Return to the Harbour of Saint Peter and St Paul.--Promotion of Officers.--
Funeral of Captain Clerke.--Damages of the Discovery repaired.--Various
other Occupations of the Ships' Crews.--Letters from the Commander.--Supply
of Flour and Naval Stores from a Russian Galliot.--Account of an Exile.--
Bear-hunting and fishing Parties.--Disgrace of the Serjeant.--Celebration
of the King's Coronation Day, and Visit from the Commander.--The Serjeant
reinstated.--A Russian Soldier promoted at our Request.--Remarks on the
Discipline of the Russian Army.--Church at Paratounca.--Method of Bear-
hunting--Farther Account of the Bears and Kamtschadales.--Inscription to
the Memory of Captain Clerke.--Supply of Cattle.--Entertainments on the
Empress's Name Day.--Present from the Commander.--Attempt of a Marine to
desert.--Work out of the Bay.--Nautical and Geographical Description of
Awatska Bay.--Astronomical Tables and Observations.
I sent Mr Williamson to acquaint Captain Gore with the death of Captain
Clerke, and received a letter from him, ordering me to use all my
endeavours to keep in company with the Discovery; and, in case of a
separation, to make the best of my way to the harbour of Saint Peter and
Saint Paul. At noon, we were in latitude 53° 8' N., longitude 160° 40' E.,
with Cheepoonskoi Noss bearing W. We had light airs in the afternoon, which
lasted through the forenoon of the 23d. At noon, a fresh breeze springing
up from the eastward, we stood in for the entrance of Awatska Bay; and, at
six in the evening, saw it bearing W.N.W. 1/2 W., distant five leagues. At
eight, the light-house, in which we now found a good light, bore N.W. by
W., three miles distant. The wind about this time died away; but the tide
being in our favour, we sent the boats ahead, and towed beyond the narrow
parts of the entrance; and, at one o'clock in the morning of the 24th, the
ebb tide setting against us, we dropped anchor. At nine we weighed, and
turned up the bay with light airs, and the boats still ahead till one;
when, by the help of a fresh breeze, we anchored before three in the
afternoon in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, with our ensign
half staff up, on account of our carrying the body of our late captain, and
were soon after followed by the Discovery.
We had no sooner anchored than our old friend the serjeant, who was still
the commander of the place, came on board with a present of berries,
intended for our poor deceased captain. He was exceedingly affected when we
told him of his death, and shewed him the coffin that contained his body.
And as it was Captain Clerke's particular request to be buried on shore,
and, if possible, in the church of Paratounca, we took the present
opportunity of explaining this matter to the serjeant, and consulting with
him about the proper steps to be taken on the occasion. In the course of
our conversation, which, for want of an interpreter, was carried on but
imperfectly, we learned that Professor De L'lsle and several other
gentlemen who died here, had been buried in the ground near the barracks at
the _ostrog_ of Saint Peter and Saint Paul's; and that this place would be
preferable to Paratounca, as the church was to be removed thither the next
year. It was therefore determined that we should wait for the arrival of
the priest of Paratounca, whom the serjeant advised us to send for, as the
only person that could satisfy our enquiries on this subject. The serjeant
having, at the same time, signified his intention of sending off an express
to the commander at Bolcheretsk, to acquaint him with our arrival, Captain
Gore availed himself of that occasion of writing him a letter, in which he
requested that sixteen head of black cattle might be sent with all possible
expedition. And because the commander did not understand any language
except his own, the nature of our request was made known to the serjeant,
who readily undertook to send, along with our letter, an explanation of its
contents.
We could not help remarking, that, although the country was much improved
in its appearance since we were last here, the Russians looked, if
possible, worse now than they did then. It is to be owned, they observed,
that this was also the case with us; and, as neither party seemed to like
to be told of their bad looks, we found mutual consolation in throwing the
blame upon the country, whose green and lively complexion, we agreed, cast
a deadness and sallowness upon our own.
The eruption of the _volcano_, which was so violent when we sailed out of
the bay, we found had done no damage here, notwithstanding stones had
fallen at the _ostrog_ of the size of a goose's egg. This was all the news
we had to enquire after, and all they had to tell, excepting that of the
arrival of Soposnikoff from Oonalashka, who took charge of the packet
Captain Cook had sent to the Admiralty, and which, it gave us much
satisfaction to find, had been forwarded.
In the morning of the 25th, Captain Gore made out the new commissions, in
consequence of Captain Clerke's death, appointing himself to the command of
the Resolution, and me to the command of the Discovery; and Mr Lanyan,
master's mate of the Resolution, who had served in that capacity on board
the Adventure in the former voyage, was promoted to the vacant lieutenancy.
These promotions produced the following farther arrangements: Lieutenants
Burney and Rickman were removed from the Discovery to be first and second
lieutenants of the Resolution; and lieutenant Williamson was appointed
first lieutenant of the Discovery. Captain Gore also permitted me to take
into the Discovery four midshipmen, who had made themselves useful to me in
astronomical calculations, and whose assistance was now particularly
necessary; as we had no _ephemeris_ for the present year. And, that
astronomical observations might continue to be made in both ships, Mr
Bayley took my place in the Resolution. The same day we were visited by the
Pope Romanoff Vereshagen, the worthy priest of Paratounca. He expressed his
sorrow at the death of Captain Clerke in a manner that did honour to his
feelings, and confirmed the account given by the serjeant respecting the
intended removal of the church to the harbour, adding, that the timber was
actually preparing, but leaving the choice of either place entirely to
Captain Gore.
The Discovery, as has been mentioned, had suffered great damage from the
ice, particularly on the 23d day of July; and having ever since been
exceedingly leaky, it was imagined that some of her timbers had started.
Captain Gore therefore sent the carpenters of the Resolution to assist our
own in repairing her; and, accordingly, the forehold being cleared, to
lighten her forward, they were set to work, to rip the damaged sheathing
from the larboard bow. This operation discovered, that three feet of the
third strake, under the wale, were staved and the timbers within started. A
tent was next erected for the accommodation of such of our people as were
employed on shore; and a party were sent a mile into the country, to the
northward of the harbour, to fell timber. The observatories were erected at
the west end of the village, near a tent in which Captain Gore and myself
took up our abode.
The farther we proceeded in removing the sheathing, the more we discovered
of the decayed state of the ship's hull. The next morning, eight feet of a
plank in the wale were found to be so exceedingly rotten, as to make it
necessary to shift it. This left us for some time at a stand, as nothing
was to be found in either ship wherewith to replace it, unless we chose to
cut up a top-mast, an expedient not to be had recourse to, till all others
failed. The carpenters were, therefore, sent on shore in the afternoon, in
search of a tree big enough for the purpose. Luckily they found a birch,
which I believe was the only one of sufficient size in the whole
neighbourhood of the bay, and which had been sawed down by us when we were
last here; so that it had the advantage of having lain some time to season.
This was shaped on the spot, and brought on board the next morning.
As the season was now so far advanced, I was fearful lest any delay or
hindrance should arise, on our parts, to Captain Gore's farther views of
discovery, and therefore gave orders that no more sheathing should be
ripped off than was absolutely necessary for repairing the damages
sustained by the ice. This I did, being apprehensive of their meeting with
more decayed planks, which, I judged, had much better remain in that state,
than be filled up with green birch, upon a supposition that such was to be
had. All hands were at present busily employed in separate duties, that
every thing might be in readiness for sea against the time our carpenters
should have finished their work. We set apart four men to haul the seine
for salmon, which were caught in great abundance, and found to be of an
excellent quality. After supplying the immediate wants of both ships, we
salted down near a hogshead a day. The invalids, who were four in number,
were employed in gathering greens, and in cooking for the parties on shore.
Our powder was also landed, in order to be dried; and the seahorse blubber,
with which both ships, in our passage to the north, (as has been before
related,) had stored themselves, was now boiled down for oil, which was
become a necessary article, our candles having long since been expended.
The cooper was fully engaged in his department; and in this manner were
both ships' companies employed in their several occupations, till Saturday
afternoon, which was given up to all our men, except the carpenters, for
the purpose of washing their linen, and getting their clothes in some
little order, that they might make a decent appearance on Sunday.
In the afternoon of that day, we paid the last offices to Captain Clerke.
The officers and men of both ships walked in procession to the grave,
whilst the ships fired minute-guns; and the service being ended, the
marines fired three vollies. He was interred under a tree which stands on
rising ground, in the valley to the north side of the harbour, where the
hospital and store-houses are situated; Captain Gore having judged this
situation most agreeable to the last wishes of the deceased, for the
reasons above-mentioned; and the priest of Paratounca having pointed out a
spot for his grave, which, he said, would be, as near as he could guess, in
the centre of the new church. This reverend pastor walked in the procession
along with the gentleman who read the service; and all the Russians in the
garrison were assembled, and attended with great respect and solemnity.
