bottled. If fresh fruit is used, it must be stewed with water and
sugar until it is about as much cooked as it would be in a fruit
pie. If bottled fruit is used, the syrup only should be boiled with
sugar, and the fruit simmered in it for a minute or two. Take some
stale bread, cut a round piece the size of half a crown, and lay it
at the bottom of a basin, and arrange around it strips or fingers of
bread about ½ in. wide, remembering to leave a space the width of
the finger between the strips. When the fruit is ready, and while it
is still hot, put it in, a spoonful at a time, so as not to displace
the bread, and, as a further means to this end, put the heavier part
of the fruit (the pulp and skin and stones, if there are any) at
the bottom of the mould, and the juice last of all. Cover the top
entirely with stale bread, cut into very small dice; lay a plate on
the pudding, put a weight on the plate, preserving the juice that
rises above the plate, and set the pudding in a cool place till
wanted. If it is well pressed down it will turn out in a shape,
and will be found an excellent pudding. This dish is served at the
hydropathic establishments as a substitute for fruit pies and tarts,
as pastry is not considered wholesome. In cold weather it will turn
out if it is made 3-4 hours before it is wanted; but in warm weather
it will need to be made overnight.
_Fruit Tart._--Stone some cherries, greengages, or plums, and stew
them for 1 hour with plenty of sugar and ½ tumblerful water. Make
a short paste with the white of 1 and the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 oz.
butter, 1 oz. sugar, a pinch of salt, a little water and sufficient
flour. Roll it out to the thickness of a penny piece, line a mould
with it, uniting the joins with white of egg, fill it with rice and
bake it. When done remove the rice, put in the stewed fruit, and
serve.
_Fruit Trifle._--Any kind, or 2 or 3 kinds of fruit, will do for
this dish. You can put at the bottom of the dish a layer of fresh
raspberries, then a few slices of stale sponge cake, soaked in
wine, would be an improvement, but the wine may be omitted; then a
layer of stewed red currants, then a few ratafias, now a few stewed
cherries, and over these a little boiled custard, and on top of this,
if convenient, a whip of cream in form of a pyramid, and over this
a few hundreds-and-thousands--a tiny comfit, of various colours,
sold by confectioners. In country establishments it is not difficult
to get variety of fruit, and cream is generally in the house, or
can easily be got. It is an improvement to many dishes, but when it
cannot be had the custard alone will do. The top can be ornamented
with almonds, blanched and cut into spikes, or with candied peel
stamped out with a tin cutter in leaves or any other design, or the
hundreds-and-thousands strewed over.
_Frying Batter._--Beat up together 2 tablespoonfuls brandy, the yolks
of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful olive oil, and 4 or 5 tablespoonfuls cold
water. Amalgamate with this 3 tablespoonfuls of fine flour, and a
good pinch of salt. Beat the mixture 5-10 minutes, adding a little
more water if too thick. When ready to use it, stir into it lightly
and quickly the whites of 2 eggs whisked to a froth.
_Furmity._--Old housed dry wheat will not suit for this, it must be
new wheat, grown and threshed that summer, and the newer the wheat
the better the furmity. Take about 2 large tablespoonfuls wheat to
each basinful milk, and in an iron saucepan boil the same till
the wheat is tender. Mix 1 tablespoonful flour with a little cold
milk, add that, together with a morsel of salt, a little sugar, and
allspice, to the wheat; stir the pan till it boils again, when it
is ready. The quantity of allspice, sugar, and flour, to decide the
thickness of the furmity, depends on taste.
_Garibaldi Cream._--Make a cream with 1 qt. milk, 9 sheets best
French gelatine, sugar to taste, and the yolks of 8 eggs. Flavour it
with any essence you like, strain it, and divide it into 3 basins.
Colour the first a deep red with cochineal, the second green with
spinach greening, and leave the third its original colour. These
operations must be done while the cream is still warm, and it must be
kept so in a bain-marie during the following process. Lay a shape in
water or on ice, pour some of the red cream into it, to the thickness
of less than ½ in. When this is set, pour in a similar layer of the
plain cream, and when this is set pour in a layer of the green cream.
