 30 ft. high; back wall 12 ft. high; floor made
of asphalte, and walls plastered very smoothly. The expense varies
according to size, and cost of labour and materials. It must be
lighted by skylights. The area of a double court should be 80 ft. by
40 ft.; front wall 30 ft. high, back wall 12 ft.; side walls sloping
towards back wall, with a very slight decline of floor down towards
the back wall.
[Illustration: 160. Sail Skating.]
_Sail Skating._--When the ports of the Baltic are closed by ice
during winter, the pilots and sailors of Arnager Isle, at Copenhagen,
occupy their leisure hours with the exercise of skating by sail.
This sport requires much skill and quite a long apprenticeship; but,
after a person has become dexterous at it, it offers a very peculiar
charm, and, when a swift wind causes him to glide over the surface
of the ice, he feels himself lifted, as it were, and experiences a
sensation analogous to that of flight. Fig. 160_a_ shows a diagram
of the apparatus, as employed by the Danish skaters. The sail, which
is formed of a light but strong fabric (such as Chinese pongee silk)
is stretched over a bamboo frame whose dimensions are given in the
cut. The centre crosspiece, which must be placed at the level of the
shoulders, is fastened to the skater’s body by bands that cross the
breast and afterwards pass around the waist, so that they may be
tied together in front. Large crosspieces of wood, attached to the
lower corners of the system, are held in the skater’s hands, so that
he may trim the sail in one direction or another. When the skater
wishes to be carried along by the wind, he must stand very erect,
without stiffening his body too much, and bend backward in proportion
as the wind blows fresher. Confidence is acquired by practice. Fig.
_b_ gives the position of the skater going with the wind and under
full sail. When the wind is too violent, the topsail may be readily
lowered (Fig. _c_), so as to thus moderate the impulsion derived from
the moving air. By inclining the sail in one direction or the other,
the skater may tack to the larboard or starboard (Figs. _d_ and _f_).
Finally, when it is desired to move against the wind, by skating in
the usual way, the body is bent forward in such a way that the sail
lies horizontally, and no longer offers a purchase to the aerial
current (Fig. _e_). The skater can thus return to his starting point,
and from thence be driven forward again by the wind.
This exercise is a very agreeable one, and not very dangerous; and
the falls that a person gets in beginning are not to be dreaded,
because they almost always occur backward. The degree of speed
that can be attained by a practised skater is considerable. When
the skater has done with his apparatus, he detaches it from his
shoulders, winds the sails around the bamboo sticks, which may be
separated from them, and thus has an object that is no more trouble
to carry than an umbrella would be. When the winters are severe, it
is not unusual to meet upon the ice numerous groups of skaters by
sail who are endeavouring to excel each other in speed. Young people
are often seen, too, setting out on an expedition over the frozen sea
between Denmark and Sweden, and traversing the entire Sound. These
latter use the sail when the wind is favourable, but fold up the
apparatus when the contrary is the case, and make use of their skates
in the ordinary way. Danish hunters, likewise, often have recourse to
skating by sail in order to rapidly reach points where wild ducks and
geese have been observed.
_Skating._--The art of skating is far too intricate to admit of being
dealt with in a chapter, but the following notes on skates will
interest all skaters.
To a man who simply makes skating an excuse for an outing and a
jollification, the Acme is the best skate, because it is easily
carried, easily put on and off, and with it he is enabled to do
the little skating he is capable of as well as if he had the most
expensive and elaborate pair.
To the enthusiast who looks on figure skating as a science to be
studied, it is essential that he should have what he conceives to be
the best skates that can be made.
Assuming, then, that the skater will not object to carrying a bag
large enough to hold a pair of boots and skates, we think that the
“Mount Charles” is the best, as it is the simplest, lightest, and
neatest. It consists of a skate blade attached by means of plates
screwed to the sole of the boot. The front plate is under the ball of
the foot, and the heel plate at the heel, and if a very thick-soled
boot be used, the absence of support between the two points of
attachment, is not practically felt. But a heavy boot is not only
unsightly, but fatiguing. If a thinner-soled boot be used, the heat
of the foot softens the leather of the sole, which, bending, no
longer supports the instep, and fatigue and cramp ensue. Gillett and
Co., of Sheffield, hit on a plan which obviates the necessity of a
thick and heavy boot, by making the sole of wood instead of leather.
A Mount Charles skate with Dowler blades, fitted to wooden-soled
boots or clogs, is perhaps the most comfortable, effective, and neat
skate produced.
Next in merit to the Mount Charles come the “Barney and Berry.” These
also are skeleton skates, being fastened to the boot, either with a
T plate for the heel and movable clamps for the toe (the clamps
worked by a key), or having movable clamps at both heel and toe. The
mechanical arrangement of the Barney and Berry is a great advance on
the Acme; but, as the toe clamps catch the sides of the welt, and
do not lap over it as in the old club skate with toe clamps, it is
necessary to screw the toe clamps somewhat tightly, and this has a
tendency to curl up the soles of the boots, especially if the sole be
rather thin, or when it gets soft from the heat of the foot or from
skating on wet ice.
Skaters, as a rule, use the boots they skate in simply as skating
boots, and never attempt to walk any distance in them; a rigid sole
of wood would therefore be no disadvantage. If a piece of oak board
the length of the boot be shaped so as to touch the footstock of
the Barney and Berry all along the iron plate, which extends from
the instep to the toe, and the board be attached to a thin pair
of well-fitting laced-up boots, all the discomforts of the clamps
pinching the sole will be obviated, and the heavy thick boot may of
course be dispensed with. There is no doubt that a rigid-soled boot
is a distinct advantage, whether the Mount Charles or the Barney and
Berry skate be used.
It sometimes happens that the skater has to change his boots
some little distance from the ice and walk down in his skates--a
proceeding that in nowise improves them; and under these
circumstances the Barney and Berry has a decided advantage over the
Mount Charles, as the skater can put on his boots and walk down in
them to the ice, and then adjust his skates.
It is unnecessary to go into the merits of the “Dowler” blade, as its
advantages over the straight-sided blade were duly chronicled in _The
Field_ of Oct. 11, 1879. Since that time the new form of skate blade
has been gradually growing in favour. There was some difficulty at
first in getting these blades properly made; but Hill and Son, of the
Haymarket, and Walter Thornhill and Co., of New Bond Street, turn out
Dowler blades in a way that leaves nothing to be desired.