OUTFIT.
THE SKI.
Almost every valley in Norway had at one time its own special type
of ski, supposed by its inhabitants to be peculiarly suited to their
requirements; and in other lands the variations have been no less
numerous and remarkable. Those interested in antiquities of this kind
are recommended to visit Herr Welhaven’s very large and complete
collection in Christiania, which it is to be hoped the Norwegian nation
will acquire and exhibit in a suitable museum before it is purchased
by some wealthy foreigner. We do not propose to weary the ordinary
reader with a minute description of the various types, especially
as time has shown the special virtues claimed for them to have been
largely imaginary. The very curious Oesterdal ski are, however, worthy
of special notice. In that district the natives used on the left foot
a very long (about 11ft.) and narrow ski, and on the right a shorter
(about 8ft.) and broader one, covered with elk’s or seal’s skin. The
hairy ski was used to push, climb, and turn on, and was called the
_Andor_; whilst the long one, called the _Langski_, was for resting on
when running straight. The long ski was of special value in crossing
the hard, lumpy snow so common in that wind-swept region. There was
much sense in this arrangement, for in point of fact one does as
a rule, even now, run on one ski and steer with the other; but we
fancy that the uneven movements on the level must have been somewhat
fatiguing. Be this as it may, the _Andor_ and the _Langski_ are now
practically extinct, and in hilly countries the _Telemark_ ski has now
superseded all others. In Sweden, Finland, and Russia, and in flat
countries generally, a very long, thin, and narrow ski is found to be
faster. The curve in front is very flat, and there are considerable
variations in the form of groove used underneath. But for a mountainous
country these are too long for up-hill work, and the sharp, flat point
is not suitable for glissading. The Telemark type can, on the other
hand, be used everywhere, and we have no hesitation in recommending it
to our readers.
To the inexperienced eye there is very little difference between the
shape of the ski used by the Telemarkings who first came to Christiania
and those now for sale in that town or on the Continent. Differences,
however, do exist, and some of them are important; besides which it
is unquestionably pleasant to be the owner of a handsome pair of ski
which, in addition to possessing certain advantages, are always a
source of gratification to oneself and of envy and admiration to one’s
friends. We will accordingly mention all the points of a really good
pair, beginning with the most important.
THE WOOD.
It is, of course, necessary that they should be made of very
well-seasoned wood, but, unless you happen to be a timber expert, you
will have to take your dealer’s word for this. Ash is the wood most
widely used, and the one which we would recommend the beginner to
purchase. Hickory ski are faster than ash, but they are considerably
heavier, and frequently brittle. Fir ski are cheap, light, and suitable
for children, but it is difficult to get really good wood strong enough
for adults; moreover, they are considerably slower than ash. Walnut
is also said to be excellent, but it is difficult to procure in long
enough and straight enough planks, and it is little used. A combination
of pine and hickory is often employed for racing, where extreme
lightness and speed are of importance, but it is not as strong as good
ash.
Having decided on the wood, see that the grain is as straight as
possible, and that if at any place it runs out its lines when doing
so point downwards towards the heel, and not upwards towards the toe;
otherwise when the ski begins to wear splinters will be formed, which
will stick downwards into the snow and act as brakes. Beware of very
light ash, which is apt to be brittle; the best is somewhat heavy
even when thoroughly dry and well seasoned. By-and-by, when you have
acquired some skill, you may perhaps like to have a pair of light ski
for the mountains where you intend to go carefully and take no risks,
and where consequently the chance of a break is considerably less; but
you will appreciate them all the more if you have got into the way of
using a heavier article down below.
SHAPE.
The bend in front is of importance. It should begin very gradually at
a point about four-fifths of the distance between the heel end and
the tip, and should not be too steep. A rise of about 5in., measuring
from the ground to the bottom of the tip, is amply sufficient. A good
ski should also be fairly “whippy” about the point, but the elasticity
should be distributed gradually from centre to tip, and should not come
suddenly at one point only. We also like a ski to be broad at the bend,
a shade broader even than the beautiful form shown in Figs. 4 and 5.
The two qualities of gentleness of curve and breadth at the tip assist
a rapid passage _on the top_ of smooth snow, whilst the elasticity is
valuable on lumpy ground, besides being conducive to lightness. The
desirability of elasticity is, we think, a reason for eschewing the
round-upper-sided ski sometimes sold in Norway. The round upper-side
does not, of course, permit of so much loose snow resting upon it
as the flat, but it makes the front part of the ski very stiff, and
consequently unpleasant to run on, slow, and liable to break.
Besides the bend at the point, there is a long upward curve throughout
the length of the ski, running from heel to entrance. The object of
this is, of course, to prevent any bending in the opposite direction
caused by the weight of the body; it also serves to provide an
agreeable elasticity when one is running on the level.
COLOUR.
