Journey from How to Mulkukuyu, general direction south-west, time
marching, four hours and a-half.—Forest on right bank of Hawash.—The
ford of Mulkukuyu.—Passage of the river.—Congratulations.—Scorpion
hunting.—Visit the Hippopotamus lake.—Journey from Mulkukuyu to
Azbotee, general direction west, time marching, five hours and
a-half.—Lee Adu.—Change in character of the country.—View of the
table-land of Abyssinia.—The so-called Abyssinian Alps.—Reflections.
_May 20th._—Being nearly the first on the line of march, as we were the
morning before, we again started from our halting-place some hours
before sunrise, and after descending the precipitous side of the ridge
of Billin or How, we entered upon an extensive and densely-wooded
country to the west. For the first few miles, the march was across a
very stony district, the mimosa-trees were low and ragged-looking, and
not growing so closely together as we found them to do as we advanced.
After proceeding some little distance, four ostriches, of a light-brown
or stone colour, trotted away on our approach. The long thick legs
seemed large in proportion to the body of the bird, and gave me the idea
of a light frame, suspended upon two powerful spring propellers. The
progress of the two hind legs of a trotting horse, separated from the
rest of the body, if it can be imagined, will represent the gait of
these birds when running. Another novelty to me, was a large mass of
elephants’ dung, that, like a large Stilton cheese, was carried on the
shoulder of one of the Hy Soumaulee, who brought it on purpose for me to
see, and who claimed a present accordingly for his trouble. I had also
given to me on this march, a lump of soft fresh gum-arabic, nearly a
pound in weight, and of most agreeable flavour. It reminded me in taste
of a green ear of corn.
I had ridden so far on my mule, but was now glad to dismount, as the
trees began to be very numerous and troublesome, for as they were
without exception, the long-thorned mimosa, my hat was continually being
snatched off my head, or my Arab frock torn from my shoulders. There was
some danger, too, to my eyes, for I stood a very great chance of having
them severely injured by the sudden return of the armed boughs, dragged
forward in the first instance by the shouldered spear of the individual
who preceded me, as he carelessly pushed his way among the trees. Our
path was a very monotonous one, something like travelling through a
close wood in England. The shade was agreeable enough, and we certainly
did come sometimes to open spots, where a little greensward refreshed
the foot by its softness.
After walking nearly three hours, the number of my informants, crying
out, “There is the Hawash! there is the Hawash!” increasing as we
advanced, we came, greatly to my surprise after all that had been told
me, very suddenly upon the edge of the low bank, which overhung the
much-talked-of, long-wished-for river. A few moments before we came in
sight of the stream, I noticed that Ohmed Medina was repeating a short
prayer of thanks, for having reached it in safety, in which I heartily
joined, and then lifting up my head, the yellow water of the Hawash was
the first object I saw. My escort, and others of the Kafilah, had, at
some distance, begun to race with one another to get down first, so that
when we came, thirty or forty of them were already swimming about in the
stream. Some confusion, and a good laugh was occasioned at the hurry of
this bathing party to get out, when, by a few shouts, and waving our
hands, Ohmed Medina intimated that it was my intention to celebrate our
arrival in true Arab style, by firing off my pistols and carabine. This
ceremony being duly performed, each report followed by a loud shout, I
and three or four others sat, sheltered from the sun, under the bank
close to the water’s edge, until the camels should come up. When I had
ceased firing, the swimmers resumed their bath; though frequently
invited, I did not choose to exhibit my white skin in all its unrobed
singularity, to the critical remarks of a lot of black Dankalli.
We sat waiting for the camels above an hour, which I occupied in taking
a good survey of the little reach before us, and in getting some
information relative to the general character and course of the river.
Its channel is a mere cut, or canal about fifteen feet deep and thirty
yards broad, in the alluvial plane which extends some miles on either
side. The water itself, at this period of the year, was only from two to
three feet in depth; and in many places, large stones showed their
summits above the surface. A fringe of various kinds of trees hung over
from the banks on either side, and each extremity of that portion of the
river I saw, seemed to be lost among their drooping, dark green foliage.
The first camel that came up, made a terrible mess of it, for he tumbled
down the short, but steep bank, and occasioned such a dust I thought
some explosion must have taken place. After this accident we thought it
best to get out of the way, and accordingly forded the stream. My mule,
who knew where she was as well as any of us, came cantering up with the
first string of camels, and being a thirsty kind of a body was not long
in letting herself carefully down the slope. I caught her easily as she
stooped her head to drink, and made her carry me across, for as the ford
took a long diagonal direction and the bottom abounded with stones, I
did not choose to hazard my bare feet among them. The opposite bank was
of exactly the same character as the one we had just before left, and my
mule having surmounted it by a few snatching, tear-away steps, I
dismounted and got under the shade of a large tree, from whence I could
have a good view of the passage of the Kafilah.
