week--occurred at this time. It is preceded by a ceremonial tea. We went
at five in the afternoon and were seated around the sides of a large
room. Special places were arranged for the pouring of tea, and presently
a very pretty Japanese girl appeared and proceeded to heat the water,
measure out the tea, put it in the teapot, with many other movements,
pouring a little water on it, all in the most deliberate manner, and
finally the preliminaries were over, and three pretty little maidens
passed the tea around. Another girl in a bright kimono appeared and went
through the process again. This was repeated three or four times. We
then adjourned to a very large room, like a small theatre, with a
gallery at the back, in which we sat. Opposite us was a wide stage, and
on either side was arranged a platform about two feet wide, extending
the whole length of the room. Here sat the musicians dressed as geisha
girls, and the dancers, called Maiko, were also clad in the same manner,
with long artistic kimonos and flowers in their hair. The dancers
entered and proceeded to the stage; then commenced a slow and measured
tread, every movement being graceful. Cherry blossoms were everywhere,
even forming the decorations on the wall. Different figures were
repeated, but all in that deliberate manner, very little like dancing
but more like a devotional exercise. We sat there for about an hour, but
cannot truthfully say that we enjoyed the music, as it was somewhat
discordant.
Our last day in Kyoto was a very full one. We visited shops in the
morning, and in the afternoon went quite a distance to see a historical
procession. We were seated in about the same manner as previously
described. Those who took part in the procession were geisha girls and
novitiates who were to be educated as future geisha girls, their parents
giving them over to the instructors at an early age. This was a very
interesting pageant. First only one or two would appear in a historical
costume of very rich brocade, the hair most elaborately dressed with the
ornaments peculiar to that particular period. Next two little girls
would appear, also dressed in historical costumes. Then, after a
considerable pause, there followed another geisha girl; and thus the
procession continued for over an hour. We did not realize until the day
following that most of the persons who took part were of questionable
morals.
In the evening we attended a Japanese theatre. The play was a historical
tragedy called "The Forty-seven Ronans." The stage was well arranged
and the action very good; it was far more interesting than the Chinese
theatre previously described.
During the week a large Collver party of eighteen arrived at the hotel;
they were later to go to North China and by the Trans-Siberian route to
Russia. Their Director gave a Japanese dinner in which we were included,
Mr. Burton Holmes and his friend being the only other guests present.
The dining-room was in the Japanese portion of the hotel, arranged with
rugs and draperies covering the hardwood floors in quite an artistic
manner, and at the sides were placed cushions on which we were supposed
to sit or kneel. The formal exercises were mostly conducted by geisha
and Maiko girls, three officiating as musicians, several more dancing,
and others serving as attendants. Everything was done in the most
measured manner. First, boxes were placed before us containing four
articles, all dishes of peculiar concoctions. These were intended, we
imagined, for us to look at for a time until the musicians and dancers
appeared. The programme was opened with a musical number, which was
anything but musical; the dancers then took their positions and went
through the usual formal measures. There was more music, then another
dance. This was repeated three or four times. The attendant geisha
girls were seated at intervals in front of the guests.
At a certain signal the music and dancing ceased, and trays were brought
us on which were soup (we imagined the famous bird's-nest), a cup of
saké, two more peculiar dishes, and also chopsticks! By this time the
kneeling process had become rather painful, and I availed myself of the
cup of saké, feeling I needed some stimulant. This was the only
refreshment I tried, but some of the party had the courage to experiment
further. After some deliberation and a little more converse, we arose
from our repast and proceeded to the hotel dining-room, where a
substantial dinner was served us at nine o'clock. This was altogether
the most unique affair of the week and greatly enjoyed by all. The eight
days in Kyoto had flown and we would gladly have remained longer. The
atmosphere of the place was so truly of the past, the temples so very
interesting, and the quaint customs of the olden times so well retained,
that it gave a peculiar charm to the place.
* * * * *
NARA, _April 23d_: A day's excursion to Nara was planned, but a heavy
rain somewhat marred our enjoyment. Nara was once a place of much
importance, the capital of Japan during seven reigns, stretching from
709 to 784 A.D. Its chief attraction now is the great natural beauty of
the place, some fine temples, and a deer park. Kasuga is a noted Shinto
temple. The approach is through the celebrated grounds where were seen
many deer, apparently very tame. A fine avenue of cryptomerias added
much to the dignity of the approach. The temple stands at the end of a
long avenue of stone lanterns, some of which are lighted every night.
