be no doubt that knee-breeches are on the whole more seemly and
convenient than trousers. Certainly all callings which entail much
physical exertion would profit by the change. In particular, this
is true of labour in the open air. In this form of work especially,
where there is frequent and prolonged movement of joint and muscle,
the weight of surplus clothing soon occasions weariness, and the
surroundings are not the most cleanly. The labourer if knee-breeched
and gaitered would be disencumbered of as much heavy moleskin or
corduroy as would otherwise fall below the knee, a part of his
clothing would not then as now flap about the feet for no good
purpose but to be soiled by the mire of his work, or in wet and cold
weather to lead to illness by chilling or freezing on his legs.
Gaiters of some close and not too heavy material might be worn over
the stockings. They would be comparatively out of the way of dirt,
would maintain warmth, would brace the muscles by equal and moderate
pressure (a noteworthy consideration with men who are much on their
feet), and if wetted might be easily removed and replaced by another
pair. (_Lancet._)
Though in summer cotton socks are cool and pleasant, when one can
wear thin shoes, and there does not exist any necessity for walking
a long distance, woollen stockings are actually much more suitable
at all seasons. Woollen stockings woven of coarse yarn absorb the
perspiration and preserve the feet from blistering, and are cooler
than cotton ones on a long walk. Tight garters are frequently worn
below the knee by women. Garters in any position are bad, but if used
they should be worn above the knee, as the two tendons to be felt at
the back of the joint receive the pressure and act as a bridge to the
veins which pass beneath. The garters as usually worn are a frequent
cause of enlarged veins in the leg, and by interfering with the
blood supply of the foot also favour the development of chilblains.
Stocking suspenders bearing on the hips are far better.
Boots.--Boots and shoes must be easy, broad in the toes and sole
generally, while the waist should have some degree of elasticity and
not be absolutely rigid. High and narrow heels give an insecure hold
of the ground, and throw the weight, which ought to be distributed
over the sole, forward on the front part of the base of the toes.
This unnatural position, besides rendering the risk of sprained
ankles much greater, stretches the fibrous bands which bind the
various and complicated bones of the instep into a beautiful arch,
strong yet springy. The tough fibres yield, the foot flattens,
elasticity and grace of movement disappear to a large extent, and
aching pains are complained of. If we wish to walk elegantly,
comfortably, far, and with ease, straight broad soles and low heels
must be worn. Attention should constantly be paid to children’s
boots and shoes, so as to have them lengthened or renewed as soon
as they become short. The foot elongates considerably in walking,
so all boots should have a full ½ in. or more of spare length to
permit of this. Women’s boots and shoes are generally far too thin.
Besides being worn thicker, the addition of an inner sole of cork
covered with felt excludes damp from the ground or pavement, and
aids in keeping the feet warm. These soles should, however, be taken
out and dried at night or when the boots are laid aside. Lacing
boots are better than elastic side ones, though in some ways the
latter are more convenient. Patent leather boots are only suitable
for occasional wear; like galoshes, they do not allow the escape of
perspiration, hence are unhealthy, and if worn constantly engender
habitual cold feet.
Do not purchase boots the uppers of which are formed of leather
possessing an artificial grain. This is easy to detect; the rollers
from which the skins receive their impressions are of too even a
pattern, and the imitation is struck deeper than the real. Good
upper leathers should handle mellow; leather destitute of suppleness
and soft silkiness, or that leaves a decided line whenever pressed
into a crease, should, in all instances, be avoided. With regard to
the soles of boots, great precautions should be used to see that
they are of the thickness they seem to be. It has become a practice
with cutting manufacturers to use an outer sole of extremely light
substance, making up the deficiency by means of an extra inserted
welt. By this plan a box is formed between the inner and outer
sole, the hollowness of which is filled in with scraps of leather,
cardboard, or any foreign substance that is easily procurable and is
fitted for the purpose. When sole leather has been cut and affixed
as soles, the distinguishing marks that characterise good and bad
leather are hidden from sight, so that the means of detecting that
which should be avoided are few, and difficult to point out to a
tyro. Sole leather being placed to resist moisture, it should not
be too porous; in other words, it should be close in its grain, and
possessed of a full share of firmness. The firmness here spoken of is
something entirely distinct from brittleness. There can be solidity
without brittleness, and this should be easily distinguished.
