CENTRAL ASIATIC RUGS
THE land that extends eastward about fourteen hundred miles from the
Caspian Sea to the western boundary of the Chinese Empire, and northward
for a similar distance from the Arabian Sea through Beluchistan and
Afghanistan to the steppes of Western Siberia, is one of the least
civilised parts of the eastern continent. Here until within a few recent
years, the people lived the same untrammelled lives that their ancestors
pursued for past centuries; and the encroachments of the Russian Empire
on the north and the English on the southeast, have as yet made little
impression on their uncultured natures. To these circumstances it is
largely due that the rugs termed Central Asiatic, which come from this
district, still possess to a large degree the originality of design,
virility of character, and beauty of colour that are so rapidly
disappearing from the woven products of countries more subject to the
influence of Western civilisation.
These rugs may conveniently be divided into three natural sub-groups,
which include:
1. The Turkoman, consisting of what are known in this country as Royal
and Princess Bokharas, the Tekkes, Yomuds, Khivas, and Beshires, all of
which are made in Turkestan;[32] and the Afghan, of which part are made
in Turkestan and part in Afghanistan.
2. The Turko-Chinese, consisting of the Samarkands, which re made in
Western Turkestan, and the Kasghars and Yarkands made in Eastern
Turkestan.
3. The Beluchistans or Beluches, made principally in Beluchistan.
No other rugs adhere more strictly to uniformity of colour and design
than the Turkoman. And, when it is considered that their prevailing
tones and their simple, geometric designs are such as would readily be
adopted by people with primitive ideas of ornamentation, it seems
probable that they have been copied with only slight modification for a
great many centuries, even though more gorgeous and elaborate carpets
were woven during the short period when Samarkand was capital of the
East. This is probably true, notwithstanding no other country in the
world has been subject to more conquests than Turkestan or overrun by so
many different races. For here, as we learn by the aid of philology,
dwelt the Aryans even before the light of history had come to dispel the
mists of antiquity. Two or three thousand years later it was overrun by
Cyrus and added to the dominion of the Medes and Persians. In the V
Century A. D., Tartar tribes conquered it; and in the following century
Turks and Persians divided it between them. Still later it was again
overrun by the Arabs, who, sword in hand, converted the vanquished to
the creed of Islam. When a few more centuries had rolled away the Mongol
hordes of Genghis Khan swept over it; and once again it suffered
desolation under the iron hand of Tamerlane, “Scourge of Asia.” But in
spite of these waves of conquest and the minor struggles with Persians,
Greeks, and Romans, that left their impress on the country, each of the
several classes of Turkoman rugs, including even those made two
centuries ago, show a remarkable conformity to definite types, however
much may be their modification in small detail. Their nap is invariably
short; in all of them some shade of dark red is the predominating
colour; and in most of them some form of an octagon appears. They are,
moreover, the best woven and the most beautiful of the Central Asiatic
rugs.
[Illustration: MAP OF TURKESTAN]
Though the Turko-Chinese rugs are made in places subject to the
influence of Turkomans and far removed from the culture of Chinese, they
are unlike the rugs of the former and resemble those of the latter. Not
improbably this is because Tamerlane had gathered at Samarkand noted
artists and artisans from China, whose influence continued long after
his death. And as traditional patterns have been transmitted for
centuries, there is little doubt that some of the modern rugs, even
though falling far short of the standard of their early prototypes, more
closely resemble them than they do any other rugs of Asia. In these
pieces Turkoman simplicity of geometric figures is replaced by an
elaboration of conventional floral forms and by designs associated with
early philosophies; sobriety of colour yields to the bright and even
gaudy tones not infrequent in modern textile fabrics.
The Beluchistans, which are regarded as a sub-group of the Central
Asiatic rugs, show a closer relationship to the Turkoman rugs than to
any others. A few of them have octagonal patterns suggestive of
Bokharas, and all have the long webs at the ends and the heavy goat’s
hair selvage at the sides peculiar to Afghans and Tekkes. On the other
hand, many of the patterns both of field and border resemble Persian
workmanship; so that placing these rugs in the same group with the
Turkoman and Turko-Chinese rugs, which are not made in an adjoining
territory, is slightly arbitrary.
ROYAL BOKHARAS.—The best known district in Turkestan is the Khanate of
Bokhara, which extends from the offshoots of the lofty Pamir mountains
in the east to the desolate sandy plains beyond the Amu Daria, or Oxus
river, on the west. Situated in its northern half and near the centre of
a fertile valley is its capital, Bokhara, “The Noble.” Though noted for
its cruelty, it was once the intellectual centre of Asia, and still
possesses nearly a hundred schools and innumerable mosques. These and
its bazaars are almost all that remain of the splendour of those days
when the great caravans that came from China, India, Persia, and Russia
made it one of the great marts of the East.
On account of its commercial importance, the wild tribes of the Kirghiz
steppes, the Turkomans from Kizil Kum,[33] the Afghans who dwell north
of the Paropamisus range, and the fierce Tekkes and Yomuds from the
west, came and bartered their rugs for other necessities. Many of these
rugs were taken in caravans, that often numbered several thousand
camels, and sold in the Russian market places of Astrakan, Orenburg, or
Nijni Novgorod. Since they came from the same place, the term Bokhara
was often applied to each of the different classes. Thus we hear of
Royal Bokharas, Princess Bokharas, Tekke Bokharas, Yomud Bokharas, and
Khiva Bokharas.
