proceeded to the Hotel Astor; then we left almost immediately for a
general drive, as we were to remain only for the day. We first visited
the native quarter, where the streets were narrow; but, in comparison
with Canton, they seemed much less crowded. We saw the exterior of some
temples and an interesting tea-house and bazar which were similar in
arrangement to those in Canton, and contained about the same articles.
The native town is very tame in comparison with Canton. Before luncheon
we visited two large silk houses, where we examined a remarkable display
of all kinds of silks and embroideries. After luncheon we proceeded to
take what is called the "Bubbling Well Drive," first exploring two
interesting tea-houses, one called the "Mandarin Teahouse" being very
elegant in all of its appointments. It had a garden arranged in
conventional Chinese style, with a rockery, miniature lake, and dwarf
trees. On the ride to Bubbling Well Road, we saw many beautiful homes of
modern European style, Shanghai being considered a very desirable
residence for foreigners. After visiting other points of interest, in
the late afternoon we returned to our steamer, having had time only for
a bird's-eye view of Shanghai and a brief outline of its places of
interest.
Shanghai is situated on the left bank of a stream called the Hiangpo, a
tributary of the Yangtse River. Formerly there were an English
settlement and an American settlement, the latter with no legal claims.
These are now merged into the foreign settlement. There is also a French
colony, with its numerous concessions.
The history of the city may be divided into two sections, the
pre-foreign period and the foreign period. In both there has been a
continuous increase of prosperity and importance, due to furnishing
unusual facilities for fostering trade. In the early years Shanghai was
subject to frequent raids and disturbances, and in 1543 there was a
general devastation. Foreign residence was sanctioned only as a result
of the first Chinese war. The signing of the treaty of Nanking threw
open Shanghai and four other ports to foreign trade, the latter being
Swatow, Amoy, Foochow, and Ningpoo, but these have never acquired the
importance of Shanghai, which has the advantage of being at the mouth of
the Yangtse River.
In 1849 a concession was granted to the French, but as late as 1850
there were only one hundred and fifty-seven foreign residents, and
twenty-five foreign firms doing business. Shanghai is distinctively a
commercial city, with a flat location, no background, and an artificial
foreground of solid rows of business buildings. The approach to the city
reveals a succession of mills, docks, wharves, engineering works, and
buildings of every description, except those of artistic and pleasing
appearance. The principal streets, the Bund and the Nanking Road, run at
right angles to each other, and the chief thoroughfares run parallel to
these two. The Bund is broad, fronting the water, and is a popular
thoroughfare. The Nanking Road deserves special mention. It begins as a
narrow passage-way with foreign business houses on each side; it then
widens, and has Chinese shops, with, later on, the recreation ground,
Town Hall, and Library. Farther on it is known as Bubbling Well Road.
Shanghai, as a residence for the European, is said to be the finest city
in the East as regards modern conveniences, finer than any place east of
Suez, but it is a city of contrasts. No centre can offer a wider choice
for enjoyment,--the public recreation ground covering eight thousand
acres. Within this enclosure is the race course, where cricket,
football, hockey, tennis, golf, polo, and baseball are played; and
numberless pavilions, dressing-rooms, and a swimming-bath are included
in the adjacent building--all free to the public. There are in addition
many clubs of a private nature, some social and others musical, and many
of them owning fine buildings. Matters of education are not neglected,
and the public schools even include kindergartens. There are likewise
private schools, but the provisions for educating Chinese children are
very inadequate, and mostly of the mission order. The Roman Catholic
missions have excellent schools and well-equipped buildings. There is a
fine American College, St. John's, that grants degrees. Some
institutions are managed by the Chinese, the principal one being the
Imperial Polytechnic College, which is housed in a fine block of
buildings. There are also various organizations of an intellectual
order, such as the Royal Asiatic Society, which is affiliated with a
society of the same name in England; and an American Asiatic Society to
further interests in the Far East. Architects, engineers, and
missionaries likewise have their guilds.
[Illustration: _Mogi Road at Nagasaki_]
The religious life of the settlement is very diversified, and includes
Jews, Parsees, Mohammedans, Greek and Roman Catholics, and members of
the Anglican Church; the various forms of the Protestant Church are
represented, and most of the missions have their headquarters here.
