[Illustration:
_C. Johnston dd. T. & E. Gilks, Lith^{rs.}_
MULKUKUYU FORD OVER THE HAWASH.
]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TRAVELS
IN
SOUTHERN ABYSSINIA,
THROUGH
THE COUNTRY OF ADAL
TO
THE KINGDOM OF SHOA.
BY
CHARLES JOHNSTON, M.R.C.S.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
LONDON:
J. MADDEN AND CO., LEADENHALL STREET.
M DCCC XLIV.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
MACINTOSH, PRINTER,
GREAT NEW STREET, LONDON.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TO
M^{R.} THOMAS JOHNSTON, OF BIRMINGHAM,
THESE VOLUMES
ARE AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED,
BY HIS SON.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
PREFACE.
----------
As a young Author I may be allowed to make a few introductory remarks,
for the purpose of propitiating that spirit of critical inquiry which
will probably be directed to the examination of these volumes.
To undertake this journey into Africa I resigned a valuable medical
appointment in the East, and voluntarily assumed the character of an
adventurer. My taste and prudence were questioned much at the time by my
friends. Whether the results of the ambition which prompted me to
endeavour to be of service to others are, or are not, sufficient reward
for the sacrifice I made, now depends upon the judgment of my reader.
In 1840 I held the appointment of Surgeon on board the iron armed
steamer Phlegethon, on secret service, but presumed to be bound for the
Eastern coast of Africa or India. I had long entertained the idea of
travelling in Africa, and determined to carry this into effect by
resigning at the end of the voyage out, and returning to England by a
road across that continent. Accordingly, whilst in London, I prepared in
some measure for the journey, by purchasing such instruments and outfit
that I thought would be necessary. I also waited upon Captain
Washington,[1] then Secretary of the Geographical Society, who entered
warmly into my views, and introduced me to Captains Trotter and Allen,
who were about to proceed upon the Niger expedition.
Footnote 1:
Now commanding the Blazer steam-vessel, R. N.
In May 1841 the Phlegethon reached Calcutta, and my respected Commander,
the late lamented R. F. Cleveland, Esq., R. N., aware of my intention to
travel, introduced me to several members of the Indian Government, who
afforded me every facility to enable me to enter Africa from the coast
opposite to Aden, and from whence a Political Mission, under Captain
Harris, was then on the eve of starting for the court of Shoa in
Abyssinia.
I beg particularly to acknowledge the interest that the
Governor-General, the Right Hon. the Earl of Auckland, took in my
proposed expedition, and also the kindness and attention I received from
T. Prinsep, Esq., First Member of the Council, and T. H. Maddock, Esq.,
Secretary to the Government. I take this opportunity also of expressing
to Capt. Haines, the political resident in Aden, my lively feelings of
respect and gratitude for kindnesses the most disinterested, and for
that assistance without which I could never have undertaken my
subsequent journey.
Of my reception in Abyssinia by Captain Harris, I speak elsewhere, but
the spirit with which my arrival was hailed may be supposed by the fact
that during the first evening I managed, according to the _notes of our
conversation_ taken by my very courteous entertainer, to assert a
falsehood, to which, however, when I became aware of the circumstance I
gave an unqualified contradiction, and so ended all friendly intercourse
until some months after, when a peace was negotiated through the
mediation of Capt. Graham.
The circumstances of this quarrel were most embarrassing to me, and
have, I believe, occasioned considerable indignation on the part of
those who had assisted me so far on my travels. Some respect, however, I
do owe to myself, and feeling annoyed at being the subject of unworthy
imputations, I have abstained from making any explanation whatever.
Circumstances already have, in a great measure, exonerated me. The
confidence of public men may be abused for a time, but it cannot long be
imposed upon.
Before laying down my pen, I must remark that I am not learned either in
the Arab or the Amharic tongues, and when I have ventured to insert a
few words from either language, it is to add some little to the scene,
not to lead any one to suppose that the smattering I picked up among the
natives is paraded in affectation of great oriental learning.
In the orthography of proper names, I have used English letters, I know
no other so well. Distrusting my _ear_ and _taste_, I referred to the
published works of three modern Abyssinian travellers, who affect to be
directed by a foreign standard of pronunciation. Finding them all to
disagree, I had no other resource but to fall back upon the despised
alphabet of my mother tongue.
