General Account of Kamtschatka.--Geographical Description.--Rivers.--
Soil.--Climate.--Volcanoes.--Hot Springs.--Productions.--Vegetables.--
Animals.--Birds.--Fish.[42]
Kamtschatka is the name of a peninsula situated on the eastern coast of
Asia, running nearly N. and S., from 52° to 6l° N. latitude; the longitude
of its southern extremity being 156° 45' E. The isthmus, which joins it to
the continent on the N., lies between the Gulf of Olutorsk and the Gulf of
Penshinsk. Its southern extremity is Cape Lopatka, a word signifying the
blade bone of a man, and is so called from its supposed resemblance to it.
The shape of the whole peninsula is not unlike that of a shoe, widening
from the toe (which we may suppose to be Cape Lopatka) toward the middle,
and narrowing again toward the heel, the neck of land above mentioned
connecting it with the continent. Its greatest breadth is from the mouth of
the river Tigil to that of Kamtschatka, and is computed to be two hundred
and thirty-six miles, from whence it narrows very gradually toward each
extremity.
It is bounded on the N. by the country of the Koriacks; to the S. and E.,
by the North Pacific Ocean; and to the W., by the sea of Okotzk. A chain of
high mountains stretches the whole length of the country, from N. to S.,
dividing it nearly into two equal parts, from whence a great number of
rivers take their rise, and empty themselves, on each side, into the
Pacific Ocean and the sea of Okotzk.
There are three rivers of much greater magnitude than the rest; the
Bolchoireka, or great river, so called from bolchoia, which signifies
great, and reka, a river; the river Kamtschatka, and the Awatska. The first
empties itself into the sea of Okotzk, and is navigable for the Russian
galliots upwards of five leagues from its mouth, or within nine miles of
Bolcheretsk, a town situated at the conflux of the Goltsoffka and the
Bistraia, which here lose themselves in the Bolchoireka. The Bistraia
itself is no inconsiderable river. It derives its source from the same
mountain with the river Kamtschatka, and, by taking a direct contrary
course, affords the Kamtschadales the means of transporting their goods by
water in small canoes, almost across the whole peninsula. The river
Kamtschatka, after maintaining a course of near three hundred miles from S.
to N.. winds round to the eastward; in which direction it empties itself
into the ocean, a little to the southward of Kamtschatkoi Noss. Near the
mouth of the Kamtschatka to the N.W., lies the great lake called Nerpitsch,
from nerpi, a Kamtschadale word, signifying a seal, with which this lake
abounds. About twenty miles up the river, reckoning from the mouth of the
lake, is a fort called Nishnei Kamtschatka ostrog, where the Russians have
built an hospital and barracks; and which, we were informed, is become the
principal mart in this country.
The river Awatska rises from the mountains situated between the Bolchoireka
and the Bistraia, and running, from N.W. to S.E., a course of one hundred
miles, falls into the bay of Awatska. The Tigil is likewise a river of
considerable size, rising amidst some very high mountains, which lie under
the same parallel with Kamtschatkoi Noss, and running in an even course
from S.E. to N.W., falls into the sea at Okotzk. All the other rivers of
this peninsula, which are almost infinite in number, are too small to
deserve a particular enumeration.
If I may judge of the soil, from what I saw of its vegetable productions, I
should not hesitate in pronouncing it barren in the extreme. Neither in the
neighbourhood of the bay, nor in the country I traversed on my journey to
Bolcheretsk, nor in any of our hunting expeditions, did I ever meet with
the smallest spot of ground that resembled what in England is called a good
green turf; or that seemed as if it could be turned to any advantage,
either in the way of pasturage, or other mode of cultivation. The face of
the country in general was thinly covered with stunted trees, having a
bottom of moss, mixed, with low weak heath. The whole bore a more striking
resemblance to Newfoundland, than to any other part of the world I had ever
seen.
It must however be observed, that I saw at Paratounca three or four stacks
of sweet and very fine-looking hay; and Major Behm informed me, that many
parts of the peninsula, particularly the banks of the river Kamtschatka and
the Bistraia, produce grass of great height and strength, which they cut
twice in the summer; and that the hay is of a succulent quality, and
particularly well adapted to the fattening of cattle. Indeed it should
appear, from the size and fatness of the thirty-six head that were sent
down to us from the Verchnei ostrog, and which, we were told, were bred and
fattened in the neighbourhood, that they must have had the advantage of
both good pastures and meadows. For it is worth our notice, that the first
supply we received, consisting of twenty, came to us just at the close of
the winter, and before the snow was off the ground, and therefore probably
had tasted nothing but hay for the seven preceding months. And this agrees
with what is related by Krascheninnikoff, that there is no part of the
country equal in fertility to that which borders on the river Kamtschatka;
and that to the N. and S. it is much inferior both in point of soil and
climate. He relates, that repeated experiments have been made in the
culture of oats, barley, and rye, in different quarters near this river,
which have generally succeeded; that, in particular, some persons belonging
to the convent of Jakutzk, who had settled in that part of the country, had
sown barley there, which had yielded an extraordinary increase; and he has
no doubt but that wheat, in many parts, particularly near the source of the
Bistraia and Kamtschatka, would grow as well as in the generality of
countries situated in the same latitude. Perhaps the superior fertility of
the country here spoken of, may, in a great measure, be accounted for, from
its lying in that part of the peninsula which is by much the widest, and
consequently farthest removed from the sea, on each side. The moist
chilling fogs and drizzling weather which prevail almost perpetually along
the coast, must necessarily render the parts adjacent very unfit for all
the purposes of agriculture.[43]
It is natural to suppose, that the severity of the climate must be in due
proportion to the general sterility of the soil, of which it is probably
the cause. The first time we saw this country was in the beginning of May,
1779, when the whole face of it was covered with snow, from six to eight
feet deep. On the 6th we had snow, with the wind from the N.E. On the 8th
of May, at noon, the thermometer stood at 32°; and the same day some of our
men were sent on shore to try to cut wood, but the snow was still so deep
on the ground, as to render all their attempts fruitless. Nor was it found
practicable to proceed in this necessary business, with all the efforts of
a very stout party, till the 12th, at which time the thaw began to advance
gradually. The sides of the hills were now in some places free from snow;
and, by the beginning of June, it was generally melted from the low lands.
On the 15th of June, the day we sailed out of the harbour, the thermometer
had never risen higher than 58°, nor the barometer than 30° 04'. The winds
blew almost invariably from the eastward during our stay, and the S.E. was
more prevalent than any other.
On our return, the 24th of August, the foliage of the trees, and all other
sorts of vegetation, seemed to be in the utmost state of perfection. For
the remainder of this month, and through September, the weather was very
changeable, but in no respect severe. The winds at the beginning of the
month were for the most part easterly, after which they got round to the W.
