butter and half of the sugar into the flour, beat along with it 1
egg, about 20 drops essence of lemon, mix all together, and roll out
the cakes with the remainder of the sugar; a little ammonia carbonate
is an improvement. Turn in fancy shapes, and bake on a hot tin about
15 minutes; but the time must be regulated according to the oven, but
quick baking is desirable.
_King Henry’s Shoestrings._--Make a batter with ¼ lb. flour, ¼ pint
milk, a piece of butter the size of an egg, the juice of a lemon,
and powdered loaf sugar to taste. When well mixed set it on the fire
for 10 minutes, till the batter comes easily from the sides of the
saucepan. Mix in (off the fire) a handful of sweet almonds, chopped
up, and the yolks of 4 eggs. Let the whole get cold, then work into
it the whites of 3 eggs, whisked to a froth, and spread out the
batter on a baking sheet. Sift plenty of powdered sugar over, bake 10
minutes in a slow oven, cut it out in strips, serve hot or cold.
_Leche Crema._--Beat up 3 eggs, leaving out 2 of the whites, and
add to them gradually 1½ pint milk, then mix very carefully 4
tablespoonfuls fine wheat flour, and 2 oz. finely powdered loaf
sugar, with grated lemon peel to flavour. Boil these ingredients over
a slow fire, stirring constantly to prevent burning, until the flour
is quite dissolved. Prepare a dish with ¾ lb. ratafia cakes at the
bottom, having a glass of cognac or any liqueur poured over them,
and when the cream is sufficiently boiled, pour it boiling through a
sieve on the cakes. This delicious dish is always served up cold, and
should have some finely powdered cinnamon dusted over. The genuine
recipe, obtained from the Nuns of St. Clare Convent at Palmas, in the
Canary Islands.
_Lemon Cream._--Soak for 2 hours a 6_d._ packet of gelatine in a
large cup of good milk; then place the milk and gelatine in a clean
saucepan on the fire, adding the very thin rind of 2 lemons; keep
stirring this on the fire till the gelatine is quite dissolved,
then add 2 oz. pounded white sugar, stir again on the fire till the
sugar is dissolved, then strain this on to 1 pint cream in a bowl
(the cream must not be too thick), and keep whisking it gently till
thoroughly mixed, then add the strained juice of 2 good lemons; keep
whisking the whole till nearly set, but take care not to beat too
hard or too strong; when nearly cold, pour into a mould (crockery),
and turn out in the usual manner when wanted for table.
_Lemon Dumplings._-½ lb. grated bread, ½ lb. suet, chopped fine, ¼
lb. loaf sugar powdered, 2 eggs, the juice and thin rind of a lemon.
Mix, make 8 dumplings, and boil 1 hour.
_Lemon Pudding._--To ½ lb. good butter add 2 lb. loaf sugar, broken
as for tea, the yolks of 12 eggs and the whites of 8, the rinds of 4
lemons, to be peeled very thin and minced as fine as possible, and
the juice of 6; put all those into a saucepan, and boil them till the
sugar is dissolved and it is as thick as honey, taking care to stir
it well all the time it is on the fire; then pour it into a jar, and
add a wineglassful of brandy or whisky; tie it very close. When going
to use it add 4 tablespoonfuls very fine-grated bread for a small
pudding. This will keep for 6 months.
_Lemon Soufflé._--Beat very lightly the yolks and whites of 8 eggs
separately, add 1 teacupful white sugar, the rind of 2 lemons, and
the juice of 1; bake for ¼ hour in a moderate oven.
_Lemon Sponge._--Whisk the whites of 6 eggs till firm. Boil 1 oz.
isinglass in 1 pint water till it is reduced to ½ pint; when nearly
cold add it gradually to the eggs, also the juice of 4 lemons, and
the grated rind, 1½ lb. loaf sugar powdered; whisk all together till
it is as thick as sponge.
_Lemon Toast._--Beat the yolks of 3 eggs and mix with them ½ pint
milk; dip slices of bread into the mixture, then fry them a delicate
brown in boiling butter. Take the whites of the eggs, beat them to a
froth, add to them 3 oz. white sugar and the juice of a small lemon.