Go on pouring in layers in the same way, until the mould is filled.
When the cream is quite set turn it out and serve. Care must be
taken, in pouring in each kind of cream, to get each layer the same
thickness. This is best done by measuring with water how much liquid
will go to make a layer of the required thickness, and then getting a
cup which holds just that quantity, and using it to measure the cream.
_Génoise Pastry._--Take ¼ lb. freshest butter, put it in a bowl, and
warm it until it can be beaten with a spoon; add to it 4 oz. powdered
loaf sugar, and beat the two together until a smooth white cream is
obtained, then add one egg, and keep on beating the mixture till it
is smooth again, then add 3 more eggs in the same manner. The germ of
the eggs should be removed. Lastly, incorporate quickly ¼ lb. fine
flour with the mixture, and as soon as it is smooth, pour it out to
the thickness of ½ in. on a buttered flat tin, which must be put
into the oven at once. When done (in about 10-15 minutes) turn out
the slab of Génoise, and put it to cool, under side uppermost, on a
sieve. There is a great knack in beating this pasting to prevent its
curdling. Should this happen, it can generally be remedied by beating
as quickly as possible until the mixture is smooth again. Take a slab
of Génoise, spread on the top of it the thinnest possible coating of
apricot jam, then a coating of chocolate icing. Put it into a very
hot oven for rather less than a minute, take it out, and place it in
a cold place to get cool. Then cut it up with a sharp knife in any
shapes liked.
_Gingerbread Pudding._--2 oz. lard or butter, 2 tablespoons brown
sugar, 2 ditto golden syrup, 1 egg, 1 teacupful milk, 1 teaspoonful
ground ginger, 8 oz. flour, 1 teaspoonful baking powder. Work the
butter and sugar together, then add the egg beat well, now add
treacle and milk, then the flour and baking powder.
_Ginger Cream._--Dissolve ¼ oz. isinglass, whip up 1 pint cream until
it is quite thick, then add ½ pint ginger syrup. Cut up the preserved
ginger into very small dice, and stir it well into the cream; add the
isinglass and stir it well. Pour it into a mould and let it stand
until wanted, then turn it out as you would a jelly.
_Ginger Pudding._--Take the weight of 4 eggs in sifted sugar,
butter, and fine flour; beat the butter to a cream, stir to it the
sugar, add ½ teaspoonful ground ginger (more if a strong flavour is
wanted); beat the eggs, white and yolks together, for at least ¼
hour; add these to the other ingredients, together with the flour,
very gradually, beating the mixture well with a fork or wooden spoon
all the time. When thoroughly mixed, well grease a fluted tin mould;
put in the mixture and bake ¾ hour. This pudding eats well cold, but
for a second serving it may be cut into slices, and each slice to be
again cut with a fluted tin biscuit cutter, then fried lightly in
butter, served up in a pile, with sifted sugar over, and eaten with a
wine sauce. (Bessie Tremaine.)
_Gooseberry Cheese._--Take 6 lb. unripe rough gooseberries (green
hairy ones are best), cut off blossoms and stems, put them in water
for 1-2 hours, then take and bruise them in a marble mortar, and put
them into a brass pan over a clear fire, stirring them until tender,
then add 4½ lb. lump sugar, pounded, and boil till very thick and of
a fine green colour, stirring all the time.
_Gooseberry Cream._--Soak ½ oz. gelatine in ½ pint milk, when soaked,
add to it 1 pint cream and ¼ lb. lump sugar, set on the stove,
stirring occasionally, when nearly boiling take from the fire and mix
with it 1 pint green gooseberries that have been previously boiled
in an enamelled stewpan, with a little sugar and a little thin lemon
rind, and then pass through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon, colour
with a little spinach greening, and set away to cool; when nearly
set, whip up and put into a mould, and set aside till wanted; to
make the greening, mash a handful of spinach, pound in a mortar, and
squeeze through a clean cloth, add a little of this to the cream;
before it sets it will give it a pretty delicate shade. Note.--Fruit
should always be cooked in an enamelled stewpan or in earthenware, as
copper is likely to spoil it.