The colour of the ski is very largely a matter of taste, and in nine
days out of ten is of no practical importance. Every now and again,
however, there will be a time when the sun will beat fiercely on
dark-coloured ski and warm them, causing the snow to adhere to them
top and bottom more readily than to those of lighter colour, which
throw off a greater proportion of the rays. For which reason we
unhesitatingly give our vote for plain varnished or white-painted
ski. Black-painted ski are, however, very common in Norway. They look
very smart and present a pleasing contrast to the snow, and they are
frequently recommended for mountain use, for the reason that when
the eye is dazzled by vast expanses of unbroken white they afford a
valuable point of focus, and so act as a preventive to snow-blindness.
We would, however, strongly advise the reader not to rely too much
on this, or sooner or later his eyes will surely be affected. Smoked
goggles, or some such arrangement as that recommended on page 50,
are infinitely preferable to any black paint. Besides which, plain
varnished ski are ever so much darker than the snow, and one can focus
one’s eyes almost equally well on them. The painting of ski is, on
the other hand, often a cunning device on the part of unscrupulous
dealers to hide defects in the wood--a fact which may account for their
popularity to a greater extent than the guileless may suppose.
[Illustration: SKI.
Modern “Telemark” Type.
FIG. 4.
FIG. 5.]
Having, then, given our vote for plain-varnished, flat-topped, fairly
heavy ash ski of Telemark type, with a long, easy, flattish elastic
entrance and a broadish point, it remains for us to consider how broad
they shall be at the middle and how long over all, and whether they
shall or shall not be provided with a groove underneath them running
from end to end. We approach these questions with a certain degree of
diffidence, for, in the first place, investigations with a view to
their answer have not been, and perhaps cannot be, carried out with
much scientific precision, and, in the second place, they will always
remain very largely matters of personal taste.
SMOOTH-BOTTOMED AND BROAD _versus_ GROOVED AND LONG.
Evidently to some extent the length and breadth of a ski must be
proportionate to the weight of the runner, a certain degree of carrying
surface being necessary to obviate sinking. But, apart from all
questions of support, length is of great importance. In this respect
ski resemble ships, for, generally speaking, the longer they are the
faster they go. Area for area long ski are faster than broad. On the
other hand, the shorter a ski is the more readily it will turn, and it
is, of course, very important to be able to steer easily. There comes
a point, however, when ease of turning develops into wobbling,
and seriously interferes with one’s balance when running straight.
Nor is the unsteadiness of short and broad ski confined to what may
be considered as _horizontal_ wobbling, due to inequalities of the
ground, but broad ski are also more subject to what may be regarded
as _vertical_ wobbling, due to unequal snow consistency. For in the
case of the long ski variations in the carrying power of the snow and
consequent errors of balance occur in a backward and forward direction,
but in the case of a broad ski in a sideward direction, which latter
is, of course, more upsetting.
[Illustration: THE GATES OF THE JOTUNHEIM.
_Photo by E. C. Richardson_]
Again, almost all ski are nowadays provided with a groove along the
bottom, beginning at a point a little distance below the bend and
continuing to the heel. The object of this is to prevent _horizontal_
wobbling and to assist straight running. Its working is most powerful.
Clearly, then, some sort of compromise must be arrived at between
a very smooth and broad ski on the one hand, and a very long and
grooved one on the other. Now in Norway straight running is all the
order of the day. Around Christiania there is scarcely a hill which
cannot be, and is not, taken at full speed, and the smooth, glacier
polished mountains of that country are equally suitable for a straight
descent. In the Black Forest, too, straight running is paramount. For
these countries we recommend grooved ski about as long as the distance
between the ground and the roots of the fingers when the hand is held
above the head, and of a width proportionate to the weight of the
runner. In Switzerland, however, the ground is both steeper and more
irregular, and in general far more difficult for straight running,
hidden water-courses, rocks, and other obstacles being of common
occurrence. There, it is accordingly of paramount importance to the
beginner to be able to control his speed and to turn, and our advice
is that in that country he should, for ordinary going, use somewhat
shorter and slightly broader ski--say, about 6in. shorter than in
Norway. We advise him _for all-round purposes_ in Switzerland to retain
the groove. But if he is going to do much climbing on very steep and
difficult ground, or if he is advancing in years and has lost something
of his pristine dash, he may find it convenient to omit the groove and
to travel on perfectly smooth boards.
LONG ALPINE TOURS.
For really long and arduous mountain tours in the Alps, where every
ounce of weight tells, we would recommend a further reduction of about
a foot in all from the customary Norwegian length, and only a slight
increase (if, indeed, any) in the ordinary breadth. On such expeditions
careful going and power of control are of paramount importance, and
ski-running becomes more of a means to an end than an end in itself. A
little extra sinking in up-hill is not of much moment, and is more than
equalised by the gain in lightness; and down-hill the loss in speed is
of no consequence--indeed, in some cases a positive advantage. On such
ski, too, the groove is better omitted.
ORDINARY USE.
The following table may help the reader to select ski of about the
usual Norwegian proportions:--
HEIGHT OF THE SKI-RUNNER.
