4th.—Arose at sun-rise, and after a fatiguing journey reached

Roma at two in the afternoon. This town is built on an eminence, and

commands a delightful view of the country for miles round. Proceeded

to the house of the chief, and slept there. He made me the

accustomed presents of provisions, &c. and received in return a

pair of scissors, a hundred needles, and a paper of cloves. Several

Fellata girls came to me this evening, of a bright copper colour,

and extremely beautiful, with delicate and graceful forms. With a

curiosity so natural to their sex, they were all eager to catch a

glance of the “_little_ Christian,” having seen the “_great_

Christian,” as they termed my master, before. In the course of the

afternoon and evening they brought me a little milk and butter, for

which I recompensed them with a few beads. Here, I am happy to say,

the dysentery quite left me, and my health wonderfully improved.

5th.—Left Roma for Bogell early in the morning, and arrived there at

half-past four in the afternoon. Found myself so well to-day that I

was enabled to ride on horseback the whole of the journey. As usual,

went to the residence of the chief, who gave me a little corn for

the horses only. In the night slept profoundly, and next morning

was completely recovered.

6th.—At six in the morning left for Zulamee, where we arrived at two

in the afternoon. The chief was overjoyed to see me, and ordered four

armed men to guard the beasts and property. A band of robbers having

infested the town for some time, and committed numerous depredations,

he was fearful some of my goods or cattle would be stolen, and

desired me to fire a gun morning and evening, that the brigands

might not think I was unprepared to meet them. They did not, however,

molest me; but the king of Kashna was not quite so fortunate: he had

a fine horse stolen from him yesterday, which he never afterwards

recovered. Rested here two days, in order to recruit the spirits of

my followers, and refresh the animals under their charge.

9th.—At six in the morning, having got every thing in readiness,

left Zulamee. Both men and beasts seemed much invigorated with the

rest they had enjoyed, and at two in the afternoon reached Gundumowah,

a small but neat Fellata village. The chief sent me a little milk.

10th.—Early in the morning started for Sansanee. The country

traversed was thickly wooded, and the path lay for three hours

through a large bush, which, having recently been visited by a horde

of elephants, the prints of whose feet were very perceptible, rendered

travelling extremely unpleasant, and even dangerous. Reached Sansanee

at one at noon. The site on which the town is built not being long

cleared, none of the houses were quite finished. On our arrival,

the chief had an open shed, occupied by fifteen calves, cleaned out

for our reception. In the evening, putting the goods in the centre,

I ordered the men to lie around them, whilst I placed myself near

the most valuable articles. Not deeming them sufficiently secure,

my sleep was rather disturbed; and awaking about ten o’clock, I

found my camel had strayed from outside the hut, and being unwilling

to arouse my drowsy companions, went myself in search of him. On my

return, to my infinite surprise and alarm, discovered Pascoe had

decamped, taking with him a valuable gun, two pistols, a cutlass,

six sovereigns, nineteen dollars, ten large and ten small knives,

and several other articles, which he had contrived to take from the

boxes in which they had been placed. To deceive me, the artful old

villain had put a pillow into a sack, which he had laid along on his

own mat. On the discovery, I immediately made an alarm, and sent to

the chief for twelve horsemen to go in pursuit of him.

11th.—About three o’clock in the afternoon, as I was standing

in my shed, I perceived a party of horsemen coming towards me

in full gallop. On coming within a few yards of me, they suddenly

checked their horses, and flourishing their spears over their heads,

exclaimed, “Nasarah, acqui de moogoo!” (Christian, we have the

rogue!) They informed me that a little before day-break in the morning

they heard the report of a gun, and going towards the place whence the

sound seemed to proceed, saw Pascoe perched on the top of a high tree,

and the stolen goods lying at the root of it. They threatened to shoot

him with their poisoned arrows unless he immediately came down. This

had the desired effect. He hastily descended, and delivered himself

into their hands. One of the soldiers took the trembling scoundrel

behind him on his horse, when the whole party immediately clapped

spurs to their horses, and made all the haste they could to the

village. I asked Pascoe what could have induced him to leave me

in so disgraceful a manner. He replied that his countrymen (the

Gooburites) were at war with the Fellatas, who would cut off his

head on arriving at Soccatoo. The chief coming up at the instant,

cried out, “A blessing, a blessing; you have taken the thief,

let me take off his head!” This was Pascoe’s third offence; and

I ordered him to be heavily ironed and pinioned in the town dungeon.

12th.—Pascoe having expressed a wish to see me, I sent for him. He

begged most piteously to be forgiven, and holding up his naked arms,

which were swollen to thrice their natural size, implored me at

least not to have him pinioned again. This I freely consented to,

but he was not freed from his irons till the morning we left the town.

13th.—This day 500 camels laden with salt, obtained from the borders

of the Great Desert, arrived at the town. They were preceded by a

party of twenty Tuarick salt-merchants, whose appearance was grand

and imposing. They entered at full trot, riding on handsome camels,

some of them red and white, and others black and white. All the

party were dressed exactly alike. They wore black cotton tobes and

trousers, and white caps with black turbans, which hid every part of

the face but the nose and eyes. In their right hand they held a long

and highly-polished spear, whilst the left was occupied in holding

their shields, and retaining the reins of their camels. The shields

were made of white leather, with a piece of silver in the centre. As

they passed me, their spears glittering in the sun, and their whole

bearing bold and warlike, they had a novel and singular effect, which

delighted me. They stopped suddenly before the residence of the chief,

and all of them exclaiming, “Choir!” each of the camels dropped

on its knees, as if by instinct, whilst their riders dismounted to

pay their respects. They came in a body to see me just after, and

notwithstanding their apparent respectability, felt not the least

repugnance to beg money in a most importunate manner. One of them,

in the hope of obtaining some, described himself as “God’s

own slave.” I refused to accede to his request, observing, that

God always loved his servants, and made them prosperous and happy,

and could not believe what he had told me. Becoming at length very

troublesome, I was under the necessity of turning him out: as he

went away, he muttered something I did not understand, and said,

I was the first person that ever refused to give him money. Like

thousands of others, these merchants were very inquisitive, and

amongst other questions asked whether any of my countrymen had tails

like monkeys? I assured them none of them had that elegant appendage,

but they would not believe me. After remaining an hour, they went

to look after their wives and children, who were on the camels on

the road, and not yet arrived.

14th.—The goods being properly secured, I took my gun this morning

and shot enough of pigeons for dinner. The Tuarick men, women, and

children, surrounded me in great numbers on hearing the report of my

gun, and were amazed to see the birds falling dead at my feet from

the tops of the high trees. They examined them with great attention,

declaring I was a beautiful man, too good for a Kafer, and ought to

be a worshipper of the true faith.

16th.—In the afternoon an escort, consisting of fifty armed

horsemen sent by Bello, arrived, to conduct me to Soccatoo. They

brought with them my master’s two camels, to carry the goods,

which, as I afterwards learnt, the Gadado had borrowed under false

pretences. A messenger belonging to the sultan of Kano brought a

letter from my master, unknown to the escort, and was on his way

to Kano with it. The letter informs me of the total ignorance of

my master of my having left Kano, and his expectations of seeing me

there in a week or two. It struck me forcibly at the time that Bello

wished to get me in his power, in order to put us out of the way,

to become the sole possessor of the sheik of Bornou’s presents,

&c. As soon as I had read the letter, I asked the Gadado’s brother,

who commanded the escort, if it was the sultan’s intention to

murder us on my arrival at Soccatoo, as my master knew nothing of the

transaction. He answered, “Fear nothing, the king will not hurt you;

as he has never seen but one Christian, he wishes to view a second.”

17th and 18th.—The Gadado’s brother came to me several times

for money to buy goora nuts. I at length told him the money in my

possession belonged to my father, who would not permit me to part

with any, unless I had previously obtained his consent. This answer

by no means pleased him: but on my telling him he should be handsomely

rewarded on our safe arrival at Soccatoo, he became a little appeased.

19th.—Liberated old Pascoe in the morning, who had behaved peaceably

since his imprisonment, and seemed truly sorry for the offence he

had committed; and at two in the afternoon went out of the town,

but was obliged to leave a bullock behind, being lamed and unable

to proceed. Travelled till eleven o’clock the next night, when we

arrived much fatigued at Magaria. The poor camels and horses could

hardly stand, and suffered dreadfully from thirst, not having drank

during this long journey.

21st and 22d.—The horses and camels not being sufficiently recovered

to continue the journey, staid at Magaria both these days. Resided at

a house belonging to the Gadado, who supplied me with abundance of

provisions. Received a message from him to come to see him, with my

gun, in order to show the head men of the town the manner in which

birds were shot in my country. I soon gratified their curiosity by

firing at a small bird, at a distance of fifty yards. The whole of

them testified the greatest astonishment on taking it up, and would

not for a long time believe it was really dead.

23d.—To my great joy I entered the gates of Soccatoo in the

afternoon, about two o’clock, after a tedious and wearisome journey

of nearly a month. Not having seen my master for three months, I

hastened to his house; but not finding him at home, I went to the

Gadado’s, where, I was told, he had gone. My master was in earnest

conversation with the Gadado and an old Arab, and was much surprised

when informed of the reason of my leaving Kano: he spoke with warmth

of the artful and unhandsome conduct of the sultan; and after this

act of duplicity on the part of Bello, to the hour of his death,

I never observed him to smile. My master had been ill of dysentery

before my arrival, but was then much better.

RESIDENCE AT SOCCATOO — MY MASTER’S DEATH — BURIAL.

On the 13th December, the day after my arrival, Sultan Bello sent

for my master and myself to repair to his residence. As soon as we

entered, he began to make inquiries of the nature of the presents I

had with me, and was extremely desirous to know if I had left any with

Hadji Ben Sallah for the sheik of Bornou. I replied, I had not. “Are

you sure you have not?” said he. I again answered with firmness

in the negative. The sultan then demanded the king of England’s

letters to the sheik of Bornou, which my master reluctantly produced;

but refused to accede to the sultan’s request to open and read

them, observing that, when his king discovered, on his return to his

country, he had so unfaithfully broken his trust, he would immediately

be beheaded. The sultan himself took the letters, and waving his hand

for us to withdraw, we left the apartment. We had not been in our

hut more than a couple of hours when the Gadado, his brother, Hadji

Ben Sallah, and several of the principal inhabitants of Soccatoo,

entered, and demanded, in the name of Bello, the presents intended

for the sheik of Bornou, together with all the arms and ammunition

we did not want ourselves. My master became deeply agitated when he

had heard their errand, and rising up from his couch, exclaimed with

much energy and bitterness—“There is no faith in any of you; you

are an unjust people; you are worse than highway robbers.” They

cautioned him to be more guarded in his expressions, or it might

cost him his head. “If I lose my head,” rejoined my master in

the same determined manner, “I lose it for speaking for the just

rights of my country only.” Ben Sallah and others entreated him

to moderate his anger, or it might indeed be fatal to him. I also

implored him to accede to the demands of the sultan, how unjust and

tyrannic soever they might be, observing, that two debilitated white

men stood no chance in holding out against the united force of so

many Fellatas, who only waited the command of their sovereign to

assassinate them. After much entreaty, and not without considerable

reluctance, my master desired that they should be given to them; and

said to the Gadado, on his leaving the hut, “Tell your sovereign

I never wish to see him again; my business with him is now at an

end.” A short time after Mallam Mudey returned with a message from

the sultan, acquainting my master of his intention of writing to

the king of England in explanation of his conduct. He desired Mallam

Mudey to tell Bello that the king of England would not even _look_

at a letter from him, after the treatment his subjects had received.

I took an opportunity one day of acquainting my master of Pascoe’s

villany, who immediately dismissed him, without paying his wages. The

old man went to a native lawyer to obtain advice in what manner he

was to act; but instead of holding out the hope of obtaining the

sum due to him, the learned Fellata expressed his astonishment that

Abdullah had not cut off his head. Pascoe then turned snuff-merchant;

but having given too extensive credit, soon became a bankrupt,

and was finally obliged to cut wood from the adjoining country,

and sell it in the market at Soccatoo, by which means he contrived

to procure a precarious subsistence.

One day the Gadado came and begged me to lend him my camel to go to

the war against the sheik of Bornou: knowing it would be impolitic to

refuse, I let him have it. The animal was returned to me, about six

weeks after, in a most shameful state, reduced to a mere skeleton,

and having two immense holes in its back. I wished the Gadado to

give me another in its stead, but he would not listen to me.

My master and myself enjoyed pretty good health for some time after

my arrival at Soccatoo, and amused ourselves with going a shooting

almost every day. At one shot my master brought down thirteen wild

ducks, about two miles to the north-east of the city, ten of which

were secured. We remained at Soccatoo much longer than was intended,

believing the sultan would consent to our proceeding to Bornou when

the war had become somewhat abated; but this he never granted.

