During the present visit to the Friendly Islands, large additions were

made to the knowledge which was obtained, in the last voyage, of the

natural history and productions of the country, and the manners and

customs of its inhabitants. Though it does not fall within the plan of

this narrative to enter into a detail of the particulars recorded, I

cannot help taking notice of the explanation which Captain Cook has

given of the thievish disposition of the natives. It is an explanation

which reflects honour upon his sagacity, humanity, and candour and

therefore I shall relate it in his own words: 'The only defect,' says

he, 'sullying their character, that we know of, is a propensity to

thieving; to which we found those of all ages, and both sexes,

addicted, and to an uncommon degree. It should, however, be

considered, that this exceptionable part of their conduct seemed to

exist merely with respect to us; for, in their general intercourse

with one another, I had reason to be of opinion, that thefts do not

happen more frequently (perhaps less so) than in other countries, the

dishonest practices of whose worthless individuals are not supposed to

authorize any indiscriminate censure on the whole body of the people.

Great allowances should be made for the foibles of these poor natives

of the Pacific Ocean, whose minds were overpowered with the glare of

objects, equally new to them as they were captivating. Stealing, among

the civilized nations of the world, may well be considered as denoting

a character deeply stained with moral turpitude: with avarice,

unrestrained by the known rules of right; and with profligacy,

producing extreme indigence, and neglecting the means of relieving it.

But at the Friendly and other islands which we visited, the thefts, so

frequently committed by the natives, of what we had brought along with

us, may be fairly traced to less culpable motives. They seemed to

arise solely from an intense curiosity or desire to possess something

which they had not been accustomed to before, and belonging to a sort

of people so different from themselves. And, perhaps, if it were

possible, that a set of beings, seemingly, as superior in our

judgment, as we are in theirs, should appear amongst us, it might be

doubted, whether our natural regard to justice would be able to

restrain many from falling into the same error. That I have assigned

the true motive for their propensity to this practice, appears from

their stealing every thing indiscriminately at first sight, before

they could have the least conception of converting their prize to any

one useful purpose. But, I believe, with us, no person would forfeit

his reputation, or expose himself to punishment, without knowing,

beforehand, how to employ the stolen goods. Upon the whole, the

pilfering disposition of these islanders, though certainly

disagreeable and troublesome to strangers, was the means of affording

us some information as to the quickness of their intellects.'

With respect to the religion of these Indians, Mr. Anderson maintains,

that they have very proper sentiments concerning the immateriality and

immortality of the soul; and thinks himself sufficiently authorized to

assert, that they do not worship any thing which is the work of their

own hands, or any visible part of the creation. The language of the

Friendly Islands has the greatest imaginable conformity with that of

New Zealand, of Wateeoo, and Mangeea. Several hundreds of the words of

it were collected by Mr. Anderson; and amongst these, are terms that

express numbers reaching to a hundred thousand. Beyond this limit they

never went, and probably were not able to go farther; for it was

observed, that when they had gotten thus far, they commonly used a

word which expresses an indefinite number.

On the 17th of July, our commander took his final leave of the

Friendly Islands, and resumed his voyage. An eclipse was observed in

the night between the 20th and the 21st; and on the 8th of August land

was discovered. Some of the inhabitants, who came off in canoes,

seemed earnestly to invite our people to go on shore; but Captain Cook

did not think proper to run the risk of losing the advantage of a fair

wind, for the sake of examining an island which appeared to be of

little consequence. Its name, as was learned from the natives, who

spake the Otaheite language, is Toobonai.

Pursuing his course, the captain reached Otaheite on the 12th, and

steered for Oheitepeha Bay, with an intention to anchor there, in

order to draw what refreshments he could from the south-east part of

the island, before he went down to Matavai. Omai's first reception

amongst his countrymen was not entirely of a flattering nature. Though

several persons came on board who knew him, and one of them was his

brother-in-law, there was nothing remarkably tender or striking in

their meeting. An interview which Omai had, on the 13th, with his

sister, was agreeable to the feelings of nature; for their meeting was

marked with expressions of tender affection, more easy to be conceived

than described. In a visit, likewise, which he received from an aunt,

the old lady threw herself at his feet, and plentifully bedewed them

with tears of joy.

Captain Cook was informed by the natives, that, since he was last at

the island, in 1774, two ships had been twice in Oheitepeha Bay, and

had left animals in the country. These, on farther inquiry, were found

to be hogs, dogs, goats, one bull, and a ram. That the vessels which

had visited Otaheite were Spanish, was plain from an inscription that

was cut upon a wooden cross, standing at some distance from the front

of a house which had been occupied by the strangers. On the transverse

part of the cross was inscribed,

_Christus vincit._

And on the perpendicular part,

_Carolus III. imperat. 1774._

Our commander took this occasion to preserve the memory of the prior

visits of the English, by inscribing, on the other side of the post,

_Georgius tertius Rex.

Annis 1767,

1769, 1773, 1774, & 1777._

Whatever might be the intentions of the Spaniards in their visit to

the island, it ought to be remembered to their honour, that they

behaved so well to the inhabitants, as always to be spoken of in the

strongest expressions of esteem and veneration.

Captain Cook had at this time an important affair to settle. As he

knew that he could now be furnished with a plentiful supply of

cocoa-nuts, the liquor of which is an excellent and wholesome

beverage, he was desirous of prevailing upon his people to consent to

their being abridged, during their stay at Otaheite and the

neighbouring islands, of their stated allowance of spirits to mix with

water. But as this stoppage of a favourite article, without assigning

some reason for it, might occasion a general murmur, he thought it

most prudent to assemble the ship's company, and to make known to them

the design of the voyage, and the extent of the future operations. To

animate them in undertaking with cheerfulness and perseverance what

lay before them he took notice of the rewards offered by parliament,

to such of his majesty's subjects as should first discover a

communication between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, in any

direction whatever, in the northern hemisphere; and also to such as

should first penetrate beyond the eighty-ninth degree of northern

latitude. The captain made no doubt, he told them, that he should find

them willing to co-operate with him in attempting as far as might be

possible, to become entitled to one or both these rewards; but that,

to give the best chance of success, it would be necessary to observe

the utmost economy in the expenditure of the stores and provisions,

particularly the latter, as there was no probability of getting a

supply any where, after leaving these islands. He strengthened his

argument by reminding them, that, in consequence of the opportunity's

having been lost of getting to the north this summer, the voyage must

last at least a year longer than had originally been supposed. He

entreated them to consider the various obstructions and difficulties

they might still meet with, and the aggravated hardships they would

endure, if it should be found necessary to put them to short

allowance, of any species of provisions, in a cold climate. For these

very substantial reasons, he submitted to them, whether it would not

be better to be prudent in time, and, rather than to incur the hazard

of having no spirits left, when such a cordial would most be wanted,

to consent to give up their grog now, when so excellent a liquor as

that of cocoa-nuts could be substituted in its place. In conclusion,

our commander left the determination of the matter entirely to their

own choice.

This speech which certainly partook much of the nature of true

eloquence, if a discourse admirably calculated for persuasion be

entitled to that character, produced its full effect on the generous

minds of English seamen. Captain Cook had the satisfaction of finding

that his proposal did not remain a single moment under consideration;

being unanimously and immediately approved of, without the least

objection. By our commander's order, Captain Clerke made the same

proposal to his people, to which they, likewise, agreed. Accordingly,

grog was no longer served, excepting on Saturday nights; when the

companies of both ships had a full allowance of it, that they might

drink the healths of their friends in England.

On the 24th, Captain Cook quitted the south-east part of Otaheite, and

resumed his old station in Matavia Bay. Immediately upon his arrival,

he was visited by Otoo, the king of the whole island, and their former

friendship was renewed; a friendship which was continued without

interruption, and cemented by a perpetual succession of civilities,

good offices, and entertainments. One of our commander's first objects

was to dispose of all the European animals which were in the ships.

