PART III.

TECHNICAL.

PRELIMINARY ADVICE.

We would very strongly recommend the beginner to make his first efforts

on some one or other of the good snow conditions described on pp. 21

and 22. Freshly fallen deep snow is especially to be avoided, for not

only does it afford heavy and difficult going, but a fall in it is apt

to be dangerous. This is, of course, the reverse of what one would

expect; but what happens is that the ski sink in deeply, and in the

event of a fall they are apt to stick and sprain the ankle or knee.

The firmer the snow the better it is, provided always that it be of

sufficient depth and that it be fair snow, and not ice-crust.

All things considered, we would advise the beginner to learn to go

slowly before he learns to go fast. That is to say, as soon as he can

run straight fairly well, we would have him learn how to regulate

his speed and steer by means of what is known as “stemming” (see

_infra_, p. 69). In practising this movement he will at the same time

learn how to balance himself with the weight on one foot, a necessary

accomplishment; for, though in ski-running both ski are usually kept

on the ground, _the weight is nearly always mainly on one foot_. It is

well to pause and try to appreciate this very important fact before

reading further.

After he has learnt something of stemming, and provided that he has

followed our instructions and used his pole as little as possible

(and then only as we direct), he should not find much difficulty in

acquiring some speed in glissading. He should then begin to take short

tours of, say, an hour or two’s duration, gradually lengthening them as

his proficiency increases. _He should when on tour endeavour to apply

the knowledge which he has gained on the practice ground, and on the

practice ground he should try to overcome those difficulties which he

has encountered on tour._ There is no sense in keeping on climbing up

and sliding straight down the same easy hill; yet such is the commonest

form of ski-ing at fashionable Swiss winter resorts!

As soon as the beginner can “turn on the spot,” run straight fairly

well, and “stem,” he _can_ (we do not say he _should_) go where he

pleases. He will, however, remain slow and awkward, and he will miss a

great deal of the beauty of the sport if he rests content with these

easy accomplishments. We trust that he will be of a more ambitious

disposition, and that he will proceed to the mastery of the “S” turn

and of the “Telemark” and “Christiania” swings; and we strongly

recommend him to learn something of jumping, not only on account of the

amusement which he will certainly derive from it, but because it is the

very best means of gaining a good balance for ordinary running.

It is of the greatest importance to cultivate a freedom and elasticity

of movement and position. The muscles should be as strong as iron,

but as flexible as rope. The knees should be pliant, and should act

like the springs of a carriage in relation to the rest of the body. Be

watchful, but courageous, and try hard not to fall.

LEAN FORWARD!

Lean forward is the watchword of the ski-runner, and it is just as well

to explain what is meant by it before proceeding further.

Place your ski parallel, one about a foot in front of the other, and

throw the body forward as much as possible; one ought to feel as if

about to fall on one’s nose. To the onlooker one seems to be standing

on the _entire_ sole of the foot, but in reality all the weight rests

on the front part and the toes. Thus, stand erect on the ski, the knees

a little bent, and then lean forward without bending any part of your

body (especially not the region of the hips) and without raising the

heel; then you ought to feel what is meant. Never assume a position as

if sitting down or about to do so, because that would press down the

heel. Every violation of this great rule of leaning forward is punished

by the ski “bolting” from under one.

TO LIFT THE POINT OF THE SKI.

To lift the point of the ski seems a very simple matter, but it is at

least ten to one that the novice will do it wrong. Press the heel of

the ski down on the ground with your heel, and lift the point upwards

with your toe. _Do not raise any part of your foot from the ski._

[Illustration: FIG. 13.--Turning on the Spot.]

To lift the heel of the ski reverse the above. Here it will not be

possible to keep the heel of the foot on the heel of the ski, but the

binding will raise the latter from the ground to some extent.

TURNING ON THE SPOT.

Turning on the spot is a puzzle to the beginner, though simple when

shown.

Lift one ski straight to the front (see Fig. 13 (1)), putting the heel

end as far away from you as you can, then turn it outwards and away

from you smartly, swinging the point right round and leaving the heel

resting on the snow, then put it down, point by heel, alongside of the

other ski. This twisted position (Fig. 13 (2)) is the only difficulty,

but very few attempts will soon show that it is not so bad or cramped

as it seemed at first. In this position hold the knees slightly bent.

Lastly, _raise the point_ of the other ski and swing it round. You

will find it easier to learn this movement with the assistance of your

stick, which should first be held obliquely across the body, pointing

in the opposite direction to that in which you are turning. Then after

assuming position (2) shift it across as in (3), and lastly swing round

the other ski. As soon as you are proficient with the help of the stick

practise without it--and, of course, both to right and to left. It is

not necessary to stand on the snow in order to learn these movements.

The carpet will do, but remove all Dresden china from the immediate

neighbourhood.

WALKING WITH SKI ON THE LEVEL.

Walking with ski on the level differs from ordinary walking or skating

in this, that _one must not strike out_, there being no fulcrum or

point of resistance. Keep the ski _parallel_ and _as close together as

possible_ (closer than shown in the diagram), for a narrow spoor has

many advantages, besides being “good form.” Throw the weight of the

body forward and _slide on the advanced leg_; the “hind” leg must be

absolutely disengaged--that is to say, do not strike out by trying to

press the snow with it. Begin with long, slow steps, lunging forward

with bent knee (Fig. 14). Do not lift the ski from the ground, but

slide along regularly and conscientiously; do not hurry or flurry, but

save your breath. In one’s first steps one must specially cultivate

precision, sliding forward with ski exactly parallel, and distributing

the weight properly. Lean forward! slide![7]

[Illustration: FIG. 14.--On the Level.

The ski should be kept closer together than shown. The closer the

better.]

A single stick on the level is of but little service, but with two

sticks the pace can be considerably increased, especially on a good

firm surface. Both sticks should be thrown forward simultaneously,

and the slide on the advanced leg accelerated by a vigorous push with

both arms. When proceeding in this way it is well to observe some kind

of rhythm; and, as the snow is seldom slippery enough to admit of a

push at each step, one should run, for example, one, two, three steps

(swinging the sticks forward), and then push with the arms, sliding on,

say, the right leg; then run one, two, three steps and push, sliding on

the left leg, and so on.

UP-HILL.

To the laity it is a matter for wonder how it is possible to climb any

considerable hill at all on ski. We remember well the look of polite

incredulity which passed across the face of a mountaineering friend

some years ago when we told him that a certain well-known pass in the

Alps had been traversed in winter. He had tried ski himself, but had

made very little of them, and the pass in question is a stiff one to

negotiate even in summer. But now long climbs on ski in winter have

become so common that it is unnecessary to pursue the subject further

than to quote the classical observation of Olaus Magnus, “There exists

no mountain, however high, which by means of cunning by-ways he (the

ski-runner) cannot surmount.”

[Illustration: A STIFF CLIMB.

_Photo by E. C. Richardson._]

It is, however, well to observe here that some of the accounts of the

ease with which one can climb hills on ski have been exaggerated. In

rare conditions of perfect snow one may perhaps ascend as quickly as

in summer, but, roughly speaking, it may be said that ski are about

twenty-five per cent. slower up-hill than boots. We are here, of

course, speaking of climbing a steep mountain where it is necessary

to zig-zag (see _infra_), and not of walking straight up a moderate

slope. Moreover, whether we slide the ski upwards in winter or whether

we carry a corresponding weight on our backs in summer, the fact

remains that some 10lb. or so have to be raised so many feet, and we

are handicapped to that extent. Where ski really have the advantage is

after the summit has been reached--of which more anon.

Up to a certain degree of steepness (varying with the quality of the

snow) there is little or no difference between the methods used for

climbing and for walking on the level. Snow is not an absolutely

slippery substance, and the ski always adhere to it to some extent.

There comes, however, very soon a point beyond which we can no longer

slide as on the level, and shortly after-wards another, where the force

of gravity overcomes the “stickiness” of the snow and we begin to slip

back. These points are very different with the expert and the beginner,

and the former will slide easily straight up a slope upon which the

latter will slip hopelessly.

In ascending a steep incline the art lies (1) in knowing (and only

experience can teach one) just how steeply one can go without a slip;

(2) in the correct placing of the ski in the snow; and (3) in the

correct balancing of the body upon the ski when so placed. The correct

placing of the ski is not a difficult matter. The secret lies in

raising the point of the ski (see p. 53) an inch or two from the ground

and bringing it _straight_ down with a _firm_ stamp. The stamp is at

first nearly always made too gently by ladies and too hard by men.