--------+--------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+------+-----
| | |4' 3"|5' 0"|5' 3"|5' 5"|5' 7"|5' 9" |5' 11"|
| ---- |Up to| to | to |to | to | to | to | to |Over
| |4' 3"|5' 0"|5' 3"|5' 5"|5' 7 |5' 9"|5' 11"|6' 1" |6' 1"
========+========+=====+=====+=====+=====+=====+=====+======+======+=====
}| Under | 2½" | 2½" | 2½" | 2½" | 2½" | | | |
WEIGHT }|10 STONE| 51" | 59" | 65" | 71" | 77" | -- | -- | -- | --
}|--------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+------+-----
OF }| 10 TO | | | | 2¾" | 2¾" | 2¾" | 2¾" | |
THE }|13 STONE| -- | -- | -- | 71" | 75" | 79" | 83" | -- | --
}|--------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+------+-----
SKI- }| OVER | | | | | | 3" | 3" | 3" | 3"
RUNNER.}|13 stone| -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | 79" | 83" | 87" | 91"
--------+--------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+------------
PRESERVATION.
Ski should be treated properly if they are to retain their full
efficiency. It is a capital plan to oil them from time to time like a
cricket bat. Linseed oil is best for the purpose, and a small quantity
of paraffin should be added to it to help it to penetrate. This
treatment hardens the wood, and renders it waterproof and not liable
to splinter. Ski should be kept in a cool place, but should they be
taken out of a warm room they should be left standing in the cold air
for about ten minutes before they are allowed to touch the snow. One
should avoid walking on them over earth and stones. After use they
should be cleaned. To “set” them, place their under sides in contact,
and strap them loosely together at the points where they touch--viz.,
extreme heel end and base of the tip. Insert a piece of wood about 2in.
square and ½in. thick at a spot indicated by the usual position of your
boot-heel; then strap tightly. They will then be in close touch at the
ends, 2in. apart under the heel, and the “feathering” is thus preserved.
THE BINDING.
No part of a beginner’s outfit is likely to cause him so much “sweet
sorrow” as his binding. The chances are enormous that whatever he buys
will afford him plenty to think about, and, alas! to talk about, for a
considerable time to come. During his early efforts he is certain to
attribute most of his misfortunes to its manifest imperfections, and
if, as we hope, he is a person of an inventive turn of mind, he will
spend the greater part of his evenings, and perhaps even some of the
watches of the night, in designing something new and original which
will at one and the same time overcome all his difficulties and make
his fortune.
It is our sincere desire to assist him in this laudable endeavour,
and accordingly we shall give below a few of the qualities which a
perfect binding ought to possess. Before proceeding to do so it will,
however, be necessary to notice some of those actual forms which other
ski-runners use or have used--a task which is not nearly so agreeable
or so easy. For legion is their name, and it is difficult to make a
selection without hurting somebody’s feelings. During the early days
of the sport in Central Europe (that is to say, till quite recently)
the fiercest controversy raged about bindings (see p. 15). But now,
partly because of the impossibility of saying anything new on the
subject, and partly because the discovery has been made that after
all one’s fastening is not of paramount importance, the topic is no
longer of absorbing interest. Not but what our Teutonic friends retain
their love of controversy, and their earnest methods of conducting
such, but the Scotchman in search of an argument would do better to
start some theme other than bindings, as, for example, seal’s skin or
wax. A reaction has, in fact, set in, and whereas two years ago the
most complicated was the best, we were surprised last season to find
a Continental friend using the old (and very excellent) Lapp binding,
which was so much in vogue in Norway years ago when we first learnt to
go on ski. He, of course, was under the impression that he had the very
latest thing, and we did not enlighten him, but we should not be much
astonished to find him next year twisting birch twigs after the manner
of the early Telemarkings!
Now this plan of making a stiff and strong rope by twisting birch twigs
was the earliest method of connecting the _heel_ of the foot with the
ski. Prior to that a strap across the toe was all that was used. Any
other arrangement was considered dangerous. Then came the Telemarkings
(see p. 9) with their new methods. They bound the ski firmly to the
toe, and lead ropes of twisted birch from the toe round the back of
the heel. This arrangement was at once felt to be an advantage. Not
only did it prevent the foot continually slipping out of the toe strap,
but it relieved the toe itself from much of the strain involved when
the ski has to be pulled forward in walking on the level or up hill;
moreover, it enormously helped steering, and so it was adopted.
SOME COMMON FASTENINGS.
People living in towns, however, either could not procure birch twigs
or lacked skill in preparing and fixing ropes made from them. Something
else had to be substituted, and that something was the thin cane, which
so long held the field. The canes were steamed, and bent round the back
of the heel and secured in front by a clamp. This form of binding was
and still is widely used. But the canes, even when covered with leather
and strengthened with steel wire, were found to be inconvenient. They
broke and they were cumbersome, and the guiding power they allowed
of was limited. So taboo was broken and metal was admitted into the
construction of the fastening. Contrary, however, to expectation,
people’s legs did not break oftener than before, and, as the iron also
stood the strain, a binding like that given below (Fig. 6) became very
popular.
