generally makes women past 30 look younger to dress thus; but much
depends on the colours used. It is easy to lay down rules of colour
for decided brunettes or decided blondes, but much more difficult
to fix rules for those who belong to neither class, and who compose
the majority. It used to be an old rule with portrait painters that
the colour of a woman’s eyes ought to be repeated in some part of
her head-dress. It is a much safer rule to repeat the colour of the
hair in the dress. This is why fur is so often more becoming than
anything else, it is often an exact colour of the hair. The only case
in which matching the hair would not be suitable, is when the hair
is unmistakably red. Then nothing but the quietest colours should
be worn, with a good deal of white at the neck. Very dark shades
of red and brown go best with it, but they must be chosen with the
greatest discrimination. It is a safe axiom to lay down that all very
bright colours should be kept away from the face; only the finest
complexions can stand them in close proximity to the skin. The idea
that pink is becoming to dark people is a mistake: only a very fair
blonde can bear it. Maize is also most becoming to a fair skin,
though it is also suitable, occasionally, to dark-haired people.
Half-tints are the safest wear in the long run, and dark-coloured
plushes, velvets, and satins, with their lovely reflection, are
becoming to all. A slight knowledge of what are called “complimentary
colours” in optics is useful, for it teaches the effect of certain
colours on the skin. Thus bright blue makes the skin look yellow;
mauve makes it look orange-tinted; bright yellow gives it an
ashen-blue look; bright vermilion-red makes the skin look green.
Thus it will be seen that half-tints will not be so mischievous in
their effects. Many elderly ladies have a preference for violet or
purple. Nothing could be more unfortunate. As people get on in life,
the skin assumes quite enough of a yellow tint, without adding to it
by wearing its complimentary colour--purple. Transparent materials,
such as lace or tulle, are the most becoming settings to old faces.
For younger people, harmony in colour is everything. Brown may have
points of yellow or paler brown; dark red, a carefully selected pink.
If grey is worn, a little pale blue may be worn in the bonnet. Then
gold ornaments look best with brown and red, silver ornaments with
grey and blue. In combining materials for a dress, it will be found
that too soft or too stiff materials are more difficult to drape
gracefully than one of each kind. Silk and cashmere make a very good
combination, and a cheap and effective imitation of these can be made
in merino and good alpaca. Short people should have outdoor mantle
and dress of the same colour, as a contrast in these takes away from
their height. But they may wear with great advantage a pelerine,
or long mantle, which comes to within 2 in. of the bottom of the
skirt; in that case the dress does not much matter. The fashion of
tight sleeves and cuffs is very unbecoming to the hands unless they
are small. The cuff ought to measure the same as the hand across
the knuckles; dressmakers generally only measure the wrist, which
is quite a mistake, as it is often out of proportion to the hand. A
frill at the wrist is always becoming to the hand, but not always
becoming at the throat. Short necked, plump-faced people do not look
well in frills round the throat. A piece of lace laid on flat is
better for them. Thin, long-necked people, on the contrary, ought
invariably to wear frills at neck and wrist. Belts are unbecoming
to all waists over 25 in. Tippets and fur collarettes should not be
worn by high-shouldered people. The great secret of dressing well
is to know what to avoid. To know where advantage can be taken of
a good point is well, but to know how to hide a bad one is better.
Frequently the best-dressed women we see are those whose own deft
fingers have put the finishing touches to their toilettes.
_Clothes for Foreign Boarding School._--(_a_) At Lausanne. Take
2 warm winter dresses (one for school, and one for church, &c.),
2 evening dresses, one light cashmere or beige dress, and 4 or 5
washing dresses. Two jackets (one for winter, and one for summer),
a cloak or ulster, and a mackintosh. Much the same underclothing
as one would take to an English school, with plenty of warm vests,
&c., as the winter in Lausanne is colder than in England. Take a
warm travelling rug, as sometimes in winter the “duvets” on the bed
are not sufficient covering, and the rug will be very acceptable.