Accordingly, he conveyed to Oparre, Otoo's place of residence, a

peacock and hen; a turkey cock and hen, one gander and three geese, a

drake and four ducks. The geese and ducks began to breed before our

navigators left their present station. There were already, at Otoo's,

several goats, and the Spanish bull; which was one of the finest

animals of the kind that was ever seen. To the bull Captain Cook sent

the three cows he had on board, together with a bull of his own; to

all which were added the horse and mare, and the sheep that had still

remained in the vessels.

The captain found himself lightened of a very heavy burden, in having

disposed of these passengers. It is not easy to conceive the trouble

and vexation, which had attended the conveyance of this living cargo,

through such various hazards, and to so immense a distance. But the

satisfaction which our commander felt, in having been so fortunate as

to fulfil his majesty's humane designs, in sending such valuable

animals, to supply the wants of the two worthy nations, afforded him

an ample recompense for the many anxious hours he had passed, before

this subordinate object of his voyage could be carried into execution.

At this time a war was on the point of breaking out, between the

inhabitants of Eimeo and those of Otaheite; and by the latter Captain

Cook was requested to take a part in their favour. With this request,

however, though enforced by frequent and urgent solicitations, the

captain, according to his usual wisdom, refused to comply. He alleged,

that, as he was not thoroughly acquainted with the dispute, and the

people of Eimeo had never offended him, he could not think himself at

liberty to engage in hostilities against them. With these reasons Otoo

and most of the chiefs appeared to be satisfied; but one of them,

Towha, was so highly displeased, that our commander never afterward

recovered his friendship.

Upon the present occasion, Captain Cook had full and undeniable proof,

that the offering of human sacrifices forms a part of the religious

institutions of Otaheite. Indeed, he was a witness to a solemnity of

this kind; the process of which he has particularly described, and has

related it with the just sentiments of indignation and abhorrence. The

unhappy victim, who was now offered to the object of worship, seemed

to be a middle-aged man, and was said to be one of the lowest class of

the people. But the captain could not learn, after all his inquiries,

whether the wretch had been fixed upon on account of his having

committed any crime which was supposed to be deserving of death. It is

certain, that a choice is generally, made either of such guilty

persons for the sacrifices, or of common low fellows, who stroll about

from place to place, without any visible methods of obtaining an

honest subsistence. Those who are devoted to suffer, are never

apprised of their fate, till the blow is given, that puts an end to

their being. Whenever, upon any particular emergency, one of the great

chiefs considers a human sacrifice to be necessary, he pitches upon

the victim, and then orders him to be suddenly fallen upon and killed,

either with clubs or stones. Although it should be supposed, that no

more than one person is ever devoted to destruction on any single

occasion, at Otaheite, it will still be found that these occurrences

are so frequent, as to cause a shocking waste of the human race; for

our commander counted no less than forty-nine skulls of former

victims, lying before the Morai, where he had seen another added to

the number. It was apparent, from the freshness of these skulls, that

no great length of time had elapsed since the wretches to whom they

belonged had been offered upon the altar of blood.

There is reason to fear, that this custom is as extensive as it is

horrid. It is highly probable that it prevails throughout the widely

diffused islands of the Pacific Ocean; and Captain Cook had particular

evidence of its subsisting at the Friendly Islands. To what an extent

the practice of human sacrifices was carried in the ancient world, is

not unknown to the learned. Scarcely any nation was free from it in a

certain state of society; and, as religious reformation is one of the

last efforts of the human mind, the practice may be continued, even

when the manners are otherwise far removed from savage life. It may

have been a long time before civilization has made such a progress as

to deprive superstition of its cruelty, and to divert it from

barbarous rites to ceremonies which, though foolish enough, are

comparatively mild, gentle and innocent.

On the 5th of September, an accident happened, which, though slight in

itself, was of some consequence from the situation of things. A young

ram of the Cape breed, which had been lambed and brought up with great

care on board the ship, as killed by a dog. Desirous as Captain Cook

was of propagating so useful a race among the Society Islands, the

loss of a ram was a serious misfortune. It was the only one he had of

that breed; and of the English breed a single ram was all that

remained.

Captain Cook and Captain Clerke, on the 14th, mounted on horseback,

and took a ride round the plain of Matavai, to the great surprise of a

large number of the natives, who attended upon the occasion, and gazed

upon the gentlemen with as much astonishment as if they had been

Centaurs. What the two captains had begun was afterward repeated every

day, by one and another of our people; notwithstanding which, the

curiosity of the Otaheitans still continued unabated. They were

exceedingly delighted with these animals, after they had seen the use

which was made of them. Not all the novelties put together, which

European visitors had carried amongst the inhabitants, inspired them

with so high an idea of the greatness of distant nations.

Though Captain Cook would not take a part in the quarrels between the

islands, he was ready to protect his particular friends, when in

danger of being injured. Towha, who commanded the expedition against

Eimeo, had been obliged to submit to a disgraceful accommodation.

Being full of resentment, on account of his not having been properly

supported, he was said to have threatened, that, as soon as the

captain should leave the island, he would join his forces to those of

Tiaraboo, and attack Otoo, at Matavai or Oparre. This induced our

commander to declare, in the most public manner, that he was

determined to espouse the interest of his friend, against any such

combination; and that, whoever presumed to assault him, should feel

the weight of his heavy displeasure, when he returned again to

Otaheite. Captain Cook's declaration had probably the desired effect;

for, if Towha had formed hostile intentions, no more was heard of the

matter.

The manner in which our commander was freed from a rheumatic

complaint, that consisted of a pain extending from the hip to the

foot, deserves to be recorded. Otoo's mother, his three sisters, and

eight other women went on board, for the express purpose of

undertaking the cure of his disorder. He accepted of their friendly

offer, had a bed spread for them on the cabin floor, and submitted

himself to their directions. Being desired to lay himself down amongst

them, then, as many of them as could get round him began to squeeze

him with both hands, from head to foot, but more particularly in the

part where the pain was lodged till they made his bones crack, and his

flesh became a perfect mummy. After undergoing this discipline about a

quarter of an hour, he was glad to be released from the women. The

operation, however gave him immediate relief; so that he was

encouraged to submit to another rubbing down before he went to bed;

the consequence of which was, that he was tolerably easy all the

succeeding night. His female physicians repeated their prescription

the next morning, and again in the evening; after which his pains were

entirely removed, and the cure was perfected. This operation, which is

called _romee_, is universally practised among these islanders;

being sometimes, performed by the men, but more generally by the

women.

Captain Cook, who now had come to the resolution of departing soon

from Otaheite, accompanied, on the 27th, Otoo to Oparre, and examined

the cattle and poultry, which he had consigned to his friend's care at

that place. Everything was in a promising way, and properly attended.

The captain procured from Otoo four goats; two of which he designed to

leave at Ulietea, where none had as yet been introduced; and the other

two he proposed to reserve for the use of any islands he might chance

to meet with in his passage to the north. On the next day, Oleo came

on board, and informed our commander that he had gotten a canoe, which

he desired him to carry home, as a present to the Earee rahie no

Pretane. This, he said, was the only thing he could send which was

worthy of his majesty's, acceptance. Captain Cook was not a little

pleased with Otoo, for this mark of his gratitude; and the more, as

the thought was entirely his own. Not one of our people had given him

the least hint concerning it; and it shewed, that he was fully

sensible to whom he stood indebted for the most valueable presents

that he had received. As the canoe was too large to be taken on board,

the captain could only thank him for his good intentions; but it would

have given him a much greater satisfaction, if his present could have

been accepted.