Stir in a small teacupful of boiling water, and serve as a sauce over
the toast.
_Lentil Pudding._--3 oz. lentil flour, 1 oz. cornflour, 1 pint milk,
3 eggs, and a pinch of salt; pour the milk boiling gradually on to
the flour, stirring it; when cool add the eggs well beaten; mix well,
boil an hour in a buttered plain mould; serve with sweet sauce.
_Macaroni au Gratin._--Drop the macaroni into boiling water, and cook
till quite tender. Make a sauce of milk, thickened with flour and
butter, to which add a small spoonful of made mustard, cayenne, and
salt to taste. Let the macaroni remain in this a short time; turn out
on a buttered dish, and cover with grated cheese and breadcrumbs.
Brown in the oven.
_Macaroni, Boiled._--Put into a large saucepan plenty of water,
salted to taste; when the water boils throw in the macaroni, broken
into convenient lengths, but not too short; stir frequently. When
the macaroni is done, pour in a jugful of cold water, and strain the
macaroni quite free from any water. According to its size macaroni
takes 20-30 minutes to cook; it should not be done too much.
_Macaroni Cheese._--Take sufficient boiled macaroni to fill a square
dish or tin; when buttered pile up with layers of macaroni and grated
cheese (a highly flavoured and dry cheese is best); add plenty of
mustard and butter, some cayenne, salt, and pepper; cover all with
the grated cheese, bake a yellow brown, serve very hot.
_Macaroni Pie._--Take a piece of gravy beef, cut in small pieces, put
it into a saucepan with an onion sliced, and a piece of butter; toss
it on the fire till the onion and the pieces of meat are browned;
then add a glass of white wine, a faggot of sweet herbs, a carrot cut
in pieces, spices, pepper, and salt to taste, a few mushrooms, and
a fair allowance of tomato sauce. Let the whole simmer for 2 hours,
then strain, and skim off superfluous fat. Put the boiled macaroni
into a saucepan with a piece of butter, plenty of Parmesan cheese,
and as much of the sauce or gravy as it will absorb; toss it on the
fire a little while, and put it by till wanted. Make a smooth and
stiff paste with 1 lb. fine flour, 5 oz. fresh butter, 2 or 3 yolks
of eggs, 2 oz. sugar, a pinch of salt, and sufficient tepid water.
Roll it out to the thickness of ⅛ in., and line with it a plain round
mould previously buttered, uniting the joints carefully with white
of egg. Have ready some very small fillets of breasts of chicken,
just cooked with butter in a covered tin in the oven, some cooked ham
or ox tongue cut in dice, some truffles, mushrooms, and cockscombs,
cut in convenient pieces and cooked in the gravy used to dress the
macaroni. Fill the lined mould with all these things in judicious
proportions, letting the macaroni, of course, predominate, and adding
during the process a little more sauce or gravy and a due allowance
of Parmesan cheese; cover up the mould with a disc of the paste,
unite the edges carefully, and bake in a moderate oven for about an
hour. Turn out the mould carefully and serve.
_Macaroni Pudding._--(_a_) Take 2 oz. small macaroni (vermicelli,
fidelini, or spaghetti), break them up small, and put them into 1
pint boiling milk, sweetened to taste with lump sugar. Let them boil
till quite done; add ½ oz. fresh butter, and pour the whole into
a pudding dish; then stir in the yolks of 2 eggs beaten up with a
little cold milk and strained. Strew some powdered cinnamon or some
grated nutmeg on the top, and bake for about 20 minutes.
(_b_) Take 2 oz. small macaroni, broken up small as in (_a_), put
them with the thin rind of a lemon into 1 pint boiling milk sweetened
to taste with lump sugar; when quite done, turn it all out into a
pudding dish, remove the lemon rind, and stir in ½ gill cream beaten
up with the strained yolks of 2 eggs. Strew powdered cinnamon over,
and bake as in (_a_).
