The dampers are metal plates which slide through suitable slots into

the flues that are carried up the back of the range, they have knobs

or handles in front by which they are pushed in or drawn out as

desired. When drawn fully out, they leave the flue clear and do not

obstruct the draught; when pushed quite in, they close the flue and

stop the draught. They can be put in any intermediate position; their

object is to regulate the draught to the requirements; by regulating

the draught the heat and the consumption of fuel are regulated also,

and by means of the dampers the heat can be closed off or put on to

the oven, or boiler, &c., as desired. It is to the mismanagement of

these dampers that the extravagance in many instances is due; if

the draught is good, they should never be pulled out fully, as this

will cause the fire to “roar;” they should be pushed in (both for

ovens and boilers) until a murmuring sound is heard; this is the

correct speed for all purposes in general. It cannot be too strongly

impressed upon housewives that a “roaring” fire gives really _less_

result than a steadily burning one as described. Too fierce a fire

has other serious results, viz., undue wear and tear to the range,

overheating the kitchen, increased labour in attention and stoking,

and the probability of the ovens, &c., becoming too hot; in fact

general inconvenience is experienced by this, irrespective of the

great waste of fuel.

A good feature in a close-fire range is a means of making an open

fire when no cooking or work is required to be done between meals,

and in the evening.

An open fire is very slow burning as it is not affected by the

draught; it will burn 2 hours without attention, and is thus very

economical, saves labour, and if desired the cook can leave the

kitchen for a considerable time without anxiety as to whether the

fire wants replenishing. The closed fire is decidedly the best form

for cooking purposes, but when no cooking is required it must be

attended to frequently or be permitted to go out. An open fire is

also a ventilator, is cheerful for those in the kitchen, and if a

good fire is left open at night, the boiler will be found to contain

fairly warm, if not hot water in the morning.

Ovens should always be provided with 2 ventilators, viz., an inlet

and an outlet; there are very many ovens with even modern ranges that

are only fitted with one ventilator, but a moment’s consideration

will show that one ventilator is useless, as you cannot get air to

pass out of an oven unless there is a means for a corresponding

volume of air to pass in to replace it, and _vice versâ_, and means

should be provided to warm the air as it passes in, for reasons that

are obvious. The use of the ventilators is to take off the excess

heat, the steam, smells of cooking, &c., from the oven (the outlet

ventilator opening into the flue), and by use of the ventilators meat

can be either roasted or baked in an oven, the distinction between

roasting and baking being that to roast meat the air must have free

access to the joint by opening the vents, whereas in baking meat the

vents are closed and the meat is cooked in its own vapour, &c.

The former method has the greatest number of advocates, as the

results are the same as if it was roasted in front of the fire,

_provided it has the same attention in basting, &c._ It may be here

mentioned that in oven-roasting, a water-pan should be used, as it

prevents the oven becoming foul by the burning and splashing of fat,

and has other advantages; this pan really consists of 2 pans, one

fitting within the other, a space of about ½ in. existing between,

and a properly constructed meat-stand fitting into the upper one. The

joint is put in position on the stand, and the whole is placed in the

oven, _after_ which the space between the two is filled with water

through an aperture provided for the purpose. These pans are very

satisfactory in use, and are now in general favour.

The cleaning of flues should be done once weekly, if the chimney

has a good draught, or with hard fuel this time may be exceeded;

but it is desirable to say once weekly, as it is then done at

regular periods on a certain day; with a very sluggish draught it is

sometimes found necessary to clean them a little oftener, as the soot

is then nearly all deposited in the flues, and as the fire is longer

in becoming bright, more soot is naturally formed (with a bright

fire scarcely a particle of soot is formed, the combustion being

nearly perfect). The correct method to clean the flues of a kitchen

(close fire) range is as follows:--First remove all small flue-doors,

loose covers, &c., then draw out the dampers to their full extent,

take the flue-brush and pass it first up and then down the flues that

are carried up the back of the range, inserting the brush through the

openings that are provided just below the dampers; then brush the

soot from the tops of the ovens down the flues at the sides; brush

down these side flues; and lastly carefully scrape and brush out

all the soot that has now accumulated in the flues under the ovens.