The camels crossed without any other accident, and immediately I had
seen the last of the stores over I followed Ohmed Mahomed, who had
previously come up to congratulate me on being in the dominions of
Sahale Selassee, king of Shoa.
We went about half a mile farther towards the west before we came to the
halting-place for the day, which was called Mulkukuyu, from the passage
at this place over the Hawash; _melka_, or _mulku_, in the language of
the Galla, signifying a ford.
Here I found a sudden change from the well-wooded character of the other
side, for although high trees and a considerable jungle existed, we all
at once halted in a lava-abounding country; low ridges, and steep,
conical, crater-like hills being visible in whatever direction we
turned. Still, these were all well moulded up to their bases, and
numerous broad impressions of the feet of the heavy elephant, deeply
indented the rich and fertile soil.
I was congratulating myself so entirely all the day at having reached
the other side of the Hawash, that I made but very few other
observations upon the surrounding country. Towards evening Ohmed Medina,
with his usual anxiety for me to see as much as I could, brought four or
five Hy Soumaulee to go with him and me to the shores of a large lake in
the immediate neighbourhood. I found it to be an irregular and very
circumscribed depression among some low flat-topped hills, and
communicating by a deeply-cut but narrow channel, with the river. This
was now however, quite dry, and the waters of the lake appeared to be
much lower than the level of the Hawash. Lofty trees, many of them quite
new to me, grew close down to the water’s edge. Beneath them were some
white pelicans, with their heads and long beaks resting upon their
craws, that seemed to be idly ruminating upon their last meal of fish.
The smooth surface of the lake at intervals, was frequently disturbed by
the cautiously protruded face and nostrils of a bulky hippopotamus,
which, snorting with a deeply-drawn breath, would prepare for his
gambolling plunge again to the bottom. I fired several times, but
without success, although my companions were satisfied themselves that
some were killed, because the noise of the report, and perhaps the soft
harmless tap of a leaden bullet, induced the animals to remove
themselves farther off, or to keep altogether out of sight below the
surface, as on occasions of emergency they can remain for a long period
at the bottom without a fresh supply of air. I looked out for
crocodiles, many of which, other travellers reported were to be seen in
this lake. I do not question the correctness of these observations
because I did not happen to see one myself. Many of my companions
appeared to be familiar with the sight of them, for among other
astonishing beasts I was to see at the Hawash was one, they told me,
something like a lizard, which they used to represent by joining the two
elbows together, and then opening wide the hands and fore arms,
intimated what an extent of mouth this animal had. Traces of hyænas, and
of some large feline animal, were repeatedly seen, and although I saw no
elephants in this place, their sharp trumpet cry was heard throughout
the next night.
On idly turning over some stones, to see the greatest number of
scorpions I could find in one family, I came upon a large black
centipede, curled up in the usual manner of these reptiles when they are
exposed. Stooping to examine it more closely, Ohmed Medina and others,
who had seen me without remark amusing myself with the scorpions now
cried out that this would kill me, and some got up from the ground to
pull me away, for they supposed I was going to take hold of it. Turning
up my face with a peculiar look, as if to ask them if they thought me
such a goose, I said in English inquiringly, “Bite like devil?” to which
Ohmed Medina, in a tone of the most decided affirmation, made me laugh
by repeating my words like an echo, “Bite like devil!” accompanied with
repeated nods of the head so appropriately, that he appeared fully to
understand the import of the words he used.
We loitered along the stony banks of the lake until long after the moon
had risen, in the vain hope that the hippopotami would come out to
graze, as is usual with them during the night. This, however, they were
prevented doing, being alarmed by loud laughter and the clapping of
hands which proceeded from our camp, for the younger people of the
Kafilah were amusing themselves with dancing to celebrate their safe
passage over the Hawash. The unusual noise confined the unwieldy beasts
to their watery home, although the frequent rough snort, and the ripple
which followed their return to the bottom of the lake, were evidences of
the interest with which they watched for the termination of the
boisterous sounds that, so unaccountably to them, broke upon the
stillness of night, and usurped with whooping yells the usual retreats
of solitude and silence.