The greatest height of the thermometer was 65°, the lowest 40°. The
barometer's greatest height 30°, its lowest 29,3. So that upon the whole,
during this month, an equal and moderate degree of temperature prevailed.
But at the beginning of October, the tops of the hills were again covered
with new-fallen snow, the wind continuing westerly.
In computing the seasons, the spring ought certainly not to be taken into
the account. From the middle of June to the middle of September, may be
properly said to constitute the summer. October may be considered as an
autumnal month; from thence, to the middle of June, it is perfect winter.
It was toward the end of May that we made our journey between Bolcheretsk
and Awatska, over the snow in sledges.
It is said, that the climate in the country adjoining to the river
Kamtschatka, is not less serene and temperate, than in many parts of
Siberia that are under the same latitude. This variation is probably owing
to the same causes, to which the superior fertility of the soil in those
parts has been before attributed. But it is not in the sterility of the
ground alone, that the Kamtschadales feel the unfavourable temperature of
their climate. The uncertainty of the summer season sometimes prevents
their laying up a sufficient stock of dried fish for their winter's
provision, and the moisture of the air causes worms to breed in them, which
not unfrequently destroy the greatest part.
I do not remember that we had either thunder or lightning during our stay,
excepting on the night of the eruption of the volcano; and, from the
account of the inhabitants, they are very seldom troubled with storms of
this kind, and never but in a slight degree. The general severity of the
winter, as well as the dreadful hurricanes of wind and snow that season
brings along with it, cannot be questioned, from the subterraneous
habitations the natives are under a necessity of retiring to, for warmth
and security. Major Behm told us, that the cold and inclemency of the
winter of 1779 was such, that for several weeks all intercourse between the
inhabitants was entirely stopped, every one being afraid to stir even from
one house to another, for fear of being frost-bitten. This extraordinary
rigour of climate, in so low a latitude, may be accounted for from its
being situated to the east of an immense uncultivated tract of country, and
from the prevalence of the westerly winds, blowing over so extensive and
cold a continent. The extraordinary violence and impetuosity of the winds
is attributed to the subterraneous fires, the sulphureous exhalations, and
the general volcanic disposition of the country.
This peninsula abounds in volcanos, of which only three have, for some time
past, been subject to eruptions. We have already mentioned that which is
situated in the neighbourhood of Awatska. Besides this, there are others
not less remarkable, according to the account given of them by
Krascheninnikoff.
The volcano of Tolbatchick is situated on a neck of ground between the
river of Kamtschatka and Tolbatchick. The mountain, from the summit of
which, the eruptions proceed, is of a considerable height, and terminated
in pointed rocks. In the beginning of the year 1739, there issued from it a
whirlwind of flames, which reduced to ashes the forests of the neighbouring
mountains. This was succeeded by a cloud of smoke, which spread over and
darkened the whole country, till it was dissipated by a shower of cinders,
that covered the ground to the distance of thirty miles. Mr
Krascheninnikoff, who was at this time on a journey from Bolchoireka to the
Kamtschatka ostrog, at no great distance from the mountain, relates that
the eruption was preceded by an alarming sound in the woods, which he
thought the forerunner of some dreadful storm or hurricane, till three
shocks of an earthquake, at about a minute's interval of each, convinced
him of its real cause; but that he was hindered from approaching nearer the
mountain, by the cinders that fell, and prevented him from proceeding on
his journey.
The third volcano is on the top of the mountain of Kamtschatka, which is
mentioned as by far the highest in the peninsula. A thick smoke never
ceases to ascend from its summit, and it has frequent eruptions, of the
most violent and dreadful kind; some of which were much talked of, and
seemed to be fresh in the memories of the Kamtschadales.
The country is likewise said to contain numerous springs of hot water. The
only one that I had an opportunity of seeing was at Natcheekin ostrog, and
hath been already described. Krascheninnikoff makes mention of several
others, and also of two very extraordinary pits, or wells, at the bottom of
which the water is seen to boil as in a cauldron, with prodigious force and
impetuosity; at the same time a dreadful noise issues out of them, and so
thick a vapour, that a man cannot see through it.
Of the trees which fell under our notice, the principal are the birch, the
poplar, the alder, (with the bark of which they stain their leather,) many
species of the willow, but all small; and two kinds of dwarfish pines or
cedars.[44] One of these grows upon the coast, creeping along the ground,
and seldom exceeds two feet in height. It was of this sort we made our
essence for beer, and found it excellent for the purpose. The other grows
on the mountains, to a greater height, and bears a small nut, or apple. We
were told by the old _Toion_ at Saint Peter and Saint Paul, that Beering,
during the time he lay in that harbour, first taught them the use of the
decoction of these pines, and that it proved a most excellent remedy for
the scurvy; but, whether from the great scarcity of sugar, or from what
other cause, we could not learn, we were sorry to find that it was no
longer in use amongst them.
The birch was by far the most common tree we saw; and of this we remarked
three sorts. Two of them fit for timber, and differing only in the texture
and colour of the bark; the third of a dwarfish kind. This tree is applied
to a great variety of uses by the inhabitants. The liquor which, on
tapping, it yields in great abundance, they drink without mixture, or any
preparation, as we had frequent opportunities of observing upon our journey
to Bolcheretsk; and found it ourselves pleasant and refreshing, but
somewhat purgative. The bark they convert into vessels, for almost all
their domestic and kitchen purposes; and it is of the wood of this tree the
sledges and canoes are also made.[45]
The birch, and every other kind of tree in the neighbourhood of the bay,
were small and stunted; and they are obliged to go many miles up into the
country, for wood of a proper size to work into canoes, for the principal
timbers of their _balagans_, and the like uses.
Besides the trees above-mentioned, Krascheninnikoff relates, that the larch
grows on the banks of the river Kamtschatka, and of those that fall into
it, but no where else; and that there are firs in the neighbourhood of the
river Berezowa; that there is likewise the service-tree (_padus foliis
annuis_;) and two species of the white thorn, one bearing a red, the other
a black berry.
Of the shrub kind, as junipers, the mountain-ash, wild rose-trees, and
raspberry bushes, the country produces great abundance; together with a
variety of berries; blue berries of two sorts, round and oval; partridge-
berries, cranberries, crow-berries, and black-berries. These the natives
gather at proper seasons, and preserve, by boiling them into a thick jam,
without sugar. They make no inconsiderable part of their winter provisions,
and are used as sauce to their dried and salt fish; of which kind of food
they are unquestionably excellent correctives. They likewise eat them by
themselves in puddings and various other ways, and make decoctions of them
for their ordinary liquor.
We met with several wholesome vegetables in a wild state, and in great
quantities; such as wild celery, angelica, chervil, garlic, and onions.