Of my views upon the geography of Abyssinia, I am glad to observe, that
since I advocated them at the Royal Geographical Society’s Meetings,
culminating points and anticlinal axes have given way to the proper idea
of a table-land surrounded by a _rampart-like scarp_.
An earnest wish to be impressive, when I believe myself to be right, has
occasioned me sometimes to assume a tone of overweening confidence. For
this I ask to be excused; and in palliation for minor faults of
composition, must advance my long-continued ill-health, which has
prevented close application for the purposes of amending or correcting
the manuscript.
_London, June 1st, 1844._
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CONTENTS TO VOL. I.
----------
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
Arrival in Aden.—Preparations for my journey into 1
Africa.—Departure for Tajourah.—Stay in that
town.—Unsuccessful endeavours to proceed
farther.—Return to Aden
CHAPTER II.
Arrival at Berberah.—Description of the town and 18
fair.—Departure for Zeila.—The town of Zeila.—Second
visit to Tajourah.
CHAPTER III.
Reception in Tajourah.—Arrangements for our 36
stay.—Occupation.—Amusements.—Geological character of
the country.—Engaging camels for the journey.—Customs
of the townspeople.—Public buildings.—Religious
ceremonies, law, and justice.
CHAPTER IV.
Reception of visitors by the Sultaun of 61
Tajourah.—Arrival from Shoa of Demetrius and
Joannes.—Ruins and remains of antiquity.—Preparations
for our departure.—The day fixed for our start.
CHAPTER V.
Journey to Ambabboo.—Halt for the night.—Journey to 70
Dulhull.—Stay at Dulhull.
CHAPTER VI.
Staying at Dulhull.—Journey to Segallo.—Halt for the 89
night.—Journey to Daddahue.—Attack of the Bursane
subdivision of the Ad’alee tribe.—Halt for the night.
CHAPTER VII.
Leave Daddahue.—Journey through the Rah Issah to 107
Bulhatoo.—Halt for the night.—Journey to
Dafarrè.—From Dafarrè to Aleek’shatan.—Journey to
Alephanta.
CHAPTER VIII.
The Salt Lake.—Journey to Gunguntur.—Scene of the 126
murder of three soldiers of the British Mission in
1840.—Halt.—Journey to Allulee.—Attack of the Muditu
tribe.
CHAPTER IX.
Staying at Allulee.—Amusements.—More camels join our 148
Kafilah.—Introduced to Ohmed Medina.—Journey to
Gurguddee.—Halt for the night.—Murder of a
slave.—March to Khrabtu.—Proceed to Saggadarah.
CHAPTER X.
Journey from Saggadarah.—Reach Bellad Hy.—Halt.—Journey 166
to Ramudalee.—Halt to receive the visit of Lohitu,
Chief of the Debenee tribe.
CHAPTER XI.
Stay at Ramudalee.—Himyah and his matchlock.—Chase of a 177
hyæna.—Visitors from the Debenee tribe.—Guinea-fowl
shooting.—Arrival of Lohitu.—Leave Ramudalee for the
valley of Gobard.
CHAPTER XII.
Conversation with Ohmed Medina respecting the course of 195
the river Hawash.—Description of that river.—Its
termination in Lake Abhibhad.—The various watersheds
of the basin of the Hawash.—Comparison of present
route with that of previous travellers.
CHAPTER XIII.
Leave Gobard for Arabderah.—View of Lake 206
Abhibhad.—March to Saggagahdah.—Meet Kafilah of
Mahomed Allee.—Halt for the night.
CHAPTER XIV.
Description of the plain of Saggagahdah.—Dowaleeka 217
lake.—Effects of mirage.—Slave Kafilah.—Write letters
to Aden.—Retire from camp with Lohitu.—Interview with
Mahomed Allee.
CHAPTER XV.
Journey from Sagagahdah to Mokoito.—Meet old 229
friends.—Conversation upon the origin of the Dankalli
people.—Journey from Mokoito to
Ahmahguloff.—Description of halting-place.
CHAPTER XVI.
Journey to Koranhedudah.—Pass Jibel Obinoe.—Plain of 245
Amardu.—Account of myrrh-tree.—Description of
halting-place.—Singular solar phenomenon.—Journey to
Herhowlee.—Bedouin village.—Bedouin ladies.