During this visit of our voyagers to Otaheite, such a cordial

friendship and confidence subsisted between them and the natives, as

never once to be interrupted by any untoward accident. Our commander

had made the chiefs fully sensible, that it was their interest to

treat with him on fair and equitable terms, and to keep their people

from plundering or stealing. So great was Otoo's attachment to the

English, that he seemed pleased with the idea of their having a

permanent settlement at Matavai; not considering, that from that time

he would be deprived of his kingdom, and the inhabitants of their

liberties. Captain Cook had too much gratitude and regard for these

islanders, to wish that such an event should ever take place. Though

our occasional visits may, in some respects, have been of advantage to

the natives, he was afraid that a durable establishment among them,

conducted as most European establishments amongst Indian nations have

unfortunately been, would give them just cause to lament that they had

been discovered by our navigators. It is not, indeed, likely that a

measure of this kind should at any time seriously be adopted, because

it cannot serve either the purposes of public ambition, or private

avarice; and, without such inducements, the captain has ventured to

pronounce that it will never be undertaken.

From Otaheite our voyagers sailed, on the 30th, to Eimeo, where they

came to an anchor on the same day. At this island the transactions

which happened were, for the most part, very unpleasant. A goat, which

was stolen, was recovered without any extraordinary difficulty, and

one of the thieves was, at the same time, surrendered; being the first

instance of the kind that our commander had met with in his connexions

with the Society Islands. The stealing of another goat was attended

with an uncommon degree of perplexity and trouble. As the recovery of

it was a matter of no small importance, Captain Cook was determined to

effect this at any rate; and accordingly he made an expedition across

the island, in the course of which he set fire to six or eight houses,

and burned a number of war canoes. At last, in consequence of a

peremptory message to Maheine, the chief of Eimeo, that not a single

canoe should be left in the country, or an end be put to the contest,

unless the animal in his possession should be restored, the goat was

brought back. This quarrel was as much regretted on the part of the

captain, as it could be on that of the natives. It grieved him to

reflect, that, after refusing the pressing solicitations of his

friends at Otaheite to favour their invasion of this island, he should

find himself so speedily reduced to the necessity of engaging, in

hostilities against its inhabitants; and in such hostilities as,

perhaps, had been more injurious to them than Towha's expedition.

On the 11th of October, the ships departed from Eimeo, and the next

day arrived at Owharre harbour, on the west side of Huaheine. The

grand business of our commander at this island was the settlement of

Omai. In order to obtain the consent of the chiefs of the island, the

affair was conducted with great solemnity. Omai dressed himself very

properly on the occasion; brought with him a suitable assortment of

presents; went through a variety of religious ceremonies; and made a

speech, the topics of which had been dictated to him by our commander.

The result of the negotiation was, that a spot of ground was assigned

him, the extent of which, along the shore of the harbour was about two

hundred yards; and its depth to the foot of the hill somewhat more. A

proportionable part of the hill was included in the grant. This

business having been adjusted in a satisfactory manner, the carpenters

of both ships were employed in building a small house for Omai, in

which he might secure his European commodities. At the same time, some

of the English made a garden for his use, in which they planted

shaddocks, vines, pineapples, melons, and the seeds of several other

vegetable articles. All of these Captain Cook bad the satisfaction of

seeing in a flourishing state before he left the island.

At Huaheine, Omai found a brother, a sister, and a brother-in-law, by

whom he was received with great regard and tenderness. But though

these people were faithful and affectionate in their attachment to

him, the captain discovered, with concern, that they were of too

little consequence in the island to be capable of rendering him any

positive service. They had not either authority or influence to

protect his person or property; and, in such a situation, there was

reason to apprehend, that he might be in danger of being stripped of

all his possessions, as soon as he should cease to be supported by the

power of the English. To prevent this evil, if possible, our commander

advised him to conciliate the favour and engage the patronage and

protection of two or three of the principal chiefs, by a proper

distribution of some of his moveables; with which advice he prudently

complied. Captain Cook, however, did not entirely trust to the

operations of gratitude, but had recourse to the more forcible motive

of intimidation. With this view, he took every opportunity of

signifying to the inhabitants, that it was his intention to return to

the island again, after being absent the usual time; and that, if he

did not find Omai in the same state of security in which he left him,

all those whom he should then discover to have been his enemies should

feel the weight of his resentment. As the natives had now formed an

opinion that their country would be visited by the ships of England at

stated periods, there was ground to hope, that this threatening

declaration would produce no inconsiderable effect.

When Omai's house was nearly finished, and many of his moveables were

carried ashore, a box of toys excited the admiration of the multitude

in a much higher degree than articles of a more useful nature. With

regard to his pots, kettles, dishes, plates, drinking mugs, glasses,

and the whole train of domestic accommodations, which in our

estimation are so necessary and important, scarcely any one of his

countrymen would condescend to look upon them. Omai himself, being

sensible that these pieces of English furniture would be of no great

consequence in his present situation, wisely sold a number of them,

among the people of the ships, for hatchets, and other iron tools,

which had a more intrinsic value in this part of the world, and would

give him a more distinguished superiority over those with whom he was

to pass the remainder of his days.

Omai's family, when he settled at Huaheine, consisted of eight or ten

persons, if that can be called a family to which a single female did

not as yet belong, nor was likely to belong, unless its master should

become less volatile. There was nothing in his present temper which

seemed likely to dispose him to look out for a wife; and, perhaps, it

is to be apprehended, that his residence in England had not

contributed to improve his taste for the sober felicity of a domestic

union with some woman of his own country.

The European weapons of Omai consisted of a musket, bayonet, and

carteuch box; a fowling-piece, two pair of pistols, and two or three

swords or cutlasses. With the possession of these warlike implements,

he was highly delighted; and it was only to gratify his eager desire

for them that Captain Cook was induced to make him such presents. The

captain would otherwise have thought it happier for him to be without

fire-arms, or any European weapons, lest an imprudent use of them (and

prudence was not his most distinguished talent) should rather increase

his dangers than establish his superiority. Though it was no small

satisfaction to our commander to reflect, that he had brought Omai

safe back to the very spot from which he had been taken, this

satisfaction was, nevertheless, somewhat diminished by the

consideration, that his situation might now be less desirable than it

was before his connexion with the English. It was to be feared, that

the advantages which he had derived from his visit to England would

place him in a more hazardous state, with respect to his personal

safety.

Whatever faults belonged to Omai's character, they were overbalanced

by his good nature and his gratitude. He had a tolerable share of

understanding, but it was not accompanied with application and

perseverance; so that his knowledge of things was very general, and in

most instances imperfect: nor was he a man of much observation. He

would not, therefore, be able to introduce many of the arts and

customs of England among his countrymen, or greatly to improve those

to which they have long been habituated. Captain Cook, however, was

confident, that he would endeavour to bring to perfection the fruits

and vegetables which had been planted in his garden. This of itself

would be no small acquisition to the natives. But the greatest benefit

which these islands are likely to receive from Omai's travels, will be

in the animals that are left upon them; and which, had it not been for

his coming to England, they might probably never have obtained. When

these multiply, of which Captain Cook thought there was little reason

to doubt, Otaheite and the Society Islands will equal, if not exceed,

any country in the known world, for plenty of provisions.

Before our commander sailed from Huaheine, he had the following

inscription cut on the outside of Omai's house:

_Georgius Tertius, Rex, 2 Novembris, 1777.

{ Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr.

Naves {

{ Discovery, Car. Clerk, Pr._

On the same day, Omai took his final leave of our navigators, in doing

which, he bade farewell to all the officers in a very affectionate

manner. He sustained himself with a manly resolution, till he came to

Captain Cook, when his utmost efforts to conceal his tears failed; and

he continued to weep all the time that the boat was conveying him to

shore. Not again to resume the subject I shall here mention, that when

the captain was at Ulietea, a fortnight after this event, Omai sent

two men with the satisfactory intelligence, that he remained

undisturbed by the people of Huaheine, and that every thing succeeded

well with him, excepting in the loss of his goat, which had died in

kidding. This intelligence was accompanied with a request, that

another goat might be given him, together with two axes. Our

commander, esteeming himself happy in having an additional opportunity

of serving him, dispatched the messengers back with the axes and a

couple of kids, male and female, which were spared for him out of the

Discovery.

