CHAPTER VI.

Narrative of Captain Cook's Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, to the Period

of his Death.

Every preparation for the voyage being completed, Captain Cook

received an order to proceed to Plymouth, and to take the Discovery

under his command. Having, accordingly, given the proper directions to

Captain Clerke, he sailed from the Nore to the Downs, on the 25th of

June. On the 30th of the same month, he anchored in Plymouth Sound,

where the Discovery was already arrived. It was the 8th day of July

before our commander received his instructions for the voyage; and at

the same time, he was ordered to proceed with the Resolution, to the

Cape of Good Hope. Captain Clerke, who was detained in London, by some

unavoidable circumstances, was to follow as soon as he should join his

ship.

In the evening of the 12th, Captain Cook stood out of Plymouth Sound,

and pursued his course down the Channel. It was very early that he

began his judicious operations for preserving the health of his crew:

for, on the 17th, the ship was smoked between the decks with

gunpowder, and the spare sails were well aired. On the 30th, the moon

being totally eclipsed, the captain observed it with a night

telescope. He had not, on this occasion, an opportunity of making many

observations. The reason was, that the moon was hidden behind the

clouds the greater part of the time; and this was particularly the

case, when the beginning and the end of total darkness, and the end of

the eclipse, happened.

It being found, that there was not hay and corn sufficient for the

subsistence of the stock of animals on board, till the arrival of our

people at the Cape of Good Hope, Captain Cook determined to touch at

Teneriffe. This island he thought better adapted to the purposes of

procuring these articles, and other refreshments, than Madeira. On the

1st of August, he anchored in the road of Santa Cruz, and immediately

dispatched an officer to the governor, who, with the utmost

politeness, granted everything which our commander requested.

Were a judgment to be formed from the appearance of the country in the

neighbourhood of Santa Cruz, it might be concluded that Teneriffe is

so barren a spot, as to be insufficient for the maintenance even of

its own inhabitants. It was proved, however, by the ample supplies

which our navigators received, that the islanders had enough to spare

for visitors. The necessary articles of refreshment were procured at

such moderate prices, as to confirm Captain Cook in his opinion, that

Teneriffe is a more eligible place than Madeira, for ships to touch

at, which are bound on long voyages. Indeed, the wine of the latter

island is far superior to that of the former; but then it can only be

purchased by a sum of money proportionably larger.

During the short stay which the captain made at Teneriffe, he

continued with great assiduity his astronomical observations; and Mr.

Anderson has not a little contributed to the farther knowledge of the

country, by his remarks on its general state, its natural appearances,

its productions, and its inhabitants. He learned, from a sensible and

well informed gentleman, who resided in the island, that a shrub is

common there, which agrees exactly with the description given by

Tournefort and Linnaeus, of the _tea shrub_, as growing in China

and Japan. It is reckoned a weed, and every year is rooted out in

large quantities from the vineyards. The Spaniards, however, sometimes

use it as tea, and ascribe to it all the qualities of that which is

imported from China. They give it also the name of tea, and say that

it was found in the country when the islands were first discovered.

Another botanical curiosity is called the _impregnated lemon_;

which is a perfect and distinct lemon enclosed within another, and

differing from the outer one only in being a little more globular.

The air and climate of Teneriffe are, in general, remarkably

healthful, and particularly adapted to give relief in pulmonary

complaints. This the gentleman before mentioned endeavoured to account

for, from its being always in a person's power to procure a different

temperature of the air, by residing at different heights in the

island. He expressed, therefore, his surprise that the physicians of

England should never have thought of sending their consumptive

patients to Teneriffe, instead of Nice or Lisbon.

Although it is not understood that there is any great similarity

between the manners of the English and those of the Spaniards, it was

observable, that the difference between them was very little perceived

by Omai. He only said, that the Spaniards did not appear to be so

friendly as the English; and that, in their persons, they approached

to some resemblance of his own countrymen.

On the 4th, Captain Cook sailed from Teneriffe, and proceeded on his

voyage. Such was his attention, both to the discipline and the health

of his company, that twice in the space of five days, he exercised

them at great guns and small arms, and cleared and smoked the ship

below decks. On the evening of the 10th, when the Resolution was at a

small distance from the island of Bonavista, she ran so close upon a

number of sunken rocks, that she did but just weather the breakers.

The situation of our voyagers, for a few minutes, was very alarming.

In this situation the captain, with the intrepid coolness which

distinguished his character, did not choose to sound, as that, without

any possibility of lessening, might have heightened the danger.

While our commander was near the Cape de Verde Islands, he had an

opportunity of correcting an assertion of Mr. Nicholson with regard to

the manner of sailing by those islands, which, if implicitly trusted

to, might prove of dangerous consequence. On the 13th, our navigators

arrived before Port Praya, in the Island of St. Jago; but as the

Discovery was not there, and little water had been expended in the

passage from Teneriffe, Captain Cook did not think proper to go in;

but stood to the southward.

In the course of the voyage, between the latitudes of 12° and 7°

north, the weather was generally dark and gloomy. The rains were

frequent, and accompanied with that close and sultry weather, which

too often brings on sickness in this passage. At such a time, the

worst consequences are to be apprehended: and commanders of ships

cannot be too much upon their guard. It is necessary for them to

purify the air between decks with fire and smoke, and to oblige their

people to dry their clothes at every opportunity. The constant

observance of these precautions on board the Resolution was attended

with such success, that the captain had now fewer sick men than on

either of his former voyages. This was the more remarkable, as, in

consequence of the seams of the vessel having opened so wide, as to

admit the rain when it fell, there was scarcely a man who could lie

dry in his bed; and the officers in the gun-room were all driven out

of their cabins by the water that came through the sides. When settled

weather returned, the caulkers were employed in repairing these

defects, by caulking the decks and inside weather-works of the ship;

for the humanity of our commander would not trust the workmen over the

sides, while the Resolution was at sea.

On the 1st of September, our navigators crossed the equator. While, on

the 8th, Captain Cook was near the eastern coast of Brazil, he was at

considerable pains to settle its longitude, which, till some better

astronomical observations are made on shore in that country, he

concluded to be thirty-five degrees and a half, or thirty-six degrees

west, at most.

As our people proceeded on their voyage, they frequently saw, in the

night, those luminous marine animals, which have formerly been

mentioned and described. Some of them appeared to be considerably

larger than any which the captain had met with before; and sometimes

they were so numerous, that hundreds of them were visible at the same

moment.

On the 18th of October, the Resolution came to an anchor in Table Bay,

at the Cape of Good Hope; and the usual compliments having been paid

to Baron Plettenberg the governor, Captain Cook immediately applied

himself to his customary operations. Nothing remarkable occurred till

the evening of the 31st, when a tempest arose from the south-east,

which lasted three days, and which was so violent that the Resolution

was the only ship in the bay that rode out the gale without dragging

her anchors. The effects of the storm were sensibly felt by our people

on shore; for their tents and observatory were torn to pieces, and

their astronomical quadrant narrowly escaped irreparable damage. On

the 3rd of November, the tempest ceased, and the next day the English

were enabled to resume their different employments.

It was not till the 10th of the month, that Captain Cook had the

satisfaction of seeing the Discovery arrive in the bay, and effect her

junction with the Resolution. She had sailed from England on the 1st

of August, and would have reached the Cape of Good Hope a week sooner,

if she had not been driven from the coast by the late storm. Every

assistance was immediately given to put her into a proper condition

for proceeding on the voyage.

