SOUTH COAST.
I had never been west of South Cape, but had often had a desire to
visit Port Moresby. Finding that a vessel was leaving Samarai in a few
days for that place, I decided to embrace the opportunity, as I should
not like to leave New Guinea without having visited it. We passed
"Kerepunu" and "Hula," two native towns built in the sea, and did not
anchor until we reached Moapa, Aroma district.
This latter is the largest and most important district to the westward.
Here I was introduced to the celebrated chief "Koepina."
He can place 4,000 fighting men in the field at a few hours' notice. He
is an old man, very tall and erect, with a Roman nose, austere looking,
and seldom speaks, but like the renowned parrot, "is a devil to think."
Strange to say, in this district and to the west of it the men are
absolutely nude, while the women wear the customary grass petticoat.
All the villages have a high palisade fence facing the sea, and
extending the whole length of the beach. This acts as a break-wind.
Koepina frequently makes a raid on tribes in the adjoining districts
and generally returns successful. The natives of this part speak the
Motu language. I spent some time on shore and visited several of the
villages.
The natives of Moapa, at the instigation of Koepina, have committed
many murders, which in their opinion, is something to be proud of.
We then proceeded to Port Moresby, having taken seven days on the trip.
The distance from Samarai is 350 miles. Port Moresby is the
headquarters of the London Missionary Society. The site of the mission
station was selected by Messrs. Lawes and Macfarlane, the pioneer
missionaries of New Guinea, in the year 1873. The Rev. W. G. Lawes had
for many years been a missionary in the South Seas, and therefore was
well fitted for the work. A few years later the Rev. James Chalmers
joined the mission, and at the close of the year 1885 the Rev. Dr.
Macfarlane severed his connection with New Guinea and left for England,
where he now resides. The mission has been established sixteen years,
and taking into consideration the enormous difficulties of the
undertaking, the result may be deemed satisfactory. Whether they have
succeeded in making any real converts to Christianity is a question I
prefer leaving open. Certain it is that in districts where their
influence has extended, the danger from the hostile acts of the natives
has been considerably lessened.
In the first years of its existence Port Moresby was very unhealthy,
many of those engaged in the work of the mission falling victims to
malarial fever. The health of the place has since improved, and at the
present time it is one of the healthiest on the coast.
The harbour forms a large bay, at the head of which stands the Mission
Station, consisting of numerous buildings: the dwelling-houses of the
leading missionaries, school-houses, a large building in which the
services are held, and two or three small houses. To the right of the
Mission Station, on a prominent rise, is "Government House," the
residence of Sir Wm. Macgregor.
On the east side of the bay, and near the entrance, are situated the
various Government buildings--the Court House, the Colonial Secretary's
Department, and beyond these a general store kept by Mr. Andrew Goldie,
a lock-up under the charge of Messrs. Belford and Gleeson, and the
dwelling-house of the Judge (Mr. Winter), in which also is the
Government Printing Office, where the various official "Gazettes" are
published under the superintendence of Mr. J. G. Allen, Government
printer.
Below the "Mission Station" stands the native town, "Hanuabada," which
contains about 400 inhabitants, and is built in the sea.
The climate of Port Moresby is very dry, and the soil poor. Nothing
will grow there, not even yams, so that the natives suffer much from a
scarcity of food. The women are very skilful manufacturers of pottery,
tastefully ornamented and designed. At certain times of the year they
take the pottery in their trading canoes far to the westward, where
they exchange it for cargoes of sago.
The back country is very mountainous until the valley of the "Laroki"
is reached, when a decided change for the better is noticeable.
Instead of barrenness there is fertility. Good pasturage is found, and
cultivation commences. The Laroki River is about 17 miles from Port
Moresby. After crossing the "Laroki" the country again becomes
mountainous and rugged, and is inhabited by numerous hill tribes, both
fierce and warlike.
A month previous to my arrival in Port Moresby, viz., July 1st, 1889,
Sir Wm. Macgregor had returned from his successful ascent of Mount Owen
Stanley.
I saw him on board the S.S. _Merrie England_. He had altered somewhat.