CHAPTER XVII.
Stay at Herhowlee.—Dankalli sell their female children for
slaves.—Pillar of sand and cloud of fire indications of
rain.—Engage escort of Hy Soumaulee.—Comparison between
modern Dankalli and ancient Blemmyes.—March to
Barradudda.—Description of halting-place.—Religious
discussion
with Ohmed Medina. 258
CHAPTER XVIII.
Stay at Barradudda.—Milk diet.—Wound myself by 271
accidental discharge of my gun.—Bedouin
skirmish.—Mode of warfare among the
Dankalli.—Compensation for wounds and injured
property.—Peace re-established.
CHAPTER XIX.
Journey to Thermadullah.—Quarrel with Ras ul 285
Kafilah.—Cooking scene.—Dankalli improvisatore.—Camel
saddles.—Stung by scorpion.—Account of some
neighbouring hot springs.
CHAPTER XX.
Journey to Alee-bakalee.—_May 1st._—Journey to 300
Hasanderah.—Dankalli naturalists.—Large herd of
cattle.—Architectural labours.—Mahomedan popular
superstitions.—Sale of children.—A Bedouin father.
CHAPTER XXI.
Purchase tobacco, with remarks on its use among the 313
Dankalli.—Make cover for hat.—Conversation with Ohmed
Medina.—Journey to Bundurah.—Singular effect of
refraction.—Joined by a party of Issah
Soumaulee.—Description of their appearance and
arms.—Affectionate inquiries of Kafilah
friends.—Description of halting-place and country
around Bundurah.
CHAPTER XXII.
Journey to Kuditee.—Territory of the 331
Wahama.—Description of halting-ground.—Meet with
party of friends returning from Shoa.—Strange
request.—Custom of incising skin with sharp
stone.—Influx of Wahama people into camp.—La Belle
Sauvage.—Long discussion with the Wahama.—Differences
settled, and allowed to proceed.
CHAPTER XXIII.
Journey to Hiero Murroo.—False alarm at 345
starting.—Necessity for being prepared for strife in
Adal.—Abu Bukeree, Sheik of the second Debenee
tribe.—Old friend of Lieut. Barker.—Offered
marriage.—Stay at Hiero Murroo.—Find abandoned
property of the Mission.—Negotiations for its
restoration.—Joined by Wahama Kafilah.
CHAPTER XXIV.
Delay in giving up the recovered stores.—Interview with 360
father of Mahomed Allee.—Accompany him to
kraal.—Entertainment there.—Condition of the
stores.—Murder in our camp.—Occupation of Kafilah
people during long halts.—Game of gubertah.—Muditu
visitors.—Expected attack.—Bedouins feasting.—Portion
of entrail around the neck of a Bedouin, not for
ornament, but use.—Amusements.
CHAPTER XXV.
Journey to Mettah.—Conversation upon different roads 380
through Adal to Shoa.—Commercial jealousy between the
Muditu and the Dankalli.—Battle of Hihillo.—Surprise
sleeping friend.—Frighten my servant, Allee.—Halt
near Assa-hemerah kraal.
CHAPTER XXVI.
Journey to Murroo.—Remarks upon the climate of 391
Adal.—Pass some small extinct volcanoes.—A little
farriery.—Cautions for practitioners of medicine
resident among the Dankalli.—Halt for a short time at
Kuma.—Second visit of Abu Bukeree.—Proceed to
Murroo.—Halt near kraal of Durtee Ohmed, Sheik of the
Sidee Ahbreu tribe
CHAPTER XXVII.
Amusements during stay at Murroo.—Bull fight.—Eating 408
raw meat.—Another offer of marriage.—Strange mode of
dressing the hair.—Caution to travellers; perhaps
unnecessary.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Journey to Sakeitaban.—Visit to Durtee Ohmed.—Halt at 418
Sakeitaban.—Proceed to Mullu.—Bad road.—Threats of
assassination.—Shields of the Dankalli, and care of
their arms.—Arrive at Mullu.—Write letter to Ankobar.
CHAPTER XXIX.
