throws it overboard, as no washing can be done. Take to wear in
Kingston nothing but prints and muslins, and a grey cashmere would be
very useful. For large dinners have a couple of pretty satin dresses
made, with lace sleeves; and for small dinners some cream muslins,
trimmed with lace. As there are a good many balls, 3 dresses would
be necessary. One bonnet would be sufficient, but you would want
several hats (as light as possible). A white cashmere for tennis is
always serviceable, and a habit of light material (in dark green or
blue) indispensable. Stockings should be all thin and cool, and all
underclothes made of linen or the finest calico. Gloves are easily
spotted, so only take out gants de Suede and silk ones. The heat of
Kingston during the day is very great, but the evenings are cool and
enjoyable; society good (nearly all military and naval) and several
old Jamaica families.
_Fancy Dress._--The following selection of fancy dresses comprises
most of the picturesque national costumes of Europe and the East,
adapted for wear at Fancy Dress Balls, &c. There is a striking and
distinctive character about the majority of these which places them
far above the ordinary type of fancy dress, and it is a great pity
they are not more generally adopted.
No. 1. Saxon Bride and Bridegroom of Transylvania.
No. 2. An Austrian woman.
Nos. 3 and 4. Dutch Ladies of the 17th century.
No. 5. Fisherwoman of the Zuider-zee. The petticoat or skirt is
made of coarse brown or dark blue frieze, and over it is worn an
apron, sometimes red, sometimes green, with a bib of silk or linen,
embroidered or interwoven with a large flower pattern, and pinned to
the front of a sleeveless jacket, made of the same material as the
petticoat, and fastened at the back with hooks and eyes. The skirt
is of striped calico, visible in our illustration round the neck
and from the shoulders to the elbows, from where to the wrist it is
covered with a sort of over-sleeve of frieze. A close-fitting cap
of coloured satin or linen encases the hair, as loose tresses are
not allowed to float in the wind. This cap is ornamented over the
forehead with a piece of gold or silver tinsel cloth.
No. 6. A Bulgarian woman.
No. 7. An Italian girl. The Italian woman chooses white for the
principal colour of her dress, knowing from long experience that
this is the most suitable colour for lessening the effects of the
sun. For the same reason, she has been taught from early youth how
to compose fanciful and becoming headdresses from linen scarves. An
apron striped in many colours, and a bright border to her skirt,
serve the purpose of producing the gay contrast she likes. Her sister
in the East, where the climate is less genial and the temperature
moves within extremes, needs heavier materials for her costume, and
of darker shades, to bring it into accordance with the surroundings.
To break the sombre tints, she employs embroidered stripes and
squares on her silk bodices and linen under-skirts, as well as on
her apron and over-skirt, both made of heavy woollen materials. A
bright-coloured ribbon, a flower, or an adroitly draped scarf form
her headdress. The effect south and east is the same--picturesqueness
and absence of conventionality, more or less the two chief
attractions of all national costumes.
[Illustration: 1. 2. 3. 4.
_W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND, W.C._]
[Illustration: 5. 6. 7. 8.
_W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND, W.C._]
No. 8. A Jewish Lady, of Tetuawn. The dress is a fanciful combination
of velvet, gold braid, and embroidery, with the gauze-like muslin of
the Orient, rich in colours, and adorned with a gorgeous silk sash
round the waist.
No. 9. Peasant maiden, of Donaueschingen, Black Forest. The
bodice is made of black silk, festooned across the chest by blue
or violet lace. The little cap, sitting close to the head, has a
crescent-shaped opening at the back, through which the long tresses
of hair escape. Two long ends of black ribbon fastened together
complete the headdress. Short full snow-white chemise sleeves leave
the arm bare in summer time. The petticoat is black and the stockings
red.
No. 10. A Servian peasant woman.
No. 11. A Bulgarian peasant woman. The unmarried girls ornament
their hair with wreaths of flowers, and on festive occasions wear
rows of gold coins round their necks. As protection against the
sun, the younger women wear on the head a white embroidered scarf,
picturesquely draped. Married women deck themselves with tawdry bead
jewellery, and wear a belt with large copper gilt buckles round their
waist.