On the 30th, the different parties returned to their respective
employments, as mentioned in the course of the preceding week; and, on the
2d of September, the carpenters having shifted the rotten and damaged
planks, and repaired and caulked the sheathing of the larboard bow,
proceeded to rip off the sheathing that had been injured by the ice, from
the starboard side. Here again they discovered four feet of a plank, in the
third strake under the wale, so shaken, as to make it necessary to be
replaced. This was accordingly done, and the sheathing repaired on the 3d.
In the afternoon of the same day, we got on board some ballast, unhung the
rudder, and sent it on shore, the lead of the pintles being found entirely
worn away, and a great part of the sheathing rubbed off. As the carpenters
of the Resolution were not yet wanted, we got this set to rights the next
day, but finding the rudder out of all proportion heavy, even heavier than
that of the Resolution, we let it remain on shore in order to dry and
lighten.
The same day an ensign arrived from Bolcheretsk with a letter from the
commander to Captain Gore, which we put into the serjeant's hands, and, by
his assistance, were made to understand, that orders had been given about
the cattle, and that they might be expected here in the course of a few
days; and, moreover, that Captain Shmaleff, the present commander, would
himself pay us a visit immediately on the arrival of a sloop which was
daily expected from Okotzk. The young officer who brought the letter was
the son of the Captain-lieutenant Synd, who commanded an expedition on
discovery, between Asia and America, eleven years ago, and resided at this
time at Okotzk.[35] He informed us, that he was sent to receive our
directions, and to take care to get us supplied with whatever our service
might require; and that he should remain with us till the commander was
himself able to leave Bolcheretsk; after which he was to return, that the
garrison there might not be left without an officer.
On the 5th, the parties that were on shore returned on board, and were
employed in scrubbing the ship's bottom, and getting in eight tons of
shingle ballast. We also got up two of our guns that had been stowed in the
fore-hold, and mounted them on the deck, being now about to visit nations,
our reception amongst whom might a good deal depend on the respectability
of our appearance.
The Resolution hauled on shore on the 8th, to repair some damage which she
had also received among the ice, in her cut-water, and our carpenters in
their turn, were sent to her assistance.
About this time we began to brew a strong decoction of a species of dwarf-
pine that grows here in great abundance, thinking that it might hereafter
be useful in making beer, and that we should probably be able to procure
sugar or molasses to ferment with it at Canton. At all events I was sure it
would be serviceable as a medicine for the scurvy; and was more
particularly desirous of supplying myself with as much of it as I could
procure, because most of the preventatives we had brought out were either
used, or spoiled by keeping. By the time we had prepared a hogshead of it,
the ship's copper was discovered to be very thin, and cracked in many
places. This obliged me to desist, and to give orders that it should be
used as sparingly for the future as possible. It might, perhaps, be an
useful precaution for those who may hereafter be engaged in long voyages of
this kind, either to provide themselves with a spare copper, or to see that
the copper usually furnished be of the strongest kind. The various extra-
services, in which it will be found necessary to employ them, and
especially the important one of making antiscorbutic decoctions, seem
absolutely to require some such provision; and I should rather recommend
the former, on account of the additional quantity of fuel that would be
consumed in heating thick coppers.
In the morning of the 10th, the boats from both ships were sent to tow into
the harbour a Russian galliot from Okotzk. She had been thirty-five days on
her passage, and had been seen from the light-house a fortnight ago,
beating up toward the mouth of the bay. At that time the crew had sent
their only boat on shore for water, of which they now began to be in great
want; and the wind freshening, the boat was lost on its return, and the
galliot, being driven out to sea again, had suffered exceedingly.
There were fifty soldiers in her, with their wives and children, and
several other passengers, besides the crew, which consisted of twenty-five,
so that they had upward of an hundred souls on board. A great number for a
vessel of eighty tons; and that was also heavy laden with stores and
provisions. Both this galliot, and the sloop we saw here in May, are built
like the Dutch doggers. Soon after she had come to anchor, we received a
visit from a _put-parouchick_, or sub-lieutenant, who was a passenger in
the galliot, and sent to take the command of this place. Part of the
soldiers, we understood, were also designed to reinforce the garrison; and
two pieces of small cannon were landed, as an additional defence to the
town. It should seem, from these circumstances, that our visit here had
drawn the attention of the Russian commanders in Siberia, to the
defenceless situation of the place; and I was told by the honest serjeant,
with many significant shrugs, that, as we had found our way into it, other
nations might do the same, some of whom might not be altogether so
welcome.[36]
Next morning the Resolution hauled off from the shore, having repaired the
damages she had sustained by the ice; and, in the course of the day, we got
from the galliot a small quantity of pitch, tar, cordage, and twine; canvas
was the only thing we asked for, with which their scanty store did not put
it into their power to supply us. We also received from her an hundred and
forty skins of flour, amounting to 13,782 pounds English, after deducting
five pounds for the weight of each bag.
We had a constant course of dry weather till this day, when there came on a
heavy rain, accompanied with strong squalls of wind, which obliged us to
strike our yards and topmasts.
The 12th, being Sunday, was kept as a day of rest; but the weather
unfortunately continuing foul, our men could not derive the advantage from
it we wished, by gathering the berries that grew in great quantities and
varieties on the coast, and taking other pastime on shore. The same day
Ensign Synd left us to return to Bolcheretsk with the remainder of the
soldiers that came in the galliot. He had been our constant guest during
his stay. Indeed we could not but consider him, on his father's account, as
in some measure belonging to us, and entitled, as one of the family of
discoverers, to a share in our affections.
We had hitherto admitted the serjeant to our tables, in consideration of
his being commander of the place; and, moreover, because he was a quick,
sensible man, and comprehended better than any other, the few Russian words
we had learned. Ensign Synd had very politely suffered him to enjoy the
same privileges during his stay; but, on the arrival of the new commander
from Okotzk, the serjeant, for some cause or other, which we could not
learn, fell into disgrace, and was no longer suffered to sit down in the
company of his own officers. It was in vain to think of making any attempt
to obtain an indulgence, which, though it would have been highly agreeable
to us, was doubtless incompatible with their discipline.
On Wednesday we had finished the stowage of the holds, got on board all our
wood and water, and were ready to put to sea at a day's notice. It is
however necessary to observe, that though every thing was in this degree of
readiness on board, the cattle were not yet arrived from Verchnei; and as
fresh provisions were the most important article of our wants, and in a
great measure necessary for the health of the men, we could not think of
taking our departure without them. We therefore thought this a favourable,
opportunity (especially as there was an appearance of fine weather) of
taking some amusement on shore, and acquiring a little knowledge of the
country. Accordingly Captain Gore proposed a party of bear-hunting, which
we all very readily came into.
We did not set out on this expedition till Friday the 17th, in order to
give a day's rest to the Hospodin Ivaskin, a new acquaintance, that was to
be of our party, and who came down here on Wednesday. This gentleman who,
we understood, usually resides at Verchnei, had been desired by Major Behm
to attend us on our return to the harbour, in order to be our interpreter;
and the accounts we had heard of him before his arrival had excited in us a
great curiosity to see him.
He is of a considerable family in Russia. His father was a general in the
empress's service; and he himself, after having received his education
partly in France, and partly in Germany, had been page to the Empress
Elizabeth, and an ensign in her guards. At the age of sixteen he was
_knowted_, had his nose slit, and was banished first to Siberia, and
afterward to Kamtschatka, where he had now lived thirty-one years. He was a
very tall thin man, with a face all over furrowed with deep wrinkles; and
bore in his whole figure the strongest marks of old age, though he had
scarcely reached his fifty-fourth year.
To our very great disappointment he had so totally forgotten both his
German and French, as not to be able to speak a sentence, nor readily to
understand what was said to him in either of these languages. We found
ourselves thus unfortunately deprived of what we flattered ourselves would
have turned out a favourable opportunity of getting farther information
relative to this country. We had also promised ourselves much pleasure from
the history of this extraordinary man, which he probably would have been
induced to relate to strangers, who might perhaps be of some little service
to him, but who could have no inducement to take advantage from any thing
he might say to do him an injury. No one here knew the cause of his
banishment, but they took it for granted that it must have been for
something very atrocious, particularly as two or three commanders of
Kamtschatka have endeavoured to get him recalled since the present
empress's reign; but far from succeeding in this, they have not been even
able to get the place of his banishment changed. He told us that for twenty
years he had not tasted bread, nor had been allowed subsistence of any kind
whatsoever; but that during this period he had lived among the
Kamtschadales on what his own activity and toil in the chase had furnished:
That afterward he had a small pension granted; and that, since Major Behm
came to the command, his situation had been, infinitely mended. The notice
that worthy man had taken of him, and his having often invited him to
become his guest, had been the occasion of others following his example;
besides which, he had been the means of getting his pension increased to
one hundred roubles a year, which is the common pay of an ensign in all
parts of the empress's dominions, except in this province, where the pay of
all the officers is double. Major Behm told us that he had obtained
permission to take him to Okotzk, which was to be the place of his
residence in future; but that he should leave him behind for the present,
on an idea that he might, on our return to the bay, be useful to us as an
interpreter.[37]
Having given orders to the first lieutenants of both ships, to let the
rigging have such a repair as the supply of stores we had lately received
would permit, we set out on our hunting party, under the direction of the
corporal of the Kamtschadales, intending, before we began to look for our
game, to proceed straight to the head of Behm's Harbour. It is an inlet on
the west side of the bay, (which we had named after that officer, from its
being a favourite place of his, and having been surveyed by himself,) and
is called by the natives Tareinska.