The fate of the two youths, who had been brought from New Zealand,

must not be forgotten. As they were extremely desirous of continuing

with our people, Captain Cook would have carried them to England with

him, if there had appeared the most distant probability of their ever

being restored to their own country. Tiarooa, the eldest of them, was

a very well disposed young man, with strong natural sense, and a

capacity of receiving any instruction. He seemed to be fully convinced

of the inferiority of New Zealand to these islands, and resigned

himself, though not without some degree of reluctance, to end his

days, in ease and plenty, in Huaheine. The other had formed so strong

an attachment to our navigators, that it was necessary to take him out

of the ship, and carry him ashore by force. This necessity was the

more painful as he was a witty, smart boy: and, on that account, a

great favourite on board. Both these youths became a part of Omai's

family.

Whilst our voyagers were at Huaheine, the atrocious conduct of one

particular thief occasioned so much trouble, that the captain punished

him more severely than he had ever done any culprit before. Besides

having his head and beard shaved, he ordered both his ears to be cut

off, and then dismissed him. It can scarcely be reflected upon without

regret, that our commander should have been compelled to such an act

of severity.

On the 3rd of November, the ships came to an anchor in the harbour of

Ohamaneno, in the island of Ulietea. The observatories being set up on

the 6th, and the necessary instruments having been carried on shore,

the two following days were employed in making astronomical

observations. In the night between the 12th and 13th, John Harrison, a

marine, who was sentinel at the observatory, deserted, taking with him

his arms and accoutrements. Captain Cook exerted himself on this

occasion, with his usual vigour. He went himself in pursuit of the

deserter, who, after some evasion on the part of the inhabitants, was

surrendered. He was found sitting between two women, with the musket

lying before him; and all the defence he was able to make was, that he

had been enticed away by the natives. As this account was probably the

truth, and as it appeared besides, that he had remained upon his post

till within ten minutes of the time when he was to have been relieved,

the punishment which the captain inflicted upon him was not very

severe.

Some days after, a still more troublesome affair happened, of the same

nature. On the morning of the 24th, the captain was informed that a

midshipman and a seaman, both belonging to the Discovery, were

missing; and it soon appeared, that they had gone away in a canoe in

the preceding evening, and had now reached the other end of the

island. As the midshipman was known to have expressed a desire of

remaining at these islands, it was evident, that he and his companion

had gone off with that intention. Though Captain Clerke immediately

set out in quest of them with two armed boats, and a party of marines,

his expedition proved fruitless, the natives having amused him the

whole day with false intelligence. The next morning an account was

brought that the deserters were at Otaha. As they were not the only

persons in the ships who wished to spend their days at these favourite

islands, it became necessary for the purpose of preventing any farther

desertion, to recover them at all events. Captain Cook, therefore, in

order to convince the inhabitants that he was in earnest, resolved to

go after the fugitives himself; to which measure he was determined,

from having observed, in repeated instances, that the natives had

seldom offered to deceive him with false information.

Agreeably to this resolution, the captain set out, the next morning,

with two armed boats, being accompanied by Oree, the chief of Ulietea,

and proceeded immediately to Otaha. But when he had gotten to the

place where the deserters were expected to be found, he was acquainted

that they were gone over to Bolabola. Thither our commander did not

think proper to follow them having determined to pursue another

measure, which he judged would more effectually answer his purpose.

This measure was to put the chief's son, daughter, and son-in-law,

into confinement, and to detain them till the fugitives should be

restored. As to Oree, he was informed, that he was at liberty to leave

the ship whenever he pleased, and to take such methods as he esteemed

best calculated to get our two men back; that, if he succeeded, his

friends should be released; if not, that Captain Cook was resolved to

carry them away with him. The captain added, that the chief's own

conduct, as well as that of many of his people, in assisting the

runaways to escape, and in enticing others to follow them, would

justify any step that could be taken to put a stop to such

proceedings. In consequence of this explanation of our commander's

views and intentions, Oree zealously exerted himself to recover the

deserters, for which purpose he dispatched a canoe to Bolabola, with a

message to Opoony, the sovereign of that island, acquainting him with

what had happened, and requesting him to seize the two fugitives and

send them back. The messenger, who was no less a person than the

father of Pootoe, Oree's son-in-law, came, before he set out, to

Captain Cook, to receive his commands; which were, not to return

without the runaways, and to inform Opoony, that, if they had left

Bolabola, he must dispatch canoes in pursuit of them, till they should

finally be restored. These vigorous measures were, at length,

successful. On the 28th the deserters were brought back; and, as soon

as they were on board, the three prisoners were released. Our

commander would not have acted so resolutely on the present occasion,

had he not been peculiarly solicitous to save the son of a brother

officer from being lost to his country.

While this affair was in suspense, some of the natives, from their

anxiety on account of the confinement of the chief's relations, had

formed a design of a very serious nature; which was no less than to

seize upon the persons of Captain Clerke and Captain Cook. With regard

to Captain Clerke, they made no secret of speaking of their scheme,

the day after it was discovered. But their first and grand plan of

operations was to lay hold of Captain Cook. It was his custom to

bathe, every evening, in fresh water; in doing which he frequently

went alone, and always without arms. As the inhabitants expected him

to go, as usual, on the evening of the 26th, they had determined at

that time to make him a prisoner. But he had thought it prudent, after

confining Oree's family, to avoid putting himself in their power; and

had cautioned Captain Clerke, and the officers, not to venture

themselves far from the ships. In the course of the afternoon, the

chief asked Captain Cook, three several times, if he would not go to

the bathing-place; and when he found, at last, that the captain could

not be prevailed upon, he went off, with all his people. He was

apprehensive, without doubt, that the design was discovered; though no

suspicion of it was then entertained by our commander, who imagined,

that the natives were seized with some sudden fright, from which, as

usual, they would quickly recover. On one occasion, Captain Clerke and

Mr. Gore were in particular danger. A party of the inhabitants, armed

with clubs, advanced against them; and their safety was principally

owing to Captain Clerke's walking with a pistol in his hand, which he

once fired. The discovery of the conspiracy, especially so far as

respected Captain Clerke and Mr. Gore, was made by a girl, whom one of

the officers had brought from Huaheine. On this account, those who

were charged with the execution of the design were so greatly offended

with her, that they threatened to take away her life, as soon as our

navigators should leave the island: but proper methods were pursued

for her security. It was a happy circumstance that the affair was

brought to light; since such a scheme could not have been carried into

effect, without being, in its consequences, productive of much

distress and calamity to the natives.

Whilst Captain Cook was at Ulietea, he was visited by his old friend

Oree, who, in the former voyages, was chief, or rather regent, of

Huaheine. Notwithstanding his now being, in some degree, reduced to

the rank of a private person he still preserved his consequence; never

appeared without a numerous body of attendants; and was always

provided with such presents, as indicated his wealth, and were highly

acceptable.

The last of the Society Islands to which our commander sailed was

Bolabola, where he arrived on the 8th of December. His chief view in

passing over to this island was to procure from its monarch, Opoony,

an anchor which Monsieur de Bougainville had lost at Otaheite, and

which had been conveyed to Bolabola. It was not from a want of anchors

that Captain Cook was desirous of making the purchase, but to convert

the iron of which it consisted into a fresh assortment of trading

articles, these being now very much exhausted. The captain succeeded

in his negotiation, and amply rewarded Opoony for giving up the

anchor.

Whilst our commander was at Bolabola, he received an account of those

military expeditions of the people of this country, which he had heard

much of in each of his three voyages, and which had ended in the

complete conquest of Ulietea and Otaha. The Bolabola men, in

consequence of these enterprises, where in the highest reputation for

their valour; and, indeed, were deemed so invincible, as to be the

objects of terror to all the neighbouring islands. It was an addition

to their fame, that their country was of such small extent, being not

more than eight leagues in compass, and not half so large as Ulietea.

