the city. The heights reminded me of Hong-Kong; but on this third visit
the scene seemed to have gained new interest, for all Nature was in her
Summer dress, and the streets and parks teemed with life. There were
many jinrikisha rides and much general enjoyment during the two weeks
and a half that followed. Yokohama is a modern city and not famed for
sight-seeing particularly, aside from the shops, which are of great
interest and are filled with beautiful things; the curios, silks, and
embroideries were very enticing, and, as dressmaking can be done well
and economically by many of the Chinese tailors, some time is devoted
even by tourists to that.
Moto-machi Temple is of interest, heading the little shopping street of
that name, which, with Benten-dori divides the interest as regards small
but well-equipped native stores. The temple is Buddhist.
Nogeshima is a hill from which an extended view of the city and harbor
may be enjoyed. With cherry blossoms in May, great fields of
many-colored iris marked the month of June, and an expedition to such a
field proved attractive. The ride around Mississippi Bay is possibly the
greatest trip for an afternoon's excursion. A picturesque feature of the
city is the one hundred steps leading to the heights, on the top of
which is a tea-house, largely frequented by residents. The many
pleasant homes and churches make the heights very attractive, and one
morning we extended our jinrikisha ride to the outskirts so as to visit
the gardens and greenhouses of a young Japanese who supplies the hotel
with peculiar dwarfed plants for the dining-room tables. We saw some
maples and cedars twelve inches in height and fifteen years old.
The park, attractive at any time, is especially interesting in May on
account of the cherry blossoms. It must be remembered that Yokohama was
only a fishing village when Commodore Perry anchored there in 1854; it
was not the treaty port until 1858, and from that time begins its
commercial importance. The greatest portion of the city as it now exists
dates from after the fire of 1866, and the bluff on which most of the
residents have their dwellings was first leased for building purposes in
1867; since then a large native town has sprung up outside the foreign
settlement.
The principal excursion from Yokohama is to Kamakura, about one hour's
ride by train. It was once the capital of Japan, from the end of the
twelfth to the fifteenth century, numbering over one million
inhabitants; but it now affords no indication of its former glory; it is
only a little seaside village to-day, and its principal interests are
the great Dai-butzu, or Buddha, and certain other temples; the Buddha is
renowned among Japanese works of art. We took a jinrikisha from the
station, and first visited the Temple of Hachiman, which occupies a high
position on a hill and is reached through an avenue of pine trees. We
passed through three stone toriis before reaching the temple, which
stands at the head of a broad flight of stone steps.
[Illustration: _Mississippi Bay_]
The perspective when approaching the gigantic Buddha is fine, and gives
one, at a distance even, the impression of great majesty. This work
dates from about 1252 A.D. It was originally enclosed in a building,
fifty yards square, whose roof was supported on sixty-three massive
wooden pillars. The temple buildings were twice destroyed by tidal
waves, since which they have not been re-erected, and the image has
therefore been exposed to the elements. Within the statue is a large
room. As we approached the great bronze Buddha, we realized an
indefinable, spiritual significance; it stands over forty-nine feet high
and ninety-seven feet in circumference, but appears serene, seemingly in
the attainment of absolute peace after having reached the Nirvana.
The Temple of Kwannon is not far from the Dai-butzu, on an eminence,
commanding a beautiful view of the seashore and the plain. We had
luncheon at a pretty seaside hotel, Kamakura now being a Summer resort.
Afterwards we took a tram for the Sacred Island of Enoshima. Arriving
at the village of Katse, we walked across to the island. Enoshima
presents a high wooded aspect, and through the foliage on the heights
one can obtain glimpses of many tea-houses. From the earliest ages the
island was sacred to Benten, the Buddhist goddess of love. Nearly all of
the temples are dedicated to Shinto goddesses. The most sacred spot is a
cave on the far side of the island, one hundred and twenty-four yards in
depth, the height at the entrance being at least thirty feet.
We next took the train for Yumoto, the point of departure by jinrikisha
for Miyanoshita.