In our way toward this harbour we met the _Toion_ of Saint Peter and Saint
Paul in a canoe, with his wife and two children, and another Kamtschadale.
He had killed two seals upon a round island, that lies in the entrance of
the harbour, with which, and a great quantity of berries that he had
gathered, he was returning home. As the wind had veered to the S.W., we now
changed our route by his advice; and, instead of going up the harbour,
directed our course to the northward, toward a pool of water that lies near
the mouth of the river Paratounca, and which was a known haunt of the
bears. We had scarce landed, when unfortunately the wind changed to the
eastward, and a second time destroyed all hopes of coming up with our game;
for the Kamtschadales assured us, that it was in vain to expect to meet
with bears, whilst we were to the windward, owing to their being possessed
of an uncommon acuteness in scenting their pursuers, which enabled them,
under such circumstances, to avoid the danger, whilst it is yet at a very
great distance. We returned therefore to the boat, and passed the night on
the beach, having brought a tent with us for that purpose, and the next
day, by the advice of our guides, crossed the bay, and went to the head of
Rakoweena Harbour.
Having here secured the boats, we proceeded with all our luggage on foot,
and, after a walk of five or six miles, came to the sea-side, a league to
the northward of the light-house head. From hence, as far as we could see
toward Cheepoonskoi Noss, there is a continued narrow border of low level
ground adjoining to the sea, which is covered with heath, and produces
great abundance of berries, particularly those called partridge and crow
berries. We were told we should not fail to meet with a number of bears
feeding upon those berries; but that the weather being showery, was
unfavourable for us.
Accordingly we directed our course along this plain, and, though we saw
several bears at a distance, we could never, with all our management,
contrive to get within shot of them. Our diversion was therefore changed to
spearing of salmon, which we saw pushing in great numbers through the surf
into a small river. I could not help observing how much inferior our
Kamtschadales were, at this method of fishing, to the people at Oonalashka;
nor were their instruments, although pointed with iron, near so good for
the purpose, nor to be compared in neatness to those of the Americans,
though pointed only with bone. On enquiring into the reason of this
inferiority, I was informed by the corporal, who had lived many years
amongst the Americans, that formerly the Kamtschadales made use of the same
kind of darts and spears with the Americans, headed and barbed with bone,
and were not less dexterous in the management of them than the latter. We
could not understand one another sufficiently for me to learn the cause of
this change; probably it was one of the not unusual effects of a forced and
imperfect state of improvement. It fell out very opportunely that the water
afforded us a little prey; for, besides our ill success in the chase by
land, we had also been disappointed in our expectations of shooting wild
fowl, on a supply of which we had in some measure depended for our
subsistence; and, on its failure, began to think that we had been full long
absent from head quarters.
Our Kamtschadales now discovered that the want of success in not meeting
with game, was owing to the party being too large, and to the unavoidable
noise that was the consequence of it. We therefore agreed to separate,
Ivaskin, the corporal, and myself, forming one party, Captain Gore, and the
rest of the company, the other.
Accordingly, after passing the night under our tent, we set out on the
morning of the 19th, by different routes, meaning to take a circuit round
the country, and meet at Saint Peter and Saint Paul. The party to which I
belonged took the course of the river, at the mouth of which we had fished
for the salmon; and, after being thoroughly soaked by the heavy rains that
fell all the morning, we came about three in the afternoon to some old
_balagans_, where a Kamtschadale village had been formerly situated,
without meeting with a single bear during the whole of a long and tedious
walk. It was our first intention to have remained here all night, in order
to have resumed our chase early the next morning; but the weather clearing,
and, at the same time, a fresh breeze springing up from a quarter
unfavourable to our designs, the Hospodin, whom former sufferings had made
very unfit to bear much fatigue, and who seemed at present more
particularly distressed from having emptied his snuff-box, began to be very
importunate with us to return home. It was some time before the old
corporal consented, alleging, that we were at a great distance from the
harbour, and that, on account of the badness of the way, the night would
probably overtake us before we reached the end of our journey. At length,
however, he yielded to Ivaskin's entreaties, and conducted us along the
side of a number of small lakes, with which the flat part of this country
seems much to abound. These lakes are from half a mile to two miles in
length, and about half a mile broad; the water is fresh and clear, and they
are full of a red-coloured fish, resembling, both in shape and size, a
small salmon; of which a more particular description will be given
hereafter. The banks of these lakes were covered with fragments of fish
that the bears had half eaten, and which caused an intolerable stench. We
often came upon the spots which the bears had just left, but were never
able even to come within sight of them.
It was night before we reached the ships, and we had then been twelve hours
upon our legs. Poor Ivaskin found himself exceedingly tired and overcome
with fatigue; probably he was more sensible of it for want of a supply of
snuff; for every step he took his hand dived mechanically into his pocket,
and drew out his huge empty box. We had scarcely got into the tent, when
the weather set in exceedingly rough and wet. We congratulated ourselves
that we had not staid out another day, the Hospodin's box was replenished,
and we forgot the fatigues and ill success of our expedition over a good
supper.
I was exceedingly sorry, on being told the next day, that our friend the
serjeant had undergone corporal punishment during our absence, by command
of the old _Putparouchick_. None of our people had been able to learn, what
was the cause of his displeasure; but it was imagined to have arisen from
some little jealousy subsisting between them, on account of the civility
which we had shewn to the former. However, having every reason to believe
that the offence, whatever it might be, did not call for so disgraceful a
chastisement, we could not help being both sorry and much provoked at it,
as the terms on which we had lived with him, and the interest we were known
to take in his affairs, made the affront, in some measure, personal to
ourselves; for it has not yet been mentioned, that we had consulted with
the late worthy commander, Major Behm, who was also his friend, by what
means we might be most likely to succeed in doing him some service for the
good order he had kept in the _ostrog_ during our stay, and for his
readiness on all occasions to oblige us. The major advised a letter of
recommendation to the governor-general, which Captain Clerke had
accordingly given him, and which, backed with his own representations, he
had no doubt would get the serjeant advanced a step higher in his
profession.
We did not choose to make any remonstrance on this subject till the arrival
of Captain Shmaleff. Indeed our inability, from the want of language, to
enter into any discussion of the business, made it advisable to come to
this determination. However, when the _Putparouchick_ paid us his next
visit, we could not help testifying our chagrin by receiving him very
coolly.
The 22d being the anniversary of his majesty's coronation, twenty-one guns
were fired, and the handsomest feast our situation would allow of, was
prepared, in honour of the day. As we were sitting down to dinner, the
arrival of Captain Shmaleff was announced. This was a most agreeable
surprise; in the first place, because he arrived so opportunely to partake
of the good fare and festivity of the occasion; and, in the next, because,
in our last accounts of him, we were given to understand, that the effects
of a severe illness had made him unequal to the journey. We were glad to
find this had been merely an excuse; that, in fact, he was ashamed of
coming empty-handed, knowing we must be in great want of tea, sugar, &c.
&c.; and that therefore he had deferred his setting out, in daily
expectation of the sloop from Okotzk; but having no tidings of her, and
dreading lest we should sail, without his having paid us a visit, he was
determined to set out, though with nothing better to present to us than
apologies for the poverty of Bolcheretsk. At the same time he acquainted
us, that our not having received the sixteen head of black cattle we had
desired might be sent down, was owing to the very heavy rains at Verchnei,
which had prevented their setting out. We made the best answer we were able
to so much politeness and generosity; and the next day, on coming on board
the Resolution, he was saluted with eleven guns. Specimens of all our
curiosities were presented to him, and Captain Gore added to them a gold
watch and a fowling-piece.