But it must not be forgotten that the _bottom_ of the oven requires

well brushing; this is often omitted, yet it is most important, as

in many instances, as before explained, the utmost heat is needed

at the bottom, and if it is coated with soot very little heat will

pass through, as soot is a fairly good non-conductor of heat. After

cleaning the flues, carefully replace all doors, covers, &c.; it

cannot too strongly be impressed upon housewives that no opening

must be left for the air to pass in, except first passing _through_

the fire. Soot in flues produces two different ill effects, viz.,

reducing the draught by choking the flues, and preventing the heat

coming in proper contact with the oven, as it is a very bad conductor.

The flue-brush for the average of flues should be about 4 in. in

diameter at the hair, with a 3 ft. 6 in. or 4 ft. wire handle.

Chimneys do not require sweeping nearly so often with close ranges as

with open. With an entirely closed range it will with proper care go

about 10 to 12 months; with a close range that can be opened (when

not cooking) about 7-9 months, varying with different coals, &c. The

management of a close-fire range has now been nearly all explained;

it may be summed up as follows. At first lighting (after clearing

the fire-box of ash, &c., in the usual way), draw out all dampness

until the fire is established, after which push in dampers to a more

or less extent according to draught. Never permit the fire to make

a roaring noise, whether for oven or boiler. If the range has a

high-pressure boiler, direct the heat to this until the water is hot,

or until the range is required in preparing breakfast. After this

meal, the dampers must be pushed in as far as possible to slacken the

fire down until it is required for the midday meal (unless the range

is required for any other purpose between these times), and the same

follows after this meal. There are, however, very many residences

where cooking, to a more or less extent is going on all day, in which

case the regulation of the dampers must be left to the discretion

of the cook. Thoroughly clean the flues _at regular periods_; if a

high-pressure boiler exists, clear the flue under it of cinders,

&c., every morning. Thoroughly clean inside the ovens and the oven

shelves of any grease, &c., as this is the very general cause of

unpleasant smells that pervade the house. When cooking, keep the

fire-box well filled with fuel, by feeding it moderately often but in

small quantities, as the fire must not be permitted to get low. Do

not permit the hot plate to become red-hot; should it do so, push in

dampers to decrease the draught, as the fire is burning too fiercely.

Want of draught, which sometimes occurs, and causes an utter failure

of the range is due to several causes, the chief of which are:--(_a_)

Other flues running into the kitchen chimney, generally a copper

flue, not provided with a damper to close it when not in use. (_b_)

Leakage of air into the flues through some aperture, commonly around

the range, caused by imperfect or hurried setting. This can be

discovered by holding the flame of a candle near any likely spot,

when the flame will be drawn through if any leakage exists. (_c_)

Insufficient height of chimney; about 20 ft. is sufficient for say

a 4 ft. range, but the chimney top must be as high as any adjacent

building, or impeded or down draught will occur. Suburban villas,

&c., are frequently designed with the kitchen situated at the

back, in an addition to the main building, this addition generally

being lower, in which case, if the chimney is not carried up to

the necessary height great inconvenience and annoyance will ensue.

Impeded or down draught is sometimes caused by high trees being

situated near the chimney. (_d_) Sooty flues, through want of

regular cleaning, or failing to put one of the flue doors in position

after cleaning.

The use of the door in the top covering-in plate of the range is,

by partially opening it, to take off the objectionable smell when

frying, &c.; to reduce the draught to the whole of the range; and for

the sweep to operate through when sweeping the chimney.

When a range is newly fixed, it will not give its best results until

it has had good use for 6-8 days, as everything around it, the

brickwork, &c., is damp and cold. They will sometimes smoke at first

lighting, and as ranges differ considerably, a new range requires

a certain amount of getting used to. When a range is newly set,

the workmen should, before leaving, clear the flues, but this is

sometimes neglected, and careless workmen have been known to leave

even their tools in the flues.

In instances where a strong draught exists, and the servants cannot

be depended upon to regulate the dampers or open the door at top

to decrease it, an excellent method is to cut a hole into the flue

through the chimney breast above the mantelpiece and there insert

a ventilator, but it must be a self-acting one. Arnott’s patent is

the best suited for this purpose, as it can be set to a nicety, so

that, when the draught is excessive, the valve opens and the chimney

gets part of its air, without affecting the fire; this reduces the

draught, and then the valve partially or wholly closes, and so it

continues. The results are similar to those ensured by the governor

on a steam engine, viz., giving uniform regularity to the work.