He had lost two stone in weight and had a worn appearance; otherwise he
was in good health.
As Sir Wm. Macgregor has penetrated further inland than any other white
man, and has scaled the highest mountain in British New Guinea, the
following abridged extract from his report of the journey will, no
doubt, be interesting.
* * * * *
"I left Port Moresby on the 20th April, 1889, in my boat, manned with a
native crew, accompanied by my staff, and proceeded along the coast to
Manumanu. On the 22nd we entered one of the mouths of the Vanapa River,
which opens into Galley Reach on its eastern side, about five miles
from Manumanu. We got some seven or eight miles up the river the first
day, having the tidal water for three or four miles; but beyond that
point the river was swollen and muddy, and the current against us
strong.
"On the 23rd we continued our course up the river for about seven
miles. During the afternoon we began to approach the first low hills in
the river's course, and had to ascend two rapids, the first we had met.
"On the 24th we had much difficulty in poling and dragging the boat up
some rapids, the current being very strong, and the river, though
falling, still deep. On this day we only accomplished four miles, in
spite of our best exertions.
"On the 25th we continued our ascent, poling, pulling, or dragging the
boat. We passed a number of rapids and by night found ourselves with
hills on all sides of us. We passed a large rock on the right bank of
the river, which seems to be quite exceptional in its formation in this
part of the country. It is a grey stone, full of crystalline needles,
like manganite.
"After we had pitched camp I went to examine a native-built
suspension-bridge, which our hunting party had discovered up stream--a
remarkable structure, occurring in such a locality and built by such a
primitive people as the inland natives are in this district. At the
spot where the bridge stands the river is narrowed by a rocky point
that encroaches on the left bank from a steep hill immediately
adjoining; advantage has been taken of this in building. The bridge,
which is thus only about 70 yards long, is chiefly supported by a large
banyan tree, which grows on the rock on the left bank, about 20 feet
from the water's edge; it starts from this tree at an elevation of
about 50 feet above the pool below, descends in midstream to about 12
or 15 feet from the water, and rises to about 20 feet on the right
bank, where it is suspended to a tree not sufficiently large or strong
to receive the whole of this end of the bridge, and is therefore
supplemented by a post put into the ground, and this again is
strengthened by a cross-bar to the live tree and fixed by stays
extending backwards to trees behind. The material employed is rattan
cane. Of these, fifteen are used to form supports, but as they have not
all been long enough to cross the river, some of them have been joined
by knotting. The floor of the bridge is formed of four of these canes,
but as two appear to have been broken, the second pair have probably
been laid down in effecting repairs. About two feet six inches from the
floor there are two rattans on each side, and about two feet three
inches above these again are three rattans on the lower, and four on
the upper side. They are not plaited or twisted, but are kept in
position by split cane worked from the floor to the middle and top
rattans, which serves the double purpose of connecting the several
strands and would probably prevent anyone from falling into the river
should one stumble in crossing. A transverse section of the bridge
would show it to be nearly V-shaped, but with the sides slightly
rounded. The height of the V is about five feet, the width at the top
about three feet six inches, and the distance of the middle strands
from each other, about two feet. The top strands are kept apart by a
cross-stick, the ends of which are tied to the top of each strand.
Suitable platform approaches have been built at the ends, and the whole
structure is both strong and graceful. Five of our party crossed it at
one time, and from all appearances many more could have done so.
"On the 26th the river had become narrower as we advanced, and we had
to contend with strong rapids.
"On the 27th we found the rapids very strong, therefore we decided to
discontinue the journey in the boat, and selected a suitable camp on
the right bank of the river. This place became our principal depot for
the expedition. By our estimate it is 40 miles from Manumanu by water,
35 miles of this being on the Vanapa itself. I sent Mr. Cameron, my
private secretary, to Port Moresby to procure carriers, provisions,
etc., whilst I remained in charge of the party.
"Everywhere there were traces of natives; none, however, were seen. The
furthest distance inland from the camp reached by me, was between six
and seven miles. Many of my party suffered from ill-health. All the
hills in this district were of a slaty formation with thin veins of
white quartz.