Journey to Annee.—Proceed over Plain of Mullu.—Halt in 431
sight of Berdudda.—Muditu kraal and funeral.—Hare
hunt.—Arrive at Annee.—Muditu visitors.—Moonlight
scene.—Stay at Berdudda.—Visit to camp of Hittoo
Galla women.—Attack of formidable
caterpillar.—Situation of halting-place at Annee.
CHAPTER XXX.
Journey to How.—Aleekduggee Sageer.—Immense 445
Kafilah.—Water-cure for determination of blood to the
head.—Attack of the Galla.—Display of forces.—Ras ul
Kafilah balances profit and loss so far.
CHAPTER XXXI.
Journey to Mulkukuyu.—Forest on the right bank of the 455
Hawash.—The ford of Mulkukuyu.—Passage of the
river.—Congratulations.—Scorpion hunting.—Visit the
Hippopotamus lake.—Journey to Azbotee.—Lee
Adu.—Change in character of the country.—View of the
table-land of Abyssinia.—The so-called Abyssinian
Alps.—Reflections.
CHAPTER XXXII.
Journey from Azbotee to Dinnomalee.—Start with escort 474
in the night.—Pass Sheik’s tomb.—Reach Kokki.—Wahama
town.—Arrive at Dinnomalee.—Detained by Custom-house
officers.—Get to Farree.—Accommodations.—Hospitable
reception.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration:
SKETCH MAP
_SHEWING THE_
WATERSHEDS OF ABYSSINIA
_BY_
CHARLES JOHNSTON
_Published by J. Madden & C^o. June 3^{rd}. 1844_
]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TRAVELS IN SOUTHERN ABYSSINIA, ETC.
---------------------
CHAPTER I.
Arrival in Aden.—Preparations for my journey into Africa.—Departure for
Tajourah.—Stay in that town.—Unsuccessful endeavours to proceed
farther.—Return to Aden.—Time, from 24th of December to the 1st of
March.
I ARRIVED in Aden on the 24th of December, 1841, very ill indeed; having
been suffering for nearly two months from a severe intermittent fever,
contracted in Bombay. I was advised to proceed at once to England for
the benefit of my health, but having letters of introduction from the
Indian Government to Capt. Haines, the political agent in Aden, and also
to Capt. Harris, our ambassador at that time to the court of Shoa, in
Abyssinia, which were calculated to assist me materially in my intention
of penetrating into Africa, I persisted in my determination, under all
circumstances, to carry out a resolution formed two years before of
exploring some portion of that interesting, but as yet little known
continent.
Circumstances detained me in Aden nearly six weeks before I received the
welcome intimation from Capt. Haines, that he was about to forward to
Shoa despatches and stores for the use of the Mission, and as he kindly
offered to put them under my charge, I gladly availed myself of the
opportunity thus afforded me of commencing my journey most favourably as
regarded both comfort and convenience; every requisite for such an
undertaking being provided for me that the friendly care and the long
experience of Capt. Haines and the assistant political agent, C. J.
Cruttenden, Esq., could suggest. Mr. Hatchetoor, an active and
intelligent agent, who had been appointed to transact all business with
the chiefs connected with the transit of stores and despatches through
the Adal country, was also instructed to accompany me to Tajourah, a
small seaport, on the opposite African coast, from whence the two
proceeding kafilahs connected with the Embassy had started into the
interior.
A Portuguese servant, named Antonio, who had been engaged to accompany
me, hearing of the sad fate of three European soldiers belonging to
Capt. Harris’s party, and who were killed during the night, a few days’
journey inland, and of the still more recent murder of three of Mr.
Hatchetoor’s native servants, when last he visited Tajourah, became so
alarmed that he deserted; perhaps fortunately for me, as I was thus
spared the trouble and risk of engaging in any quarrels that might have
arisen with the natives on his account. As presents and peace-offerings
to the numerous petty chieftains of the various tribes of Dankalli,
among whom my road lay, I was provided with ten bags of rice, a large
box containing several pieces of white and red calico, some figured
chintz, and a few cotton handkerchiefs of every gaudy colour, besides an
abundant supply of needles and paper, which constituted the material for
minor gifts to be made to a more numerous class of supplicants, the
women and inferior people.
Our arrangements being completed, Mr. Hatchetoor and myself proceeded on
board the brig-of-war Euphrates, commanded by Lieut. John Young, of the
Indian navy, who had received orders to convey us to Tajourah.