Fuels.--The ordinary coals of commerce, such as Wallsend, Silkstone,

Derby Main, &c., &c., although in general use, are not best adapted

for close-fire ranges, which are really furnaces on a small scale,

and should be treated as such. Coals such as the above are too highly

charged with bitumen (tar), the major portion of which distils off

as smoke, fouling the flue, and, as every particle of smoke is

unconsumed fuel, there is considerable waste. These coals have also

too great a proportion of hydrogen (producing flame) for furnace

purposes, as combustion is so rapid; it will be noticed that when

burning these soft bituminous coals, upon feeding the fire, volumes

of smoke are first given off, after which the fuel fuses into a soft

and sometimes sticky mass: this then flames violently for a short

period, after which it is time to replenish the fire again. It must

not, however, be concluded that fuels entirely free from hydrogen,

such as anthracite, coke, charcoal, &c., are well suited for this

work, as a fuel free of hydrogen gas burns without flame, and it is

found desirable to have some flame, for the heat has to travel some 6

ft. (3 sides of the oven) before its work is performed. It is found

that coke and anthracite give an intense local heat (i.e. immediately

in or near the fire); but this has an ill effect with the Leamington

oven, as making the top of the oven of so much higher a temperature

than the bottom, which is fatal to pastry. Where, however, other

fuels are not conveniently attainable, coke and anthracite can be

used; but the results are not so satisfactory. Coke is almost always

used on yachts, so that the sails, decks, &c., may be spotless; but a

yacht range is of special make.

Coke, broken to the size of a large walnut, and ordinary coal, mixed

in about equal proportions, is found very satisfactory; but the best

fuel for close-fire (or the convertible close or open fire) ranges is

what is commonly known as hard steam coal; this is not the technical

appellation for it, but it is generally recognised by this name, and

any good firm of coal merchants stock it, as it is much used for

small furnace work. This coal has several advantages, viz., low price

(about 16_s._ to 19_s._ per ton), much less smoke and soot, more

intense heat evolved, and greater length of time in consumption. This

is a coal bordering upon anthracite in its nature and composition,

but has a moderate percentage of hydrogen; care must be exercised

to see that the correct coal is obtained, as should a coal merchant

not keep it, he might consider that the low price was the chief

consideration and would send a cheap soft coal, which is very

unsuitable. This coal has one disadvantage, which is that it cannot

be burned in the ordinary open grates unless the grate is provided

with a blower, or some means of causing a draught to pass through the

fire at first lighting or when heavily fed; it is therefore necessary

to have convenience for keeping two sorts of coal.

The best size of coal for these ranges is “nuts,” this is a size that

will pass through a 2 in. hole (in a coal sieve) and not through a

1 in. hole. “Cobbles,” which is a 4 in. coal, is too large for this

work. It is commonly understood that “nuts” and “cobbles” indicate

certain qualities of coal, but it is not so, they denote size only.

The kitchen range should be made to burn all the rubbish of the

kitchen, provided it is combustible at all; but this should be done

when the cooking of the day is finished.

The following are some ranges of modern and reliable make which have

withstood the criticism of the public and the trade, and are all

having a fair share of favour.

[Illustration]

_The “National” Patent Open and Close Fire Kitchener_ (GEORGE WRIGHT

& SONS, 113 Queen Victoria Street, E.C.). This method of converting

from a close to an open fire, or _vice versâ_, is a great improvement

on the ordinary arrangements for this purpose owing to its extreme

simplicity, one movement only being required to effect the change,

as will be seen by reference to the sectional diagrams, Figs. 70,

71. The well-known “Eagle” Patent Adjustable Bottom Grate, for

regulating the fire, made under licence from the original patentees,

being adapted to this range in combination with the above patent,

establishes it as one of the most efficient and at the same time most

economical ranges in the market, the slight extra initial cost of

the range over that of an ordinary range being very soon covered by

the great saving in fuel. Our illustration shows a high class range,

but the same principles can be adapted to ranges of the cheaper

class, though we do not advocate cheap ranges. Of all the fittings

in a house, the kitchen range should be the first consideration,

as so much of the comfort of a tenant depends upon its quality and

efficiency. We cannot too highly recommend this range to the notice

of our readers. _See advertisement in front of title page._

[Illustration: Fig. 70. Fig. 71.]