"About 2-1/2 miles from our camp we discovered, on the 30th April, a
rocky height on the first mountain we traversed (Mount Gleeson), whence
a very fine view of all the mountains of the interior, right up to the
summit of the Owen Stanley Range, could be seen. It was named, and is
known to us as "Jack's Rock," and is strongly recommended to future
travellers as an excellent observing-point, although its altitude is
only about 1,000 feet.
"On the 12th May Mr. Cameron arrived with 15 men, carrying supplies.
The whole of the next few days were spent in preparing the packs for
the march inland, to commence next morning.
"We left camp on the 17th May. There marched out, all told, forty-two
persons, four Europeans, including myself, George Belford (a Samoan
half-caste, a man of excellent character and well acquainted with this
country), five Polynesians and thirty-two Papuans.
"As the path had been cut for the first day's march, we covered about
four miles before we camped in the afternoon at Exton Junction, where
the Exton Creek enters the Vanapa River. We left Exton Junction early
on the morning of the 18th, and had at the start some very steep ridges
to cross. We passed several creeks in slate and quartz formation which
looked, especially one, very promising for gold. The 20th was memorable
as being the first time our native carriers expressed a desire to go no
farther. On this occasion Belford, by the exercise of patience, by
threats and expostulations, managed to bring the whole company into
camp on the north side of Mount Kowald, about 500 feet from the summit.
"We required the whole of the 21st to descend the north side of Mount
Kowald, at the foot of which we camped, on the right bank of the Vanapa
River. A small native village was seen on a hill five or six miles from
us. Mount Kowald was of the usual slaty formation.
"On it we killed three snakes, a matter worthy of mention only because
we saw none farther inland. Several people suffered here from fever.
Between one and two o'clock a raft was prepared, and by four o'clock we
were all safely encamped on the other side of the river.
"We had only covered two and a quarter miles in two days, although
those two days had been most fatiguing. On the 23rd we travelled about
three miles, at first along the left bank of the Vanapa, and then up
one of the spurs and crests of Mount Belford. As it was desirable to
get further east before approaching the main range, it was deemed well
to follow further along the crest of Mount Belford, whence it was hoped
a spur might be found which might lead us to Mount Musgrave, and our
march was therefore continued along the top of Mount Belford during the
whole of the 24th. On the 25th we descended Mount Belford and camped in
a wet, gloomy gorge at the foot of it. About three-quarters of a mile
from our camp of the 25th we came next morning, at an altitude of 2,635
feet, to the Joseph River,[5] a fine mountain stream about 20 yards
broad, running along the southern foot of Mount Musgrave.
[5] Evidently the San Joseph.--_Author._
"In the afternoon we camped on a spur leading us right up towards the
crest of Mount Musgrave, at a height of 3,380 feet. At daylight next
morning the temperature was 73 deg.. On the 27th we continued the ascent of
the ridge, following the native path. Fortunately for us the crest we
had reached turned round towards the west and north and led us towards
the main crest of Mount Musgrave, which was reached on the next day's
march. It was determined that we should proceed eastward along the
crest of Mount Musgrave until nearly opposite Mount Victoria, and then
look for a ridge on the north side of Mount Musgrave, leading down in
the desired direction. On our way back to camp we met numbers of
natives. We soon became on friendly terms with them and managed to
obtain a supply of food. They are physically stronger than the coast
men. They do not tattoo, neither do they wear nose and ear ornaments.
The nose is generally of the Semitic type. They always left our camp
before nightfall.
"They are fond of, and will give food in exchange for, salt, beads and
cutlery. Tobacco they do not prize greatly, as they grow very good
tobacco themselves.
"On the 29th we were able to resume the ascent of the crest of Mount
Musgrave, along which we proceeded about two miles on this day and
camped at an altitude of 7,180 feet. The temperature was 70 deg. at noon,
but at night fell below 60 deg..
"Mount Musgrave does not differ in formation from Mount Belford; but,
somewhat to our surprise, we found it to be composed of slate and
quartz right to the top. Our path was crossed at several places between
6,000 and 7,000 feet, by well-marked veins of white quartz.