_Gooseberry Fool._--Pick 1 qt. quite young gooseberries and put them
in a jar with a very little water and plenty of sugar. Put the jar
in a saucepan of boiling water till the fruit be quite tender, beat
it through a colander, and then add gradually 1 pint cream with
sufficient sugar to sweeten; garnish the dish with macaroons or
ratafias.
_Gooseberry Pancakes._--Melt some fresh butter in a frying-pan, put
in 1 qt. gooseberries, fry them till tender and mash them; beat 6
yolks of eggs and three whites, sugar to taste, 4 spoonfuls cream, 4
large spoonfuls breadcrumbs, and 8 spoonfuls flour; mix all together,
then put to them the cooked green gooseberries and set them in a
saucepan on the fire to thicken; fry in fresh butter, and sift sugar
over.
_Gooseberry Pudding._--The following pudding is better when made
with red currants and raspberries, or even with black currants. Stew
some fruit with sugar till thoroughly done, pour off all the juice,
and put the fruit while hot into a pudding basin, which has been
previously lined with slices of bread made to fit exactly. Fill the
basin up with the fruit, and cover it over with a slice of bread;
let it stand till quite cold, with a plate on it. Boil up the juice
which was poured off, with a little more sugar, and let that get
cold. When served, the pudding must be turned out on a dish, and the
juice poured all over it so as to colour the bread thoroughly. A rich
custard or some cream is a great improvement.
_Gooseberry Tart._--Make a short paste with 4 oz. flour, 3 oz.
butter, 2 oz. sugar, the yolks of 3 eggs, a little water, and a pinch
of salt. Work it smoothly and roll it out to the thickness of rather
more than ⅛ in. Place a “flan” ring on a baking sheet, lay the sheet
of paste over it, and with the fingers fit it carefully inside the
ring, then cut off all the part that is above the ring, fill the
shape with uncooked rice, and bake for ½ hour in a moderate oven;
then take out all the rice, and put in its place a compote made as
follows: pick a quantity of gooseberries, put them in a saucepan with
plenty of loaf sugar and a little cold water; when they come to the
boil drain them off from the syrup; let this boil for 10 minutes,
then return the gooseberries to it.
_Gooseberry Toast._--1 pint green gooseberries; clean them thoroughly
from stems and dried blossoms; then toast to a bright brown as many
slices of stale bread as will make 3 layers for a quart pie-dish. Dip
each piece of toast in milk, sprinkle the upper surface with white
powdered sugar, having your berries stewed 10 minutes, so that none
of them shall be broken. Cover one slice of toast with them; the
berries are to be covered with another slice, and thus proceed for
each layer. The whole to be placed in a moderately hot oven for ¼
hour before sending to table.
_Greengage Soufflé._--Boil some greengages with sugar; when done
pass through a sieve. Mix 1 gill milk with 1 tablespoonful potato
flour, and stir over the fire till it thickens. When cold work into
it the yolks of 4 eggs and as much of the greengage jam (about 4
tablespoonfuls) as will make the mixture of the proper consistency.
The whole must be thoroughly well mixed. Lastly, mix in quickly and
effectually the whites of 6 eggs, beaten up to a stiff froth; pour
the mixture in a plain mould, put it into the oven at once, and serve
as soon as it has well risen.
_Greengage Tart._--Make a short paste with 1 white and 3 yolks of
egg. 1 oz. sugar, 1 oz. butter, a small pinch of salt, and sufficient
flour. Work it lightly, and roll it out to the thickness of ¼ inch.
Line a flat mould with this paste, uniting the joints carefully with
white of egg, fill it with uncooked rice, and bake it. When done,
remove the rice, and put in greengages treated as follows: Stone the
fruit, and cut them in halves, and stew it for 1 hour with plenty of
powdered loaf sugar and a little water, adding at the last a liqueur
glass of pale brandy. To be served hot or cold.