Of these five classes the Royal Bokharas, as a rule, not only are the
best woven, but are made of the finest material; even the warp of many
of them is of soft, silky white wool. The old rugs were made in the city
and suburbs of Bokhara, where now only a few pieces are made. Both old
and new are found only as sedjadehs. They have two well-known patterns,
one of which consists of an octagon surrounding a quartered hexagon. Of
these quarters, which are either plain or contain a small triangle of
contrasting colour, a pair that are opposite are always white or cream
coloured, and the other pair are of some shade of red. Small triangular
figures are invariably seen above and below the hexagons, as well as
small diamond, oval, or spear-shaped figures at each end of the major
axis. In the other pattern the contour of the octagon is rounder; and
the hexagon is replaced by an eight-pointed star, at the centre of which
is a diamond containing a rectangle or occasionally a Greek cross.
Projecting into the four corners from the star are small designs, that
careful observation of a large number in many different kinds of rugs
shows to be leaf forms. Between the diagonally placed octagons of both
these types are stars or diamond-shaped figures, that are usually of the
same design regardless of the shape of the octagon. In large rugs the
centres of the octagons are generally joined by straight lines of dark
blue colour.
It is uncertain why the term Royal has been applied to this class of
Bokharas, but it is eminently befitting the old well-woven, velvet-like
pieces. A few have small patches of pink or ruby coloured silk; and all
have a prevailing tone of red diversified by deep blues and touches of
lighter red and ivory, that convey an idea of opulence and dignity
worthy of a king.
_Type Characteristics._ _Colours_, principally dark red, with minor
quantities of blue, pink or orange, and ivory. _Knot_, Sehna. Knots to
inch horizontally eight to twelve; perpendicularly, sixteen to
twenty-four. The rows of knots are firmly pressed down, so that the warp
is concealed at back and the weft is almost hidden. _Warp_, fine white
wool; each of the two threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent
at back. _Weft_, wool, of fine diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice
between every two rows of knots. _Pile_, fine wool, or occasionally
silk, clipped short. _Border_, three stripes divided by smaller coloured
lines. _Sides_, a blue double overcasting. _Both ends_, a narrow web and
short warp fringe. _Texture_, firm. _Weave_ at back is of fine grain.
_Usual length_, four to ten feet. _Usual width_, three fifths to four
fifths length.
[Illustration: PLATE 53. TURKOMAN RUG WITH KATCHLI PATTERN]
PRINCESS BOKHARAS.—The rugs known as Princess Bokharas are woven by the
Mohammedan tribes who dwell in parts of the Khanate of Bokhara. They are
nearly square and the field is divided into four equal sections by
perpendicular and horizontal bands. Because of this pattern they are
called “Katchlis,” a word derived from the Armenian language signifying
“like a cross.” The bands generally have designs that are co-ordinate
with those in part of the border; but not infrequently the designs of
the horizontal band differ from those of the perpendicular one, and in a
few rare instances consist of an octagonal figure. It is generally
believed that the well-known Y-shaped motive characteristic of the field
and the border is intended to represent the tree of life, but some
native weavers suggest a different interpretation. To them the whole rug
symbolises a mosque; the perpendicular arm of the cross is the entrance;
the Y-shaped designs are benches; and the broad diagonal lines with
serrated edges in the borders are groves of trees surrounding the
mosque. A very large percentage of these pieces are namazliks. One of
their peculiarities is the position of their unobtrusive tent-shaped
prayer arch, which is in a panel entirely within their upper border.
Compared with Royal Bokharas their nap is rarely of as fine quality, the
warp is usually of brown instead of cream white wool, and the weave is
coarser. Also, the tones of colour are more sombre, and of browner
shades; but in rare old pieces the rich mahogany and bronze hues of the
ground, on which are represented small designs in shades of cream and
dark blue, are exceedingly rich and pleasing. Unfortunately, within
recent years large numbers of this class have been made solely for
commercial purposes, and lack the finer qualities of their prototypes.
_Type Characteristics._ _Colours_, principally dark red or brown, with
minor quantities of dark blue and ivory. _Knot_, Sehna. Knots to inch
horizontally eight to twelve; perpendicularly, fourteen to eighteen. The
rows of knots are firmly pressed down, so that the warp is concealed at
back and the weft partly hidden. _Warp_, brown wool or goat’s hair; each
of the two threads of warp encircled by a knot is equally prominent at
back. _Weft_, wool, of fine diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice
between every two rows of knots. _Pile_, wool of short or medium length;
occasionally some goat’s hair is used. _Border_, three stripes,
separated by narrow lines. _Sides_, a double overcasting or a double
goat’s hair selvage of three cords. _Both ends_, a web and warp fringe.
_Texture_, stout. _Weave_ at back is of moderately fine grain. _Usual
length_, four and one half to six feet. _Usual width_, two thirds to
four fifths length.
TEKKES.—A little over two centuries ago there lived on the peninsula of
Mangishlar, on the eastern shore of the Caspian Sea, an almost unknown
tribe called the “Tekke,” a term which is said to denote a mountain
goat, and was applied on account of the headlong pace at which the men
rode over rough mountain sides. About the beginning of the XVIII Century
they packed their _khibitkas_,[34] and after moving southward to escape
from the attacks of a more powerful tribe, they met the Yomuds in the
southwestern corner of Turkestan and robbed them of their lands. Further
eastward they snatched the fertile oasis of Ak-kal from some Kurds,
whose ancestors a Shah of Persia had located there in earlier times to
protect his kingdom from fierce northern tribes. By irrigating and
cultivating the soil, they prospered and increased rapidly in
population, until, about 1830, they numbered one hundred thousand. One
fourth of them then moved eastward; and after settling on the banks of
the Tajand, not far from the Persian town of Saraks, they attacked the
inhabitants of Merv and captured the city. Growing thus to be a powerful
people, they occupied much of the country between Persia and the Amu
Daria.