We were no sooner on board than the anchor was weighed, and we started
on our short voyage across the Sea of Babel Mandeb. In consequence of
the weak state of my health, I remained on deck no longer than to
witness our passage out of the beautiful and commodious harbour called
Back Bay, which extends to the westward of the low narrow isthmus, and
nearly circular base of the extinct volcano _razè_ of Aden. We arrived
in sight of Tajourah by sunrise the next morning; but it was not until
nearly three o’clock in the afternoon that we anchored in front of that
town. The sails being furled, a salute of seven guns was fired by the
brig, but some time elapsed before any notice was taken of the honour by
the people on shore, a delay which was soon accounted for by _Sultaun
Ebin Mahomed_, the Sheik of the town, sending on board for some
gunpowder to enable him to return the compliment.
Capt. Young and Mr. Hatchetoor landed almost immediately. I remained for
the present on board, as it was considered impolitic for me to appear
desirous of passing through the Adal country until some positive
information could be obtained respecting the second division of stores
which had been sent up to Abyssinia some months before under the charge
of Mr. Bernatz, the artist, and the assistant surveyor, Mr. Scott,
respecting which none but the most disastrous accounts had been received
in Aden. On the return of Capt. Young to the brig, I found, much to my
disappointment, that he did not feel himself justified, under present
circumstances, in trusting into the hands of the people of Tajourah,
several boxes and packages which were to constitute my charge. He also
considered it would be highly injudicious in me to make any attempt to
pass through the country in the disturbed state it was then represented
to be. Part of the mail, however, he determined to forward, if possible,
and had fixed the next day for another interview with the Sultaun to
conclude some arrangements with him and his people that should at least
secure the transmission of the public despatches to Capt. Harris in
Shoa.
Tajourah is a small straggling town consisting of a number of low mat
houses standing on the northern shore of a narrow bay which extends
about twenty miles inward, nearly due east and west. The opposite coast
is at least ten miles distant. From Tajourah, the bay contracts inland
to a channel scarcely four hundred yards wide, when, suddenly expanding
again, it terminates in a large irregularly formed lagoon, called Goobat
ul Khhrab (the bad haven). In modern maps no appearance of this deep
inlet, a very particular feature of the sea-coast in this neighbourhood,
can be found, though in the older Portuguese maps it is accurately
enough laid down. The ancients seem to have been well aware of the
existence of the Bay of Tajourah, for it can be easily identified with
the Sinus Avalitæ of the Periplus.
The sea immediately in front of Tajourah has received, from the
generally unruffled state of its stormless waters, the name of Bahr ul
Barateen, “The sea of Maidens;” which struck me as a singular
correspondence with the name of the sea surrounding the ancient city of
Carthage, which from the map appended to an old school edition of
Virgil, we learn was called by the Romans, _Mare Nympharum_, the
poetical Latin translation of the Arabic, Bahr ul Barateen. Tajourah, it
must be observed, also being the present name of a village situated very
near to the ruins of that once powerful seat of Phœnician commerce.
On the occasion of this visit, much opportunity was not afforded me of
observing the character either of the country or of the people, as I
landed but twice, and then under the closest surveillance of a brother
of the Sultaun, named Isaak, who professed to be greatly alarmed for my
safety during these visits; and although at the time I deemed his
attendance to proceed from any but generous motives, I have since had
reason to believe that his representations of the danger I incurred by
rambling about the neighbourhood without the protection of some powerful
native were founded upon truth, and from a desire that no cause of
ill-feeling between their little town and the English should occur, if
by any possibility it could be avoided. As I before observed, three of
Mr. Hatchetoor’s servants were murdered during the night, on the last
occasion of our intercourse with the inhabitants; and Isaak, though I
felt his presence to be a restraint upon my actions, was quite right for
thus persisting to accompany me on even the most trifling occasions, to
prevent the recurrence of what he, half savage as he was, felt to be an
untoward event.