A sympathetic feeling we shared with the hungry animals occasioned us to
return to camp, where Zaido excused himself for having nothing ready to
eat, save some sun-dried strips of raw meat, by telling me that he had
been occupied the whole evening with washing his tobe and that of Ohmed
Mahomed. To interest me more in the excuse, he entered into the details
of some great curiosity in the water way, which he described as lying
more to the west than the lake I had just been visiting. This he
asserted to be a natural reservoir of soap and water, and as evidence of
its cleansing qualities, pointed to the dancers and to others more
tranquil, who had lain down for the night, and I could perceive by the
light of the moon a great improvement in the appearance of their tobes,
the whiteness of which was really remarkable, considering the state of
dirt and grease I had seen them in during the morning. As this water was
also said to be undrinkable, and had a very bad smell, I concluded it to
be some mineral water, and determined to visit it the next morning.
A lucifer match and a few dry sticks soon produced a crackling blaze,
upon which was thrown a yard or two of the meat rope, that was quickly
cooked and as speedily disappeared, and as soon as the dinner things
were carried away, and the cloth removed, I joined in the festive
revelries, taking part in turns both in the opera and ballet. A spirit
of merriment seemed to be abroad, and I saw no reason why I should not
join the rest, so picked up an old gourd-shell bottle, sat myself down
on the top of my hut, and contributed to the music by thumping a
hollow-sounding tune out of the bottom of this primitive tambourine. The
dancing circle in front redoubled their efforts, shrieking, laughing,
yelling, clapping hands, and hopping on alternate legs around a central
figure, who, with body and head now bent forwards, now thrown backwards,
slowly pirouetted in a direction contrary to that of the others, whilst
with equal vigour, he plied his open hands. Thus they danced, thus I and
others played; and when tired, I threw down my musical instrument, Allee
and another struggled for the direction of the band, and I left the
former far outshining me both in vivacity and dexterity of touch,
although he managed luckily for my repose, very soon to knock out the
bottom of the gourd, and thus gave the signal for the party to break up.
_May 21st._—We started by sunrise this morning, the principal Wahama
Kafilah alone accompanying us; the remainder, belonging to the different
tribes, determined to remain at Mulkukuyu another day. About half a mile
from our halting-place, we marched along the border of the washing lake,
and I turned aside, with some of the Kafilah people, to examine it.
A few minutes’ walk satisfied me that it occupied the basin-like
depression of one of a number of low extinct craters, among which we had
just been moving. A descent of a few yards, took me to the edge of the
water, which, as I expected, was of a mineral character, having an
alkaline taste, and slightly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas,
detected by its smell. The lake was nearly circular; but its diameter
was not one hundred yards in length. Its surface presented a green
appearance, not occasioned, as I could perceive, by any subaqueous
vegetation; and the water, when taken out, was colourless, and very
clear.
Our road was sometimes over a black soil of decomposing vegetable
matter, beneath high shady trees, among which myriads of a small
chattering bird about the size of a sparrow, sent up one continual din,
that, in some situations, put talking to each other as we passed, quite
out of the question. Many of the trees had been deprived of all their
lower branches by the elephant, which, on making a meal, tears down with
his trunk one of these large limbs, and eats at his leisure the younger
shoots and leaves. Some of those I saw thus pulled down, were from a
height of at least twelve or fifteen feet from the ground, and were
frequently more than six inches in diameter. A striking contrast between
two very different agents in thus bringing large trees to the earth, was
afforded by the juxtaposition of the overturned trunks of others, among
and underneath whose roots, the many-turretted residence of the white
ant had been constructed; the effect of which was, that very soon after
these insects had so located themselves, the slightest breeze would
occasion the downfall of the tree, and trunks thus fallen, and those
dragged down by the elephant, lie side by side. Sometimes in this
manner, little savannahs or open spots of green growing grass are
formed, where the rays of the sun are thus enabled to penetrate the
otherwise dense gloom of the few miles of forest that exists along the
western bank of the Hawash.
Our road was one formed entirely by elephants in their wanderings
backwards and forwards from the river to the extensive lake of Lee Adu,
or Whitewater, situated about eight miles to the west of the Hawash, at
the ford of Mulkukuyu. We arrived at Lee Adu in three hours, and halted
a short time for the camels and mules to drink; we then proceeded again
for two hours more, when we reached the commencement of a large
undulating plain, called Azbotee, from where we had the first full and
splendid view of the high table-land of Shoa, and the numerous small
hills and valleys which occupy the long sloping talus from the edge of
the elevated plateau in the distance, to the low level district in the
neighbourhood where we were.