July and August are the hottest months, but most people go to the
mountains then. Take with you all in the way of clothes that you
will require for the year, as dresses, hats, &c., are costly, and
there is scarcely any choice there. Pack the things in 2 small basket
trunks, rather than one large. Put such things as you will require
immediately into one, and taking that with you, send the other and
heavier one on by slow goods train. This will be found cheaper than
taking all the luggage with you, as only 56 lb. of luggage is allowed
free.
(_b_) In South Germany. For luggage, provide 2 leather-covered basket
trunks and a black travelling bag, with necessaries for the voyage.
If household linen has to be taken, pillow cases are best supplied at
the school, being larger and different in shape from English ones;
allow two large bath towels and a clothes bag, in addition to what is
required. For dress, 2 thick blanket serge costumes, in addition to
2 cashmere dresses, fur cloak, eiderdown skirt, 2 knitted skirts,
princess petticoats, high necked, in thick stuff, for winter wear,
Galatea or white for summer; 2 short jackets, one thick cloth; also
a shawl, as the passages are very cold, and a wrap is required for
leaving the schoolrooms, as these again are rather over heated; white
dress and pretty lace aprons and frills, for evening wear, when the
young ladies are required to sit in the _salons_. Painting requisites
had better be taken, for they are expensive; no school books, beyond
church service and dictionary; add a few simple articles as suitable
birthday presents for school friends, as the girls are expected to
give on these occasions to mistresses and boarders, and it is tax on
a girl’s pocket money. About 4 gingham housemaid dresses and 2 white
cambric ones will be required for summer wear. Boots and furs are in
comparison cheap in Germany. Seal fur caps are usual for winter wear.
_Bathing and Swimming Dresses._--There are 3 main points to consider
before deciding on the make of a bathing dress: (_a_) the place
at which it is to be worn, whether an English or a Continental
watering place; (_b_) whether the wearer swims or merely bathes;
(_c_) whether the wearer is a child, a girl, or a middle-aged woman.
The best materials for bathing dresses are summer serge, cashmere
serge, alpaca, wool bège, and twill flannel; give preference to the
first two, because they are soft, pliable, and light, do not cling
objectionably to the figure when wet, and may be obtained in almost
any colour. Alpaca is recommended for its lightness to swimmers
especially, but both this material and wool bège can only be had in
black and neutral tints; whilst twill flannel can be bought in all
colours, is very comfortable and warm, especially for children, and
has only one drawback--that its woolliness prevents it from being
allowed in most fresh-water swimming baths, and renders it, for this
reason, an unwise investment for one who wishes to frequent baths on
return to town.
The best way to make a swimming dress for use in England, to ensure
comfort and ease, is to have a loose bodice to the waist fastened
into a broad band, from which the drawers are suspended, the bodice
fastening down the centre, the drawers on the left side. The
combination style of garment, i.e., all one piece from the neck to
the knees, has one great objection, viz., that any mishap with the
buttons is very awkward when there is no skirt. This need never be
feared when the bodice and drawers are made separately and fastened
at the side, and the only way to avoid it in the combination style
is to make the dress open to the waist and then have it cut straight
across and down the side of the hips for 5-6 in., so that it can
be buttoned up on to the waist-band. A dress intended for swimming
only should be as simple as possible. It should not come over the
knees, and not be trimmed with a large collar or elaborate sleeves.
Deep white cotton fringe or Torchon lace will be found to give quite
sufficient finish. 3 yds. of 24 in. material will be found ample to
make a dress of this description for a girl about 20.
Where ladies bathe with gentlemen their dress must come below the
knees, must have a skirt from the waist, and must have sleeves of
some kind, and these, whether long or short, or however loose, are
always uncomfortable for swimming, as they cling and impede the
movements of the arm, whilst the whole dress is made heavier by these
additions. The only way to make such a dress more comfortable is in
the first place to avoid making the skirt too heavy or too deep, and
next to make the drawers longer than is really needed, and to fasten
them in at the knee, so that the legs may be moved comfortably.