Upon some few patches of ground in the vallies, we found excellent turnips
and turnip-radishes. Their garden cultivation went no farther; yet from
hence I am led to conclude, that many of the hardy sorts of vegetables,
(such at least as push their roots downward,) like as carrots; parsnips,
and beet, and perhaps potatoes, would thrive tolerably well. Major Behm
told me, that some other sorts of kitchen vegetables had been tried, but
did not answer; that neither any of the cabbage or lettuce kind would ever
head; and that peas and beans shot up very vigorous stalks, flowered and
podded, but the pods never filled. He likewise told me, that in the
experiments made by himself at Bolcheretsk, with different sorts of
farinaceous grain, there generally came up a very high and strong blade,
which eared, but that the ears never yielded flour.
This short account of the vegetable production reaches to such parts of the
country only as fell within our notice, In the neighbourhood of the
Kamtschatka river, where (as has been observed) both the soil and climate
are by much the best in the whole peninsula, garden culture is attended to,
and probably with great success, as appears from our having received, at
the same time with the second drove of cattle from Verchnei, a present of
cucumbers, of very large fine turnips, celery, and some other garden-stuff,
of which I do not recollect the kinds.
There are two plants, which, from the great use made of them, merit a
particular mention and description. The first is called by the natives
_sarana_, and by botanists, _Lilium Kamtskatiense flore atro rubente_.[46]
The stem is about the thickness of that of the tulip, and grows to the
height of five inches, is of a purple colour toward the bottom, and green
higher up, and hath growing from it two tier of leaves of an oval figure,
the lowest consisting of three leaves, the uppermost of four, in the form
of a cross; from the top of the stalk grows a single flower, of an
exceedingly dark red colour, in shape resembling the flower, of the
narcissus, only much smaller; from the centre of the flower rises a style
of a triangular form, and obtuse at the end, which is surrounded by six
white stamina, whose extremities are yellow. The root is of the bulbous
kind, and resembles in shape that of garlic, being much of the same size,
but rounder, and having, like that, four or five cloves hanging together.
The plant grows wild, and in considerable abundance; the women are employed
in collecting the roots at the beginning of August, which are afterward
dried in the sun, and then laid up for use. On our second arrival, this
harvest was just over, and had fallen much short of its usual produce. It
is a common observation amongst the Kamtschadales, that the bounty of
Providence never fails them, for that such seasons as are most hurtful to
the _sarana_, are always the most favourable for fishing; and that, on the
contrary, a bad fishing month is always made up by the exuberance of the
_sarana_ harvest. It is used in cookery in various ways. When roasted in
embers, it supplies the place of bread better than any thing the country
affords. After being baked in an oven and pounded, it becomes an excellent
substitute for flour and meal of every sort; and in this form is mixed in
all their soups, and most of their other dishes. It is esteemed extremely
nourishing, has a pleasant bitter taste, and may be eaten every day without
cloying. We used to boil these roots, and eat them as potatoes, either
alone, or with our meat, and found them very wholesome and pleasant. It has
been already mentioned, that this useful plant grows also at Oonalashka,
where the roots of it are used, and constitute a considerable part of their
food, in like manner as in Kamtschatka.
The other plant alluded to is called the sweet grass; the botanical
description is _Heracleum Sibericum foliis pinnatis, foliolis quinis,
intermediis sessilibus, corollulis uniformibus_. Hort. Upsal. 65. The time,
I took particular notice of it, was in May, when it was about a foot and a
half high, had much the appearance of sedge, and was covered with a white
down, or dust, which looked exceedingly like the hoar frost hanging upon
it, and might be rubbed off; it tasted as sweet as sugar; but was hot and
pungent. The stalk is hollow, and consists of three or four joints; from
each of which arise large leaves, and when at its full growth, is six feet
high.
This plant was formerly a principal ingredient in the cookery of most of
the Kamtschadale dishes; but since the Russians got possession of the
country, it has been almost entirely appropriated to the purpose of
distillation. The manner in which it is gathered, prepared, and afterward
distilled, is as follows:--Having cut such stalks as have leaves growing on
them, of a proper age, (the principal stem, by the time the plant has
attained its full growth, having become too dry for their purpose,) and
scraped off with shells the downy substance on their surface, they are laid
in small heaps, till they begin to sweat and smell. On growing dry again,
they put them into sacks, made of matting; where, after remaining a few
days, they are gradually covered with a sweet saccharine powder, which
exudes from the hollow of the stalk. From thirty-six pounds of the plant in
this state, they obtain no more than a quarter of a pound of powder. The
women, whose province it is to collect and prepare the materials, are
obliged to defend their hands with gloves whilst they are scraping the
stalks; the rind they remove, being of so acrid a quality as to blister,
and even ulcerate, whatever it touches.
The spirit is drawn from the plant in this state by the following
process:--After steeping bundles of it in hot water, they promote its
fermentation in a small vessel, by the help of berries of the
_gimolost_,[47] or of the _golubitsa_,[48] being careful to close up well
the mouth of the vessel, and to keep it in a warm place whilst the
fermentation is going on, which is generally so violent as to occasion a
considerable noise, and to agitate the vessel in which it is contained.
After drawing off this first liquor, they pour on more hot water, and make
a second in the same manner. They then pour both liquor and herbs into a
copper still, and draw off the spirit after the usual method. The liquor
thus obtained is of the strength of brandy; and is called by the natives
_raka_. Two pood (seventy-two pounds) of the plant yield generally one
vedro (twenty-five pints) of _raka_.
Steller says, that the spirit distilled from this plant, unscraped, is
exceedingly prejudicial to the health, and produces the most sudden and
terrible nervous effects.
Besides these, Krascheninnikoff mentions a variety of other plants, from
whence the inhabitants prepare several decoctions; and which, being mixed
with their fish, make palatable and wholesome ragouts. Such as the
_kipri_,[49] with which is brewed a pleasant common beverage; and, by
boiling this plant and the sweet herb together, in the proportion of one to
five of the latter, and fermenting the liquor in the ordinary way, is
obtained a strong and excellent vinegar. The leaves of it are used instead
of tea, and the pith is dried and mixed in many of their dishes; the
_morkovai_,[50] which is very like angelica; the _kotkorica,[51] the root
of which they eat indifferently, green or dried; the _ikoum_,[52] the
_utchichlei_,[53] which is much eaten with fish; with many others.
It is said, that the Kamtschadales (before their acquaintance with fire-
arms) poisoned their spears and arrows with the juice of the root of the
_zgate_;[54] and that wounds inflicted by them are equally destructive to
land and marine animals. The Tschutski are reported to use the same drug
for this purpose at present.
I shall conclude this part of the natural history of Kamtschatka with an
account, from the same author, of three plants, which furnish the materials
of all their manufactures. The first is the _triticum radice perenni
spiculis binis lanuginosis_,[55] which grows in abundance along the coast.