Ever restless, they were constantly looking for weaker foes on whom to
fall; and when a leader would announce an intended raid, hundreds or
even thousands would meet at the appointed rendezvous prepared to
blindly follow him. Sometimes it was through the passes that looked down
into the fertile valleys of Northern Persia. Stealthily creeping through
them they would fall unexpectedly upon an unprotected village and dash
away with young women and children. If pursued, they would stab their
captives, and if necessary, ride more than one hundred miles a day in
flight. At other times, they would attack caravans crossing the deserts
and carry away both camels and wares.
[Illustration: PLATE 54. TURKOMAN PRAYER RUG, WHICH ACCORDING TO A.
BOGOLUBOW HAS THE TYPICAL PINDÉ PATTERN]
Their raids, however, were not viewed with complacence by the Russians,
who had been steadily advancing on the land lying between the Caspian
and the Amu Daria, and whose armies the Tekkes harassed. At length in
January, 1881, came the final death struggle in the memorable attack on
the fortress of Geok Teppe, where thirty-three thousand tribesmen and
seven thousand women and children had taken refuge. With the fall of
that stronghold and the terrible punishment that followed, the power of
the Tekkes was completely crushed; and a people whose ancestors for
countless centuries had roamed the desert, recognising no master,
yielded finally to the advance of civilisation.
These were the people whose wives and daughters wove the rugs generally
known as Tekke Bokharas, of which large numbers with excellent weave and
sterling dyes can still be found. As few of them were designed for
mosques or palaces, it is very unusual to find pieces over one hundred
years old, and even these are rare. Indeed, any that are now forty years
old should possess great interest, as they were woven at a time when the
Tekkes were still a fierce race. Very many have the Katchli pattern. The
prayer arch, which is similar to that of Princess Bokharas, is in a
panel exterior to the field and within the border. Not infrequently
there are three arches in the same horizontal panel, which, as a rule,
is above the field, but occasionally below it. In a great many of these
rugs the three-leaf clover is found in some part of the field; and in
the band of pile that extends beyond the border at one end are usually
small conventionalised bushes with white and yellow flowers. The pattern
shown in Plate L, Fig. 4 (opp. Page 250), appears almost invariably in
the outer stripe.
There are other types, into one of which it would seem as if the very
spirit of the desert had crept. Their dark ground colours are brightened
by lighter tones that give an effect of strange yet not inharmonious
beauty. A few would seem to speak of the early Zoroastrian faith, for in
their fields are designs like stars with effulgent rays that suggest the
burning altars of fire worshippers.
The shape or some peculiarity of the rug indicates the purpose for which
it was intended. For instance, the rugs which were made for doors of the
khibitkas have at the upper end a selvage with the web turned back and
hemmed, and at each corner a heavy braided cord of about two feet in
length, by which they were suspended. Other pieces have webs at both
ends. Many beautiful pieces are made for use on horses or camels. Those
intended for camels are of oblong shape with a field usually containing
large octagons, between which are smaller octagons similar to those in
Royal Bokharas.
Tekkes may be distinguished from the Princess Bokharas, which they
resemble, by their goat’s hair selvage at the sides, by one thread of
warp to each knot being slightly depressed at the back, and by their
coarser character. There is, however, a great similarity in the colours,
though in the Tekkes tones of deep plum and rich red are not uncommon.
_Type Characteristics._ _Colours_, principally dark red, brown, or plum,
with minor quantities of dark blue and ivory. _Knot_, Sehna. Knots to
inch horizontally seven to twelve; perpendicularly, nine to fourteen.
The rows of knots are slightly pressed down, but the warp shows at back.
_Warp_, wool or goat’s hair; one of the two threads encircled by a knot
is depressed below the other at back. _Weft_, wool of fine or medium
diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of
knots. _Pile_, wool, or occasionally goat’s hair of short or medium
length. _Border_, three stripes, separated by coloured lines. _Sides_, a
three-cord double goat’s hair selvage. _Lower end_, a wide coloured web
and long warp fringe. _Upper end_, a braided selvage turned back and
hemmed, or occasionally a wide coloured web and long warp fringe.
_Texture_, firm. _Weave_ at back of moderately fine grain. _Length_,
five to eight feet. _Usual width_, three fifths to four fifths length.
KHIVAS.—On the west bank of the Amu Daria, and stretching for two
hundred miles above its mouth, is the plain of the Khanate of Khiva.
Most of the people live in khibitkas, and either follow a nomad’s life
or raise from the alluvial soil, that is watered by innumerable canals,
crops of cotton, corn, and rice, as well as melons, peaches, and
pomegranates. A large population, also, inhabits the city of Khiva,
which before the building of the Siberian railway, was on one of the
direct highways between east and west. Caravans of nearly two thousand
camels regularly passed through it en route to Orenburg in spring and to
Astrakan in fall, carrying wares from districts farther to the east as
well as its own rugs and manufactured articles.
[Illustration: _COLOUR PLATE IX—SAMARKAND RUG_
_Although this rug is an excellent example of that class generally known
as Samarkands, it was bought in Yarkand. Undoubtedly it was woven in
some part of Turkestan that lies between these two cities; yet with the
exception of the eight-pointed stars at the centre of the upper and
lower medallions the pattern is characteristic of Chinese ornamentation.
Surrounding the central medallion, on a ground of rich deep blue, are
six conventionalised butterflies, and near them are four clusters of
pomegranates. At each end of the field are designs that suggest the tree
of life, which under different forms appears so persistently in the
woven fabrics of the East. The delicate drawing of these motives is
accentuated by the formal character of the four corners and by the broad
border of well-known stripes. It is a piece in which beauty of line and
colour is combined with unsolved symbolism._
_Loaned by Mr. Hulett C. Merritt_]
On account of the constant intercourse between the Khiva and Bokhara
tribes, their woven fabrics show a close relationship in patterns and
colours; yet they contain important differences. Those made by the Khiva
tribes are cruder, and reflect the effect of constant struggles against
the rigours of the desert and the fierce Kirghiz from the steppes to the
north. The wool is also coarser and longer, and the knots are much fewer
to the inch. Occasionally geometric as well as animal designs suggestive
of Caucasian influence occur. Moreover, the brownish threads of weft
that separate each row of knots, are noticeable at the back, whereas
in other Turkoman rugs the weft is hardly perceptible.