"Finding that there was no prospect of meeting with any spur running
towards Mount Victoria (the new name given to Mount Owen Stanley), we
determined to descend on the north side of Mount Musgrave. My own party
now consisted of Belford, two Polynesians and six Papuans. After a
succession of steep cliffs and gorges, we, by ten o'clock, reached a
clearing, and after great difficulty in descending the steep rocks at
the foot of Mount Musgrave, we reached the Vanapa River at about noon,
at the foot of Mount Knutsford. We had considerable difficulty in
crossing the Vanapa, on account of the quantity of water and the
rapidity of the current. Immediately on effecting the passage we were
at the foot of Mount Knutsford, the first mountain we touched connected
directly with the Owen Stanley range.
"We ascended about 500 feet, and then camped. On the 2nd of June we
continued our ascent. A temperature of 69 deg. F. was marked before
sunrise. We camped for the night at an altitude of 6,500 feet, where
the temperature at 6 p.m. was 67 deg..
"Next day, June 3rd, we started at 7.30 a.m., and by noon had travelled
one mile, when we were completely enveloped in fog, temperature 64 deg. F.
On the 5th of June we first came into contact, at an altitude of 9,000
feet, with an undergrowth of bamboo. At 2 p.m. on 6th of June we
reached the summit of Mount Knutsford, 11,100 feet high. Here Alpine
flowers and plants are met with. The quartz and slate formation extends
to the top. The temperature at night and early morning was as low as
45 deg. to 40 deg..
"We were now left with six days' food, and there was no appearance of
any more reaching us. It was not without some anxiety that a forward
march was ordered on the morning of the 8th. We accomplished fully five
miles in a northerly direction along the summit of Mount Knutsford, and
camped on a small creek that divides it at its northern end from Mount
Griffith. At 9 a.m. next day we crossed the Vanapa for the last time.
The altitude of this crossing was 10,130 feet, the temperature 59 deg.. On
crossing we began the ascent of the central ridge of the Owen Stanley
Range. Early in the afternoon we reached the top of the great ridge at
the point named Winter Height, which has an altitude of 11,882 feet,
and about 5 p.m. we camped on the lowest part of the great central
ridge, forming the lowest part of the central portion of the Owen
Stanley Range, to which has been given the name of Dickson Pass. Its
height is 10,884 feet, and it divides Mount Douglas from Winter Height.
In our camp at Dickson Pass, the morning temperature before sunrise was
44 deg., and at 8 a.m. 55 deg.. The forest here is mainly composed of cypress.
We passed over the top of Mount Douglas, 11,796 feet, and had an
opportunity of picking strawberries there. They were small, excellent
in flavour, but not quite ripe. At 5 p.m. we pitched camp, after a
march of about five or six miles, some four hours' march from the top
of Mount Victoria, the name I have given to the highest crest of the
great Owen Stanley Range.
"At about 11 a.m. of the 11th of June, I reached the top of the
north-west peak of Mount Victoria, and I may mention that a few hundred
feet from the top of the highest crest I saw the largest vein of quartz
I have seen in the 'Possession,' about 15 inches thick. There are no
trees on this mountain within 1,500 feet of the top, and but few
bushes.
"We were camped two nights on Mount Victoria, the 11th and 12th of
June, at an altitude of 12,452 feet, that is, about 670 feet from the
top of the highest peaks. The temperature rose in the middle of the day
to 70 deg.. In the morning the grass was quite white with frost until the
rays of the sun reached it. Icicles were brought into the camp, the
largest one being over an inch in diameter, and seven or eight inches
long. Mount Victoria is, during this season at least, emphatically a
dry mountain. The crest of Mount Victoria runs from south-east to
north-west, and may be described as composed of six different peaks,
but they might be divided differently by different observers. The
north-west one and the south-east one are a few feet higher than any of
the others. The distance between the two is from a mile to a mile and a
quarter in a straight line. I ascended to the top of all the peaks, the
central ones being most difficult of access, which I climbed only after
tremendous exertion. Mount Victoria is far from being the isolated
block it has been customary to represent it. It is simply the eastern
end of the Owen Stanley Range, which runs without a break, as one
continuous whole, from the south-east end of Mount Victoria until the
range meets Mount Griffith and Mount Scratchley; the length of this
part of the range is about 20 to 25 miles.