Children’s bathing dresses are best made in the “combination” style,
of bège or some warm material, for the shivering cold feeling
some children get in the water when they are not able to swim is
one of the chief causes of their dislike and fear of sea bathing.
Bathing dresses for matrons may be made in almost any style, however
elaborate or heavy. A very comfortable dress for ordinary wear in
England may be made with drawers reaching either to the knee or
ankle, and gathered in by a band of turkey red or material with
which the dress is trimmed, running alternately in and out of
inch-deep slips made for the purpose; the upper part being simply a
long loose blouse made either with a yolk, sailor collar, gauging, or
any other design at the neck, and fastened at the waist with a broad
band, so as to leave the skirt loose to the knees. A dress made in
this way will take about 5 yd. of 24 in. material. Another kind of
bathing dress is made with combination bodice and drawers, with the
addition of a deep cape plaited into the neck and reaching to the
elbows, and a skirt from the waist. Colour and trimming are the chief
points in the finish of a bathing dress. Only those who really have
a good appearance should choose a brilliant colour like red, blue,
pink, or yellow, charming as these colours are in the water.
To avoid looking conspicuous, have some neutral tint or dark colour,
and bright trimming. Black is particularly becoming for bathing
costumes, as it shows up the whiteness of the skin, and it is
convenient besides, because it can be trimmed with any colour or
design.
Plain white canvas shoes laced with a colour to match the dress are
perhaps the best; but straw or cork soles, with an upper piece of
the same material as the dress, laced with broad strips of braid to
match the trimming, are also good. The upper part should be cut from
the pattern of a gentleman’s slipper, fitted, sewn on to the sole,
and pierced with 3 holes along each side. The braid is fastened each
side of the holes nearest the toe, laced across into the others,
and continued sandalwise up to the knee. It is useless to think of
keeping the head dry, so caps should always be made to allow for
wetting. One good plan is to take a plain straight piece of stuff
like the dress, about ½ yd. long and ¼ yd. wide; place it straight
round the head, and fasten or tie it underneath the hair at the back
so as to leave the rest in loose folds. A cap the same shape as a
brewer’s is very pretty, placed on the head, with the point twisted
once and fastened on the left side. When bathing, a Japanese parasol
will prevent getting sunburnt. (E. M. B.)
_Mourning._--The tendency of the day is towards shorter periods of
mourning and deepening the mourning, so that half-mourning for aunts,
cousins, &c., is almost abandoned, and only resorted to in longer
periods of mourning. Crape is absolutely inadmissible with velvet,
satin, lace, bright or glacé silks, embroidery, fringe, excepting
the special “crape fringe,” or, indeed, with anything but mourning
silk, paramatta, merino, cashmere, woollen barège or grenadine, or
barathea. A widow’s mourning is the deepest, and continued longest.
For the first 12 months the dress and mantle must be of paramatta,
the skirt of the dress covered with crape, put on in one piece
to within an inch of the waist; sleeves tight to the arm, bodice
entirely covered with crape, deep, tight-fitting lawn cuffs with
broad hems, and deep lawn collar. The mantle or jacket, of the same
material as the dress, is very heavily trimmed with crape. The
widow’s cap must be worn for a year, but not beyond the year. The
bonnet is entirely of crape; it has a widow’s cap tacked inside, and
is worn with a crape veil with a deep hem. When the crape on the
dress requires renewing, it must be put on precisely as at first
until the first 9 months have expired, after which, if preferred,
it may be put on in 2 deep tucks, with about 1 in. space between
them. Crape cloth is permissible, and well adapted for a rough or
walking dress for the country; it wears well, and is not very easily
distinguishable from crape at a distance. After the expiration of the
first year, “widow’s silk” may be substituted for paramatta; but it
must be heavily trimmed with crape. This is worn for 3 months, when
the crape may be very sensibly lightened, and for the next 3 months
jet passementerie and fringe may be used. At the end of the 6 months
(18 months in all) crape may be left off, and plain black worn for 6
months; and 2 years complete the period of mourning. For the first
year, while a widow wears her weeds, she can, of course, accept no
invitations; and it is in the worst possible taste for her to be seen
in any place of public resort. After the first year she can, if so
disposed, gradually resume her place in society. It is usual for the
pocket hankerchiefs to have broad black edges, and no jewellery of
any kind, with the exception of jet, can be worn.