Many of the old pieces were very handsome, as is shown by the following
description of an antique goat’s hair carpet from Khiva by Dr.
Birdwood.[35] “The ground is of madder red, decorated with leaves and
scrolls and lozenge-shaped forms in red, white, and orange, each lozenge
being defined by a deep line of indigo blue. The ends terminate in a
fringe. Professor Vambery says that these rich lustrous carpets are made
entirely by the nomad women about Khiva, the head worker tracing out the
design in the desert sand and handing out to her companions the dyed
materials of different colours as required in the progress of weaving.”
_Type Characteristics._ _Colours_, principally dark red, with minor
quantities of blue and ivory. _Knot_, Ghiordes or Sehna. Knots to inch
horizontally six to ten; perpendicularly, eight to fourteen. The rows of
knots are but slightly pressed down, so that the warp shows at back.
_Warp_, wool or goat’s hair; each of the two threads encircled by a knot
is equally prominent at the back. _Weft_, wool of medium or coarse
diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of
knots. _Pile_, wool of medium length. _Border_, generally three stripes.
_Sides_, a double selvage of two or three cords, which is generally of
goat’s hair. _Both ends_, a web, one or more rows of knots and a warp
fringe. _Texture_, stout. _Usual length_, four and one half to six feet.
_Usual width_, three fifths to three quarters length.
YOMUDS.—When, in 1718, the Yomuds were driven by the Tekkes from their
homes in the well-watered region about Kizil Arvat, they moved to a less
fertile country to the north and west. Though now numbering about one
hundred thousand, they have few villages; and regardless of the dreary
sand storms, the biting cold of winter, or the terrible heat of summer,
they wander with their sheep and goats from place to place in search of
more favoured spots. Sometimes their khibitkas are seen along the border
of the Caspian Sea as far south as Astrabad in Khorassan, or among the
sandy trackless wastes of Kara Kum, nearly as far north as the Aral Sea.
Many of their rugs rival the Royal Bokharas in wealth of colour. The
prevailing tone of the field is usually red or maroon, but is sometimes
rose, plum, or dark brown; and the remaining shades correspond with the
blue, green, brown, and white of Tekkes. Contrasted with these is the
ivory ground of the border, which, as a rule, has a much brighter colour
than the field. Furthermore, the pile of the old pieces has a lustre
that is due to the excellence of the dyes and the thick soft wool.
There are several distinct types, of which only one is well-known. Its
pattern is clearly Turkoman, though the lesser designs show that there
has been frequent intercourse with the weavers of Caucasia. Covering the
field of these pieces are regularly placed diamond-shaped figures that
suggest those of the Royal Bokharas, from which they may have been
developed to the almost entire exclusion of the octagon; though the
latter appears much less prominently in the centre of the diamonds. In
the border occurs the running latch-hook, the barber-pole stripe, and a
geometrically drawn vine. The webs of the ends, which are usually red
and striped, are broad and have a fringe of goat’s hair, sometimes
braided into ropelike tassels, but more often hanging loose.
The saddle bags are of irregular shape resembling a flat walled tent,
and contain in both field and border much brighter colour than the rugs.
Their field is checkered with diamond-shaped figures rich in ivory
colour and separated from each other by diagonal barber-pole stripes;
their border contains the running latch-hook.
_Type Characteristics._ _Colours_, principally dark red and mahogany
brown, with minor quantities of blue, green, and white. _Knot_,
generally Sehna, occasionally Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally five
to eight; perpendicularly, seven to ten. The rows of knots are pressed
down, so that the warp is largely concealed at back. _Warp_, coarse wool
or goat’s hair; each of the two threads encircled by a knot is equally
prominent at the back, or one is slightly depressed below the other.
_Weft_, wool, of medium diameter, or occasionally wool mixed with goat’s
hair. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots.
_Pile_, wool, of medium length. _Border_, three stripes. _Sides_, either
a two-cord selvage of red alternating with blue or brown, or a goat’s
hair double selvage of three or four cords. _Both ends_, a broad,
reddish brown web through which, as a rule, run coloured lines or
several narrow stripes, and a long warp fringe. _Texture_, stout.
_Weave_ at back is moderately coarse. _Usual length_, five to twelve
feet. _Usual width_, two thirds to three quarters length.
BESHIRES.—On the Amu Daria and not far from Afghanistan is a small
district from which the rugs known as Beshires now and then find their
way to this country. As it is not far from several routes of caravans,
these rugs show a relationship to the products of other Turkoman tribes.
Their colour scheme is principally the dark red and brownish tones found
in Bokharas, Yomuds, and Khivas. The ends, too, have the web crossed by
several lines, such as blue, green, and yellowish brown, that are usual
in Afghans. The patterns sometimes contain a suggestion of the geometric
figures of the Yomuds and some Caucasian pieces; and yet they have a
striking character of their own. Not infrequently the field is covered
with broad, irregular scrolls or foliate forms, unlike anything seen in
any other class of rugs. Again the field may be occupied with a trellis
pattern, which divides it into diamond-shaped figures. Within these are
smaller diamonds surrounded by eight-pointed stars and quasi-floral
forms. The borders, as a rule, are narrow and have simple designs that
incline to the geometric; but a few are of fair width and are ornamented
with rosettes and conventionalised leaves. In namazliks, which are
rarely seen, the prayer arch lies within the field. Almost all of this
class found in this country are old rugs; and on account of their rich,
harmonious colours and unobtrusive yet distinctive patterns, are always
pleasing and interesting.