No. 12. A Peasant maiden of the Steinlach Valley. On the head is set
a flat black cap, decked with floating ribbons. The dress consists of
a stuff petticoat and scarlet bodice, the petticoat being made out
of light or dark blue cloth, generally bordered with green bands,
relieved by gold edging. The bodice is embroidered with gold down the
back, and open in front over a handkerchief covering the bosom. The
bodice is kept in place by cords, ribbons, or silver chains laced
backwards and forwards. A white apron (the matrons wear black), made
of fine linen, embroidered at the bottom, completes the dress. A
garnet necklace encircles the throat. The full petticoat reaches a
little below the knee, showing the feet in buckled shoes. On Sundays
a girdle of silk or velvet embellished with metal bosses is worn
round the waist.
No. 13. Wallachian girl. The costume consists of a long linen
chemise, elaborately embroidered on the shoulders and sleeves with
black, red, or blue wools, lace ruffles hanging from the wrists.
Round the waist the chemise is held together by a bright coloured
scarf, to which a front and a back apron, of a striped woollen
material, are attached, leaving the chemise visible at both sides.
The ordinary headdress is a white or red handkerchief thrown over the
hair and tied in a knot under the chin; but on Sundays a smart little
cap, embroidered with gold or silver tinsel, covers, fez-like, the
beautiful hair, which is carefully parted in the middle and adorned
with bunches of flowers, gold-headed hairpins, and strings of coin
jewellery. A necklace of coins is an essential feature.
No. 14. Chinaman. Flowered silk robe; blue jacket; red hat.
No. 15. Dame Trot. Short quilted skirt; tunic and bodice red, with
laced stomacher; tall black hat.
No. 16. Little Grannies. Grey cashmere dresses; white caps.
No. 17. Russian Peasant. White dress trimmed with red embroidered
bands and Russian lace; long white embroidered apron; beads round
neck; gold embroidered Kroshnick headdress of black velvet.
No. 18. Tyrolean peasant. Full black knee breeches; grey silk
stockings; red blouse, with bretelles embroidered in yellow and gold;
small bouquet at the waist; white Surah shirt, with wide sleeves;
black silk necktie; black felt hat, with black and flame-coloured
feathers.
No. 19. Normandy peasant. Short red skirt, striped with black; white
mousseline de laine tunic, spotted with blue; low pointed bodice,
laced with silver; muslin fichu, trimmed with lace; sleeves to match
fichu; white muslin headdress, trimmed with lace.
No. 20. Polish costume. Pink satin dress, trimmed with white fur; the
plastron is crossed with white brandebourgs, which are continued the
entire length; white silk stockings; pink satin shoes.
[Illustration: 9. 10. 11. 12. 13.
_W. J. WELCH. 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND._]
[Illustration: 14. 15. 16. 17.
_W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR. 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND._]
[Illustration: 18. 19. 20. 21. 22.
_W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR. 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND._]
No. 21. Normandy youth. Dark-blue satin knee breeches; silk stockings
of the same colour, with red garters; white lawn skirt, with full
sleeves; blue silk necktie; red satin coat opening over the skirt,
and ornamented with small red brandebourgs; silk cap and cravat.
No. 22. Neapolitan girl. Pink silk skirt, with a claret velvet hem;
white silk apron, striped with many colours; claret velvet bodice,
with pink revers opening over a waistcoat to match, crossed with gold
bands; long sleeves; claret revers, with gold braid; coral necklace;
headdress to match the apron, and fastened with gold pins; tambourine
in the right hand.
No. 23. Fop, reign of Henry VI. Long robe of blue cloth, with long
hanging sleeves, festooned in shape of leaves; double band and pouch
of yellow cloth; large hat of fur, trimmed with a fan of yellow
cloth; grey worsted stockings. (Wingfield.)
No. 24. Lady, reign of Henry VI. Particoloured costume of pink and
white Italian satin sheeting, trimmed with deep border of ermine on
skirt; headdress of same material, with long flowing veil of Indian
muslin. (Wingfield.)
No. 25. Page, reign of Charles II. Vest of myrtle-green velvet;
blouse bodice, and sleeves in cambric; fringes of gold ribbon loops;
skirt in amber silk; lace cravat bow; embroidered satin shoulder
sash; green hat with amber plumes.