The mourning of a parent for a child, or a child for a parent, is
the next degree and lasts for 12 months. For the first 3, paramatta,
merino, coburg, woollen grenadine, or some similar material heavily
trimmed with crape, usually in 2 deep tucks, is worn; for the next 3,
silk mourning, with less crape, the latter arranged more ornamentally
in plaits, folds, or bouillonnés, is admissible. The crape bonnet
may have jet upon it, and the veil may be of net, with a deep crape
hem. Linen collars and cuffs cannot be worn with crape. Crèpe lisse
frills are _de rigueur_. Sable or any other coloured fur must be left
off; plain, untrimmed sealskin is admissible, but it never looks
well in really deep mourning. After 6 months, crape may be left off,
and plain black, with jet ornaments and black gloves, worn for 2
months. For the next 2, black dresses, with gold or silver, pearl
or diamond ornaments, and grey gloves, sewn with black. After this,
half-mourning--such as black dresses with white flowers or lace;
white dresses, with black ribbons; or grey dresses, trimmed with
black.
There is a very prevalent notion that red is a sort of mourning,
and that red flowers or ribbons may be worn with black for slight
mourning; but it is not in good taste. Only jet ornaments are
permissible with crape; neither gold, silver, nor precious stones can
be worn with it, neither can lace be in any way intermingled with
it. This is a fact which seems to be very imperfectly comprehended.
Society must be relinquished for 2 months, and it is in far better
taste to avoid balls so long as crape is worn. For grandparents,
the mourning is now only 6 months, 2 in silk and slight crape, 2 in
black, and 2 in half-mourning.
For brothers and sisters the mourning, is now usually 3-4 months.
It is correct to wear crape tolerably deep for 2 months, and plain
black for 2. For an uncle or aunt 6 weeks is the orthodox time, and
crape is not required. Black is generally worn the whole time, for
the first month with jet, afterwards with gold, silver, pearls or
diamonds; no coloured stones. For a great uncle or aunt 5 weeks, 2
in black, 3 half-mourning. For a first cousin, a month, generally
the whole time in black. It is not usual to wear mourning at all
for a second cousin, but if done 3 weeks are sufficient. Relations
by marriage are mourned for precisely in the same degree as real
ones: thus a wife wears exactly the same mourning for her husband’s
relations as she would for her own. There are, however, exceptions.
For instance, a lady would mourn for her uncle by marriage for 6
weeks if his wife (her aunt) were alive; but if she were dead the
mourning for the uncle might be curtailed to a month. A few remarks
may be made on “complimentary mourning.” For instance, when a man
has married a second time, his second wife must wear slight mourning
for 3 months on the death of his first wife’s parents, and for 6
weeks on the death of her brothers or sisters, if any intimacy
has been kept up. This is not _de rigueur_ like real mourning for
absolute relatives, but it is good taste, and usual in society. So
also it is usual for a mother, whose married son or daughter loses a
parent-in-law, to wear black--of course without crape--for one month,
and half-mourning for another.