_Type Characteristics._ _Colours_, principally dark red and brown, with
minor quantities of blue, yellow, and white. _Knot_, Sehna. Knots to
inch horizontally seven to twelve; perpendicularly, seven to twelve. A
half knot, as it appears at back, is as long as, or longer than, wide.
The rows of knots are pressed down, so that the warp is almost hidden at
back. _Warp_, generally goat’s hair. Each of the two threads encircled
by a knot is equally prominent at back, or occasionally one is slightly
depressed. _Weft_, wool or goat’s hair of medium or coarse diameter. A
thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots. _Pile_,
wool, of medium length. _Border_, generally three stripes, occasionally
only one. _Sides_, a goat’s hair selvage of two to four cords. _Both
ends_, a wide web, crossed with several coloured stripes. _Texture_,
stout. _Weave_, coarse. _Length_, four to twelve feet. _Usual width_,
two fifths to two thirds length.
AFGHANS.—One of the most distinctive classes of Turkoman rugs is known
in this country both as Afghans and Khivas. Both of these names are
unfortunately applied; for their only title to be called the latter is
that many were formerly exported from the bazaars of Khiva, and that
they slightly resemble the rugs of that city. Nor are they strictly
Afghans, since they come from the territory of mountain ridges and
fertile valleys that stretches from the Hindu Koosh Mountains northward
across the eastern part of the Khanate Bokhara, and are made by the
tribesmen of both countries. In fact, they differ considerably from the
rugs of Central and Southern Afghanistan, and bear no resemblance to
those of floral pattern woven about Herat.
Within the territory where these rugs are made the Aryan and Teutonic
races have met and blended; and across it have passed the armies of the
greatest conquerors of Asia. Here still exist some of the most untamed
races of the East, feeding their flocks on lofty table-lands, or
cultivating patches of valleys, through which flow icy streams to form
the Amu Daria. Here the rights of hospitality are held sacred, but
wrongs are revenged without recourse to any tribunal.
When the antecedents, customs, and surroundings of the people are taken
into consideration, it is not strange that their rugs should be strong
and firm in texture, bold in design, positive and striking in colour.
Most of them are large and almost square in shape, though mats are not
uncommon. The traditional pattern consists of perpendicular rows,
usually three in number, of large octagons, that are almost in contact.
Between these rows are much smaller diamond-shaped designs, which
consist in some pieces of a cluster of eight-pointed stars, and in
others of a geometric figure that is occasionally fringed with hooks and
contains within its centre an eight-pointed star.
With a few exceptions the octagons, which closely resemble those of
Royal Bokharas, are symmetrical, and all their details are drawn as
regularly as if the rugs were factory woven. They are invariably divided
into quarters which usually are marked with a small figure like a
three-leaf clover. The field contains but few adventitious designs and
they are rarely animal, as the Afghans are Sunni Mohammedans. One of the
most common of these designs, which appears also in the Tekkes and
Yomuds, is probably intended to represent part of the headstall of camel
trappings. The pattern of the border conforms to that of the field, but
frequently has crudely drawn floral forms and a conventionalised vine.
The sides have an added selvage of brown goat’s hair; and the ends
are finished with reddish brown webs, from which hang loose fringes of
dark wool or goat’s hair.
[Illustration: PLATE 55. TURKOMAN RUG OF THE SALOR TRIBES]
As characteristic as the large bold octagons are the colours, which
however subdued are invariably of rich hues. Those of the field consist
of dark red, maroon, or reddish brown. The quarters of the octagon are
of a deep blue alternating with a red that is lighter than the field. In
some pieces this red is blood colour, or nearly crimson, standing out in
bold relief against the adjacent blue and a field of maroon. Lines of
green, orange, yellow, and white often appear in the body of the rug;
lines of dark blue and a checkered pattern in red and blue are frequent
in the red webs of the ends.
Though these rugs are, as a rule, heavier and coarser in texture than
most other Turkoman rugs, the old pieces have a soft plushy nap of fine
wool and goat’s fleece, as well as richness of tone, that is very
attractive. They are exceedingly durable and moderate in price.
_Type Characteristics._ _Colours_, principally dark red and mahogany
brown, with minor quantities of blue, green, yellow, and white. _Knot_,
generally Sehna, occasionally Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally five
to eight; perpendicularly, seven to ten. The rows of knots are pressed
down, so that the warp is largely concealed at back. _Warp_, coarse wool
or goat’s hair; each thread encircled by a knot is equally prominent at
back, or one is slightly depressed below the other. _Weft_, wool, of
medium diameter, or occasionally wool mixed with goat’s hair. A thread
of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots. _Pile_, wool, of
medium length. _Border_, three stripes. _Sides_, a goat’s hair double
selvage of three or four cords. _Both ends_, a broad web of reddish
brown colour through which run several narrow lines or several narrow
stripes, and a long fringe. _Texture_, stout. _Weave_ at back is
moderately coarse. _Usual length_, five to twelve feet. _Usual width_,
two thirds to three quarters length.
SAMARKANDS.—A little over one hundred miles east of Bokhara, and on the
southern border of the desert of Red Sands, the river Zarafshan,
“Strewer of Gold,” has turned a plain of yellow loam into an oasis.
Forty-three large canals bring its waters to fields of cotton; to
vineyards; to orchards of apple, pear, peach, and pomegranate; and to
gardens of fragrant flowers. Here is Samarkand, “The Mirror of the
World.” Few cities as old remain after passing through so many
vicissitudes of fortune. Alexander forced his way through its gates, the
Chinese Empire annexed it, and finally Tamerlane seized and made it the
magnificent capital of one third of the known world. His tomb and other
remaining monuments attest the grandeur of that time when there was
fostered here the art, the luxury, and the splendour of the East.