A boot should have a good and sufficient stiffener inserted at the
heel to strengthen its back, and facilitate the getting of it on or
off. This should be carefully inserted, and be shaped away so as to
offer no resistance to the entrance of the foot. The top portion
should be firmly secured to the back that it is meant to strengthen;
so much so that there should be no possibility of its rucking down
upon the insertion of the foot. It should be observed whether there
is a superfluity of leather in the waist of the foot, that is, under
the arch of the foot. The existence of such useless leather is a sure
sign that the boot has been badly lasted, and that it has little
or no spring in it, and that it will consequently give little or
no support to the arch of the foot it covers. The buttonholes of a
boot upper, if it have any, should be well and carefully stitched,
and they will be found to wear much better if they are protected by
the insertion of a cord. This cord sustains the drag or strain that
the unprotected leather would otherwise have to bear. The channel is
that portion of a hand-sewn boot in which the thread that attaches
the outer sole to the welt lies hidden. Care should be taken by
the purchaser to see that this channel is well and sufficiently
closed over, otherwise it is easy to perceive that the sole has lost
more than half its resisting power to damp or wet, and that the
stitches will get soaked and speedily rot. The “seat” of a boot is
that portion just above its heel. Look at this carefully. If it is
likely to tread over by failing to resist the pressure it will be
called upon to bear, do not by any means be persuaded to become the
purchaser of boots with this defect. The reason why the front part of
the upper of a boot is cut in two portions is because that practice
conduces to economy. In selecting a pair of boots great care should
be taken to avoid those in which the join falls over the great-toe
joint.
Some time ago a correspondent of _The Field_ gave an excellent and
simple method of treating the soles of boots to make them last as
long as the “uppers.” The plan was to apply to them when new as
many coats of coachmaker’s varnish as the leather would soak up.
In varnishing the soles the following hints are of value, though,
however roughly the operation is performed, they will become
waterproof and durable:--(_a_) See that the soles are dry before
using the varnish; also scrape off the black polish from the face
of the heels; (_b_) thin the varnish according to circumstances;
1 tablespoonful turps to ½ pint varnish will usually be the right
proportions; (_c_) place the boots, soles upwards, in a dry place,
and give soles and heels 3 copious coats of varnish the first day, 2
the second day, and one coat each day after that until the leather
will absorb no more; (_d_) do not miss a day, or the soles will
harden and no more varnish will go into the leather; (_e_) 2 days
after the last coat the boots should be worn, so that the soles may
get shaped to the feet whilst moist. These directions may appear
elaborate, but they are really very simple; and however badly the
varnishing is done, the results will, to a certain extent, be good.
Ladies who have much walking are strongly advised to have kid
leggings made at a bootmaker’s to button on from the tops of their
boots to their knees; they can then go out in wet, damp, or extremely
cold weather with perfect impunity. For girls who walk to and fro to
attend school, or for those who are forced to go out in all weathers,
the plan is a good one and well worthy of trial. The leggings are no
weight, they are very warm, and will keep out damp and cold; whilst
they are small enough to be carried about in a pocket, and put on or
left off at a moment’s notice; so that they need only be worn when
extra protection is absolutely needed.
Squeaky boots may be cured by the injection of powdered French
chalk through a perforation in the inner sole; the free use of the
same substance between the soles when boots are being made will
effectually prevent any trouble of this nature.
Gloves.--In winter, at least, woollen gloves should be worn, as
best preserving the proper circulation of the blood in the hands,
and lessening the chance of chilblains. In the warm seasons silk or
cotton ones are preferable to kid.
Head-gear.--Were it possible to form a covering for men’s heads which
would admit both light and air in due proportions, a great problem
would be solved, and baldness would be reduced to a minimum. Since
hats are a necessity, they should be very light, pliant as far as
may be, well ventilated, and with a soft band which will compress
the arteries of the temple as little as possible. The hat, too,
should only be worn when it cannot be laid aside--not constantly, or
when in the house. Ventilation is best secured by having a slight
space between the band and the hat proper in front and behind, the
hat being close to the head at the sides, to avoid conveying the
impression of being over large. In addition, there should be a hole
in the crown for cold weather, and in the sides and crown in summer.
As to women’s bonnets, any advice would be a mere waste of words.
Veils, especially those ornamented with spots, &c., have a bad effect
on the eyes. Persistent mischief is done by the practice of binding
a veil tightly round the face in such a way that not only is the
sight obscured, but the eyes are mechanically irritated by the fabric
clouding them.... Veils of to-day are semi-transparent eye-bandages,
and must tend to disturb the vision, as well as to set up irritation
in the eye-lids. (_Lancet._)
Waterproofs.--It is highly important that the public should
clearly understand the manner in which waterproof garments may
prove injurious to health, and how any effect of this kind may be
prevented. A mackintosh is perspiration-proof as well as rain-proof,
and, consequently, when one is worn the perspiration, being unable to
escape, accumulates in the clothes, and they become damp. Upon its
removal, the evaporation of this fluid--in other words, the drying
process--commences, with its attendant loss of heat and well-known
risk of “chill.” The retention of this heat, which would otherwise
be gradually lost, makes the mackintosh invaluable during a long
drive on a cold winter’s day. The disadvantage of this garment is,
not that it inflicts any injury while it is on; but that our clothes
being damp, we may catch cold upon its removal, unless our dress be
changed at the same time; and when the dampness is very decided this
precaution should certainly be taken. Endeavour to avoid excessive
perspiration by walking slowly when you have a mackintosh on, and do
not wear it in hot weather except for driving. (Dr. P. Foster.)
_How to Buy Clothes._--Low-priced materials do not wear so well as
those for which a fair amount is paid; but it is not in the power of
every woman to purchase materials which are necessarily expensive.
The woman of small means will do well to confine her purchases to
some well-established shop, famed rather for the soundness of its
goods than for their apparent cheapness.
Ladies’ boots and shoes cannot be well made and of good materials
for a little money; 21_s._ to 25_s._ for boots, 16_s._ to 18_s._
for walking shoes, suited for town wear, is about the lowest price
for which a really good serviceable article can be obtained; but
each of these will wear out three so-called cheap ones, and will
look well to the last, after being twice soled. No boot or shoe will
last if the servant is allowed to scrape the dirt off with a knife,
put blacking on soft kid, or smear it over with some patent satin
polish or peerless gloss. See to the cleaning of your boots and
shoes yourself--that is, only have the dirt wiped off, and the kid
well rubbed dry by the servant, and put on the polish yourself if it
must be used. Evening shoes of a colour suitable for any dress can
scarcely be had good for anything under 10_s._ 6_d._ or 12_s._ 6_d._,
but they will wear out several cheaper pairs, and look well to the
last.
The greatest mistake is to be perpetually attempting to keep pace
with “fashion.” The best-dressed women are never “in the fashion,”
as it is represented in young ladies’ journals. For economical
dressing without dowdiness, the golden rule is to buy the best and
soundest materials possible for your means, to keep to such quiet
colours as will enable you to wear your dresses long without getting
tired of them or tiring your friends; to buy a mantle, for instance,
which is too good to need changing at the end of the year, but which
is handsome enough to wear two seasons, and to bear retrimming or
altering the third.
Many ladies now make their own dresses, and make them well; but where
this is not the case, it is cheaper in the long run to have a good
material well made than to have it spoiled in the cut and made by an
inferior workwoman. Many find it economical to have one good dress
every year from a first-class dressmaker: this lasts and makes up
again in many new forms, and serves as a model for making others less
expensively, either by themselves or by a workwoman. A clever-handed
woman can generally make up or trim her own hats and bonnets, and if
she carries out the same system of only buying what is really good,
and taking care of it, she will find it at the end of the year a
really small item in her expenditure. Much depends also on keeping up
the supply of underclothing by constant small additions, rather than
by allowing them to wear out altogether, when a renewal of the whole
stock will form a serious item. Gloves, again, are things which there
is no cheapness in buying at a low price; 2 or even 3 of them will
wear out before one pair bought at a good shop and at a fair price;
by this means they cost far more, and always spoil the whole dress.
Persons of moderate means should as a rule, dress in black, or dark
colours, as such are not conspicuous, and consequently do not tell
their date as lighter articles do. In selecting a hat or bonnet, be
sure to ascertain that the shape suits you, and that it fits your
head comfortably. Do not indulge in feathers, still less in flowers,
unless your means are such as to enable you to procure the best,
as nothing is more vulgar than cheap finery. For a windy day there
is nothing half so comfortable as a tightly-fitting toque, but it
must be neat and faultlessly made. A well-made toque is graceful,
becoming, and comfortable, and, with a neat veil of spotted net
closely adjusted over the face and fastened securely behind, will
enable the wearer to brave the most stormy elements without fear of
having her head-covering blown away or even misplaced. It is a great
improvement, if a dark-coloured toque be worn, to stick a bright
pin carelessly in front in a slanting direction, as though securing
the top of the veil. To a youthful face it is always becoming, as
it takes off the too sombre appearance and lightens up the general
effect.
Jackets should not be worn quite tight, unless the figure is
particularly good, and without this important “unless” Newmarkets
should not be worn at all. Better be content with well-made ulsters,
except in cases where the figure is slight and graceful, and the
purse is long enough to admit of 7 or 8 sovereigns being paid for
a tailor-made article. For travelling or walking there are few
costumes more comfortable, nor any which look better on young slight
figures, than dark green or brown cloth Newmarkets, with felt hats
to correspond, and white or light coloured satin scarfs, with gold
or pearl pins stuck neatly through. These coats cannot look well
if worn over a dress. The following plan is good and extremely
simple. Get your tailor, when measuring for your coat, to make you
a perfectly close-fitting garment of the same coloured satin--made
without ¼ in. of superfluous material--Princesse shaped, the long
straight skirt just reaching a shade below the garment to be worn
over it, and finished off at the tail with a tiny plaiting of
satin, which, appearing from beneath the Newmarket, detracts from
the manly appearance of this species of muffle. The advantages are
manifold; not having any _pouffes_ behind, the set of the coat is
not interfered with; being of a slippery nature the utmost care is
experienced in putting on and taking off the covering, and should
necessity or inclination call for a removal of the coat, a perfectly
neat and becoming garment is visible underneath.