An opportunity offering itself, Capt. Young introduced me to the Sultaun
of Tajourah. He was a man at least sixty years of age; round his closely
shaven head was wrapped a dirty white muslin turban, beneath which was a
very light Arab skull cap of open wicker-work, made of the mid rib of
the palm leaf. Naked to his waist, over the right shoulder and across
his chest, was slung a broad belt of amulets, consisting of numerous
packages the size of a small cartouche-box, alternately of red cloth and
of leather, each of which contained some written charm against every
evil that he feared, or for every desirable good. A common checked
cotton fotah, or cloth, reaching to the knees, was fastened around his
middle by a leathern belt, in which was secured a very handsome sword of
silver, and completed his dress. In his hand he held a light spear, that
served to support his long spare figure as he walked, or sometimes to
chastise a rebellious urchin, or vituperative female of his household,
by dropping the heavily iron tipped end not very gently on their heads
and shoulders. But little attention was paid to him by his tribe beyond
the simple acknowledgment of him as their chief, and the title was only
valuable as a legal excuse for demanding from merchants and strangers
some paltry present, which alone constitutes, as far as I could observe,
the revenue of the state of Tajourah.
Beyond the limits of the town, the authority of the Sultaun was
disclaimed; and, in fact, it was very evident that to hold quiet
possession of the town, a species of black mail was extorted from him
and the inhabitants by the Bedouins of the surrounding country.
The palace of the Sultaun Ebin Mahomed, who was familiarly styled by his
subjects, “Shabah” (old man), consisted of two rooms, placed at right
angles to each other, the walls of which consisted of mats made of the
plaited palm leaf, stretched upon a slight frame of sticks. The roofs
also were of similar material. The whole was enclosed by a fence about
six feet high, consisting of dry sticks, also covered with mats.
Screens of these suspended mats divided the larger of the two rooms into
four compartments, which were severally used as the harem, store-room,
the family sleeping-room, and the audience-chamber, if such imposing
designations may with propriety be bestowed upon the squalid menage of
the chief of Tajourah. In the other room was the oven, or rather kiln,
for baking; a coarse earthen construction, which resembled in form a
large jar, inside of which was placed the fuel; when it was properly
heated, large layers of unleavened dough, made from the meal of jowahree
mixed with water, was plastered upon the outside, where it remained
until it had dried into a heavy substance, well finger-marked, and
looked sufficiently like a cake to satisfy the eaters, that they were,
really, as they frequently boasted, so far in advance of their Bedouin
neighbours, as to use baked bread.
There were also in this room a few wooden couches upon which the slave
women were accustomed to repose during the heat of the day, when not
engaged in grinding the jowahree meal, or carrying water from the well.
At a short distance from these apartments, but within the enclosed
court, was a singularly constructed wooden building that towered some
six feet above the usual height of houses in Tajourah, being the cabin
of a large bogalow, or native ship, wrecked in the bay, and which had
been elevated upon untrimmed trunks of the date palm-tree.[2] A wall of
matting carried round these posts formed a convenient lower room, which,
with the cabin above, was usually apportioned to strangers visiting the
town. To this extraordinary effort of native architectural genius, was
attached a small yard, separated by a mat screen from the larger court;
and here, at a broken jar, that stood in one corner, under the shade of
a miserable looking henna-tree, the faithful of the household were
always to be found at the stated times of prayer, performing their
ablutions. At small apertures along the lower edge of the screen, close
to the ground, were frequently to be seen rows of white teeth of
startling extent, as the amused slave girl and female branches of the
royal family sought to gratify their curiosity by taking sly peeps at
the Engreez whenever they visited the Sultaun. The law court, if it may
be so termed, was nothing more than an expansion of the lane in the
front of the Sultan’s residence, carefully strewed with the small pebbly
shingle of the neighbouring beach. In form it was oblong, and around it
were placed several large stones, an old ship beam, and a trunk of the
date tree, to serve for the seats of the principal men of the town on
occasions of their public kalahims or councils, which were always held
in this place. The Sultaun generally presided over these assemblies, his
chief business being to distribute the coffee, which was rather stingily
supplied to the parties present.
Footnote 2:
With respect to this wooden building, a recent traveller asserts that
it is made of the hull of a British ship, the Mary Ann, which was
attacked and burned during the night, in the port of Berberah, more
than twenty years ago. To paint the evil one blacker than he really
is, is not considered fair; and I do not see why the treachery and the
violence of the inhabitants of a town nearly one hundred and fifty
miles distant should be thus attached to the people of Tajourah
without any foundation whatever. Another error that demands a positive
contradiction is the statement that the fops of Tajourah are
Soumaulee, with their hair stained red. One of the principal
distinguishing characteristics between the Dankalli, by whom Tajourah
is exclusively inhabited, and the Soumaulee of the opposite coast of
the bay, is this custom among the latter people to change the natural
colour of the hair, by a solution of quick-lime applied to it. Any
Dankalli doing this would be certainly assassinated by his countrymen.
Capt. Young having succeeded in his endeavour to forward the despatches,
this being undertaken by the son of my friend Isaak, on payment of
seventy dollars, made immediate preparations for returning to Aden, in
order to report the unsafe character of the road, and the disinclination
of the Tajourah people to forward the stores to Shoa. I, of course, felt
much disappointed; but could not object to the reasonableness of the
only course that could be taken, and made up my mind to remain in Aden
until a better opportunity should be afforded me of prosecuting my
determination of travelling in Africa.
_Feb. 26._—After a detention of four days at Tajourah, we weighed
anchor, and proceeded on our voyage back to Aden; the wind, however,
being contrary and very light, we did not reach Back Bay until the 1st
of March, during which time I amused myself on board comparing the
present condition of the coast of that part of Africa we had just
visited, with some notes I had collected respecting the ancient
geography, as contained in the Periplus of Arrian, and other works of
the same character I had read.
The present name among the Arabs of the opposite coast of the country in
which Tajourah is situated is Burr Adgem, “the land of fire;” and it
must be observed, that this is also the Arab designation of the present
kingdom of Persia; a significant name, acknowledged to be, and is
evidently derived from the volcanic character of both these districts.
The Burr Adgem, on the south of the Red Sea, is of indefinite extent,
but may be considered as applied to the country reaching from Suakin in
the north, to Mogadishe in the south, and as far west as the high lands
of Abyssinia.
Among the ancients, this country was known as that of the Avalites; in
which word may perhaps be recognised, Affah, the present native name of
the Dankalli tribes, living on the western coast of the Red Sea, but
which formerly had a far more extensive application, and included the
numerous Soumaulee tribes, who inhabited the country to the south of the
Sea of Babel Mandeb as far as Cape Guardefoi, and from thence southward
along the eastern coast of Africa as far as Malinda.
Another name for these Affah tribes is Adal; given to them by the
Abyssinians inland, and which, according to some recent authorities, has
arisen from the circumstance of the principal tribe with whom the
Abyssinians have any intercourse being the Adu Alee, living in the
immediate vicinity of Massoah, which name has gradually become to be
used as the designation of the whole people. I confess that I do not see
the propriety of this derivation, as it appears more natural to derive
the Abyssinian name from that of the chief part of this country at an
early period, when a powerful Egyptian monarch made the Affah port,
Adulis, the capital of an extensive country. The terminal letter of this
proper name, I have been informed, may be the usual Grecian affix to
adapt it to the genius of their language; and I think the probability
is, that the ς has been thus added, and that the word Aduli was the
origin of the Greek Adulis, and of the modern name Adal.
Another very common name for these people is Dankalli, a word which
appears to be of Persian origin; but one that is also acknowledged by
the Affah themselves, as the proper name of their country, or of their
people collectively. In the time of Ludolph, Dankalli was known as the
name of a large kingdom or province, situated on the sea-coast,
extending from the port of Adulis to the confines of the country of the
Assobah Galla, who then dwelt in the country immediately to the north of
Tajourah. The Assobah are now, however, considered to be a Dankalli
tribe, a change which I conceive has taken place in consequence of this
tribe having since become Gibbertee, or “strong in the Islam faith;” for
a religious distinction, I find, has for some centuries separated the
original Affah nation into Dankalli and Soumaulee. The latter, whose
name is derived from the Abyssinian word _soumahe_, or heathens, being
supposed by the strict Mahomedan Dankalli, still in a great proportion
to adhere to their ancient Sabian faith, and only partially to profess
the Islam belief. Soumaulee corresponds with the Arabic word, kafir, or
unbeliever, the name by which alone Edresi, the Arabian geographer, knew
and described the inhabitants of the Affah coast, to the east of the
straits of Babel Mandeb.