Of the straw of this grass they make a strong sort of matting, which they
use not only for their floors, but for sacks, bedclothes, curtains, and a
variety of other domestic purposes. Of the same materials they also make
very neat little bags and baskets, of different forms, and for various
uses.
The plant called _bolotnaia_, which grows in the marshes, and resembles
_cyperoides_, is gathered in the autumn, and carded like wool, with a comb
made of the bones of the sea-swallow; with this, in lieu of linen and
woollen clothes, they swathe their new-born infants, and use it for a
covering next the skin whilst they are young. It is also made into a kind
of wadding, and used for the purpose of giving additional warmth to various
parts of their clothing.
There remains still a vulgar and well-known plant, which, as it contributes
more effectually to their subsistence, than all the rest put together, must
not be passed over in silence. This is the nettle, which, as the country
produces neither, hemp nor flax, supplies the materials of which are made
their fishing-nets, and without which they could not possibly subsist. For
this purpose they cut it down in August; and, after hanging it up in
bundles in the shade, under their _balagans_, the remainder of the summer,
treat it like hemp. They then spin it into thread with their fingers, and
twist it round a spindle; after which they twine several threads together,
according to the different purposes for which It may be designed.
Though there is little doubt but that many parts of this peninsula would
admit of such cultivation as might contribute considerably to the comfort
of the inhabitants, yet its real riches must always consist in the number
of wild animals it produces; and no labour, can ever be turned to so good
account as what is employed upon their furrieries. The animals therefore
which supply these come next to be considered; and these are, the common
fox, the stoat, or ermine, the zibeline, or sable, the isatis, or arctic
fox, the varying hare, the mountain rat, or earless marmot, the weasel, the
glutton, or wolverene, the argali, or wild sheep, rein-deer, bears, wolves,
dogs.
The fox[56] is the most general object of the chase; and they are found in
great numbers, and of variety of colours. The most common is the same in
species with the European, with this variation, that the colours are more
bright and shining; some are of a dark chesnut, others are striped with
dark-coloured bars, others have the belly black, and the rest of the body
of a light chesnut. Some again are of a very dark brown, some black, others
of a stone colour; and there are a few quite white, but these last are very
scarce. Their fur is exceedingly thick and fine, and of a quality much
superior to those either of Siberia or America. A variety of artifices are
made use of by the hunters to catch this animal, which in all climates seem
to preserve the same character of craftiness and cunning. Traps of
different sorts, some calculated to fall upon them, others to catch them by
the feet, others by the head, are amongst the most common; to which may be
added, several ingenious contrivances for taking them in nets. Poisoned
baits are likewise in use; and the _nux vomica_ is the drug principally
employed for this purpose. Before their knowledge of the Russians, by which
they became acquainted with fire-arms, they also carried bows and arrows to
the chase. But since that period, almost every Kamtschadale is provided
with a rifle-barrel gun; and, though far from being dexterous in the use of
it, its superiority over the former instruments he is ready to acknowledge.
The sables[57] of Kamtschatka are said to be considerably larger than those
of Siberia, and their fur much thicker and brighter, though not of so good
a black as those in the neighbourhood of the Olekma and the Vitime,[58] a
circumstance which depreciates their value much more than their superiority
in other respects enhances it. The sables of the Tigil and Ouka are counted
the best in Kamtschatka; and a pair of these sometimes sell for thirty
roubles (five pounds sterling). The worst are those of the southern
extremity. The apparatus of the sable hunters consist of a rifle-barrel gun
of an exceedingly small bore, a net, and a few bricks; with the first they
shoot them when they see them on the trees; the net is to surround the
hollow trees, in which, when pursued, they take refuge; and the bricks are
heated, and put into the cavities, in order to smoke them out.
I must refer the reader for an account of the isatis,[59] or arctic fox, to
Mr Pennant's Arctic Zoology, as I never saw either the animal or the skin,
which I understand they set no value upon. The varying hare[60] is also
neglected on the same account. They are in great abundance; and, as is
always the case with this species, turn quite white during the winter. Our
shooting parties saw several of this colour the beginning of May, but found
them so shy, that they were not able to get within gun-shot.
The mountain-rat, or earless marmot,[61] is a beautiful little animal,
considerably smaller than a squirrel, and, like it, feeds upon roots,
berries, the cedar-apple, &c. which it eats sitting upon its hind-legs, and
holding them up to its mouth with the paws. Its skin is much valued by the
Kamtschadales, is both warm and light, and of a bright shining colour,
forming, like the plumage of some birds, various colours when viewed in
different lights.
The stoat, or ermine,[62] is here held in no estimation, and consequently
never engages the attention of the hunters; because, as I have heard, its
fur is of an ordinary kind. I saw many of these little animals running
about; and we bought several of their skins, which were of a bad white, and
of a dirty yellow toward the belly. The common weasel[63] is also
neglected, and for the same reason.
On the contrary, the skin of the glutton, or wolverene,[64] is here in the
highest repute; insomuch, that a Kamtschadale looks upon himself as most
richly attired, when a small quantity of this fur is seen upon him. The
women adorn their hair with its pats, which are white, and considered as an
extraordinary piece of finery; and they have a superstitious opinion, that
the angels are clad with the skins of those animals. It is said, that this
creature is easily tamed, and taught a number of pleasant tricks.[65]
Having already had occasion to speak, as fully as my own knowledge enables
me, of the bears, and the method of killing them, I shall only here
observe, that all those I saw were of a dun brown colour; that they are
generally seen in companies of four or five together; that the time they
are most abroad is during the season that the fish (which is their
principal food) are pushing up from the sea into the rivers, and that they
are seldom visible in the winter months.[66]
Their skins are exceedingly useful. They make both excellent warm matresses
and coverings for their beds; comfortable bonnets and gloves, and good
collars for the dogs' harness. Their flesh, and particularly the fat, are
considered as great delicacies.
The wolves are only seen in the winter; at which season they prowl about,
as I was told, in large companies, in search of prey.
There are rein-deer, both wild and tame, in several parts of the peninsula;
but none in the neighbourhood of Awatska. It is somewhat singular, that
this nation should never have used the rein-deer for the purposes of
carriage, in the same manner as their neighbours, both to the north and the
eastward. Their dogs, indeed, seem fully sufficient for all the demands of
the natives in their present state; and the breed of Russian horses will
probably increase with the future necessities of the country. But when it
is recollected, that the use of dogs, in a great measure, precludes them
from the advantage of bringing up any other domestic animals, it will
appear the more extraordinary, that they should not have adopted the
services of an animal so much more gentle as well as powerful.