While the necessary preparations for the future navigation was

completing, a disaster happened with regard to the cattle which had

been carried out in the Resolution. They had been conveyed on shore

for the purpose of grazing. The bull, and two cows, with their calves,

had been sent to graze along with some other cattle: but Captain Cook

was advised to keep the sheep, which were sixteen in number, close to

the tents, where they were penned up every evening. During the night

preceding the 14th, some dogs having gotten in among them, forced them

out of the pen, killed four, and dispersed the rest. Six of them were

recovered the next day; but the two rams and two of the finest ewes in

the whole flock, were amongst those which were missing. Baron

Plettenberg being at this time in the country, our commander applied

to Mr. Hemmy, the lieutenant-governor, and to the fiscal, for redress;

and both these gentlemen promised to use their endeavours for the

recovery of the lost sheep. It is the boast of the Dutch, that the

police at the Cape is so carefully executed, that it is scarcely

possible for a slave, with all his cunning and knowledge of the

country, to effectuate his escape. Nevertheless, Captain Cook's sheep

evaded all the vigilance of the fiscal's officers and people. At

length, after much trouble and expense, by employing some of the

meanest and lowest scoundrels in the place, he recovered all but the

two ewes, of which he never could hear the least tidings. The

character given of the fellows to whom the captain was obliged to have

recourse, by the person who recommended their being applied to, was,

that for a ducatoon they would cut their master's throat, burn the

house over his head, and bury him and the whole family in the ashes.

During the stay of our voyagers at the Cape, some of the officers,

accompanied by Mr. Anderson, made a short excursion into the

neighbouring country. This gentleman, as usual, was very diligent in

recording every thing which appeared to him worthy of observation. His

remarks, however, in the present case, will be deemed of little

consequence, compared with the full, accurate, and curious account of

the Cape of Good Hope, with which Dr. Sparrman hath lately favoured

the literary world.

With respect to Captain Cook, besides the unavoidable care which lay

upon him, in providing his ships with whatever was requisite for the

commodious and successful prosecution of the voyage, his attention was

eminently directed to scientific objects. He was anxious to ascertain

the currents, the variations of the compass, and the latitude and

longitude of the places to which he came. The observations which he

collected, and recorded in his journal, while he was at the Cape of

Good Hope, will be esteemed of the greatest importance by judicious

navigators.

After the disaster which had happened to the sheep, it may well be

supposed that our commander did not long trust on shore those which

remained. Accordingly, he gave orders to have them, and the other

cattle, conveyed on board as fast as possible. He made an addition,

also, to the original stock, by the purchase of two young bulls, two

heifers, two young stallions, two mares, two rams, several ewes and

goats, and some rabbits and poultry. All these animals were intended

for New Zealand. Otaheite, and the neighbouring islands; and, indeed,

for any other places in the course of the voyage, where the leaving of

any of them might be of service to posterity.

In the supplies which were provided at the Cape, Captain Cook paid a

particular regard to the nature and extent of his undertaking. As it

was impossible to tell when or where he might meet with a place, which

could so amply contribute to his necessities, he thought proper to lay

in such a store of provisions for both ships, as would be sufficient

to last them for two years and upwards.

Our commander having given a copy of his instructions to Captain

Clerke, and an order directing him how to proceed in case of a

separation, weighed from Table Bay on the 30th of November, though it

was not till the 3rd of December that he got clear of the land. On the

6th the ships passed through several spots of water, nearly of a red

colour. When some of this was taken up, it was found to contain a

large quantity of small animals, of a reddish hue, and which the

microscope discovered to resemble a cray-fish. As our navigators

pursued their course to the south-east, a very strong gale, which they

had from the westward, was followed by a mountainous sea, in

consequence of which the Resolution rolled and tumbled so much, that

the cattle on board were preserved with the utmost difficulty. Soon

after, several of the goats, especially the males, together with some

sheep, died, notwithstanding, all the care to prevent it, that was

exercised by our people. This misfortune was chiefly owing to the

coldness of the weather, which now began to be felt in the most

sensible manner.

On the 12th, land was seen, which, upon a nearer approach, was found

to consist of two islands. That which lies most to the south, and is

the largest, was judged by Captain Cook to be about fifteen leagues in

circuit. The northerly one is about nine leagues in circuit; and the

two islands are at the distance of five leagues from each other. As

the ships passed through the channel between them, our voyagers could

not discover with the assistance of their best glasses, either tree or

shrub on either of them. They seemed to have a rocky and bold shore,

and their surface is for the most part composed of barren mountains,

the summits and sides of which were covered with snow. These two

islands, together with four others which lie from nine to twelve

degrees of longitude more to the east, and nearly in the same

latitude, had been discovered by Captains Marion du Fresne and Crozet,

French navigators, in January, 1772, on their passage, in two ships

from the Cape of Good Hope to the Philippine Islands. As no names had

been assigned to them in a chart of the Southern Ocean, which Captain

Crozet communicated to Captain Cook in 1775, our commander

distinguished the two larger ones by calling them Prince Edward's

Islands, after his majesty's fourth son. To the other four, with a

view of commemorating the discoverers, he gave the name of Marion's

and Crozet's Islands.

Though it was now the middle of summer in this hemisphere, the weather

was not less severe than what is generally met with in England in the

very depth of winter. Instead however, of being discouraged by this

circumstance, the captain shaped his course in such a manner, as to

pass to the southward of Marion's and Crozet's Islands, that he might

get into the latitude of land which had been discovered by M. de

Kerguelen, another French navigator. It was part of our commander's

instructions to examine whether a good harbour might not here be

found.

As our voyagers, on the 24th, were steering to the eastward, a fog

clearing up a little, which had involved them for some time, and which

had rendered their navigation both tedious and dangerous, land was

seen, bearing south-south-east. Upon a nearer approach, it was found

to be an island of considerable height, and about three leagues in

circuit. Another island, of the same magnitude, was soon after

discovered, and in a short space a third, besides some smaller ones.

At times, as the fog broke away, there was the appearance of land over

the small islands, and Captain Cook entertained thoughts of steering

for it, by running in between them. But, on drawing nearer, he found

that, so long as the weather continued foggy this would be a perilous

attempt. For if there should be no passage, or if our people should

meet with any sudden danger, there was such a prodigious sea, breaking

on all the shores in a frightful surf, that it would have been

impossible for the vessels to be gotten off. At the same time, the

captain saw another island; and as he did not know how many more might

succeed, he judged it prudent, in order to avoid getting entangled

among unknown lands in a thick fog, to wait for clearer weather.

The island last mentioned is a high round rock, which was named

Bligh's Cap. Our commander had received some very slight information

concerning it at Teneriffe, and his sagacity in tracing it was such,

as immediately led him to determine, that it was the same that M. de

Kerguelen had called the Isle of Rendezvous. His reason for giving it

that name is not very apparent; for nothing can rendezvous upon it but

fowls of the air, it being certainly inaccessible to every other

animal. The weather beginning to clear up, Captain Cook steered in for

the land, of which a faint view had been obtained in the morning. This

was Kerguelen's land. No sooner had our navigators gotten off Cape

François, then they observed the coast to the southward, to be much

indented by projecting points and bays; from which circumstance they

were sure of finding a good harbour. Accordingly, such a harbour was

speedily discovered, in which the ships came to an anchor on the 25th,

being Christmas-day. Upon landing, our commander found the shore

almost entirely covered with penguins and other birds, and with seals.

The latter, which were not numerous, having been unaccustomed to

visitors, were so insensible of fear, that as many as were wanted for

the purpose of making use of their fat or blubber, were killed without

difficulty. Fresh water was so plentiful, that every gully afforded a

large stream; but not a single tree or shrub, or the least sign of it,

could be met with, and but very little herbage of any sort. Before

Captain Cook returned to his ship, he ascended the first ridge of

rocks, that rise in a kind of amphitheatre, above one another, in

hopes of obtaining a view of the country; in which, however, he was

disappointed: for, previously to his reaching the top, there came on

so thick a fog, that he could scarcely find his way down again. In the

evening, the seine was hauled at the head of the harbour, but only

half a dozen small fish were caught. As no better success attended a

trial which was made the next day with hook and line, the only

resource for fresh provision was in birds, the store of which was

inexhaustible.

The people having wrought hard for two days, and nearly completed

their water the captain allowed them the 27th, as a day of rest, to

celebrate Christmas. Many of them, in consequence of this indulgence,

went on shore, and made excursions, in different directions, into the

country which they found barren and desolate in the highest degree.