Fig. 70 is a sectional elevation through centre of fire from front to

back when range is used as an open fire; the bottom grate being shown

in a level position or half way up.

Fig. 71 is a sectional elevation on the same line as above, showing

the position when in use as a close fire, and also shows the bottom

grate in its lowest position.

To convert a close fire into an open fire, all that is necessary

is to draw forward the top of the plate B, which then assumes a

horizontal position, the same single movement opening the back, and

forming a complete open hood or bonnet to convey the smoke from the

fire into the chimney. The fire-cap C then slides back, the fall-bar

turns down, and a complete open fire is formed. There are no wheels

or cranks to get out of order, and there are no projections at back

to interfere with back boiler or flues.

_The “Eagle” Bottom Grate_ is so well known that it scarcely needs

description, and when intelligently used is most economical. For

heating the ovens or the hot plates a shallow fire only is necessary,

and the consumption of fuel is thereby greatly reduced, and the

deeper fire is only required for roasting or toasting, and even then

the amount of fuel need not be greatly increased, as the bottom grate

being worked on a pivot at back, when it is lowered to full extent

in front, throws all the fuel to front of fire and the bars being

vertical and slightly curved outwards, a large radiating surface is

afforded, making a most perfect fire for roasting in front. This

arrangement does away entirely with the objectionable “false bottom”

of the ordinary kitchener, which is always burning out and very

frequently checks the proper action of the boiler. _See advertisement

in front of title page._

[Illustration: 72. Underfed Smoke-consuming Kitchener.]

Brown and Green’s “Underfed Smoke-consuming Kitchener” (Brown &

Green, 69 Finsbury Pavement, London), Fig. 72, is made in all sizes,

from 8 ft. to 7 ft., with 1 to 4 ovens. The fire of this range is

underfed, i.e. the fire is replenished at the bottom instead of at

the top as usual, thus all gas, smoke, &c., are perfectly consumed,

and the range is practically smokeless. This is an advantage of

importance from an hygienic point of view, and greatly decreases

the flue-cleaning, chimney-sweeping, &c. The ovens of this range

are of the Leamington type, and the flues have to be constructed in

brickwork.

This firm also make the “Gem” cooking range, which is used as an

auxiliary range, being quite portable, with iron flues, and requiring

no brickwork whatever. It is made from 1 ft. 6 in. to 3 ft. wide.

[Illustration: 73. Wilson Grate.]

The “Wilson” range (Wilson Engineering Co., 227 High Holborn), Fig.

73, is a portable range requiring no brickwork, and made in all sizes

from 2 ft. to 10 ft. The range is fitted with a means of consuming

the major portion of the smoke. The fire-door and sides of fire-box

are chambered in such a manner as to cause a swift current of

superheated air to mingle with the smoke as it leaves the fire-box,

and this causes combustion to take place, producing flame and very

materially lessening the quantity of soot.

The ovens are upon the Leamington principle, but with a series of

gills or heat collectors fitted at the bottom (in the flue), which

equalises the heat at top and bottom (so necessary for pastry baking,

&c.).

[Illustration: 74. Treasure Range.]

The “Treasure” range (T. J. Constantine, 61 Fleet Street, London),

Fig. 74, is a portable range made in all sizes from 2 ft. upwards,

and is similar in nearly every respect to the “Wilson” range last

mentioned, excepting that the “Treasure” is now being made with an

open-fronted fire for roasting, and with a movable bottom grating by

which the size of fire can be increased or decreased at will. This

range requires no brick-setting.

This firm make a tray to slide (upon rollers), and closely fit under

the range, which is of great convenience for heating plates, dishes,

&c.

The “Sine qua Non” range (Albion Iron Co., 175 Upper Thames Street,

London) is made in all sizes, and has the following advantages.