The rugs known as Samarkands are woven in a district somewhat eastward
from the city and are often called “Malgarans.” They are not to be
compared with the magnificent carpets that adorned the palaces and
mosques of the capital of Tamerlane; yet they possess a special
interest, as in them are combined features derived from both Eastern and
Western Asia. Either because this city, known as Samo-Kien, was once
part of the Chinese Empire, or as is more probable, because it is on one
of the great highways of caravan travel between China and Western Asia,
the Chinese element is particularly noticeable. It appears in the
colours that are in strong contrast; in the general pattern that shows
little affinity for those of Persian or West Asian rugs; and even in the
weave, in which silk is occasionally mixed with the wool of both warp
and pile.
The ground colour of the field is usually some shade of red or madder,
with blue and yellow appearing conspicuously in the principal designs
and border stripes. Or again, the field may be blue, soft brown, gray,
or tan, with which the colours of the designs and borders, that may
contain red, yellow, and blue, invariably appear in strong contrast.
Few rugs have a more noticeable pattern, which consists principally of
rounded medallions. If there be but one, it is in the centre; and if
there be many, one is at each corner. They are usually ornamented with
Chinese scrolls or some geometric design, as an eight-pointed star; but
dragons, birds, or fishes are not uncommon. Occasionally, also, flowers
of Persian design, with eight rounded petals, appear in the medallion,
and others of larger size cover the field; or they may even exclude the
medallion and constitute the principal motive. Some simple design in
fretwork gives finish to the corners of the field, which is further
covered with Chinese butterflies, scrolls, or archaic flower forms. The
borders are equally distinctive, and unlike those of Chinese rugs are
relatively wide and consist of several stripes surrounded by an edging
of uniform colour. One of the stripes has generally a stiffly undulating
vine; another a continuous swastika design; and a third is marked with
frets, the barber-pole design, or a design which by some is regarded as
the sacred Chinese mountain rising from the waves. In most pieces warp
and weft are loosely woven, and the pile is of a medium grade of wool;
but in very old pieces the wool is fine and lustrous.
_Type Characteristics._ _Colours_, principally red, blue, and yellow.
_Knot_, Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally six to eight; perpendicularly,
five to eight. Each half knot, as it appears at back, is as long as, or
longer than, wide. The rows of knots are not firmly pressed down, so
that the warp shows at back. _Warp_, generally cotton, occasionally
wool; one of the two threads encircled by a knot is doubled under the
other. _Weft_, generally cotton, occasionally wool, of coarse diameter
and frequently dyed. A thread of weft crosses twice, between every two
rows of knots, and occasionally three times. _Pile_, wool, of medium
length. _Border_, three stripes with a pink edging. _Sides_, a red or
pink overcasting. _Lower end_, web and warp loops. _Upper end_, web and
warp fringe. _Texture_, moderately firm. _Weave_ at back, rather coarse.
_Length_, six to fourteen feet. _Usual width_, one half to three fifths
length.
KASHGARS AND YARKANDS.—Among the foothill plains at the western end of
the Chinese Empire, are the mud-walled cities of Kashgar and Yarkand,
that were ancient even in the days when Marco Polo visited there.
Situated in populous and fertile districts, each has been a city of
political and industrial importance; but on account of the great divides
that separate them from Western Turkestan, Persia, and India, their
commerce has been principally with Thibet and China. Thus it has
happened that only within recent years have any of their textile fabrics
reached Europe and America, where they are still almost unknown. Yet
even in the remote past, these cities gained a reputation for the
culture of silk and the weaving of carpets. Moreover, at different
periods they were centres of luxury, so that it may safely be assumed
that many of their woven products were of a high order of excellence.
These rugs, to be sure, come from a district lying within the Chinese
Empire; but it is so remote from the centres where the well-known
Chinese rugs have been and are woven, and is so much nearer to West
Turkestan and Afghanistan, that it seems best to place them in the
Central Asiatic group.
As a rule, such pieces as reach this country show crude workmanship
entirely lacking in graceful floral patterns or artistic drawing.
Octagonal forms, animals, and even mythical creatures are often
distributed over the fields so as to give them a decidedly Chinese
character. The narrow border stripes ornamented with the swastika and
fret forms are often similar to some of the Samarkand stripes. The
colours, which lack the subdued richness of Persian pieces, are often
light; but they occasionally consist largely of tones of dark blue and
red which show Turkoman influences. Most of these rugs are interesting
on account of their quaintness and individuality; but few compare in
quality of material, weave, or artistic finish with other classes of
this group.
BELUCHES OR BELUCHISTANS.—“When creating the world, the Almighty made
Beluchistan out of the refuse” are the words of an old proverb, that
refers to a land which formerly produced some of the most interesting
rugs of the East. In fact, the thought is not surprising when the
desolate character of the country is considered; for a sandy, waterless
waste stretches over the greater part, and only in a corner to the
northeast and in narrow strips, where streams from mountain sides water
small valleys, is any cultivation. Across this sparsely settled land and
farther westward into the southeastern part of Persia, untamed tribes of
Beluches and Brahoes wander with their sheep, goats, and large numbers
of camels. Their rugs, woven on crudely made looms, bear little
resemblance to the more artistic floral pieces of the Indian weavers to
the east or to those of Kirman to the west. Nor are they closely related
to the Turkoman rugs with which they are usually grouped. In fact, they
possess an individuality that once recognised is never forgotten; an
individuality due to the isolated condition of a country that is
protected from its nearest neighbours by barriers of deserts and
mountain ridges, and is possessed by a still unconquered people. To
these circumstances, also, it is due that the rugs are rarely coloured
with aniline dyes, though many modern pieces have been chemically washed
by dealers.
[Illustration: PLATE 56. YOMUD RUG]
One of the most distinguishing features of Beluchistans are their tones
of colour, that rarely depart from traditional usage. They are
principally a red of the shade of madder, a blue with purple cast, and a
dark brown that has sometimes a slight olive tinge, particularly when
appearing in the webs. Frequently, too, dull tones of green are seen.
