The trade in second-hand apparel is one of the most ancient of
callings, and is known in almost every country, but anything like the
Old Clothes Exchange of the Jewish quarter of London, in the extent and
order of its business, is unequalled in the world. There is indeed no
other such place, and it is rather remarkable that a business occupying
so many persons, and requiring such facilities for examination and
arrangement, should not until the year 1843 have had its regulated
proceedings. The Old Clothes Exchange is the latest of the central
marts, established in the metropolis.
Smithfield, or the Cattle Exchange, is the oldest of all the markets;
it is mentioned as a place for the sale of horses in the time of
Henry II. Billingsgate, or the Fish Exchange, is of ancient, but
uncertain era. Covent Garden--the largest Fruit, Vegetable, and
Flower Exchange--first became established as the centre of such
commerce in the reign of Charles II.; the establishment of the Borough
and Spitalfields markets, as other marts for the sale of fruits,
vegetables, and flowers, being nearly as ancient. The Royal Exchange
dates from the days of Queen Elizabeth, and the Bank of England and the
Stock-Exchange from those of William III., while the present premises
for the Corn and Coal Exchanges are modern.
Were it possible to obtain the statistics of the last quarter of a
century, it would, perhaps, be found that in none of the important
interests I have mentioned has there been a greater increase of
business than in the trade in old clothes. Whether this purports a high
degree of national prosperity or not, it is not my business at present
to inquire, and be it as it may, it is certain that, until the last
few years, the trade in old clothes used to be carried on entirely in
the open air, and this in the localities which I have pointed out in
my account of the trade in old metal (p. 10, vol. ii.) as comprising
the Petticoat-lane district. The old clothes trade was also pursued in
Rosemary-lane, but then--and so indeed it is now--this was but a branch
of the more centralized commerce of Petticoat-lane. The head-quarters
of the traffic at that time were confined to a space not more than ten
square yards, adjoining Cutler-street. The chief traffic elsewhere
was originally in Cutler-street, White-street, Carter-street, and in
Harrow-alley--the districts of the celebrated Rag-fair.
The confusion and clamour before the institution of the present
arrangements were extreme. Great as was the extent of the business
transacted, people wondered how it could be accomplished, for it
always appeared to a stranger, that there could be no order whatever
in all the disorder. The wrangling was incessant, nor were the
trade-contests always confined to wrangling alone. The passions of the
Irish often drove them to resort to cuffs, kicks, and blows, which
the Jews, although with a better command over their tempers, were not
slack in returning. The East India Company, some of whose warehouses
adjoined the market, frequently complained to the city authorities
of the nuisance. Complaints from other quarters were also frequent,
and sometimes as many as 200 constables were necessary to restore or
enforce order. The nuisance, however, like many a public nuisance,
was left to remedy itself, or rather it was left to be remedied by
individual enterprise. Mr. L. Isaac, the present proprietor, purchased
the houses which then filled up the back of Phil’s-buildings, and
formed the present Old Clothes Exchange. This was eight years ago;
now there are no more policemen in the locality than in other equally
populous parts.
Of Old Clothes Exchanges there are now two, both adjacent, the one
first opened by Mr. Isaac being the most important. This is 100 feet by
70, and is the mart to which the collectors of the cast-off apparel of
the metropolis bring their goods for sale. The goods are sold wholesale
and retail, for an old clothes merchant will buy either a single
hat, or an entire wardrobe, or a sackful of shoes,--I need not say
_pairs_, for odd shoes are not rejected. In one department of “Isaac’s
Exchange,” however, the goods are not sold to parties who buy for their
own wearing, but to the old clothes merchant, who buys to sell again.
In this portion of the mart are 90 stalls, averaging about six square
feet each.
In another department, which communicates with the first, and is
two-thirds of the size, are assembled such traders as buy the old
garments to dispose of them, either after a process of cleaning, or
when they have been repaired and renovated. These buyers are generally
shopkeepers, residing in the old clothes districts of Marylebone-lane,
Holywell-street, Monmouth-street, Union-street (Borough), Saffron-hill
(Field-lane), Drury-lane, Shoreditch, the Waterloo-road, and other
places of which I shall have to speak hereafter.
The difference between the first and second class of buyers above
mentioned, is really that of the merchant and the retail shopkeeper.
The one buys literally anything presented to him which is vendible, and
in any quantity, for the supply of the wholesale dealers from distant
parts, or for exportation, or for the general trade of London. The
other purchases what suits his individual trade, and is likely to suit
regular or promiscuous customers.
In another part of the same market is carried on the _retail_ old
clothes trade to any one--shopkeeper, artisan, clerk, costermonger,
or gentlemen. This indeed, is partially the case in the other parts.
“Yesh, inteet,” said a Hebrew trader, whom I conversed with on the
subject, “I shall be clad to shell you one coat, sir. Dish von is
shust your shize; it is verra sheep, and vosh made by one tip-top
shnip.” Indeed, the keenness and anxiety to trade--whenever trade seems
possible--causes many of the frequenters of these marts to infringe the
arrangements as to the manner of the traffic, though the proprietors
endeavour to cause the regulations to be strictly adhered to.
The second Exchange, which is a few yards apart from the other is known
as Simmons and Levy’s Clothes Exchange, and is unemployed, for its more
especial business purposes, except in the mornings. The commerce is
then wholesale, for here are sold collections of unredeemed pledges in
wearing apparel, consigned there by the pawnbrokers, or the buyers at
the auctions of unredeemed goods; as well as draughts from the stocks
of the wardrobe dealers; a quantity of military or naval stores, and
such like articles. In the afternoon the stalls are occupied by retail
dealers. The ground is about as large as the first-mentioned exchange,
but is longer and narrower.
In neither of these places is there even an attempt at architectural
elegance, or even neatness. The stalls and partitions are of unpainted
wood, the walls are bare, the only care that seems to be manifested is
that the places should be dry. In the first instance the plainness was
no doubt a necessity from motives of prudence, as the establishments
were merely speculations, and now everything but _business_ seems
to be disregarded. The Old Clothes Exchanges have assuredly one
recommendation as they are now seen--their appropriateness. They have
a threadbare, patched, and _second-hand_ look. The dresses worn by the
dealers, and the dresses they deal in, are all in accordance with the
genius of the place. But the eagerness, crowding, and energy, are the
grand features of the scene; and of all the many curious sights in
London there is none so picturesque (from the various costumes of the
buyers and sellers), none so novel, and none so animated as that of the
Old Clothes Exchange.
Business is carried on in the wholesale department of the Old Clothes
Exchanges every day during the week; and in the retail on each day
except the Hebrew Sabbath (Saturday). The Jews in the old clothes trade
observe strictly the command that on their Sabbath day they shall do no
manner of work, for on a visit I paid to the Exchange last Saturday,
not a single Jew could I see engaged in any business. But though
the Hebrew Sabbath is observed by the Jews and disregarded by the
Christians, the Christian Sabbath, on the other hand, is disregarded
by Jew and Christian alike, some few of the Irish excepted, who may
occasionally go to early mass, and attend at the Exchange afterwards.
Sunday, therefore, in “Rag-fair,” is like the other days of the week
(Saturday excepted); business closes on the Sunday, however, at 2
instead of 6.
On the Saturday the keen Jew-traders in the neighbourhood of the
Exchanges may be seen standing at their doors--after the synagogue
hours--or looking out of their windows, dressed in their best. The
dress of the men is for the most part not distinguishable from that of
the English on the Sunday, except that there may be a greater glitter
of rings and watch-guards. The dress of the women is of every kind;
becoming, handsome, rich, tawdry, but seldom neat.