There are some additional points of etiquette connected with
mourning. Black-edged envelopes and paper must be used. The width
known as “extra broad” is the deepest that should ever be used, even
by widows, the “double broad” being too much. Even for widows the
simple “broad” is in better taste than either; “middle” is the proper
width in mourning for parent or child; “narrow” for brothers or
sisters; “Italian” for all other relatives. Visiting cards are only
edged with black when crape is worn, so black-edged cards are not
requisite for an uncle or aunt. The edges should be of the same width
as that adopted for the paper. Cards returning thanks for the kind
inquiries of those who have either called or sent to inquire, should
not be sent out till the mourners feel equal to again receiving
visitors; it is the accepted token of their being once more visible.
Letters of condolence should be written on paper with a slight black
edge, and offence should never be taken if they are left unanswered.
Many people consider it correct to wear black on a first visit to a
house of mourning, and though this is not absolutely necessary, it
is certainly in better taste to avoid brilliant colours on such an
occasion. (_The Queen_).
_Travelling Dress._--(_a_) The fewer dresses to take for positive
travelling, the better. A black silk, fashionably made, is almost
indispensable. This should be accompanied by one or two stylish
muslin fichus and lace collarettes to wear on any dress occasion,
as it is tiresome not to be able to put in an appearance for lack
of suitable attire. It is a good plan to have this silk made with a
bodice separate from the skirt; and a white washing silk polonaise
will be found very useful. For travelling nothing is so suitable as
a light serge, and dark blue is the best colour. This should be made
with a plain skirt and polonaise, and have a jacket also to wear
when required; the plainer the better. Also take an alpaca costume,
or one of a light woollen stuff, and 2 dark blue linen ones; these
are cool if the weather prove hot. But to ensure real comfort in
travelling, the point is not the quantity of dress nor the kinds,
but to have them in working and wearable condition. They should be
arranged to loop up when required, and to fit well, &c. Thick kid
gloves, and gloves with gauntlets, are necessary; and a waterproof
petticoat, and one or two others. Always carry a waterproof dress
in your wraps; perhaps a good ulster would best replace it; there
never was so comfortable a garment for travelling. Plenty of rugs,
shawls, and, above all, a fur boa are desirable. Bonnets are not
necessary, and a felt hat is the best, with a good supply of veils, a
gauze one particularly. Thick boots are essential, and for climbing,
the new Hygeia boots of Marshall’s are real comforts. All the
dresses taken should be nearly if not quite new; travelling soon
reduces a half-worn dress to shabbiness. Paper collars and cuffs
are invaluable; they are as cheap as getting them washed, save an
infinity of trouble, and are sold in compact boxes taking little
room. If it is possible, pack in portable luggage; it will be found
a great comfort, for thereby many wearisome waiting hours are saved
at foreign railway stations. A Gladstone bag, or one of the portable
portmanteaus, holds almost all you require, with a travelling bag and
wraps.
(_b_) For a rough travelling dress select a dark blue bège or thin
serge, made with a short full plain skirt, and a rather long coat,
shaped, but not tight fitting, so that, if required, a bodice could
be worn underneath. For out-of-the-way travelling have the skirt
put into a very deep band, to fit tightly over the hips, and the
full gathers put into that; it will be found lighter, more becoming,
and better for the appearance of both skirt and jacket. The band
is of the same material. The bodice is made like a skirt, full and
tolerably loose, with straight neckband and coat sleeves, over which
are turned black lace, first tacked inside, turned over, and lightly
tacked down. Have a scarf of the dark blue material, 2½ yds. long,
and a little over ½ yd. wide, and use this to pass round the hips and
loop behind over the skirt band when you stop for any length of time
and have to take off your coat. This scarf gives at once a smart look
to the otherwise plain skirt. It is also useful in passing round the
neck in cold day or night travelling, and when not used rolls up into
a small compass, and goes in the wraps. The dark blue coat and scarf
look well over a stout holland plaited skirt (which is useful with
a plaited bodice and band for hot days). A soft hat with prominent
brim, and dark blue veil, should accompany the costume. Also have a
thin tweed of some dark grey colour, either made in the same way,
or with a plaited skirt, up to the hips, and a Norfolk jacket, with
band or a coat or a polonaise. Always have pieces of black lace to
tack into your travelling dress at throat and wrist, and take a white
piece, for wearing at any smart place. If the band of the dress is
high round the throat, no collar or lisse is necessary, only tack
the lace inside, turn it over, and tack it again lightly to keep it
down in place; the same at the wrists. Never take white petticoats
for rough travelling; a striped coloured one is best. Take black lace
neck scarf and gauze veils.