The next day he was entertained on board the Discovery, and on the 25th he
took leave of us to return to Bolcheretsk. He could not be prevailed upon
to lengthen his visit, having some expectations, as he told us, that the
sub-governor-general, who was at this time making a tour through all the
provinces of the Governor-general of Jakutzk, might arrive in the sloop
that was daily expected from Okotzk. Before his departure, and without any
interference of ours, he reinstated the serjeant in the command of this
place, having determined to take the _Putparouchick_ along with him; at the
same time we understood that he was highly displeased with him on account
of the punishment that had been inflicted on the serjeant, and for which
there did not appear to be the slightest foundation.
Captain Shmaleff's great readiness to give us every possible proof of his
desire to oblige us, encouraged us to ask a small favour for another of our
Kamtschadale friends. It was to requite an old soldier, whose house had
been at all times open to the inferior officers, and who had done both them
and all the crew a thousand good offices. The captain most obligingly
complied with our request, and dubbed him (which was all he wished for) a
corporal upon the spot, and ordered him to thank the English officers for
his great promotion. It may not here be improper to observe, that in the
Russian army the inferior class of officers enjoy a degree of pre-eminence
above the private men, with which we, in our service, are in a great
measure unacquainted. It was no small astonishment to us, to see a serjeant
keep up all the state, and exact all the respect from all beneath him
belonging to a field-officer. It may be farther remarked, that there are
many more gradations of rank amongst them than are to be met with in other
countries. Between a serjeant and a private man, there are not less than
four intermediate steps; and I have no doubt, but that the advantages
arising from this system are found to be very considerable. The salutary
effects of little subordinate ranks in our sea-service cannot be
questioned. It gives rise to great emulation, and the superior officers are
enabled to bestow, on almost every possible degree of merit, a reward
proportioned to it.
Having been incidentally led into this subject, I shall beg leave to add
but one observation more, namely, that the discipline of the Russian army,
though at this distance from the seat of government, is of the strictest
and severest kind, from which even the commissioned officers are not
exempt. The punishment of the latter for small offences is imprisonment,
and a bread and water diet. An ensign, a good friend of ours at this place,
told us, that, for having been concerned in a drunken riot, he was confined
in the black hole for three months, and fed upon bread and water; which, he
said, so shattered his nerves, that he had never since had spirits for a
common convivial meeting.
I accompanied Captain Shmaleff to the entrance of Awatska River; and having
bid him farewell, took this opportunity of paying a visit to the priest of
Paratounca. On Sunday, the 26th, I attended him to church. The congregation
consisted of his own family, three Kamtschadale men, and three boys, who
assisted in singing part of the service; the whole of which was performed
in a very solemn and edifying manner. The church is of wood, and by far the
best building either in this town or that of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. It
is ornamented with many paintings, particularly with two pictures of Saint
Peter and Saint Paul, presented by Beering; and which, in the real richness
of their drapery, would carry off the prize from the first of our European
performances; for all the principal parts of it are made of thick plates of
solid silver, fastened to the canvas, and fashioned into the various
foldings of the robes with which the figures were clothed.
The next day, I set on foot another hunting party, and put myself under the
direction of the clerk of the parish, who was a celebrated bear-hunter. We
arrived by sun-set, at the side of one of the larger lakes. The next step
was to conceal ourselves as much as possible; and this we were able to do
effectually, among some long grass and brushwood, that grew close to the
water's edge. We had not lain long in ambush, before we had the pleasure to
hear the growlings of bears in different parts round about us; and our
expectations were soon gratified, by the sight of one of them in the water,
which seemed to be swimming directly to the place where we lay hid. The
moon, at this time, gave a considerable light; and when the animal had
advanced about fifteen yards, three of us fired at it, pretty nearly at the
same time. The beast immediately turned short on one side, and set up a
noise, which could not properly be called roaring, nor growling, nor
yelling, but was a mixture of all three, and horrible beyond description.
We plainly saw that it was severely wounded, and that with difficulty it
gained the bank, and retreated to some thick bushes at a little distance.
It still continued to make the same loud and terrible noise; and though the
Kamtschadales were persuaded it was mortally wounded, and could get no
farther, yet they thought it most advisable not to rouse it again for the
present. It was at this time past nine o'clock; and the night becoming
overcast, and threatening a change of weather, we thought it most prudent
to return home, and defer the gratification of our curiosity till morning,
when we returned to the spot, and found the bear dead, in the place to
which it had been watched. It proved to be a female, and beyond the common
size.
As the account of our first hunting-party will be apt to give the reader a
wrong idea of the method in which this sport is usually conducted, it may
not be amiss to add a few more words on the subject; and which I am the
better able to do since this last expedition.
When the natives come to the ground frequented by the bears, which they
contrive to reach about sun-set, the first step is to look for their
tracks; to examine which are the freshest, and the best situated with a
view to concealment; and taking aim at the beast, either as he is passing
by, or advancing in front, or going from them. These tracks are found in
the greatest numbers, leading from the woods down to the lakes, and among
the long sedgy grass and brakes by the edge of the water. The place of
ambuscade being determined upon, the hunters next fix in the ground the
crutches, upon which their firelocks are made to rest, pointing them in the
direction they mean to make their shot. This done, they kneel, or lie down,
as the circumstances of the cover require; and, with their bear-spears by
their side, wait for their game. These precautions, which are chiefly taken
in order to make sure of their mark, are, on several accounts, highly
expedient. For, in the first place, ammunition is so dear at Kamtschatka,
that the price of a bear will not purchase more of it than is sufficient to
load a musquet four or five times; and, what, is more material, if the bear
be not rendered incapable of pursuit by the first shot, the consequences
are often fatal. He immediately makes toward the place from whence the
noise and smoke issue, and attacks his adversaries with great fury. It is
impossible for them to reload, as the animal is seldom at more than twelve
or fifteen yards distance when he is fired at; so that if he does not fall,
they immediately put themselves in a posture to receive him upon their
spears; and their safety greatly depends on their giving him a mortal stab,
as he first comes upon them. If he parries the thrust, (which, by the
extraordinary strength and agility of their paws, they are often enabled to
do,) and thereby breaks in upon his adversaries, the conflict becomes very
unequal, and it is well if the life of one of the party alone suffice to
pay the forfeit.[38]
There are two seasons of the year when this diversion, or occupation, as it
may be rather called, is more particularly dangerous; in the spring, when
the bears first come forth, after having subsisted, as is universally
asserted here, on sucking their paws through the winter; and especially if
the frost happen to be severe, and the ice not to be broken up in the lake
at that time, by which means they are deprived of their ordinary and
expected food. Under these circumstances, they soon become exceedingly
famished, and fierce and savage in proportion. They will pursue the natives
by the scent; and as they now prowl about out of their usual tracks,
frequently come upon them unawares; and when this happens, as the
Kamtschadales have not the smallest notion of shooting flying, nor even at
an animal running, or in any way except with their piece on a rest, the
bear-hunters often fall a sacrifice to their hunger. The other season in
which it is dangerous to come in their way, is at the time of their
copulation, which is generally about this time of the year.
An extraordinary instance of natural affection in these animals has been
already mentioned. The chace affords a variety of a similar nature, and not
less affecting; many of which were related to me. The Kamtschadales derive
great advantage in hunting from this circumstance. They, never venture to
fire upon a young bear, when the mother is near; for if the cub drop, she
becomes enraged to a degree little short of madness; and if she get sight
of the enemy, will only quit her revenge with her life. On the contrary, if
the dam be shot, the cubs will not leave her side, even after she has been
dead a long time, but continue about her, shewing, by a variety of
affecting actions and gestures, marks of the deepest affliction, and thus
become any easy prey to the hunters.
Nor is the sagacity of the bears, if the Kamtschadales are to be credited,
less extraordinary, or less worthy to be remarked, than their natural
affection. Of this they have a thousand stories to relate. I shall content
myself with mentioning one instance, which the natives speak of as a well-
known fact, and that is, the stratagem they have recourse to in order to
catch the bareins, which are considerably too swift of foot for them. These
animals keep together in large herds; they frequent mostly the low grounds,
and love to browse at the feet of rocks and precipices. The bear hunts them
by scent, till he come in sight, when he advances warily, keeping above
them, and concealing himself amongst the rocks, as he makes his approaches,
till he gets immediately over them, and nigh enough for his purpose. He
then begins to push down with his paws pieces of the rock amongst the herd
below. This manoeuvre is not followed by any attempt to pursue, until he
find he has maimed one of the flock, upon which a course immediately
ensues, that proves successful, or otherwise, according to the hurt the
barein has received.[39]
I cannot conclude this digression, without observing, that the
Kamtschadales very thankfully acknowledge their obligations to the bears
for what little advancement they have hitherto made either in the sciences
or polite arts. They confess that they owe to them all their skill both to
physic and surgery; that, by remarking with what herbs these animals rub
the wounds they have received, and what they have recourse to when sick and
languid, they have become acquainted with most of the simples in use among
them, either in the way of internal medicine, or external application. But,
what will appear somewhat more singular, is, they acknowledge the bears
likewise for their dancing-masters. Indeed, the evidence of one's senses
puts this out of dispute; for the bear-dance of the Kamtschadales is an
exact counterpart of every attitude and gesture peculiar to this animal,
through its various functions; and this is the foundation and groundwork of
all their other dances, and what they value themselves most upon.