"Mr. Cameron's calculations and my observations make the height of
Mount Victoria 13,121 feet, an estimate that comes very near to that
given on maps and charts, 13,205.
"The north coast was for several hours in the forenoon plainly distinct
from the top of Mount Victoria. This mountain is some 15 to 20 miles
nearer to the south than to the north coast. The country lying between
it and the north coast is far less mountainous than that between it and
the south coast.
"Looking from the top of Mount Victoria, only two great mountains are
seen between the Owen Stanley Range and the north coast; these two are
Mount Gillies and Mount Parkes. They are probably from 7,000 to 8,000
feet high. A valley, some two or three miles long, lies between Mount
Parkes on the north, and the ends of Mounts Scratchley and Douglas on
the south; this valley widens out and separates Mount Victoria from
Mount Parkes.
"Smoke was rising from many points in this valley, which is not less
than 30 miles long and will average four or five broad. It appears to
carry a considerable population. There is thus north of the Owen
Stanley Range, and between it and the north coast, a great extent of
comparatively flat country; and there is much more population there
than on the south side. It was impossible to see which way the rivers
ran. Mr. Belford left a powder-flask on the top of the north-west peak
of Mount Victoria, containing a paper, on which he has written that I
ascended the mountain on the 11th of June, 1889, and named it Mount
Victoria. The return journey from the top of Mount Victoria to the
coast was accomplished in twelve days."
* * * * *
Sir William Macgregor is a hardy Scotchman, with a tall, gaunt frame,
and possessed of great strength. He began life as a ploughman on a
farm. He was mainly self-taught, and by dint of industry and
perseverance rose to the position of a doctor of medicine.
He held the appointment of Government Health Officer in Fiji, and also
took an active part in the administration of that colony. In August,
1888, he was appointed Administrator of British New Guinea.
A better man for the post it would be difficult to find. His energy is
untiring, and by his dogged determination he manages to overcome
difficulties that would appear to others insuperable.
His manners are rather uncouth, but they are suited to a wild and
rugged country like New Guinea. Shortly after his arrival in that
country he received the honour of knighthood.
During his residence there he has been engaged in exploring different
portions of the "Possession."
In December last he ascended the Fly River for upwards of six hundred
miles, and reached the boundary dividing the German and English
territories.
The following is a short _resume_ of the expedition:--
He started on the 21st of November last in the steamer _Merrie
England_. At a point, which he says is beyond D'Albert's farthest,
in 5 deg. 54' S., he found the river divides into two branches of equal
size. One of these, named by him the Palmer, he followed up for
eight days to the frontier. The whale-boat stopped at 605 miles
from the mouth of the river. The first mountains met with in the
ascent are on the frontier, and were not explored.
Speaking of the climate, he says: "The heat on the whole, has not
been oppressive for this latitude. The average day temperature in
the shade has been about 85 deg. Fahr., but of course it is a moist
heat. The health of the men has been fair, some having suffered
from fever--short, sharp attacks."
At a point (not far from Ellengowan Island) above the estuary, the
river was found to be 599 yards wide, the rate of current midstream
about 3-3/4 miles an hour, and at 50 yards from the banks about
2-3/4 miles; the depth was five to six fathoms. The influence of
the tide was not observed above 120 miles from the mouth. As a
waterway he says "the Fly river will supply excellent means of
transport. After proceeding 100 miles the river is very monotonous,
and continues so for the next 80 miles. The forest produces no food
for man. For European settlement, such a country, as far as can be
judged, is quite unsuitable; but, of course, no man can speak of
the country beyond a mile or two from the river, the greatest
distance to which we could penetrate."
Of the natives of the large island of Kiwai, in the delta, Sir Wm.
Macgregor speaks favourably.
The island is about thirty-six miles long and two and a half broad.