Captain Cook continued to the last his zeal for furnishing the natives

of the South Sea with useful animals. At Bolabola, where there was

already a ram, which had originally been left by the Spaniards at

Otaheite, he carried ashore an ewe, that had been brought from the

Cape of Good Hope; and he rejoiced in the prospect of laying a

foundation, by this present, for a breed of sheep in the island. He

left also at Ulietea, under the care of Oree, an English boar and sow,

and two goats. It may, therefore, be regarded as certain, that not

only Otaheite, but all the neighbouring islands, will, in a few years,

have their race of hogs considerably improved; and it is probable,

that they will be stocked with all the valuable animals, which have

been transported thither by their European visitors. When this shall

be accomplished, no part of the world will equal these islands, in the

variety and abundance of the refreshments which they will be able to

afford to navigators; nor did the captain know any place that excelled

them, even in their present state.

It is an observation of great importance, that the future felicity of

the inhabitants of Otaheite, and the Society Islands, will not a

little depend on their continuing to be visited from Europe. Our

commander could not avoid expressing it as his real opinion, that it

would have been far better for these poor people, never to have known

our superiority in the accommodations and arts which render life

comfortable, than after once knowing it, to be again left and

abandoned to their original incapacity of improvement. If the

intercourse between them and us should wholly be discontinued, they

cannot be restored to that happy mediocrity, in which they lived

before they were first discovered. It seemed to Captain Cook, that it

was become, in a manner, incumbent upon the Europeans to visit these

islands once in three or four years, in order to supply the natives

with those conveniences which we have introduced among them, and for

which we have given them a predilection. Perhaps they may heavily feel

the want of such occasional supplies, when it may be too late to go

back to their old and less perfect contrivances; contrivances which

they now despise, and which they have discontinued since the

introduction of ours. It is, indeed, to be apprehended, that by the

time that the iron tools, of which they had become possessed, are worn

out, they will have almost lost the knowledge of their own. In this

last voyage of our commander, a stone hatchet was as rare a thing

among the inhabitants as an iron one was eight years before; and a

chisel of bone or stone was not to be seen. Spike nails had succeeded

in their place; and of spike nails the natives were weak enough to

imagine that they had gotten an inexhaustible store. Of all our

commodities, axes, and hatchets remained the most unrivalled; and they

must ever be held in the highest estimation through the whole of the

islands. Iron tools are so strikingly useful, and are now become so

necessary to the comfortable existence of the inhabitants, that,

should they cease to receive supplies of them, their situation, in

consequence of their neither possessing the materials, nor being

trained up to the art of fabricating them, would be rendered

completely miserable. It is impossible to reflect upon this

representation of things without strong feelings of sympathy and

concern. Sincerely is it to be wished, that such may be the order of

events, and such the intercourse carried on with the southern

islanders, that, instead of finally suffering by their acquaintance

with us, they may rise to a higher state of civilization, and

permanently enjoy blessings far superior to what they had heretofore

known.

Amidst the various subordinate employments which engaged the attention

of Captain Cook and his associates, the great objects of their duty

were never forgotten. No opportunity was lost of making astronomical

and nautical observations; the consequence of which was, that the

latitude and longitude of the places where the ships anchored, the

variations of the compass, the dips of the needle, and the state of

the tides, were ascertained with an accuracy that forms a valuable

addition to philosophical science, and will be of eminent service to

future navigators.

Our commander was now going to take his final departure from Otaheite

and the Society Islands. Frequently as they had been visited, it might

have been imagined, that their religious, political, and domestic

regulations, manners and customs, must, by this time, be thoroughly

understood. A great accession of knowledge was undoubtedly gained in

the present voyage; and yet it was confessed, both by Captain Cook and

Mr. Anderson, that their accounts of things were still imperfect in

various respects; and that they continued strangers to many of the

most important institutions which prevail among the natives. There was

one part of the character of several of these people, on which the

well regulated mind of the captain would not permit him to enlarge.

'Too much,' says he, 'seems to have been already known, and published

in our former relations, about some of the modes of life, that made

Otaheite, so agreeable an abode to many on board our ships; and if I

could now add any finishing strokes to a picture, the outlines of

which have been already drawn with sufficient accuracy, I should still

have hesitated to make this journal the place for exhibiting a view of

licentious manners, which could only serve to disgust those for whose

information I write.

From Mr. Anderson's account of the Otaheitans, it appears, that their

religious system is extensive, and, in various instances, singular.

They do not seem to pay respect to one God as possessing pre-eminence,

but believe in a plurality of divinities, all of whom are supposed to

be very powerful. In different parts of the island, and in the

neighbouring islands, the inhabitants choose those deities for the

objects of their worship, who, they think, are most likely to protect

them, and to supply all their wants. If, however, they are

disappointed in their expectations, they deem it no impiety to change

their divinity, by having recourse to another, whom they hope to find

more propitious and successful. In general, their notions concerning

Deity are extravagantly absurd. With regard to the soul, they believe

it, according to Mr. Anderson, to be both immaterial and immortal; but

he acknowledges, that they are far from entertaining those sublime

expectations of future happiness which the Christian revelation

affords, and which even reason alone, duly exercised might teach us to

expect.

Although seventeen months had elapsed since Captain Cook's departure

from England, during which time he had not, upon the whole, been

unprofitably employed, he was sensible that, with respect to the

principal object of his instructions, it was now only the commencement

of his voyage and that, therefore, his attention was to be called anew

to every circumstance which might contribute towards the safety of his

people, and the ultimate success of the expedition. Accordingly, he

had examined into the state of the provisions, whilst he was at the

Society Islands, and, as soon as he had left them, and had gotten

beyond the extent of his former discoveries, he ordered a survey to be

taken of all the boatswain's and carpenters stores which were in the

ships, that he might be fully informed of their quantity and

condition; and, by that means, know how to use them to the greatest

advantage.

It was on the 8th of December, the very day on which he had touched

there, that our commander sailed from Bolabola. In the night between

the 22nd and 23rd, he crossed the line, in the longitude of 203° 15'

east; and on the 24th land was discovered, which was found to be one

of those low uninhabited islands, that are so frequent in this ocean.

Here our voyagers were successful in catching a large quantity of

turtle, which supplied them with an agreeable refreshment; and here,

on the 28th, an eclipse of the sun was observed by Mr. Bayley, Mr.

King, and Captain Cook. On account of the season of the year, the

captain called the land where he now was, and which he judged to be

about fifteen or twenty leagues in circumference, Christmas Island. By

his order, several cocoa-nuts and yams were planted, and some melon

seeds sown in proper places; and a bottle was left, containing this

inscription:

_Georgius Tertius, Rex. 31 Decembris, 1777.

{ Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr.

Naves {

{ Discovery. Car. Clerke, Pr._

On the 2nd of January, 1778, the ships resumed their course to the

northward, and though several evidences occurred of the vicinity of

land, none was discovered till the 18th, when an island made its

appearance, bearing north-east by east. Soon after, more land was

seen, lying towards the north, and entirely detached from the former.

The succeeding day was distinguished by the discovery of a third

island in the direction of west-north-west, and as far distant as the

eye could reach. In steering towards the second island, our voyagers

had some doubt whether the land before them was inhabited; but this

matter was speedily cleared up, by the putting off of some canoes from

the shore, containing from three to six men each. Upon their approach,

the English were agreeably surprised to find, that they spoke the

language of Otaheite, and of the other countries which had lately been

visited. These people were at first fearful of going on board; but

when, on the 20th, some of them took courage, and ventured to do it,

they expressed an astonishment, on entering the ship, which Captain

Cook had never experienced in the natives of any place during the

whole course of his several voyages. Their eyes continually flew from

object to object; and, by the wildness of their looks and gestures,

they fully manifested their entire ignorance with relation to every

thing they saw, and strongly marked to our navigators, that, till this

time, they had never been visited by Europeans, or been acquainted

with any of our commodities, excepting iron. Even with respect to

iron, it was evident that they had only heard of it, or at most, had

known it in some small quantity, brought to them at a distant period;

for all they understood concerning it was, that it was a substance

much better adapted to the purpose of cutting, or boring of holes,

than any thing their own country produced. Their ceremonies on

entering the ship, their gestures and motions, and their manner of

singing, were similar to those which our voyagers had been accustomed

to see in the places lately visited. There was, likewise, a farther

circumstance in which these people perfectly resembled the other

islanders: and that was, in their endeavouring to steal whatever came

within their reach; or rather to take it openly, as what would either

not be resented or not hindered. The English soon convinced them of

their mistake, by keeping such a watchful eye over them that they

afterwards were obliged to be less active in appropriating to

themselves every object that struck upon their fancy and excited the

desire of possession.