One of them in his ramble, discovered, and brought to our commander,

in the evening, a quart bottle, fastened with some wire to a

projecting rock on the north side of the harbour. This bottle

contained a piece of parchment, on which was written the following

inscription:

_Ludovico XV. Galliarum

rege et d. de Boynes

regi a Secretis ad Res

maritimas annis 1772 et

1773._

It was clear, from this inscription, that our English navigators were

not the first who had been in the place. As a memorial of our people's

having touched at the same harbour, Captain Cook wrote, as follows, on

the other side of the parchment:

_Naves Resolution

et Discovery

de Rege Magnae Britanniae,

Decembris, 1776._

He then put it again into the bottle, together with a silver twopenny

piece of 1772. Having covered the mouth of the bottle with a leaden

cap, he placed it, the next morning in a pile of stones, erected for

the purpose, upon a little eminence on the north shore of the harbour,

and near to the place where it was first found. In this position it

cannot escape the notice of any European, whom accident or design may

bring into the port. Here the captain displayed the British flag, and

named the place Christmas Harbour, from our voyagers having arrived in

it on that festival.

After our commander had finished the business of the inscription, he

went in his boat round the harbour, to examine what the shore

afforded. His more particular object was to look for drift-wood; but

he did not find a single piece throughout the whole extent of the

place. On the same day, accompanied by Mr. King, his second

lieutenant, he went upon Cape François, with the hope, that, from this

elevation, he might obtain a view of the sea-coast, and of the

adjoining islands. But when he had gotten up, he found, that every

distant object below him was obscured in a thick fog. The land on the

same plain, or of a greater height, was sufficiently visible, and

appeared naked and desolate in the highest degree; some hills to the

southward excepted, which were covered with snow.

On the 29th, Captain Cook departed from Christmas Harbour, and

proceeded to range along the coast, with a view of discovering its

position and extent. In pursuing his course he met with several

promontories and bays, together with a peninsula, all of which he has

described and named, chiefly in honour of his various friends. Such

was the danger of the navigation, that the ships had more than once a

very narrow escape. On the same day, another harbour was discovered,

in which the vessels came to an anchor for one night. Here the

captain, Mr. Gore, and Mr. Bayley went on shore to examine the

country, which they found, if possible, more barren and desolate than

the land that lies about Christmas Harbour: and yet, if the least

fertility were any where to be expected, it ought to have existed in

this place, which is completely sheltered from the bleak and

predominating southerly and westerly winds. Our commander observed,

with regret, that there was neither food nor covering for cattle of

any sort; and that, if he left any, they must inevitably perish.

Finding no encouragement to continue his researches, he weighed anchor

and put to sea on the 30th, having given to the harbour the name of

Port Palliser. On the same day, he came to a point, which proved to be

the very eastern extremity of Kerguelen's Land. In a large bay, near

this point, there was a prodigious quantity of sea-weed, some of which

is of a most extraordinary length. It seemed to be the same kind of

vegetable production that Sir Joseph Banks had formerly distinguished

by the appellation of _fucus giganteus_. Although the stem is not

much thicker than a man's hand, Captain Cook thought himself well

warranted to say, that part of it grows to the length of sixty fathoms

and upward.

The result of the examination of Kerguelen's Land was, that the

quantity of latitude which it occupies doth not much exceed one degree

and a quarter. Its extent, from east to west, still remains undecided.

At its first discovery, it was probably supposed to belong to a

southern continent; but, in fact, it is an island, and that of no

great extent. If our commander had not been unwilling to deprive M.

Kerguelen of the honour of its bearing his name, he would have been

disposed, from its sterility, to call it the Island of Desolation.

It should here be mentioned, that M. de Kerguelen made two visits to

the coast of this country; one in 1772 and another in 1773. With the

first of these voyages Captain Cook had only a very slight

acquaintance; and to the second he was totally a stranger; so that he

scarcely had any opportunity of comparing his own discoveries with

those of the French navigator. M. de Kerguelen was peculiarly

unfortunate, in having done but little to complete what he had begun;

for though he discovered a new land, he could not, in two expeditions

to it, once bring his ships to an anchor upon any part of its coasts.

Captain Cook had either fewer difficulties to struggle with, or was

more successful in surmounting them.

During the short time in which our voyagers lay in Christmas Harbour,

Mr. Anderson lost no opportunity of searching the country in every

direction. Perhaps no place, hitherto discovered, under the same

parellel of latitude, affords so scanty a field for a natural

historian. All that could be known in the space of time allotted him,

and probably all that will ever be worthy to be known, was collected

by this gentleman. A verdure, which had been seen at a little distance

from the shore, gave our people the flattering expectation of meeting

with a variety of herbage: but in this they were greatly deceived. On

landing, it was perceived, that the lively colour which had imposed

upon them, was occasioned only by one small plant, not unlike some

sorts of _saxifrage_. It grows in large spreading tufts a

considerable way up the hills. The whole catalogue of plants does not

exceed sixteen or eighteen, including several kinds of moss, and a

beautiful species of lichen, which rises higher up from the rocks than

the rest of the vegetable productions. There is not the appearance of

a shrub in the whole country. Nature has been somewhat more bountiful

in furnishing it with animals; though, strictly speaking, they are not

inhabitants of the place, being all of the marine kind. In general,

the land is only used by them for breeding, and as a resting place. Of

these animals the most considerable are seals; being of that sort

which is called the ursine seal. The birds, which have already been

mentioned as very numerous, chiefly consist of penguins, ducks,

petrels, albatrosses, shags, gulls, and sea swallows. Penguins, which

are far superior in number to the rest are of three kinds, one of

which had never been seen by any of our voyagers before. The rocks, or

foundations of the hills are principally composed of that dark blue

and very hard stone, which seems to be one of the most universal

productions of nature. Nothing was discovered that had the least

appearance of ore or metal.

From this desolate coast Captain Cook took his departure on the 31st,

intending, agreeably to his instructions, to touch next at New

Zealand; that he might obtain a recruit of water, take in wood, and

make hay for the cattle. Their number was now considerably diminished;

for two young bulls, one of the heifers, two rams, and several of the

goats, had died while our navigators where employed in exploring

Kerguelen's Land. For some time they had fresh gales, and tolerably

clear weather. But on the 3rd of January, 1777, the wind veered to the

north, where it continued eight days, and was attended with so thick a

fog, that the ships ran above three hundred leagues in the dark.

Occasionally the weather would clear up, and give our people a sight

of the sun; but this happened very seldom, and was always of short

continuance. However, amidst all the darkness produced by the fog, the

vessels, though they seldom saw each other, were so fortunate, in

consequence of frequently firing guns as signals, that they did not

lose company. On the 12th, the northerly winds ended in a calm. This

was succeeded, in a little time, by a wind from the southward, which

brought on a rain that continued for twenty-four hours. At the end of

the rain, the wind freshened, and veering to the west and north-west,

was followed by fair and clear weather.

Nothing very remarkable occurred to our voyagers till the 24th, when

they discovered the coast of Van Dieman's Land; and, on the 26th, the

ships came to an anchor in Adventure Bay. Captain Cook, as soon as he

had anchored, ordered the boats to be hoisted out; in one of which he

went himself, to look for the most commodious place for obtaining the

necessary supplies. Wood and water were found in abundance, and in

places sufficiently convenient; but grass, which was most wanted, was

scarce, and, at the same time, very coarse. Necessity, however,

obliged our people to take up with such as could be procured.

On the 28th, the English who were employed in cutting wood, were

agreeably surprised with a visit from some of the natives. They

consisted of eight men and a boy, who approached our voyagers not only

without fear, but with the most perfect confidence and freedom. There

was only a single person among them who had any thing which bore the

least appearance of a weapon, and that was no more than a stick about

two feet long, and pointed at one end. These people were quite naked,

and wore no kind of ornaments; unless some large punctures, or ridges,

raised in different parts of their bodies, either in straight or

curved lines, may be considered in that light. Most of them had their

hair and beards smeared with a red ointment: and the faces of some of

them were painted with the same composition. Every present which

Captain Cook made them they received without the least appearance of

satisfaction. Of bread and elephant fish, which were offered them,

they refused to taste, but shewed that they were fond of birds, as an

article of food. Two pigs, which the captain had brought on shore,

having come within their reach, they seized them by the ears, as a dog

would have done, and would have carried them off immediately,

apparently with no other intention than to kill them. Our commander

being desirous of knowing the use of the stick which one of the

Indians had in his hands, he signified, by signs, his wishes to that

purpose. His intimations so far succeeded, that one of them set up a

piece of wood as a mark, and threw at it at the distance of about

twenty yards. There was but little reason to commend his dexterity;

for, after repeated trials, he was still very wide from his object.