_Groat Pudding._--Take 1 breakfastcupful groats, let them soak for
some hours, pick them carefully from the husks, tie them loosely in
a cloth, and boil for 3 hours; then untie the cloth, and add a few
currants and a little raw sugar, tie them up again quite tightly, and
boil for another hour.
_Ground Rice Pudding._--(_a_) 2 oz. ground rice, 1 oz. sugar, 1 oz.
butter, and 1 pint new milk. Boil 15-20 minutes, pour into a buttered
mould; when cold, turn out and serve.
(_b_) ¼ lb. ground rice, swell it in 1 good pint milk, 6 oz. castor
sugar, 4 oz. butter oiled, 4 eggs, rind of a lemon grated, a few
sweet almonds pounded. Put in a buttered dish with paste round the
edge. The butter to be added last thing.
_Gruel._--(_a_) Groat.--Boil ½ lb. groats in 2 qt. water, with a
blade of mace; when the groats are soft, put in white wine and sugar
to taste. Serve in a china bowl with toast.
(_b_) Sago.--4 oz. sago scalded in hot water, then strained through a
hair sieve, and set over the fire with 2 qt water. It is to be boiled
and skimmed till thick and clear, then 1 pint red wine, and sugar to
taste is to be added, when it is served in a tureen, with a slice of
lemon and dry biscuits.
(_c_) Barley.--Made in the same way, but with the addition of 3 oz.
currants, which would seem rather an unpalatable mixture to our
modern notions.
(_d_) Water.--1 tablespoonful oatmeal is to be boiled in 3 pints
water till it is perfectly fine and smooth; if it shows signs of
becoming too thick for drinking, more water is to be added. When
taken from the fire, it must stand to cool; then white wine, sugar,
and nutmeg to taste is to be added. This would seem an exceedingly
palatable drink; and, if lemon juice were substituted for the wine, a
simple and inexpensive one. (Bessie Tremaine.)
_Hasty Pudding._--Put 1 pint milk into a perfectly clean quart
stewpan, with 5 or 6 bay leaves; have ready on the hob a basin of
flour; as soon as the milk boils remove the bay leaves, take some
flour in the left hand and let it fall lightly into the milk (which
must be kept boiling fast the whole time), stir without ceasing,
adding flour until it is about the consistency of porridge, then let
it boil a few minutes longer, still keeping it stirred. Turn it out
on a hot dish, stick pieces of butter all over it, sprinkle moist
sugar, and grate some nutmeg, when the butter and sugar will melt
and mingle, and, running all over and round it, form a delicious
sauce. Do not be too sparing of butter and sugar, and the cook need
not be discouraged if she does not succeed in her first attempt, as
experience alone can teach her how to sprinkle the flour in properly.
If it is not done very lightly, lumps of uncooked flour will be the
result.
_Hominy and Samp._--(_a_) Hominy is white Indian corn, divested of
its outer skin by scalding in hot lye, and then winnowed and dried.
Samp is hominy, pounded till it is about as fine as coarse oatmeal.
To cook hominy, wash it through 2 or 3 waters, pour boiling water
on it, and let it soak for at least 10 hours; then put it into a
stewpan, allowing 2 qt. water to 1 qt. hominy, and boil it slowly 4-5
hours, or until it is perfectly tender; then drain it, put it into
a deep dish, add salt and a bit of butter, and serve as a vegetable
with meat. Samp is cooked in the same way, but rather less water is
used; for instance, put 1½ pint to 1 qt. samp. It is also good cut
when cold into slices, and fried for breakfast.
(_b_) Baked.--To 1 cupful cold boiled hominy, allow 2 cupfuls milk, 1
heaped teaspoonful butter, 1 teaspoonful sugar, a little salt, and 3
eggs. Beat the yolks and whites separately. Mix the yolks first into
the hominy alternately with the melted butter, then the sugar and
salt, and mix in the milk gradually, being careful to leave no lumps
in the hominy. Lastly, stir in the whites of the eggs, and bake in a
buttered pudding dish until delicately browned.