Imagine you are cracking a walnut--that will be about right. Remember

that _where the foot is brought down there it must stop_. If it slips

even the least tiny bit you must stamp again.

[Illustration: FIG. 15.--_Climbing a slope._--_s_ = the fall of the

slope; _t_ = turn here. The shaded parts are obstructions (rocks, thick

growth, &c.).]

Next bring the weight forward as evenly as possible on to the ski you

have stamped, and advance the other leg. In doing so take the greatest

care to balance the weight of the body _straight over_ the stamped ski;

lean neither backwards nor forwards, or you are certain to slip.

In hill-climbing it is, of course, expedient to go as steeply as

possible, but the beginner will find that it pays best to take things

easily at first, as a single slip backwards is more exhausting than

twenty steps forwards.

To negotiate a steep slope one must go across and upward at a

convenient angle, making a zig-zag track, as an engineer would plan a

good mountain road (Fig. 15). Turn at the corners as described, p. 55,

and when so doing remember to assume a safe standing position, for

a slip on a steep slope may be attended by unpleasant consequences.

The correct position in which to stand before turning is clearly with

the ski horizontally in space--that is to say, at right angles to the

direction of the gradient; then one cannot slip while engrossed in the

task.

[Illustration: FIG. 16.--“_Herring-boning._”--The figure is in the act

of lifting the right ski over the heel of the left. The light lines are

his tracks.

NOTE.--Swing the body well, as shown.]

[Illustration: FIG. 17.--_Hill climbing sideways._--Used only on very

steep slopes. The light lines are old tracks.]

The diagrams on page 59 show two other methods of hill-climbing which

are chiefly useful for short slopes. They are both too fatiguing to

be employed for any length of time. A modification of the style shown

in Fig. 17 is, however, very useful, especially on crusted snow. It

consists in going forwards and upwards at the same time, lifting the

ski at every step. This is not so very tiring, and may on a hard

surface be kept up for a considerable length of time without undue

fatigue. The track formed will appear as under.

[Illustration:

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]

It is important when proceeding in this way to remember, when lifting

the _upper_ ski, _to raise its heel from the snow_ (see p. 55) _and

place it well up-hill in a horizontal position_. Most beginners move

only the front part of the ski, and place it in the snow with the

heel pointing down hill. Even if the upper ski does not slip in this

wrong position (as usually happens), the lower ski, when it comes to

be lifted, is sure to be placed across the heel of the upper ski,

imprisoning it and preventing the next step being taken. You are

certain to make this mistake very frequently at first, and it will land

you in all sorts of difficulties and entanglements, but do not forget

that we warned you against it.

A single stick is not of any very positive assistance up-hill, though

it has a negative value on _very_ steep ground both in aiding the

balance and in giving a feeling of security against slipping. In

traversing a slope it should be held across the body with the point

touching the snow on the upper side. The beginner will also find it

useful to assist him in rising to his feet after a fall. He should,

however, entirely abandon all idea of pulling himself up-hill with

his stick; to do so is quite impossible. Balance is what is required,

_plus_ a little thigh muscle, which will come with practice.

Two sticks are, however, of considerable help, especially on moderate

slopes up which it is possible to go straight. They should be placed

in the snow alternately, after the manner which nature dictates. In

traversing steep ground they cease to be of service, for the lower one

is not long enough to reach the slope below one’s feet, and the upper

one cannot be used effectively on the bank at one’s side. Under such

circumstances it is better, and safer, to hold them together and to use

them as one, as described above.

In general for long climbs it is best to go comparatively slowly and to

“keep at it.” The speed of a party should be that of the slowest man.

If you happen to be that unfortunate individual, don’t lag behind if

you can help it, but don’t hesitate to shout to the others if they are

going too fast for you. If, however, they are novices and persist in

rushing, slow down and go your own pace. It is not at all improbable

that if you go steadily you may be the first at the top, after all; but

even if you arrive twenty minutes later than the others you are in no

wise dishonoured.

Strictly between ourselves, we rather like to be last man, and to allow

our more energetic friends to go on ahead. The last man has far the

easiest place on a newly made track, and we do not thirst for the glory

of breaking the snow.

But, of course, a properly organised party should keep together, and

its members should take it in turns to go ahead. It is in itself

a pleasure to move steadily upwards in this way, the ski and the

sticks keeping time, and it makes the way seem shorter and easier for

everybody.

One concluding word of advice may here be given. Eat your lunch

some little distance below your intended highest point. The tops of

mountains and passes are apt to be draughty, and, besides, it is much

better to begin the run down when the muscles are warm and supple than

to wait till after they have turned cold and stiff from sitting about.

GLIDING DOWN.

Gliding down is the characteristic part of ski-running, as distinct

from the use of pattens, Canadian snow-shoes, &c. It is the reward

reaped after the labours of the climb. The ascent is, indeed, a

struggle against gravity, but the descent is the highest advantage

that any physical exercise can safely derive from terrestrial

attraction.

Let us imagine ourselves on the top of some long Norwegian mountain

ready for the plunge. There is a clear course between the steep rocks

near the top, and an open run across the glacier below to the terminal

moraine a mile off. We can see every yard of the way, and all is fair

going, yet we feel just the merest tinge of nervousness, for the

incline is steep, and looks steeper than it is. But there is really no

danger, so it is over the edge and off! In an instant all fears are

left behind, for now balance and quickness of eye are to be put to the

test, and the wind is whistling and the snow dust spurting. We whiz

past the rocks and over a few inequalities, negotiated here by a spring

and a flight of a few yards through the air and there by a compensating

yielding of the knees. Now we rush out on to the smooth surface of the

glacier, where there is no jar and no vibration. Our feet seem to have

vanished, and we lean, as it were, in space, with the ice-wind pressed

against us. There is no more need for balancing, and no thought of

falling, so even is the motion and so trustworthy the snow. Smoothly

our wooden wings bear us onwards, and the furlongs lie behind! But the

end approaches, the slope becomes less steep, the pace slackens, and

presently we glide gently up the opposite slope of the moraine and turn

to watch our companions.

Such is the best picture we can give you of a good straight glissade

on ski; but there is not the slightest reason, friend novice, why you

yourself should not enjoy the reality ere long. You must, however,

learn to walk before you can run, and we would have you make your first

attempts on some quite easy slope, removed if possible from the public

gaze. A few obstacles, such as trees, scattered about do not matter,

as you are not in the least likely to run into them, and they serve to

accustom the eye to their presence. If possible, let there be a gradual

outrun at the bottom of the hill. Practise there awhile, and as soon as

you can run down without a fall move on somewhere else to a place where

the ground is steeper and more uneven.

To start on steep ground is a little difficult at first. Stand

horizontally to the direction of the slope. Then _as quickly as

possible_ lift round first the lower and then the upper ski. Lean

forward and off! If you are quick and lean forward, the ski will not

bolt from under you; if you are slow and hang back, they will.

[Illustration: FIG. 18.--_Gliding on ski._--1. Correct position; 2 and

3. Dangerous and incorrect.]

The correct position for descending a hill is that shown in Fig. 18

(1) above. Keep the ski parallel and _as close together as you can_

(touching if possible), advance one foot about twelve inches, and let

the main weight of the body rest on the ball of the “hind” foot; feel

your way, so to speak, with the front foot. _Lean forward. Bend the

knees slightly, and be as free and as elastic about them as possible._

Practise with either foot leading. Avoid any affected and ridiculous

pose. Do not, for example, if you are running without a stick, hold

the arms straight out from the body as though you were walking a

tight-rope. To do so may slightly assist the balance, but you cannot

run like this with a stick in your hand, and it is far better not to

get into bad habits. No. 3 in the diagram (p. 63) is a very common

attitude, but it is as bad as bad can be. The wide spoor is a cause of

instability, the _extreme_ bending of the knee is a source of weakness,

and there is a very fair chance of the runner (if he falls forward)

knocking out his front teeth against his stick. Hold that article

_clear of the ground_ in a safe position as shown (No. 1, p. 63), and

practise sometimes without it. _Above all things, do not lean backwards

on to the pole_, for the consequence of so doing is that the upper part

of the body is retarded in its speed, and, being thus left further and

further behind, a spill on lumpy ground becomes inevitable. There is

a right way of using the pole for braking and turning, which will be

explained further on, but until some little skill in simple straight

glissading is gained it is best not to trouble about this. We strongly

advise you in the meanwhile not to use the stick at all, but, for

reasons previously stated (see pp. 44 and 45), to practise with it held

in the hand clear of the ground.