The train ride to Yumoto was most unusual, as the line lay through a
succession of small villages, the road sometimes being so narrow that we
could see into the homes or look into shop windows as we went through a
business street. At Yumoto we took a jinrikisha for the ascent to
Miyanoshita; the route was picturesque. To the left were mountains, the
rocky sides sometimes projecting over the roadway, and giving me the
sensation of imminent danger.
[Illustration: _View of Miyanoshita_]
To the right, far below, was a long extended valley through which poured
a mountain stream, the murmur of which was a continual refrain. On the
other side of the valley was a towering range of mountains. The whole
scene affects one in a peculiarly subtle way; there is a sensation of
being withdrawn from the actual experiences, of living in a new and
far-away world. Suddenly the road diverged, and we had mountains on
either side; another turn, and on a tree was a signboard, "Durkee's
Scotch Whiskey." Instantly the "supreme moment" vanished, and I was
again in my home city, and one of a band of women battling "the
bill-board nuisance." I was rebellious at thus being despoiled of my
poetic mood and tried to regain lost ground, but erelong another turn
and Durkee's Scotch Whiskey again appeared! Sadly I resigned myself to
fate and awaited our arrival at the Fujira Hotel.
It was dark when we reached the little village and went still farther up
the slope to where the lights were gleaming from the circling,
four-divisioned hostelry.
As I entered the spacious hall and caught glimpses of the adjacent
apartments, then went upward to my own dainty room furnished in European
style, I felt a sense of relief. Two little maids appeared to offer
service, a pretty kimono and slippers suggested comfort, and I was
content! Descending to the dining-room a little later, I met an English
lady and her brother, who had been steamer and hotel companions several
times, and this furnished more good cheer.
The following morning, I joined an early party for the excursion to Lake
Hakone. It was a glorious day and promised well for the hoped-for view
of Mt. Fujiyama, 12,000 feet above the sea.
The way is too rough and mountainous to be taken other than in a sedan
chair. At first we had lovely mountain scenery, then the road grew
wilder and mountain gorges appeared on either hand, then in one place
there were far distant mountains, a nearer range almost sloping to our
pathway. Sometimes the ascent was so steep and the path so narrow that
it required much holding on to retain the seat in the chair.
This was even more difficult when we began to make our descent to the
village, which is, however, 2378 feet above the sea (Miyanoshita is 1377
feet). The little Japanese tea-house where we tarried and had our
luncheon is finely located close to the shore of Lake Hakone, a
beautiful body of water with wooded shores. This lake is popular for
boating and bathing.
From the window we looked out on the distant sacred mountain, Fujiyama,
which is revered by all Japan. Sometimes the clouds rested lovingly on
its crest, and sometimes almost veiled it, but twice we saw the entire
snow-covered space and no adjective can describe the matchless glory of
that view. Poets have sung of it, and legend has woven fantastic tales
around it, which the natives accept without a doubt.
Mt. Fugii is the scene in Summer of constant visitations--about forty
thousand pilgrims appearing there yearly, mostly of the working-class.
Before the sixteenth century the mountain was in a constant state of
eruption, the last great activity occurring at the beginning of the
eighteenth century.
The ride across the lake is pleasant,--the castle an interesting
feature,--and by taking it, one discovers a different way to return to
Miyanoshita, but I preferred the route of the morning, as the reverse
views are always reinforcingly interesting.
There were pleasant short walks from our hotel and many very easy
excursions, so one naturally lingers, as long as possible. The friends I
alluded to had been there two weeks. I left with regret.
The third morning we started out in a pouring rain, and so had a closed
jinrikisha; if we missed the beauty of the scenery in our descent to
Yumoto, we took comfort in the fact that we escaped the "bill-board"!
Arriving at Yokohama, I found a whole bevy of friends at the hotel
awaiting the departure of the next steamer for San Francisco. We had all
met at different places, once, twice, or thrice, and thus pleasant
reminiscences and sociability now prevailed. Three were to leave on the
_Korea_, scheduled to sail on June 29th, which augured well for my
homeward passage.