The argali, or wild mountain-sheep,[67] an animal, I believe, unknown in
Europe, (except in Corsica and Sardinia,) is here in great plenty. Its skin
is like the deer's, but in gait and general appearance, it partakes more of
the goat. It has two large twisted horns, sometimes weighing, when at full
growth, from twenty-five to thirty pounds, which in, running it rests upon
its back. These creatures are exceedingly, nimble and swift, haunt only the
most craggy and mountainous parts, and make their way among the steepest
rocks with an agility that is astonishing. The natives work their horns
into spoons, and small cups and platters; and have frequently one of a
smaller size hanging to a belt, which serves them to drink out of in their
hunting expeditions. This animal is gregarious. I frequently tasted the
flesh of them, and thought it had a very sweet and delicate flavour; but
never had an opportunity of seeing one alive. I must, therefore, refer the
reader for a particular description of this beautiful animal, (for such it
is said to be,) to the Memoirs of the Academy of Petersburg, tom. iv. tab.
xiii.
I have already observed, that the dogs of this country are, in shape and
mien, exceedingly like the Pomeranian, with this difference, that they are
a great deal larger, and the hair somewhat coarser. They are of a variety
of colours; but the most general is a light dun, or dirty cream-colour.
Toward the end of May they are all turned loose, and left to provide for
themselves through the summer, being sure to return to their respective
homes when the snow begins to fall. Their food, in the winter, consists
entirely of the head, entrails, and back-bones of salmon; which are put
aside, and dried for that purpose; and with this diet they are fed but
sparingly. The number of dogs must needs be very great, since five are
yoked to a sledge, and a sledge carries but one person; so that on our
journey to Bolcheretsk, we required no fewer than an hundred and thirty-
nine, at the two stages of Karatchin and Natcheekin. It is also to be
remarked, that they never make use of bitches for the draft, nor dogs, but
those that are cut. The whelps are trained to this business, by being tied
to stakes with light leathern thongs, which, are made to stretch, and
having their victuals placed at a proper distance out of their reach; so
that by constantly pulling and labouring, in order to come at their food,
they acquire both the strength of limbs, and the habit of drawing, that are
necessary for their future destination.
The coasts and bays of this country are frequented by almost every kind of
northern sea-fowl; and amongst the rest are the sea-eagles, but not, as at
Oonalashka, in great numbers. The rivers inland (if I may judge from what I
saw in our journey to Bolcheretsk) are stored with numerous flocks of wild-
ducks of various species; one kind of which, in particular, has a most
beautiful plumage, and is called by the natives _a-an-gitche_; a word
intended to express its cry, which is not less singular than agreeable,
consisting of three distinct notes, rising, at equal intervals, above each
other.[68]
There is another species, called the mountain-duck,[69] which, Steller
says, is peculiar to Kamtschatka. The drake is covered with plumage of
extraordinary beauty. Besides these, we observed a variety of other water-
fowl, which, from their size, seemed to be of the wild-goose kind.
In the woods through which we passed, were seen several eagles of a
prodigious size; but of what species they were I cannot pretend to
determine. These are said to be of three different sorts; the black eagle,
with a white head, tail, and leg;[70] of which the eaglets are as white as
snow; the white eagle, so called, though in fact it is of a light grey; and
the lead, or stone-coloured eagle,[71] which is the most common; and
probably those I saw were of this sort. Of the hawk, falcon, and bustard
kind, there are great numbers.
This country likewise affords woodcocks, snipes, and two sorts of grouse,
or moor-game. Swans are also said to be in great plenty; and in their
entertainments, generally to make a part of the repast, though I do not
remember to have seen one on any occasion. The vast abundance of wild-fowl
with which the country is stored, was manifest from the numerous presents
we received from the _Toion_ of Saint Peter and Saint Paul; and which
sometimes consisted of twenty brace.
We met with no amphibious sea-animals on the coast, except seals, with
which the bay of Awatska swarmed; as they were at this time in pursuit of
the salmon that were collecting in shoals, and ready to ascend the rivers.
Some of them are said to pursue the fish into the fresh water, and to be
found in most of the lakes which communicate with the sea.
The sea-otters[72] are exactly the same with those we met with at Nootka
Sound, which have been already fully described, and where they are in great
plenty. They are also said to have been formerly in equal abundance here;
but, since the Russians have opened a trade for their skins to China, where
they are sold at a price much beyond that of any other kind of fur, they
have been hunted almost entirely out of the country. Amongst the Kurile
Islands they are still caught, though in no great numbers; but are of a
superior quality to those of Kamtschatka, or the American coast.
We are informed, that on Mednoi and Beering's Island, scarce a sea-otter is
now to be found; though it appears from Muller,[73] that in his time they
were exceedingly plentiful.
The Russian voyagers make mention of a great variety of amphibious sea-
animals, which are said to frequent these coasts; the reason why we saw no
other kinds might be, that this was the season of their migration.
Not having it in my power to treat these articles more fully, I conclude
them with the less regret, since the ingenious Mr Pennant has a work,
almost ready for publication, entitled, "Arctic Zoology;" in which the
learned will receive full information concerning the animals of this
peninsula. This gentleman has very obligingly communicated to me his
Catalogue of Arctic Animals, with reference to his work, and permission to
insert it. It will be found at the end of this section; and I feel myself
extremely happy in laying it before the reader, and thereby presenting him
with, what could have been furnished from no other quarter, one entire view
of Kamtschadale zoology.[74]
Fish may be considered as the staple article of food with which Providence
hath supplied the inhabitants of this peninsula; who, in general, must
never expect to draw any considerable part of their sustenance either from
grain or cattle. It is true, the soil, as has been remarked, affords some
good and nourishing roots, and every part of the country abounds in
berries; but though these alone would be insufficient for the support of
the people, yet, at the same time, they are necessary correctives of the
putrescent quality of their dried fish. In short, fish may, with much
greater justice, be here called the staff of life, than bread is in other
countries; since it appears, that neither the inhabitants, nor the only
domestic animal they have, the dog, could exist without it.
Whales are frequently seen, both in the sea of Okotzk, and on the side of
the eastern ocean, and, when caught, are turned to a variety of uses. Of
the skin they make the soles of their shoes, and straps and thongs for
various other purposes. The flesh they eat, and the fat is carefully
stored, both for kitchen use, and for their lamps. The whiskers are found
to be the best materials for sewing together the seams of their canoes;
they likewise make nets of them for the larger kind of fish; and with the
under-jaw-bones their sledges are shod. They likewise work the bones into
knives; and formerly the chains with which their dogs are tied, were made
of that material, though at present iron ones are generally used. The
intestines they clean, then blow and dry like bladders and it is in these
their oil and grease is stored; and of the nerves and veins, which are both
strong and slip readily, they make excellent snares; so that there is no
part of the whale which here does not find its use.