One order given by Captain Cook at this island was that none of the

boats' crews should be permitted to go on shore; the reason of which

was, that he might do every thing in his power to prevent the

importation of a fatal disease, which unhappily had already been

communicated in other places. With the same view, he directed that all

female visitors should be excluded from the ships. Another necessary

precaution, taken by the captain, was a strict injunction, that no

person known to be capable of propagating disorder should be sent upon

duty out of the vessels. Thus zealous was the humanity of our

commander, to prevent an irreparable injury from being done to the

natives. There are men who glory in their shame, and who do not care

how much evil they communicate. Of this there was an instance at

Tongataboo, in the gunner of the Discovery, who had been stationed on

shore to manage the trade for that ship; and who, though he was well

acquainted with his own situation, continued to have connexions with

different women. His companions expostulated with him without effect,

till Captain Clerke, hearing of the dangerous irregularity of his

conduct ordered him on board. If I knew the rascal's name, I would

hang it up, as far as lies in my power, to everlasting infamy.

Mr. Williamson being sent with the boats to search for water, and

attempting to land, the inhabitants came down in such numbers, and

were so violent in their endeavours to seize upon the oars, muskets,

and, in short, every thing they could lay hold of, that he was obliged

to fire, by which one man was killed. This unhappy circumstance was

not known to Captain Cook till after he had left the island; so that

all his measures were directed as if nothing of the kind had happened.

When the ships were brought to an anchor, our commander went on shore;

and, at the very instant of his doing it, the collected body of the

natives all fell flat upon their faces, and continued in that humble

posture, till, by expressive signs, he prevailed upon them to rise.

Other ceremonies followed; and the next day a trade was set on foot

for hogs and potatoes, which the people of the island gave in exchange

for nails and pieces of iron, formed into something like chisels. So

far was any obstruction from being met with in watering, that, on the

contrary, the inhabitants assisted our men in rolling the casks to and

from the pool; and readily performed whatever was required.

Affairs thus going on to the captain's satisfaction, he made an

excursion into the country, accompanied by Mr. Anderson and Mr.

Webber, the former of whom was as well qualified to describe with the

pen, as the latter was to represent with his pencil, whatever might

occur worthy of observation. In this excursion, the gentlemen, among

other objects that called for their attention, found a _Morai_.

On the return of our commander, he had the pleasure of finding that a

brisk trade for pigs, fowls, and roots was carrying on with the

greatest good order, and without any attempt to cheat, or steal, on

the part of the natives. The rapacious disposition they at first

displayed was entirely corrected by their conviction that it could not

be exercised with impunity. Among the articles which they brought to

barter, the most remarkable was a particular sort of cloak and cap,

that might be reckoned elegant, even in countries where dress is

eminently the object of attention. The cloak was richly adorned with

red and yellow feathers, which in themselves were highly beautiful,

and the newness and freshness of which added not a little to their

beauty.

On the 22nd, a circumstance occurred, which gave the English room to

suspect that the people of the island are eaters of human flesh. Not,

however, to rest the belief of the existence of so horrid a practice

on the foundation of suspicion only, Captain Cook was anxious to

inquire into the truth of the fact, the result of which was its being

fully confirmed. An old man, in particular, who was asked upon the

subject, answered in the affirmative, and seemed to laugh at the

simplicity of such a question. His answer was equally affirmative on a

repetition of the inquiry; and he added, that the flesh of men was

excellent food, or, as he expressed it, "savoury eating". It is

understood that enemies slain in battle are the sole objects of this

abominable custom.

The island, at which our voyagers had now touched, was called Atooi by

the natives. Near it was another island, named Oneeheow, where our

commander came to an anchor on the 29th of the month. The inhabitants

were found to resemble those of Atooi in their dispositions, manners,

and customs; and proofs, too convincing, appeared that the horrid

banquet of human flesh is here as much relished, amidst plenty, as it

is in New Zealand. From a desire of benefiting these people by

furnishing them with additional articles of food, the captain left

them a ram goat and two ewes, a boar and sow pig of the English breed,

and the seeds of melons, pumpkins and onions. These benevolent

presents would have been made to Atooi, the larger island, had not our

navigators been unexpectedly driven from it by stress of weather.

Though the soil of Oneeheow seemed in general poor it was observable,

that the ground was covered with shrubs and plants, some of which

perfumed the air with a more delicious fragrancy than what Captain

Cook had met with at any other of the countries that had been visited

by him in this part of the world.

It is a curious circumstance, with regard to the islands in the

Pacific Ocean which the late European voyages have added to the

geography of the globe, that they have generally been found to lie in

groups, or clusters. The single intermediate islands, which have as

yet been discovered, are few in proportion to the others; though there

are probably many more of them that are still unknown, and may serve

as steps, by which the several clusters are to some degree connected

together. Of the archipelago now first visited, there were five only

with which our commander became at this time acquainted. The names of

these, as given by the natives, were Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheow,

Oreehoua, and Tahoora. To the whole group Captain Cook gave the

appellation of Sandwich Islands, in honour of his great friend and

patron, the Earl of Sandwich.

Concerning the island of Atooi, which is the largest of the five, and

which was the principal scene of the captain's operations, he

collected, in conjunction with Mr. Anderson, a considerable degree of

information. The land, as to its general appearance, does not in the

least resemble any of the islands that our voyagers had hitherto

visited within the tropic, on the south side of the equator; excepting

so far as regards its hills near the centre, which slope gently

towards the sea. Hogs, dogs, and fowls, were the only tame or domestic

animals that were to be found; and these were of the same kind with

those which exist in the countries of the South Pacific Ocean. Among

the inhabitants (who are of a middle stature, and firmly made), there

is a more remarkable equality in the size, colour, and figure of both

sexes, than our commander had observed in most other places. They

appeared to be blessed with a frank and cheerful disposition; and, in

Captain Cook's opinion, they are equally free from the fickle levity

which distinguishes the natives of Otaheite, and the sedate cast

discernable amongst many of those at Tongataboo. It is a very pleasing

circumstance in their character, that they pay a particular attention

to their women, and readily lend assistance to their wives in the

tender offices of maternal duty. On all occasions, they seemed to be

deeply impressed with a consciousness of their own inferiority; being

alike strangers to the preposterous pride of the more polished

Japanese, and of the ruder Greenlander. Contrary to the general

practice of the countries that had hitherto been discovered in the

Pacific Ocean, the people of the Sandwich Islands have not their ears

perforated; nor have they the least idea of wearing ornaments in them,

though, in other respects, they are sufficiently fond of adorning

their persons. In every thing manufactured by them, there is an

uncommon degree of neatness and ingenuity; and the elegant form and

polish of some of their fishing-hooks could not be exceeded by any

European artist, even if he should add all his knowledge in design to

the number and convenience of his tools. From what was seen of their

agriculture, sufficient proofs were afforded, that they are not

novices in that art; and that the quantity and goodness of their

vegetable productions may as much be attributed to skilful culture, as

to natural fertility of soil. Amidst all the resemblances between the

natives of Atooi, and those of Otaheite, the coincidence of their

languages was the most striking; being almost word for word the same.