Closed or open fire (one movement only); the heat can be directed

to the top or to the bottom of ovens at will, and an improved

ventilating arrangement at the back of range lessens draught and

takes off excess heat and objectionable smells, &c., created at the

hot plate. This is a brick-flue range. Cooking operations can be

carried on with this range when the fire is open.

[Illustration: 75. Dow’s Patent Range.]

“Dow’s” patent range (J. B. Colbran & Co., 247 High Holborn, London),

Fig. 75, is made in all sizes. It is a closed or open fire (one

movement only), and the heat can be directed to the top or bottom of

the oven at will. It is a brick-flue range, and cooking operations

can be carried on when the fire is open.

The “Mistress” range (Smith and Welstood, Ludgate Circus, London),

Fig. 76, is a portable range, made in various sizes, with one or two

ovens and boiler. This is what is commonly known as an “American”

range. This term originated with ranges made for the use of American

settlers, being quite portable, very compact, and provided with a

complete set of utensils. They were then made light for convenience

of transit, and being provided with rather high legs they could be

stood down anywhere, and worked safely at a moment’s notice after

attaching a few feet of flue-pipe.

[Illustration: 76. Mistress Range.]

The “Mistress” is made with a convertible open and closed fire,

and can be had with doors, forming a hot closet for plates, &c.,

underneath (between the legs). The fire of this range is suited for

roasting in front, and every range is fitted with a set of cooking

utensils. The ovens are upon the Leamington principle. This firm also

make many other patterns of this type of range suited for various

requirements.

The “Yorkshire” range (so named as it is the pattern in general

use in that county) is made to suit many purposes. It is a range

especially adapted for bread, cake, and pastry baking, the ovens

invariably having an excess heat at bottom; the flues are ascending,

and the range therefore works with less draught. The range consists

of a fire-box situated in the usual position, and the flues are

carried from the top of the fire to the right or left, as in the

Leamington range, but the bottom of the oven or ovens forms the

upper surface of this first flue instead of the hot plate, i.e. the

bottom of the oven is on a level with the top of the fire-box; the

flue passes from the fire under the bottom of the ovens, then up the

further side, and lastly across the top into the chimney, the results

being like those obtained with the “Thorncliffe” range, but the only

available hot-plate is that immediately over the fire and on top of

the ovens. The space under the ovens (where the ovens of a Leamington

pattern range would exist) is sometimes entirely closed, but more

usually occupied by hot closets, which are heated by the fire that

passes across the top of them, similar to the “Thorncliffe” before

mentioned. This description of range is not commonly met with in the

south of England, but any range maker is prepared to supply it.

There is a combination of the Yorkshire and Leamington ranges made

with an ordinary Leamington oven on one side with hot plate above it,

and a Yorkshire oven on the other side with hot closet below it. This

is a good and useful combination, but the hot plate is necessarily

contracted. This and the Yorkshire range require brick flues.

It must be understood that the ranges mentioned are but a few

well-known patterns that possess certain improvements upon the

Leamington range. There are numberless other makes equally good, but

it would occupy the major portion of this work to treat them all; and

although those mentioned possess improvements upon the Leamington

pattern, we must leave it to the intending purchaser to say whether

the improvements are to his advantage. It must be said in favour of

the Leamington range, that for general good results and simplicity

in working and cleaning, it has always met with general approval,

and probably no other make of range will remain in favour without

interruption for upwards of 30 years as this has done.

Although certain makes of ranges have been specified, as having brick

flues, yet the majority, if not all of them, can be had with iron

flues at a proportionate extra expense, if so ordered, and this extra

expense is a good investment if permanency is desired.

A most useful arrangement is to have a small portable range fixed

in the scullery, or any other convenient position, to act as an

auxiliary to the large range. The convenience of this arrangement

is especially felt when the large range, during some repair, or the

periodical boiler cleaning, cannot be used; or when company increase

the requirements, or in summer, when only a small amount of cooking

is needed, the small range will do the necessary work, and this also

applies when only servants are remaining in the house.

This auxiliary range can be connected into a copper flue, or into the

large range flue, but it must be seen that the damper of this small

range is tightly closed when it is not in use, otherwise it will

seriously interfere with the efficiency of whatever else is being

worked by the flue.

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