From the time we left Revigny until we had passed into the
Champagne country, upon the return journey from Verdun, we no
longer saw a green tree or a blade of green grass; we were now
indeed upon the "White Road which leads unto Verdun." Owing to
an exceptionally trying and dry summer the roads are thick with
white dust. The continual passing of the camions, the splendid
transport wagons of the French Army, carrying either food,
munitions, or troops, has stirred up the dust and coated the fields,
trees and hedges with a thick layer of white. It is almost as painful
to the eyes as the snow-fields of the Alps.
I saw one horse that looked exactly like a plaster statuette. His
master had scrubbed him down, but before he dried the white dust
had settled on him everywhere. Naturally humans do not escape.
By the time our party reached the Headquarters of General Petain
we had joined the White Brigade. I excused myself to the General,
who smilingly replied: "Why complain, Mademoiselle, you are
charming; your hair is powdered like that of a Marquise." The
contrast with what had been a black fur cap on what was now
perfectly white hair justified his compliment. I have never been
renowned in my life for fear of any individual, but I must admit that I
passed into the presence of General Petain with a great deal of
respect amounting almost to awe. The defence of Verdun through
the bitter months of February and March by General Petain, a
defence which is now under the immediate control of his able
lieutenants General Nivelle and General Dubois, has earned the
respect and admiration of the whole world. It is impossible not to
feel the deepest admiration for these men who have earned such
undying glory, not only for themselves, but for their Motherland.
No one could have been more gracious and kind than General
Petain, and in his presence one realised the strength and power of
France. Throughout all the French Headquarters one is impressed
by the perfect calm; no excitement; everything perfectly organised.
General Petain asked me at once to tell him what I desired. I
asked his permission to go to Rheims. He at once took up a paper
which permitted me to enter the war zone and endorsed it with the
request to General Debeney in Rheims to allow me to penetrate
with my companions into the city. He then turned to me again and
asked me, with a knowing smile, if that was all I required--for his
Headquarters were hardly on the direct road to Rheims! I hesitated
to express my real wish, when my good counsellor and friend, with
whom I was making the journey, the Commandant Jean de Pulligny,
answered for me: "I feel sure it would be a great happiness and
honour if you would allow us, General, to go to Verdun." General
Petain appeared slightly surprised, and turning to me asked: "Do
you thoroughly realise the danger? You have crossed the Atlantic
and faced submarines, but you will risk more in five minutes in
Verdun than in crossing the Atlantic a thousand times." However,
seeing that I was really anxious to go, and that it might be of great
service to me in my future work to have seen personally the defence
of Verdun, he added smilingly: "Well then, you can go if you wish
at your own risk and peril." He then telephoned to General Nivelle
the necessary permission for us to enter Verdun.
I doubt whether General Petain realises the respect in which he is
held in all the civilised countries of the world. Probably he does not
yet understand that people would come thousands of miles to
have five minutes' audience with him, for he enquired if we were in
any hurry to continue our journey, and added with charming
simplicity--"Because if not, and you do not mind waiting an hour, I
shall be glad if you will lunch with me."