Had the Sandwich Islands been discovered by the Spaniards at an early

period, they would undoubtedly have taken advantage of so excellent a

situation, and have made use of them as refreshing places, for their

ships, which sail annually from Acapulca for Manilla. Happy, too,

would it have been for Lord Anson, if he had known that there existed

a group of islands, half way between America and Tinian, where all his

wants could effectually have been supplied, and the different

hardships to which he was exposed have been avoided.

On the second of February, our navigators pursued their course to the

northward, in doing which the incidents they met with were almost

entirely of a nautical kind. The long looked-for coast of New Albion

was seen on the 7th of March, the ships being then in the latitude of

44° 33' north, and in the longitude of 235° 20' east. As the vessels

ranged along the west side of America, Captain Cook gave names to

several capes and headlands which appeared in sight. At length, on the

29th, the captain came to an anchor at an inlet, where the appearance

of the country differed much from what had been seen before; being

full of mountains, the summits of which were covered with snow; while

the valleys between them, and the grounds on the sea-coast, high as

well as low, were covered, to a considerable breadth, was high,

straight trees, which formed a beautiful prospect, as of one vast

forest. It was immediately found, that the coast was inhabited; and

there soon came off to the Resolution three canoes, containing

eighteen of the natives; who could not, however, be prevailed upon to

venture themselves on board. Notwithstanding this, they displayed a

peaceable disposition; shewed great readiness to part with any thing

they had, in exchange for what was offered them; and expressed a

stronger desire for iron than for any other of our commercial

articles, appearing to be perfectly acquainted with the use of that

metal. From these favourable circumstances, our voyagers had reason to

hope, that they should find this a comfortable station to supply all

their wants, and to make them forget the hardships and delays which

they had experienced during a constant succession of adverse winds,

and boisterous weather, almost ever since their arrival upon the coast

of America.

The ships having happily found an excellent inlet, the coasts of which

appeared to be inhabited by a race of people who were disposed to

maintain a friendly intercourse with strangers, Captain Cook's first

object was to search for a commodious harbour; and he had little

trouble in discovering what he wanted. A trade having immediately

commenced, the articles which the inhabitants offered for sale were

the skins of various animals, such as bears, wolves, foxes, deer,

racoons, polecats, martins; and, in particular, of the sea-otters. To

these were added, besides the skins in their native shape, garments

made of them; another sort of clothing, formed from the bark of a

tree; and various different pieces of workmanship. But of all the

articles brought to market, the most extraordinary were human skulls,

and hands not yet quite stripped of their flesh; some of which had

evident marks of their having been upon the fire. The things, which

the natives took in exchange for their commodities, were knives,

chisels, pieces of iron and tin, nails, looking-glasses, buttons, or

any kind of metal. Glass beads did not strike their imaginations; and

cloth of every sort they rejected. Though commerce, in general, was

carried on with mutual honesty, there were some among these people who

were as much inclined to thievery as the islanders in the Southern

Ocean. They were, at the same time, far more dangerous thieves; for,

possessing sharp iron instruments, they could cut a hook from a

tackle, or any other piece of iron from a rope, the moment that the

backs of the English were turned. The dexterity with which they

conducted their operations of this nature, frequently eluded the most

cautious vigilance. Some slighter instances of deception, in the way

of traffic, Captain Cook thought it better to bear with, than to make

them the foundation of a quarrel; and to this he was the rather

determined, as the English articles were now reduced to objects of a

trifling nature. In the progress of the commerce, the natives would

deal for nothing but metal; and, at length, brass was so eagerly

sought for, in preference to iron, that, before our navigators quitted

the place, scarcely a bit of it was left in the ships, excepting what

belonged to the necessary instruments. Whole suits of clothes were

stripped of every button: bureaus were deprived of their furniture;

copper kettles, tin canisters, candlesticks, and whatever of the like

kind could be found, all went to wreck; so that these Americans became

possessors of a greater medley and variety of things from our people,

than any other nation that had been visited in the course of the

voyage.

Of all the uncivilized tribes which our commander had met with in his

several navigations, he never found any who had such strict notions of

their having a right to the exclusive property of everything which

their country produces, as the inhabitants of the sound where he was

now stationed. At first, they wanted to be paid for the wood and water

that were carried on board; and had the captain been upon the spot,

when these demands were made, he would certainly have complied with

them; but the workmen, in his absence, maintained a different opinion,

and refused to submit to any such claims. When some grass, which

appeared to be of no use to the natives, was wanted to be cut, as food

for the few goats and sheep which still remained on board, they

insisted that it should be purchased, and were very unreasonable in

their terms; notwithstanding which Captain Cook consented to gratify

them, as far as he was able. It was always a sacred rule with him,

never to take any of the property of the people whom he visited,

without making them an ample compensation.

The grand operation of our navigators, to their present station, was

to put the ships into a complete repair for the prosecution of the

expedition. While this business was carrying on, our commander took

the opportunity of examining every part of the sound; in the course of

which he gained a farther knowledge of the inhabitants, who in

general, received him with great civility. In one instance he met with

a surly chief, who could not be softened with presents, though he

condesended to accept of them. The females of the place over which he

presided shewed a more agreeable disposition; for some of the young

women expeditiously dressed themselves in their best apparel, and,

assembling in a body, welcomed the English to their village, by

joining in a song, which was far from being harsh or dissagreeable. On

another occasion, the captain was entertained with singing. Being

visited by a number of strangers, on the 22nd of April, as they

advanced towards the ships, they all stood up in their canoes, and

began to sing. Some of their songs, in which the whole body joined,

were in a slow, and others in a quicker time; and their notes were

accompanied with the most regular motions of their hands; or with

beating in concert, with their paddles, on the sides of their canoes;

to which were added other very expressive gestures. At the end of each

song, they continued silent for a few moments, and then began again,

sometimes pronouncing the word _Hooee!_ forcibly as a chorus.

Among the natives of the country, there was one chief who attached

himself to our commander in a particular manner. Captain Cook having,

at parting, bestowed upon him a small present, received, in return, a

beaver skin, of much greater value. This called upon the captain to

make some addition to his present, with which the chief was so much

pleased, that he insisted on our commander's acceptance of the

beaver-skin cloak which he then wore; and of which he was particularly

fond. Admiring this instance of generosity, and desirous that he

should not suffer by his friendship, the captain gave him a new

broad-sword, with a brass hilt; the possession of which rendered him

completely happy.

On Captain Cook's first arrival in this inlet, he had honoured it with

the name of King George's Sound; but he afterward found that it is

called Nootka by the natives. During his stay in the place, he

displayed his usual sagacity and diligence, in conjunction with Mr.

Anderson, in collecting every thing that could be learned concerning

the neighbouring country and its inhabitants; and the account is

interesting, as it exhibits a picture of productions, people, and

manners very different from what had occurred in the Southern Ocean. I

can only, as on former occasions, slightly advert to a few of the more

leading circumstances. The climate, so far as our navigators had

experience of it, was found to be in an eminent degree milder than

that on the east coast of America, in the same parallel of latitude:

and it was remarkable, that the thermometer, even in the night, never

fell lower than 42°; while in the day it frequently rose to 60°. With

regard to trees, those of which the woods are chiefly composed, are

the Canadian pine, the white cypress and the wild pine, with two or

three different sorts of pine that are less common. In the other

vegetable productions there appeared but little variety: but it is to

be considered, that, at so early a season, several might not yet have

sprung up; and that many more might be concealed from our voyagers, in

consequence of the narrow sphere of their researches. Of the land

animals, the most common were bears, deer, foxes, and wolves. The sea

animals, which were seen off the coast, were whales, porpoises, and

seals. Birds, in general, are not only rare as to the different

species, but very scarce as to numbers; and the few which are to be

met with are so shy, that, in all probability, they are continually

harassed by the natives; either to eat them as food, or to get

possession of their feathers, which are used as ornaments. Fish are

more plentiful in quantity than birds, but were not found in any great

variety; and yet, from several circumstances, there was reason to

believe, that the variety is considerably increased at certain

seasons. The only animals that were observed of the reptile kind were

snakes and water-lizards; but the insect tribe seemed to be more

numerous.