[Illustration: FIG. 6.--Lapp Binding, Huitfeldt’s pattern (left foot).
The heel is secured by means of a single thong about 7ft. long, with
a loop at the end. The loop end is doubled close to the loop, and the
bight passed through the hole in the ski below the ball of the foot.
The long end is then passed round the back of the heel, through the
bight, back round the heel, and through the hoop thus:--]
[Illustration: The whole is then pulled tight, and the long end passed
over the instep, under the thongs on the inside of the foot, back over
the instep, and under and round the thongs on the outside, where it is
secured by a couple of half-hitches. The loose end is then tucked away,
as shown in Fig. 6.]
The LAPP BINDING shown above is Huitfeldt’s pattern. The novelty
about it was the iron toe piece; the thong arrangement had long been
used by the Lapps. As previously mentioned, many people still employ
this binding, and when skilfully adjusted it can be very firm, and it
possesses the merits of extreme simplicity and ease of repair.
We have, however, several objections to it. In the first place, it
takes some little practice and some little strength to fix the thong
properly, an operation rendered doubly difficult when the leather is
frozen and the fingers cold. Again, the thong, especially if changes
of temperature occur, is continually expanding and contracting; the
knots in it are apt to make sore places on the foot, and, like a
boot-lace, it has an irritating way of breaking just when one is in a
hurry. Again, the iron toe piece must be _most carefully_ adjusted to
fit the boot. In short, we dislike the whole fastening for the reason
that, unless it is very carefully put on and attended to, it becomes
altogether toe wobbly.
[Illustration: FIG. 7.--Huitfeldt Binding. Iron Toepiece and Straps.]
The HUITFELDT BINDING given above is considered by many people to be an
improvement on the Lapp binding, and it has attained a vast popularity
in Norway. In principle it differs from the latter but little; but
very stout straps are substituted for the thong with its troublesome
knots, and the iron toe-piece is made of a solid piece of metal, which
is bent up on either side of the ski, and which can be hammered into
the exact shape of the sole of the boot. This is an advantage, as an
accurate fit is insured. The disadvantage is that it is liable to be
bent out of shape by the heavy-soled boot which it is necessary to
wear with this and with the Lapp-binding. The straps, with it too,
expand and contract with the temperature, and a very slight degree of
slackness is sufficient to make the whole very loose. Moreover, the
side straps catch the snow to some extent and act as a brake, though
usually this is not of much consequence. The Huitfeldt binding is also
troublesome to put on firmly, especially when the straps are frozen.
Höyer-Ellefsen’s shortening clamp (Fig. 8) is designed to get over this
difficulty, but it is new, and we have not had sufficient experience of
it to offer any criticism.
[Illustration: FIG. 8.--Höyer-Ellefsen’s Patent Clamp for use with
Huitfeldt’s binding.]
We now come to a new class of fastening, where the heel is connected
with the ski by means of some sort of sole, generally made of the
“belting” used for driving machinery, fixed to the top of the ski in
front of the toe. There are innumerable variations of this plan, a very
simple one being to fix a piece of the belting in front of the foot
and to attach it to the heel of the boot by means of a dummy heel and
a strap leading round the instep. The toe is held in position either
by side irons and a strap, as in the Huitfeldt binding, or by a simple
broad strap passing through the ski and buckling across the toe. In
the latter form it has attained to considerable popularity on the
Continent, especially in the Black Forest. We do not, however, think
it worth while to give a picture of this fastening, as it is not one
which we can recommend for any purpose. The dummy heel fills up with
snow, and becomes uncomfortable; and as to the belting, one is in this
dilemma, that if one uses it thin it buckles and if one uses it very
thick it becomes heavy and too stiff for comfortable walking unless it
be fastened very far forward, in which case it rises off the ski at
every step and presses the toe against the toe strap, thereby causing
discomfort and cold feet.
TORGERSEN’S “HANDRY” BINDING (Fig. 9) is, we think, vastly preferable,
for it has no heel to collect snow, and the belting, only reaching
half-way down the foot, is not so liable to buckle.
It cannot, however, claim to be a really firm binding, though if
the strap leading from the belting round the instep be pulled tight
(and a tight strap at this part of the foot does not seem to affect
the circulation) it is not so loose as might be supposed at first
sight. But the chief advantage of Torgersen’s binding is its extreme
adjustability. It will fit almost anybody, and can be taken on and off
in a moment. On this account it is a very good binding for clubs or
shopmen in Switzerland who let out ski to a number of different people
for short periods. Its only moderate firmness also recommends it to
nervous beginners who want to run straight and fast, and who are afraid
of the slight extra risk involved by using a rigid fastening.
[Illustration: FIG. 9.--Torgersen’s Handy Binding. Driving Belt and
Straps. Half the sole is Driving Belt.]
ELLEFSEN’S PATENT BINDING (Fig. 10) is of the same class. It appeared
last season (1904-5), and has scarcely been in use long enough to allow
of exhaustive criticism.