Contrasting with these more subdued ground colours is almost invariably
some ivory which appears as small detached figures in part of the
border, or as outlines of principal designs. The patterns also show
individuality and diversity. Most frequently they are geometric and
represent some ill defined octagons suggesting Turkoman rugs. Or they
may consist of a field covered with diagonal bands, with large lozenges,
or medallions, all of which are decorated profusely with latch-hooks.
Still others have some crudely drawn flower design, as the Mina Khani,
that tells of Persian influences.
A fair proportion have the prayer pattern, consisting of a large
rectangular shaped mihrab, which is as high as, and frequently higher
than, wide. The borders, as a rule, consist of three or four stripes.
The main stripe is geometric and in the guard stripes are running
latch-hooks or the reciprocal trefoil, though occasionally they are
replaced by some conventionalised vine or ribbon pattern.
Proportionally to their length few other rugs have such long webs at the
end, though they are sometimes entirely worn away while the body of the
rug is still serviceable. They are usually coloured in harmony with the
colours of the field, and are marked with embroidered lines or simple
designs. No other rugs have a surface with more lustrous sheen, due to
the soft, fine wool of the pile, which in old pieces is short and
closely woven, giving a play of colours, and velvety appearance
unsurpassed by any other nomadic rugs. Many of the choicest pieces of
Beluchistan weave now on the market are the small saddle bags, that are
of rich yet subdued colours, and possess the character and sheen of very
old rugs.
_Type Characteristics._ _Colours_, principally red, blue, and brown,
with minor quantities of white. _Knot_, Sehna. Knots to inch
horizontally six to nine; perpendicularly, seven to ten. The rows of
knots are usually pressed down, so that the warp does not show at back.
_Warp_, wool; each of the two threads encircled by a knot is equally
prominent at back, or one is slightly depressed below the other. _Weft_,
of coarse, wiry wool, of medium diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice
between every two rows of knots. _Pile_, wool, and occasionally camel’s
hair, of medium length. _Border_, three stripes. _Sides_, a heavy goat’s
hair selvage of three or four cords. _Both ends_, a broad embroidered
web with warp fringe. _Texture_, slightly loose. _Weave_ at back is
moderately coarse. _Usual length_, four and one half to six feet. _Usual
width_, two thirds to three quarters length.
BORDER STRIPES
The border stripes of the Central Asiatic group are even more geometric
than the Caucasian; for it is rarely that any floral forms are seen in
them, though they may appear in the pile that extends beyond the borders
of the ends. Even the vines are so angular as almost to lose their
identity. Octagonal figures, stars, frets, and latch-hooks are common.
In fact, the group as a whole, shows the influence of the Caucasian and
Chinese groups more than the Persian.
PRIMARY STRIPES
The stripe shown in Plate L, Fig. 1 (opp. Page 250) is one of many found
in the rugs known as Royal Bokharas. The eight-pointed stars, as well as
the small tent-like designs, which may have been derived from the
headstalls of horses, are almost always found in it.
A well-known stripe of Princess Bokharas corresponding with the pattern
of the field, appears in Plate L, Fig. 2. It represents a continuous
series of designs shaped like a Y, that were doubtless derived from
forms of trees. More frequently the stripe (Fig. 3) of broad, serrated
diagonal lines, that originally may have been intended to represent
foliage, is seen.
Another stripe found in Princess Bokharas and also in Tekkes and Khivas
is shown in Plate L, Fig. 4. It forcibly suggests the Chinese fret.
Sometimes it is used as a primary but more frequently as a secondary
stripe.
In Plate L, Fig. 5, is a stripe frequently seen in Tekkes, which is
interesting on account of the eight-pointed stars and latch-hooks
similar to those of Caucasian rugs. Without doubt this is only one of
the many instances illustrating the migration of designs.
Plate L, Fig. 6 represents a stripe peculiar to Yomuds. The running vine
is most mechanically drawn and fringed with latch-hooks, which are a
constant feature of this class.
Another Yomud stripe with vine in which serrations take the place of
latch-hooks is shown in Plate L, Fig. 7. Pendent from the vine are other
hooks shaped like frets.
Very similar to an old Caucasian stripe is the one represented in Plate
L, Fig. 8; but in this stripe the small designs are drawn so that the
proportion of length to width is greater; and it is probable that they
were copied from a wreath of leaves. This stripe is very commonly seen
in Beluchistans.
[Illustration: PLATE L. PRIMARY AND SECONDARY BORDER-STRIPES OF CENTRAL
ASIATIC RUGS]
Plate L, Fig. 9 represents a mechanically drawn vine found in Beshires.
Well-known Afghan stripes are shown in Plate L, Figs. 10 and 11.
In Plate L, Figs. 12 and 13 are two of the most typical and interesting
stripes of Samarkands and Yarkands. The first is supposed to represent
the sacred mountain of Chinese lore rising out of the waves. The second
is a vine with leaves and flowers, which suggest Persian influences.
A stripe with simple archaic pattern peculiar to Yarkands is seen in
Plate L, Fig. 14.
SECONDARY STRIPES
In Plate L, Fig. 15 (opp. Page 250), is a well-known form of a secondary
stripe found in Royal Bokharas.
A stripe seen in both Princess Bokharas and Tekkes is shown in Plate L,
Fig. 16. It bears a slight resemblance to some conventionalised vines
found in other groups.
Stripes of running latch-hooks (Plate K, Fig. 20, opp. Page 230) are
frequently found in Yomuds, and occasionally in Beluchistans.
In Beluchistans the reciprocal trefoils, so well-known in Caucasian and
Persian rugs, are very frequently used.