_Lawn Tennis Dress._--Short costumes made with bibs, Marguerite
sleeves (viz., slashed at the elbow and shoulders), and the tunic _à
la Laveuse_, appear to be a good style of dress for lawn tennis. A
white serge made thus, with red trimmings, is very effective; or a
light fawn tone, trimmed with bands of forget-me-nots, embroidered
on a darker shade; or a rough holland dress with no tunic, but made
with a yoke, bands, and large pockets, like an artist’s blouse,
embroidered in outline.
_Dress for the Moors._--A thick homespun or tweed costume is the most
serviceable for the moors. A leather petticoat is a comfort in bad
weather. Doré has introduced a good costume for ladies who go in for
sport, viz., gaiters and knickerbockers, buttoned at the knee, of
the same stuff as the skirt, which is kilt plaited, and is capable
of being made long or short. A long scarf can be easily arranged as
a tunic, or be wrapped about the shoulders, and a jacket, waistcoat,
and cap of the same stuff make it complete. An ulster with a cape and
hood attached is comfortable, so is a Norfolk blouse. In Scotland,
ladies wear in the daytime little else but these tailor-made suits.
In the matter of boots, black leather Balmoral walking boots are
best, with thick soles, and for bad weather, the gaiter boot, which
comes half-way up the leg. Phipps and Barker, of Cadogan-house,
Sloane Street, have brought out a water-tight Highland boot, to
button or lace. The latter give support, are a good fit, and durable,
keeping their shape well, and are light in weight--a great point
where there is much walking. Marshall and Burt of Oxford Street, have
besides a Balmoral boot with double or clump soles, some of porpoise
hide, which will stand hard walking, and are excellent hygienic
boots, preserving the foot in a natural position, with low heels and
projecting soles.
_Dress for Walking Tour._--Procure from Marshall and Burt, 192,
Oxford Street, a pair of Hygeia boots, which keep the feet warm and
dry, do not unduly press, and are not heavy. They are waterproof,
and should be well greased from time to time. Wear light woollen
stockings, well soaped, and a thin tweed dress, plain skirt, and
Norfolk blouse, with an outer jacket when required and an all-round
mackintosh; a felt hat, bound with corded ribbon, a rosette at the
side; loose gauntlet gloves. The mackintosh should be accompanied by
a tarpaulin cover for the hat. An umbrella stick is a comfort.
_Dress for Yacht._--(_a_) A black lace or canvas and silk dress is
sufficient. Liberty’s soft silks are invaluable, as they take up
little room, and pack well. Take a dark pretty dressing gown for your
bath in the morning, and avoid making an object of yourself then by
going attired in a waterproof, with your head tied up in a shawl, as
is the fashion of many ladies. (_b_) For a month’s cruise on a public
yacht a lady who has been a similar voyage advises dress as follows:
One light weight serge or cloth dress, one tweed ditto, a jacket that
can be worn with both, an ulster, and plenty of wraps, a rug, a high
short dress for dinner, a dress for excursions, one lace dress. A
useful and nearly essential item is a short dark silk tea gown, which
can be easily slipped on for dinner in rough weather; for instance,
a black Merveilleux satin, trimmed with black lace and red ribbons.
Other necessaries are pockets to nail against the cabin walls, plenty
of Florida water or eau de Cologne. A large supply of under-linen,
to enable you to be independent of the laundress during the hurried
washing in port, is a great advantage.