The main temple is painted red, with brass lanterns, and surrounded by
cryptomerias. A religious dance, which is held in a building near by, is
one of the many attractive features of this temple. The dress of the
dancers is peculiar, composed of a wide red divided skirt, a white
under-garment, and a long gauze mantle. The hair is worn in a thick
tress down the back, a chaplet of flowers is on the forehead, the face
very much powdered, and in the hands are carried either the branches of
a tree or some tiny bells which are swayed back and forth in a measured
manner. The orchestra consists of three priests.
There is a fine Buddhist temple, renovated in 1898. It is built on the
side of a hill; a flight of steps leads up to it and the whole front is
covered with metal lanterns which produce a weird effect. Not far
distant is a large temple which contains a bronze Buddha called
Dai-butsu. When we saw it, the temple was in a chaotic condition,
undergoing renovation. The height of the Buddha is fifty-three and
one-half feet; the face is sixteen feet long and nine and one-half feet
broad. It is in a sitting position, with right hand uplifted. Nara has a
fine museum, well equipped for the study of early Japanese religions.
* * * * *
YAMADA, _April 23d_: In the afternoon we left for Yamada, the city of
the celebrated Temple of Ise. On arriving, we took quite a drive up the
mountain side to Furuichi and to the Goni-Kwai Hotel, a large,
beautifully situated Japanese hostelry with a European department. This
consisted of eight rooms, furnished comfortably in European style, even
with grates, but we had the novelty of Japanese environment as we walked
down the corridors and passed little Japanese rooms with sliding screens
and open windows. In the morning, we walked up the hill and had a
magnificent view; we left early in jinrikishas for a long day's
programme. First we went through the town, the shops forming part of a
long street, with open fronts and interiors. We then crossed a bridge to
a suburb which contained the celebrated Temple of Ise. We proceeded up a
long avenue, containing torii No. 1, torii No. 2, and torii No. 3,
entering what is called the inner Temple of Ise, which, like all Shinto
places of worship, is very plain on the exterior. We were not
permitted to enter, but were obliged to look through an open enclosure.
Our Japanese guide knelt down, bowed, and clapped his hands three times,
which is the act of devotion of all Shintoites on their approaching any
temple. In the rear there was another temple which we saw only from the
outside; the guide told us that at this shrine Marquis Ito came to offer
thanks for the success of the Chinese-Japanese war in 1894, and that
Admiral Togo also came at the close of the Russian-Japanese war. It is
estimated that at least half a million pilgrims repair annually to the
Temple of Ise, but the educated class seldom visits the place,--perhaps
not more than once in a lifetime.
[Illustration: _The Temple of Ise (Yamada)_]
We then drove eight miles to Futami, a seaside resort with a pretty
Japanese tea-house fronting the water. Here is a peculiar formation of
rock called "The Husband and Wife Rocks," connected by a chain. The
bazar is quite interesting, and we had our luncheon at the tea-house,
served in Japanese style, which means that we would have had nothing but
tea if our thoughtful guide had not brought a basket with us. The return
trip of eight miles was over a little different route, more picturesque
even than the first. Arriving at Yamada, we went to the outer Temple of
Ise. Here, as in the inner temple, there is a large house for sacred
dances.
Many tea-houses in Yamada furnish music during the evening. We visited
a very artistic place, said to be five hundred years old, and there we
saw one of the sacred dances peculiar to that province.
* * * * *
NAGOYA, _April 25th_: We left in the morning for Nagoya, and were guests
at the Nagoya Hotel. This is a flourishing, commercial city, with one of
the longest and widest streets we had seen in Japan. The garrison
occupies the castle, whose approach is the same as in the olden
time--through gates and past moats. This castle was erected in 1610 by
twenty great feudal lords to serve as a residence for Ieyasu's son. Like
other Japanese castles, it is a wooden building, standing on immense
walls which are eighteen feet thick. The castle has been taken by the
Imperial household and is preserved as a monument of historical
interest. The two golden dolphins with silver eyes which can be seen
glittering all over the city from the top of the five-story donjon were
made in 1610 at the expense of the celebrated general, Kato Kiyomosa,
who also built the donjon, or keep.