No. 26. Page, reign of Henry IV. Doublet of black satin trimmed with
gold galloon; trunks of figured cherry-coloured silk; black velvet
cloak with gold embroidery; black silk tights; velvet cap with
turreted brim, and brooch of paste diamonds.
No. 27. Judge. Loose gown in black reps or Ottoman silk; cambric
band, and wig. Alpaca may be substituted, if preferred, for the gown;
high black cap.
No. 28. Friesland girl. The bust is encased in two bodices, one
of cloth with sleeves of gaily coloured silk, and over it another
tightly laced with a red or yellow silk ribbon of interminable
length. The lacing tag, made of gold or silver, is worn as an
ornament on the left side of the bust by girls, and on the right side
by married women. A bright coloured silk wrapper covers the upper
part of the body, and ends round the throat in a narrow black braid
on which is a small red strip, placed on the left by girls and on
the right by married women. For outdoor toilet a short jacket with
sleeves, and wide open in front, is worn over the two bodices. This
jacket is of printed calico for ordinary wear, but embroidered with
gold and silver for festive occasions. The most peculiar feature
of the costume is the headdress, made of striped calico or fine
linen, and supported in its helmet-like shape by starch alone. Two
petticoats are worn, one of crimson cloth, with a broad border of
black velvet, reaches to the ankles, just showing the broad-toed
velvet slippers; the other, of black woollen material, encircles
the waist, in numberless plaits, and leaves the velvet border of
the first one free. A silk apron completes the Sunday attire. A
chatelaine is usually added.
No. 29. Dutch girl, from the Island of Mark.
No. 30. Turkish girl.
No. 31. A woman of Albania.
No. 32. A woman of North Holland.
No. 33. Jane Seymour coif.
No. 34. Charity girl. Black stuff gown; white linen cap; apron; red
badge on left side of bodice.
No. 35. Moorish girl. Black velvet bodice and skirt, trimmed with
white galloon; apron in muslin, enriched with gold thread and
variegated silks; girdle of geranium-red cord with tassels; red satin
under sleeves; rows of large beads fall on the muslin chemisette; cap
and veil in toile Colbert, embroidered and also edged by a fringe of
gold beads.
No. 36. Lady of Tangiers.
No. 37. Servian youth. Green woollen trousers, with bands and golden
spangles; blue velvet jacket, trimmed with golden embroidery and
grelots; vest in red and blue striped material bound by embroidery;
red cashmere scarf, with revolvers passed through; red fez.
[Illustration: 23. 24. 25. 26. 27.
_W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR. 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND._]
[Illustration: 28. 29. 30. 31. 32.
_W. J. WELCH, PHOTO GRAVEUR. 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND._]
[Illustration: 33. 34. 35. 36. 37.
_W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR. 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND. W.C._]
No. 38. Tellemarken, Norway.
No. 39. Mecklenburg.
Nos. 40, 41. Brittany.
No. 42. Welsh. Among the different costumes of Wales, there are
few more picturesque and elegant than that of Gwent and Morganwg,
which ancient district includes the present counties of Monmouth and
Glamorgan; and, although now rarely seen, it is by no means extinct.
The hat is beaver, which, although so called, was formerly made of
the skin of the hare. The brim is sufficiently wide to cast a shade
over the eyes and brow, which artists well know is so peculiarly
becoming to the face; and from the hat being set on the head to
incline downward (higher behind than before), this artistic effect
is still more striking. The genuine Welsh cap has a border either of
muslin, with narrow edging of lace, or for special dress, the whole
border of good thread lace; and without a personal trial few could
believe how the combination of such a hat and cap beautifies plain
women, and still further improves the beautiful. The handkerchief
is worn with the point behind to the waist, which is of natural and
moderate length. The handkerchiefs are, for general use, blue and
white, or pink and white, cross-barred, with a border, are worn
double, and tightly pinned across the chest; for special occasions
they are often scarlet and yellow, or blue and white. The gown has
sleeves to the elbow, and for elderly persons often turns the elbow.