Double sticks should be held up one in each hand or trailed behind.

The position shown in Fig. 18 (1) is the safest position for running

over unbroken snow, for by advancing the foot one lengthens the running

surface and so glides more easily over any inequalities, and by holding

the ski together one is less disturbed by any lateral irregularities.

But on an icy road it will be found easier to run with the feet more

level and somewhat apart, for there another disturbing factor, side

slip, comes into play.

So, again, when changes of the snow’s surface are likely to occur,

causing the ski at one time to run freely and at another to stick, it

will be found better to crouch close down to the ground, for by doing

so one lowers the centre of gravity, and is less likely to be pitched

forward when entering the slow snow. And there will be other occasions

when the runner will find it necessary to more or less modify the

position shown in Fig. 18 (1). Nevertheless, this attitude may safely

be considered the _normal_ one for descending hills on ski, and the

beginner is recommended to study it carefully, and to adhere to it as

closely as circumstances will permit.

FALLING AND GETTING UP.

As to the former, we beg to offer Mr. Punch’s advice to those about

to marry--“don’t.” Every ski-runner falls more or less, the beginner

very much, the expert very rarely. But most novices are apt to throw

themselves down far oftener than there is any occasion for. Do not,

therefore, give up simply because you lose your balance a little; very

frequently if you try hard you will be able to keep upright. If you

make up your mind to “stand” down a difficult hill, the chances are

that you will succeed in doing so; but if you are nervous and hang

back, you are almost certain to come to grief. It is specially true

of ski-running that fortune favours the brave. When, however, a fall

cannot be avoided, we would advise you, if possible, to cast yourself

down sideways and backwards; but if the whole affair is beyond your

control, then relax every muscle in your body and let yourself go. Make

no attempt to save yourself or stop rolling. Then there will be no

snapping of tense sinews.

You will generally find out the easiest way of getting up for yourself,

but two little artifices may here be mentioned. One is to get on to the

back of your ski in deep snow; and the other is to bring the ski below

you on a steep slope and to place them at right angles to the gradient

before attempting to rise.

SLIGHT CHANGES OF DIRECTION.

Slight changes of direction can be made by leaning the body a little

this way or that. This is very easy, and requires no explanation.

“SKATING.”

Another way of steering is to lift one of the ski and place it down in

the direction in which one wishes to go, at the same time striking out

with the other foot as in skating. This accomplishment is not exactly

pretty, but it is very useful. One can thus help the ski round a bend

in a road or thread one’s way down a gentle slope amongst trees without

losing speed. It is, however, impossible to execute a very rapid turn

in this manner. A good way of practising “skating” is to do a sort of

“inside edge” on any firm surface (_e.g._, a snow-covered lake) on the

level. One strikes out with the ski in the same manner as with skates

on ice.

BRAKING WITH THE STICK.

This method of controlling the speed has been the subject of a good

deal of discussion. The objections to it are (1) that it is a less

powerful method than any of the others to be mentioned later on; (2)

that it requires greater strength; (3) that the stick is liable to

break and leave the runner helpless; (4) that _its constant use is

conducive to a bad style of running, spoiling the balance, and making

the learning of the other movements more difficult_. Nevertheless, we

doubt whether even the cleverest novice will be able to stop quickly

by means of the “Telemark” or “Christiania” swings for at least a

month or two, and most people will take far longer to learn to do them

even moderately well. How, then, are the poor things to manage in the

meantime? “By snow-ploughing and by stemming,” you reply. Certainly,

but the fact is that with these methods when no stick is used it is

quite impossible, when travelling very fast, to stop suddenly, though

with the help of the stick it is easy to do so.

But we will here go a step further and assert that there are places and

conditions of snow where the use of the stick becomes imperative even

to the expert, as, for example, when traversing a steep and crusted

slope with a precipice below it. We propose therefore, to deal with the

proper way of managing it before proceeding further.

_The important thing to remember in using the stick is to hold it quite

short_, and _as far in front as possible_. Do not let it drag behind.

The accompanying diagrams illustrate a right and a wrong method. Note

that in (1) the left forearm and hand of the runner should rest against

the inside of the shin of his left (advanced) leg. The left hand serves

as a fulcrum, the long end of the lever being held in the right.

Considerable power may be obtained in this manner, but it is not always

feasible on lumpy ground. You must use your own judgment as to when to

employ it, bearing in mind the above principle. But, above all things,

do not assume the position depicted in (2). Here, even though the

entire weight of the body rests on the stick, its braking value (owing

to the angle at which it touches the snow) is very slight. In this

position the ski gradually slide further and further ahead, leaving the

stick, with the runner clinging to it, further and further behind; all

balance and all control are lost, and as soon as a little inequality is

met with a spill occurs.

[Illustration: FIG. 19.--_Braking with the stick._--1. A right way; 2.

A wrong way.]

There exists a way of sitting with the _thigh_ on the pole (_not_ with

the junction of the legs) for braking on narrow, steep, and icy roads,

where all other means are simply out of the question (see Fig. 20);

and for the successful execution of this manœuvre it is necessary to

note the following points very carefully. Assuming one wishes to sit

on the left thigh, then the left hand grasps the end of the pole which

protrudes below. Let this hand be close to the seat, and let the part

of the stick between hand and point be as short as possible. The right

hand _rests on the right knee_, and seizes the upper end of the pole.

This is important, for it is the use of the knee as a support for the

upper hand which gives rigidity to the whole arrangement and allows

one to hold out over long distances. The leg--the one on which one

sits (in the example to the left)--is stretched out in front, and by

shifting the weight from the ski to the point of the pole one can stop

instantly, even on clear ice.

[Illustration: FIG. 20.--_Correct stick riding._]

[Illustration: FIG. 21.--_Snow ploughing._ Showing a method of using

the stick.]

SNOW-PLOUGHING.

We now come to a better method of stopping and braking. Snow-ploughing

is used for reducing the pace and stopping _when running straight

down_. In principle it is very simple, and it is quite easy to learn.

The heels of the ski are pressed apart, and the toes held together,

by which means a V-shaped kind of plough is formed, the friction of

which against the snow causes one to stop. The wider the angle of the

V the greater, of course, will be the braking power. The weight is

distributed evenly between the two ski, and when the snow is hard both

are turned slightly on to their inner edges. When the snow is soft it

is best to hold them flat. The method is particularly serviceable on a

hard road, and under such conditions, even when travelling fast, it can

be employed quite suddenly without fear of accidents. But on soft snow

any attempt to use it when running fast will result in the ski crossing

and a fall forwards. Under such conditions nobody has strength

enough to hold the ski apart. One must accordingly stop (by some other

means) and then, if one wishes to proceed slowly, place the ski in the

V-shaped position and restart.

[Illustration: RECONNOITRING. Half-way up Piz Nier.

_Photo by E. C. Richardson._]

The stick is a useful adjunct to snow-ploughing, and Fig. 21 shows a

serviceable way of holding it.

SIDE-SLIPPING.

On _very_ steep slopes, especially if such be icy, it is sometimes

necessary to slip down sideways. This is simply accomplished by holding

the ski at right angles to the fall of the slope and keeping them

_flat_ on the snow (or ice-crust) instead of edging them. The stick

is held in the snow above the runner, and assists him in preserving

his balance, for the motion is necessarily somewhat irregular.

Side-slipping is, however, nothing but a method of descending a

dangerous slope where snow-ploughing, “stemming,” &c. (see _infra_),

are out of the question. It is not amusing or pretty, but merely

occasionally useful.

STEMMING.