The pattern of a double vine, illustrated in Plate L, Fig. 17, is a
Beshire stripe that suggests a Persian influence.
In Plate L, Fig. 18, is the narrow pear stripe that appears in a very
large number of Afghans and in some Khivas.
Two well-known stripes that belong to Samarkands are shown in Plate L,
Figs. 19 and 20. The pattern of the conventionalised vine speaks of
Persian origin, and the swastikas suggest Chinese origin.
In Tekkes, Yomuds, Afghans, and Beluchistans the small barber-pole
stripes are constantly employed.
TECHNICALITIES IN THE WEAVE OF CENTRAL ASIATIC RUGS
Legend:
KNOT—
H = Horizontally
P = Perpendicularly
WARP—
g = goat’s hair
e = each equally prominent
d = 1 to the knot depressed
h = 1 to the knot doubled under
WEFT—
g = goat’s hair
No. = No. times crossing bet. two round knots
SIDES—
O = overcasting
S = selvage
LOWER END
W = web
S = Selvage
K = Rows knots
L = warp loops
F = fringe
UPPER END
W = web
S = selvage
K = Rows knots
T = turned back and hemmed
F = fringe
┌────────────┬────────────────────────────┬──────────────────────────────┐
│ │ KNOT │ WARP │
│ ├─────────┬──────┬───────────┼─────┬───────┬────┬───────────┤
│ CENTRAL │ │ │ Number to │ │ │ │ At back │
│ ASIATIC │ │ │ Inches │ │ │ │ │
│ │ G = │ S = ├─────┬─────┤ w =│ c = │ ├───┬───┬───┤
│ │ Ghiordes│ Sehna│ H │ P │ wool│ cotton│ s/l│ e │ d │ h │
├────────────┼─────────┼──────┼─────┼─────┼─────┼───────┼────┼───┼───┼───┤
│Afghan │ G │ S │ 5-8 │ 7-10│ w │ │[g] │ e │ d │ │
│Beluchistan │ │ S │ 6-9 │ 7-10│ w │ │[g] │ e │ d │ │
│Beshire │ │ S │ 6-9 │ 8-11│ [w] │ [c] │ g │ e │[d]│ │
│Princess │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │
│ Bokhara │ │ S │ 8-12│16-24│ w │ │ │ e │[d]│ │
│Royal │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │
│ Bokhara │ │ S │ 8-12│14-18│ w │ │[g] │ e │ │ │
│Tekke │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │
│ Bokhara │ │ S │ 7-12│ 9-14│ w │ │[g] │ │ d │ │
│Khiva │ G │ S │ 6-10│ 8-14│ w │ │[g] │ e │ │ │
│Samarkand │ │ S │ 6-8 │ 5-8 │ [w] │ c │ │ │ │ h │
│Yomud │ [G] │ S │ 7-12│ 9-17│ w │ │ g │ e │[d]│ │
└────────────┴─────────┴──────┴─────┴─────┴─────┴───────┴────┴───┴───┴───┘
┌────────────┬──────────────────────────┬───────┬─────────────────┐
│ │ WEFT │ SIDES │ LOWER END │
│ ├─────┬───────┬────┬───────┼───┬───┼─────┬───┬───┬───┤
│ CENTRAL │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │
│ ASIATIC │ w = │ c = │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │
│ │wool │ cotton│ g │ No. │ O │ S │ W/S │ K │ L │ F │
├────────────┼─────┼───────┼────┼───────┼───┼───┼─────┼───┼───┼───┤
│Afghan │ w │ │ │ 2 │ │ S │ W │ │ │ F │
│Beluchistan │ w │ │ │ 2 │ │ S │ W │ │ │ F │
│Beshire │ [w] │ [c] │ g │ 2/[1] │ │ S │ W │ │ │ F │
│Princess │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │
│ Bokhara │ w │ │ │ 2 │ O │ │ W │ │ │ F │
│Royal │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │
│ Bokhara │ w │ │ │ 2 │ O │[S]│ W │ │ │ F │
│Tekke │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │
│ Bokhara │ w │ │ │ 2 │ │ S │ W │ │ │ F │
│Khiva │ w │ │ │ 2 │ │ S │ W │ K │ │ F │
│Samarkand │ [w] │ c │ │ 2 │ O │ │ W │ │ L │ │
│Yomud │ w │ │ │ 2 │ │ S │ W │ │ │ F │
└────────────┴─────┴───────┴────┴───────┴───┴───┴─────┴───┴───┴───┘
┌────────────┬─────────────────┬───────────┬───────────┬──────────┐
│ │ UPPER END │ NAP │ WEAVE │ TEXTURE │
│ ├─────┬───┬───┬───┼───────────┼───────────┼──────────┤
│ CENTRAL │ │ │ │ │l = long │f = fine │l = loose │
│ ASIATIC │ │ │ │ │m = medium │m = medium │m = medium│
│ │ W/S │ K │ T │ F │s = short │c = coarse │f = firm │
├────────────┼─────┼───┼───┼───┼───────────┼───────────┼──────────┤
│Afghan │ W │ │ │ F │ m │ m/c │ f │
│Beluchistan │ W │ │ │ F │ m │ c │ m/l │
│Beshire │ W │ │ │ F │ m │ c │ f │
│Princess │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │
│ Bokhara │ W │ │ │ F │ s │ f │ f │
│Royal │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │
│ Bokhara │ W │ │ │ F │ m/s │ m/s │ f │
│Tekke │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │
│ Bokhara │ W │ │[T]│ F │ m/s │ m/f │ f │
│Khiva │ W │ │ │ F │ m │ m │ f │
│Samarkand │ W │ │ │ F │ m │ c │ m │
│Yomud │ W │ │ │ F │ m │ m/c │ f │
└────────────┴─────┴───┴───┴───┴───────────┴───────────┴──────────┘
[] indicates the less frequent condition.