[Illustration: _Nagoya Castle_]
The apartments of the castle are very beautiful. The sliding screens
between the rooms and the wooden doors separating the different suites
are all adorned with paintings of flowers and birds. Leaving these
apartments, we visited the historic donjon, a gloomy building of stone
on the exterior, but furnished with wooden staircases within. The fifth
story commands an extensive view of the town, the sea, and the vast
plain,--rice-fields and mountains stretching in the distance. The roofs
of the keep are of copper, and its massive gates are cased in iron.
Nagoya is noted for its manufacture of porcelain and cloisonné. There is
one celebrated Buddhist temple, Higashi Hongwanji, and the Museum. There
are also extensive parks and parade grounds. In the evening of our stay
there, the unexpected occurred. We had known for some time of the
approaching Imperial Cherry Blossom Garden Party at Tokio. A telegram
arrived, stating that our invitations awaited us in Yokohama; we were
most fortunate, since they were in great demand. A hurried consultation
followed, but as the remainder of the party expected to sail for San
Francisco on May 13th, they declined to change their programme, while I
accepted the invitation, having two weeks' more time in Japan during
June; I regretfully bade adieu to the party, and the following morning
proceeded to Yokohama.
* * * * *
YOKOHAMA, _April 26th_: The next two weeks I was to be thrown upon my
own responsibility. I arrived at Yokohama in the evening and
anticipated a departure the following morning for Tokio. A pouring
rain, however, caused an unexpected postponement. There were many
disappointed guests in the Tokio hotels which were crowded in view of
the great annual event. This is said to be very beautiful in all its
appointments, the profusion of cherry blossoms being an attraction, as
is the presence of the Emperor and Empress. The rain abating at noon,
the grounds of the Crown Prince's palace were opened and the persons who
were in Tokio availed themselves of the privilege of visiting them. A
fine collation was served. The Emperor and Empress, however, did not
appear, and the usual extremely formal ceremonies were dispensed with.
It is the custom to give the inmates of the hospitals in Tokio a rare
feast from what is left of the banquet. I had a busy day in Yokohama,
which I found an attractive modern city, with beautiful shops, pleasant
hotels, and a great crowd of visitors. I left early the following
morning, April 28th, for Nikko.
* * * * *
NIKKO, _April 28th_: The sky was overcast when we started, and before
noon there was a heavy rain which prevented any enjoyment of the really
fine landscape. The Japanese proverb in substance runs: "Do not use the
word 'magnificent' until you have seen Nikko." This had been ringing in
my ears all the way, and to be compelled to proceed through the long
street of the village in a closed jinrikisha was tantalizing. The Nikko
Hotel was to have been my destination, but I met friends on the train
and was persuaded to accompany them to the new Kanaya Hotel, situated
nearer the village on a height. My programme in Nikko could only include
three days; hence I decided that a study of the various temples, a
general view of the city, and an excursion to Lake Chuzenji must
suffice.
The following morning the sun was shining, and I departed early to visit
the temples. The way lay down to the river Daiya-gawa. From the bridge
in actual use and at a short distance I beheld the "Red Bridge,"
formerly lacquered and having brass ornaments, sacred to royal use only,
and held in veneration by the Japanese. A long avenue of cryptomerias
followed. This tree is like the redwood of California when used in the
interior of a building; indeed, after a long period of time, the
coloring is precisely the same. This I noticed in the Imperial palaces
at Kyoto.
I walked up the avenue with a feeling of awe, and it seemed as if the
whole atmosphere of Nikko was surcharged with an element of sanctity,
and that no one could gaze on the mountains and the groves of
cryptomerias without being somewhat better than before. At the end of
the avenue the perspective is wonderful, for one looks through a series
of great stone toriis, gray with age, and sees along the way objects
that are of interest, a five-story pagoda being the most striking. This
approach is to the great Temple of Ieyasu, the illustrious Shogun and
founder of the Tokugawa dynasty and, like the other great temple and
mausoleum of his grandson, Iemitzu (farther on), was erected in the
seventeenth century, at a time when the art of building shrines was at
its perfection, as was the work in lacquer and bronze, wood carving and
decorative painting. Every detail is perfect, and the great predominance
of red and gold lacquer with its setting of green produced a striking
effect, but without being in the least garish. Indeed, the keynote to
all the buildings and interiors we have seen in Japan, of any age
whatsoever, has been chasteness of design and harmony. If we sometimes
find a discordant note in modern Japanese art, I fear Western taste has
had some influence, if it be true that the producer ever seeks to please
the purchaser.