From the middle of May, till our departure on the 24th of June, we caught
great quantities of excellent flat-fish, trout, and herrings. Upward of
three hundred of the former, besides a number of sea-trout, were dragged
out at one haul of the seine, the 15th of May. These flat-fish are firm,
and of a good flavour, studded upon the back with round prickly knobs, like
turbot, and streaked with dark-brown lines, running from the head toward
the tail. About the end of May the first herring season begins. They
approach in great shoals, but do not remain long on the coast. They had
entirely left the bay before we sailed out of it the first time, but were
beginning to revisit it again in October. It has been already mentioned,
that the herrings were remarkably fine and large, and that we filled a
great part of our empty casks with them. The beginning of June large
quantities of excellent cod were taken; a part of which were likewise
salted. We caught too, at different times, numbers of small fish, much
resembling a smelt, and once drew out a wolf-fish.
Notwithstanding this abundance of flat-fish, cod, and herring, it is on the
salmon-fishery alone that the Kamtschadales depend for their winter
provisions. Of these, it is said by naturalists, there are to be found on
this coast all the different species that are known to exist, and which the
natives formerly characterized by the different months in which they ascend
the rivers. They say, too, that though the shoals of different sorts are
seen to mount the rivers at the same time, yet they never mix with each
other; that they always return to the same river in which they were bred,
but not till the third summer; that neither the male nor female live to
regain the sea; that certain species frequent certain rivers, and are never
found in others, though they empty themselves nearly at the same place.
The first shoals of salmon begin to enter the mouth of the Awatska about
the middle of May; and this kind, which is called by the Kamtschadales
_Tchavitsi_, is the largest and most valued. Their length is generally
about three feet and a half; they are very deep in proportion, and their
average weight is from thirty to forty pounds. The tail is not forked, but
straight. The back is of a dark blue, spotted with black; in other respects
they are much like our common salmon. They ascend the river with
extraordinary velocity, insomuch that the water is sensibly agitated by
their motion; and the Kamtschadales, who are always on the watch for them
about the time they are expected, judge of their approach by this
circumstance, and immediately let drop their nets before them. We were
presented with one of the first that was caught, and given to understand
that it was the greatest compliment that could be paid us. Krascheninnikoff
relates, that formerly the Kamtschadales made a point of eating the first
fish they took with great rejoicings, and a variety of superstitious
ceremonies; and that, after the Russians became their masters, it was for a
long time a constant subject of quarrel between them, to whom the first
should belong. The season for fishing for this species lasts from the
middle of May till the end of June.
The other sort is of a smaller kind, weighing only from eight to sixteen
pounds. They are known by the general name of the red fish, and begin to
collect in the bays and at the mouths of the rivers the beginning of June;
from, which time till the end of September, they are caught in great
quantities, both upon the eastern and western coast, where any fresh water
falls into the sea, and likewise all along the course of the rivers to
their very source. The manner in which they draw their nets within the bay
of Awatska is as follows: They tie one end of the net to a large stone at
the water's edge; they then push off in a canoe about twenty yards in a
right line, dropping their net as they advance, after which they turn and
run out the remainder of the net in a line parallel to the shore. In this
position they wait, concealing themselves very carefully in the boat, and
keeping a sharp look-out for the fish, which always direct their course
close in with the shore, and whose approach is announced by a rippling in
the water, till they find that the shoal has advanced beyond the boat, when
they shoot the canoe to shore in a direct line, and never fail of inclosing
their prey. Seldom more than two men are employed to a net, who haul with
facility, in this manner, seines larger than ours, to which we appoint a
dozen. We at first met with very poor success in our own method of hauling,
but after the Kamtschadales had very kindly put us in the way, we were not
less successful than themselves. In the rivers, they shoot one net across,
and haul another down the stream to it.
The lakes that have a communication with the sea, which was the case of all
those that I saw, abound with fish that have very much the resemblance of
small salmon, and are from four to six pounds weight. I could not
understand that the inhabitants thought it worth their while to fish for
them. As these lakes are not deep, they become an easy prey to the bears
and dogs during the summer; and, if I might judge from the quantity of
bones to be seen upon, the banks, they devour vast numbers of them.
The inhabitants, for the most part, dry their salmon, and salt very little
of it. Each fish is cut into three pieces, the belly-piece being first
taken off, and afterward a slice along each side the back-bone. The former
of these are dried and smoked, and esteemed the finest part of the fish,
and sold, when we were at Saint Peter and Saint Paul's, at the rate of one
hundred for a rouble. The latter are dried in the air, and either eaten
whole as bread, or reduced to powder, of which they make paste and cakes,
that are not unpleasant to the taste. The head, tail, and bones are hung
up, and dried for winter provision for the dogs.
_List of Animals found in Kamtschadale, communicated by Mr Pennant_.[75]
*Argali, wild sheep, Arct. _Capra ammon_, Lin. Syst. 97
Zool. vol. i. p. 12.
Ibex, _or_ wild goat 16 _Capra ibex_. 90
*Rein 22 _Cervus tarandus_. 93
*Wolf 38 _Canis lupus_. 53
*Dog 40
*Arctic fox 42 _Canis lagopus_. 59
*European fox 45 _Canis vulpes_. 59
* a. black 46
b. cross ib.
*Polar bear, in the Frozen Sea _Ursus Arctos_. 69
only 55
*Bear 57 _Ursus arctos_.
*Wolverene 66 _Ursus luscus_. 71
*Common weasel 75 _Mustela nivalis_. 69
*Stoat, _or_ ermine ib. _Mustela erminea_. 68
*Sable 79 _Mustela zibellina_. 68
Common otter 86 _Mustela lutra_. 66
*Sea otter 88 _Mustela lutris_. 66
*Varying hare 94 _Lepus timidus_.
Alpine hare 97
*Earless marmot 113 _Mus citellus_. 113
Bobak marmot 115
Water rat 130 _Mus amphibius_. 82
Common mouse 131 _Mus Musculus_. 83
OEconomic mouse 134
Red mouse 136
Ichelag mouse 138
Foetid shrew 139 _Sorex araneus_. 74
*Walrus. Icy sea 144 _Trichecus rosmarus_. 49
*Common seal 151 _Phoca vitulina_ 56
Great seal 159
Leporine seal 161
Harp seal 163
Rubbon seal. Kurile Isles 165
Ursine seal ib. _Phoca ursina_ 58
Leonine seal 172
*Whale-tailed manati 177
There were no domestic animals in Kamtschatka till they were introduced by
the Russians. The dogs, which seem to be of wolfish descent, are
aboriginal.
BIRDS.
LAND BIRDS.
I. Sea eagle. Vol. II. p. 194 _Falco ossifragus_ ..... 124
*Cinereous eagle ...... 2l4 _Vultur albiulla_ ...... 123
*White-headed eagle ... 196 _Falco leucocephalus_ .. ib.