On the 12th of March, 1827, I was greatly alarmed on finding my

dear master attacked with dysentery. He had been complaining a day

or two previously of a burning heat in his stomach, unaccompanied,

however, by any other kind of pain. From the moment he was taken ill

he perspired freely, and big drops of sweat were continually rolling

over every part of his body, which weakened him exceedingly. It being

the fast of Rhamadan, I could get no one, not even our own servants,

to render me the least assistance. I washed the clothes, which was an

arduous employment, and obliged to be done eight or nine times each

day, lit and kept in the fire, and prepared the victuals myself;

and the intermediate time was occupied in fanning my poor master,

which was also a tedious employment. Finding myself unable to pay

proper attention to his wants in these various avocations, I sent

to Mallam Mudey, on the 13th, entreating him to send me a female

slave to perform the operation of fanning. On her arrival I gave

her a few beads, and she immediately began her work with spirit;

but she soon relaxed in her exertions, and becoming tired, ran away,

on pretence of going out for a minute, and never returned. Alla

Sellakee, a young man my master had purchased on the road from Kano

to take care of the camels, and whom he had invariably treated with

his usual kindness, and given him his freedom, no sooner was made

acquainted with his master’s illness than he became careless and

idle, and instead of leading the camels to the rich pasturage in the

vicinity of Soccatoo, let them stray wherever they pleased, whilst

he himself either loitered about the city, or mixed with the most

degraded people in it: by this means the camels became quite lean;

and being informed of the reason, I told my master, who instantly

discharged him from his service.

My master grew weaker daily, and the weather was insufferably hot,

the thermometer being, in the coolest place, 107 at twelve in the

morning, and 109 at three in the afternoon. At his own suggestion

I made a couch for him outside the hut, in the shade, and placed

a mat for myself by its side. For five successive days I took him

in my arms from his bed in the hut to the couch outside, and back

again at sunset, after which time he was too much debilitated to

be lifted from the bed on which he lay. He attempted to write once,

and but once, during his illness; but before paper and ink could be

brought him, he had sunk back on his pillow, completely exhausted

by his ineffectual attempt to sit up in his bed. Fancying by various

symptoms he had been poisoned, I asked him one day whether he thought

that, in any of his visits to the Arabs or Tuaricks, any poisonous

ingredients had been put into the camel’s milk they had given him,

of which he was particularly fond. He replied, “No, my dear boy;

no such thing has been done, I assure you. Do you remember,” he

continued, “that when on a shooting excursion at Magaria, in the

early part of February, after walking the whole of the day, exposed

to the scorching rays of the sun, I was fatigued, and lay down under

the branches of a tree for some time? The earth was soft and wet,

and from that hour to the present I have not been free from cold:

this has brought on my present disorder, from which, I believe,

I shall never recover.”

For twenty days my poor master remained in a low and distressed

state. He told me he felt no pain; but this was spoken only to

comfort me, for he saw I was dispirited. His sufferings must have been

acute. During this time he was gradually, but perceptibly, declining;

his body, from being robust and vigorous, became weak and emaciated,

and indeed was little better than a skeleton. I was the only person,

with one exception, he saw in his sickness. Abderachman, an Arab

from Fezzan, came to him one day, and wished to pray with him,

after the manner of his countrymen, but was desired to leave the

apartment instantly. His sleep was uniformly short and disturbed,

and troubled with frightful dreams. In them he frequently reproached

the Arabs aloud with much bitterness; but being an utter stranger

to the language, I did not understand the tenor of his remarks. I

read to him daily some portions of the New Testament, and the

ninety-fifth Psalm, which he was never weary of listening to, and

on Sundays added the church service, to which he invariably paid the

profoundest attention. The constant agitation of mind and exertions

of body I had myself undergone for so long a time, never having in

a single instance slept out of my clothes, weakened me exceedingly,

and a fever came on not long before my master’s death, which hung

upon me for fifteen days, and ultimately brought me to the very

verge of the grave. Finding myself unequal to pay that attention to

my master’s wants which his situation so particularly required,

I solicited and obtained his consent to have old Pascoe once more to

assist me. On entering the hut, he fell on his knees, and prayed to be

forgiven, promising to be faithful to my master’s service. Master

immediately pardoned him, and said he would forget all that had

passed, if he conducted himself well: by this means the washing and

all the drudgery was taken from my shoulders, and I was enabled to

devote all my time and attention to my master’s person. I fanned

him for hours together, and this seemed to cool the burning heat of

his body, of which he repeatedly complained. Almost the whole of his

conversation turned upon his country and friends, but I never heard

him regret his leaving them; indeed he was patient and resigned to

the last, and a murmur of disappointment never escaped his lips.

On the 1st of April, he became considerably worse, and though

evidently in want of repose, his sleep became more and more

disturbed. He swallowed eight drops of laudanum, four times a day,

for three days; but finding it did him not the least benefit,

he discontinued taking it altogether: this, with the exception of

two papers of Seidlitz powders and four ounces of Epsom salts, was

the only medicine he had during his illness. On the 9th, Maddie,

a native of Bornou, whom master had retained in his service,

brought him about twelve ounces of green bark from the butter

tree, and said it would do him much good. Notwithstanding all my

remonstrances, master immediately ordered a decoction of it to be

prepared, observing, “No man will injure me.” Accordingly Maddie

himself boiled two basins-full, the whole of which he drank in less

than an hour. Next morning he was much altered for the worse, and

regretted his not having followed my advice. About twelve o’clock

of the same day, he said, “Richard, I shall shortly be no more;

I feel myself dying.” Almost choked with grief, I replied, “God

forbid, my dear master: you will live many years yet.” “Don’t

be so much affected, my dear boy, I entreat you,” said he: “it

is the will of the Almighty; it cannot be helped. Take care of my

journal and papers after my death; and when you arrive in London,

go immediately to my agents, send for my uncle, who will accompany

you to the Colonial Office, and let him see you deposit them safely

into the hands of the secretary. After I am buried, apply to Bello,

and borrow money to purchase camels and provisions for your journey

over the desert, and go in the train of the Arab merchants to

Fezzan. On your arrival there, should your money be exhausted,

send a messenger to Mr. Warrington, our consul at Tripoli, and

wait till he returns with a remittance. On reaching Tripoli, that

gentleman will advance what money you may require, and send you to

England the first opportunity. Do not lumber yourself with my books;

leave them behind, as well as the barometer, boxes, and sticks,

and indeed every heavy article you can conveniently part with;

give them to Malam Mudey, who will take care of them. The wages I

agreed to give you my agents will pay, as well as the sum government

allowed me for a servant; you will of course receive it, as Columbus

has never served me. Remark what towns or villages you pass through;

pay attention to whatever the chiefs may say to you, and put it on

paper. The little money I have, and all my clothes, I leave you:

sell the latter, and put what you may receive for them into your

pocket; and if, on your journey, you should be obliged to expend it,

government will repay you on your return.” I said, as well as my

agitation would permit me, “If it be the will of God to take you,

you may rely on my faithfully performing, as far as I am able, all

that you have desired; but I trust the Almighty will spare you, and

you will yet live to see your country.” “I thought I should at

one time, Richard,” continued he; “but all is now over; I shall

not be long for this world: but God’s will be done.” He then took

my hand betwixt his, and looking me full in the face, while a tear

stood glistening in his eye, said, in a low but deeply affecting

tone, “My dear Richard, if you had not been with me, I should

have died long ago; I can only thank you, with my latest breath,

for your kindness and attachment to me, and if I could have lived

to return with you, you should have been placed beyond the reach of

want; but God will reward you.” This conversation occupied nearly

two hours, in the course of which my master fainted several times,

and was distressed beyond measure. The same evening he fell into

a slumber, from which he awoke in much perturbation, and said he

had heard with much distinctness the tolling of an English funeral

bell: I entreated him to be composed, and observed that sick people

frequently fancy they hear and see things which can possibly have

no existence. He made no reply.

About six o’clock in the morning of the 11th, on asking how he did,

my master answered he was much better, and requested me to shave

him. He had not sufficient strength to lift his head from the pillow;

and after finishing one side of the face, I was obliged to turn his

head, in order to shave the other. As soon as it was done, he desired

me to fetch him a looking-glass which hung on the other side of the

hut. On seeing himself in it, he observed that he looked quite as ill

at Bornou, on his former journey; and as he had borne his disorder

so long a time, he might yet recover. On the following day he still

fancied himself getting better. I began to flatter myself, also, that

he was considerably improved. He eat a bit of hashed guinea-fowl in

the day, which he had not done before since his illness, deriving

his sole sustenance from a little fowl-soup and milk and water. On

the morning of the 13th, however, being awake, I was much alarmed by

a peculiar rattling noise, proceeding from my master’s throat, and

his breathing was loud and difficult; at the same instant he called

out “Richard!” in a low and hurried tone. I was immediately at

his side, and was astonished at seeing him sitting upright in his

bed, and staring wildly around. I held him in my arms, and placing

his head gently on my left shoulder, gazed a moment on his pale and

altered features: some indistinct expressions quivered on his lips;

he strove, but ineffectually, to give them utterance, and expired

without a struggle or a sigh. When I found my poor master so very ill,

I called out with all my strength, “O God, my master is dying!”

which brought Pascoe and Mudey into the apartment. Shortly after the

breath had left his body, I desired Pascoe to fetch some water, with

which I washed the corpse. I then got Pascoe and Mudey to assist me

in taking it outside of the hut, laid it on a clean mat, and wrapped

it in a sheet and blanket. Leaving it in this state two hours, I put a

large clean mat over the whole, and sent a messenger to Sultan Bello,

to acquaint him of the mournful event, and ask his permission to bury

the body after the manner of my own country, and also to know in what

particular place his remains were to be interred. The messenger soon

returned with the sultan’s consent to the former part of my request;

and about 12 o’clock at noon of the same day a person came into my

hut, accompanied by four slaves, sent by Bello to dig the grave. I

was desired to follow them with the corpse. Accordingly I saddled my

camel, and putting the body on its back, and throwing an union-jack

over it, I bade them proceed. Travelling at a slow pace, we halted

at Jungavie, a small village, built on a rising ground, about five

miles to the south-east of Soccatoo. The body was then taken from

the camel’s back, and placed in a shed, whilst the slaves were

digging the grave; which being quickly done, it was conveyed close

to it. I then opened a prayer-book, and, amid showers of tears,

read the funeral service over the remains of my valued master. Not a

single person listened to this peculiarly distressing ceremony, the

slaves being at some distance, quarrelling and making a most indecent

noise the whole of the time it lasted. This being done, the union-jack

was taken off, and the body was slowly lowered into the earth, and I

wept bitterly as I gazed for the last time upon all that remained of

my generous and intrepid master. The pit was speedily filled, and I

returned to the village about thirty yards to the east of the grave,

and giving the most respectable inhabitants, both male and female,

a few trifling presents, entreated them to let no one disturb its

sacred contents. I also gave them 2,000 cowries to build a house,

four feet high, over the spot, which they promised to do. I then

returned, disconsolate and oppressed, to my solitary habitation, and

leaning my head on my hand, could not help being deeply affected with

my lonesome and dangerous situation; a hundred and fifteen days’

journey from the sea-coast, surrounded by a selfish and cruel race

of strangers, my only friend and protector mouldering in his grave,

and myself suffering dreadfully from fever. I felt, indeed, as if

I stood alone in the world, and earnestly wished I had been laid by

the side of my dear master: all the trying evils I had endured never

affected me half so much as the bitter reflections of that distressing

period. After a sleepless night, I went alone to the grave, and found

that nothing had been done, nor did there seem the least inclination

on the part of the inhabitants of the village to perform their

agreement. Knowing it would be useless to remonstrate with them,

I hired two slaves at Soccatoo the next day, who went immediately

to work, and the house over the grave was finished on the 15th.

One instance, out of many, of the kindness and affection with which

my departed master uniformly treated me, occurred at Jenna, on our

journey into the interior. I was dangerously ill with fever in that

place, when he generously gave up his own bed to me, and slept himself

on my mat, watched over me with parental assiduity and tenderness,

and ministered to all my wants. No one can express the joy he felt

on my recovery: and who, possessing a spark of gratitude, could

help returning it but by the most inviolable attachment and devoted

zeal? It was his sympathy for me in all my sufferings that had so

powerful a claim on my feelings and affections, and taught me to be

grateful to him in hours of darkness and distress, when pecuniary

recompense was entirely out of the question.

The great sufferings, both mental and bodily, I had undergone at the

death and burial of my master, and the constant agitation in which

I was kept, occasioned a rapid increase in my disorder; and on the

16th I could with difficulty crawl round my hut, and was obliged to

lay myself on my mat, from which I had not strength to arise till the

27th; old Pascoe, during that period, being very kind and attentive to

me. The Arabs in the city visited me daily, and did all in their power

to raise my spirits; telling me not to be disheartened at the death of

my father, and that no injury would happen to me. But I plainly saw

these visits of condolence did not proceed from a charitable spirit;

they came more for the purpose of obtaining presents than any thing

else: but I did not give them any. The sultan also sent messengers to

inquire after my health nearly as often. The weather was dreadfully

warm; and I was obliged to have a tub of water close at my side,

into which I frequently plunged my hands and arms, and occasionally

sprinkled my head and body. This much refreshed me; indeed it was

the only means by which I was enabled to obtain a little sleep. I

had given up all hopes of life, when on the 26th I found my health

improve in a wonderful manner; the next day I was able to sit up on

my mat. In the course of this day (27th) the Gadado, Malem Moodie,

and Sidi Sheik, came with a commission from the sultan to search my

boxes, as he had been informed they were filled with gold and silver;

but, to their great amazement, found I had not sufficient money to

defray my expenses to the sea-coast. They, however, took an inventory

of all my articles, and carried it to Bello. The gold watch intended

for him, and the private watches of Captains Clapperton and Pearce,

I had taken the precaution to conceal about my person. In a short

time the Gadado and his companions returned with a message from the

sultan, commanding me to deliver to them the following articles,

viz. a rifle-gun, double-barrelled ditto, two bags of ball, a

canister of powder, a bag of flints, a ream and a half of paper,

and six gilt chains, for which he promised to give me whatever I

might ask. I consequently charged him 245,000 cowries, which I was

to receive from Hadji Hat Sallah, at Kano; and an order was given me

to receive this sum, and what more I might require in my journey over

the Great Desert. A letter was also sent by me to Hadji Hat Sallah.