[Illustration: _The way to the Temple, Ieyasu_]
[Illustration: _Kokamon: Iemitzu Temple_]
With all this perfection on every side, it becomes even more difficult
to give any adequate description, so that an outline comprising only
general details will be suggested. A quotation explains my position
fully. Dr. Dresser once wrote: "Any words that I can use must fail to
convey any adequate idea of the consciousness of the work, the
loveliness of the compositions, the harmoniousness of the colors, and
the beauty of the surroundings here before me; and yet the adjectives
which I have tried to heap one upon another, in the hope of conveying to
the reader what I--an architect and ornamentist--feel when contemplating
these matchless shrines, must appear, I am afraid, altogether
unreasonable." The difficulty is further added to by the fact that there
are in all six groups of temples with numerous associated buildings and
gateways in the near vicinity, although Ieyasu and Iemitzu are the most
famous.
The approach to Ieyasu Temple is most unusual. Within the two courts,
each with toriis and stone steps, are many notable adjuncts to the
temples, the five-story pagoda, one hundred and four feet high, being a
marvel of rich lacquered walls. It has peculiar brass-trimmed roofs and
bells hanging from every angle. Three artistic buildings are used as
storehouses, where articles employed in worship, pictures, and many
treasures of Ieyasu are deposited. Near by is a finely carved gateway
leading to a beautiful carved water cistern which is cut out of one
solid piece of granite and sheltered by a roof supported on twelve
square pillars of stone, all erected in 1618. A beautifully decorated
building behind this is the depository for the complete collection of
the Buddhist scriptures, contained in a fine revolving octagonal
bookcase with red lacquered panels and gilt pillars. In the centre of
this court stands a fine bronze torii. A flight of steps gives access to
the second court. Just inside of this are two stone lions in the act of
leaping down; on the right stand a bell tower, a bronze candelabrum
presented by the King of Loochoo, and another bell presented by the King
of Korea; there is also a bronze candelabrum from Holland. This
diversity of gifts indicates the general interest at that time in this
shrine. All of these articles are of very unusual style of workmanship.
At the left extremity of this same platform stands the Temple of
Wakushi, dedicated to the patron saint of Ieyasu, for which reason its
Buddhist emblems have been left intact. The building is a blaze of gold
and harmonious colors. Stone steps lead up to the exquisitely beautiful
gate called Yomei-mon; it has a fence on each side. Passing through the
gateway, we entered the third court, in which the Buddhist priests used
to offer liturgies on the occasions of the two great annual festivals.
In this court are also two buildings, one containing a stage for the
performance of the sacred dance, and the other an altar for burning the
fragrant cedar while prayers were recited. Next we have the Karu-mon
or Chinese gate. It gives admittance to the main shrines. The folding
doors of the oratory are lavishly decorated with arabesques of peonies,
in gilt relief.
[Illustration: _A five-story pagoda_]
The chapel is a large matted room, forty-two feet long by twenty-seven
feet deep, with an antechamber at each end. The chapel and the
antechambers are all very profusely decorated with pictures on the
walls, with carved panels and painted ceilings. The Holy of Holies of
this temple is accessible to the public only by special permit. It is
composed of three chambers, and here Japanese Buddhist art is exhibited
in its perfection,--a blaze of gold and color, with its elaborate
paintings of court personages, its precious woods, inlaid and carved,
and its richly lacquered pillars and splendid metal work--the whole a
marvel of detail, all the more marvellous because it is in perfect
preservation. Now that it has been changed into a Shinto shrine and is
under the patronage of the Government, the Buddhas and attendant Buddhas
of the olden time are no longer to be seen.