I had intended returning to Tokio, but, remembering each detail of my
former visit vividly, I decided instead to try to see Tokio through
others' eyes. The Emperor and Empress are spoken of with the utmost
respect, the Emperor being progressive in public and political ideas.
The Empress is said to have a fine mind and to be accomplished; in
matters of social importance she has been instrumental in breaking down
many barriers; and while we needs must regret the adoption of Parisian
modes of dress by the court, we must remember it was done with the
distinct purpose of harmonizing the customs of the Orient with those of
the Occident. A diplomat spoke of Tokio as an agreeable place of
residence in every way. Native and foreign hospitality in the home are
absolutely separate; the Japanese wife does not receive general visits,
but her husband may entertain royally at his club, and most elaborate
entertainments are spoken of. The social circles of Tokio and Yokohama
have common interests, as the cities are but a short distance apart and
there is a mutual acquaintance. I met two American ladies who have
resided over thirty-five years in Yokohama, and they are most loyal in
their views.
[Illustration: _Theatre Street in Yokohama_]
In other lands I have visited, I have only dared give a tourist's
impressions fortified by some acknowledged authority, or by those who
have had the advantage of a long-time residence. My Japanese impressions
can only hint at what this wonderful land offers in beauty, in poetic
sentiment, and in development of life. To understand her people, one
must be a student for years; even Lafcadio Hearn admitted, after sixteen
years, that he knew very little of the land and of the people. Every
bow, every courtesy embodies a tradition of ages, handed down from
generation to generation. This truth should do away with the popular
belief that Japanese courtesy is all affectation.
There is another statement that ought to be carefully considered; it is
that the Japanese, as a people, are dishonest. I have heard this opinion
expressed usually in a comparison between the Chinese and the Japanese,
the instance of employment of Chinese bookkeepers and accountants being
cited as proof. I talked with several persons who had ground for their
belief, and the consensus of opinion exonerated the Japanese from so
serious a charge. One said the Japanese, with all their versatility,
have little aptitude for figures and realize it; another said that a
descendant of the old samurai would scorn to take the position of a
bookkeeper, considering the position beneath him. Everywhere in Japan I
left doors and drawers unlocked and never lost an article. At the hotel
in Yokohama, when leaving for a three days' absence, I applied at the
office for keys to the chiffonier and wardrobe. The clerk said, "Does
your door lock?" I replied, "Yes." "You need then have no fear, as the
servants are invariably honest." One gentleman, however, admitted that
in the matter of the verbal contract the Chinaman would consider it to
be as binding as a written one, while the Japanese might break it. We
Americans usually require written contracts at home, and we occasionally
hear of dishonesty and defalcation; but would we for a moment like to be
considered a dishonest people because of these isolated instances?
We were constantly meeting some one who was contrasting the two
countries with a view of emphasizing China's supremacy. Many seemed
jealous because Japan had succeeded in shaking off the shackles imposed
by law and custom, and had made remarkable strides along the lines of
progress. China with her wonderful past, her great resources and
intellectual force, will do the same thing some day, when she emerges
from a tyranny of law and tradition that covers a "modern" period of
three thousand years. The victory of Japan over China in 1894 taught one
lesson; but the Russian-Japanese war was even a greater lesson,--one
that the new party in China has not failed to make use of, and only time
can tell the outcome. The difference between the two nations is one of
kind, not of degree; there is little racial sympathy between them, and
fifty years from now, if one reads the signs correctly, there may be
more sympathy between Japan and Russia than between Japan and China.
[Illustration: _Mountains around Hakona_]
The Japanese are sincere in their unbounded desire to improve,
particularly to acquire a knowledge of English and other languages. In
shops or corners you will see unkempt boys poring over an English primer
or reader. They are all provident as a people, and since the close of
the war the nation has bent every energy toward industrial development.
Considerable has been said about the Japanese war loan; there is
authority for stating that much of the money thus borrowed at that time
was used for industrial expansion, as six railways alone were bought in
1906, and we have seen the amount expended in Manchuria in keeping up a
long line in an alien land at a great expense. Of Japan's commercial
future much might be said. Truly, we of the United States ought to
respect a people who have ideals somewhat like our own.