I returned to the ships on the 28th, very well pleased with my excursion,
as it had afforded me an opportunity of seeing a little more of the
country, and of observing the manners and behaviour of the Kamtschadales,
when freed from that constraint which they evidently lie under in the
company of the Russians.
No occurrence worth mentioning took place till the 30th, when Captain Gore
went to Paratounca, to put up in the church there an escutcheon, prepared
by Mr Webber, with an inscription upon it, setting forth Captain Clerke's
age and rank, and the object of the expedition in which he was engaged at
the time of his decease. We also affixed to the tree under which he was
buried, a board, with an inscription upon it to the same effect.[40]
Before his departure, Captain Gore left orders with me to get the ships out
of the harbour into the bay, to be in readiness to sail. We were prevented
from doing this by a violent gale of wind, which lasted the whole day of
the 1st of October. However, on the 2d, both ships warped out of the
harbour, clear of the narrow passage, and came to anchor in seven fathoms,
a quarter of a mile from the _ostrog_.
The day before we went out of the harbour the cattle arrived from Verchnei;
and, that the men might receive the full benefit of this capital and much-
longed-for supply, by consuming it fresh, Captain Gore came to a
determination of staying five or six days longer. Nor was this time idly
employed. The boats, pumps, sails, and rigging of both ships, thereby
received an additional repair. And Captain Gore sparing me some molasses,
and the use of the Resolution's copper, I was enabled to brew a fortnight's
beer for the crew, and to make a farther provision of ten puncheons of
strong spruce essence. The present supply was the more acceptable, as our
last cask of spirits, except a small quantity left in reserve for cases of
necessity, was now serving out.
The 3d was the name-day of the Empress, and we could want no inducement to
shew it every possible respect. Accordingly, Captain Gore invited the
priest of Paratounca, Ivaskin, and the serjeant, to dinner; and an
entertainment was also provided for the inferior officers of the garrison;
for the two _Toions_ of Paratounca and Saint Peter and Saint Paul, and for
the other better sort of Kamtschadale inhabitants. The rest of the natives,
of every description, were invited to partake with the ships' companies,
who had a pound of good fat beef served out to each man; and what remained
of our spirits was made into grog, and divided amongst them. A salute of
twenty-one guns was fired at the usual hour; and the whole was conducted
(considering the part of her dominion it was in) in a manner not unworthy
so renowned and magnificent an empress.
On the 5th, we received from Bolcheretsk a fresh supply of tea, sugar, and
tobacco. This present had met Captain Shmaleff on his return, and was
accompanied by a letter from him, in which he informed us, that the sloop
from Okotzk had arrived during his absence; and that Madame Shmaleff, who
was entirely in our interests, had lost no time in dispatching a courier
with the few presents, of which our acceptance was requested.
The appearance of foul weather on the 6th and 7th, prevented our unmooring;
but on the morning of the 8th, we sailed out toward the mouth of the bay,
and hoisted in all the boats, when the wind, veering to the southward,
stopped our farther progress, and obliged us to drop anchor in ten fathoms;
the _ostrog_ bearing due north, half a league distant.
The weather being foggy, and the wind from the same quarter during the
forenoon of the 9th, we continued in our station. At four in the afternoon
we again unmoored; but whilst we were with great difficulty weighing our
last anchor, I was told that the drummer of the marines had left the boat
which had just returned from the village, and that he was last seen with a
Kamtschadale woman, to whom his messmates knew he had been much attached,
and who had often been observed persuading him to stay behind. Though this
man had been long useless to us, from a swelling in his knee, which
rendered him lame, yet this made me the more unwilling he should be left
behind, to become a miserable burden both to the Russians and himself. I
therefore got the serjeant to send parties of soldiers, in different
directions, in search of him, whilst some of our sailors went to a well-
known haunt of his in the neighbourhood, where they found him with his
woman. On the return of this party, with our deserter, we weighed, and
followed the Resolution out of the bay.
Having at length taken our leave of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, I shall
conclude this section with a particular description of Awatska Bay, and the
coast adjoining; not only because (its three inlets included) it
constitutes, perhaps, the most extensive and safest harbour that has yet
been discovered, but because it is the only port in this part of the world
capable of admitting ships of any considerable burden. The term Bay,
indeed, is perhaps not applicable, properly speaking, to a place so well
sheltered as Awatska; but, then, it must be observed, that, from the loose
undistinguishing manner in which navigators have denominated certain
situations of sea and land, with respect to each other, bays, roads,
sounds, harbours, &c. we have no defined and determinate ideas affixed to
these words, sufficient to warrant us in changing a popular name for one
that may appear more proper.
The entrance into this bay is in 52° 51' north latitude, and 158° 48' east
longitude, and lies in the bight of another exterior bay, formed by
Cheepoonskoi Noss to the N., and Cape Gavareea to the S. The former of
these head lands bears from the latter N.E. by N. 3/4 E., and is distant
thirty-two leagues. The coast from Cape Gavareea to the entrance of Awatska
Bay, takes a direction nearly N., and is eleven leagues in extent. It
consists of a chain of high ragged cliffs, with detached rocks frequently
lying off them. This coast, at a distance, presents in many parts an
appearance of bays or inlets, but, on a nearer approach, the head-lands
were found connected by low ground.
Cheepoonskoi Noss bears, from the entrance of the bay, E.N.E. 1/4 E, and is
twenty-five leagues distant. On this side the shore is low and flat, with
hills rising behind to a considerable height. In the latitude of Cape
Gavareea there is an error of twenty-one miles in the Russian charts, its
true latitude being 52° 21'.
This striking difference of the land on each side Awatska Bay, with their
different bearings, are the best guides to steer for it in coming from the
southward; and, in approaching it from the northward, Cheepoonskoi Noss
will make itself very conspicuous; for it is a high projecting head-land,
with a considerable extent of level ground lower than the Noss, uniting it
to the continent. It presents the same appearance, whether viewed from the
north or south, and will warn the mariner not to be deceived in imagining
Awatska Bay to lie in the bight which the coast forms to the northward of
this Noss, and which might be the case, from the striking resemblance there
is between a conical hill within this bight or bay, and one to the south of
Awatska Bay.
I have been thus particular in giving a minute description of this coast,
from our own experience of the want of it. For had we been furnished with a
tolerable account of the form of the coast on each side of Awatska Bay, we
should, on our first arrival upon it, have got safely within the bay two
days before we did, and thereby have avoided part of the stormy weather
which came on when we were plying off the mouth of the harbour. Besides,
from the prevalence of fogs in these seas, it must frequently happen, that
an observation for ascertaining the latitude cannot be got; to which we may
add, that the deceptive appearances land makes when covered with snow, and
when viewed through an hazy atmosphere, both which circumstances prevail
here during the greatest part of the year, render the knowledge of a
variety of discriminating objects the more necessary.
Should, however, the weather be clear enough to admit a view of the
mountains on the coast in its neighbourhood, these will serve to point out
the situation of Awatska Bay, with a great deal of precision. For to the
south of it are two high mountains; that which is nearest to the bay, is
shaped like a sugar-loaf; the other, which is farther inland, does not
appear so high, and is flat at the top. To the north of the bay, are three
very conspicuous mountains; the westernmost is, to appearance, the highest;
the next is the _volcano_ mountain, which may be known from the smoke that
issues from its top, and likewise from some high table-hills connected with
it, and stretching to the northward; these two are somewhat peaked. The
third, and the most northerly, might perhaps be more properly called a
cluster of mountains, as it presents to the sight several flat tops.
When the navigator has got within the capes, and into the outward bay, a
perpendicular head-land, with a lighthouse erected upon it, will point out
the entrance of the bay of Awatska to the northward. To the eastward of
this head-land lie many sunken rocks, stretching into the sea, to the
distance of two or three miles; and which will shew themselves, if there be
but a moderate sea or swell. Four miles to the south of the entrance lies a
small round island, very distinguishable from being principally composed of
high pointed rocks, with one of them strikingly remarkable, as being much
larger, more peaked and perpendicular than the rest.
It is no way necessary to be equally particular in the description of the
bay itself, as of its approaches and environs; since no words can give the
mariner a perfect idea of it. The entrance is at first near three miles
wide, and in the narrowest part one mile and a half, and four miles long,
in a N.N.W. direction. Within the mouth is a noble bason of twenty-five
miles circuit, with the capacious harbours of Tareinska to the W., of
Rakoweena to the E., and the small one of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, where
we lay, to the N.
Tareinska harbour is about three miles in breadth, and twelve in length; it
stretches to the E.S.E., and is separated from the sea, at the bottom, by a
narrow neck of land. The road into this harbour is perfectly free from
rocks or shoals. We had never less than seven fathoms water, as far as our
survey extended; for we were not able to get to the bottom of the harbour
on account of the ice.
The harbour of Rakoweena would deserve the preference over the other two,
if its entrance were not impeded by a shoal lying in the middle of the
channel; which, in general, will make it necessary to warp in, unless there
be a leading wind. It is from one mile to half a mile in width, and three
miles long, running at first in a S.E., and afterward in an easterly
direction. Its depth is from thirteen to three fathoms.
Saint Peter and Saint Paul's is one of the most convenient little harbours
I ever saw. It will hold conveniently half a dozen ships, moored head and
stern; and is fit for giving them any kind of repairs. The south side is
formed by a low sandy neck, exceedingly narrow, on which the _ostrog_ is
built; and whose point may almost be touched by ships going in, having
three fathoms water close in with it. In the mid channel, which is no more
than two hundred and seventy-eight feet across, there are six fathoms and a
half; the deepest water within is seven fathoms; and in every part over a
muddy bottom. We found some inconvenience from the toughness of the ground,
which constantly broke the messenger, and gave us a great deal of trouble
in getting up the anchors. There is a watering-place at the head of the
harbour.
The plan we drew points out the shoal to be avoided, lying off the eastern
harbour, as well as the spit within the entrance, stretching from the S.W.
shore, and over which there are only three fathoms water. In order to steer
clear of the latter, a small island, or perhaps it may rather be called a
large detached rock, lying on the west shore of the entrance, is to be shut
in with the land to the south of it; and to steer clear of the former, the
Three Needle Rocks, which lie on the east shore of the entrance near the
light-house head, are to be kept open with the head-lands (or bluff-heads)
that rise to the northward of the first small bay, or bending, observable
on the east side of the entrance. When arrived to the north of the north
head-land of the eastern harbour, the shoal is past.
In sailing into the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, and approaching
the village, it is necessary to keep in close to the eastern shore, in
order to avoid a spit which runs from the head-land to the S.W. of the
town.[41]
Before I proceed to give a table of the result of our astronomical
observations at this place, it may be proper to acquaint the reader, that
the time-keeper we had on board the Resolution, which was an exact copy of
that invented by Mr Harrison, and executed by Mr Kendal, stopped on the
27th of April, a few days before we first came into Awatska Bay. It had
been always kept with the most scrupulous care during the voyage, having
never been trusted for a moment into any other hands than those of Captain
Cook and mine. No accident could therefore have happened to it, to which we
could attribute its stopping; nor could it have arisen from the effects of
intense cold, as the thermometer was very little below the freezing point.
As soon as the discovery was made, I consulted with Captain Clerke what
course it was best to pursue; whether to let it remain as it was, entirely
useless to us, for the purpose of satisfying the curious at home, where it
was sure of being examined by proper judges, or suffer it to be inspected
by a seaman on board, who had served a regular apprenticeship to a
watchmaker in London, and appeared sufficiently knowing in the business,
from his success in cleaning and repairing several watches since we had
been out. The advantages we had derived from its accuracy, made us
extremely unwilling to be deprived of its use during the remaining part of
the voyage; and that object appeared to us to be of much greater importance
than the small degree of probability, which we understood was all that
could be expected, of obtaining any material knowledge respecting its
mechanism, by deferring the inspection of it. At the same time, it should
be remembered, that the watch had already a sufficient trial, both in the
former voyage and during the three years we had now had it on board to
ascertain its utility. On these considerations, we took the opportunity of
the first clear day, after our arrival in Awatska Bay, of opening the
watch, which was done in the captain's cabin, and in our presence. The
watchmaker found no part of the work broken; but not being able to set it
a-going, he proceeded to take off the cock and balance, and cleaned both
the pivot-holes, which he found very foul, and the rest of the work rather
dirty; he also took off the dial-plate; and, between two teeth of the wheel
that carries the second-hand, found a piece of dirt, which he imagined to
be the principal cause of its stopping. Having afterward put the work
together, and oiled it as sparingly as possible, the watch appeared to go
free and well.
Having received orders the next day to go to Bolcheretsk, the time-keeper
was left in the care of Mr Bayley, to compare it with his watch and clock,
in order to get its rate. On my return, I was told it had gone for some
days with tolerable regularity, losing only from fifteen to seventeen
seconds a-day, when it stopped a second time. It was again opened, and the
cause of its stopping appeared to be owing to the man having put some part
of the work badly together when he first opened it. Being again adjusted,
it was found to gain above a minute a-day; and, in the attempt to alter the
regulator and balance-spring, he broke the latter. He afterward made a new
spring; but the watch now went so irregularly, that we made no farther use
of it. The poor fellow was not less chagrined than we were at our bad
success; which, however, I am convinced, was more owing to the miserable
tools he was obliged to work with, and the stiffness his hands had
contracted from his ordinary occupation, than to his want of skill.
For the satisfaction of those who may wish to have a general view of its
rate of going, I have added the following table.
The first and second columns contain the dates when, and the names of the
places where its rate was observed. The third column contains the daily
error of its rate, so found from mean time. The fourth column has the
longitude of each place, according to the Greenwich rate; that is,
calculated on a supposition that the time-keeper had not varied its rate
from the time it left Greenwich. But as we had frequent opportunities of
ascertaining the variation of its daily error, or finding its new rate, the
fifth column has the longitude according to its last rate, calculated from
the true longitude of the place last departed from. The sixth is the true
longitude of the place deduced from astronomical observations made by
ourselves, and compared with those made by others, whenever such could be
obtained. The seventh column shews the difference between the fourth column
and the sixth in space; and the eighth the same difference in time. The
ninth shews the number of months and days in which the error, thus
determined, had been accumulating. The difference between the fifth and
sixth columns is found in the tenth, and shews the error of the time-
keeper, according to its rate last found, in space; and the eleventh the
same error in time. The twelfth contains the time elapsed in sailing from
the place where the rate was last taken, to the place whose longitude is
last determined. The thirteenth and fourteenth contain the state of the air
at the time of each observation.
As persons, unaccustomed to calculations of this sort, may find some
difficulty in comprehending the nature of the table, the two following
instances will more clearly explain it.
Thus, on the 24th October, 1776, (first column,) at the Cape of Good Hope
(second column,) we found the daily error, in the rate of its going, to be
2",26 (third column.) The longitude of that place, calculated on a
supposition that the rate of the time-keeper had continued the same from
the time of our leaving Greenwich, that is, had a regular daily error of
1",21, is found to be 18° 26' 30" east (fourth column.) And as its rate at
Greenwich is, in this instance, its latest rate, the longitude thus found
is the same (fifth column.) The true longitude of the place is 18° 23' 15"
(sixth column.) From whence it appears, that in our run from Greenwich to
the Cape, the watch would have led us into an error only of 3' 15" (seventh
column,) or three miles one quarter; or had varied 13" of time (eighth
column,) in four months twenty-three days (ninth column,) the period
between our leaving Greenwich and our arrival at the Cape. As the Greenwich
is the latest error, the tenth, eleventh, and twelfth columns, will be the
same with the seventh and ninth.
But, on the 23d of February, 1777, (first column,) at Queen Charlotte's
Sound, New Zealand, (second column,) the daily error of its rate was found
to be 2",91, (third column.) The longitude of this place, according to the
Greenwich rate, is 175° 25', (fourth column.) But having found at the Cape,
that it had altered its rate from a daily error of 1",21, to 2",26, the
longitude corrected by this new rate is found to be 174° 44' 23", (fifth
column.) The true longitude of the place being 174° 23' 31", (sixth
column;) it appears that, in our run from Greenwich to New Zealand, the
error would have been only 1° 1' 29", (seventh column,) or sixty-one miles
and a half, even if we had not had an opportunity of correcting its daily
error; or, in other words, that the watch had varied 4' 5",3, (eighth
column,) in nine months four days, (ninth column.) But the longitude, as
given by its new rate, leaves an error of only 30' 54", (tenth column,)
near thirty-one miles, or, in time, 2' 3",6, (eleventh column,) which has
been accumulating during our run from the Cape to New Zealand, or in four
months nine days, (twelfth column.) The thirteenth and fourteenth columns
require no explanation.
TABLE of the Rate and Error of Mr Kendall's Watch on Board the Resolution.
I. | II. | III. | IV. | V. | VI. |
-------|---------------|--------|-------------------------------|
| | | | | |
| |Error of|Longitude |Longitude|True |
TIME. | PLACE. | Daily |by Green- | by |Longitude.|
| | Rate. |wich Rate.|New Rate.| |
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
-------|---------------|--------|----------|---------|----------|
| | " | ° ' " | ° ' " | ° ' " |
1776. | |--------|----------|---------|----------|
June 11|Greenwich |-1,21 | 0 0 0E | 0 0 0E| 0 0 0E |
Oct. 24|Cape of Good |-2,26 | 18 26 30 | 18 26 30| 18 23 15 |
| Hope | | | | |
1777. | | | | | |
Feb. 22|Queen Char- | | | | |
| lotte's Sound,|-2,91 |175 25 0 |174 54 25|174 23 31 |
| New Zealand | | | | |
May 7|Anamooka |+0,52 |186 13 26 |186 13 15|185 11 18 |
June 7|Anamooka |-0,54 |186 8 28 |186 12 43|185 11 18 |
July 1|Tongataboo |-1,78 |185 48 50 |184 53 0|184 55 18 |
Sept. 1|Otaheite |-1,54 |211 41 26 |210 39 8|210 22 28 |
Oct. 17|Huaheine |-2,30 |210 14 52 |208 50 24|208 52 24 |
Nov. 7|Ulietea |-1,52 |209 42 54 |208 25 22|208 25 22 |
1778. | | | | | |
Apr. 16|Nootka |-7,0 |235 32 45 |233 56 0|233 17 8 |
Oct. 14|Samganoodha |-8,8 |197 44 15 |193 12 35|193 31 20 |
1779. | | | | | |
Feb. 2|Owhyhee |-9,6 |214 7 35 |203 37 22|204 0 0 |
May 1|Saint Peter and| T.K. | | | |
| Saint Paul, | stopt. |173 86 0 |159 20 0|158 43 16 |
| Kamtschatka | | | | |
-----------------------------------------------------------------
| VII. | VIII. | IX. | X. | XI. | XII. |XIII. | XIV.|
|-----------------------------------------------|------|---------|-------|
|Accumulated Error by| |Error by New Rate. | |Thermo- | B |
| Greenwich Rate. |Length| |Length| meter. | a |
|--------------------| of |-------------------| of |---------| r |
| | | Time.| | | Time.| | o |
| In | In | | In | In | |Gr. Least| m |
| Space. | Time. | | Space. | Time. | | Height. | e |
|---------|----------|------|---------|---------|------|---------| t |
| ° ' "|H. ' " |Mo Da | ° ' "| H ' " | Mo Da| | | er. |
|---------|----------|------|---------|---------|------|----|----|-------|
| | | | | | | | | |
|+ 0 3 15|0 0 13,0 | 4 23 |+ 0 3 15|0 0 13,0| 4 23| 84| 63| 30, 0|
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| 1 1 29|0 4 5,9 | 9 4 |+ 0 30 54|0 2 3,6| 4 9| 73| 53| 30, 0|
| | | | | | | | | |
| 1 2 8|0 4 8,5 |11 22 |+ 1 1 57|0 4 7,8| 2 18| 83| 74| 30, 1|
| 0 57 10|0 3 48,6 |12 25 |+ 1 1 25|0 4 5,6| 1 3| 79| 73| 30,15|
| 0 53 32|0 3 34,1 |13 21 |- 0 2 18|0 0 9,2| 0 24| 85| 69| 30,15|
| 1 18 58|0 5 15,8 |15 27 |+ 0 16 40|0 1 6,6| 2 6| 90| 70| 30, 1|
| 1 22 28|0 5 29,8 |17 17 |- 0 2 0|0 0 8,0| 1 18| 90| 72| 29, 9|
| 1 17 32|0 5 10,1 |18 10 | 0 0 0|0 0 0,0| 0 21| 92| 70| 29, 7|
| | | | | | | | | |
| 2 15 27|0 9 1,8 |24 2 |+ 0 28 42|0 2 34,8| 5 20| 65| 41| 30, 0|
| 4 12 55|0 16 51,6 |30 15 |- 0 18 45|0 1 15,0| 6 13| 57| 36| 20,15|
| | | | | | | | | |
| 10 7 35|0 40 30,3 |34 14 |- 0 22 38|0 1 30,5| 3 27| 88| 70| 29, 8|
| | | | | | | | | |
| 14 52 44|0 59 30,9 |37 18 |- 0 36 44|0 2 16,9| 3 4| | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From this view of the time-keeper it appears, that for near two years it
altered its rate very inconsiderably, and therefore that its error,
according to the Greenwich rate, if we had had no opportunities of
correcting it, amounted only to 2-1/4°. That afterward, at King George's
Sound, or Nootka, it was found to have varied exceedingly; of course, the
longitude, by its Greenwich rate, was becoming considerably erroneous.
About this time, it should be remarked, the thermometer was varying from
65° to 41°. The greatest alteration we ever observed in the watch was,
during the three weeks we were cruising to the N.; in which interval, it
gave the longitude of the East Cape with a difference of twenty-eight
miles, I have marked the longitude of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, as given
by the time-keeper, notwithstanding it stopped a few days before we arrived
there; this I was enabled to do, from comparing the longitude it gave the
day before it stopped, with that given by Mr Bayley's watch, and allowing
for the error of the latter.
The use of so accurate a measure of time is sufficiently evident, from its
furnishing in itself the means of approximating to the longitude at sea, as
may be seen in the above table. But, besides this, we were enabled, by the
same means, to give a degree of accuracy to the lunar observations, which
they cannot otherwise pretend to; and, at the same time, by reducing a
number of those observations to one time, obtain results approaching still
nearer to the truth. In surveying coasts, and ascertaining the true
position of capes and head-lands, it reaches the utmost degree of practical
exactness. On the other hand, it is to be observed, that lunar
observations, in their turn, are absolutely necessary, in order to reap the
greatest possible advantages from the time-keeper; since, by ascertaining
the true longitude of places, they discover the error of its rate. The
original observations that were made in the course of this voyage, have
been published by order of the Board of Longitude, and to those I must
refer the reader, for his further information on this subject.
N.B. The observatories were placed on the west side of the village of Saint
Peter and Saint Paul.
Latitude deduced from meridian zenith
distances of the sun, and of five stars
to the S., and five to the N. of the
zenith 53° 0' 38" N.
Longitude deduced from one hundred
and forty-six sets of lunar observations 158 43 16 E.
Longitudy by time-keeper, according to
its Greenwich rate 173 36 0
Longitude by time-keeper, according to
its rate found at Owhyhee 159 20 0
Variation of the compass, by azimuths
taken with three compasses, made by
Knight, Gregory, and Martin 6 18 40 E.
Dip of the North Pole of the magnetic
needle, being a mean of the observations
taken in June and September 63 5 0
It was high water, on the full and change of the moon, at thirty-six
minutes past four, and the greatest rise was five feet eight inches. The
tides were very regular every twelve hours. On the coast, near the bay, the
flood came from the S., and the time of high water was near two hours
sooner than in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.
[35] See all that is known of this voyage, and a chart of discoveries, in
Mr Coxe's Account of Russian-Discoveries between Asia and America. We
were not able to learn from the Russians in Kamtschatka, a more
perfect account of Synd than we now find is given by Mr Coxe; and yet
they seemed disposed to communicate all that they really knew. Major
Behm could only inform us, in general, that the expedition had
miscarried as to its object, and that the commander had fallen under
much blame. It appeared evidently that he had been on the coast of
America, to the southward of Cape Prince of Wales, between the
latitudes 64° and 65° and it is most probable that his having got too
far to the northward to meet with sea-otters, which the Russians, in
all their attempts at discoveries, seem to have principally, in view,
and his returning without having made any that promised commercial
advantages, was the cause of his disgrace, and of the great contempt
with which the Russians always spoke of this officer's voyage.
The cluster of islands placed in Synd's chart, between the latitudes
of 61° and 65°, is undoubtedly the same with the island called by
Beering St Laurence's, and those we named Clerke's, Anderson's, and
King's Islands; but their proportionate size, and relative situation,
are exceedingly erroneous.
[36] By some strange anomaly in human nature, it would seem as if, in many
cases, the apprehension of danger is in the inverse proportion of the
amount of evil to be dreaded, or of the probability of its happening.
Thus, the good people at Saint Peter and Saint Paul, who have but very
little more reason to expect the intrusion of enemies, than if they
dwelt in the regions of the North Pole, exhibit a remarkable degree of
unnecessary suspicion on the occurrence of the most harmless, nay the
most beneficial events. In addition to what is recorded in this
voyage, we may mention an evidence of it in the case of Captain
Krusenstern's last arrival among them, which happened sooner than they
had looked for, notwithstanding his having previously intimated it. On
the appearance of his vessel, the people immediately concluded it was
an enemy, and some families began to fly with their effects to the
neighbouring mountains. To them it seemed more natural, that some
hostile power should send a vessel half round the globe in order to
conquer a miserable spot, whose only riches was a few dried fish, and
where a crew could scarcely subsist for two months, than that the ship
in sight should belong to a friend whose arrival they had been
instructed to expect. Nor were their fears quieted, till the solemn
and strongly urged opinion of the soldier on duty, who, from his
having been a companion of Captain Billing's, had the reputation of
much knowledge in such matters, induced them to believe, that the form
and rigging of the ship could be no other than those of their old
acquaintance the Nadeshda!--E.
[37] The singular personage here spoken of, was living near Saint Peter and
Saint Paul in 1805, when Captain Krusenstern arrived there. He was at
that time eighty-six years old, and had but lately obtained his
liberty from the present emperor, who, besides other bounty, granted
him a sum of money to cover his travelling expenses, if he chose to
return to St Petersburg. The old man, however, was unable to bring his
mind to undertake the journey, or even to venture the sea with
Krusenstern; and in all probability, therefore, would end his days in
the land of his captivity. We learn from the same authority, that
Iwashkin had been banished in consequence of a report, apparently an
unfounded one, that he had been engaged in a conspiracy against the
Empress Elizabeth; and he is said to have been afterwards refused a
pardon by Catharine, because he had been accused of murdering a man in
the heat of passion. But for this circumstance, according to K., "the
terms in which he is mentioned in Cook's voyage are such, as would not
fail to meet with attention in Russia." These few additional
particulars may add to whatever of interest is felt in Captain Kind's
account of this exile. And even this may be enhanced to the
susceptible mind by the remark, that old and worn out as Iwashkin
appeared to Captain King, he nevertheless survived him at least twenty
years, as the latter died at Nice, in Italy, in 1784.--E.
[38] It may not be ill-timed to mention here, what Captain Krusenstern says
as to the scarcity of gunpowder in Kamtschatka, to which Captain King
alludes in his account of bear-hunting. It is owing to the deficiency
of this article, that the inhabitants are so seldom provided with
certain luxuries of the table, as the wild sheep, or _argalis_, rein-
deer, hares, ducks, and geese, with most or all of which the country
is tolerably well stocked. The conveyance of this most useful material
from the provinces of European Russia, is both difficult and exposed
to different accidents; such as getting wet, or, what is still worse,
taking fire; in consequence of which latter occurrence, it is said,
whole villages have been destroyed. To prevent this mischief, as much
as possible, we are informed, that gunpowder is now forbidden to be
brought for private sale. This prohibition, as is usual in all such
cases, is often evaded, and, by augmenting the price of the article,
of course excites the stronger disposition on the part of the merchant
to introduce it. The Kamtschadale, therefore, purchases powder
secretly, and at a very high price; he uses it sparingly, and that
only for defence against bears; or to kill some animal, whose skin he
knows will repay the cost of getting it. As, in many respects, it is
an article of indispensable necessity, and as therefore the people
must have it in some way or other, Captain Krusenstern recommends,
that, with many other commodities, it should be sent from
Cronstadt.--E.
[39] The reader will probably not dislike to see another instance of the
bear's cunning, in the mode of catching a peculiar sort of fish called
_kachly_, which abounds in Kamtschatka, and of which he is exceedingly
fond. We are told by Krusenstern, that as soon as this animal
perceives the shoals of _kachly_ going up the river, he places himself
in the water, within a short distance of the bank, and in such a
position of his legs, as that the fish, which always goes straight
forward, may have just space enough to pass between them. He then
watches his opportunity, when a good many have entered the snare, to
press his legs together, so as to inclose his prey, with which, at one
spring, he jumps on shore, where he devours them at his leisure. This
practice is much to be commended for the spirit of independence it
indicates; but not so another one, which some authors have charged
against these sagacious animals, viz. dragging the fishermen's nets
out of the water, during their absence, and then robbing them of the
fish they contained. Mr Bingley's Animal Biography, where this piece
of pilfering is mentioned, may be advantageously consulted for several
amusing notices respecting the habits and capabilities of this
creature, which are quite in unison with Captain King's account.--E.
[40] The interest of the following passage, from the account of
Krusenstern's voyage, will form the only apology necessary for the
largeness of the space it occupies. "As it was evident, upon our
arrival, that the many things necessary to be done on board, would
occupy a space of not less than four or five weeks, the officers of
the ship had formed a plan of renewing the monument which had been
erected to Captain Clerke. From Cook's and La Perouse's voyage, it is
well known that Clerke was buried in the town of Saint Peter and St
Saint Paul, under a large tree, to which a board, with an inscription,
was affixed, mentioning his death, his age and rank, and the object of
the expedition, in which he lost his life. We found the escutcheon,
painted by Webber, the draughtsman of the Resolution, and suspended by
Captain King in the church at Paratunka, in the portico of Major
Krupskoy's house, nor did any one appear to know what connection it
had with this painted board; and as there has been no church for many
years either in Paratunka or Saint Peter and Saint Paul, it was very
fortunate that the escutcheon was not entirely lost. La Perouse,
finding the board on the tree rotting very fast, had the inscription
copied on a plate of copper, adding, that it had been restored by him;
and as this inscription is not given in Cook's voyage, and every thing
relative to him and his companion must be interesting to all, I cannot
avoid transcribing it here from La Perouse's copy.
"At The Root Of This Tree Lies The Body Of
Captain Charles Clerke,
Who Succeeded To The Command Of His Britannic
Majesty's Ships, The Resolution And
Discovery, On The Death Of Captain James Cook, Who
Was Unfortunately Killed By The Natives
At An Island In The South Sea
On The 14TH Of February In The Year 1779,
And Died At Sea Of A Lingering Consumption The
22ND August In The Same Year, Aged 38.
* * * * *
"Copié sur l'inscription Angloise par ordre de M^r le C^{te} de la
Perouse chef d'Escadre, en 1787.
"This plate La Perouse caused to be nailed on the wooden monument. We
found it there, although it had more than once been removed. The
monument itself, however, appeared to promise but short duration; for
the tree, which was more than half decayed, could not stand above a
few years longer, and it was become necessary to raise a more durable
one to Cook's companion. We also found the coffin, containing the
remains of De Lisle de la Croyère, as we were digging up the ground, a
few paces from Clerke's tomb, after having long sought for it in vain.
La Perouse had erected a monument to him also; and, upon a copper-
plate, had engraved an inscription, containing a few of the
particulars of his life. Of this there was not the least vestige
remaining, though no longer space than eighteen years had since
elapsed. The _memento_ of these two persons, equally skilled in the
science of navigation, and who had both lost their lives in one of the
most inhospitable quarters of the globe, could now be united in one
monument; and, for this purpose, a durable pedestal of wood was
erected as near as possible to the old tree, in order still to
preserve the locality; and over this a pyramid; on one side of which,
the plate, which La Perouse had engraved, was fastened; and on the
opposite side, a copy of Captain Clerke's escutcheon, made for the
occasion by M. Tilesius. On the other two sides were the following
inscriptions, in Russian: 'In the first voyage round the world,
undertaken by the Russians, under the command of Captain Krusenstern,
the officers of the ship Nadeshda erected this monument to the memory
of the English captain, Clerke, on the 15th September 1805.'
"And on the side facing the south: 'Here rest the ashes of De Lisle de
la Croyère, the astronomer attached to the expedition commanded by
Commodore Behring, in the year 1741.'
"This monument was constructed under the direction of Lieutenant
Ratmanoff; and his anxiety to complete it previous to our departure,
made him overcome every difficulty in the way of such an undertaking
in Kamtschatka. It would have been an injustice in me not to have
supported and contributed by all the means in my power to its
completion; and as I gave them not only workmen, but also such
materials as we had on board the ship, we had the satisfaction of
seeing it entirely completed previous to our departure. A deep ditch
surrounded the whole; and, in order to screen it against any
accidental injury, it was inclosed in a high paling, the door of which
was to be kept constantly locked, and the key to remain in the hands
of the governor of Saint Peter and Saint Paul."
Every heart that is capable of humane emotions will respect this
labour infinitely beyond either the magnitude or the importance of its
effects, and will gladly applaud the virtuous sentiment that prompts
generous minds, in defiance of the narrow and perishable distinction
of name and nation, to reverence the kindred excellence and the common
lot of their fellow creatures.--E.
[41] Every reader will be pleased to learn, that Krusenstern bears ample
testimony to the general accuracy of Captain King's drawings and
descriptions of the bay, &c. This intimation is probably sufficient
for most persons, without any special exemplification of the
coincidences betwixt these two writers.--F.