An old mossy staircase and a time-worn pavement lead to Ieyasu's tomb,
before which stand two long tables. Here are placed the usual bronze
ornaments, consisting of a stork, an incense burner, and a vase of
bronze lotus flowers. The tomb, shaped like a small pagoda, has a
single bronze casting of a light color, produced, it is said, by a
mixture of gold. Leaving the mausoleum, I passed down through the courts
and gateways until I came to the avenue of cryptomerias, visiting a
number of temples on the way, and finally I reached Iemitzu's temple. A
massive stone staircase and a fine gateway are among the many details of
an attractive exterior that claim attention. The temple is much less
magnificent than Ieyasu's, but a more perfect representation of the
Buddhist art, inasmuch as here can be seen the interior as it was
originally. After the restoration in 1886, the interiors of all the
other temples were changed to meet the requirements of the Shinto faith,
that being the State religion. The tomb is reached by a flight of steps
running up the side of the wall. It is of the same general style as that
of Ieyasu. In the afternoon a walk back of the temple of Ieyasu revealed
more stone lanterns, shrines, and toriis.
At Nikko the homes are attractive, with their open space and their
verandas. The Park and Botanical Garden are also not without interest.
Sometimes a shrine could be seen, and with the inmates dressed in pretty
kimonos, it was truly a fascinating picture, unlike anything that had
elsewhere struck our fancy. The invariable smile, bow, and courtesy that
always greet you place a finishing and charming touch to the whole.
[Illustration: _The gate called Yomei-mon_]
The bazar or long street of shops was enticing, with so many souvenirs
to choose from. The thoroughfare itself presented a never-ending
panorama of carts, packhorses, natives, pilgrims, and tourists.
There were several tempting excursions of two or three miles each, the
most celebrated of which was to Lake Chuzenji, eight miles distant. This
required an early morning departure in a jinrikisha. The ride there was
through a region which affords a fine example of the Japanese method of
cultivating the soil. The little homes were attractive. Potatoes, rice,
and millet seemed to be the principal crops. Chuzenji Lake is a marvel
of beauty, with its many walks along the shore. Luncheon was served at
the hotel. It is estimated that ten thousand pilgrims come to the
village during July and August to make the ascent to the sacred
mountain, Nantaisan, two thousand feet above the sea-level. This is not
so very difficult, since at points there are stairways that give ready
access. Shrines and tea-houses are stationed all along the road, as the
Japanese never neglect creature comforts. Eight miles further on is
situated Yunoto village and the lake which bears the same name and is
celebrated for its hot springs. This place is said to be as attractive
as Lake Chuzenji. We left Nikko on an early morning train with a strong
desire some day to return and make a more protracted stay.
* * * * *
TOKIO, _April 30th_: Leaving Nikko, with an altitude of two thousand
feet higher than the sea, for Tokio, one hundred miles distant and at
sea-level, was a decided drop. The day was bright and the views from the
car window gave one an ever-varying panorama, consisting of mountains, a
long avenue of tall cryptomerias that seemed to extend for miles,
cultivated fields, and luxuriant vegetation freshened by the recent
rain. Nature put forth her loveliest Spring tints, to which cherry
blossoms ever and anon gave a touch of color. Arriving at Tokio in the
afternoon, and going to the Imperial Hotel, I had a two days' reunion
with eight of the "party" who had already arrived there. We took a
general drive on the first afternoon, past the palace built on the ruins
of the old Shogun palace, in its new guise a long rambling building of
yellow brick. The old gateways with their towers were at the front
entrance and were a feature of the scene. The arrangement of the rooms
in the interior of the palace was said to be pleasing, the dining-room
being unusually large. The walls and decorations are also fine, but the
furnishings, a mixture of Japanese and European styles, are not so
harmonious. We also passed the Crown Prince's palace, and then went on
from Hibiya Park to the street on which are situated the brick buildings
of the Naval Department, the Judicial Department, and the Courts of
Justice.
[Illustration: _The Imperial Palace at Tokio_]
We saw the Russian Embassy, the Chinese Legation, and also some palaces
and residences of many officers and foreign embassies. This
neighborhood, called Nagata-cha, is the most fashionable in Tokio. Near
the palace lies a garden planted with azaleas, and also containing some
trellises wholly covered in season with wistaria. We also passed a fine
Shinto temple and several statues, and, on an eminence, saw the Russian
Cathedral, consecrated in 1891.