So many courtesies had been extended to us at the Grand Hotel in
Yokohama that we left with a profound feeling of appreciation. The
steamer _Korea_, of the Pacific Line, was to be our home for sixteen
days. A friend arrived from North China, who became my room-mate, and
the conditions were in every way pleasant. The social life aboard was
similar to that on an English steamer; many games were projected and
prizes given, the most elaborate things being reserved for the Fourth of
July, both for children and adults. Greatly to my surprise, I was
awakened on that morning by a volley of fire-crackers from the end of
the deck. A festive spirit prevailed all day, and in the evening an
extensive concert was given in the salon.
The first real excitement was our arrival at Honolulu on July 9th, where
we were allowed one day. The city, with its beautiful location and
tropical vegetation, is too well known to need description. We went
first by automobile to Mt. Pali, quite a distance in the country; here
we had a wonderful view looking across a long level stretch to a point
beyond which were rice-fields in the stage of early green, and beyond
that a sugar plantation, and beyond that still farther off a mass of
green foliage. The landscape at once marked Honolulu as being somewhat
akin to Java. The mountains here are volcanic in their origin.
[Illustration: _Mount Pali, Honolulu_]
Returning from Pali, we went to the Punch Bowl and Diamond Head, an
extinct volcano. Next, we took a long drive along the sea front to the
beautiful hotel called Moana, where we met friends. The ride led through
one of the principal residence streets, and we noticed beautiful homes
with their extensive grounds and profusion of palms, shrubs, and
flowers. We also saw the former palace of the Queen, which is now
reserved as the Governor's residence. We then went to Young's Hotel for
lunch, and, after that, visited some minor points of interest and some
shops, returning to the steamer in the late afternoon, feeling that
Honolulu was indeed one of the beauty spots of earth. On reaching the
ship, it seemed as if every passenger--man, woman, and child--was
decorated with long wreaths of flowers reaching to the ground; the
flowers are ruthlessly pulled to pieces and strung together to tempt the
tourists. It was really a very beautiful sight, but unfortunately the
flowers soon faded.
The day following we saw the battle fleet, only about two miles distant,
_en route_ for Yokohama; there were fifteen war-vessels, and it was
indeed a wonderful spectacle.
We arrived in the harbor of San Francisco at noon on July 14th, and,
after the usual delay with the health officer, we were soon in the
throes of the custom house, and it was an ordeal never before
experienced. We had been told by the steward on the steamer that we must
strictly follow the regulations laid down in the circular issued by the
Government, December, 1907. I paid the penalty of my honesty, and the
law was strictly enforced. I said to the custom house officer: "The lady
opposite was through nearly an hour ago." He remarked: "She probably
told a good many lies." And that was the consolation I had; having paid
my duty in a resigned frame of mind, believing in a protective tariff, I
departed.
The view of the harbor as we entered had seemed quite as it was of old,
and indeed its beauty impressed me more than ever before; but, as I left
the wharf and drove along some of the streets of the earthquake-stricken
city, there was a heartache, so much of wreck and ruin was evident. My
companion, who was in San Francisco two years before, told me that the
renovation seemed wonderful,--an opinion in which I concurred after
arriving at the St. Francis Hotel, for there were fine blocks newly
built in the vicinity.
I remained a few days in San Francisco, and visited certain familiar
points, most of my friends being out of the city in the month of July. I
went across to the beautiful suburb of Oakland and visited some shops
which seemed to me quite equal (except in their buildings) to those of
old. No one can visit San Francisco at the present time without being
impressed with the energy and enthusiasm displayed and by the amount of
work being accomplished.
I left on July 20th, over the Shasta route of the Southern Pacific. This
way is so widely known for its beauty of scenery that it seems
unnecessary to attempt any description. Mt. Shasta wore a smiling face
the morning of our arrival, the recent heat wave having melted much of
the snow that crowns its rugged summit.
Portland has a splendid location, with mountains and the sea alike
accessible, broad streets, and an unusually fine residence portion. Mt.
Hood was, however, wreathed in smoke on account of the prevailing forest
fires. The railway journey from Portland to Seattle is not lacking in
interest, as there is varied scenery the entire way.