The most economical dress for everyday wear is a dark navy-blue
serge, and for evening a good white silk. Morning dresses made with
double-breasted bodices are the most becoming, and the warmest; for
evening the square-cut bodice and tight elbow-sleeve are the most
_distingué_. Bodices gathered back and front (“shirred”) are very
pretty, and suit slight figures well, but should never be worn except
by such. Many ladies spoil the fit of their dresses in winter by
wearing under-vests. This is a bad habit, as, if the vest be left
off of an evening, a cold is sure to follow. It is an excellent plan
to tack a piece of soft warm flannel around the back and shoulders
of the bodice about midway from the neck, and properly shaped to the
lining; this imparts a comfortable warmth, and, as a similar piece
can be adjusted to the back of an evening bodice, the danger of cold
is obviated.
For wearing around the throat with morning dress plain collars have
rather a stiff appearance; tulle or lisse frillings toss immediately,
and are unsatisfactory as well as expensive. It is a good plan to
purchase a few yards of really good washing lace about 1½ in. deep; a
few minutes will quill or plait it; it can then be cut into suitable
lengths and tacked around the necks of dresses, being easily removed
and renovated when soiled. A piece of soft black Spanish lace, folded
loosely around the throat, close to the frilling but below it, looks
very well, especially if a natural or good artificial flower be worn
amongst the folds. Another effective arrangement can be adopted thus:
Buy 3 yd. scarf lace--a good kind, of course--trim the ends with
quillings to match, place it around your neck, leaving nearly all
the length in your right hand, the end lying upon the left shoulder,
being about ½ yd. long. Wind the longer piece twice round the
throat, in loose soft folds; and as you will still have 1½ yd. or
more to spare, festoon it gracefully in front with the aid of a few
concealed pins, and fasten a brooch or flower at the side.
Tan gloves are the best for wear. Long silk mittens are extremely
pretty in the evening, and shorter ones midway to the elbow, look
nice in the house with the half-long sleeves. To keep the feet warm,
wear a pair of soft woollen stockings, with silk ones drawn over.
This hint is invaluable to those who ride, as it is not unusual, on
hunting days, to experience a severe chill, if riding a tired horse
homeward at a slow pace after a hard day. One word about fur-lined
cloaks. They seem to be a sort of muffle, quite unsuited for walking,
and only fit to be worn as a wrap, in a vehicle, on a cold day.
Apparently made for warmth, they let in every breath of chill air,
unless held carefully across; and it is not easy thus to hold them,
if one has an umbrella or a parcel to carry, or a muff to hold in
the hands. Here is a valuable hint. Take the pattern of the sleeves
of your Mother Hubbard cloak, and the precise measurement of the
spot in which they are placed--copy them exactly, and insert them in
the fur-lined mantle, binding the inner edges neatly with ribbon to
prevent the fur, which is cut, from coming loose. Then remove the
hood, place a neat full frilling of cashmere and satin around the
neck, and a full bow, with long ends, at the back. Next put 5 rows
of gathers at the back of the waist, to which attach, on the inner
side, a band of ½ in. black elastic, with a strong hook and eye.
This, when fastened, draws the cloak close to the figure and gives it
a becoming shape. The band is preferable to a ribbon-string, as it is
more readily adjusted and can never get into a knot. In making the
gathers, small fragments of the fur may pull with the thread and show
on the outside; these should not be plucked at, but simply blackened
over with a little ink. To utilise the hood for going out at night,
or for variety to wear with the cloak by day, bind it nicely with
black ribbon, leaving long ends for strings to tie in front. The
materials required to effect this transformation are: ¾ yd. cashmere,
1 yd. black satin, 5 yd. ribbon for back and sleeve bows, and 3 yd.
binding ribbon.
An important consideration is how to dress so as to suit individual
peculiarities. Thus, a short stout figure should have perpendicular
trimmings to her dress, the eye being thus carried to lines marking
the height, not the breadth, of her person. A tall figure, on the
contrary, may have bands of trimming or tucks running across the
skirt; this reduces the apparent height. Stout people, be they tall
or short, should remember that they require almost no trimmings or
puffings. They look handsomely dressed in quite a plain garment, if
it be well cut and rich in texture. Thin people, on the contrary,
take any amount of trimming and puffing to give them a sufficiently
clothed appearance. The first study in every case is what is
becoming, not what is fashionable. The principal idea should be to
attract attention to the wearer, not to the dress.