As with Torgersen’s, the belting only reaches about half-way down
the foot, where it is terminated by an iron cross-piece with upright
cheeks fitting on either side of the heel (see Fig. 10). From these
cheeks a strap leads round the back of the heel, by means of which the
belting is pulled tight. This stretching of the belting is the novelty
of the arrangement, and is very ingenious, as, of course, it prevents
all buckling. The iron toe-pieces are much the same as in Huitfeld,
but they are fixed firmly to the ski by means of the little metal
tongues which are part of them. The tongues at the same time secure
the driving belt under the toe, giving it due stiffness in a vertical
direction and preventing pressure of the toe strap. But obviously this
is the weak spot of the front part of the arrangement, and unless the
belting is of the very best quality it is liable to tear there. The
makers, however, claim that the best belting will not tear, and time
alone can decide whether this is so or not. The binding is not readily
adjustable, and when ordering it is necessary to send a sketch of the
boot which one intends to use with it.
[Illustration: FIG. 10.--Ellefsen’s Patent Binding.]
The figure with the boot also shows a little strap sewn on to the heel
of the boot to prevent the heel straps slipping off. This is very
useful with all the above-named fastenings. See _infra_, pp. 47 and 48.]
The LILIENFELD BINDING has caused more discussion and provoked more
criticism than any other. It, too, is on the “sole” principle, but
differs from all others in this respect, that (except for the heel and
toe straps) it is made entirely of metal.
The vertical axis of the sole is, moreover, placed _in front_ of the
toe, and not under it as in other fastenings, and vertical stiffness
is secured by means of a very ingenious spring arrangement embedded
in the ski. This shifting of the axis forward makes the binding feel
curious at first, but one gets accustomed to it after a while, and then
it becomes very comfortable and pleasant. An objection to the plan is,
however, that one is deprived of much control over the heel of the ski,
and is placed, so to speak, at the mercy of the spring. It is, however,
often convenient to raise the heel of the ski when going up hill, and
it is annoying to find when one tries to do so that it refuses to
obey on account of the spring being insufficiently screwed up. On the
other hand, if the spring be tight the heel keeps “clappering” up and
down at every step. Another decidedly bad point about this fastening is
its weight. It is unquestionably heavy. It is necessary, therefore, to
use a considerably lighter ski with it than with any of the ordinary
arrangements, and light ski are apt to be brittle. It is, however, a
very powerful binding, very suitable for making “S” turns on steep
and difficult ground. It seldom or never breaks, and it is adjustable
to almost any boot. It is usually sold fitted to a special ski with a
hole in it cut for the spring. The so-called “Alpine skee” is shortish,
broadish, and flat-bottomed, with a sharply turned-up bluff entrance.
These qualities render it less suitable for straight running, but
useful for turning on the mountain-side, for which special purpose
it is, indeed, designed. People somewhat advanced in years will find
the “Alpine skee,” with its special fastening, of value for mountain
tours, and it is, we think, easier to learn to turn on it than on any
other; but your dashing youth and your jumper will certainly prefer the
Norwegian article. Of course, the Lilienfeld fastening can be fixed to
a Telemark ski.
[Illustration: FIG. 11.--The Lilienfeld Binding. “Alpine Skee.” Movable
Steel Sole.]
METHOD OF FIXING.
The right way of attaching all the above-named bindings to the boot
will have been evident from the descriptions appended to each. It
is sufficient to observe here that the straps (and particularly the
toe-straps) should never be pulled tighter than occasion demands.
Tight straps are the surest road to frost-bite, besides being very
uncomfortable. For all ordinary going--that is to say, during far the
greater length of time that the ski are on the feet--the straps may be
worn comparatively loose. It is quite easy to tighten them up for a
difficult piece of ground or a jump, and there is no occasion to run
unnecessary risks.
Another important matter is that with all ordinary bindings care
should be taken not to thrust the foot too far into the toe-strap. The
toe-strap should never cross the foot lower than the middle of the
great toe. People are apt to neglect this simple precaution, but in
doing so they run the risk of spraining the foot in the event of a fall
forwards. In the case of the Lilienfeld binding, it is not necessary to
be quite so careful, as with it the vertical axis is in front of the
foot.
CONCLUSION.
The beginner who has read the above remarks probably realises by now
that _there is no such thing as a perfect ski binding which will
satisfy everybody_! Some people want extreme lateral rigidity, others a
little play, and others, again, comparative looseness. It is much the
same with the vertical movement; if very stiff there is great control,
valuable for jumping and for lifting the heel in steep hill climbing,
but the ski “clappers” on the level. If very loose, the toe has to
carry too much weight,[6] and the advantages of stiffness vanish. There
can really be no such thing as a happy mean in these matters, and
everybody must choose that which on the whole is best suited to his
requirements. Nor can any form of fastening last for ever, and the most
that one can expect is that a binding should not be continually giving
way. Do not, therefore, begin by worrying yourself too much about this
part of your equipment. Buy one or other of the bindings depicted above
which you think will suit you best, and learn all about its little
peculiarities and something about ski-running before you decide that
it is no good. Above all things, avoid boring your more experienced
friends with binding talk, of which they have all had enough and to
spare.