Stemming is akin to snow-ploughing, and by some German writers the

stemming position is termed the half-snow-plough position. It is a most

valuable way of reducing the speed when _traversing_ a slope which one

does not desire to, or cannot, descend straight, and it is also of

great service for turning and stopping under all circumstances. Whilst

of ancient origin and known to all good Norwegian runners, stemming

is but little used in Norway. The chief reasons for this are that the

ground in that country is not in general steep enough to necessitate

traversing, and that most Norwegians are from early childhood familiar

with the more difficult Telemark and Christiania swings. On the

Continent, however, the ground is usually steeper and the skill of the

runner less, and there stemming has been found to be very useful. We

have no hesitation in recommending the beginner to learn it at this

stage if he wants to tour as soon as possible, and eventually to become

a good all-round ski-runner.

At Lilienfeld, a small village near Vienna, stemming was hit upon,

quite independently, by a Herr Zdarsky (an Austrian gentleman to

whom we have already referred), who turned a philosophical mind to

its scientific development. The description which we give of it

is practically the same as that given in his book. Herr Zdarsky

recommends the use of his own special binding, and employs a shortish,

smooth-bottomed ski with a bluff entrance. We have found, however, that

the movements can be made with any good firm binding and with any ski,

though they are undoubtedly easier, both to learn and to accomplish, on

a flat-bottomed short ski, than on a relatively long and grooved ski.

(See p. 32.)

[Illustration: FIG. 22.--_Stemming._]

In learning stemming one distinguishes between the “glider” (the

sliding ski) and the “braker” (the stemming ski). On a hillside the

glider is the upper of the two. The glider must point in the direction

in which one wishes to go. The lower ski, the braker, is kept a little

behind the other, so as to prevent the glider crossing it, and is held

in the position shown in the above diagram (Fig. 22). In order to

ensure smooth and accurate progress it is highly important to remember

to _keep both ski flat on the snow_.

Begin by running obliquely across and down a good steep slope in this

position, _keeping all the weight of the body on the glider, and

merely brushing the snow lightly with the braker_. Choose a gradient

of sufficient steepness to keep you moving at a rate of, say, three

or four miles an hour, and endeavour to run smoothly and to keep in a

straight line.

In practising this you will discover that by pressing more or less on

the braker you can turn up-hill, stop, or go slow, just as you please.

We accordingly formulate directions for so doing.

TO TURN UP-HILL.--Press lightly on the braker, edging it into the snow.

TO STOP.--Press hard, and turn the body up-hill. You will find yourself

come round with a swing. This method of stopping can, of course, be

used anywhere--_e.g._, on the level after running straight down, where,

if one wishes to stop by (say) a turn to the right, one stems with the

left ski, at the same time turning the body to the right.

TO SLIGHTLY REDUCE THE SPEED.--Press a little on the braker without

altering your direction.

Practise these three things patiently, constantly remembering the

injunctions: Glider flat! Weight on glider! (or on braker, to stop!)

Lean forward! Heels apart! Points together! (which latter means that

one must keep the tip of the braker close to the _side_ of the glider,

and about a foot behind its tip).

On hard snow both ski will have to be edged so as to afford a grip on

the impenetrable surface and to prevent side-slip. And between the

extremes of the softest and the hardest snow the runner will discover

many instances where he may have to edge the braker a little while

going. But let him, all the same, interpret these remarks as absolutely

as he can, and always try hard to hold the ski _as flat as possible_.

_Practise on steep ground_, because there mistakes are more easily

discovered, and the correct way soon proclaims its advantages.

Fig. 23 illustrates the proper position for the ski in stemming. The

arrow “s” is the fall of the slope, for the reader is looking straight

at the mountain; “d” is the direction in which the runner wishes to go

obliquely across this slope. This direction is on the whole that of

the glider “g.” The braker “b” brushes the snow with its entire length,

thus producing a _broad_ track, the direct evidence of the braking

power--_i.e._, friction. Therefore, weight _off_ the braker for going,

_on_ for stopping. The steeper the slope the wider must be the angle

formed by the two ski. The little circle “p” shows whereabouts the

point of the pole should be--that is, a little behind the upper foot.

[Illustration: FIG. 23.--_Position for the ski in stemming._]

The pole may be used to facilitate balance when executing these

movements, its point lightly furrowing the snow. It will also be found

to considerably assist a sudden stop, for by pressing it into the

ground and throwing all the weight on to the braker the glider becomes

entirely disengaged, and there is less chance of its crossing the

braker, as is otherwise apt to happen when running very fast. Hold the

pole fairly short, do not lean back on it, and do not use it more than

is really necessary.

TO MAKE A DOWN-HILL CURVE.

The foregoing section gave the beginner directions for turning quickly

up-hill, but how shall he, when crossing a steep slope, turn quickly

down-hill and, without stopping, continue his traverse in the opposite

direction?

To do this is evidently a most valuable accomplishment, for if the

runner cannot achieve it he is obliged at the end of his traverse to

stop and turn as described on p. 55 before he can start off again on

the other tack.

[Illustration: FIG. 24.

_A circular curve to the left._

(=O= represents the =pole=.)

This is the fall of the Slope.

=1.=--You are coming obliquely from above, in the direction of the

arrow “_d_.” First give a vigorous stem with the lower ski “_b_.” Then

=2.=--Let your body sink forward to the left; pull heels more apart.

=3.=--Now you are looking straight down the slope. Just before this

moment you had time to change your stick over. _Both ski flat. Weight

on ski nearest this print._ Note the position for the pole.

=4.=--Coming into stemming “right.”

=5.=--_Done._ Continuing your way stemming “right.”]

Here is the easiest way to learn.

First reduce the speed by a vigorous “stem,” _taking care not to turn

up-hill_ in so doing. Then, keeping _both_ ski rigidly _flat_ and

holding the heels far apart and the points of the ski close together,

turn the body down-hill. LEAN FORWARD, AND THROW ALL THE WEIGHT ON TO

THE OUTSIDE (LOWER) SKI.

You will then, if you have followed these directions _in every

particular_, come round with a delightful swish and find yourself

starting off comfortably in the other direction.

Change the stick to the other side of the body when about half round,

because at that instant one is almost stationary for half a second or

so.

The more one pulls the heels apart the shorter and neater the curve

will be.

If success does not follow, it is due to some mistake, such as not

leaning forward (one will then sit down), or edging the ski (they

catch in the snow and overthrow the runner), or not tearing the heels

sufficiently apart and throwing the weight on to the lower ski (which

causes one to go off at a tangent instead of completing the arc).

The words of command for the curve are, then: Lean forward! Ski flat!

Heels apart! Weight on the lower ski!

The diagrams pp. 73 and 75 should be of assistance in enabling the

beginner to understand what is meant. On a really steep hill it

requires a considerable amount of nerve to make up one’s mind to plunge

for an instant headlong downwards. One’s natural inclination is to hang

back and lean inwards, but this is precisely what one must not do.

The stick will be found to be of considerable assistance in making this

curve, a little touch with it in the snow just as one is coming round

being a great help to the balance. When shifting it across as above

described, hold it rather short and place it in the snow well _in front

of you_. This will assist you in leaning forward. Do not, however,

attempt to spin round leaning on it; to do so throws the weight inside,

which is quite fatal. It is, of course, perfectly possible to make

the turn without a stick at all, but to do so is difficult on very

steep ground. Practise on a moderate slope to begin with; when you

become proficient move on to steeper and yet steeper places; but, of

course, look out for avalanches!

[Illustration: FIG. 25.--Positions 1-5 arranged on a curve. It must,

however, be remembered that in nature the movements follow so closely

that the ski on the drawing would have to overlap. The sweep of a

well-made curve clears a semi-lunar space with a wall of snow at its

lower rim.]

[Illustration: FIG. 26. Shows this.]

Coming down a long and complicated slope one joins one curve to another

without a break, thus dodging the trees and rocks. On a steep incline,

if there are obstacles in the way of a straight descent, the S-track,

as it is called, affords a safe reduction of speed and a prolongation

of the pleasurable slide.

The ski-runner who has reached this stage enjoys himself wherever there

is snow, even if there be little of it, for he can circumvent the

patches where it has melted away. The photograph on the opposite page

shows what can be done after a single winter’s patient practice. It is

a “snake-line” made in the winter of 1903 by one of the writers of this

chapter, and by no means an accomplishment requiring more than ordinary

skill or talent. The slope in question descends from Alp Laret, near

St. Moritz, to the valley in which lies the world-famed Cresta toboggan

run. The gradient is between 40 deg. and 50 deg. (55 deg. to 60 deg.

near the top), and the vertical distance from top to bottom amounts to

exactly 300 metres (1,000ft.). The small avalanche about the middle was

started by the ski of the runner, and the marks and remains of older

avalanches on the left give sufficient testimony as to the steepness of

the spot. The length of the run must be at least half a mile, and the

entire distance was covered without a single fall or stumble. May the

beginner draw the proper conclusion: that where there’s a will there’s

a way, and that both in this case are within the reach of the ordinary

individual who can walk, row, shoot, ride, play tennis, cricket, or

football.