(_c_) Boiled.--Soak 1 pint hominy in 2½ pints boiling water over
night. In the morning add 1 pint sweet milk, and let it boil ½ hour
over a brisk fire; add a small piece of butter, salt, and pepper. It
should be as soft as mush, and is generally eaten for breakfast with
cream and sugar.
(_d_) Fried.--Cut the cold boiled hominy in slices, and fry in hot
lard or dripping, or moisten to a soft paste with milk; beat in some
melted butter; bind with a beaten egg; form into round cakes with
your hands; dredge with flour, and fry a light brown.
_Ice Puddings._--These puddings are made in as great variety as ices
themselves, the difference in them being chiefly in flavouring. The
great secret of securing their perfection is to ice the material to
22° F. before putting it into the pudding mould. For ice puddings,
and indeed for every kind of ice which, after being made, requires to
be embedded in freezing mixture, it is absolutely necessary to have
moulds suitable for the purpose, with closely-fitting lids. Possessed
of these, an ordinary cook should have no difficulty in serving ice
puddings, as they are made long before the busy time of sending
up dinner; but without suitable utensils it is much better not to
attempt making these puddings. Take 1½ pint clarified syrup and the
strained juice of 3 lemons. Put the mixture in the freezing-pot,
and when nearly frozen add essence of citron to taste, and 1 oz.
pistachio nuts blanched, and split in half lengthwise; finish
freezing, put into a mould, and lay it on ice till wanted.
_Ice Soufflé._--Clarify some sugar by mixing a good teaspoonful of
white of egg, previously well beaten, with 1 pint water; put this
into a very clean stewpan, add 1 lb. sifted white sugar and boil
together over a slow fire, carefully taking off the scum as it rises
until none remains; then strain it through a fine clean cloth, when
it should be clear. Take ½ pint of this clarified syrup with the
yolks of 6 eggs, 1 whole egg, and ½ port-wine glassful of maraschino;
stir them together, and then pour them into a pudding basin which has
been warmed by having hot water in it, taking care that it is quite
dry again before using. Set this on a stove of hot ashes, and begin
whisking the mixture briskly, continuing to do so until it attains
the consistency of a smooth light batter. Tie or otherwise fix a
band of double paper round the lining of a soufflé dish, so that it
stands 2 in. higher; fill this with the preparation to within ½ in.
of the edge of the paper. It will be necessary to have a circular
tin box, with a closely fitting lid, large enough to contain the
soufflé, which must now be put into it; put on the lid, and plunge it
into a pailful of crushed ice, with which has been mixed some salt
and saltpetre (about ¼ lb. each mixed together); cover the pail with
a piece of coarse wet flannel, and let it so remain in the ice for
about 3 hours, or until it is time to send it to table; then remove
the paper, and sift over it either a little grated chocolate, or
some macaroon biscuit powder, which will just give it the appearance
of having been baked. Any other flavouring may be used instead of
the maraschino, if preferred, using some other liqueur, or vanilla,
lemon, orange, &c.; or a small cupful of very strong coffee made in
the usual way, may be substituted if a soufflé au café is desired.
_Jamaica Jelly._--Boil to a clear jelly 1 lb. sugar, mix with 2 oz.
clarified isinglass and 1 wineglassful Jamaica rum. Damp a mould, and
pour the jelly in, let it cool, and turn out. Ornament with clotted
cream and small clusters of purple grapes.
_Jam Pudding._--Take equal quantities fine flour and suet, remove all
skin from the suet, slice it very thin, and then chop it quite fine,
mix together, and moisten with cold water; add a very little salt,
knead it well, and roll it out quite thin (about ⅙ in.). Spread the
paste equally over with any kind of jam to within ½ in. of the edge,
moisten the edges with water, roll up the pudding, pinch the edges
together; put it into a cloth, which must be tied at both ends. Put
the pudding into boiling water, and boil about 2 hours.