FOOT-PLATES.
In order to protect the ski and to prevent snow adhering to it under
the foot it is necessary to fix some sort of anti-sticking material
to that part which is touched by the boot; and a thin plate of some
non-corrosive metal is best for this purpose; the india-rubber or
seal’s skin commonly sold are of little use, and soon wear out.
THE STICK.
The stick is a good servant, but a bad master. It is little used by
first-class runners, except to enable them to increase the speed by
punting. There can, however, be no doubt that it greatly assists a
beginner in preserving his balance on difficult ground and in turning.
On the other hand, it is equally certain that it is frequently the
cause of his adopting a bad style, of spoiling his balance, and of
hindering or entirely blocking his progress in the art of turning. To
jump with a stick in the hand is most dangerous, and, of course, there
is always the possibility of the stick being lost or broken on tour.
Accordingly there are those who recommend the beginner to leave
this part of his outfit at home; and much is to be said in favour
of such advice, especially in the case of a young and active pupil.
When, however, it is argued that anybody who can go on ski without a
stick will not have any difficulty in subsequently taking to one, we
venture to differ. Perhaps in rare cases it may be so, but we have
had a somewhat extensive experience of beginners of all ages, and we
have always found it otherwise. The novice who has learnt without a
stick seems to be greatly embarrassed when one is first placed in his
hand. Moreover, we have met not a few ski-runners, no longer novices,
who make very pretty Telemark and Christiania swings on the practice
ground with hands free, but who break down hopelessly on tour when
encumbered with a stick. But everybody is agreed that a stick of some
sort or other should be taken on tour, and we fail to see the use of
these pretty manœuvres if they cannot be accomplished when really most
required. This, however, is far from being the whole case for the pole.
What is your poor elderly friend to do when he tumbles in deep snow?
It frequently requires considerable activity to get up under such
circumstances, and what is here mentioned half in jest might really be
an ugly matter. Besides, nobody over twenty-five can be expected to
enjoy continual struggling head downwards. People get exhausted, people
begin to think that it is impossible to learn, and people take to some
inferior sport which they find easier, and therefore more amusing. Did
you mutter “Let them go”? Nay; but there we touch the very root of the
matter. Is ski-running merely a pretty form of athletics for the few,
or is it a noble sport for the people, leading them forth from stuffy
houses and narrow roads to the glories of the winter landscape? Surely
the latter; and we would rather the runner sat on his pole at every
hill and visited the woods and mountains than that he was the cleverest
performer on the practice ground and went nowhere else. “But,” it is
said, “if the beginner accustoms himself to run with a stick in his
hand he will be quite helpless when he loses it or breaks it, or when
he wishes to jump.” This is, of course, to some extent true, but the
case is not so bad as all that. In reality, as above hinted, it is a
good deal easier to run without a stick than with one after a certain
stage has been reached; our experience is that the more advanced pupil
soon learns to appreciate this, and that the transition from stick to
no stick is seldom difficult. Besides, there is no reason to carry
matters to extremes and _never_ to practise with the arms free.
[Illustration: THORWALD HANSEN. King’s Prizeman, Norway, ’05.
_Photo by Th. Thorkelsen._]
Our advice, then, is:--_Begin by carrying a stick in the hand, but use
it only to overcome a difficulty. Endeavour to be as independent of it
as possible, and practise sometimes without it._
Shall the ski-runner use two sticks or one? and shall it or they be
furnished with a basket arrangement at the end (see Fig. 12)? These
are questions which have also been much discussed, and frequently
rather unprofitably. We think that it all depends on circumstances.
Two light bamboos with wicker-work discs (Norwegian _Trindser_) at the
end are very serviceable when one has got beyond the beginner’s stage.
They help one up hill and along the level, and down hill they may be
trailed behind in each hand, or on difficult ground held together
and used as one. The discs are, of course, intended to prevent the
point penetrating the snow to too great a depth--_not_ to act as
brakes. But on very steep and hard mountain sides where one may find
oneself--sometimes with a precipice below--they are far from being a
source of comfort. On such occasions one prefers to have a single stout
staff, which one can thrust deeply into the snow, and which one knows
will not slip or break. And in general we have not found two sticks to
be of much service in the high Alps, though for lower excursions in
Switzerland and in the Black Forest and everywhere in Norway we prefer
them. The novice, however, should, we think, _begin_ with a simple
staff of good ash or other strong wood, without any disc at the end. He
is sure to require to use his stick to some extent (indeed, we shall
advise him lower down to do so), and he would probably only break light
double sticks. He should get into the habit of holding his stick in
either hand, and should begin to practise with two as soon as he thinks
he is far enough advanced to do so. In choosing his stick he will
select one about as long as from the ground to the top of his shoulder.