On the 28th I made Ben Gumso a present of four yards of blue, and

the same quantity of scarlet damask, an unwritten journal-book, two

pairs of scissors, and two knives: with these articles I endeavoured

to get into the good graces of this old Arab. By a singular piece

of good fortune he had just begun to exercise a powerful influence

over the mind and opinions of the sultan. Bello, in an excursion

into the Gooberite country, had come to an engagement with a large

party of the natives; and in the midst of the fight was shot in

the neck with a poisoned arrow, which turned the tide of victory in

favour of his enemies. On his return to Soccatoo, Ben Gumso wrote

a charm on a bit of wood, which was washed off into a calabash of

water, and drank immediately by the sultan; who, shortly after

recovering, attributed it solely to the virtues of this charm,

and he was advanced accordingly. I begged Ben Gumso to use his

influence with the sultan to obtain leave for my departure from

his capital, and make the best of my way homewards. He accordingly

represented to Bello the impolicy and injustice of detaining any

longer a subject of the king of England; advised him to allow me to

quit Soccatoo as soon as possible; and insinuated that, if I were

to die in his dominions, a report would be circulated and believed

that he had murdered both my father and me, by which he would get

a bad name. The sultan approved of these weighty arguments of Ben

Gumso; and word was sent me, almost immediately, to appear before

him. After a little preliminary conversation, Bello asked me which

route I should prefer. Although my master had advised me to proceed

with the Arabs to Fezzan, just before his death, I much feared that

the papers intrusted to my care would be stolen, and myself murdered,

by that wily and treacherous race, whose behaviour to my master,

from the time of his arrival in Houssa, I very much disliked; and

would rather cast myself, unarmed and unprotected, upon the good

faith of the natives, than go with them. Under these impressions I

answered the sultan that, as I wished to get to England in as short

a time as possible, the route to Kubbi, through Boussa, was most

likely to answer that end. “It is impossible,” he continued,

“to travel that way: the rainy season is commenced; the rivers

are overflowed; the country is inundated; and you will not be able

to reach the sea-coast in safety. It will be much better for you to

go over the desert; and, to facilitate your progress, I will write

Hat Sallah to get a trustworthy person to accompany you; he will

also furnish you with camels and provisions, and advance you what

money it is likely you will want.” I only replied, “Very well,

sultan.” He then asked if Abdullah had forgiven Pascoe in his book,

for the roguery he had committed. I said, “He had not been able

to write during the whole of his sickness; and therefore nothing

was stated about the matter.”—“If Abdullah has not pardoned

him in his book,” rejoined the sultan, “your king will certainly

cut off his head on his arrival in England.” I assured him Pascoe

would not be punished by any one, if his future conduct was good; but

this the sultan was in no haste to believe; and observed, “I cannot

suffer him to go with you; he shall stay here to _clean and repair my

guns_!” this latter consideration having evidently more influence

with the sultan than Pascoe’s safety, which he cared nothing at all

about. I then besought Bello to permit him to accompany me as far as

Kano, as an interpreter; to which he rather reluctantly consented,

on condition that I should procure him a horse to return, and pay

him wages, on my arrival at Kano, to the amount of 15,000 cowries,

which of course I agreed to do; and finding the sultan had nothing

more to say, I bowed profoundly and retired. I never saw him again.

FROM SOCCATOO TO DUNRORA.

On the evening of the 3d of May, a messenger came from the sultan,

and told me to get every thing in readiness to depart on the following

morning, with a promise of a camel and provisions, which I never

received. Early next day, therefore, I left Soccatoo, where I had

suffered so much, heartily tired of the place and its inhabitants;

and, accompanied with a messenger from the kind old Gadado, Pascoe

and Mudey, with our three camels and two horses, proceeded to a flat,

five miles to the east of Magaria, where we arrived in the afternoon,

and rested for the night under the branches of a large tree, near to a

small lake. Mosquitoes were numerous and troublesome, and consequently

could not sleep till morning, when a refreshing breeze springing up,

it drove them away. At this flat we joined a party of above 4,000

people, consisting of Tuarick salt-merchants returning to Kilgris,

pilgrims on their way to Mecca, Goora merchants returning to Kano and

Nyffé, &c. &c.; all travelling in company, for mutual protection,

with an immense number of camels, horses, and bullocks. The merchants

invariably meet at Kashna, where they disperse for their different

destinations. In the same train was the king of Jacoba, with fifty

slaves, which he had driven to Soccatoo, as a present to the sultan,

who, having learnt the dreadful losses he had sustained in men and

cattle in his wars with the sheik of Bornou, and the number of his

villages which had been plundered and burnt by the soldiers of the

sheik, would not accept of them, and desired the king of Jacoba to

re-conduct them to his own dominions.

At eleven o’clock in the morning of the 4th of May, a signal to

prepare to depart was made with the horns and drums of the party,

which made a loud and most discordant noise; and, about an hour

after, the whole body was in motion. We travelled in great haste

till three o’clock in the afternoon of the 5th, when Boussa Jack,

the horse on which I rode, and which was made a present of by the

king of Boussa to my late master, became much fatigued, and began

to lag. The weather was at this time intolerably hot, and the dust

was rolling in thick clouds in every direction, entering my eyes and

nostrils, and penetrating into the very pores of the skin. I felt

nearly suffocated, and was faint and exhausted. Finding I was unable

to proceed, I ordered Pascoe to overtake the camels, his horse being

fresh and vigorous, and bring me some water. I then dismounted, and

sat under a tree by the road-side, whose branches afforded but an

indifferent shelter against the scorching rays of an African sun,

and holding the bridle of my poor horse in my hand, I implored

the hundreds of Fellatas and Tuaricks who were passing to sell me

a drop of water; but the cold-hearted wretches refused my earnest

request, observing one to another, “He is a Kafir; let him die.”

At length a young Fellata, from Footatoora, accidentally seeing me,

came to the spot, exclaiming, “Nasarah, Nasarah, triffi manora!”

(Christian, Christian, go on!) I answered, “I am faint and sick

for want of water; no one will give me any; and I am so weary that

I cannot proceed.” On hearing which the young man kindly gave me

a small calabash full; part of which I drank, and with the remainder

washed the nostrils of Boussa Jack, and sprinkled a little into his

mouth. The people, who observed the Fellata performing this generous

action, upbraided him in strong language for giving water to the

Christian; but he, showing them a double-barrelled gun, remarked

that he had obtained it of my countrymen, who were all good men,

and would do no harm. This somewhat appeased them. On examining the

gun shortly afterwards, I found it to be of English manufacture,

with “Arnold, maker, London,” on its lock. I, as well as the

horse, was greatly refreshed with the small quantity of water I had

taken; but soon becoming again weak and dispirited, I was almost

in as bad a state as on the former occasion; my legs were swollen

prodigiously, and I felt the most acute pains in every part of

my body. At length I perceived Pascoe, whom I had sent for water

three or four hours previously, comfortably seated under a tree,

and seeming to be enjoying himself much with Mudey,—the camels

feeding at a short distance. I had half an inclination to shoot the

heartless old scoundrel, knowing as he did how keen my sufferings

must have been. Reflecting, however, that the safety of my papers,

and even my own life, was placed in some measure in his hands,

I restrained myself, and merely asked why he did not return with

the water, on which he answered, very composedly, “I was tired.”

The young Fellata who had so generously saved my life came to me on

the 7th, and informed me that the whole of the slaves of the king of

Jacoba being missing, a party of horsemen had been sent in quest of

them, and had just returned with the dreadful account of having seen

thirty-five of their dead bodies exposed on the road; the remaining

fifteen could not be found, but were strongly suspected of having

met a similar fate. These unfortunate creatures had to carry heavy

burdens on their heads the day before; and being unable to keep up

with the rapid pace of the camels, were necessarily obliged to be

left behind, and thus miserably perished of thirst. I congratulated

myself on my own good fortune in having so narrowly escaped so horrid

a death; and thanked the Almighty for having so providentially

rescued me. On leaving me, I gave the Fellata a pair of scissors,

and twenty flints for his gun, which pleased him highly. On our road

to Kano, the king of Jacoba became very sociable with me, and was

my constant companion. He pressed me very much to visit his country,

where he would do all in his power to make my stay agreeable. He told

me that his neighbours, the Yamyam people, who had assisted him in

his war against the sheik of Bornou, were surrounded, with some of

his own people, on a plain near Jacoba, by the sheik’s soldiers,

who made a dreadful slaughter of them. The fight lasted a whole

day, when the Yamyams and people of Jacoba were entirely routed; he

himself narrowly escaping being taken prisoner. The morning after,

the surviving Yamyams repaired to the field of action, and bearing

off a great number of the dead bodies of their enemies, made a fire,

roasted, and ate them!

Soon after our arrival at Markee, on the 19th, the spouse of the

chief, a finely formed and intelligent looking woman, aged about 22

years, came to me with tears in her eyes, and implored me to give

her some magarie, as she had no child. I accordingly presented her

with a couple of tea-spoonfuls of oil of cinnamon, and ordered her

to put two drops of it into a pint of cow’s milk, which should be

taken three times a day till the whole was consumed. I told her that

on my return to Markee I had not the least doubt I should have the

pleasure of seeing her the happy mother of a numerous progeny. On

her husband being made acquainted with the circumstance, he came and

thanked me in the heartiest manner for my kindness, gave me abundance

of fresh milk, fowls, rice, &c.; telling me at the same time, that

on my return from England he would give me a large sum of money,

which, no doubt, he will do. Bidding them adieu the next morning,

they said to me, “Christian! God send you safely to your country,

and may you speedily come back to Markee.”

On my arrival at Kano on the 25th of May, I delivered Sultan

Bello’s order and letter to Hadji Hat Sallah; but he declared,

after perusing the letter, he would have nothing to do with it:

he had nearly lost his head on my father’s account at Soccatoo,

and therefore positively refused to lend me a single cowrie. He

had no objection to give, in goods and a slave, the amount of my

demands on Bello, but refused to let me have any money. I accordingly

received from him a strong female slave, a quantity of unwrought silk,

and scarlet caps and beads. I sold my weakened and diseased camels

for 15,000 cowries each, and discharged their keeper, Maddie. Not

having sufficient money to purchase fresh camels, provisions, and

presents for the chiefs on my way to Fezzan, I was necessitated

to take a different route; and for that purpose purchased a horse

and two asses. Bello had not forgotten to mention in his letter for

Hadji Hat Sallah to send back Pascoe to Soccatoo, on his arrival at

Kano. I begged of him, however, to let me take him as far as Coulfo,

in Nyffé, which he at first refused; but giving him two yards of

scarlet damask, two pairs of scissors, two dollars, a large knife,

and two yards of blue damask, the old Arab seemed to relax in his

determination; and calling Pascoe to him, gave him leave to accompany

me to Coulfo, but cautioned him to return the moment he arrived,

on pain of having _Jerrub_ (the devil) sent after him. The old man

came to me just after in great trepidation, every member of his body

trembling like an aspen leaf, and gave me to understand, as well

as he was able, the conversation he had had with Hadji Hat Sallah,

and in consequence thereof, his great reluctance to quit Kano with

me. I did all I could to laugh him out of his superstitious fears,

but it utterly failed of the desired effect; the name of _Jerrub_

being enough to put him in a fever. I had given the slave that Hadji

Hat Salah had sold me to Pascoe as a wife. I told him that, unless

he accompanied me, he should not have her. As soon as he learnt he

was to be parted from the girl, all his scruples vanished, and he

consented to go to Coulfo, but no farther, he having left a wife at

Soccatoo, where he much wished to go. This woman, whom I had seen

several times as Ben Gumso’s slave, was remarkably ugly, and had

had before marriage a male child, by a blind fiddler belonging to

Sultan Bello’s band at Soccatoo. On my asking what had induced

him to marry so frightful an object, he replied, in a tone full

of tenderness, it was because she loved him very much, and made

the best _tuah_ he had ever tasted: these powerful recommendations

were irresistible to a man of Pascoe’s stamp; and a very short

time after he had first tasted her _tuah_, Ben Gumso’s ugly slave

became the wife of Abbou Boukir (Pascoe’s native name).

On the 29th, Hadji Hat Sallah desired me to pay my respects to

the king of Kano, who was then at Faniso, his country residence. I

complied with his wishes, and on my leaving his majesty he said,

“When you return to your own country, Christian, give the Fellatas

a good name.” He was not, however, kind enough to send a messenger

with me, so I hired two men to accompany me as far as Funda, paying

them 8,000 cowries each for their journey. The same day at one left

Kano, and travelling at a quick pace, halted on the banks of the

river Kogie, four hours’ journey from that place; but being much

swollen, did not dare to pass. To our great regret we found that the

tent-poles had been left behind; I was consequently obliged to send

back one of the hired servants after them, giving him a sword as a

proof that he was sent by me; but the scoundrel never returned. It

being necessary for us to rest on the banks of the river that night,

I slung the tent to the branch of a tree, and fastened the lower part

to the earth. At seven in the evening it came to fall heavy rain,

accompanied with the loudest thunder I ever recollect to have heard,

and lightning, which continued with great violence till nine next

morning. In the night, our tent becoming completely drenched and

heavy, the bough to which it was attached gave way, and it fell on

us as we were sitting on our mats, it being utterly impossible to

sleep. We remained in this miserable plight till day-light, for no

one could venture out in that dreadful weather.