_Jam Roll._-½ lb. butter must be stirred to a cream, then the yolks
of 12 eggs added, and ½ lemon peel grated. Add by degrees ½ lb.
sifted sugar, ¼ lb. fine flour, and the same of potato flour, or,
if preferred, the whole ½ lb. may be of the former. When these are
well mixed add the egg whites whipped to a snow. Thoroughly stir all
together. Make 4 or 5 white paper plates by stretching the paper
over any round utensil (a large dinner plate will do), plait up an
edge 1 in. deep, and tack it round with a needle and thread to keep
it upright. Butter these paper plates, and lay them on baking tins.
Spread over each a layer of the above mixture not thicker than a
thin pancake. Bake them in a moderate oven a nice yellow, but do not
let them tinge brown. When cold cut away the paper round, turn the
cakes over, and peel off the bottom paper, but take great care not to
break the cakes. Lay one cake over the other, with preserve between
each, till all are piled up. It may be all of one sort of preserve,
or varied, one layer of marmalade if liked. Dissolve powdered sugar
with a little lemon juice. Spread it thickly over the top and sides
of the cake to make a glazing. Put it in a cool oven to dry, or it
may simply be pared smoothly all round, and strewn thickly with
sifted sugar. If required as a roll, the cake mixture must be poured
into a large flat baking tin as thin as before, and when of a nice
yellow colour take it out of the oven, quickly turn it out on to a
flat board, and while still hot spread it over with preserve, but
not too near the edges. It must then be quickly rolled, beginning
at the edge next you, and then left to cool before being cut. Great
care is required to do the rolling of the pastry, but practice and
perseverance will soon overcome the difficulty. Before leaving to
cool, sprinkle it thickly with sugar as before.
_Jam Tartlets._--Take some puff paste, roll it out ½ in. thick, and
line some patty-pans with it. Cut some rounds out of the bottom of a
stale loaf 1 in. diameter less than the patty-pans, put one in each
pan exactly in the middle, and press it down; bake in a quick oven
until the paste has well risen--about 15 minutes. Remove the pieces
of bread, and fill each tartlet with either apricot, strawberry, or
currant and raspberry jam.
_Jelly Baskets._--Orange skins can be emptied of their fruit and
cut out in the shape of baskets, as follows: Mark out the shape of
a basket upon the skin of 6-8 oranges without piercing the fruit.
The handles should be formed across the stalk end of the fruit, and
should be a good width. Take out the quarters which will not be
required, and with the small blade of a sharp penknife cut out the
baskets. Then pass the flat part of a teaspoon carefully under the
handle to separate it from the fruit, and scoop out the remainder of
the pulp, which easily comes out through the open spaces. Fill the
skins with different-coloured jellies. The baskets may be scalloped
or ornamented, according to the taste of the operator.
_Jelly Pie._--Boil 5 eggs hard; when cold, cut them in slices and put
them closely round a pie dish, with sweet herbs chopped very fine,
and scalded and put in small heaps. Fill the dish with ham, fowl,
veal, or any other meat cut in very thin slices; make a very rich
gravy the previous day, which will be a firm jelly when cold. Fill up
the dish with it, and bake for ½ hour. When required to be used cold,
turn it out, and garnish.
_Jersey Wonders._--1 lb. flour, 3 oz. butter, 3 oz. white sugar, a
little nutmeg, ground ginger, and lemon peel; beat 4 eggs and knead
all well together; a taste of brandy will be an improvement. Roll
them 3 in. thick, cut off a small slice and roll into an oval, not
too thin; cut two slits in it, but not through either end; pass the
left hand through the aperture to the right, and throw into boiling
fat. A brass or metal skillet is best to cook them in; about 5
minutes to cook them, turn once.
_Jumbles._--(_a_) ½ lb. flour, ½ lb. sugar, 6 oz. butter, 1 oz. sweet
almonds, 1 oz. bitter almonds, 1 egg. Mix these well, drop in small
lumps on a tin and bake for a few minutes in a hot oven.