What is it that makes the votary of the slender plank count the

shortening days, and greet with boyish glee the slowly falling flakes?

What makes him tremble with excitement at the sight of the whitening

hills? It is the memory of past delights, the impatience to taste them

again. He sees himself on the top of the mountain. From his feet a

vista of stately firs on a slope of dazzling white stretches away

into the valley a thousand feet below. Above, the clear blue sky.

Off he goes! For ten minutes the swish of the spurting snow is sweet

music to his ears; for ten minutes he scorns the soaring albatross, as

he feels himself buoyed by the feathering ski, swaying from curve to

curve. The excitement of the start has left him, and though ten minutes

may seem a short time he enjoys them to the full, for he is calm, and

glides easily, without a show of strength, without effort or strain. He

feels the mighty power of the rush, the living force which is gathering

as he flies, which drives him along, but which is nevertheless under

his absolute control. He toys with the weight that impels him; by small

movements of his ski he steers and directs the energy within. He can

make the snow yield like water, or resist like steel. He is swung from

turn to turn, irresistibly, but with safe and stately motion, by the

force which he commands; he feels himself rocking softly, like the

petrel on the waves.

[Illustration: THE SNAKE OF LARET.

_Photo by W. R. Rickmers._]

Then comes the end; the stream at the bottom is near. A sudden twist; a

swirling cloud of white, and, as the crystals settle glittering in the

sun, there one sees him firm and erect, the ruler of the mountain, the

master of the snow and ski!

THE “TELEMARK” SWING.

We now come to other more rapid, more brilliant, and more difficult

methods of turning and coming to a sudden standstill. The stemming

turn can hardly be performed quickly when running very fast without

the aid of the stick, especially when long grooved ski are used. But

with the “Telemark” and “Christiania” swings, about to be described,

a good runner can stop suddenly almost anywhere when travelling much

faster. It is indeed a worthy sight to see such a one come sailing

past, his every sinew as pliable and strong as the good ash beneath

his feet, yielding to each dip, as a smart racing vessel yields to the

waves. Twenty-five miles an hour he is travelling, and not a furlong

less. To stop suddenly at such a speed seems impossible. But, swish!

and he is round as easily and as quickly as you can read these words.

How was it done? It was all so rapid you could not follow. You saw

a little sinking on one knee--perhaps not even that. The snow hid

nearly everything. You slide up to our friend and ask him to show

you what he did. He will be most polite and most anxious for you to

learn--especially if he be a Norwegian, as will almost certainly prove

to be the fact. You will be shown just how to place your feet, and just

how to bend the knees, and just how to lean the body. And you will

start off and fail hopelessly again and again. By and by, however,

especially if your teacher be an intelligent man who has had previous

experience with beginners, you will begin to understand the knack of

the movement, and by the end of the afternoon you should be rewarded by

some measure of success.

But perhaps you may not be fortunate enough to meet with such a runner,

or, what is by no means improbable, it may be that, though a clever

performer on ski, he is not a good instructor. He makes the swing, but

knows not himself how he does it. And small blame to him, for how many

people trouble to analyse the things they have learnt as children?

We venture to offer our services. But is it possible to learn these

subtle manœuvres from a book? Most certainly it is; but you must either

take it with you into the field, or else (what is as good, or better)

have some preliminary practice in your bed-room, where you will have

only your looking-glass for an audience, and no small boy in the

immediate neighbourhood to point the finger of scorn. If you do this,

we are sure that you will learn very quickly, or if you fail, then our

instructions must be wrong. If, however, you simply glance through what

we have written without making practical experiments, book in hand, we

can accept no responsibility. These turns are really not at all hard

to make fairly well, which is all that we can pretend to teach; but

to make them with certainty requires long practice. And that is, of

course, entirely your own affair.

We propose to deal with the “Telemark” first--not because it is easier

or more useful, for in this respect there is little to choose between

them, but because it is customary to do so. Besides, the Telemark is a

much prettier swing than the “Christiania,” and it will make a greater

impression on your admiring friends should you be so lucky as to

succeed in making one when showing off.

You will not find your stick (on which we trust you are not in the

habit of riding) of the slightest assistance to you in _learning_

either of these swings. It _may_ help you a little to _make_ the

Christiania once you have acquired the knack of it, but we are very

doubtful even about that, and we strongly advise that from now on you

do not use it at all. Hold it in your hand, except when jumping, as

previously recommended (p. 45), but make no attempt to use it.

[Illustration: FIG. 27.--The Telemark swing.]

Each of these swings can be made in two directions--to right or to

left; and each has its special use for special occasions. Apart,

therefore, from being a graceful accomplishment and from the excellent

practice it affords, it is of considerable practical value to be able

to make all four of them. Nevertheless, most people are content with

one of each kind--a Telemark to the left and a Christiania to the

right--which enables them under ordinary conditions to turn in either

direction without changing the foot (see _infra_). But the best

runners can make all four swings, and we recommend you to emulate their

example.

The Telemark swing is easiest in loose snow, where there is little

side slip. We find it rather easier on the level than the Christiania

(_e.g._, to stop after making a jump), but it is more difficult to make

quickly on a hillside, and in general it is not quite so rapid as the

Christiania.

Fig. 27 (_a_) shows the position in which the body and limbs are held

throughout a Telemark swing to the left. It is convenient to call this

position the Telemark position. Fig. 27 (_b_) shows the position which

the ski assume after the swing is over.

The following directions are for making a Telemark swing to the left.

The directions for making a Telemark swing to the right are identically

the same, substituting left for right and right for left throughout.

TO MAKE A TELEMARK SWING TO THE LEFT.--(_a_) From the normal position

for running down (see p. 63) advance the right ski till the right

ankle is opposite the bend of the left ski. Raise the heel of the left

foot off the left ski, bend the left knee, and throw all the weight

forward on to the right foot. (This is what we mean by “the Telemark

position.”) (_b_) Place the right ski slightly on its left edge and

turn and lean the whole body to the left.

If these directions are correctly carried out, the runner will come

round with a sweep, the sharpness of which will depend upon the force

with which he turns his body as advised in (_b_).

An excellent way of learning this turn is to practise running straight

down hill in the Telemark position. Note especially to raise the heel

of the left foot as shown. This is highly important, and is, in fact,

the key to the whole affair, for if the runner raises his heel he is

almost compelled to throw the weight forward on to the right foot, and

if he can once succeed in doing this everything else is comparatively

easy. So remember to _raise the heel of the left foot and to kneel well

down on the left ski_. Cultivate as narrow a spoor as possible, and as

soon as you can run straight like this at a moderate speed try turning

the body ever such a little. _Look the way you wish to go._ You will

be delighted to discover what a small amount of turning will cause you

to come round very quickly.

To compensate for the centrifugal force exercised by the turn on the

upper part of the body, you will have to lean inwards; in fact, after

you begin to get the knack of the thing, you are pretty certain to

be thrown outwards once or twice. But do not trouble about that too

much; _do not at first make any conscious effort to lean inwards_, or

you will probably fall in that direction; you will very soon begin to

compensate for the outward throw quite unconsciously.

Do not try to turn too quickly when learning, but rather take matters

easily; _speed will come by and by_--in which connection note that both

the “Telemark” and the “Christiania” are _swings_ and _not jerks_, and

that, however rapidly they be performed, the body should be turned

_crescendo_ and _not_ (to continue the music metaphor) _sforzando_.

Another capital way of practising is to stand on some level space at

the edge of a steep hill in the position shown in Fig. 27 (_a_) and

then to slip over the edge and instantly to begin to swing. This method

will allow you to practise a great number of swings in a short time

without the trouble of walking a long way up-hill in order to gain

speed. The following diagram shows graphically how to do so:--

[Illustration: FIG. 28.--A C B is the edge of a steep slope falling in

the direction of the arrow. Stand at the point C. Slip over the edge,

and at once make a swing to the left, stopping at E. Walk up the dotted

line to O, turn (_see_ p. 55) and return to C. Then make a swing to the

right, stopping at D, and returning to C _via_ L. Next, run a little

further down, and swing to G, &c., &c. In this manner the difficulty of

the swing is gradually increased.]