It also appears to me that the word Dankalli connects the history of
these people with the empire of the true Ethiopia, or Meroe, which was
situated between the branches of the Tacazze and the Assareek, or the
Red Nile, for it may be that in the Odyssey, where Homer conducts
Neptune into Ethiopia, and places him between two nations of blacks,
perfectly distinct from each other, the poet alludes to the two very
different people, the Shankalli and the Dankalli, inhabiting the low
countries of Africa within the tropics; the former living to the west of
Abyssinia, the latter towards the east. This will be more evident when,
in a future chapter, I connect the elevated table-land of Abyssinia with
the scene of the annual festivities of the gods in Ethiopia.
It may be as well in this place, perhaps, to advance my own opinion as
to the probable derivation of the name Galla, which has been so
generally given to the numerous, divided, and barbarous tribes which I
believe have arisen from the ruins of the once civilized and extensive
empire of Meroe. The word Galla appears to be merely another form of
“Calla,” which in the ancient Persian, Sanscrit, Celtic, and their
modern derivative languages, under modified, but not radically changed
terms, is expressive of blackness, and which was originally conferred
upon a dark-coloured people, as descriptive of their appearance, by the
affrighted nations of a lighter complexion, whom their boldness and
ferocity have nearly extinguished. Thus the original inhabitants of the
high table-land of Abyssinia, a much lighter-coloured race than the
Greeks, called the people of the surrounding low countries Galla, for
the same reason that the Greeks gave them the name of Ethiopians. In the
Geez, or Ethiopic language, these people are styled Tokruree, blacks,
and their country Tokruah; and we find that the Arabs and Indians, also
influenced by external appearance, call them Seedee, and their country
Soudan, from the word _asward_, which signifies black. The Romans, in
like manner, gave them the name of Nigritæ; and we ourselves call them
Blacks. Two nations of Calla or blacks, very different in physical
character and social condition from each other, are now found in the
country of ancient Ethiopia; the Shankalli, or the true negro, and the
Dankalli, who belong decidedly to the Circassian variety of mankind,
possessing round skulls, high full foreheads; the position of the eyes
rectilinear; the nose, mouth, and form of countenance being in every
respect concordant with the characters assigned to that type of the
human race, excepting their colour, which was a dark brown, or sometimes
quite black. Their hair, which is much frizzled and worn very full, is a
savage caricature of a barrister’s wig. I could perceive no other
difference in features or in the form of the head between ourselves and
several individuals of this people; indeed, there was often such a
striking resemblance between them and some of my European acquaintances,
that it was not unusual for me to distinguish them by bestowing the
names of some of my far distant friends upon their Dankalli
counterparts.
Respecting the numerous savage tribes, known in Europe under the general
term Galla, I will not anticipate the results of my subsequent journey,
which afforded me better opportunity of forming an opinion as to the
real character of these people, and of comparing them with others, who
seemed to me to have one common origin, but who differ very materially
in the historical circumstances which have marked the period of their
long separation. I shall, therefore, return for the present to Aden,
which we reached early in the morning of the first of March, three days
after having left Tajourah.
From Back Bay, a joint report was immediately forwarded to Capt. Haines
by Lieut. Young and Mr. Hatchetoor, announcing the return of the brig,
and the ill success that had attended their endeavours to forward the
stores and myself to Shoa. Fortunately, I was not long permitted to
remain at Steamer Point, off which the Euphrates was anchored, for
before noon of the same day we arrived, I received fresh instructions
from Capt. Haines to embark again in the evening, and proceed in company
with the assistant political agent, C. J. Cruttenden, Esq., to Berberah,
where the great annual fair was then being held; from which place it was
arranged a native boat should be engaged to take that gentleman, his two
servants, and myself back to Tajourah. Capt. Haines rightly supposing
that some little jealousy had been excited on the previous occasion by
the appearance of the brig before the town which might have implied that
compulsion would be resorted to, should the inhabitants refuse their
required assistance to communicate with the Embassy in the interior. One
great benefit had resulted from the voyage—my health having considerably
improved. The sea air, fresh scenes, and above all, the considerate
kindness with which I was treated on board the Euphrates confirmed the
restorative reaction which had commenced in Aden. The depressing
influence that for several months had held me in sick durance, yielded
before the excitement of hope, and a new principle of life seemed to
reanimate my nearly worn-out frame.
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