Sir William went round it twice, and walked across it once,
visiting all the villages, and was everywhere treated with great
friendliness. The total population he puts at 5,000. They produce
large quantities of vegetable food, which may in future create a
considerable export trade. The cultivation of the banana receives
from them much attention. They have no fewer than thirty-six
different varieties. They also plant and cultivate sago trees, of
which they distinguish twenty-five varieties; of yams they grow
twenty kinds, three of which are remarkably good; and of sweet
potatoes ten, two of which are suitable for exportation. They
possess no knowledge of pottery. The sole utensil is a large
slipper-shell. Its name is "wedere," and the consequence is that
the Kiwai native has no other name than "wedere" for all our pots
and pans and different kinds of dishes.
In August news reached me of the murder of two white men by the natives
of Cloudy Bay, South coast. Both men were well-known to me; one of them
I had known for many years. Their names were "Jimmy McTeer" and
"Frenchy."
They had been in the Louisiades digging for gold, had been fairly
successful, and had arrived in Samarai early in July, where I saw a
good deal of them. They had a great idea of thoroughly prospecting the
mainland for gold, and intended to start from the head of Milne Bay,
which is on the south-east coast, and make their way overland to Port
Moresby, and determine, once and for ever, whether the country carried
gold. It was a most hazardous undertaking for two men to attempt, but
they were plucky young fellows, used to "roughing it" and without fear.
I entertained serious notions of accompanying them, but fortunately, as
events proved, I was suffering from fever and was unable to withstand
the fatigues of the journey.
"Frenchy" had about 16 ozs. of gold. I advised him to leave it behind at
Samarai, in case of accidents, but he decided to take it with him, as
it might come in handy when he reached Port Moresby. I suggested that
it would be as well to wear a suit of armour, as in their journey they
would meet with thousands of savages. They considered my suggestion a
good one, so we fixed some corrugated iron on to a coco-nut tree. We
then stood 30 paces off and hurled spears against it. The experiment
proved a failure, the spear penetrating the iron into the tree.
They then suggested tortoise-shell, but whether they carried out the
idea or not I cannot say.
They were of course armed with rifles and revolvers, but of what avail
would they be against thousands of hostile natives? Nothing, however,
would prevent them making the attempt, and they had good hopes of
accomplishing their task.
I saw them off to Milne Bay, and wished them good-bye, with the fervent
hope that they would meet with no disaster and arrive safely in Port
Moresby.
Yet I hardly expected that they would escape from a cruel death. Both
were young men with good constitutions, accustomed to hardships, and
who would sell their lives dearly. The start was made from the village
"Maivara," a number of natives watching their departure with interest.
The two, who had been mates together for some time, and had passed
safely through many dangers, commenced their lonely tramp with brave
hearts and in good spirits.
This was the last seen of the unfortunate travellers.
The first week of their journey, how they got on, what dangers they may
have passed through, will never be known. It must ever remain a blank.
One circumstance alone we know. When they had reached the country at
the back of Cloudy Bay, they were surrounded by hundreds of savages and
treacherously put to death. Their heads had been completely severed
from their bodies, and one of the skulls, when found, was discovered
smashed into pieces.
By-and-by the news reached Port Moresby. Sir Wm. Macgregor at once
ordered the _Merrie England_ to proceed to Cloudy Bay, with an armed
party on board, who were instructed to find, if possible, the remains
of the murdered men, and to punish the ill-doers.
A force of twelve men, well armed, landed as directed, and marched
inland, where they came upon a large village, near which they found the
two skulls (or rather what was left of them) of the unhappy victims.
They also came upon the gold which "Frenchy" had in his possession, and
which the natives had left untouched.
This discovery conclusively proved the identity of the men.
The armed party from the _Merrie England_ shot down several of the
natives, and informed the others that, unless the ringleaders were
given up, they would destroy the village and its inhabitants. Two more
good and true men have been added to the long list of those who have
met with a tragic death in British New Guinea. Let us trust that they
may be the last. The hope is no doubt a vain one, but we cannot be
blamed for expressing such a wish.