Omai, to convince the natives how much our weapons were superior to

theirs, then fired his musket at the mark by which they were so

greatly terrified, that, notwithstanding all the endeavours of the

English to quiet their minds, they ran instantly into the woods.

After the retreat of the Indians, Captain Cook, judging that their

fears would prevent their remaining near enough to observe what

passed, ordered the two pigs, being a boar and sow, to be carried

about a mile within the head of the bay, and saw them left there, by

the side of a fresh water brook. It was, at first, his benevolent

intention to make an additional present to Van Dieman's Land, of a

young bull and cow, together with some sheep and goats. But, upon

reflection, he laid aside this design; being persuaded that the

natives would destroy them, from, their incapacity of entering into

his views with regard to the improvement of their country. As pigs are

animals which soon become wild, and are fond of the thickest cover of

the woods, there was the greater probability of their being preserved.

For the accommodation of the other cattle, an open place must have

been chosen; in which situation they could not possibly have been

concealed many days.

On the 29th, about twenty of the inhabitants, men and boys, joined

Captain Cook and such of his people as had landed with him, without

manifesting the least sign of fear or distrust. It was remarkable,

that one of the Indians was conspicuously deformed; nor was he more

distinguished by the hump upon his back, than by the drollery of his

gestures, and the humour of his speeches, which had the appearance of

being intended for the entertainment of our voyagers. Unfortunately,

the language in which he spake to them was wholly unintelligible. To

each of the present group the captain gave a string of beads and a

medal, which they seemed to receive with some satisfaction. On iron,

and iron tools, they appeared to set no value. There was reason to

believe, that they were even ignorant of fish-hooks; and yet it is

difficult to suppose, that a people who inhabit a sea-coast, and who

were not observed to derive any part of their sustenance from the

productions of the ground, should be unacquainted with some mode of

catching fish. However, they were never seen to be thus employed; nor

was any canoe or vessel discovered by which they could go upon the

water. Though they had rejected the kind of fish which had been

offered them, it was evident that shell fish made a part of their

food.

After Captain Cook had left the shore, several women and children made

their appearance, and were introduced to Lieutenant King by some of

the men that attended them. These females (a kanguroo skin excepted,

which was tied over their shoulders, and seemed to be intended to

support their infants) were as naked and as black as the men, and had

their bodies marked with scars in the same manner. Many of the

children had fine features, and were thought to be pretty; but a less

favourable report was made of the women, and especially of those who

were advanced in years. Some of the gentlemen, however, belonging to

the Discovery, as our commander was informed, paid their addresses and

made liberal offers of presents, which were rejected with great

disdain. It is certain that this gallantry was not very agreeable to

the men: for an elderly man, as soon as he observed it, ordered the

women to retire. The order was obeyed; but, on the part of some of the

females, with the appearance of a little reluctance.

On the present occasion, Captain Cook made some proper and pertinent

reflections, which I shall deliver in his own words. 'This conduct,'

says he, 'of Europeans among savages, to their women, is highly

blamable; as it creates a jealousy in their men, that may be attended

with consequences fatal to the success of the common enterprise, and

to the whole body of adventures, without advancing the private purpose

of the individual, or enabling him to gain the object of his wishes. I

believe it has generally been found, amongst uncivilized people, that

where the women are easy of access, the men are the first to offer

them to strangers; and that, where this is not the case, neither the

allurements of presents, nor the opportunity of privacy will be likely

to have the desired effect. This observation, I am sure, will hold

good throughout all the parts of the South Sea where I have been. Why

then should men act so absurd a part, as to risk their own safety, and

that of all their companions, in pursuit of a gratification, which

they have no probability of obtaining?'

While our navigators were at Van Dieman's Land, they were successful

in obtaining a plentiful crop of grass for their cattle, and such as

was far more excellent than what they had met with at their first

going on shore. The quantity collected was judged by the captain to be

sufficient to last till his arrival in New-Zealand.

Van Dieman's Land had been visited twice before. That name had been

given it by Tasman, who discovered it in 1642; from which time it had

escaped all notice of European navigators, till Captain Furneaux

touched at it, in 1773. It is well known that it is the southern point

of New Holland, which is by far the largest island in the world;

indeed, so large an island, as almost to deserve the appellation of a

continent.

While Captain Cook was at this country, he neglected nothing which

could promote the knowledge of science and navigation. Here, as every

where else, he settled the latitude and longitude of places; marked

the variations of the compass, and recorded the nature of the tides.

He corrected, likewise, an error of Captain Furneaux, with respect to

the situation of Maria's Islands; on which subject he hath candidly

remarked, that his own idea is not the result of a more faithful, but

merely of a second, examination.

Mr. Anderson, during the few days in which the ships remained in

Adventure Bay, exerted his usual diligence in collecting as full an

account as could be obtained, in so short a period of time, of the

natural productions and the inhabitants of the country. Little can be

said concerning either the personal activity or genius of the natives.

The first, they do not seem to possess in any remarkable degree; and,

to all appearance, they have less of the last, than even the

half-animated inhabitants of Terra del Fuego. Their not expressing

that surprise which might have been expected, from their seeing men so

much unlike themselves, and things to which they had hitherto been

utter strangers; their indifference for the presents of our people,

and their general inattention, were sufficient testimonies that they

were not endued with any acuteness of understanding. What the ancient

poets tell us of Fauns and Satyrs living in hollow trees is realized

at Van Dieman's Land. Some wretched constructions of sticks, covered

with bark, and which did not deserve the name of huts, were indeed

found near the shore; but these seemed only to have been erected for

temporary purposes. The most comfortable habitations of the natives

were afforded by the largest trees. These had their trunks hollowed

out by fire, to the height of six or seven feet; and there was room

enough in them for three or four persons to sit round a hearth, made

of clay. At the same time, these places of shelter are durable; for

the people take care to leave one side of the tree sound, which is

sufficient to keep it in luxuriant growth. The inhabitants of Van

Dieman's Land are undoubtedly from the same stock with those of the

northern parts of New Holland. Their language, indeed, appeared to be

different; but how far the difference extended, our voyagers could not

have an opportunity of determining. With regard to the New Hollanders

in general, there is reason to suppose that they originally came from

the same place with all the Indians of the South Sea.

On the 30th of January, 1777, Captain Cook sailed from Adventure Bay,

and on the 12th of February came to an anchor at his old station of

Queen Charlotte's Sound, in New Zealand. Being unwilling to lose any

time, he commenced his operations that very afternoon. By his order,

several of the empty water casks were immediately landed, and a place

was begun to be cleared for setting up the two observatories, and the

erection of tents, to accommodate a guard, and the rest of the

company, whose business might require them to remain on shore. Our

navigators had not long been at anchor, before a number of canoes,

filled with natives, came alongside of the ships. However, very few of

them would venture on board; which appeared the more extraordinary, as

the captain was well known to them all, and they could not be

insensible how liberally he had behaved to them on former occasions.

There was one man in particular, whom he had treated with remarkable

kindness, during the whole of his last stay in this place; and yet,

neither professions of friendship, nor presents, could prevail upon

him to enter the Resolution.