The bodice is tight and low, and fastens in front, being pinned
across under the handkerchief, the gown being open before. The skirt
(if skirt it can be called) does not extend farther than an inch or
two beyond the hips; it is very full behind, and has loops along the
edge through which a tape is run, which draws it together, and is
tied to another loop which is fixed at the back, in the centre of
the waist in the inside. This part of the gown is not much longer
than the petticoat, so that when it is drawn up only an inch of the
petticoat is seen below, and sometimes it is even with the petticoat.
The apron is of black and white or blue and white check--the Welsh
national checks being totally different from the Scotch plaids, the
only similarity consisting in both having cross bars. The strings
of the apron are often passed through a loop which is attached
underneath the point of the handkerchief, crossed behind and tied
before, not being too wide to allow the coloured petticoat to be seen
at the sides. The petticoat is moderately full, and short enough to
show the ankles. The shoes, black leather with strong soles, used to
be invariably set off with large buckles, which nearly covered the
front of the instep; the shoes being high and fastened by the tongue
of the buckle, but those worn without buckles had small leather ears
on each side, with a hole in each, which tied over the instep. In
cold weather, or when required, long sleeves of the same material
as the gown, or coloured printed calico, or of knitted black wool,
are added, or long-armed black mittens; and a cloak with a hood is
thrown on. In the present instance the gown is orange and black, the
petticoat violet and black. The present costume admits of many other
varieties of ancient national Welsh patterns, both in colour and
design, still made in the same district.
No. 43. Mecklenburg.
No. 44. Norway, Sætersdal. The men wear striped trousers, reaching
almost to the throat, and showing a white shirt under the arms. A
sort of very short jacket covers the shoulders, and closes across
the upper part of the chest. To the uninitiated, it appears quite a
riddle how they put this peculiar garment on. The jacket worn by the
women is of equally curious cut. It opens horizontally across the
bust to show a linen bodice, which again appears as a large stand-up
collar on the throat. The hair is gathered into a net decorated
with ribbons, which entirely hides it, and falls to the shoulders.
With their short petticoats and jackets, braided with galloons and
studded with silver buttons, a bright-coloured wrapper fastened to
one shoulder, and draped round the waist, a Sætersdal girl presents a
picturesque appearance.
[Illustration: 38. 39. 40. 41. 42. 43. 44.
_W. J. WELCH. 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND. PHOTO GRAVEUR._]
[Illustration: 45. 46. 47. 48. 49.
_W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR. WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND._]
No. 45. French Lady, Reign of Henry I.
No. 46. Lady, Reign of James I.
No. 47. Italian Gentleman, XVI. Century.
No. 48. Maidservant, Reign of Henry VI. Costume in two shades of grey
merino; large apron, handkerchief, and headdress with long flowing
veil in fine white nainsook. (Wingfield.)
No. 49. Gentleman, Reign of Henry VI. Shirt of printed velvet, with
tabbard of white Italian satin sheeting, bordered with black fur;
worsted tights; hat of printed velvet, with long drapery of soft
silk; bag pouch. (Wingfield.)
No. 50. Lady, from Saloniki, Macedonia.
No. 51. Girl from Ploaré, Brittany. The petticoat or skirt is
generally of white flannel, bordered with a scarlet band above the
hem, made very full and short to show the buckles on the shoes. The
body or jacket consists of scarlet, blue, violet, or red cloth, cut
tight to the shape, open in front, the sleeves long, turned up at
the wrist with a deep cuff, and encircled with a sort of arm-band
above the elbows. The facings of the bodice, cuffs, and arm-hands are
trimmed with a braiding composed of black velvet ribbons embroidered
with coloured worsteds. The apron is either a deep mulberry or orange
colour, and fastened with an ornamental sash tied in a bow at the
side, with a separate pocket for the knitting ball. The chemise,
fastened in front with a brooch made of coloured bugles and glass
beads, terminates in a kind of plaited ruff, and a small ebony
crucifix is suspended by a velvet band from the neck. The headdresses
vary in shape. The women of Bignan wear close fitting caps of white
linen, and cover them with a sort of conical flap-cap, made of a
coarse starched cloth, like brown holland, which serves the purpose
of a bonnet.
No. 52. Flemish costume at the time of Rubens.