_Macaroni Soufflé._--Break up about 1 oz. small macaroni into very
small pieces, throw it into fast-boiling salted water, let it boil 20
minutes, then drain off the water and put the macaroni into ½ pint
milk, with sugar to taste and a piece of cinnamon; let it boil till
it has absorbed all the milk. Put it by to get cold, work into it
the yolks of 4 eggs and the whites of 6 whisked into a stiff froth,
pour the mixture into a tin large enough to allow room for rising,
strew a little finely powdered sugar over it, and place the tin at
once into a quick oven. It will take 15-20 minutes to cook, and as
soon as the soufflé has well risen, and its top has taken colour, it
is ready, and must be served immediately in the tin itself, a little
finely powdered sugar being sprinkled on the top.
_Macaroni Timbale._--Take ½ lb. Naples macaroni, boil it until quite
soft, drain it on a cloth, cut it in pieces ½ in. long, well butter
a plain mould, line it with buttered paper, place in it the macaroni
endways, so as to give the appearance of honeycomb when turned out.
Make a paste thus: Put 1 gill water, a small piece of butter, and
a little salt into a stewpan to boil. When boiling throw into it 1
tablespoonful flour, leave it a few minutes, then stir in 1 egg, turn
it on to a plate until wanted. Take 1 lb. veal cutlet, remove the
skin and bone, pound it in a mortar, and add to it half the quantity
of the above paste, and a quarter of the quantity of butter, with
salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste, mix all together, add 1 whole egg
and 3 yolks, pass it through a wire sieve, stir in 1 gill white stock
or milk, pour it into the mould, and steam for ½ hour. Serve with
truffle or plain brown sauce.
_Macaroni with Tomato Sauce._--Throw 1 lb. macaroni into a saucepan
of boiling water and salt; the water must be quite boiling. When
sufficiently cooked, strain off all the water, put it into a
saucepan, with 3 oz. butter, 3 oz. grated Parmesan cheese, and the
tomato sauce. Keep it on the fire until the macaroni acquires a fine
colour from the tomatoes, but care must be taken not to keep it too
long on the fire, lest it become soft and pasty. The tomatoes are
prepared for the sauce as follows: Take ripe tomatoes, wash, dry
them, and cut them into halves; put them into a saucepan without any
water, with salt, pepper, a few cloves, a little onion and celery,
and boil till sufficiently done; pass through a sieve, and pour into
the saucepan of macaroni as mentioned above.
_Malvern Pudding._--It is made by cutting slices of bread ¼-½ in.
thick, according to taste, or as to whether it be required for
children or matured persons. These slices have next to be cut into
such triangular shapes as will admit of their filling the side of
a basin when placed points downwards. This is the only part of the
process that requires a little judgment and care. If the basin
required be large, or, say, of a quart size or more, and the slices
of bread are not wide enough to admit of the triangular pieces
reaching to the top of the basin, then some slices of a suitable
width may be cut to fill up with. This done, a round slice may be
put at the bottom, and then an inch or so in thickness of stewed
rhubarb. Then more slices of bread, among which the trimmings may
be utilised. Then another inch of the stewed rhubarb, and so on
till the basin is filled. The last layer of bread should be whole,
if the loaf be conveniently large, if not, the straight edges of
two pieces may be placed together, and a knife run round them close
to the edge of the basin so that they may be pressed down a little
below the level of the edge to allow for the little swelling of
the bread that will occur. To bind the whole together, 2 eggs to 1
pint basin should be used. The eggs should be well beaten with a
large tablespoonful of milk to each egg. With this stewed rhubarb,
unless it has been simmered to a dry or almost candied form, it is
better to pour a suitable quantity of the beaten eggs and milk as
the layers are formed, as, by doing this, all the spaces between the
bread will be filled, and thus firmly bound together with custard
when cooked. As to the quantity of butter on the bread, that will
depend on taste. A little sherry sauce is an agreeable addition. The
character and flavour of this pudding may be varied in an agreeable
way by stewing a few raisins, sultanas, currants, prunes, or figs,
and inserting them between the bread and butter as above described.