There was a real cause for this shyness on the part of the New

Zealanders. A dreadful event had happened to some of Captain

Furneaux's crew, while he lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound, after he had

finally separated from Captain Cook, in the former voyage. Ten men,

who had been sent out in the large cutter to gather wild greens, for

the ship's company, were killed in a skirmish with the natives. What

was the cause of the quarrel could not be ascertained, as not one of

the company survived to relate the story. Lieutenant Burney, who was

ordered to go in search of them, found only some fragments of their

bodies, from which it appeared that they had been converted into the

food of the inhabitants. It was the remembrance of this event, and the

fear of its being revenged, which now rendered the New Zealanders so

fearful of entering the English vessels. From the conversation of

Omai, who was on board the Adventure when the melancholy affair

happened, they knew that it could not be unknown to Captain Cook. The

captain, therefore, judged it necessary to use every endeavour to

assure them of the continuance of his friendship, and that he should

not disturb them on account of the catastrophe. It was most probably

in consequence of this assurance, that they soon laid aside all manner

of restraint and distrust.

In the meanwhile, the operations for refitting the ships, and for

obtaining provisions were carried on with great vigour, for the

protection of the party on shore, our commander appointed a guard of

ten marines, and ordered arms for all the workmen; with whom Mr. King,

and two or three petty officers, constantly remained. A boat was never

sent to a considerable distance without being armed, or without being

under the direction of such officers as might be depended upon, and

who were well acquainted with the natives. In Captain Cook's former

visits to this country, he had never made use of such precautions; nor

was he now convinced of their absolute necessity. But, after the

tragical fate of the crew of the Adventure's boat in this sound, and

of Captain Marion du Fresne, and some of his people, in the Bay of

Islands (in 1772), it was impossible to free our navigators from all

apprehensions of experiencing a similar calamity.

Whatever suspicions the inhabitants might at first entertain, that

their acts of barbarity would be revenged, they very speedily became

so perfectly easy upon the subject, as to take up their residence

close to our voyagers; and the advantage of their coming to live with

the English was not inconsiderable. Every day, when the weather would

permit, some of them went out to catch fish, and our people generally

obtained, by exchanges, a good share of the produce of their labours,

in addition to the supply which was afforded by our own nets and

lines. Nor was there a deficiency of vegetable refreshments; to which

was united sprucebeer for drink; so that if the seeds of the scurvy

had been contracted by any of the crew, they would speedily have been

removed by such a regimen. The fact, however, was, that there was only

two invalids upon the sick lists in both ships.

Curiosities, fish, and women, were the articles of commerce supplied

by the New Zealanders. The two first always came to a good market; but

the latter did not happen, at this time, to be an acceptable

commodity. Our seamen had conceived a dislike to these people, and

were either unwilling or afraid to associate with them; the good

effect of which was, that our commander knew no instance of a man's

quitting his station, to go to the habitations of the Indians. A

connexion with women it was out of Captain Cook's power to prevent;

but he never encouraged it, and always was fearful of its

consequences. Many, indeed, are of opinion, that such an intercourse

is a great security among savages. But if this should ever be the case

with those who remain and settle among them, it is generally otherwise

with respect to travellers and transient visitors. In such a situation

as was that of our navigators, a connexion with the women of the

natives, betrays more men than it saves. 'What else,' says the

captain, 'can reasonably be expected, since all their views are

selfish without the least mixture of regard or attachment? My own

experience, at least, which hath been pretty extensive, hath not

pointed out to me one instance to the contrary.'

Amongst the persons who occasionally visited the English, was a chief

of the name of Kahoora, who, as Captain Cook was informed, had headed

the party that cutoff Captain Furneaux's people, and had himself

killed Mr. Rowe, the officer who commanded. This man our commander was

strongly solicited to put to death, even by some of the natives; and

Omai was perfectly eager and violent upon the subject. To these

solicitations the captain paid not the least degree of attention. He

even admired Kahoora's courage, and was not a little pleased with the

confidence with which he had put himself into his power. Kahoora had

placed his whole safety in the declarations that Captain Cook had

uniformly made to the New Zealanders; which were that he had always

been a friend to them all, and would continue to be so, unless they

gave him cause to act otherwise; that as to their inhuman treatment of

our people, he should think no more of it, the transaction having

happened long ago, and when he was not present; but that, if ever they

made a second attempt of the same kind, they might rest assured of

feeling the weight of his resentment.

While our commander on the 16th, was making an excursion for the

purposes of collecting food for his cattle, he embraced the

opportunity to inquire, as accurately as possible, into the

circumstances which had attended the melancholy fate of our

countrymen. Omai was his interpreter on this occasion. The result of

the inquiry was, that the quarrel first took its rise from some

thefts, in the commission of which the natives were detected; that

there was no premeditated plan of bloodshed; and that if these thefts

had not, unfortunately, been too hastily resented, no mischief would

have happened. Kahoora's greatest enemies, and even the very men that

had most earnestly solicited his destruction, confessed, at the same

time, that he had no intention of quarrelling with Captain Furneaux's

people, and much less of killing any of them, till the fray had

actually commenced.

Captain Cook continued in this his last visit to New Zealand, the

solicitude he had formerly shewn to be of some essential future

service to the country. To one chief he gave two goats, a male and

female, with a kid; and to another two pigs, a boar and a sow.

Although he had obtained a promise from both these chiefs, that they

would not kill the animals which had been presented to them, he could

not venture to place any great reliance upon their assurances. It was

his full intention, on his present arrival in Queen Charlotte's Sound,

to have left not only goats and hogs, but sheep, together with a young

bull and two heifers. The accomplishment, however, of this resolution

depended either upon his finding a chief, who was powerful enough to

protect and keep the cattle, or upon his meeting with a place where

there might be a probability of their being concealed from those who

would ignorantly attempt to destroy them. Neither of these

circumstances happened to be conformable to his wishes. At different

times he had left to New Zealand ten or a dozen hogs, besides those

which had been put on shore by Captain Furneaux. It will, therefore,

be a little extraordinary, if this race of animals should not increase

and be preserved, either in a wild or a domestic state, or in both.

Our commander was informed, that Tiratou, a popular chief among the

natives, had a number of cocks and hens, and one sow, in his separate

possession. With regard to the gardens which had formerly been planted

though they had almost entirely been neglected, and some of them

destroyed, they were not wholly unproductive. They were found to

contain cabbages, onions, leeks, purslain, radishes, mustard, and a

few potatoes. The potatoes, which had first been brought from the Cape

of Good Hope, were greatly meliorated by change of soil; and, with

proper cultivation, would be superior to those produced in most other

countries.

A great addition of knowledge was obtained, during this voyage, with

respect to the productions of New Zealand, and the manners and the

customs of its inhabitants. The zeal of Captain Cook upon the subject

was admirably seconded by the sedulous diligence of Mr. Anderson, who

omitted no opportunity of collecting every kind and degree of

information. I shall only so far trespass on the patience of my

readers, as to mention a few circumstances tending to delineate the

character of the natives. They seemed to be a people perfectly

satisfied with the little they already possess; nor are they

remarkably curious either in their observations or their inquiries.

New objects are so far from striking them with such a degree of

surprise as might naturally be expected, that they scarcely fix their

attention even for a moment. In the arts with which they are

acquainted, they shew as much ingenuity, both in invention and

execution, as any uncivilized nations under similar circumstances.

Without the least use of those tools which are formed of metal, they

make every thing that is necessary to procure their subsistence,

clothing, and military weapons; and all this is done by them with a

neatness, a strength, and a convenience, that are well adapted to the

accomplishment of the several purposes they have in view. No people

can have a quicker sense of an injury done to them than the New

Zealanders, or be more ready to resent it; and yet they want one

characteristic of true bravery; for they will take an opportunity of

being insolent, when they think that there is no danger of their being

punished. From the number of their weapons, and their dexterity in

using them, it appears, that war is their principal profession.

Indeed, their public contentions are so frequent, or rather so

perpetual, that they must live under continual apprehensions of being

destroyed by each other. From their horrid custom of eating the flesh

of their enemies, not only without reluctance, but with peculiar

satisfaction, it would be natural to suppose that they must be

destitute of every humane feeling, even with regard to their own

party. This, however, is not the case; for they lament the loss of

their friends with a violence of expression which argues the most

tender remembrance of them. At a very early age the children are

initiated into all the practices, whether good or bad, of their

fathers; so that a boy or girl, when only nine or ten years old, can

perform the motions, and imitate the frightful gestures, by which the

more aged are accustomed to inspire their enemies with terror. They

can keep likewise the strictest time in their song; and it is with

some degree of melody that they sing the traditions of their

forefathers, their actions in war, and other subjects. The military

achievements of their ancestors, the New Zealanders celebrate with the

highest pleasure, and spend much of their time in diversions of this

sort, and in playing upon a musical instrument, which partakes of the

nature of a flute. With respect to their language, it is far from

being harsh or disagreeable, though the pronunciation of it is

frequently guttural; nor, if we may judge from the melody of some

kinds of their songs, is it destitute of those qualities, which fit it

to be associated with music. Of its identity with the languages of the

other islands throughout the South Sea, fresh proofs were exhibited

during the present voyage.

At the request of Omai, Captain Cook consented to take with him two

youths from New Zealand. That they might not quit their native country

under any deluding ideas of visiting it again, the captain took care

to inform their parents, in the strongest terms, that they would never

return. This declaration seemed, however, to make no kind of

impression. The father of the youngest had resigned him with an

indifference, which he would scarcely have shewn at parting with his

dog, and even stripped the boy of the little clothing he possessed,

delivering him quite naked into the hands of our voyagers. This was

not the case with the mother of the other youth. She took her leave of

him with all the marks of tender affection that might be expected

between a parent and a child on such an occasion; but she soon resumed

her cheerfulness, and went away wholly unconcerned.

On the 25th of the month, Captain Cook stood out of Queen Charlotte's

Sound, and by the 27th got clear of New Zealand. No sooner had the

ships lost sight of the land, than the two young adventurers from that

country, one of whom was nearly eighteen years of age, and the other

about ten, began deeply to repent of the step they had taken. It was

the experience of the sea-sickness, which gave this turn to their

reflections; and all the soothing encouragement the English could

think of, was but of a little avail. They wept, both in public and in

private, and made their lamentation in a kind of song, that seemed to

be expressive of the praises of their country and people, from which

they were to be separated for ever. In this disposition they continued

for many days: but as their sea-sickness wore off, and the tumult of

their minds subsided, the fits of lamentation became less and less

frequent, and at length entirely ceased. By degrees, their native

country and their friends were forgotten, and they appeared to be as

firmly attached to our navigators, as if they had been born in

England.

In the prosecution of the voyage, Captain Cook met with unfavourable

winds; and it was not till the 29th of March that land was discovered.

It was found to be an inhabited island, the name of which, as was

learned from two of the natives, who came off in a canoe, is Mangeea.

Our commander examined the coast with his boats, and had a short

intercourse with some of the inhabitants. Not being able to find a

proper harbour for bringing the ships to an anchorage, he was obliged,

to leave the country unvisited, though it seemed capable of supplying

all the wants of our voyagers. The island of Mangeea is full five

leagues in circuit, and of a moderate and pretty equal height. It has,

upon the whole, a pleasing aspect, and might be made a beautiful spot

by cultivation. The inhabitants, who appeared to be both numerous and

well fed, seemed to resemble those of Otaheite and the Marquesas in

the beauty of their persons; and the resemblance, as far as could be

judged in so short a compass of time, takes place, with respect to

their general disposition and character.

From the coast of Mangeea our commander sailed in the afternoon of the

30th, and on the next day land was again seen, within four leagues of

which the ships arrived on the 1st of April. Our people could then

pronounce it to be an island, nearly of the same appearance and extent

with that which had so lately been left. Some of the natives speedily

put off in their canoes, and three of them were pursuaded to come on

board the Resolution; on which occasion, their whole behaviour marked

that they were quite at their ease, and felt no kind of apprehension

that they should be detained, or ill used. In a visit from several

others of the inhabitants, they manifested a dread of approaching near

the cows and horses: nor could they form the least conception of their

nature. But the sheep and goats did not, in their opinion, surpass the

limits of their ideas; for they gave our navigators to understand that

they knew them to be birds. As there is not the most distant

resemblance between a sheep or goat, and any winged animal, this may

be thought to be almost an incredible example of human ignorance. But

it should be remembered, that, excepting hogs, dogs, and birds, these

people were strangers to the existence of any other land animals.

In a farther intercourse with the natives, who had brought a hog,

together with some plantains and cocoanuts, they demanded a dog from

our voyagers, and refused every thing besides which was offered in

exchange. One of the gentlemen on board happened to have a dog and a

bitch which were great nuisances in the ship; and these he might now

have disposed of in a manner that would have been of real future

utility to the island. But he had no such views in making them the

companions of his voyage. Omai, however, with a goodnature that

reflects honour upon him, parted with a favourite dog which he had

brought from England; and with this acquisition the people departed

highly satisfied.

On the 3rd of April, Captain Cook dispatched Mr. Gore, with three

boats, to endeavour to get upon the island. Mr. Gore himself, Omai,

Mr. Anderson, and Mr. Burney were the only persons that landed. The

transactions of the day, of which Mr. Anderson, drew up an ingenious

and entertaining account, added to the stock of knowledge gained by

our navigators, but did not accomplish Captain Cook's principal

object. Nothing was procured by the gentlemen, from the island, that

supplied the wants of the ships. In this expedition, Omai displayed

that turn of exaggeration, with which travellers have so frequently

been charged. Being asked by the natives concerning the English, their

ships, their country, and the arms they made use of, his answers were

not a little marvellous. He told these people, that our country had

ships as large as their islands; on board which were instruments of

war (describing our guns) of such dimensions, that several persons

might sit within them. At the same time, he assured the inhabitants,

that one of these guns was sufficient to crush their whole island at a

single shot. Though he was obliged to acknowledge that the guns on

board the vessels upon their coast were but small, he contrived by an

explosion of gunpowder, to inspire them with a formidable idea of

their nature and effect. It is probable, that this representation of,

things contributed to the preservation of the gentlemen, in their

enterprise on shore; for a strong disposition to retain them had been

shewn by the natives.

It seemed destined that this day should give Omai more occasions than

one of bearing a principal part in its transactions. The island,

though never visited by Europeans before, happened to have other

strangers residing in it; and it was entirely owing to Omai's having

attended on the expedition, that a circumstance so curious came to the

knowledge of the English. Scarcely had he been landed upon the beach,

when he found, among the crowd which had assembled there, three of his

own countrymen, natives of the Society Islands. That, at the distance

of about two hundred leagues from those islands, an immense unknown

ocean intervening, with the wretched boats their inhabitants are known

to make use of, and fit only for a passage where sight of land is

scarcely ever lost, such a meeting, at such a place, so accidentally

visited, should occur, may well be regarded as one of those unexpected

situations with which the writers of feigned adventures love to

surprise their readers. When events of this kind really happen in

common life, they deserve to be recorded for their singularity. It may

easily be supposed with what mutual surprise and satisfaction this

interview of Omai with his countrymen was attended. Twelve years

before, about twenty persons in number, of both sexes, had embarked on

board a canoe at Otaheite, to cross over to the neighbouring island of

Ulietea. A violent storm having arisen, which drove them out of their

course, and their provisions being very scanty, they suffered

incredible hardships, and the greatest part of them perished by famine

and fatigue. Four men only survived when the boat overset, and then

the destruction of this small remnant appeared to be inevitable.

However, they kept hanging by the side of the vessel, which they

continued to do for some days, when they were providentially brought

within sight of the people of this island, who immediately sent out

canoes and brought them on shore. The three men who now survived,

expressed a strong sense of the kind treatment they had received; and

so well satisfied were they with their present situation, that they

refused an offer which was made them of being conveyed to their native

country. A very important instruction may be derived from the

preceding narrative. It will serve to explain, better than a thousand

conjectures of speculative reasoners, how the detached parts of the

earth, and, in particular, how the islands of the South Sea, though

lying remote from any inhabited continent, or from each other, may

have originally been peopled. Similar adventures have occurred in the

history of navigation and shipwrecks.