No. 53. Caucasian Girl. The costume consists of a caftan made of
bright coloured silk or satin, buttoned in front, and reaching
to the knees, with a belt, richly embroidered in gold and silver
round the waist. In winter an overcoat of heavier material, without
sleeves or collar, open in front and falling down to the ankles, is
worn over the caftan. Very picturesque is the headdress or cap of
conical shape, gorgeously embroidered with gold and silver tinsel.
A long white veil descends from the point of the cap nearly down to
the heels. This veil is likewise worn without the cap, fastened to
a kind of diadem in the forehead. From underneath the cap or veil
issue long plaited tresses of black hair studded with coin jewellery.
Elegant bottines of morocco leather, tightly fitting to the leg, like
stockings, and dainty slippers, complete the outfit.
No. 54. Woman of Bethlehem. A dark blue dress contrasts well with
the scarlet tunic worn over it in graceful folds, and with the head
covering of spotless linen, which frames in the face, just leaving
room for the display of Oriental coin jewellery on the forehead and
round the neck.
No. 55. Lady of Eleusis, Greece. A maize-coloured silk veil,
picturesquely draped, covers head and shoulders, just to show two
strings of gold coins on the lovely forehead of the oval face. A
long white robe, girded round the waist with an embroidered belt
or sash, envelopes the figure like the ancient chiton. The waist
is covered with chains of coin jewellery, and an apron of violet
silk, striped in two tints, is attached to the belt. But the great
_pièce de résistance_ of this becoming costume is a gorgeously
ornamented jacket, likewise of white material, with semi-tight
sleeves, embroidered, as our illustration indicates, in fanciful
patterns, with dark red or black silk interspersed with gold and
silver threads. Similar costumes to that of the women of Eleusis,
and only slightly differing in cut and colours, are worn in all
the northern provinces of the kingdom. In Athens a bright red
scarf girds the waist, and silk of the same colour is used for the
embroideries on jacket and petticoat. In Bœotia a green veil is worn,
and the ornamental stitchery executed in a variety of colours, red
prevailing.
[Illustration: 50. 51. 52. 53. 54.
_W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR. 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND. W.C._]
[Illustration: 55. 56. 57. 58. 59.
_W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR. WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND. W.C._]
No. 56. Spanish Girl. The short petticoat is generally of bright
yellow, rose coloured, or green silk, trimmed either with bands
of black velvet or with a deep flounce of black blonde. The
tight-fitting jacket is made of black velvet, trimmed with gold or
silver lace, and buttons to match. The material for the apron and for
the neckerchief consists of muslin with a border of white blonde. The
hair forms a plaited chignon on the back of the head, and is adorned
with the high Spanish comb and with hair pins, with tops of gold or
silver filigree.
No. 57. Spanish Toreador. Royal blue plush or velvet jacket and
trousers, richly embroidered in silver and ornamented with silver
fringe. Red silk sash. Red cloak and pink stockings. Blue plush cap.
Heavy silver epaulettes and embroidered shirt.
No. 58. Modern Greek. In the picturesque national costume worn in
modern Greece hardly any trace can be found of the ancient dress.
The richly embroidered cloth jacket, worn over skirt and bodice of
ordinary cut, cannot be compared with the ancient chitonion, although
it serves the same purpose. For fancy balls this costume is most
becoming, if the proper combination of colours, quite optional, even
in Greece, is selected.
No. 59. French Farmer’s Wife, time of Henri III. The close-fitting
pointed bodice, of a red material, is laced in front over a band of
green silk; the square habit shirt is of fine linen, terminate in
a lace-edged lawn ruff corresponding in colour with the long white
sleeves; and the ample apron covers the front of a dark-coloured
petticoat. The tablier headdress, worn over the hair combed back, is
made of a double piece of black satin, stiffened by a stout lining.
SUPPLEMENTARY LITERATURE.
Bernard Roth: ‘Dress: its Sanitary Aspects, a paper read before the
Brighton Social Union; with additions and 8 full-page illustrations.’
London. 1880. 2_s._
T. Frederick Pearse: ‘Modern Dress and Clothing in its relation to
Health and Disease.’ London. 1882. 2_s._
Henry Carr: ‘Poisons in Domestic Fabrics.’ London. 1880. 6_d._
Ardern Holt: ‘Fancy Dresses described; or what to wear at Fancy
Balls.’ London. 1882. 5_s._
_THE NURSERY._