It is better to stew these dried fruits for a pudding of this kind,
for all the boiling the pudding proper requires is 15-20 minutes, or
long enough to set the custard. A pudding made of similar materials,
in a flat pan and baked in a slow oven, is equally good, and affords
another agreeable variation. In seasons when eggs are scarce, a large
tablespoonful of cornflour may be put to ¼ pint milk, or rather
less, according to the quantity of bread used; and if this be whipped
up with one egg, it will be sufficient to stiffen a pint pudding,
so that it will stand firmly on the dish. For a boiled pudding the
top should be well covered with the custard, as this will soon set,
and thereby prevent the steam in the boiling pan from making the
top layer of bread too sopped. In Worcestershire--whence it derives
its name--it is generally made with cranberries. But gooseberries,
currants, raspberries, strawberries, and so on, are equally suitable
fruit for it.
_Manchester Pudding._--This is a variety of the well-known Bakewell
pudding, the difference consisting in the addition of milk and
breadcrumbs to the cheesecake mixture, namely, butter, yolks of eggs,
sugar, lemon juice and peel beaten to a cream, which in the Bakewell
pudding is laid over the layer of jam. Alexandra pudding and Durham
pudding are synonyms of the variety of Bakewell pudding known as
Manchester. There is another kind of pudding, also called Manchester,
which consists of breadcrumbs, milk, lemon rind, butter and sugar
boiled together, eggs being added when cold, and the mixture baked
in small shapes, and served with a morsel of jam on each, and with
cinnamon sauce. (The G. C.)
_Maraschino Jelly._--Take 2 calves’ feet, chop them into convenient
pieces, and put them into a saucepan with rather more than 2 qt. cold
water; set the saucepan on the fire; directly the water boils throw
it away, and wash the pieces of feet carefully; then put them on
again with 2 qt. cold water, and let them boil slowly for 3 hours,
removing the scum carefully during the process; then strain the
liquor into a basin, and when quite cold and set take off all the
fat, and wash the top of the jelly with a little hot water, so as to
get rid of every vestige of fat. Put the jelly into a saucepan on
the fire; directly it is melted add sugar to taste, the juice and
the thin rind of one lemon, and the whites of 3 eggs whisked to a
froth. Beat up the mixture till it boils. Place the thin rind of a
lemon at the bottom of a jelly bag, and pour the mixture over it.
The bag should have been previously rinsed in boiling water, and the
first ½ pint jelly that comes through must be returned to the bag. If
the jelly does not come out quite clear, the operation of straining
must be repeated. Add sufficient maraschino to flavour the jelly,
then pour it into a mould, and put it on ice to set. At the time of
serving dip the mould in warm water, and turn out the jelly.
_Margot Pudding._--Cut 3 slices bread (thickness of five-shilling
piece), spread lightly with butter and thickly with jam; lay the
slices one above another in a pudding dish; pour over a glass of
whisky or brandy, and when soaked in fill up with melted butter made
as follows: 2 oz. butter, 4 teaspoonfuls cornflour, 3 tablespoonfuls
sugar, 1 pint water, boil it, and pour over the bread, then bake till
the pudding is a nice brown.
_Marlborough Pudding._--(_a_) ¼ lb. butter, ¼ lb. sifted white sugar,
4 yolks of eggs well beaten; first put the sugar in a basin, then add
and stir in the eggs; flavour with vanilla, and bake ½ hour in a dish
lined with puff paste. The pudding is greatly improved if some of the
mixture is kept back, and, when all is ready, just warmed through and
poured round as a sauce.
(_b_) Cover a pie dish with a thin puff paste, then take 1 oz.
candied citron, 1 oz. of orange, and 1 oz. of lemon peel, sliced
very thin, and lay them over the bottom of the dish. Dissolve 6 oz.
butter without water, and add to it 6 oz. pounded sugar, the yolks of
4 well-beaten eggs. Stir them over the fire until the mixture boils,
then pour it over the sweetmeats, bake the pudding in a moderate oven
for ¾ hour, and serve it hot or cold.