The island on which Mr. Gore, Mr. Anderson, Mr. Burney, and Omai, had

landed is called Wateeoo by the natives, and is a beautiful spot,

having a surface composed of hills and plains, which are covered with

a verdure rendered extremely pleasant by the diversity of its hues.

Its inhabitants are very numerous; and many of the young men were

perfect models in shape; besides which, they had complexions as

delicate as those of the women, and appeared to be equally amiable in

their dispositions. In their manners, their general habits of life,

and their religious ceremonies and opinions, these islanders have a

near resemblance to the people of Otaheite and its neighbouring isles;

and their language was well understood, both by Omai and the two New

Zealanders.

The next place visited by Captain Cook was a small island, called

Wennooa-ette, or Otakootaia, to which Mr. Gore was sent, at the head

of a party who procured about a hundred cocoa-nuts for each ship, and

some grass, together with a quantity of the leaves and branches of

young trees, for the cattle. Though, at this time, no inhabitants were

found in Wennooa-ette, yet, as there remained indubitable marks of its

being, at least, occasionally frequented, Mr. Gore left a hatchet, and

several nails, to the full value of what had been taken away.

On the 5th, our commander directed his course for Harvey's Island,

which was only at the distance of fifteen leagues, and where he hoped

to procure some refreshments. This island had been discovered by him,

in 1773, during his last voyage, when no traces were discerned of its

having any inhabitants. It was now experienced to be well peopled, and

by a race of men who appeared to differ much, both in person and

disposition, from the natives of Wateeoo. Their behaviour was

disorderly and clamorous; their colour was of a deeper cast; and

several of them had a fierce and rugged aspect. It was remarkable,

that not one of them had adopted the practice, so generally prevalent

among the people of the southern Ocean, of puncturing or

_tatooing_ their bodies. But notwithstanding this singularity,

the most unequivocal proofs were exhibited of their having the same

common origin; and their language, in particular, approached still

nearer to the dialect of Otaheite, than that of Wateeoo, or Mangea. No

anchorage for the ships being found in Harvey's island, Captain Cook

quitted it without delay.

The captain being thus disappointed at all the islands he had met

with, since his leaving New Zealand, and his progress having

unavoidably been retarded by unfavourable winds, and other unforeseen

circumstances, it became impossible to think of doing any thing this

year in the high latitudes of the northern hemisphere, from which he

was still at so great a distance, though the season for his operations

there was already begun. In this situation, it was absolutely

necessary, in the first place, to pursue such measures as were most

likely to preserve the cattle that were on board. A still more capital

object was to save the stores and provisions of the ships, that he

might the better be enabled to prosecute his discoveries to the north,

which could not now be commenced till a year later than was originally

intended. If he had been so fortunate as to have procured a supply of

water, and of grass, at any of the islands he had lately visited, it

was his purpose to have stood back to the south, till he had met with

a westerly wind. But the certain consequence of doing this, without

such a supply, would have been the loss of all the cattle; while at

the same time, not a single advantage would have been gained, with

regard to the grand ends of the voyage. He determined, therefore, to

beat away for the Friendly Islands, where he was sure of being

abundantly provided.

In pursuing his course, agreeably to this resolution, our commander,

on the 14th, reached Palmerston Island, where, and at a neighbouring

islet, both of which were uninhabited, some little relief was

obtained. The boats soon procured a load of scurvy-grass and young

cocoa-nut trees, which was a feast for the cattle; and the same feast,

with the addition of palm cabbage, and the tender branches of the

_wharra_ tree, was continued for several days. On the 16th, Omai,

being on shore with the captain, caught with a scoop-net, in a very

short time, as much fish as served the whole party for dinner, besides

sending a quantity to both the ships. Birds, too, and particularly

men-of-war and tropic birds, were plentifully obtained; so that our

navigators had sumptuous entertainment. Omai acted as cook upon the

occasion. The fish and the birds he dressed with heated stones, after

the manner of his country; and performed the operation with a

dexterity and good humour which were greatly to his credit. From the

islet before mentioned, twelve hundred cocoa-nuts were procured, which

being equally divided among the crew, were of great use to them, both

on account of the juice and the kernel. There is no water in the

islets which are comprehended under the name of Palmerston Island. If

that article could be obtained, and good anchorage could be

accomplished within the reef, Captain Cook would prefer this island to

any of the uninhabited ones, for the mere purpose of refreshment. The

quantity of fish that might be caught would be sufficient; and a

ship's company could roam about unmolested by the petulance of the

inhabitants.

Different opinions have been entertained concerning the formation of

the low islands in the great ocean. From the observations which our

commander now made, he was convinced, that such islands are formed

from shoals, or coral banks, and, consequently, that they are always

increasing.

After leaving Palmerston's Island, Captain Cook steered to the west,

with a view of making the best of his way to Annamooka. During his

course, the showers were so copious, that our navigators saved a

considerable quantity of water. Finding that a greater supply could be

obtained by the rain in one hour, than could be gotten by distillation

in a month, the captain laid aside the still as a thing which was

attended with more trouble than profit. At this time, the united heat

and moisture of the weather, in addition to the impossibility of

keeping the ships dry, threatened to be noxious to the health of our

people. It was however, remarkable, that neither the constant use of

salt food, nor the vicissitudes of climate, were productive of any

evil effects. Though the only material refreshment our voyagers had

received, since their leaving the Cape of Good Hope, was that which

they had procured at New Zealand, there was not, as yet, a single sick

person on board. This happy situation of things was undoubtedly owing

to the unremitting attention of our commander, in seeing that no

circumstance was neglected, which could contribute to the preservation

of the health of his company.

On the 28th of April, Captain Cook touched at the Island of Komango;

and, on the 1st of May, he arrived at Annamooka. The station he took

was the very same which he had occupied when he visited the country

three years before; and it was probably almost in the same place where

Tasman, the first discoverer of this and some of the neighbouring

islands, anchored in 1643. A friendly intercourse was immediately

opened with the natives, and every thing was settled to the captain's

satisfaction. He received the greatest civilities from Toobou, the

chief of Annamooka; and Taipa, a chief from the Island of Komango,

attached himself to the English in so extraordinary a manner, that, in

order to be near them in the night, as well as in the day, he had a

house brought on men's shoulders, a full quarter of a mile, and placed

close to the shed, which was occupied by our party on shore. On the

6th our commander was visited by a great chief from Tongataboo, whose

name was Feenou, and who was falsely represented, by Taipa, to be the

king of all the Friendly Isles. The only interruption to the harmony

which subsisted between our people and the natives of Annamooka arose

from the thievish disposition of many of the inhabitants. They

afforded frequent opportunities of remarking, how expert they were in

the business of stealing. Even some of the chiefs did not think the

profession unbecoming their dignity. One of them was detected in

carrying a bolt out of the ship, concealed under his clothes; for

which Captain Cook sentenced him to have a dozen lashes, and kept him

confined till he had paid a hog for his liberty. After this act of

justice, our navigators were no longer troubled with thieves of rank:

but their servants, or slaves, were still employed in the dirty work;

and upon them a flogging seemed to make no greater impression that it

would have done upon the mainmast. When any of them happened to be

caught in the act, so far were their masters from interceding in their

favour, that they often advised our gentlemen to kill them. This,

however, being a punishment too severe to be inflicted, they generally

escaped without being punished at all; for of the shame, as well as of

the pain of corporal chastisement, they appeared to be equally

insensible. At length, Captain Clerke invented a mode of treatment,

which was thought to be productive of some good effect. He put the

thieves into the hands of the barber, and completely shaved their

heads. In consequence of this operation, they became objects of

ridicule to their own countrymen; and our people, by keeping them at a

distance, were enabled to deprive them of future opportunities for a

repetition of their rogueries.