A week in Seattle revived the impression of three years since, but the
city has made wonderful progress meanwhile, not only in growth of
population but in important public buildings and in the wealth of
private residences, particularly on the heights for which Seattle, like
San Francisco, is famous. Mt. Rainier was shrouded in mist and smoke,
but Puget Sound and Lakes Washington and Union added unusual features to
the landscape setting.
A detour of a day to Tacoma showed another beautifully located city high
above Puget Sound, which, having once been very prosperous, passed
through a reactionary stage, but is again alert and vigorous. Tacoma has
also fine buildings and attractive homes, and a great future lies before
it.
The railway journey from Seattle to Bellingham--about one hundred
miles--is interesting, for until we reach Everett we have Puget Sound
to our left and forests to our right, only broken at a few points by
small towns. Then we lose sight of the Sound until within a few miles of
Bellingham. The next reach of intervening waterway is termed Bellingham
Bay, and it furnishes a setting for a city situated both on hills and
lowland, withal very picturesque, Mt. Baker near in view and the Selkirk
range dimly visible. Bellingham is really a combination of four towns,
Whatcom, Fair Haven, Sea Home, and South Bellingham; it is a city of
about thirty-seven thousand inhabitants. The unifying process is going
on, and in a few years its separate identity will be forgotten, for with
its large interests--lumber and the salmon fisheries (here are located
the most important establishments in the world for the canning of
salmon)--Bellingham has a future before it, and my sojourn there is
fraught with many pleasant recollections of courtesies received, aside
from the good cheer of my daughter's home.
The State of Washington, with its fine climate, great forests, and
fertile soil, supplemented by natural beauty of landscape, proved a
revelation to me.
My way eastward lay over the Canadian Pacific Railroad. Three years
previous I had passed days in the Canadian Rockies; so Vancouver,
Glacier, Field, Laggan, and Banff recalled familiar associations, while
the intervening scenery had lost none of its exciting interest. Certain
it is that you rarely find finer mountains, either at home or abroad.
A few hours' stay in St. Paul and the renewal of some pleasant
associations, and I was speeding homeward, arriving in Milwaukee early
on the morning of September 30, 1908, almost a year from the time of my
departure.
In closing let me quote an extract, written eight years ago, on a return
with my daughter from over a year's absence abroad (including the
Western Orient): "Gazing on the lake front at Juneau Park and looking
onward to the terraced slopes of Prospect Avenue, then on to the sky
line of the water-tower, I exclaimed, 'No fairer scene has met my
vision.' At which sentiment the bronze statue of Solomon Juneau before
me seemed to nod approval, as a Founder should."
THE END
FOOTNOTES:
[1] Realizing from personal experience, as well as from observation,
that the mosques are too hurriedly visited and too little understood, an
attempt at classification has here been made, as well as to give them a
certain setting. This may prove a reminiscence to those who are familiar
with the mosques, and an incentive to investigation on the part of those
who are yet to visit Cairo.
[2] In 1877 Delhi acquired prominence as the place where H.M. Queen
Victoria was proclaimed Empress of India. The magnificent Coronation
Durbar of H.M. King Edward VII of England was also held there by Lord
Curzon, Viceroy of India, on January 1, 1900.
[3] This seeming repetition refers to a second Pearl Mosque.
[4] Buitenzorg divides the honor with Batavia of being a capital, and
its beauty of location and fine climate (seven hundred feet above the
sea-level) make it a favorite resort, as well as the centre of the
wealth and fashion of the island. In Buitenzorg one might linger on
indefinitely and never count the days.
[5] There has been a yearly revenue of $20,000,000 for some time.
[6] Mr. Macheeda proved himself worthy of his descent from the Samurai;
always a gentleman and a perfect guide.
[7] For a full and picturesque account of this process, the reader is
referred to Kipling's "From Sea to Sea."
* * * * *
Transcriber's Note:
Every attempt has been made to preserve the author's variant spelling
and punctuation. Obvious spelling error's or place name references have
been corrected as shown below: