If the peculiarity of this building, in looking so much smaller than the

truth has been exaggerated, I must however acknowledge that there is

some foundation for it. It is probable that whatever the disposition

might be, the mind would never give credit at first glance to its

unusual dimensions; but great part of the secret lies in a single word,

disproportion. The nave is composed of alternate arches and piers, with

two Corinthian pilasters in each pier. Now a column is made to diminish

upwards; and the circumference at the necking is a little more than

three times the top diameter, or about two and a half times the bottom

diameter. Suppose, for example, a column 7 feet in diameter at the base;

it usually diminishes one-sixth of its diameter, and therefore would be

70 inches at the top, and the circumference 220 inches: now, as there

are always eight leaves, each leaf, including the very small interval

between them, would measure 27½ inches in width: a pilaster of the same

diameter would be 84 inches on each face, at top as well as at bottom,

since it is not usual to diminish them upwards; and as it has always two

leaves on each exposed face, each leaf, with the interval, or measured

from centre to centre, either of leaf or interval, would be 42 inches

wide, instead of 27½; and this disproportionate size of the leaves tends

to diminish by comparison the size of the other parts, and makes a room

ornamented with pilasters, look smaller than one surrounded by columns.

The other architectural details are in general rather too small than too

large. The next source of deception may be found in the panels of

coloured marbles in the pilasters of the second order. The contrast

brings the object apparently nearer, and consequently makes it look

smaller. This is assisted by the overcharged sculpture of these panels,

and its great projection, rather than relief. A third source of error is

in the figures of the spandrils of the principal arches (which I believe

are only of plaster). A number of colossal angels are crawling out of

their triangular holes, and sprawling over the lines of the archivolt

below them, and of the entablature above; they look as if they must fall

out, and it is a great pity they do not. These have no inconsiderable

effect in diminishing the apparent size of the architecture. The fourth

cause of deception is in the too great size of the orders of the altars.

The church has three orders: the large one which supports the vaulting;

a secondary one belonging to the side arches, and the aisles, and also

forming an essential part of the edifice; and a third to the altars,

which is mere furniture. This last cuts the lines of the entablature of

the second order, and thus gains size for itself, but it is at the

expense of the building.

The sculpture all over the church is too large, (except the _pietà_ of

Michael Angelo,) and this may be enumerated among the causes which

diminish the apparent magnitude; for though perfectly aware that they

are of stone, and may be of any size, yet the mind always involuntarily

compares them with the human figure, and measures the building by them.

It is recorded of Bernini, that when he had fixed the chair of St. Peter

at the extremity of the church, he applied to Andrea Sacchi to go with

him, and to give him his opinion of the work. The painter at first would

not go, but being very much pressed by Bernini, without changing his cap

or slippers, got into a coach and accompanied him. No entreaties could

persuade him to advance a step beyond the door of the church. There he

fixed himself, to examine the effect of the work, and after a few

minutes consideration, pronounced the giant figures which support the

seat, too low by a palm. The Italians have proceeded on a principle,

which I have sometimes heard contended for in England, of exaggerating

the details, in order to give them consequence. But in all the fine

arts, nothing has a worse effect, or has spoiled more beauties, than

this desire to give great consequence to the subordinate parts. If these

are inaccessible, and can only be seen from a distance, the minuter

details may be omitted, or rudely marked: all that is required, is to

give the notion that the finishing is there, in order that the part may

not look naked and neglected, or rather to render it impossible to

determine that it is not there. If they can be approached, be content to

mark them so that they can be seen well at a proper distance. If you

execute them with reference to their appearance at a point that is too

far off, they may look well there indeed, but everywhere else they will

appear extravagant and distorted; whereas, if not exaggerated, they

nowhere look ill; and looking well in their proper point of view, the

imagination easily gives them credit for their excellence, when seen

from any other. It is not the business of the artist to expose every

beauty from every part, but to set the imagination in the right road,

and above all, not to lead it to any thing monstrous or extravagant; and

this will infallibly be the consequence of overcharging any part; for

when once the disproportion is observed, it recurs and offends the mind

of the spectator even when surveying the object from that point which

represents it most favourably. Suppose you were to employ an artist to

make a drawing of the interior of St. Peter’s. It will look better with

figures in it. Will you direct the painter to make his figures twice as

large as life, and with extravagant noses and chins? We know that this

exaggeration spoils a painting; but it is equally inimical to

architecture; and yet it is what we frequently see adopted. Besides, the

eye measures the building by the number of parts, as much as by their

size; nor in the case of statues is it of consequence that a continued

range should be presented to us; we make a ready allowance for the

spaces between, measuring them by the statues themselves. But it will be

asked, Are statues never, then, to be larger than life? Yes, to give the

appearance of strength, of dignity, of power, it is necessary to make

them so; but in that case the rule is very easy. Do you wish when the

spectator is near them, that they should appear larger than the human

form? If that is the case, make them so, but not otherwise. Even for the

sake of exhibiting forms and expression, the sculptor may wish to give

his subjects additional size, and the plea is unobjectionable; but

still, without taking distance into the account; whatever may be done to

obviate the indistinctness produced by distance, has the effect of

diminishing the apparent distance of the object, and consequently its

size, and the size of the place it is in: make them all really smaller,

and the effect remains the same. This rule leaves nothing for the

enlargement of the sculpture in proportion to the size of the building,

and some allowance there certainly ought to be. For instance: to take a

very clear example, if any building should ever be erected (a monstrous

edifice) whose frieze is 12 feet high, there can be no doubt that any

figures by which it is ornamented must be nearly of the same height;

they so evidently belong to architecture, that they form no scale by

which to measure the height of the edifice. In niches too, something of

the same sort takes place, though not so absolutely: a marble statue of

the size of life looks generally rather small; I do not know why, but I

apprehend that every body perceives it to be the case; and if surrounded

by the mouldings and ornaments of a colossal architecture, the effect

will be increased. This appearance should be corrected by additional

size, but here I think we should stop. For instance; under the dome

there are four great figures, each about 16 feet high, where the niches

are made too large for the architecture, in order to receive colossal

figures, and the figures are made too large for the niches: had these

been half the height, they would not have struck the spectator as larger

than life; perhaps they might be made somewhat more than this, but not

much; and the expression does not require any increase of size, for they

represent the saints and martyrs of the church, suffering virtue, not

triumphant power; we do not sympathize more readily with a giant, than

with a man of our own stature, but rather the contrary. The figures on

the pediment have a closer connexion with the architecture, than those

in niches, because the statues are there evidently made for the place,

whereas the niches are in some degree made for the statues. I believe,

of all the Greek statues existing, there is not one whose size is not

accounted for on these principles.

If in niches but little liberty be allowed of enlarging the proportions

of the human figure, the license, though still some license must be

permitted, is yet further diminished in monuments; but here all the

monuments are colossal. That a sculptor, even of the first class, should

wish to make his productions of somewhat more than their just

consequence, is perfectly natural, but one would hardly have expected

such an error from the architect sculptors of the sixteenth century.

While I am enumerating the faults of this building, I may as well go on,

and conclude my subject; mentioning the principal of those which have

been attributed to it by others, as well as those which offend my own

judgment. It has been said to be one of the greatest, that the nave has

been lengthened into a Latin cross, instead of a Greek one, as was

intended by Michael Angelo. It is difficult to assign precisely to each

architect his part in the building, but it is certain, that the original

design of Bramante was for a Latin cross. Sangallo and Raphael, who

successively followed Bramante, kept, as we have already seen, to this

general idea, though each proposed some alterations. Peruzzi reduced it

to a Greek cross, and the piers of the dome were carried up, probably to

the height of the nave; one arm at least of the cross was executed, and

perhaps a considerable portion of the walls of the rest of the building

carried up, before Michael Angelo had any thing to do with it. This

great man made some alterations, which I have already explained: under

him the plan was that of a Greek cross, consisting of a large dome in

the centre, and four equal, square recesses, to three of which a

semicircular tribune was added; and the fourth, or that of the entrance,

was consequently shorter than the rest by the radius of the semicircle.

For this, my authority is Milizia; for from Bonanni one would rather

conceive that all the four arms were precisely similar. If this

difference entered into M. Angelo’s design, it was well conceived, for

the first view of a spacious edifice is that which fixes itself on the

mind, and there can be no doubt that the view would be much grander, and

more impressive from the entrance, as thus designed, than from the

bottom of one of the semicircles. The more I consider the subject, the

more I am dissatisfied with the shape of a Latin cross, as usually

managed so as to make a single room. If this form be adopted, it ought

to be divided into distinct parts, the nave forming one, the dome

another, the three other branches, or three tribunes, as they are called

in Italy, three others; these divisions may open into each other, not by

doorways, but by arches, occupying nearly all their width, or they may

be separated merely by ranges of columns; but still the separation ought

to be distinctly marked; for there is necessarily a change of design,

which otherwise confuses the attention. In a Greek cross the whole may

be considered as one room, the four arms being merely so many recesses;

but then they should be kept shallow, so as never to present themselves

but as mere appendages. The old design of St. Peter’s had these recesses

too deep; probably had Michael Angelo had the entire design, he would

have omitted altogether the semicircular tribunes; but he did not like

to destroy what had been executed. With all these considerations present

to my mind, I confess I cannot wish that the nave were not executed; it

is so beautiful in itself, that some degree of want of harmony with the

dome may be forgiven to it.

It is usually said to have been the boast of Michael Angelo that he

would elevate the Pantheon in the air. Whatever honour may attach to

this idea, is due to Bramante, since the cupola designed by him was

certainly in pendentive, while that of Brunelleschi at Florence, bears

perpendicularly on its foundations. Perhaps to put it upon stilts, would

have been a more correct expression, and it is certainly better on the

ground. To be convinced of this, it is only necessary to mount into the

gallery, and observe how much superior it appears in size and beauty,

than when seen from below.

I must mention among the faults, that while the vault of the nave is

very beautifully gilt, the principal order which supports the vault is

entirely without gilding, a transition which is displeasingly abrupt;

and the roof, and the pilasters and entablature, do not seem to belong

to each other. Then the ornaments in and about the arches are gilt, and

the plain surfaces of the spandrils. This is very bad, because it

separates the work into different parts, which no longer appear firmly

knit together into one solid body, but as if you could take out the

arches and leave the main piers and pilasters standing. The side aisles

do not form one continued corridor, but are divided into a series of

little rooms, by columns and piers supporting arches, the latter going

up into the circular pediments, which appear to be supported by the

order: but I will not detain you about these side aisles, because the

whole arrangement is entirely bad: the niches squeezed in between the

pilasters in the principal nave are also to be considered as defects.

In spite of all these faults, the interior is universally admired.

Horace Walpole says that “one must have taste to be sensible of the

beauties of Grecian architecture, one only wants passions to feel the

Gothic. In St. Peter’s one is convinced that it was built by great

princes. In Westminster Abbey one thinks not of the builder; the

religion of the place makes the first impression.” He has here, I am

persuaded, confounded the effect of his own early associations, with

that produced by the architecture; and he is unjust with respect to St.

Peter’s, since his observation would imply that it had no other merit

than mere size and splendour. The pyramids must have been built by great

princes, yet who thinks them beautiful? I must however, according to my

custom, endeavour to trace the source of this pleasing impression, or at

least, to be more correct in my metaphor, point out the little streams

which unite to produce it.

First, the size. Nothing of sublime or beautiful is found in a model of

Mont Blanc, or the Jung Frau, considered in itself. It could interest us

only by calling to mind the forms and appearances of those large masses;

but when we see the objects themselves, the mind must be insensible

indeed, which does not feel the impression. Such a feeling may doubtless

be heightened by various poetical associations; but unless there were a

strong native impression, such associations would never have been

attached to lofty mountains. Great size alone then is capable of

producing admiration; and as our estimate of size is comparative, such a

building as St. Peter’s is to other churches, what Mont Blanc is to

other hills. This effect of size to produce the sublime is probably by

its exciting ideas of power, and in this instance the effect is much

enhanced by the richness and splendour of the decoration. It is true,

that when the parts are considered separately, there are some

deficiencies; there is, for instance, a good deal of stucco, which ought

to be marble, or at least good stone; but nothing of this comes into the

first glance; we see a great deal of really rich and beautiful material,

and give credit for something more, which is not so distinctly seen.

Afterwards, when we examine the whole, we find so much of rich and

beautiful in this respect, that we are willing to overlook what is

wanting. Another source of pleasure lies in the simplicity of design. In

this respect also I must acknowledge that there are some failures; but

upon the whole the design is easily comprehended, and there are not many

unaccountable breaks, nor of much importance. The arrangement of the

vaulting of the nave in simple caissoons, with each a rose in the

centre, and the judicious distribution of the gilding upon it,

contribute very much to this excellence; but do not look along the side

aisles, for you will find nothing of it there. To produce the effect of

magnificence in architecture, three things seem to be necessary,

greatness of dimension, simplicity of design, and richness of

decoration; to satisfy the mind, after examination, three other things

are requisite, otherwise there is danger that the observer may be vexed

that he has been cheated into admiration for the moment, and disgust

instead of pleasure will be the permanent result; correctness of

proportion, graceful drawing, and delicate execution; by graceful

drawing, I mean that the mouldings and ornaments should be beautiful in

themselves, and well combined. Of these six points, St. Peter’s has the

first in a high degree, something of the second, and a great deal of the

third. The three latter it also possesses, though not in a very

remarkable degree; the proportions do not offend, and the drawing and

execution are good.

The most admired piece of sculpture here is the _Pietà_ of Michael

Angelo, the Virgin supporting the body of her dead son, apparently much

older than herself. She is stoutly made, and the weight appears nothing

to her. The countenance is good, not expressive of deep sorrow, but

rather of affection and anxiety, such as a mother might well have, when

looking on her sleeping child, and meditating its future fortunes. Mr.

Scott says, she is ruminating on the past, and considering whether all

that our Saviour had said of himself could be true; an idea which I

think the artist did not intend to suggest. Another celebrated monument

is that of Clement XIII. by Canova. Here are only three figures, the

pope himself in the attitude of prayer, which is excellent; a colossal

Religion, where Canova has attempted the sublime, and failed; and

another colossal figure called the Genius of Rome. It is an angel of

most exquisite beauty, but appearing to lean so painfully against the

edge of the marble, that I never could look at it with pleasure. Can you

tell me why in a monument nothing is to be told of a man but that he

died? One would think that in any distinguished character some of those

circumstances which rendered his life conspicuous, might be introduced

in sculpture, and that which is common to all men, might without any

loss be omitted. Into how many absurdities has this custom of telling

that a man died, and that somebody grieved for it, betrayed the

sculptors! Angels with lumbering stone wings, and bodies wholly unsuited

to them, and without any apparatus for moving them; Deaths of mere

bones, moving without muscles; heathen gods and goddesses to help a

Christian on his journey to heaven, and extravagant and unintelligible

personifications, and allegories still more extravagant and

unintelligible. Another monument which has been much praised is by

Bernini; above are a pope and two allegorical figures, made to be

forgotten. The admired part arises from a door below, which it was

necessary to preserve, and Bernini has surrounded it with marble

drapery, and made Death supporting the curtain, as if to give entrance

to the tomb. The Death wants consequence, and the whole is prettier in

description than in reality.

St. Peter’s as you know is ornamented with mosaics, which have the

advantage of pictures in durability. The damps will not injure them, and

if by chance a candle should fall against them, they do not suffer; but

if you should ask me whether these mosaics are equal to the originals, I

must answer in the negative; and I will add, that the difference is very

considerable, even between the best mosaics, and the first-rate

paintings from which they were copied; in pictures of inferior merit of

course there is less difference, and I have seen the weaker parts even

of a capital painting improved in the copy; for the natural tendency of

every process of the sort, is to reduce all things to a level, bringing

down the finest touches, and raising those which are indifferent. These

pictures cost from ten to twenty thousand crowns each, and it has been

said that for half the money you might have had paintings, either copies

or originals, of equal or superior merit, while the interest of the

remaining sum would have provided an ample fund for renewing them, and

have kept alive the spirit and emulation of artists; but I confess the

mere circumstance of their durability gives me a pleasing emotion. It is

painful to see the most beautiful productions of the fine arts exposed

in situations which are preparing their destruction; and this idea of

duration corresponds with the character of the immense structure which

surrounds you. Added to which, the altar pieces of churches are never in

very good lights for the effect of the painting. In the adoption of such

a mode of decoration, one would imagine that none but the very

first-rate paintings would be chosen; but you will be surprised to learn

that this is by no means the case; several of those at St. Peter’s are

copied from quite second-rate productions.

I descended into the vaults, the pavement of which, in part at least, is

that of the ancient basilica of Constantine; it contains some ancient

sarcophagi of saints, emperors, and popes; and some sculpture, and

mosaics, and ancient columns, the plunder as we are told of the

Septizonium. No woman is permitted to enter here, except on one

particular day in the year, when the men are prohibited.

The excursion to the top is more interesting than that into the vaults;

but contains still less to write about, unless I were to enter into the

particulars of the construction, which has already occupied so many

writers. The masses are so great, and the roof so extensive, that we

seem rather to be in a town founded on a vast rock, than on the top of

an edifice. The building is perfect, without this wooden roof, but as

vaults covered with stucco are seldom entirely impervious to the

weather, it was necessary to erect it. It is slight, and rests entirely

upon the vaulting, so that the whole might be blown away, and no

mischief done to the edifice. On reading over what I have written, I

feel that it is calculated to give a much less favourable impression of

this truly magnificent edifice than it really deserves. I go to it again

and again, and contemplate it, and enjoy it; and now I have finished my

criticisms, perhaps more than at first. I wish I could enable you to

dwell upon its beauties, and feel the same mental satisfaction and

delight; but this seems to be quite beyond my ability.

———Cupidum, pater optime, vires

Deficiunt.

LETTER XXVI.

BASILICAN CHURCHES.

_Rome, March, 1817._

IN following the order of dates, an account of the basilicas and ancient

churches of the lower empire, should have preceded my observations on

St. Peter’s; for although most of them have been very much altered, yet

there are still sufficient remains of the old work to trace the plan and

distribution of the parts, and indeed every thing relating to the solid

masses of the building; and in one or two, more or less of the original

mode of fitting it up. The first of these in size and in reputation, is

the Church of St. Paul without the walls, (_fuori delle mura_) and it

has the advantage of having undergone very little alteration, so that

most of the original construction is not only preserved, but is still

exposed.[45] It was founded by Constantine, A. D. 324, but not completed

till A. D. 395, under the reign of Honorius. About the year 440, it was

restored by Eudoxa, wife of Valentinian III., but one may suppose, that

at so early a period it did not want any important repairs. Having

afterwards been injured by an earthquake, it was again restored in 795,

by St. Leo III. The wall, which at present divides the transept

longitudinally, is thought to be part of this restoration. Under Clement

VIII. (about 1600), a new ceiling (or roof?) was put to the transept,

and in 1725, Benedict XIII. added the portico.

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