_Marlborough Tart._--Line a tart tin with good puff paste, set in a
quick oven, and when half baked pour on the following mixture: 2 eggs
well beaten, 2 oz. sifted sugar, 4 oz. citron or candied peel cut
into strips, mix all together; finish the baking, and serve when cold.
_Marmalade Pudding._--(_a_) Baked.--1 large tablespoonful marmalade,
1 breakfast-cup fine breadcrumbs, ½ teacup castor sugar, 1 egg, ½
pint milk. Put a layer of marmalade at the bottom of a pie dish. Rub
some stale bread through a wire sieve until a breakfastcupful is
made, mix this with the sugar, and put it over the marmalade. Beat up
the egg, add to it the milk, pour this custard into the dish. Bake in
a very moderate oven 1-1½ hour. Should be a pale brown.
(_b_) Boiled.-½ lb. suet, ½ lb. breadcrumbs, ½ lb. brown sugar, 2
oz. ground rice, 2 tablespoonfuls marmalade, 2 eggs. Chop up the
suet (which should be dry beef suet) as finely as possible, make the
breadcrumbs by rubbing stale crumb of bread through a wire sieve,
beat up the eggs; mix all the ingredients well together in a large
basin; let the mixture stand overnight, if possible, before cooking;
well grease a pudding basin, fill it with the mixture (it should be
quite full), tie it over with a pudding cloth which should be dipped
into boiling water and floured well, tie the corners of the cloth
loosely over the top; put into a large saucepan of boiling water,
boil steadily for 4 hours.
_Meringues._--Whisk the whites of 12 eggs in a bowl until they take
the appearance of a white substantial smooth froth, looking almost
like snow. To obtain this, it is essential that the whisk and basin
be perfectly clean and dry, if in the slightest degree greasy the
eggs would not rise sufficiently. Lay aside the whisk, and with a
spoon mix in 1 lb. castor sugar; this must be done very lightly, if
worked too much it will lose its firmness, and it would be difficult
to form the meringues. Cut some stiff foolscap paper into strips,
about 2 in. wide, then take a tablespoon and gather it nearly full
of the batter, by pressing it up against the side of the basin, and
getting it as much as possible into the form of an egg; scoop this
off slantingly on to the froth, passing the spoon sharply round it
before leaving it, to make it smooth and round and quite like an egg.
Proceed in this way till all the froth is used up, and leaving a
space of about 2½ in. after each meringue. Place the bands of paper
containing them side by side on the table, and, when all are made,
shake some rather coarse-sifted sugar over them, and let them stand
for about 3 minutes. To bake meringues it will be necessary to have a
board made of well-seasoned wood, about 1 in. thick, to fit the oven.
On this place the paper bands of meringues, holding them at each end
of the paper, and giving each band a little shake before placing it
on the board, to get rid of the superfluous sugar; place the bands
close together, and put the board into an oven of very moderate heat,
to bake a light cream colour. When they are cooked remove them very
carefully from the paper, and with a silver dessertspoon scoop out
the soft white part from the inside. After this they must be put
back into the oven for a short time to dry; the oven must be quite
cool, and they must be watched to see that they do not become a
deeper colour; this should be done on a baking-sheet, on which they
should be carefully placed. If kept in a large covered glass jar in a
perfectly dry place, these meringues will keep good for a long time.
They must be quite cold before putting away. When required for table,
fill the insides with whipped cream, slightly sweetened and flavoured
with vanilla or any other flavouring preferred, or, better still,
with a dessertspoonful of cream-ice; join two of the shells together,
and dress them piled high in a glass or silver dish.