30th.—As soon as things were put to rights this morning, I sent

Pascoe to Kano to endeavour to bring back the fellow that had cheated

me yesterday, but he had not been seen near the place; and Pascoe

returned in the afternoon with the poles. The river was now become

fordable, but, owing to the strength and rapidity of the current,

we crossed with extreme difficulty. We had no sooner landed on the

opposite side than four armed slaves from Soccatoo came up to us,

and demanded 4,000 cowries of Pascoe, which Ben Gumso had lent him

to defray the expenses of the marriage ceremony with his slave, the

celebrated maker of tuah; and if Pascoe were unable to pay that sum,

they were to take him back to Soccatoo. Pascoe informed them he had

left English clothes and money in that capital worth 50,000 cowries,

out of which Ben Gumso might pay himself. This answer by no means

satisfied the slaves, who were about to take him away by force, when

I myself paid the money demanded. This little affair being settled

to the complete gratification of Pascoe, we stopped till morning on

the spot. The weather during the whole of the night was just as bad

as yesterday. In the evening sent Mohamed, the other hired servant,

to a neighbouring village to purchase provisions; but he brought

with him a little corn only.

31st.—The weather clearing up this morning about eight, we

proceeded on our journey, and at two P.M. arrived at Madubie,

a small walled town. The chief invited me to remain at his house,

but I preferred staying in my tent, which I had fixed within the

walls, close to the gate. In the evening the chief’s daughter

came to see me, bringing milk, a bowl of stewed beef, and tuah,

sufficient for the whole of us for supper. I afterwards made her a

trifling present. The weather as usual.

June 1st.—Having dried our tent, at 9 A.M. journeyed till we came

to the banks of the Gora, a narrow but deep and rapid river. I was

much afraid the men would be washed down the stream in crossing;

but at length every thing was landed on the opposite side. Passed

the walled town of Bebajie at one at noon; and ordering the men

to proceed ahead, I followed at some distance, being afraid the

inhabitants would detain me if recognised. Half an hour after, came

to a spot where are two roads, one leading to Nyffé, and the other

to Funda. My master had said, before his death, at Soccatoo, that if

I returned through Nyffé and Youriba, the inhabitants, who must have

heard of our having taken presents to Sultan Bello, with whom they

were at war, would certainly assassinate me; and feeling an earnest

and irrepressible desire to visit Funda, on the banks of the Niger,

and trace, in a canoe, that river to Benin, without hesitation I chose

the Funda road. We therefore proceeded, and at 6 A.M. pitched our

tent within half a mile of the walled town of Koufa. Sent Pascoe to

the town for provisions; who shortly afterwards returned with some

of the inhabitants to look at the tent. The chief did not visit me,

thinking I was an Arab on his way to Funda. I was fortunate enough to

obtain a little sleep this night, for the first time since leaving

Kano. The town is situated at the foot of an immense rock, on which

there is not the slightest trace of vegetation, is about two miles

in circumference, and pretty thickly inhabited. To the east of the

town is a range of high hills, stretching from north to south as far

as the eye can reach. Their sides had a most pleasing appearance,

and vegetation looked green and luxuriant. Travelled in a south-east

direction till ten in the morning, when our course lay more westerly.

2d.—Left Koufa at 6 A.M., the weather being rainy, and halted at

the small walled town of Cookie at twelve at noon.

3d.—It began to rain at day-break, and continued without

intermission till ten in the morning, when, brightening a little,

we struck our tent, and started at eleven.

At 5 P.M. came near Carifo, a small walled town, similar in extent

and form to those we had seen yesterday and the day before. In

the course of the day crossed a large river and two smaller ones,

all running in a westerly direction, but no one could tell me their

names. The hills seen yesterday still on our left, and extending to

the horizon.

At 9 A.M. a dreadful thunder-storm came on, with lightning and

torrents of rain, which threatened to wash down our tent. The country

traversed to-day and yesterday, though level, is picturesque and

beautiful; all nature wears a gay and lively aspect: the soil rich,

and of a deep red colour.

4th.—At eight this morning, after drying the tent, proceeded;

and at eleven reached the foot of a high and craggy mountain, called

Almena, consisting of gigantic blocks of granite, fearfully piled on

each other, and seeming ready to fall to the ground below. They much

resemble the rocks near the Logan-stone, in Cornwall, but infinitely

larger. Mahomet, my servant, who is acquainted with the traditions

of the natives of every part of this country, and had travelled far

and near, gave me the following story:—“About 500 years ago

a queen of the Fantee nation, having quarrelled with her husband

about a golden stool, fled from her dominions with a great number of

her subjects, and built a large town at the foot of this mountain,

which she called Almena, from which it took its name.” The town

was surrounded with a stone wall, as the ruins which now remain

plainly attest. Crossed three small streams in the day, flowing in a

north-westerly direction. At 3 P.M. passed a small walled town called

Gowgee; and at four halted at Gatas, which it exactly resembled. Here

I met with some Kano merchants from Cuttup. The inhabitants of Gatas,

discovering by some means my being a Christian, came in crowds to

see me; but behaved in a quiet and orderly manner. I invited some

of the most respectable of the females into my tent, which they

greatly admired, and shortly afterwards presented me with milk and

foorah. The natives of this, as well as every other town I have seen

in this direction, are of Houssa, but tributary to the Fellatas.

5th.—At five in the morning were again on the road, and halted

at the south side of Damoy, a small walled town, at 2 P.M. The

inhabitants of this town informed me that the range of hills I

have mentioned extended to the salt water, and are inhabited by

the ferocious Yamyams, whom they all declare, as did every one I

had questioned on the road, to be cannibals. The Yamyams formerly

carried on an extensive traffic with the Houssa men, in red cloth,

beads, &c. which they took in exchange for elephant’s teeth: but

five years before they assassinated a gaffle of merchants, and had

afterwards eaten them; since which time the Houssa people have been

shy in dealing with them.

6th.—Started at eight in the morning, and traversing a hilly and

steril country, covered with small loose stones, reached the south

side of a large river called by the natives Accra, at 3 P.M., running

to the north-west. I was in hopes of getting into a town this day;

but having a burning fever on me, and the nearest village being at

some distance, we were obliged to fix the tent on the banks of the

river, and remain there till morning without food of any kind.

7th.—Left at six in the morning, and proceeding in a south-west

course, arrived at a walled town called Nammaleek, at twelve at

noon; the north-east part of which is defended by a mountain,

and the remaining parts by a high mud wall. The mountain is nearly

perpendicular, and thickly covered with wood. Thousands of hyenas,

tiger-cats, jackals, monkeys, &c. inhabit it; and the terrific noise

they made during the night prevented me from closing my eyes. These

animals are so rapacious, that the poor inhabitants cannot keep a

single bullock, sheep, or goat; in consequence of which no animal

food could be obtained in the place. The chief put us into a hut,

and gave us tuah, with a sauce made from the monkey’s bread-fruit

tree, which is most unpalatable stuff. I intended to stop a short

time here, and take medicine; but the people coming in scores to see

me, I had no opportunity of opening my box but in their presence,

which I did not choose to do. This day, two Fellatas, messengers

of the sultan of Zegzeg, unfortunately saw me, and asked where I

was going. On my acquainting them, they immediately rode off, and,

as I subsequently learnt, returned to Zegzeg, and informed the king

that I was on my way to Funda with two asses, loaded with riches,

and a beautiful horse, as presents to the king of that place.

8th.—At eight in the morning left Nammaleek, and keeping in a

south-west direction, at the foot of a range of mountains, perceived

an opening, and went through it at about twelve. Our course then

lay more easterly, and crossing one large and three small rivers,

whose names I could not learn, arrived at Fullindushie, the frontier

town in Catica. On our journey to-day, we met, on their way to Zegzeg,

as a tax to sultan Bello, from a neighbouring country, thirty slaves,

men, women, and children, all apparently ill with the small-pox. The

men were tied to each other by the neck with twisted bullocks’

hide; but the women and children were at liberty. The inhabitants

of Fullindushie were the first people I had seen in Africa who

disdained to make use of any kind of dress. They laughed immoderately

on seeing me; whilst I, on my part, made myself quite merry at their

expense. They were soon on the most familiar footing with me, and seem

an artless and good-humoured people; but disgusting in their manners,

and filthy in their persons: their sheep, goats, and poultry eat

and sleep in the same hut with them, and a most intolerable stench

is exhaled from all their dwellings. They do not appear to have the

least affection for their offspring: a parent will sell his child for

the merest trifle in the world, with no more remorse or repugnance

than he would a chicken. They invariably wear a large piece of blue

glass, in the shape of a semicircle, in their upper and lower lip;

and a piece of red wood, about the size of a man’s thumb, dangles

from their ears. They rub red clay, softened with an oil extracted

from the guinea-nut, over their heads and bodies, which by no means

improves their appearance. Their features do not resemble in any

way those of the Negro, but are fine and handsome, and bear great

similitude to the European. The inhabitants make fetishes, like the

natives of Yariba.

9th.—Leaving at seven in the morning, did not halt till we arrived

at La Zumee, a small town, with a good population, at three in

the afternoon. On my entering, perceived two men sitting under the

date-tree, one of whom having a tobe on, I saluted, thinking him

to be the chief; but was surprised at his telling me he was a Kano

merchant, and that the person by his side was that individual. The

chief is a mean and dirty looking old man, and had a sheep-skin

covered with filth tied round his waist. After showing me a hut,

and staying away two hours, he came back, and apologized for not

sending me provisions, saying his wives were at work in the gardens,

but that on their return I should have some: accordingly, about

three hours after, they brought me a couple of fowls, and some

tuah and rice; for which I gave them a pair of scissors and fifty

needles. Surrounding the town is a remarkably broad and deep ditch,

which appeared to have been formerly filled with water. The country

in the vicinity of the town is well cultivated. The Catica or Bowchee

people do not possess a single bullock.

10th.—Arose at six in the morning, and pursuing a S.W. direction,

over a fine and rich country, arrived at Coorokoo, a small walled

town, environed with hills, at twelve.

11th.—Started at half-past seven in the morning, and halted at

twelve at noon on the north-east side of the banks of a large river,

rolling to the north-west, called Coodoonia, which empties itself

into the Niger, near Funda. Finding it too deep to cross, we were

obliged to remain till next day without food.

12th.—Crossed the river at nine o’clock this morning, the water

reaching to our chins; and immediately proceeded towards Cuttup,

where we arrived after three hours’ travelling. Having heard, on my

route, so many different reports of Cuttup, its wealth, population,

and celebrated market, I was rather surprised on finding it to consist

of nearly five hundred small villages, almost adjoining each other;

nearly the whole of which occupy a vast and beautiful plain, adorned

with the finest trees. Here, for the first time since leaving the

coast, I saw plantain, palm, and cocoa-nut trees, in great abundance,

and in a flourishing condition; the country resembling, in a striking

manner, some parts of Yariba. A considerable traffic is carried

on here in slaves and bullocks; the latter are bred by Fellatas,

a great number of whom reside here for no other purpose. Slaves,

as well as bullocks and sheep, are exposed in the market, which is

held daily; and also red cloth, gum, salt, goora nuts, trona, beads,

tobacco, country cloth, rings, needles, cutlery articles, and honey,

rice, milk, &c. People from the most distant parts of the country

resort here in vast numbers, to purchase these various articles. The

sultan being a very great man, I thought it necessary to make him

a present worthy the representative (however humble) of the king of

England. I accordingly gave him four yards of blue damask, the same

quantity of scarlet ditto, a print of my own gracious sovereign,

and one of his royal highness the Duke of York, with several more

trifling articles. In return, I received from him a sheep, the humps

of two bullocks, and stewed rice sufficient for fifty men. Ten of the

king’s wives, on paying me a visit a day or two after my arrival,

took a fancy to the gilt buttons on my jacket, which I cut off and

presented to their sable majesties. Thinking them to be gold, they

immediately stuck them in their ears. In this belief I took care

not to undeceive them.

During my stay at Cuttup I was never in want of a bullock’s hump

(by far the best part of the animal, weighing from twelve to fifteen

pounds), for the king invariably receives, as a tax from the butchers,

the hump of every bullock they slaughtered; and one or two was sent

me by his wives each day. Being in want of money, I sent to the

market and informed the people I had needles and beads to sell; on

which several buyers came into my hut and purchased freely, giving

me fifteen or twenty cowries each for the needles, whilst the Arabs

could only get ten at most for theirs; but whether they conceived my

needles to be superior, or whether it was the desire of obtaining

something of a white man, I did not learn. Unlike the princes of

Houssa, Borgoo, Nyffé, Cuttumkora, and other places in the interior,

the sultan of Cuttup gives his wives unrestricted liberty.