At Lee Adu, Ohmed Medina, Adam Burrah, Moosa, and myself, bathed in a
retired corner of this broad sheet of water. Large fields of high reeds
and rushes bordered it for some distance around us, and the broad-leaved
lotus, with its white, cup-like flowers, covered the surface. Many a
splashing duck, and diving waterfowl, scared by us now left their
previously quiet retreat. The white ibis flew to the opposite side of
the lake, whilst screaming jays of many-coloured plumage passed over our
heads, seeking some home more retired than the disturbed wood, through
which our camels were then passing.
On our road to Azbotee, I observed that the country to the west of Lee
Adu, assumes a very different aspect to that in the opposite direction,
towards the Hawash. The neighbourhood of the lake marks the commencement
of a more open district, very much resembling the plains of Southern
Africa, being devoid of trees, and a not very thick jungle of low bushes
and shrubs, admitting a clear view over them. Among other plants in this
situation, I noticed immense quantities of the Socotrine aloe plant,
with its long variegated fleshy leaves, whip-like flower stalk, and
bright orange-coloured corollas depending like small bells from its
summit.
At Azbotee, the country to the north and east is marked by several
volcanic craters, of some elevation; and a ridge occupies the tract we
had just passed over, of slight elevation certainly, but sufficient to
shut out from sight the opposite slope to the Hawash, except in the
immediate neighbourhood of Lee Adu, which extends to the left, or south,
where its waters still were seen gleaming through the tall trees,
growing upon its banks. Before us were clumps of mimosa-trees, at first
“few and far between,” that prepared us gradually for a thickly-wooded
belt, that could be perceived at the bottom of the gentle slope from
Azbotee to Kokki, and which marked the channel of a stream flowing to
the south and east, probably into Lee Adu. Beyond, was the valley of
Kokki, so called from the number of guinea-fowl found there. A
succession of low hills, gradually increasing in elevation, now leads
the eye towards the north-west until it rests upon the town of Farree,
which, plainly visible, occupies the summits of some hills, that
overtopped the intervening heights, and is distant about fifteen miles
from Azbotee, in a straight line.
In the neighbourhood of Farree, coronets of smoke surmounting many a
hilltop, told of villages and human life, and dotted with small white
clouds the amphitheatre behind.
Ohmed Medina, with an obliging interest in my being amused, pointed out
the situation of succeeding towns, to the distant centre of the highest
ridge, where he placed Ankobar, the capital of Shoa; whilst Ohmed
Mahomed and Ebin Izaak, with the same instinctive participation in the
pleasure I felt, as a stranger, upon first witnessing the splendid
prospect that lay before me, assisted in explaining the natural
panorama; the former sitting upon the half-detached branch of an
elephant-torn mimosa, under which we were standing, and Ebin Izaak, with
outstretched hand, the other resting on my shoulder, followed the
direction of Ohmed Medina’s spear, to aid me in letting fall my
observation upon the exact spot, by directing me to look at white
patches of smoke, to the dark shadow of a cloud, to red-coloured earth,
or to anything of a prominent character, by which I could distinguish
each locality as it was named by Ohmed Medina. Thus was my eye
conducted, and thus my view travelled, until the diminishing effects of
distance gradually confounded particulars, and the strained sight was
glad to find a bound to farther vision in the nearly level line,
encroaching upon the sky, that characterizes the bluff termination to
the east of the table-land of Abyssinia. All the time I was thus
occupied, it never occurred to me, that this long slope of about thirty
miles, and rising gradually from the elevation of two thousand feet to
that of nine thousand feet above the level of the sea, that this
gently-inclined plane covered with thousands of little hills, and as
many little valleys, was the district of the so-called Abyssinian Alps.
Of course, I had quite a different idea of such a character of country,
which required, I thought, the high, towering, romantic rocks of
mountain limestone, or of granite, that form the chief features of the
Alps of Switzerland, or the equally wild scenery of the mountains of
Sweden and Norway. I expected that I had yet to travel a long, long
distance to obtain a view of those, which I supposed to be stupendous
hills, and never dreamt that such a sacrifice of truth for effect could
be made, or such an erroneous judgment formed, as to call these little
eminences the Abyssinian Alps. It is ridiculous so to name a succession
of low, denuded hills; the top of almost every one of them being the
perching-place of a little hamlet or town, whilst their sides are most
beautifully cultivated to their very summits, and exhibit, on the lower
portions of the inclined plane, fields of cotton, of teff, or of maize;
whilst the ascent, on the journey to Shoa, admits of wheat, barley, and
linseed being produced. Little rivulets, whose constant course have
deepened their channels into valleys, and formed these hills out of the
once level slope, trickle down until, by combining, they form streams
which sometimes do, and sometimes do not, reach the Hawash. This river
is, in fact, entirely formed of the waters of this slope, which is the
prominent feature of the intermediate country between its stream and the
terminating edge of the table-land above. A concluding remark upon this
subject is, that it would be difficult to find one of these Abyssinian
Alps that, from its own base, independent of its position upon the
slope, would measure seven hundred feet high.