The “Telemark” swing can also be used to make down-hill turns in the

manner described above, p. 72, and the principles there given hold good

here, except that the “Telemark” position, instead of the stemming

position, is held throughout.

A succession of S turns made in this way looks very pretty, but on a

very steep hill their execution becomes rather uncertain, for the snow,

unless perfect, is apt to slip irregularly, and with a true “Telemark”

the stick is no use to help matters out. We have found, however, that a

sort of half-stemming, half-“Telemark” position plus a little stick is

useful in inducing long ski to come round.

THE “CHRISTIANIA” SWING.

The “Christiania” swing differs materially from the “Telemark” swing

in this, that in making it the normal position of the ski is retained,

and the turn is effected in the direction of the advanced foot--that

is to say, to the right if the right foot is leading, and to the left

with the left foot in front. It is easiest on hard snow and on steep

hills, where the ski are liable to skid, on which ground the “Telemark”

is especially difficult.

[Illustration: FIG. 29.--The Christiania swing.]

The term “Christiania” swing for this movement appears to be a

misnomer. For we are assured on very high authority that it was in

common use in Telemarken long before the inhabitants of the capital

acquired any skill in the art of ski-running. We are inclined to

suspect that the name is of Continental origin, for, though we

practised the “Christiania” years ago in Norway, we never there heard

it called by any other name than “Telemarking.” Be this, however, as

it may, the turn in question is a perfectly distinct one, and well

deserves a name of its own, and, as it is known all over Switzerland,

Germany, and Austria as the “Christiania,” we have not dared to take

upon us to alter the name.

Besides being easier in shallow snow and on hillsides than the

Telemark, the Christiania is considerably the more rapid swing of

the two, and a skilful runner can by means of it stop suddenly when

travelling at almost any speed.

Fig. 29 shows the position which the ski usually assume _after a swing

to the right is over_, but diagrams are, in describing this turn, of

very little value, for the great secret of success is to endeavour to

hold the ski in the normal position (see p. 63) throughout.

Here are formal directions for making the swing to the right. To make

it to the left all that is necessary is to substitute left for right

and right for left throughout.

TO MAKE A “CHRISTIANIA” SWING TO THE RIGHT:--(_a_) hold the ski in

the normal position (see p. 63), _press the feet close together_ and

distribute the weight evenly on both ski. Bend both knees a little.

(_b_) Gently _swing_ the whole body, but especially the region about

the hips, round to the right, at the same time leaning in that

direction, throwing the weight on to the _heels_ and edging both ski.

You will, when you have mastered the knack of the movement, be

astonished how quickly you will come round. The ski will assume the

position above shown, and the weight will of itself fall almost

entirely on to the right foot. This latter fact accounts, we believe,

for the directions commonly given for making this turn--viz., to swing

almost entirely on the inner (here the right) foot and to place the

ski as shown. This was also the description given in the first edition

of this book, but a closer analysis and more experience in teaching

have induced us to alter it. We have found that any conscious effort

to swing on the right foot and to place the ski in the position shown

invariably results in the left ski rushing off at a tangent. To avoid

this it is necessary to press the ski tightly together throughout and

to _begin_ the turn with the weight evenly distributed on both.

Beginners will find that the great difficulty in this swing is to get

it started. It involves a peculiar kind of catch of the back part of

the ski in the snow, which is very difficult to explain. Perhaps it

will assist you to arrive at the sort of “feel” of the movement if

you place a chair in front of you and then (standing before it in the

normal position, and without moving the feet) endeavour to sit down on

it.

In this turn also the precepts given above as to swinging easily and

not jerking, and leaving the lean inwards to take care of itself, apply.

It may also be practised after the manner shown in Fig. 28.

_As a substitute for stemming a little of the swing is very useful

for braking when traversing a steep slope._ To practise this select a

steep hill and run straight for a short distance obliquely down and

across it; then make a little of the swing, reducing the pace; then run

straight again; and so on. This is also a very good way of learning the

turn itself.

There seems to be no reason why one should not make S turns by means of

the “Christiania” swing, though to do so must be rather difficult.

In order to save time in changing the foot, skilful runners when

threading their way through a wood (for example) usually make their

turns by the “Telemark” for one direction and the “Christiania” for the

other.

In the above description we have advised the beginner to learn the

“Christiania” swing in the normal position with one foot leading, but

it can also be made with the feet perfectly level. We well remember

our delight and astonishment on one occasion when we saw a first-class

Norwegian runner, after making a 70ft. jump, and when travelling at a

great speed, avoid colliding with a friend and two trees by making with

wonderful rapidity three “Christiania” swings--left, right, and left.

There are, of course, other ways of combining these various methods

of turning which an expert employs quite unconsciously. Indeed, it

is highly probable that your Norwegian friends will never even have

heard of a “Stemming turn” or a “Christiania swing,” any more than

a South Sea islander has heard of a verb or an adjective. This does

not, however, prevent the Norwegian from being an expert on ski or

the coloured gentleman from being a fluent speaker. Nor has it any

bearing on the fact that you as a foreigner will find a grammar of

assistance in learning Kanaka. It is our hope that the classification

we have adopted may similarly prove of assistance to you in becoming a

proficient ski-runner.

JUMPING.

By E. C. RICHARDSON.

So many strange and perverted ideas prevail in England and on the

Continent as to what ski-jumping is, that it is, perhaps, excusable

to begin by mentioning a few of the things which it is not. To begin

with, there are people who think that ski are a sort of seven-league

boots on which one may fly across the snow planes as fast as an

express train, jumping any minor obstacles, such as houses or trees,

which happen to be in the way. This is not so. Four or five miles per

hour is very good going on the level, and it is impossible to jump

upwards from the level over anything higher than a small gooseberry

bush. Again, one frequently hears that Norwegians are born on ski, and

jump before they can walk; but, though the writer of this article has

made every inquiry, he has, so far, failed to authenticate a single

case in point. The truth is that Norwegians of all ages are fond of

ski-running and jumping, but, owing to such things as the melting of

the snow in summer, extreme youth and old age, business and the like,

only a comparatively small number are worthy to be called real experts.

Further, it is not the fact that a special exercise place, with an

elaborately built take-off, is essential. On most hills it is possible

to build, in a few minutes, a jump which will give entertainment both

to the skilful and unskilful; and it frequently happens in the course

of a tour that a little natural drop presents itself, from which one

may skim through the air for several yards before again touching the

snow. True that in Norway hills are specially prepared and elaborate

takeoffs built, but these are chiefly used for competitions, where

long and difficult leaps and spectacular effect are required. It cannot

be too strongly insisted that the sport is wholly independent of

such things, and that, whilst the jump affords by far the best means

of judging the skill of a ski-runner, its enjoyment is by no means

dependent on elaborate construction or mere competition.

[Illustration: SOLBERG HILL.

A successful leap. The jumper’s cap thrown off in flight may be seen

behind him.

_Photo by D. M. M. Chrichton Somerville._]

[Illustration: FIG. 30.--The Solberg Hill (near Christiania.)

Metres.

Length from start (A) to take off (B) = 82

Length from take-off to bottom of hill = 80

----

Together = 162

Fall from A to B = 23

Fall from B to bottom = 32

----

Together = 55

The steepness of the hill in degrees is marked below the outline.]

Like other great sports, ski-jumping calls forth the qualities of

courage, skill, and endurance; a good jumper must have a cool head, a

quick eye, and, above all, a nice sense of balance; but, given these

things, it is open to all to succeed in some measure, be they old or

young, born near the north pole or the equator.

These misapprehensions having been removed, it is expedient to give

a detailed description of what ski-jumping really is, detailed

instructions following later. Your attention is directed to Fig. 30, p.

87.

This represents the section of an exceptionally suitable hill. The

jumper starts from the point A, and slides down to B, where he leaps.