The island of Annamooka being exhausted of its articles of food,

Captain Cook proposed, on the 11th, to proceed directly for

Tongataboo. From this resolution, however, he was diverted, at the

instance of Feenou, who warmly recommended in preference to it, an

island, or rather a group of islands, called Hapaee, lying to the

north-east. There, he assured our voyagers, they could be plentifully

supplied with every refreshment, in the easiest manner; and he

enforced his advice by engaging to attend them thither in person.

Accordingly, Hapaee was made choice of for the next station; and the

examination of it became an object with the captain, as it had never

been visited by any European ships.

On the 17th, our commander arrived at Hapaee, where he met with a most

friendly reception from the inhabitants, and from Earoupa, the chief

of the island. During the whole stay of our navigators, the time was

spent in a reciprocation of presents, civilities, and solemnities. On

the part of the natives were displayed single combats with clubs,

wrestling and boxing-matches, female combatants, dances performed by

men, and night entertainments of singing and dancing. The English, on

the other hand, gave pleasure to the Indians by exercising the

marines, and excited their astonishment by the exhibition of

fireworks. After curiosity had, on both sides, been sufficiently

gratified, Captain Cook applied himself to the examination of Hapaee,

Lefooga, and other neighbouring islands. As the ships were returning,

on the 31st, from these islands to Annamooka, the Resolution was very

near running full upon a low sandy isle, called Pootoo Pootooa,

surrounded with breakers. It fortunately happened, that the men had

just been ordered upon deck to put the vessel about, and were most of

them at their stations; so that the necessary movements were executed

not only with judgment, but also with alertness. This alone saved the

ship and her company from destruction. 'Such hazardous situations,'

says the captain, 'are the unavoidable companions of the man who goes

upon a voyage of discovery.'

During our commander's expedition to Hapaee, he was introduced to

Poulaho, the real king of the Friendly Isles; in whose presence it

instantly appeared how groundless had been Feenou's pretensions to

that character. Feenou, however, was a chief of great note and

influence. By Poulaho Captain Cook was invited to pass over to

Tongataboo, which request he complied with after he had touched, for

two or three days, at Annamooka. In the passage, the Resolution was

insensibly drawn upon a large flat, on which lay innumerable coral

rocks of different depths below the surface of the water.

Notwithstanding all the care and attention of our people to keep her

clear of them, they could not prevent her from striking on one of

these rocks. The same event happened to the Discovery; but fortunately

neither of the ships stuck fast or received any damage.

On the 10th of June, Captain Cook arrived at Tongataboo, where the

king was waiting for him upon the beach, and immediately conducted him

to a small, but neat house, which, he was told, was at his service,

during his stay in the island. The house was situated a little within

the skirts of the woods, and had a fine large area before it; so that

a more agreeable spot could not have been provided. Our commander's

arrival at Tongataboo was followed by a succession of entertainments

similar to those which had occurred at Hapaee, though somewhat

diversified in circumstances, and exhibited with additional splendour.

The pleasure, however, of the visit was occasionally interrupted by

the thieveries of many of the inhabitants. Nothing could prevent their

plundering our voyagers, in every quarter; and they did it in the most

daring and insolent manner. There was scarcely any thing which they

did not attempt to steal; and yet, as the crowd was always great, the

captain would not permit the sentinels to fire, lest the innocent

should suffer with the guilty.

Captain Cook, on the 19th, made a distribution of the animals which he

had selected as presents for the principal men of the island. To

Poulaho, the king, he gave a young English bull and cow, together with

three goats; to Mareewagee, a chief of consequence, a Cape ram and two

ewes; and to Feenou a horse and a mare. He likewise left in the island

a young boar and three young sows of the English breed; and two

rabbits, a buck and a doe. Omai, at the same time, was instructed to

represent the importance of these animals, and to explain, as far as

he was capable of doing it, the manner in which they should be

preserved and treated. Even the generosity of the captain was not

without its inconveniences. It soon appeared that some were

dissatisfied with the allotment of the animals; for, next morning, two

kids and two Turkey-cocks were missing. As our commander could not

suppose, that this was an accidental loss, he determined to have them

again. The first step he took was to seize on three canoes that

happened to be alongside the ships; after which he went on shore, and

having found the king, his brother, Feenou, and some other chiefs, he

immediately put a guard over them, and gave them to understand, that

they must remain under restraint, till not only the kid and the

turkeys, but the rest of the things which, at different times, had

been stolen from our voyagers, should be restored. This bold step of

Captain Cook was attended with a very good effect. Some of the

articles which had been lost were instantly brought back, and such

good assurances were given with regard to the remainder, that, in the

afternoon, the chiefs were released. It was a happy circumstance, with

respect to this transaction, that it did not abate the future

confidence of Poulaho and his friends in the captain's kind and

generous treatment.

On the 5th of July was an eclipse of the sun, which, however, in

consequence of unfavourable weather, was very imperfectly observed.

Happily, the disappointment was of little consequence, as the

longitude was more than sufficiently determined by lunar observations.

Captain Cook sailed from Tongataboo on the 10th, and, two days after,

came to anchor at the island of Middleburg, or Eooa, as it is called

by the inhabitants. Here he was immediately visited by Taoofa, the

chief, with whom he had formerly been acquainted. The intercourse now

renewed was friendly in the highest degree, both with Taoofa and the

rest of the natives; and our commander endeavoured to meliorate their

condition by planting a pineapple and sowing the seeds of melons, and

other vegetables, in the chief's plantation. To this he was encouraged

by a proof that his past endeavours had not been wholly unsuccessful.

He had, one day, served up to him at his dinner, a dish of turnips,

being the produce of the seeds which he had left at Eooa in his last

voyage.

The stay which Captain Cook made at the Friendly Islands was between

two and three months; during which time, some accidental difference

excepted, there subsisted the utmost cordiality between the English

and the natives. These differences were never attended with any fatal

consequences; which happy circumstance was principally owing to the

unremitting attention of the captain, who directed all his measures

with a view to the prevention of such quarrels, as would be injurious

either to the inhabitants or to his own people. So long as our

navigators staid at the islands, they expended very little of their

sea provisions, subsisting, in general, upon the produce of the

country, and carrying away with them a quantity of refreshments,

sufficient to last till their arrival at another station, where they

could depend upon a fresh supply. It was a singular pleasure to our

commander, that he possessed an opportunity of adding to the happiness

of these good Indians, by the useful animals which he left among them.

Upon the whole, the advantages of having landed at the Friendly

Islands were very great; and Captain Cook reflected upon it with

peculiar satisfaction, that these advantages were obtained without

retarding, for a single moment, the prosecution of the great object of

his voyage; the season for proceeding to the north having been

previously lost.

Besides the immediate benefits which both the natives and the English

derived from their mutual intercourse on the present occasion, such a

large addition was now made to the geographical knowledge of this part

of the Pacific Ocean, as may render no small service to future

navigators. Under the denomination of the Friendly Islands must be

included not only the group of Hapaee, but all those islands that have

been discovered nearly under the same meridian, to the north, as well

as some others, which, though they have never hitherto been seen by

any European voyagers, are under the dominion of Tongataboo. From the

information which our commander received, it appears, that this

archipelago is very extensive. Above one hundred and fifty islands

were reckoned up by the natives, who made use of bits of leaves to

ascertain their number; and Mr. Anderson, with his usual diligence,

procured all their names. Fifteen of them are said to be high or

hilly, and thirty-five of them large. Concerning the size of the

thirty-two which were unexplored, it can only be mentioned, that they

must be larger than Annamooka, which was ranked amongst the smaller

isles. Several, indeed, of those which belong to this latter

denomination, are mere spots, without inhabitants. Captain Cook had

not the least doubt but that Prince William's Islands, discovered and

so named by Tasman, were comprehended in the list furnished by the

natives. He had also good authority for believing that Keppel's and

Boscawen's Islands, two of Captain Wallis's discoveries to 1765, were

included in the same list; and that they were under the sovereign of

Tongataboo, which is the grand seat of government. It must be left to

future navigators to extend the geography of this part of the South

Pacific Ocean, by ascertaining the exact situation and size of nearly

a hundred islands, in the neighbourhood, which our commander had no

opportunity of exploring.