I sat with my companions some time, asking and receiving information,
now the more interesting, from the vicinity I was in to the first stage,
as I considered it, of my contemplated African journey; and where I had
purposed to myself a stay of some months, to prepare me for future
endeavours to penetrate farther into the continent. The change of
feeling too, on again becoming the denizen of a country where at least
social order was maintained, was exciting in its way, for I had learnt
to value civil rule as it ought to be, and I should have but little
hesitation in giving my vote, if the question were the extreme
absolutism of Shoa, or the equally extreme of liberty possessed by the
Dankalli tribes. For my part, I never thought myself so much of a slave
before, for I certainly felt grateful at having come scathless through
the country of the freest and most lawless set of men on the face of the
earth; and happy in getting to Shoa, where the first thing that happened
to me was being confined seven or eight days in a house, with a sentinel
over me, upon no other excuse but that my disposition and character
should be submitted to such testing ordeal. But I am anticipating. Of
this kind is the education a traveller gets, and I fully agree with de
Montbron, (the quotation appended to the first canto of Childe Harold,)
who, in his “Cosmopolite,” remarks:—
“L’univers est une espèce de livre dont on n’a lu que la première page,
quand on n’a vu que son pays. J’en ai feuilleté un assez grand nombre
que j’ai trouvé également mauvaises cet examen ne m’a point été
infructueux. Je haïssais ma patrie. Toutes les impertinences des peuples
divers, parmi lesquels j’ai vécu m’ont reconcilié avec elle. Quand je
n’aurais tiré d’autre bénéfice de mes voyages que celui-là je n’eu
regretterais ni les frais ne les fatigues.”
I looked upon the lovely scene so long, and felt so strongly my return
to civilized life, that, like a worthy friend of mine relating to me his
feelings on reaching the self-same spot, I could have found relief in a
good flow of tears, so sincere was my joy. Numerous residences of man
were in sight, snug straw-thatched hives they looked, but houses of any
sort were as old friends to me, and my heart rejoiced when I beheld
them. I always connect happiness with homes; and “smiling villages,” is
I am sure, one of those beautiful expressions of instinct we naturally
make when the full heart adds by reflection its own gladness to the
landscape.
On our return to the camp, I thought it necessary to make such change in
my garments as should add a little more of a civilized character to my
own appearance, to harmonize somewhat with the state of society, for
which I was going to exchange my present gipsey life. I accordingly got
out, during the night, the only shirt I had left of the number I had
reserved for the journey whilst in Tajourah; all of which, with this
exception, in the course of two or three weeks, had been worn, taken
off, and given to Zaido, in the vain hope of getting them washed; but
which, in every case, were obliged to be divided amongst the importunate
beggars who happened to be near at the moment. One would want one of the
skirts for his child, a second would want the other for his wife, then
the sleeves were found to be excellent dusters, with which the Dankalli
are perpetually cleaning and brightening up their shields, so that among
them all, every succeeding shirt was soon made old rags of, until I
found it equally convenient to go without as with one, and for the last
month of my journey my clothing was almost as scanty as my companions,
and had I parted with anything more, I should certainly have required
some of their clothes in return.
I now also exchanged my old Arab frock for a French blouse, donned a
clean pair of white trowsers, and the black silk handkerchief I had
previously worn round my waist was transferred to my neck. Having
finished my toilette, I again visited the rent mimosa-tree, taking with
me a small telescope, to assist me in examining places the names of
which were familiar, from having with me a part of the journal of the
Rev. Messrs. Isenberg and Krapf, on the occasion of their first visit to
Shoa by the Adal road.
I was now surrounded by crowds of the Kafilah people, several of whom
seizing the glass, as they could get it, took a moment’s peep, not
unfrequently with the closed eye, at the country before them; but all
vociferated “Whallah,” that what they had seen was most extraordinary.
A short interval of darkness before the moon rose occasioned us to
retire to the camp, but not long after her yellow light shed a rich
softness upon everything that could be seen, I found myself sitting
against the boxes that formed my hut, with my face turned towards the
promised land, which I anticipated was so fraught with opportunities of
enterprise, and of every circumstance favourable for exploring the
unknown countries of intra-tropical Africa.
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