It should be furnished with a metal ferrule and a spike at the lower
end, and a _broad_ leather loop at the top for the hand.
[Illustration: FIG. 12.--Disc for bottom of ski stick, attached by
metal ears. Staub of Zürich’s pattern.]
The double bamboo sticks should also be about as long as from the
ground to the shoulder. They are best out from the root end of the
plant, where it is strongest; the root also serves as a convenient
lump for the hand to hold. The discs are best attached by a metal
arrangement, as shown in Fig. 12, and not by boring a hole in the cane
and passing a piece of leather through it, as is common in Norway. The
one method holds for a long time; the other breaks very soon.
FOOTGEAR.
This is a very important part of a ski-runner’s outfit, and too much
attention cannot be paid to it. Nevertheless, nothing is commoner in
Switzerland than to see the early efforts of beginners enormously
handicapped by unsuitable boots. English ladies, particularly, seem to
find it difficult to make up their minds to spend the necessary amount
of money on a suitable pair, and usually appear in thin, high-heeled
shoes covered by “gouties.” But the acme of thoughtlessness was in our
experience achieved by a man who went out in patent-leather boots and
openwork silk socks! The consequences were, of course, frost-bite, and
he narrowly escaped losing a few toes.
A strongly made, waterproof, low-heeled boot is a necessity, and with
most modern bindings the sole should be not less than half an inch
thick. It should be roomy enough to permit of _at least_ three pairs of
extra thick socks being worn, and there should be plenty of room for
the toes to “waggle.” With bindings such as Huitfeldt’s it is better
not to have the toe cut too square, for a more or less wedge-shaped end
fits better into the toe-irons. In order to resist the pressure of the
toe-strap it is best to have the leather extra thick in front. The boot
should fit fairly tightly round the ankle and instep, for reasonable
firmness at this point does not interfere with the circulation, and
is of value in preventing sprained ankles and chafed heels. With
Ellefsen’s binding, where there are no straps across that part of the
foot, this is of special importance. Nothing is gained by wearing a
sloppy sort of boot and subsequently imprisoning the foot in tight and
narrow straps. The strain of moving the ski has to be borne somewhere,
and it is best to distribute it evenly where it is least felt. In order
to prevent the heel straps slipping down it is strongly advisable with
all the bindings mentioned above (except the Lilienfeld) to have a
small strong strap and buckle sewn to the heel of the boots. The buckle
should point upwards, and should be fixed quite close. The end of the
strap then points downwards, and is useful as a sort of shoehorn for
pulling on the binding.
For Switzerland we would advise the addition of a _few_ nails to the
sole of the boot. They prevent any slipping about on icy places round
the house, and they make all the difference to one’s happiness in
climbing on foot over a pass, or the last few yards of some rocky and
icy summit. They are not, however, to be recommended in Norway, where
nobody wears them. Not but what there is plenty of ice round the hotels
and sanatoria there, but in that country custom is everything, and it
is better to bear with a bump or two than to offend.
In the Black Forest ski boots are often made of dog or calf skin, with
the hair left on _outside_. An inner coating of hair is often added,
but this we think is a mistake, as it is difficult to dry after use.
The exterior coating of hair is, however, a great protection against
cold. It wears out in course of time, and then the thing to do is to
follow the classical example of the King of the Jews and buy another
pair.
Arctic explorers and others who go to very cold places are unanimous
as to the virtues of outside hair, and various devices exist to enable
the runner to fix a covering of it over his ordinary boots. These
inventions are, however, apt to be too bulky, or to fill up with snow,
or to be cut by a nailed boot, and we cannot recommend any we have
seen. A very simple plan is, however, to nail a piece of skin (or
canvas-covered felt) to the ski in front of the foot, and to pass it
between the toe-strap and the boot. It should be wide enough and long
enough to cover the toes, but not, of course, so wide as to project
and act as a brake. This little dodge helps to keep the toes warm, not
only by the extra covering which it affords, but also by distributing
the pressure of the toe-strap over a greater surface; it also to
some extent prevents snow collecting under the toes and forming an
uncomfortable lump there.
Boots should be greased now and again, but in moderation, for excessive
greasing is said to cause cold feet. The boots should be warmed (with
hot water or otherwise) before the grease is applied. Castor oil is
excellent for this purpose.
The best kind of socks to wear are very thick ones made of goat’s
hair; but nowadays they are difficult to get. In Norway so-called
“Ragge Sokker” are no longer made of pure material, and the modern
imitation is harsh and uncomfortable. Thick woollen socks known as
“Ladder” are now largely used, and a pair of these over a good ordinary
sock are sufficient for most purposes. It is, however, always advisable
to take a dry pair in one’s rucksack, for, however waterproof one’s
boots may be, a considerable amount of moisture always accumulates
inside them. This is due to the condensation of perspiration against
the cold outer surface of the boot, and is most dangerous in very cold
weather, when the leather freezes and its pores are choked by ice.