With respect to the inhabitants of the country, their persons are

generally under the common stature; but not slender in proportion,

being usually pretty full or plump, though without being muscular.

From their bringing to sale human skulls and bones, it may justly be

inferred, that they treat their enemies with a degree of brutal

cruelty; notwithstanding which, it does not follow, that they are to

be reproached with any charge of peculiar inhumanity: for the

circumstance now mentioned only marks a general agreement of character

with that of almost every tribe of uncivilized men, in every age, and

in every part of the globe. Our navigators had no reason to complain

of the disposition of the natives, who appeared to be a docile

courteous, good-natured people; rather phlegmatic in the usual cast of

their tempers, but quick in resenting what they apprehend to be an

injury, and easily permitting their anger to subside. Their other

passions, and especially their curiosity, seemed to lie in some

measure dormant; one cause of which may be found in the indolence

that, for the most part, is prevalent amongst them. The chief

employments of the men are those of fishing, and of killing land or

sea animals, for the sustenance of their families; while the women are

occupied in manufacturing their flaxen or woollen garments, or in

other domestic offices. It must be mentioned to their honour, that

they were always properly clothed, and behaved with the utmost

decorum; justly deserving all commendation, for a bashfulness and

modesty becoming their sex: and this was the more meritorious in them,

as the male inhabitants discovered no sense of shame. In their

manufactures and mechanic arts, these people have arrived to a greater

degree of extent and ingenuity, both with regard to the design and the

execution, than could have been expected from their natural

disposition, and the little progress to which they have arrived in

general civilization. Their dexterity, in particular, with respect to

works of wood, must principally be ascribe to the assistance they

receive from iron tools, which are in universal use amongst them, and

in the application of which they are very dexterous. Whence they have

derived their knowledge of iron was a matter of speculation with

Captain Cook. The most probable opinion is, that this and other metals

may have been introduced by way of Hudson's Bay and Canada, and thus

successively have been conveyed across the continent, from tribe to

tribe. Nor is it unreasonable to suppose, that those metals may

sometimes be brought, in the same manner, from the north-western parts

of Mexico.[11] The language of Nootka is by no means harsh or

disagreeable; for it abounds, upon the whole, rather with what may be

called labial and dental, than with guttural sounds. A large

vocabulary of it was collected by Mr. Anderson.

[Footnote 11: Two silver spoons of a construction similar to what

may sometimes be seen in Flemish pictures of still life, were

procured here by Mr. Gore, who bought them from a native, who wore

them, tied together with a leather thong, as an ornament round his

neck. Mr. Gore gave the spoons to Sir Joseph Banks.]

Whilst Captain Cook was at Nootka Sound, great attention was paid by

him, as usual, to astronomical and nautical subjects. The observations

which he had an opportunity of making were, indeed, so numerous, as to

form a very considerable addition to geographical and philosophical

science.

On the 26th, the repairs of the ships having been completed, every

thing was ready for the captain's departure. When, in the afternoon of

that day, the vessels were upon the point of sailing, the mercury in

the barometer fell unusually low; and there was every other presage of

an approaching storm, which might reasonably be expected to come from

the southward. This circumstance induced our commander in some degree

to hesitate, and especially as night was at hand, whether he should

venture to sail, or wait till the next morning. But his anxious

impatience to proceed upon the voyage, and the fear of losing the

present opportunity of getting out of the sound, made a greater

impression upon his mind, than any apprehension of immediate danger.

He determined, therefore, to put to sea at all events; and accordingly

carried his design into execution that evening. He was not deceived in

his expectations of a storm. Scarcely were the vessels out of the

sound before the wind increased to a strong gale, with squalls and

rain, accompanied by so dark a sky, that the length of the ships could

not be seen. Happily the wind took a direction that blew our

navigators from the coast; and though, on the 27th, the tempest rose

to a perfect hurricane, and the Resolution sprang a leak, no material

damage ensued.

In the prosecution of the voyage to the north, and back again to the

Sandwich Islands, the facts that occurred were chiefly of a nautical

kind. Minutely to record these is not the purpose of the present work,

and indeed would extend it to an unreasonable length.

From this long and important navigation, I can only select some few

incidents, that may be accommodated to the taste and expectations of

the generality of readers.

One thing it is not improper here to observe; which is, that the

captain, in his passage along the coast of America, kept at a distance

from that coast, whenever the wind blew strongly upon it, and sailed

on till he could approach it again with safety. Hence several great

gaps were left unexplored, and particularly between the latitudes of

50° and 55°. The exact situation, for instance, of the supposed

Straits of Anian was not ascertained. Every one who is acquainted with

the character of our commander will be sensible, that if he had lived

to return again to the north in 1779. he would have endeavoured to

explore the parts which had been left unexamined.

The first place at which Captain Cook landed, after his departure from

Nootka Sound, was at an island, of eleven or twelve leagues in length,

the south-west point of which lies in the latitude of 59° 49' north,

and the longitude of 216° 58' east. Here, on the 11th of May, at the

foot of a tree, on a little eminence not far from the shore, he left a

bottle, with a paper in it, on which were inscribed the names of the

ships, and the date of the discovery. Together with the bottle, he

enclosed two silver twopenny pieces of his majesty's coin, which had

been struck in 1772. These, with many others, had been given him by

the Reverend Dr. Kaye, the present Dean of Lincoln; and our commander,

as a mark of his esteem and regard for that learned and respectable

gentleman, named the island, after him, Kaye's island.

At an inlet, where the ships came to an anchor, on the 12th, and to

which Captain Cook gave the appellation of Prince William's Sound, he

had an opportunity not only of stopping the leak which the Resolution

had sprung in the late storm, and of prosecuting his nautical and

geographical discoveries, but of making considerable additions to his

knowledge of the inhabitants of the American coast. From every

observation which was made concerning the persons of the natives of

this part of the coast, it appeared, that they had a striking

resemblance to those of the Esquimaux and Greenlanders. Their canoes,

their weapons, and their instruments for fishing and hunting, are

likewise exactly the same, in point of materials and construction,

that are used in Greenland. The animals in the neighbourhood of Prince

William's Sound are, in general, similar to those which are found at

Nootka. One of the most beautiful skins here offered for sale, was,

however, that of a small animal, which seemed to be peculiar to the

place. Mr. Anderson was inclined to think that it is the animal which

is described by Mr. Pennant, under the name of the _casan_

marmot. Among the birds seen in this country, were the white-headed

eagle; the shag; and the _alcedo_, or great king-fisher, the

colours of which were very fine and bright. The humming-bird, also,

came frequently and flew about the ship, while at anchor; but it can

scarcely be supposed, that it can be able to subsist here during the

severity of winter. Waterfowl, upon the whole, are in considerable

plenty; and there is a species of diver, about the size of a

partridge, which seems peculiar to the place. Torsk and halibut were

almost the only kinds of fish that were obtained by our voyagers.

Vegetables, of any sort, were few in number; and the trees were

chiefly the Canadian and spruce pine, some of which were of a

considerable height and thickness. The beads and iron, that were found

among the people of the coast, must undoubtedly have been derived from

some civilized nation; and yet there was ample reason to believe that

our English navigators were the first Europeans with whom the natives

had ever held a direct communication. From what quarter, then, had

they gotten our manufactures? Most probably, through the intervention

of the more inland tribes, from Hudson's Bay, or the settlements on

the Canadian lakes. This, indeed, must certainly have been the case,

if iron was known, amongst the inhabitants of this part of the

American coast, prior to the discovery of it by the Russians, and

before there was any traffic with them carried on from Kamtschatka.

From what was seen of Prince William's Sound, Captain Cook judged that

it occupied, at least, a degree and a half of latitude, and two of

longitude, exclusively of the arms or branches, the extent of which is

not known.