The impetus gained from his journey from A to B, coupled with the leap,

sends him like a cannon ball through the air to C, where he alights,

and continues his course to D. Here he usually stops himself by a

Telemark or Christiania swing. The distance from B to C is the measure

of the length of the jump, which may be anything up to 134ft. (the

record to 1903), according to the condition of the snow; shape, length,

and steepness of the hill; and the skill of the performer.[8]

It will be seen from this that the jump is not a jump _up_, but a jump

_down_; and it can readily be guessed that the difficulty lies not so

much in attaining great length as in retaining an upright position on

alighting. It takes considerable practice to make a jump of 10ft. and

stand, whilst anybody, provided the hill be sufficiently steep, can

jump 100ft. and fall.

Formerly, in Norway, the take-off used to be so placed that the jumper

alighted on the level, instead of on the hill side, and, at first

sight, such an arrangement might be thought to make matters easier.

This is, however, very far from being the case. A jump of anything over

a few yards on the level involves a considerable shock on alighting,

which is not only unpleasant, but renders “standing” a much more

difficult matter, whilst, in the event of a fall, serious injuries may

result. On the other hand, a jump downhill is attended by little or no

shock on alighting, which makes “standing” much easier, and falling

nothing more serious, in the vast majority of cases, than a long

roly-poly, broken by the snow.

Assuming, then, that the slope and snow are suitable, the chief

requisites to success are a sense of balance and great daring. The

bolder, almost rasher, one is, the better. The outlook from the top

of a ski-jump of any magnitude is indeed alarming; for note that the

slope above the take-off is usually, and properly, less steep than

that below; and this means that a man of ordinary stature standing

at the point A (see diagram) sees nothing of the slope B C, and his

sensations, at least at first, are as of one about to launch himself

into a vast abyss. The danger is, however, very largely imaginary,

and a bold, coolly-calculated spring vastly increases the chances of

standing.

But to proceed from these general remarks to details. The ski used for

jumping should be suited to the runner in accordance with the table

given (p. 34). It is not easy to jump on ski shorter than this, but

they may very well be a trifle longer. They should be rather on the

heavy side, so as not to flutter about in the air, and in order to

withstand the strain to which they are put on landing.

Any good firm binding may be used which permits of vertical control

over the ski.

No other special equipment is necessary.

The best snow for jumping is that which has been down for some

days, and which has been trodden by ski into a fairly firm mass.

The temperature of the air should be below freezing point. On such

a surface the ski will glide swiftly and at an even rate of speed,

sinking in about an inch or so--_i.e._, sufficiently to avoid

side-slip. Sticky snow is dangerous, for the reason that it is apt

to occasion a nasty fall forwards, due to the checking of the ski on

alighting. For a similar reason, very deep soft snow is to be avoided,

but it should be noted that freshly fallen snow will often cease to

stick after it has been trodden down, especially should the temperature

of the air be low.

HOW TO SELECT AND PREPARE THE HILL.

As above mentioned, we frequently come across natural jumps when on

tour which require little or no preparation. On most hill-sides there

are places where sudden little dips occur. Give a kick or two with the

ski just below such a dip, so as to make the step (see B, Fig. 30) more

pronounced, and scrape together a little snow on the top of it to raise

it somewhat. Then with half a minute’s stamping about the spot where

you intend to alight your preparations will be complete. Or, again, a

stone lying on a steep hill-side may be pressed into service after the

manner shown below.

[Illustration: FIG. 31.--_Spraet hop_, made by piling snow above a

stone lying on the hill-side.]

Care must, of course, be taken that the top of the stone be covered

with snow. This sort of jump, the point of which turns upwards, is

called a _spraet hop_ in Norwegian. It has the effect of throwing the

runner high into the air and is excellent practice.

Edges of cornices (not, of course, large, dangerous ones), stumps of

trees, buried fences, &c., &c., can often be used for take-offs, and

the runner when on tour should keep his eyes open for such, as they

cause very amusing variations to ordinary going.

But, though when a little skill has been acquired one should practice

on all sorts and kinds of places, it is probably best to begin on

something very easy, in order to gain confidence.

Choose, then, a good steep hill with a fair out-run at the bottom.

The gradient should be not less than 20 degrees, but if it be steeper,

all the better. It is a great mistake to begin on too gentle a slope;

a steep hill is far easier and far safer.

If you can find a hill with a little dip in it, well; but, if not,

never mind.

First select the place for building your take-off. This will usually

be at the edge of the dip, supposing you have found one. If, however,

the slope below this point is less than about double the length of jump

you contemplate, or, say, 20 yards in all, you must place the take-off

somewhat back from the extreme edge, as shown in Fig. 30. But very

likely you may not be able to find any suitable hill with a dip in it.

Never mind; a smooth hill will do quite as well, or perhaps at first

even better. Choose a point on it 20 yards or so above the bottom, and

build a long take-off there in the shape shown below.

[Illustration: FIG. 32.--A long take-off built on a smooth hill.]

This is the form of hill on which you should practise for some time.

Do not at first let there be too much change between the slope of the

take-off and of the hill below, for the greater this difference the

more difficult will be the jump.

In choosing a hill it is, of course, desirable to select one as smooth

and free from difficulties as possible. In Nature, however, such are

seldom to be found, and one generally has to be content with something

less perfect. _It is, however, to be noted that smoothness of surface

and regularity of snow, whilst everywhere desirable, are of special

importance for a distance of ten yards above the spot selected for the

take-off, and for about a similar length below the point of alighting._

So, having chosen your hill, stand down it once or twice to ascertain

the best lie for the track. Then stamp the snow well down with your ski

at the two important places above mentioned, making lanes down them

about nine feet broad, and filling up any hollows with good firm snow.

Then construct the take-off.

This may conveniently be done by making a little fence of tree branches

to the height of a foot or so, at right angles to the track, and then

filling up the space above them with layers of snow and more tree

branches placed flat. The structure should be made as firm as possible,

especially at the edge, and it should combine with the hill above it,

so as not to leave any sudden angle at the join.

Begin with quite a little drop--about 1½ft. should be sufficient--and

as soon as you can “stand” over that build higher and higher.

It is not _necessary_ for practice to make a very wide take-off--2ft.

or 3ft. should be amply sufficient. And in general do not waste

valuable time which might be spent in jumping in building a very

elaborate affair.

The case is, of course, quite different if the hill is intended for a

competition. In this event too much care cannot be taken to give every

competitor an equal chance. Fig. 30 shows an outline of the Solberg

jumping hill, near Christiania, which may be taken as an example of

what a hill ought to be. The snow on a competition hill should be

thoroughly stamped down with ski _some hours before_ the intended

jumping. The take-off should be 3 or 4 yards wide, and there should

be plenty of men both above and below the take-off armed with rakes

to keep the snow in order. The spectators should not be allowed to

approach too closely to the track. The illustrations opposite pp. 9 and

87 show how this is arranged in Norway.

HOW TO JUMP.

First study closely the figures in the diagram (Fig. 33), then read the

following instructions, referring back from time to time.

[Illustration: FIG. 33.

Showing position of limbs and body when jumping.

N.B.--Many good ski-runners bring their ski quite level when assuming

the crouched position before jumping.

The ski are omitted for the sake of clearness.]

THE APPROACH.

Imagine yourself, then, standing some 20 or 30 yards above the

take-off. (The precise distance will, of course, depend on the

steepness of the hill and the speed which you wish to attain; but as

regards speed do not attempt too much at first; it is difficult, of

course, to give an exact measure, but a rate of about 5 yards per

second when approaching the edge of the jump should be sufficient to

begin with.) See that your ski-fastenings are in order, and polish your

ski a little on the snow, or on some fir branches or other twigs, to

remove any lumps adhering to the bottom of them. _Be altogether without

fear_, and start.

Hold the ski close together, with one of them somewhat in advance--say,

with the heel of the one foot about in line with the toe of the other.

About 15 yards or so before reaching the edge of the take-off bend

down, leaning a little forward (see Fig. 33). N.B.--About this point

many good jumpers bring their feet quite level.

THE SATS.

_Some few yards before reaching the edge swing the body evenly

forwards, at the same time straightening up._

This movement is termed the “sats.”

Note particularly that no attempt must be made to _lift_ the feet as in

ordinary jumping. The body should be swung evenly forwards, and at the

same time straighten up from the crouched to the erect position. The

movement, if made vigorously, does, in fact, cause a slight rising from

the ground, but it is best not to be too vigorous at first. _Unroll_

yourself, so to speak, with an easy sweep, avoiding all stiffness and

jerking.

It may perhaps help you to understand what is meant if you make an

_attempt_ to rise on the toes. You should not, indeed, actually rise,

but just at first, if you make an effort in that direction, it will

probably assist you to arrive at the knack of the thing.

Another very important point is the timing of the movement. The body

should be nearly straight just as the take-off is left. Therefore, as

the movement itself takes time, the greater the speed at which you are

travelling the earlier you must begin. Whilst, on the other hand, the

more vigorous the straightening you intend to make the later you can

defer it. You are, however, advised to take things easily, especially

at first, and to aim rather at accuracy and elegance of style than at

mere length. Accordingly it will be necessary for you to begin the

straightening movement rather early. Remember when you first learnt to

shoot how often the tails of the rabbits and pheasants suffered. For

very similar reasons most beginners make the _sats_ too late.

It follows from the above that the object of the _sats_ is

two-fold--firstly, to increase the length of the jump, and, secondly,

to bring the body into the proper position for alighting. The former

is achieved by the straightening movement, and the latter by the swing

forward.

“But,” you ask, “why swing forward at all, why not keep quite still?”

The reason is that in descending all hills on slippery things like ski

the body must be kept quite straight over them--or, in other words, at

about right angles to the slope on which they are travelling. This is

sufficiently obvious. But observe that in jumping the slope below the

take-off is considerably steeper than that above (see p. 93). The body

must accordingly be brought forward when passing from one to the other,

or a fall backwards will result. And such is, indeed, the common fate

of the beginner, whose tendency is invariably to hang back!

Now look at the _spraet hop_, shown in Fig. 31. Here the take-off

itself is turned upwards, and the difference between its direction and

that of the slope below becomes greater than ever. On such a jump it is

especially necessary to swing well forwards, for which reason it is the

very best practice, for once one has learnt to do that everything else

is easy.

POSITION IN THE AIR.

The whole body should be straight and erect. So do not check the

straightening of the knees and thighs if you have not quite finished

your spring when you leave the take-off.

You will feel a compelling necessity to wave your arms round and round

when in the air. Everybody does so more or less, but, of course, your

object should be to be reasonable in this. Frantic waving looks very

ugly. Endeavour to keep your ski parallel to the slope below. There is

always a tendency for the toes to fly up and the heels to drag, which

should be checked as far as possible by pressing down the toes.

ON ALIGHTING.

Slide one foot forwards and the other backwards, relieving any shock

by a slight bending of the knees. This extending of the feet is of

great assistance in preserving the balance, and with a little practice

becomes almost instinctive.

Resume as soon as possible the normal position--_i.e._, ski close

together, one foot slightly in advance, body slightly crouched. As soon

as possible after reaching the level stop yourself by making a Telemark

or Christiania swing.

_Points to be remembered_:--

1. _Don’t be frightened._

2. _Ski close together._

3. _Swing forward, “unroll.”_

4. _Extend ski on alighting._

Pay great attention to your “form,” which is all important, as

in rowing. Think of nothing else, and you will soon succeed. At

competitions the prize is not necessarily awarded to the competitor who

jumps furthest, even if he “stood” after alighting. For if the jump

was made in bad style assuredly it was a fluke, and will seldom be

repeated. All ski-jumpers fall more or less, but it is equally a matter

of surprise if the awkward should “stand,” or the elegant and correct

should fail.

* * * * *

The style of jumping above recommended is that known in Norway as the

_Svæve_--one swoops motionless through the air. It is certainly the

prettiest, as well as the easiest to learn. Another method, however,

exists, known as the _Trække op_, in which the leaper draws up his

legs during his flight, the object being to cover a longer distance.

This, however, however, looks rather ugly (according, at least, to

most people’s ideas), and it is questionable whether one comes so much

further with it, after all.

[Illustration: LEIF BERG JUMPING 90 FEET, AT GLARUS, ’05.

_Photo by E. Jeanrenaud._]

But there is yet another point which it is far more difficult to

decide. Shall the runner jump with feet perfectly level or shall he

advance one of them as shown in Fig. 33? As will be seen from the above

description, the writer has not ventured to speak positively as to

this. On the one hand he has the authority of one of the Holmenkollen

judges for asserting that it is best for the beginner to keep one foot

in advance, whilst on the other the general practice of many (if not,

indeed, most) first-class performers undoubtedly is to keep the feet

quite level. The advocates of the advanced foot contend that extreme

steadiness is of vital importance in taking the _sats_, and that,

inasmuch as the advanced foot position is admittedly steadier than

the other for glissading, it should also be adopted at this stage. In

addition to which they argue that, after the flight through the air,

when the runner first touches ground the advanced foot is the more

stable position of the two. On the other side, those in favour of the

“level-footed” style contend:--Firstly, that to jump with one foot

forward looks ugly (and the writer is inclined to agree with them in

this), and, secondly, that it defeats its own ends, for it involves

leaning forward on to one foot, and accordingly jumping chiefly with

it. And this (they say) is conducive to a crooked flight through the

air. It is not, however, apparent how this is a necessary consequence,

for in ordinary long-jumping the spring is taken almost entirely with

one leg without the balance being in any way upset.

These are, however, theoretical matters, as to which the reader

interested may well be left to work out conclusions for himself, whilst

those who do not care for argument can console themselves with the

reflection that whichever style they like to adopt they have excellent

authority for their choice.

Is it possible that this is another question like that of the bindings

and that perhaps it does not matter so very much, after all? Or may

not both sides be right? May it not, for example, be best to jump

with level feet when the track is smooth and easy, but with one foot

forward when it is irregular and difficult? On the Continent rough

jumping on tour has hardly yet “caught on,” everything being regarded,

so to speak, through competition spectacles. And perhaps this is why

the level-footed style is there so much insisted on. He, however, who

limits himself to jumping at competitions and on elaborately prepared

tracks will never be a really clever ski-runner, and will miss a vast

deal of the possibilities and pleasures of this branch of the sport.

SKI MOUNTAINEERING.

By W. R. RICKMERS.

It is quite impossible to define exactly what constitutes

mountaineering as apart from strolling and short excursions,

but its chief characteristics are distance from human dwellings

and human help, and the presence of special dangers. The term

“mountaineering” comprises a multitude of rules which teach how to

overcome the difficulties and how to avoid the dangers of rising

ground. Mountaineering is a science admirably expounded in a series

of classical text-books, the result of the experience of thousands

of climbers, and the essence of a literature of over 10,000 volumes.

From a subjective point of view mountaineering begins when a wanderer,

approaching a hill or mountain, is conscious of the fact that he will

meet with special conditions which demand a special knowledge. And the

minimum required of a man who wishes to be called a “mountaineer,” a

good mountain climber, an expert, is that as to the theory he should

have “Dent” at his finger-ends (C. T. Dent, Mountaineering, Badminton

Library); and as to the practice, he must be a man who can be trusted

to attempt any peak in the world without endangering the lives of his

companions.

Now, it would be absurd to try to teach mountaineering in a chapter

of this book, for it takes ten years at least to make a mountaineer.

Still less dare I insult the mountaineer by advising him how to behave

in his element, for he will not go high and far until he feels at

home on the planks. By the time he has mastered the technicalities of

ski-ing, he knows everything about the outfit which suits him best, and

about his line of conduct on any expedition he may plan. My remarks

on the subject in hand cannot, therefore, be anything but a series of

very general reflections and impressions, simply intended as a loud

warning to ski-runners that they should study “Alpinism,” and as a

gentle reminder to mountaineers, that ski-running is a somewhat tricky

complication of their art. Why should I tell the latter what type

of ski to take on long tours, seeing that he knows on which kind he

travels best; why should he ask me about his ice-axe when he is sure to

take one or not according to the object in view?[9]

Ski-runners, unless they are climbing experts, or accompanied by

such, must confine themselves to the usual practice-grounds and safe

excursions, for only a mountaineer can decide on the spot whether hill

craft is necessary or not. To explain how he arrives at this decision

would mean a very thick volume. The ski-runner, therefore, who wishes

to form a correct opinion of his own should make up his mind to learn

from amateurs, guides, and books how to look about, think, and behave

when he leaves the beaten track where multitudes are accustomed to go

unthinking and unadvised. My random observations are to impress him

with that necessity, and for the mountaineer they shall be an epitome

of familiar principles.