Crying eagle ......... 215 (Latham, I.38.)
Osprey ............... 199 _Falco haliætus_ ....... 129
Peregrine falcon ..... 202 (Latham, I.73.[76])
Goshawk .............. 204 _Falco palumbarius_..... 130
II. Eagle owl ............ 228 _Strix bubo_ ........... 131
Snowy owl ............ 233 _Strix nyctea_.......... 132
III Raven ................ 246 _Corvus corax_.......... 155
Magpye ............... 147 _Corvus pica_ .......... 157
Nutcracker ........... 252 _Corvus caryocatactes_.. ib.
IV. Cuckoo ............... 266 _Cuculus canorus_ ...... 168
V. Wryneck .............. 267 _Jynx torquilla_ ....... 172
VI. Nuthatch ............. 281 _Sitta Europea_ ....... 177
VII. White grous .......... 308 _Tetrao lagopus_ ....... 274
Wood grous ........... 312 _Tetrao urogallus_ ..... 273
VIII. Water ouzel .......... 332 _Sturnus cinclus_
IX. Fieldfare ............ 340 _Turdus pilaris_ ...... 291
Redwing thrush ....... 341 _Turdus iliacus_ ...... 291
Kamtschatkan ......... 343 (Latham, III. 23.)
X. Greenfinch ........... 353 _Loxia chloris_ ........ 304
XI. Golden bunting ....... 367 (Latham, II. 201.)
XII. Lesser red-headed \
linnet .............. 379/ (Latham, II. 305.)
XIII. Dun flycatcher ....... 390 (Latham, II. 351.)
XIV. Sky-lark ............. 394A. _Alauda arsensis_ ..... 287
Wood-lark ............ 395B. _Alauda arborea_ ...... ib.
XV. White wagtail ........ 396E. _Motacilla alba_ ...... 331
Yellow wagtail ....... ib.F. _Motacilla flava_ ..... ib.
Tschutski wagtail .... 397H. (Latham, IV. 403.)
XVI. Yellow wren .......... 413 _Motacilla trochilus_. 338
Redstart ............. 416 _Motacilla phænicurus_. 335
Longbilled ........... 420
Stapazina ............ 421 _Motacilla stapazina_. 331
Awatska .............. 422
XVII. Marsh titmouse ....... 427 _Paras palustris_ ..... 341
XVIII.Chimney swallow ...... 429 _Hirundo rustica_ ..... 343
Martin ............... 430 _Hirundo urbica_ ..... 344
Sand martin .......... ib. _Hirundo riparia_ .... ib.
XIX. European goatsucker ... 437 _Caprimulgus Europeus_. 346
WATER FOWL.
_Cloven-footed Water Fowl_.
Crane P.453 A. _Ardeagrus_ 334
Curlew P.462 A. _Scolopax arquata_ 242
Whimbrel P.462 B. _Scolopax phæopus_ 243
Common sandpiper No 388 _Tringa hypoleucos_ 250
Gambet No 394 _Tringa gambetta_ 248
Golden plover No 399 _Charadrius pluvialis_ 254
Pied oyster-catcher No _Hæmatopus ostralegus_ 257
_With pinnated Feet_.
Plain phalarope.
_With webbed Feet_.
Wandering albatross No 423 _Diomedea exulans_ 214
Razor-bill hawk No 425 _Alca torda_ 210
Puffin No 427 _Alca arctica_ 211
Antient No 430
Pygmy No 431
Tufted No 432
Parroquet No 433
Crested No 434
Dusky No 435
Foolish guillemot No 436 _Colymbus troille_ 220
Black guillemot No 437 _Colymbus grylle_. ib.
Marbled guillemot No 438
Imber diver No 440 _Colymbus immer_ 222
Speckled diver No 441
Red-throated diver No 443 _Colymbus septentrionalis_ 220
Great tern No 448 _Sterna hirundo_.
Kamtschatkan P.525 A.
Black-headed gull No 455 _Larus ridibundus_ 225
Kittiwake gull No 456 _Larus rissa_ 224
Ivory gull No 457
Arctic gull No 459
Tarrock P.533D._Larus tridactylus_. ib.
Red-legged P.533 E.
Fulmar petrel No 464 _Procellaria glacialis_ 213
Stormy petrel No 464 _Procellaria pelagica_ 212
Kurile petrel P.536 A.
Blue petrel.[77] Preface.
Goosander merganser No 465 _Mergus merganser_ 208
Smew No 468 _Mergus albellus_ 209
Whistling swan No 469 _Anas Cygnus ferus_ 194 A.
Great goose P.570
Chinese goose P.571 _Anas cygnoides_ 194 B.
Snow goose No 477
Brent goose No 478 _Anas bernicla_ 198
Eider duck No 480 _Anas molitsima_ ib.
Black duck No 483 _Anas spectabilis_ 195
Velvet duck No 481 _Anas fusca_ 196
Shoveler No 485 _Anas clypeata_ 200
Golden eye No 486 _Anas clangula_ 201
Harlequin No 490 _Anas histrionica_ 204
Mallard No 494 _Anas boschas_ 205
* Western No 497
Pintail No 500 _Anas acuta_ 202
* Longtailed No 501 _Anas glacialis_ 203
Morillon P.573 F. _Anas glaucion_ 201
Shieldrake P.572 D. _Anas tadorna_ 195
Tufted P.573 G. _Anas fuligula_ 207
Falcated P.574 I.
Garganey P.576 O. _Anas querquedula_ 263
Teal P.577 P. _Anas crecia_ 204
Corvorant No 509 _Pelecanus carbo_ 216
Violet corvorant P.584 B.
Red-faced corvorant P.584 C.
[42] Some doubt may be entertained of the propriety with which Captain King
has occupied so large a portion of his volume as two chapters, or
sections, with a subject, respecting which it is most certain, his
knowledge must have resulted from almost any thing else than his own
personal observation. There is force in the objection. But it must be
allowed on the other hand, that there was no inconsiderable inducement
to supply the public with a tolerable share of information concerning
a country which, distant and uncultivated as it was, seemed
notwithstanding to be entitled to more regard than had usually been
paid to it. Steller's work, of which he has properly availed himself,
had been but recently published, viz. in 1774, and in all probability
had not hitherto occupied much attention. The earlier accounts,
whether published separately as that of Krascheninnikof, an English
translation of which appeared at Gloucester in 1764, or contained in
other works, as an article in Pallas's New Memoirs of the North, were
perhaps still less consulted. Captain King's description, therefore,
supposing the subject in any degree entitled to notice, was neither
unnecessary nor unprofitable. It has been generally employed as the
basis of the subsequent accounts which have been inserted in
gazetteers and treatises of geography. But there have been several
works, entitled to the consideration of being original, published
since its appearance, from which some additions might be obtained, or
which point out reasons for correction,--not so much however, it is
proper to remark, because of errors committed by Captain K., as
because of alterations occurred in the country since his time. A few
of these, unfortunately not much for the better, have been stated, or
will be so, on the authority of one of the last visitors to
Kamtschatka, Captain Krusenstern. This gentleman, however, it ought to
be understood, admits the general accuracy of the previous accounts
given by Krascheninnikof, Steller, and King, and therefore, avoiding
repetition, restricts himself almost entirely to the mention of the
most material changes which have taken place during the last thirty
years. This will readily be allowed enough for our present purpose,
exclusive of any attention to the other productions which have treated
of Kamtschatka, in the intermediate period.--E.
[43] It is in the vicinity of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, Krusenstern
allows, that the climate is so unfavourable, and the soil, in
consequence, so ungrateful. But he specifies reasons for believing that
the middle provinces of Kamtschatska are equal, if not superior, to
many in European Russia, in respect of natural advantages, though
certainly far less indebted to the hand of man. He tells us, however,
that in the interior, several species of corn are brought to
perfection and many kinds of vegetables are cultivated. In his opinion
the climate is not so bad as it has generally been represented, and he
is convinced that the indolence of the inhabitants, and the incapacity
occasioned by the immoderate use of spirits, are far more in fault as
to the deficiency or unproductiveness of the soil, than the frequent
fogs which are so much complained of, or any other unkindness on the
part of nature. In proof of this, he maintains that the officers who
are garrisoned here, have laid out gardens for themselves, which, by
proper care, yield almost every kind of vegetable necessary for the
table, and that too in quantities beyond the usual demand. Besides the
materially efficient checks already mentioned, this gentleman
specifies a very unreasonable notion, pretty commonly entertained,
which has operated extensively in limiting the productions of the
earth, and from which not even the officers who had been successful in
their particular pursuits were altogether exempt. The notion to which
he alludes is, that it would be useless to commence cultivating their
gardens before the month of July, although, to his certain knowledge,
June was _as beautiful as it can possibly be in the most favoured
climate_, and though, according to Captain King, wild garlic, cellery,
and nettles, were gathered for his crew in the month of May. The
inference from this last circumstance seems obviously correct. "If,"
says Krusenstern, "in the middle of May so much is already produced
without any cultivation at all, I think I do not assert too much in
saying they ought to begin to lay out their gardens in this month."
This conclusion appears still more importantly authoritative from what
he relates on his own experience. "I passed all the summer months in
Kamtschatka," says he, "during the two years of my absence; that is to
say, the whole of June, a part of July, and the whole of August and
September, and can affirm with confidence, that, in these four months,
there are just as many pleasant cheerful days as in any other place
under the same latitude." On the whole then, one may readily concur in
sentiment with this intelligent officer, that did the government adopt
very different measures from those which have hitherto been in force,
and were certain practices and prejudices abolished, Kamtschatka might
afford as good and cheap living as many other provinces of the Russian
empire. To most readers, it is probable, this will seem no very mighty
recommendation. Relatively, however, to the person who makes it, and
to those to whom it is addressed, it must be allowed to possess a
virtue of no common magnitude or efficacy. Perhaps it is necessary to
state for the credit of this writer, that some of the immediately
following remarks of Captain King, much as they seem at first sight to
oppose one of his opinions above approved of, will be found on
attentive consideration perfectly reconcileable with them, more
particularly if it be remembered that in other countries where much
snow falls during the winter, nothing is more usual than to find, on
its disappearance, that the earth is covered with a rich and healthy
vegetation which a thick coating of that substance, known to be a bad
conductor of heat, had preserved from the rigors of the season.--E.
[44] Krascheninnikoff says, that the tree here spoken of is a dwarf cedar,
for that there is not a pine in the peninsula.
[45] Krascheninnikoff says, that the natives likewise convert the bark into
a pleasant wholesome food, by stripping it off whilst it is young and
green, and cutting it into long narrow stripes, like _vermicelli_,
drying it, and stewing it afterward along with their _caviar_.
[46] Gmelin, p. 41. Steller enumerates five different species of this
plant.
[47] Lonicera pedunclis bifloris, floribus infundibili formis, bacciâ
solitariâ, oblongâ, angulosâ. Gmel. Flor. Sib.
[48] Myrtillus grandis cæruleus.
[49] Epilobium.
[50] Chærephyllum seminibus levibus.
[51] Tradescantia fructu molli edulo.
[52] Bistorta foliis ovatis, oblongis, acuminatis.
[53] Jacobea foliis cannabis. Steller.
[54] Anemonoides et ranunculus.
[55] Gmel. Sib. Tom. i. p. 119. Tab. XXV.
[56] Canis vulpes.
[57] Mustela zibellina.
[58] Rivers emptying themselves into the Lena, near its source.
[59] Canis lagopus.
[60] Lepus timidus.
[61] Mus citellus.
[62] Mustela erminea.
[63] Mustela nivalis.
[64] Ursus luseus.
[65] Krascheninnikoff relates, that this small animal frequently destroys
deer, and the wild mountain sheep, in the following way: They scatter
at the bottom of trees bark and moss, which those animals are fond of;
and whilst they are picking it up, drop suddenly upon them, and,
fastening behind the head, suck out their eyes.
[66] The Koriacks make use of a very simple method of catching bears. They
suspend, between the forks of a tree, a running noose; within which
they fasten a bait, which the animal, endeavouring to pull away, is
caught sometimes by the neck, and sometimes by the paw.
[67] Capra ammon, or wild sheep. Arct, Zool. i. p. 12.
[68] Mr Steller has made the following scale of its cry:
[Illustration:
F-A- C |F-A- C
a-an-gitche a-an-gitche.
]
For a further account of this bird, I must refer the reader to
Krascheninnikoff, vol. ii. part 4.
[69] Anas picta, capita pulchrè fasciato. Steller.
[70] Falco leucocephalus.
[71] Vultur albiulla.
[72] Mustela lutris.
[73] English translation, p. 59.
[74] Few readers, it is probable, will require the information, that the
work of Mr Pennant, here alluded to, was published not very long after
the appearance of this voyage, viz. in 1784. In consequence of this
circumstance, it might be thought unnecessary to insert the table or
catalogue of animals now spoken of. But, on the whole, there appeared
more propriety in risking the offence of repetition with those who
possess Mr P.'s work, than in disappointing those who do not.--E.
[75] The quadrupeds and birds mentioned in this part of the voyage are
marked in this list with an asterisk.
[76] The birds, which are not described by Linnæus's, are referred to the
History of Birds, published by Mr Latham, surgeon in Dartford, Kent.
[77] I never saw this, but it is mentioned by Mr Ellis. I had omitted it in
my zoologic part.