An old woman came to me one afternoon, full of grief, informing me of

her having frequently been robbed of the little money she had saved

from her earnings, from holes in her hut, where she had hid it, by

some of her neighbours and acquaintances. She entreated me to let

her have a charm to prevent such dishonest acts in future. Being

ever willing to oblige the simple-hearted Africans, I gave her a

tea-spoonful of common sweet oil, in a small phial, telling her that

she must, on her return to her hut, pour it into the hole in which

she intended concealing her money; and that if any one but herself

touched the money while there, without her permission, he would not

long survive. I advised her by all means to give the virtues of this

charm as extensive a circulation as possible, and I had no doubt she

would not be robbed again. The poor old woman could not express the

gratitude she felt for my kindness; she dropped on her knees before

me, thanked me in the warmest terms, and pressed me to accept of

forty cowries, the only money she had then in the world. Of course

I refused to deprive the old woman of her substance, and sent her

away highly pleased with the treatment she had received.

16th.—Having paid my respects to the king and his wives last

evening, left Cuttup at six in the morning; and pursuing a south-west

direction till half-past one, when we proceeded due south, arrived at

Coogie, a small town, at half-past three in the afternoon. Owing to

the bites and stings of myriads of flies, the asses, for the whole of

the journey, were restive and unmanageable, frequently throwing off

their loads, and detaining us on the way by their wanton pranks. The

roads were of the very worst description; at one moment obliged to

carry the loads ourselves over dangerous precipices, and at the next

up to our waist in mud and water on the low grounds. Two Fellatas

came to see me this day, but made no observations.

17th.—Pursuing our journey at half-past five in the morning,

arrived at a town called Dungoora at two in the afternoon. It rained

heavily during this day’s journey, and consequently got wet to the

skin on halting. The water rushed in torrents through the valleys,

and in some places on the hills the beasts sank to their knees in

mud and dirt. Crossed a large river to-day, named Rary, flowing to

the south-east, our course being to the south-south-west. The country

traversed is hilly and thickly wooded; the soil rich and fertile. Not

being able to obtain provisions, and every article being wet through,

obliged to remain in our wet clothes all night, without fire or food.

18th.—At 6 A.M. proceeded on our journey, and arrived at Dunrora

at 6 P.M. Our route, some parts of the day, lay over steep and

craggy precipices, some of them being of a most awful height. On the

summit of one of these places the path was barely wide enough for

a single beast to pass. The horse that carried the portmanteaus, in

which were the journal, papers, watches, &c. struck himself against

a piece of rock projecting over the road, and was precipitated

a distance of eighty yards, the ropes which were bound round the

portmanteaus arresting his further progress. I was horror-struck

on observing the poor little animal tumbling head over heels down

the frightful declivity, and was much afraid he would be dashed

to pieces, the portmanteaus broken, and their contents destroyed;

but was most happy to see him entangled in some stunted trees which

fortunately grew on the side of the precipice, which is seven hundred

yards in height. This accident occasioned us two hours’ delay; but

the horse was not materially hurt. We had been travelling about half

an hour after leaving this spot, when we came to a place from which

there was an extensive and beautiful prospect of the surrounding

country; and eight days’ journey might plainly be seen before

us. I halted for a moment to gaze upon the fine and noble scene

around me. About half a day’s journey to the east stood a lofty

hill, at the foot of which lay the large city of Jacoba. Mahomet

affirmed that there is a river called Shar, or Sharry, about half a

mile from that place, which derives its source from the lake Tchad;

and that canoes can go from the lake to the Niger at any season

of the year. The Sharry empties itself into the Niger at Funda;

and the Niger, after leaving the towns of Cuttum Currijee, Gattoo,

and Jibboo, joins the salt water, but at what particular place

Mahomet could not rightly inform me, never having heard the word

“Benin” mentioned before. Funda lies due west of Dunrora. Not

being aware that the chief of Dunrora was so very great a man, I

this day sent him only a pair of scissors and fifty needles, which

were shortly afterwards returned to me with a request that I would

give them to a less exalted personage. On asking the reason of this

conduct, the people informed me I had insulted the dignity of their

chief by offering so trifling a present, he being a mighty man. Not

feeling disposed, however, to add any thing else to it, I sent back

the messenger empty-handed. Dunrora contains 4000 inhabitants.

FROM DUNRORA BACK TO ZEGZEG.

19th.—This morning as I was loading my beasts, and preparing

to depart, I perceived four armed men ride up at full gallop to

the residence of the chief, their horses covered with foam and

perspiration. The chief had no sooner been made acquainted with their

errand than he came to me, followed by an immense multitude of people,

and gave me to understand that I must immediately return with the

messengers, who had just arrived, to the king of Zegzeg, who much

wished to see me. I remonstrated with him on the injustice of the

command, telling him it was a hard case I should go back to Zegzeg,

having proceeded so far on my way unmolested: his only reply was,

that if he suffered me to depart he should lose his head. Finding

entreaty and persuasion useless, I consented, with a bad grace, to

return with the messengers. Thus, after seventeen days’ perilous

travelling from Kano, with a fair prospect of reaching Funda in twelve

or thirteen more, from whence four days’ sail would bring me to

the salt water, a new country opening before me, and filled with the

most lively anticipations of solving the geographical problem which

had for so long a time puzzled Europeans, of ascertaining whether

the Niger actually joins the sea in that direction, was I obliged to

abandon my fondest and long cherished hopes, and return to Zegzeg;

from thence to be transported the Lord knew whither. I felt depressed

and unhappy at this sudden turn in my affairs, and cared not much

whether I lived or died. We left the town in the course of the day,

and entered Cuttup by the same route I had taken on the 21st.

I was attacked with dysentery on my arrival, and remained at Cuttup

four days, much against the inclination of my guards; suffering during

that period, and indeed for several days after, more dreadfully than

I can describe.

25th.—Left Cuttup by another route at eight in the morning,

accompanied by two messengers on foot, in lieu of the horsemen, who,

on finding me very tractable, and too ill to make the least exertion,

had thought them strong enough to guard me. After proceeding in a

northerly direction till twelve, reached an insignificant village,

forming part of Cuttup. The country traversed level, but thickly

wooded, and fertile.

26th.—Arose at 6 A.M., and did not halt till ten at night, when

we fixed our tent on a clear space in the midst of a large wood;

vast quantities of bamboo, palm, and cocoa-nut trees growing in

every direction. The asses were very troublesome to-day, having been

annoyed by the forest flies; myriads of which swarm in the woods,

and alight in great numbers on men and animals. These insects bit

the asses so severely that the blood streamed copiously from their

sides and legs, and made them so restive that they frequently flung

off their loads, and rolled themselves on the ground. Being unable to

procure any better provisions, we contented ourselves with a little

boiled corn. Although still very ill, found myself greatly improved.

27th.—At seven in the morning proceeded, and after a fatiguing

journey, reached a Bowchee village, named Cokalo, at 2 P.M. The

inhabitants being very poor, could procure nothing but corn. The

chief of the village had made a fetish, and having roasted a dog,

stewed a large snake in oil and water, and boiled a good deal of

corn, invited his people to a feast, of which they partook freely. A

small bowl of boiled corn, enriched with a portion of the reptile,

and the liquid in which it had been dressed, was sent me from the

chief’s table. Supposing it to be fish on the boiled corn, I ate

a mouthful or two, but there being a peculiar, and not disagreeable

flavour with it, I cursorily asked a person, who stood by my side,

what kind of fish I was eating; but on his telling me it was part

of the snake, I could eat no more. Pascoe, however, was not quite so

fastidious, and consumed the remainder with great relish, declaring

that, in his opinion, it was much superior to dried ling.

28th.—Proceeding this morning at eight, arrived an hour after

on the banks of the Coodoonia; but here it was broader, deeper,

and more rapid than at Cuttup. In attempting to convey, on a small

bamboo raft, one of my portmanteaus to the opposite side, found it

would not bear its weight, and snatched it from the raft just in time

to save it from sinking. Finding it, therefore, dangerous to cross,

till the river became more shallow, I strenuously refused to accede

to the wishes of the messengers, who strongly urged the necessity

of my reaching Zegzeg as quickly as possible; observing, that I

would neither risk my property nor person on so weak and dangerous a

conveyance. They abused me in the most insolent terms, and threatened

to go immediately and inform their king of my refusal to proceed. I

desired them to give my best respects to his Zegzeg majesty, and told

them they were at liberty to go as soon as they pleased. They left

me in great anger, cursing me as they went; whilst I slowly proceeded

with my horses and asses to the village we had left in the morning.

Whether the messengers did or did not go to Zegzeg I cannot tell,

but they did not return till the 11th July following. I remained all

that time in the village, very ill, with nothing to eat but boiled

corn, not by any means relishing their roasted dogs. The inhabitants,

who came by hundreds each day to visit me, were destitute of apparel

of any kind, but, nevertheless, behaved in a modest and becoming

manner. The men did not appear to have any occupation or employment

whatever, and spent their time in loitering about the village. The

women were generally engaged most of the day in manufacturing an

oil from a small black seed and the guinea nut.

July 11th.—The messengers being returned, came to me, and, in a very

submissive tone, requested me to accompany them, as the king did not

think it proper to permit me to go any where until I had first seen

him. Accordingly I loaded my beasts, and followed them a second time

to the river, but found it still much too deep to walk through; and

one bamboo raft being too small to bear a heavy article, I caused two

to be lashed together, which answered the purpose extremely well. The

portmanteaus, &c. were first taken over; and I, laying myself flat

on my face, was next ferried across by the two messengers, who swam

behind, and dexterously propelled it forward with their hands. The

horses and asses were not quite so fortunate; the current being

strong and rapid, they were borne by it nearly a quarter of a mile

from the place at which they entered the water. Every thing being

at length safely landed on the opposite side, at 11 P.M. left the

banks of the river, and pursuing a north-east course till sunset,

pitched our tent on a rising ground near a small stream. The asses

have been again troublesome the whole of the way.

12th.—Leaving at half-past six in the morning, pitched our tent

outside a small walled town called Accoran, the first I had seen

since leaving Nammaleek, at two in the afternoon. The west end of

the town is defended by an immense naked rock, and the other parts

by a mud wall and a deep ditch. It is inhabited by Bowchee people,

miserably poor, who could not sell us even a single goat or fowl. A

thunder-storm came on this afternoon, with its usual violence,

accompanied with vivid lightning and floods of rain, which continued

the whole of the night.

13th.—Started at eight in the morning, and reached Cowroo at three

in the afternoon. The country traversed differed but little from that

previously mentioned. The palm and cocoa-nut trees, however, which

had been so plentiful since leaving Cuttup, suddenly disappeared,

and I saw no more of them till our arrival near the sea-coast in

Yariba. Crossed several streams in the day, and numerous steep and

craggy but low mountains lay on our left and right, on the very

summits of which small villages are built; the roads leading to them

must be extremely dangerous. Remained here three days, in order to

refresh my men and beasts. The chief is a fine looking man, and was

very neatly dressed in a plain white tobe and trousers, his feet bare,

and stained red. I gave him an old piece of carpeting, a scarlet cap,

white turban, and a gilt chain, in return for abundance of excellent

provisions, &c. The inhabitants of the town are principally Houssa

people.

17th.—Started at seven in the morning, and keeping a north-east

course, reached a large river called Makammee, running southerly,

which derives its name from a town at a short distance. Were

ferried across in a canoe, which cost one hundred needles and

sixty cowries. On landing on the opposite side, suddenly altered

our route to due east, and arrived at the town of Makammee, at two

in the afternoon. Sent the chief a paper of unwrought silk, fifty

needles, and a pair of scissors, which he was very grateful for,

and returned me two fish, weighing seven or eight pounds each,

and plenty of other provisions.

18th.—At six in the morning proceeded, and travelling north by east

till twelve at noon, halted at Wautorah, another walled town. The

chief sent me some _tuah_ and corn; but there being no poultry

to be had, shot a few pigeons, which surprised and terrified the

inhabitants to an alarming degree. Gave the chief a pair of scissors

and a hundred needles.

19th.—This morning, it being damp and foggy, Mahomet and the

two messengers refused to proceed, and told me I might go alone,

thinking to detain me in the town till it would be too late to leave

this day; but ordering Pascoe and his wife to assist me, loaded the

beasts, and went on without them. Unfortunately the path leading to

some gardens belonging to the inhabitants of Wautorah misled me. I

had gone some distance when, discovering my mistake, instead of

returning to the beaten track the way I came, crossed the country

in order to save time; but owing to the marshy nature of the ground,

and the swamps, which were numerous, did not get into the proper path

till four in the afternoon; when, after travelling two hours on it,

the beast became fatigued and exhausted, in consequence of which

fixed the tent by the road-side; and being much distressed for water,

luckily slaked my thirst from some which, oozing from the fissures

of a neighbouring rock, I was enabled to obtain in small quantities.

20th.—At six in the morning proceeded on the path, and crossing

a large river running to the south at one, entered a spacious town

named Eggebee at two in the afternoon; the chief of which is one

of the king of Zegzeg’s principal fighting men. Eggebee is an

extremely neat as well as large town, surrounded with a high wall, and

situated in the centre of a fine and highly-cultivated plain. Nothing

can be more beautiful than the appearance of the country for miles

round. Lofty trees, covered with the most beautiful foliage, casting

their welcome shade along the earth; plots of ground, planted with

corn, every here and there enriching the landscape, and vegetation

springing up at every step in the richest luxuriance, afforded a

gratifying and delightful relief to the sameness of African scenery,

which is welcomed with emotions of pleasure that a person who has

never wandered in these regions can never know. The town contains

six or seven thousand inhabitants, who are all dressed with peculiar

neatness; while the cleanliness they display, both in their huts

and persons, strongly reminded me of my own far-distant country.

21st.—Left Eggebee at six in the morning, and travelling till two

in the afternoon, were obliged to fix our tent in the midst of a

wood, the asses being completely exhausted. No village being near,

could obtain no provisions. Our course this day was northerly.

22d.—Started at five in the morning, and entered Zegzeg at twelve

at noon. The country the whole of the way from the “bush” is rich

and fertile, principally laid out in gardens. The king of Zegzeg did

not see me this day, but ordered me to lodge at the house of Abbel

Crême, in which my late master and myself stopped on our way to

Kano. In the evening plenty of provisions were sent by the king.

23d.—Visited the king this morning, taking with me four yards of

blue, and the same quantity of scarlet damask; four yards of blue

and scarlet silk, a gilt chain, six prints, among which is one of

his majesty, and another of the duke of York, two pair of scissors,

a quire of paper, a scarlet cap, six yards of white muslin, and a

blank drawing book. This present pleased him highly; and not long

after my return to my lodgings, he sent me two fine bullocks. The

chief subsequently told me that the reason for his ordering me to

be brought back to Zegzeg was on account of the war between Sultan

Bello and the king of Funda, who would murder me as soon as he had

me in his power, for having taken presents to his powerful enemy:

it was therefore doing me a great act of favour. Abbel Crême, my

host, thought it necessary for me to give something to the king’s

eldest son: I accordingly presented him, shortly afterwards, with

two yards of blue and scarlet damask, an unwritten journal-book,

half a canister of powder, a quire of paper, and a gilt chain. The

prince is a remarkably fine and handsome young man, about twenty-two

years of age, and was particularly kind to me. As an especial mark

of favour, he took me into his inner apartments to see his wives,

fifty in number, who, on my entrance, were all sitting in the shade

outside their huts, and industriously occupied in preparing cotton,

making thread, and weaving it into cloth. The prince said, “I have

brought the Christian to see you.” They no sooner looked up than

they all instantly dropped their work, and ran, or rather flew, into

their coozies, and I saw no more of them. Four of these ladies reside

together in one coozie. In the course of the day the prince offered

me a young female slave, named Aboudah, for a wife! I accepted of

her with gratitude, as I knew she would be serviceable to me on my

journey, and I should also have the satisfaction of giving her her

freedom on arriving at the sea-coast. Mahomet came to me to-day,

having just returned from Wantorah; but he had used me so ill that

I immediately discharged him. I had seen enough to convince me that

no dependence could be placed on the fidelity of hired domestics;

I therefore purchased a young slave named Jowdie for seven dollars,

to supply Mahomet’s place. The asses being nearly worn out with

our long and fatiguing journey, and wanting at least twenty days to

recruit their strength, I thought it better to exchange them for a

strong Yariba pony that remained in Zegzeg for so long a time. This

pony, with the pack bullock the king had given me, were fully equal

to supply the place of the asses. Presented Abbel Crême with an

unwrought journal-book, a turban, and a scarlet cloth cap. Both

the king and his son were at the wars when we passed through their

territories on our way to Kano; and it was in order to gratify their

curiosity, I verily believe, that I was so unfortunately stopped on

my journey to Funda. Asked and obtained permission of the king to

proceed to-morrow.

FROM ZEGZEG TO BADAGRY.

24th.—Left at 6 A.M., and halted at Wauree at 3 P.M., fixing the

tent within the walls.

25th.—Arose at the same hour, and entered Fatica at four in the

afternoon. The king of Zegzeg had sent a messenger to the chief of

this town, desiring him to provide us with an escort to conduct us

through a wood which was infested with robbers.

26th.—Rested at Fatica to-day, the chief supplying us with abundance

of provisions, &c. Gave him two yards of scarlet silk, a cloth cap

of the same colour, two pair of scissors, and a hundred needles.

27th.—Left at eight o’clock in the morning, escorted by eight

armed men on horseback and four on foot, passed unmolested through

the wood, and pitched our tent near Kazigee, at 7 P.M. Giving the

men fifty needles each for their trouble, I ordered them to return

to Fatica. We had now left the Houssa country, and entered Guarie.

28th.—Previous to leaving Kazigee, a tax of 600 cowries, or a

present was demanded, before we could go on: preferred paying the

money; and, travelling till three in the afternoon, halted near

Maccondie, a small walled town. Here I fell in with a gaffle of

merchants on their way to Coulfo. Purchased a small goat of them

for 1800 cowries.

29th.—Left the town at six in the morning, and at twelve at noon

fixed our tent outside the walls of the city of Guarie, the king

of which sent me a quantity of stewed beef, a calabash of honey,

and milk and tuah.

30th.—Unable to cross the river to-day.

31st.—Waited on the king this morning, and gave him three yards

of light blue damask, the same quantity of blue and scarlet silk,

an unwritten journal-book, and a red cap. To one of the chief men a

red cap and a hundred needles. The old king asked the reason of my

having been so long on the road from Kano, as merchants had told him

I had left a great while ago. I answered I had attempted the route

to Funda, it being much nearer to my country than any other. He

observed, in reply, that if I wished to go that way then, he would

send a messenger with me, and had no doubt of my reaching Funda

in safety, the king of that place being his particular friend. I

expressed much regret at not being able to embrace his kind offer,

telling him my presents were nearly exhausted, and I had nothing good

enough to give the king: on this account I felt no inclination to pass

through his dominions. The king of Guarie had a eunuch in his service

who was born not far from Funda. This man, at the instigation of his

sovereign, came to see me, and I had a long conversation with him,

in the course of which he stated his native place was Gibboo, on the

banks of the Niger, four or five days’ journey from Funda. He was

given as a slave to the king of the latter place, who had sent him

to his present master. He had gone by water from Gibboo to Funda in

eight days, the river running five knots an hour against him. The

voyage from Funda to Gibboo might easily be done in three or at most

four days. Fell in with a party of merchants in the town to-day,

so far on their journey to Coulfo, who begged me to accompany them,

observing that the road to that place was rendered dangerous by

banditti, who had lately committed many excesses. Fearing there

might be some truth in these reports, I waited for them three days;

but not having then paid the accustomed duty, and not seeming to have

the least inclination to depart, I preferred risking the dangers of

the route to remaining any longer in Guarie.

August 2d.—Paid my respects to the king this evening, who wished

me to take a messenger as far as Womba; but declined his generous

offer, observing I was not afraid to proceed with my own small party,

and would not put him to any trouble or inconvenience.

3d.—At half-past five in the morning left Guarie, and reached

Fullindushie at two in the afternoon.

4th.—Heavy rain the whole of the day, which disabled us from taking

down the tent.

5th.—Leaving Fullindushie at six in the morning, pitched our tent

outside the walled town of Kazzagebubba at four in the afternoon. The

chief sent tuah and corn to us; but not being market-day, apologized

for having nothing better. A red cap and a pair of scissors made

him quite proud.

6th.—Started at the same hour as yesterday, and crossing a large

river in a canoe at three in the afternoon, pitched our tent in the

midst of about fifty small uninhabited grass huts, erected by a party

of merchants, as a temporary abode, some months before. In the night,

the mosquitoes were so numerous and troublesome that we were obliged

to set fire to the huts to drive them away.

7th.—Took down our tent at six in the morning, and travelling till

six in the evening, arrived at Womba, a large town, surrounded by a

high wall. The chief sent us fowls, rice, milk, and a bowl of honey,

with corn, &c. for the horses. Being in want of money, sent needles to

the market to sell, which fetched fifteen cowries each, and brought

me in the whole 3,400 cowries. Presented the chief with two yards

of scarlet and blue silk, a scarlet cap, and a pair of scissors.

8th.—This day paid my respects to the king, who insisted on sending

a messenger with me, declaring the roads to be dangerous and unsafe

without a guide.

9th.—At six in the morning left Womba, accompanied by the messenger;

and at six in the evening, crossing a large river, halted on the

south side, and fixed our tent amidst a number of grass huts,

similar to those mentioned on the sixth. In the night burnt them

to the ground, in order to destroy the mosquitoes and vermin, which

annoyed us exceedingly.

10th.—Started at the same hour as yesterday, and halted in the town

of Beari at 2 P.M. Instead of journeying in a south-west direction to

Youri, took another road, and kept due south, having been informed

that a party of merchants had been plundered, and many of them

murdered, on the road I intended taking. The chief sent me a sheep,

a Muscovy duck, a quantity of yams, and some beer made from Indian

corn. Returned him one yard of scarlet and blue silk, a scarlet

cap, and four prints, which much delighted him. As soon as one of

the head men was aware of my approach to the king’s residence, he

blew a shrill and loud blast through a long brass trumpet, the noise

of which brought all the principal male inhabitants to the spot,

who entered the hut, and seated themselves in a circle round their

sovereign and myself. The chief is a fine looking man, apparently

about fifty years of age, with a noble expression of countenance,

and a commanding air. The coozie into which I was introduced is

the largest I had ever seen in Africa, being not less, I should

think, than eighty yards in circumference. A man stood by the side

of the chief while I remained, who repeated to him what I had to

say, and the answers were returned to me by the same individual:

this singular custom is, I believe, peculiar to Beari, as I never

observed it in any other town in Africa. The chief asked the usual

questions about my king and country. The town is surrounded by a high

wall and a deep ditch, and contains about four thousand inhabitants,

some of whom had seen us before at Womba.

11th.—At six in the morning continued our journey, and arrived at

Ragada at two in the afternoon. Remained outside the walls, in order

that the horses might feed on the rich grass which grew in abundance

on the spot. The chief wished me to lodge with him in the town;

but, for the reason above stated, did not accept his invitation. The

walls of the town are about three miles in circumference.

12th.—In passing through the town this morning, at 6 A.M., waited

on the chief, who was delighted to see me, and gave me a sheep,

some fowls, and a jar of gear (a beer made from Indian corn), and

offered me a messenger, which I declined. Journeyed onwards without

halting, till we pitched our tent a little to the west of Wittesa, at

three in the afternoon. It began to rain about an hour after leaving

Ragada, and continued with great violence till after sunset. Although

the portmanteaus were defended by a thick bullock’s hide, every

thing in them, with the exception of the papers, became completely

soaked. Here I met with a party of merchants going to Koulfa.

13th.—Remained here to-day to dry our tent, clothes, &c. Boussa

Jack, the horse which was presented to my late master by the king

of Boussa, became dangerously ill. I bled him profusely, and in the

evening he was much revived. Sold an unwritten journal-book and a

few needles for 2000 cowries.

A man from the town in a state of intoxication came to my tent this

evening, with a calabash of bum, and insisted, in an insolent tone,

that I should come out and drink with him. Being busily engaged in

packing up the articles that had been put out to dry, I did not choose

to oblige him so far. When he found I had no inclination to leave

the tent, he said he was determined to come in. Wishing to intimidate

the fellow, I took a loaded pistol, and went to him, threatening to

shoot him unless he immediately left the place; but this, instead

of having the desired effect, only exasperated him the more; and

flourishing a long spear he had with him over his head, as quick as

lightning he made a desperate thrust at me. Slipping a little on one

side, I caught the weapon in my hands, within an inch of my breast,

which saved my life. I was highly incensed at this violent act,

and told the people who stood by, and were spectators of the whole

affair, that if they did not that moment take him from the tent, I

would shoot him in earnest: half a dozen of them accordingly dragged

him away. Next morning the fellow returned, and throwing himself

at my feet, begged I would not inform Sultan Magie of his conduct;

for if it came to his ears he would lose his head. I forgave him,

on condition that he should never get tipsy again.

14th.—Struck our tent at six in the morning, and passing through the

ruins of a large town called Kabojie at twelve at noon, reached Dogo

at three in the afternoon; but stopping only to pay the accustomed

duty, halted a little to the westward of it. In the evening several

respectable females of the town came to the tent, with tuah and

stewed beef, for which I gave them a few beads.

15th.—At seven in the morning proceeded on our route, and arrived at

Coulfo at two in the afternoon. I was met at the gates by the female

in whose house we lodged on our way to Kano, accompanied by the most

respectable of her sex in the town. They expressed the most lively

joy at seeing me; but when I told them that my father was dead,

they were deeply affected, and made loud lamentations. Although

the town was full of merchants, and her own house occupied with

some of them, this kind old woman turned out her lodgers, and gave

me the best apartment in it. These merchants came from Cuttum Kora,

Youri, Kano, Soccatoo, Borgou, and Yariba, to purchase Nyffé cloth,

which is the best in central Africa, iron bits and stirrups, brass

ornaments for saddles and bridles, and brass ear and common rings:

this traffic is carried on to a considerable extent. The good old

chief sent me fowls, tuah, milk, and bum: my hostess gave me a sheep;

and during my stay, this excellent old lady sent me provisions daily.

Remained at Coulfo five days, and finding my Yariba pony, and the

bullock the king of Zegzeg had given me, unfit to bear the fatigues of

a journey to the sea-coast, exchanged the bullock and an old Turkish

jacket for a couple of asses; but could not dispose of the pony,

although I offered to sell him for a dollar. The morning before my

departure found poor little Boussa Jack dead outside my hut. It was

with the utmost reluctance my hostess would part with me; and I left

her with a promise of returning in two years. She gave me an order

to purchase looking-glasses, &c. for her on my arrival in England,

which I was to bring with me; all which I promised to do. Gave her a

dollar to make a ring, and half a yard of scarlet damask. I took to

the old chief a scarlet cap and one of my late master’s turbans,

and begged he would not compel me to visit Sultan Magie at Sanson,

as I had nothing to give him. He replied, if I did not wish to visit

the sultan, to leave as soon as possible, or he might send messengers

for me. Sold 5000 cowries worth of needles to assist me on my journey.