When this occurs the toe-straps should be loosed and the toes should
be kept moving. Frost-bite is very insidious, and is frequently quite
unnoticed by the sufferer till he reaches home and it is too late. The
consequences may be very serious, and it is impossible to be too much
on one’s guard.
From the above it will be seen that there is plenty of room for
improvement in the ski-runner’s footgear. We recommend a thick
under-sock, a pair of good “Ladder,” a stout boot, fitting well about
the ankle, but with plenty of room at the toes, and a piece of skin
covering the toes and held in position by the toe strap. But, all the
same, we frequently suffer from cold feet, and we wish somebody would
invent something better.
OTHER CLOTHES.
Other clothes are of minor importance. Remember that the season and
the snow are cold, that the latter melts, that the exercise is at
times very violent, and then you are not likely to try wading trousers
or an umbrella. The best clothes for ski-runners are, perhaps,
knickerbockers and a double-breasted jacket. Choose a material of
smooth texture, for woolly stuffs catch the snow, which soon forms into
icy lumps, betraying the novice and melting unpleasantly in a warm
room. All openings at the neck, sleeves, knees, and ankles must have
an arrangement to fit closely to keep out the snow, which is apt to
find its way in, especially in the earlier stages of practice. Let the
cap, or soft felt hat, be provided with flaps, to protect the ears in
a sharp breeze. The so-called St. Moritz cap is excellently adapted to
the purpose. Thick woollen gloves, long enough to reach high above the
wrist, are indispensable, and a second pair ought to be in the pocket
as a change, for wet gloves in a cold wind are the surest road to
frost-bite. Puttees are probably the best means to shut the top of the
boot and to cover the stockings. Some sort of wind-jacket is necessary
in the Norwegian mountains and elsewhere where strong winds prevail.
A capital one is in use in Austria. It is made of very thin oil-silk
in the form of a sort of smock-frock, with a hood at the back for the
head. It weighs almost nothing, and is warmer than any sweater. With
this and a pair of trousers of the same material one may laugh at the
most biting wind that ever blew, and the dangers of a night out become
greatly minimised.
ACCESSORIES.
The RÜCKSACK--Norwegian Rypesæk--came originally from the Tyrol, and is
by far the best means of carrying things. It should be made of stout
waterproof canvas, and should be provided with broad shoulder-straps.
We advise the novice to buy as good a one as he can afford; he will
find it useful for other things besides ski-running.
SMOKED GLASSES, or some such device as that recommended below, will
generally have to be worn above the tree-line to protect the eyes from
snow-blindness. The precise nature of this complaint does not appear
to be understood. It appears to be more prevalent in some countries
than in others, and is not, we think, entirely a matter of intensity
of light. It seems, for example, to be more dangerous in the Norwegian
mountains than in Switzerland. Like frost-bite, it is insidious, and
the patient frequently is not seriously inconvenienced till after the
damage is done. Some people, too, are far more susceptible to it than
others. Instead of smoked glass, which is liable to become dimmed by
the condensation upon it of moisture, we prefer a simple oblong piece
of leather, 6in. long and about 1in. broad, with two oval-shaped holes
in it opposite the eyes, say, ½in. long by ⅜in. broad; a slit for the
nose to hold it in position, and two pieces of string to bind it round
the head.
[Illustration: IN DERBYSHIRE, NOVEMBER, ’04.
_Photo by C. R. Wingfield._]
The WATER-BOTTLE should be of sufficient capacity; one to hold about a
litre is convenient. It should be provided with a felt covering and a
tight-fitting cork. What to put into it is a matter of choice, though
much alcohol is not to be recommended. Personally we have given up
compounding drinks of cold tea, sugar, and wine, for the reason that
they are so nice that we drink more at a time than we should. Our
companions, too, look at us with such longing eyes that it is difficult
to resist their dumb appeal. Such a water-bottle is soon empty. Plain
sugar and water is not so nice, but is very sustaining, the sugar being
very rapidly digested, and a raw egg or two adds to the value of the
compound. Dried prunes, acidulated drops, and other sweetmeats will be
found very pleasant on a ski tour, even though one never touches them
at other times. Louis Stevenson has observed that the hungrier a man is
the more he appreciates delicacies, so do not let your luncheon consist
entirely of plain beef sandwiches. Remember, too, that it is better to
eat little and often than largely and all at once.
SOME SORT OF REPAIRING OUTFIT and a spare ski tip should always be
taken with one. There are little light metal tips on the market made
to fit over a broken ski which are very useful. The kind that fixes
with a screw is best, as the other is apt to come off. If, however, one
has the latter, a small screw-nail through it would keep it in place.
With one of these tips, and the means of making an improvised binding
with a few screw eyes and nails, a washer or two, and some straps, the
runner should be able to get home easily enough wherever his ski may
break. The reader must use his ingenuity in such matters, remembering
always that it is impossible to execute very elaborate repairs with
cold fingers.
There are other odds and ends more or less useful on tour, a
description of which will be found in any dealer’s list.