_Mince Pies._--(_a_) An excellent and useful mincemeat can be made
by the following recipe, especially in the country, where apples
are cheap. But, if they are too expensive, half the given quantity
can be used, and breadcrumbs substituted for the other half. Shred
½ lb. suet, roll it, a little at a time, on a board with 1 lb. raw
sugar, mix with it 1½ lb. apples, ½ lb. raisins, ½ lb. currants,
2 oz. candied peel, all minced, 1 teaspoonful ground ginger, 1 of
mixed spices, and the peel and juice of a lemon. Take care that
the ingredients are well mixed together, and, if possible, let the
mincemeat be prepared a few days before it is wanted for use. The
crust for the pies can be made in the same way as for steak pie, or
as follows: Rub ½ lb. lard into 1 lb. flour, make it into a paste
with 1 gill cold water. As this is a short crust, as little water as
possible should be used, and, if well worked up, the given quantity
will be sufficient. Put the paste on the board, roll it out once to
the required thickness, line greased saucers or patty-tins with it,
put in a liberal allowance of mincemeat, fit on a cover, and bake in
a slow oven for 40 minutes.
(_b_) Have ready some mincemeat made in the following way: 6 lb.
raisins, 6 lb. currants, 2 lb. dates, 2 lb. French plums, 6 lb.
apples, ½ lb. each candied citron, lemon and orange peel, 12 lemons,
6 sweet oranges, 6 lb. Demerara sugar, 1 teaspoonful each of mixed
spice and ground ginger, with 1 pint good brandy, 1 of Marsala, 1
of sherry, and a wineglass of noyeau or curaçao. Have the raisins,
dates, and plums carefully stoned, the candied peel cut into small
dice, the apples peeled, cored, and cut into small pieces. Mince
finely all the above with the pulp from the lemons and oranges. Well
clean and dry the currants, and add them, with the sugar and spices,
to the minced ingredients. The lemons and oranges must be grated to
obtain all the outside peel, the juice squeezed thoroughly from them,
and the pulp, before being minced, must be freed from all the pips
and white inner peel. Dissolve the hard sugar from the candied peel
in the orange and lemon juice, and add it, with the grated rind, to
the mincemeat. Mix all well together in a large pan, add the brandy,
liqueur, and wines. Press the mincemeat closely into stone jars,
after again thoroughly mixing it, and cover it closely. Keep it in a
cool, dry place. Should a mincing machine be used, the ingredients
for mincing should be mixed before putting them through it, except
the suet, which is always better chopped with an ordinary chopper.
(_c_) Butter slightly a number of patty-pans, take a piece of the
paste, roll it out to the thickness of ¼ in., and line the pans with
it. Put 1 wineglassful brandy into the mince, stir it well, and put a
small quantity of it into each pan; brush the paste round with white
of egg, and put on a cover of paste rolled out to about ⅓ in. thick.
Press the edges well together, brush the top with cold water, strew
finely powdered sugar over, and bake about ½ hour.
_Mocha Pudding._--Beat up the yolks of 4 eggs with ¼ lb. powdered
loaf sugar, add gradually 2 oz. flour and 2 oz. potato flour; lastly,
the whites of 4 eggs whipped to a stiff froth. When the whole is
well mixed, put it in a buttered plain mould and bake. Turn out the
cake when done, and when it is quite cold cover it evenly all over
with the following icing, ornamenting it with piping of the icing
pushed through a paper cone. This last operation must be done with
care, lest the heat of the hand warm the icing. When the cake is
finished it should be put in a cold place, or on ice, till the time
of serving. The Icing.--Take ½ lb. fresh butter and ¼ lb. powdered
loaf sugar, and beat them to a cream in a bowl, adding drop by drop,
during the process, ½ teacupful strongest coffee that can be made.
_Mousseline Pudding._--4 oz. pounded sugar, 4 oz. fresh butter, the
rind of 1 lemon and the juice of two, with the yolks of 10 eggs, to
be mixed together in a saucepan and stirred on a slow fire until
quite hot; then strain the mixture into a basin, and amalgamate
lightly with it, as you would for a soufflé, the whites of the eggs
whisked into a stiff froth. Pour into a well-buttered mould, and
steam for 20 minutes. Serve with jam or fruit sauce. The water should
boil when the pudding is put into steam, but on no account after.