20th.—Having paid my respects to the king last evening, left Coulfo,

in high spirits and good health, at six in the morning, and halted

outside Makonja at five in the afternoon. Here I found a party of

merchants going to Gonja, near Ashantee, for gora nuts. Unable to

procure any kind of provisions in the town, I took my gun and shot

a heron; not being aware that this, being a fetish bird, is allowed

to be eaten only by the chiefs. On being made acquainted with the

circumstance, one of the principal inhabitants came with a loaded

gun, and threatened to shoot me, making use of the most abusive

language. I dared him to fire, and said I should complain to Sultan

Magie of his conduct.

21st.—Early this morning, the person who had threatened to shoot

me yesterday came to beg my pardon, excusing his conduct on the

plea of being intoxicated with drinking too much bum. At six in the

morning continued our route, and at twelve at noon halted at Dalho,

on the banks of the river Quontakora. At 3 P.M. every thing was

safely landed on the opposite side; and journeying till sunset,

reached the foot of a hill five miles to the east of the Niger,

and rested there for the night. The country traversed to-day was

one continued swamp, the mud and water frequently reaching up to

the asses’ side. Rained continually throughout the day.

22d.—At nine in the morning left the hill, and at eleven at noon

came to the river Niger, which was full one hundred yards wider

than we found it on our way to Soccatoo. After waiting an hour,

a canoe came to fetch us; but we did not get over till two in

the afternoon, the horses, &c. being obliged, by reason of the

rapidity of the current, to be ferried across in the canoe. My

poor slave Jowdie, never having in all his life seen so large a

body of water before, became greatly agitated, and was afraid to

cross. Getting him at length, after much persuasion, into the canoe,

he reached the other side, but fainted the moment he put his foot

on terra firma. We landed at Inguazhilligee, where the principal

inhabitants pressed us to remain; but having no presents to offer,

declined stopping. Expecting to reach a village in the evening, made

all possible haste to get out of the town; but at six o’clock,

P.M. the asses being quite spent, were obliged to fix our tent on

a marshy spot in the midst of a bush. The roads were horribly bad,

through swampy ground, and could only travel two miles an hour. This

evening, as well as the two former ones, went to rest without food.

23rd.—At six in the morning, proceeding on similar roads, and

having heavy rain, reached a small village at one, and were obliged

to remain there for the day to give the asses a little rest. The

poor animals had stuck in bogs seven times in the morning, each of

which times the loads were taken from their backs, and they themselves

dragged with much difficulty and loss of time out of their unpleasant

situation. None of the poor inhabitants of the village understanding

the Houssa language, I entered a hut, the door of which was open,

and giving the inmates a few beads, made signs with my hands that we

stood in need of provisions and rest. One small lean fowl, however,

was all that could be procured from them; but having the good fortune

to shoot a guinea-fowl, made a tolerable meal, and slept soundly.

24th.—At seven in the morning left the village, and journeying till

3 P.M., halted at the pleasant town of Wowow, one of the handsomest,

if not the handsomest, in the interior of Africa. It had taken us

two days and a half on the road from Inguazhilligee, while in the

dry season we did it with ease in one.

25th.—Took the old king a present, consisting of four yards of

scarlet and four yards of blue damask, four yards of scarlet silk,

a cap of the same colour, and a white turban. Though overjoyed to

see me at first, he was much distressed on mentioning the death of

Captain Clapperton at Soccatoo. He wondered at my being alive, after

visiting the Fellata country, the inhabitants of which he described as

the most barbarous in the world; said my preservation was miraculous,

and that I was certainly one of God’s favourites. I was obliged to

comply with his request, which was tantamount to a command, to remain

with him a few days to clean seven muskets and three pistols, which

he afterwards told me belonged to the white men who were drowned at

Boussa. They have the Tower mark on them.

26th.—Solicited and obtained permission to visit Boussa, to pay

my respects to its king.

27th.—At five in the morning, accompanied by Pascoe, proceeded on

the road to Boussa; but, after journeying till six in the evening,

had only got half way. The country is full of bogs and swamps, which

in some places took the horses up to their saddles in mud and wet; and

Pascoe being the worst rider I ever saw, was soused in them more than

a hundred times. The remaining part of the road appearing still more

difficult and dangerous, found it impossible to proceed any further.

28th.—Returned to Wowow.

29th.—The king sent me a goat, cut up into small pieces, and

a large bowl of tuah, to make a _sadacco_ for my poor master; a

ceremony common in many places in the interior, on the decease of any

person of consequence. The pieces of goat and the bowl of tuah are

sent to the mallam or priest, who repeats a short prayer over them:

it is however necessary, before this can be performed, to place a

gold or silver coin, or at least an article made of either of those

metals, on the top of the bowl. Having no coin I could part with,

I put a silver pencil-case in its stead, which was never returned

me. After the prayer has been pronounced over the tuah and goat’s

flesh, they are sent back to the person to whom they belong; and

any one who is disposed comes and eats; each person, before tasting,

repeating this pious ejaculation, “God send him safe to heaven!”

The goat’s flesh and tuah sent to me were soon consumed.

30th.—Having finished cleaning the muskets and pistols, asked the

chief permission to leave Wowow. The old man, smiling, told me not

half my business was done; he wanted six charms, which I alone could

write. These charms were to be worn on his person, and to possess the

following virtues: 1st charm. If his enemies thought of making war

on him, it would cause them to forget to put it in practice. 2d. If

they should be on their way to his city, for the purpose of warring,

it would turn them back. 3d. If they should discharge their arrows

at his people, when close to the city walls, it would cause them to

rebound in their own faces, and wound them. 4th. It was the province

of this charm to prevent his guns from bursting. 5th, was to preserve

the person who might hold the gun from receiving any injury, should

it unfortunately explode. The 6th and last charm was to make him

the happiest and most successful of men.

31st.—Carried the charms to the king, on which I had written

scraps of old English ballads, which made him in the best humour in

the world.

September 1st.—The king still wished to detain me longer, and

insisted on my selling or giving him my gun and pistols, the only

arms I had left. I endeavoured to soften him by every means in my

power; but finding him firm in his determination of having the gun,

and at least one of the pistols, and knowing resistance would be

ridiculous, I sent them to him, leaving it entirely to his generosity

to give what he thought proper. The liberal-minded chief shortly

afterwards returned 4,000 cowries (worth little more than a dollar),

as a sufficient remuneration for the gun and pistol, but made me a

present the next day of a beautiful little mare.

3d.—Early in the morning the old chief desired to see me before I

left, and obtained from me a promise to return to him after having

visited my own country. He showed me various patterns of silk for a

tobe I was to bring from England for him; and said, as I was going

out of the apartment, “Your countrymen may come here, and build a

town, and trade up and down the Niger: we know now that they are good

men, but we did not think so when the white men who were drowned

at Boussa were in the country.” He kept me with him till nine

o’clock in the morning, when, on going to my hut, I found a party

of merchants waiting for me, whom the kind old chief had detained

on purpose that they might accompany me to Khiama (which had been

concealed from me entirely), the roads to that city being infested

with bands of robbers. Crossed the river Auli at twelve at noon. The

current being very rapid, we had extreme difficulty in getting over;

but no accident occurred, and we fixed our tent on the south bank of

the river. In the evening the mallam, or priest of the merchants,

came to my tent, and gave me the following account of Mungo Park

and his unfortunate companions:

“You are not, Christian, the first white man I have seen. I knew

three of your countrymen very well. They arrived at Youri at the fast

of the Rhamadan (April). I went with two of them three times to the

sultan. The person that appeared to be the head of the party made

the sultan a valuable present on one of his visits, which consisted

of a handsome gun, a cutlass, a large piece of scarlet cloth, a great

quantity of beads, several knives, and a looking-glass. He was a very

tall and powerful man, with long arms and large hands, on which he

wore leather gloves reaching above the elbows. Wore a white straw

hat, long coat, full white trousers, and red leather boots. Had

black hair and eyes, with a bushy beard and mustachios of the same

colour. The sultan of Youri advised your countrymen to proceed the

remainder of the way on land, as the passage by water was rendered

dangerous by numerous sunken rocks in the Niger, and a cruel race of

people inhabiting the towns on its banks. They refused, however, to

accede to this, observing that they were bound to proceed down the

Niger to the Salt Water.” The old mallam further observed that,

“as soon as the sultan of Youri heard of their death, he was much

affected; but it was out of his power to punish the people who had

driven them into the water. A pestilence reaching Boussa at the time,

swept off the king and most of the inhabitants, particularly those

who were concerned in the transaction. The remainder, fancying it was

a judgment of the white man’s God, placed every thing belonging to

the Christians in a hut, and set it on fire.” It is not a little

remarkable that it is now a common saying, all through the interior

of Africa, “Do not hurt a Christian, for if you do, you will die

like the people of Boussa.” The old man left me shortly afterwards;

and I thanked him for his information thus voluntarily given.

4th.—At nine in the morning left the bank of the river, and

at two in the afternoon fixed our tent in a bush. Proceeded

this day by ourselves, the merchants not being ready to start in

time. Notwithstanding the account the king of Wowow had given me of

the dangers of the road, we were not molested in our journey.

5th.—At six in the morning were again in motion, and halted at

four in the afternoon in a small town called Gorkie. This day one

of the asses was taken suddenly ill on the road, and it was with the

utmost difficulty we could drag him to the halting place. The chief

of the town, at the instigation of the king of Wowow, supplied us

abundantly with fowls, rice, yams, &c. Gave him a pair of scissors

and a few needles.

6th.—Finding the ass that was taken ill yesterday unable to proceed

any farther, was obliged to leave him behind. On seeing his companion

going away, the poor animal brayed most piteously, and made many

ineffectual attempts to rise. At six in the morning left the town,

and after sunset came to a number of grass huts, similar to those

mentioned before; in the largest of which we rested for the night,

and did not fix the tent. On crossing a river, apparently very narrow,

to-day, my horse unexpectedly sunk several feet in mud and sand,

and his legs becoming entangled in the roots of some trees lying at

the bottom, fell on his side, and plunging violently, threw me off

his back; but not being able to get one of my feet from the stirrup,

lay several seconds under water, in a most perilous and distressed

state. Freeing myself at length from the stirrup, I got out much

exhausted, and succeeded in extricating the horse also from his

no less unpleasant situation. Some merchants told me afterwards at

Khiama, that I might think myself highly fortunate in escaping so

easily, the river being filled with large crocodiles.

7th.—Started at six in the morning, and arrived at Yaro after

sunset. The chief made us the usual presents of provisions, &c. A

dreadful hurricane came on about nine o’clock in the evening,

which lasted three hours, when it became awfully still and calm. The

storm was unusually violent, and tore up large trees by the roots;

the peals of thunder were fearfully loud, and shook the ground on

which our tent was fixed; while large masses of fire, falling from the

heavens, added not a little to this scene of devastation and terror.

8th.—Heavy rain all day; unable to proceed.

9th.—At half-past six in the morning continued our journey,

and at noon entered the city of Khiama. Went immediately to the

king’s residence, who, as soon as he saw me, asked how I dared to

come into his town without having previously sent him a messenger to

inform him of my approach. I answered I had sent one of his own men,

three or four days before, to acquaint him of it. “That is of no

consequence,” he continued; “you should have sent another this

morning. Get on horseback directly, and return an hour and a half’s

journey the way you came: on arriving there, send me a messenger,

and I will order a sufficient escort to conduct you into the city,

in a manner deserving your rank and respectability.” I was in

the act of obeying this odd mandate, when he bawled after me: “I

forgive you this time, Christian, but never be so remiss again.”

The chief is an eccentric but friendly kind of man, and regretted

very much my father’s death, which had been told him some days

before by a merchant. He had heard the Fellatas had behaved very

roughly to us, and had robbed us; but asked what business we had

at Soccatoo? I told him we were at Kano, on our road to Bornou,

when Sultan Bello sent for us, and we were obliged in consequence to

visit him. He offered to send me safely to Bornou, and said he was

tributary to the sheik. I replied, that Bello had taken the presents

intended for him, and that I had none left worthy so great a prince,

therefore could not accept his kind offer. My present to the chief

consisted of a silk sword-sash, three yards of scarlet and blue

damask, the same quantity of blue silk, a red cap, two pairs of

scissors, and a hundred needles. I likewise gave him my old tent,

which was full of holes, and quite useless.

Remained at Khiama five days, during which time the queen’s

treatment was kind and generous, supplying us every day with excellent

provisions in great abundance. The day before my departure the king

gave me a strong pony; and observed that, “if my king wished,

at any future period, to send any one to Bornou, he would conduct

him there by a safe route, without the necessity of going through

the Fellata country.” The king of Khiama is, without exception,

the finest and handsomest man we had seen in Africa (far superior

to Bello); and, with the exception of the king of Yariba, was most

respectably dressed.

14th.—At six in the morning left Khiama, and halted in Subia at

one at noon. The country traversed is full of bogs, which caused the

horses to fall repeatedly with their riders. The chief of this town

gave me a goat and some yams, by command of the king of Khiama’s

messenger.

15th.—Started at six in the morning, and travelled the whole of

the day, till ten at night, when we rested in a bush.

16th.—Crossing a creek at 6 A.M. arrived at Mossa, a town situated

on the banks of a river of the same name, which divides Yariba from

Borgoo. The river was overflown, and the current strong and rapid;

in consequence of which the people of the town were afraid to ferry

us over. No food of any kind this day.

17th.—Asked the king of Khiama’s messenger why he was so much

afraid of crossing the water, observing that I had myself swam across

many larger and more rapid rivers; and among others mentioned the

Niger. The man, in great trepidation, begged me, as I valued my life,

not to mention the names of rivers in the hearing of the Mossa,

who was a female river, and had many rivals in the affections of

the Niger, who was her husband. She had a capricious, jealous, and

cruel disposition; and if I ventured to place myself in her power,

she would certainly swallow me up, as I had spoken slightingly of

her. She was continually quarrelling with her husband, thinking

he was too familiar with other rivers; and where they met they

made the “devil’s own noise” with their disputes. I roared

with laughter when the man had done speaking, at the loves of the

Niger, which made him very angry, and I had much to do to pacify

him. Being unable to procure provisions of any kind in the village,

went to the chief, and wished to know whether he intended to starve

us. The old scoundrel had a garden in which he grew a quantity of

yams; but he refused to sell me any, asserting that he had none for

himself. I then asked leave for Pascoe to cut grass in his garden

for the horses, suspecting his yams might be hid in some part of it:

this he sulkily granted. In the evening Pascoe returned with a bundle

of grass, concealed in which were several yams he had had the good

fortune to discover. If this had not been the case, I really believe

we should all have died of hunger.

18th.—Went again to the chief in the morning, and demanded something

to eat. He solemnly declared he was himself starving, and could get

nothing to eat. I then pressed him to send his canoe to the opposite

side for provisions: after much intreaty he consented to do so,

but first made a charm that it might not be injured in its perilous

voyage. For this purpose he killed a fetish fowl, sprinkled its blood

in the river, placed some of the entrails in the bow of the canoe, and

in the stern put a broken egg: he then muttered several expressions

I did not understand; and a man was sent over with the boat, which

arrived there in safety; but in returning loaded with poultry and

yams, it ran foul of a tree which unluckily lay in the middle of the

stream, and sunk immediately, in consequence of which the whole cargo

was lost. The chief informed me of the accident, and said that the

river could not be crossed in safety for three or four days. Pascoe

returned in the evening with more of the chief’s yams and grass.

19th, 20th, and 21st.—Nothing to eat on these days but the yams

Pascoe stole from the king’s garden.

22d.—Attempted to cross the river at noon; but did not succeed in

getting every thing on the opposite side till five in the evening. The

horses and asses were borne a quarter of a mile down the stream, and

had nearly perished. Halted at Wantatah, the first town in Yariba,

about two hours after.

23d.—At seven in the morning pursued our journey, and at eleven

entered Hogie, where we remained for the day. The chief gave me a pig,

yams, corn, &c. A red cap and fifty needles fully satisfied him.

24th.—Rested at Hogie to-day.

25th.—Left at six in the morning, and arrived at Katunga, the

capital of Yariba, at seven in the evening. The low grounds were

rendered almost impassable by reason of the rain, which fell in

torrents. On our arrival I was put into the same house we occupied

on our journey into the interior.

26th.—The king would not let me wait on him, fearing it might wet

my feet; and accordingly he visited me with five hundred of his wives

(out of two thousand), and the principal inhabitants of the city. The

wives welcomed my return by singing a simple and plaintive air,

with much pathos and feeling: their voices were sweet and musical;

and the whole had a novel and pleasing effect. Nothing could be heard

but their strains, to which every one listened with the profoundest

attention until the conclusion of the performance. The king expressed

his sorrow for my master’s death; and questioned me very minutely

on the motives that induced us to go into the interior. On telling

him it was to see if there was any thing worth trading for in the

country, he appeared satisfied. He was richly dressed in a scarlet

damask tobe, and a pair of trowsers made of country cloth, scarlet

ground with a blue stripe; the former ornamented with coral beads;

his legs, as far as the knee, were stained red with hennah; and on

his feet he wore red leather sandals. A cap made of blue damask,

thickly studded with coral beads, was on his head; and silver rings

hung round his neck, arms, and legs. I offered him the horse I had

purchased at Kano, a fine animal, that had carried me the whole of

the way from that city: and regretted my inability to make him a more

valuable present; but promised, if he permitted two messengers to

accompany me to the sea-coast, I would send him something else. In the

evening I received a goat and a great quantity of yams from the king.

27th.—The king having desired me to call on some of his head men,

I waited on the master of the horse, and two others. The former

gave me a goat and a bottle of honey. I remarked I was very poor,

and could make him no return.

30th.—I informed the king I was short of money, on which he

generously sent me a duck and four thousand cowries (little more

than a dollar). The eunuch, the king’s head man, begged of me

my remaining pistol, two dollars, and a scarlet cap, which I was

necessitated to give him. He also wanted my ass to make a fetish,

but this I refused to let him have. This evening I sent for the ass

from a neighbouring pasture, when I found the poor animal had been

shot in the side with two poisoned arrows. I have no doubt but this

cruel action was performed at the instigation of the disappointed

eunuch. The beast became a complete skeleton, and after languishing

for six days in great agony, I desired Pascoe and Jowdie to take

him to a short distance, and cut his throat. When the king heard

of the circumstance, he immediately ordered the carcass to be cut

into quarters, and conveyed to his house. After which he ordered

the meat to be dressed, and having assembled his wives and head men,

they regaled themselves on it with peculiar satisfaction. Wishing to

pay for so delicious a treat, the king sent me a goat and a thousand

cowries for the dead ass.

The people of Yariba are not very delicate in the choice of their

food; they eat frogs, monkeys, dogs, cats, rats, mice, and various

other kinds of vermin. A fat dog will always fetch a better price

than a goat. Locusts and black ants, just as they are able to

take wing, are a great luxury. Caterpillars also are held in very

high estimation. The caterpillars are stewed, and eat with yams

and tuah. Ants and locusts are fried in butter, and are said to be

delicious. I could never make up my mind to taste any of these rich

insects; Pascoe, however, is particularly fond of them, and calls

them land-shrimps.

It is a custom in Katunga, when the king dies, for his eldest son,

first wife, and all the head men of the kingdom, to drink poison

over his grave, and are afterwards buried with him. None of the

king’s sons ever come to the throne. After the king’s death,

his successor is chosen from among the wisest persons of the country;

an elderly man is generally preferred.

Remained at Katunga till the 21st of October, when the king gave me

4,000 cowries, and some trona to sell on the road. He ordered his

head messengers to accompany me, with a desire they should command

the chiefs of every town through which we were to pass, to contribute,

according to their means, to our support.

On the 22d of October I left Katunga, and after a rapid and hasty

journey, during which nothing of consequence occurred, arrived at

Engwa on the 9th of November following. I found the railing which

had been placed round the grave of poor captain Pearce washed away

by the rains, and the piece of wood on which I had myself cut out

his name, age, &c. and the day on which he died, either taken off

by the natives, or also washed away by the rains. The only means by

which I recognized the spot was the appearance of the earth, on which

there was no vegetation, and its having sunk five or six inches. I

went to the chief, and giving him half a yard of blue damask, and

a pair of scissors, entreated him to build a house over the spot,

and have it thatched, promising to send him a present from England

in a short time, if he did it. He promised faithfully to erect a

house as soon as the rains were over.

Nov. 12th.—Arrived at Jennah this afternoon, and found the grave of

Dr. Morrison to be in a perfect condition. The king had had it kept

in excellent order, and was to have been rewarded by Mr. Houston,

who himself died shortly afterwards at Accra. In this city the horses

the kings of Wowwow and Khiama had given me, unfortunately died.

Remained two days at Jennah, when we proceeded, and on the 21st

entered Badagry; all the natives on the road from Kano having behaved

remarkably well to us. The country traversed was swampy, and full

of water the greatest part of the way, which rendered travelling

tedious and unpleasant.

The king was glad to see me, gave me his own house, constructed of

bamboo, whilst he himself, much against my inclination, resided in

a small miserable mud hut. Like every other prince on the road,

he was grieved to learn the decease of my master. I gave him my

little horse, which I had brought the whole of the way from Soccatoo,

and all the articles for presents that were left, consisting of two

yards of light blue damask, and the same quantity of scarlet ditto,

two yards of scarlet and blue silk, and two dozen pair of stockings.

On the 28th I waited on captain Morrison, a Portuguese slave-merchant,

and obtained from him goods amounting to ninety-four dollars; and

a barrel of gunpowder, which cost a doubloon, I paid for myself.

Three of the Portuguese slave-merchants residing at Badagry, went

to the king one day, and told him and his principal men that I was

a spy sent by the English government, and if suffered to leave,

would soon return with an army and conquer their country. This

the credulous people believed, and I was treated with coldness and

distrust by the king and his subjects, who seldom came to see me. All

the chief men at length assembled at the fetish hut, and having come

to a resolution that I was to drink a fetish, sent for me to appear

before them. On my way five or six hundred people gathered round me,

and I could proceed with difficulty. A great number of them were armed

with hatchets, bows and arrows, and spears; and waited outside the

hut till I came out. On entering one of the men presenting me with a

bowl, in which was about a quart of a liquid much resembling water,

commanded me to drink it, saying, “If you come to do bad, it will

kill you; but if not, it cannot hurt you.” There being no resource,

I immediately, and without hesitation, swallowed the contents of

the bowl, and walked hastily out of the hut, through the armed men,

to my own lodgings, took powerful medicine and plenty of warm water,

which instantly ejected the whole from my stomach, and I felt no

ill effects from the fetish. It had a bitter and disagreeable taste,

and I was told almost always proved fatal.

When the king and chief men found, after five days, that the fetish

had not hurt me, they became extremely kind, and sent me presents of

provisions, &c. daily, and frequently said I was protected by God,

and that it was out of the power of man to do me an injury.

I remained at Badagry two months, but was advised by the king never

to go out unarmed, as the Portuguese took no pains to conceal their

inveterate dislike to me; and would no doubt assassinate me the first

opportunity that might present itself. Several persons in canoes

passed repeatedly from Badagry to Cape Coast, but although I offered

to reward them, I could never get them to take a note for me to the

latter place, so active had been the exertions of the Portuguese to

debar me from every means of communicating with my countrymen.

There were five factories at Badagry, in which were upwards of one

thousand slaves of both sexes, chained by the neck to each other,

waiting for vessels to take them away.

Captain Morris, of the brig Maria, of London, hearing of my being

at Badagry, kindly came from Whydah to fetch me, and on the 20th

of January I went on board, and arrived at Cape Coast on the 31st

of the same month. Here I gave my faithful slaves, Aboudah, Jowdie,

and Pascoe’s wife their freedom, who testified their sorrow on my

departure by heaping sand on their heads, and other marks of grief

peculiar to the African race. Colonel Lumley generously promised to

give them pieces of ground and a small sum of money, and I have no

doubt they will do well.

Sailed from Cape Coast in the Esk sloop of war February 3d. and

arrived in England the 30th of April following.

THE END.

APPENDIX.

* * * * *

A LIST, OR SUMMARY ACCOUNT, OF THE LATE CAPTAIN CLAPPERTON’S ARABIC

PAPERS, TRANSLATED BY MR. A. V. SALAMÉ.

1. A GEOGRAPHICAL description of the course of the river Cówara,

the road from Soccatoo to Maséna, from Timbuctoo to Soccatoo,

and the countries thereabouts, with their inhabitants, produce,

&c. &c. as delineated in the chart annexed.

2. An account of an expedition of discovery, made some years ago,

by forty Christians, who had built a ship or vessel in the interior

of Africa, and proceeded down the river Cówara.

3. A geographical account of the country, rivers, lakes, &c. from

Bornou to Egypt, Nubia, Sennar, the Nile, its sources, &c. &c.

4. A traditional account of the people and country of Malí, &c. &c.

5. A traditional account of the origin of the Felan tribe, whom we

have hitherto erroneously called “Fellatahs.”

6. A traditional account of the people and country of Bargho, &c. &c.

7. An Itinerary, or the road from Sérá to Nubia, Sennar, and Egypt.

8. A traditional account of the people and country of Nefí, &c. &c.

9. A traditional account of the people and country of Noofy, &c. &c.

* * * * *

No. I.

The following is a translation of the Arabic which was written on the

original _chart_ (as Clapperton calls it), and of which the annexed

is a reduced copy, professing to describe the course of the Cówara

river, the road from Soccatoo to Maséna, and from Timbuctoo, with

the names and geographical description of the towns and countries

adjoining.

A. “Representation of the city of Soccatoo, metropolis of the

Prince of the Believers (Sultan Bello).”

B. “The island and town of Oodel or Goodel, together with the

branch of the river which surrounds them.”

C. “The town of Boory, two days’ journey from Bagrá-foogal.”

D. “The town of Bagrá-foogal, one day’s journey from Ghagró.”

E. “The town of Ghagró, three days’ journey from Toondebí.”

F. “The town of Toondebí, one day’s journey from Sharif.”

G. “The town of Sharif, three days’ journey from Kasbi, or Kasb.”

H. “The town of Kasbi, two days’ journey from Seegho, or Sheeghó.”

I. “The town of Seegho, or Sheeghó, one day’s journey from Kabará.”

J. “The town of Kabará, half a day’s journey from Timbuctoo.”