We returned to our steamer in the evening, and sailed on for Kobe, our
point of departure, but we had "stop-over privileges at Nagasaki." Our
intervening day was passed mostly on deck, the weather being fine.
* * * * *
NAGASAKI, _April 8th_: We arrived at Nagasaki on the morning of April
8th in a pouring rain which rather dampened our ardor, inasmuch as we
had a full day's programme arranged. We went ashore, however, and
proceeded to the Cliff House for a short time, but as the storm
increased we returned to the steamer somewhat crestfallen. The _Korea_
was taking on coal when we left, but on our return there was an ominous
silence, and we learned that the workers, thoroughly drenched, had
struck and that the vessel would be compelled to remain another day.
Hope revived amongst us, and on the following morning the sun was
shining brightly. This was the only time I have known a strike to be of
benefit.
The process of taking on coal was very peculiar. Ladders were placed up
the sides of the steamer, relays of men and women were arranged in nine
rows, counting from the bottom; coal was placed in baskets and passed up
in fire-bucket fashion with the utmost quickness and dexterity. It
continued incessantly until the work was completed. There were more
women than men working, and they all wore pointed white handkerchiefs
over their heads.
A steam launch conveyed us to Nagasaki, and once there we took a
jinrikisha for a memorable mountain ride of five miles, along a road
called the Mogi. We ascended gradually from the sea-level, and soon the
loveliest view was spread before us. On our right, looking downward,
were the sea and the city rising in terraces from the water, the
hillsides covered with foliage, all sparkling in the morning light; on
our left, foothills, and beyond these the mountains. We stopped at a
Japanese tea-house to rest the jinrikisha men, and soon after, we came
to a point in the landscape said to be represented in the opera of
"Madame Butterfly." Reaching the Mogi, we found another tea-house, and
we all alighted and roamed around the point, where we had a magnificent,
far-reaching panorama. The descent was quite as enjoyable, and
altogether we voted the ride an entire success.
We next visited some bazars. The temples were omitted, but I later
visited them on my return trip to North China. Then we returned to the
steamer for a late luncheon, and the bevy of animated coal-heavers were
still at work. The day following was our last on the steamer, and our
way lay through one portion of the Inland Sea, meaning a narrow
waterway, the shores of which were visible on both sides.
[Illustration: _The main street in Kobe_]
* * * * *
KOBE: We arrived at Kobe on the evening of April 10th, and fell at once
into the grasp of the custom-house authorities, who proved, however,
very lenient. Our valued Director here left us to go on to Yokohama and
was succeeded by a Japanese guide, Mr. Macheeda, who took charge of four
of the party, small groups and native guides being the policy in
Japan.[6] Our abiding-place in Kobe was the Oriental Hotel.
The following morning we went out early in jinrikishas for a general
ride through Kobe, going first to the distant waterfall in the
mountains, which really proved a fine spectacle. Next we visited
temples, then some shops or bazars, and a Satsuma studio, where the
whole art process was explained to us by a most courteous Japanese, who
spoke English perfectly. All the appointments of the studio were truly
Japanese, including the sliding windows and doors, the hardwood floor
and the matting walls. Here tea and little cakes were served to us.
We then went to another studio with a different interior. This was
larger and more pretentious. Again the process was explained to us in
the same courteous way, and we realized that we were now in a land where
good manners prevailed. A heavy rain unfortunately set in, and we were
compelled to return to the hotel.
* * * * *
ONOMICHI: The following day we took the train for Onomichi, arriving at
our destination in the evening. Here we were to have a new experience,
the hotel being strictly Japanese, with not a word of English spoken.
First, we were asked to remove our shoes and put on slippers, the
alternative being cotton coverings for our own shoes. I preferred the
latter. The house was quite large, consisting of two stories. The first
floor was, however, occupied by the family. The second floor was
entirely devoted to our party, whose suite included several rooms with
movable screens so arranged that one large room could be converted into
two. There were sliding windows, paper taking the place of glass.
[Illustration: _The fort and castle at Osaka_]
Our beds were the futons, composed of dark red comforters, one below and
one above us, with another hard roll for the head. There were no chairs
in the sleeping-rooms, but washstands had been improvised, there being
dressing-rooms outside of some of the rooms. Concession was made us in
the improvised dining-room, a table and chairs being reserved for our
special use. On one side of this room there was a slightly raised floor,
and here were pretty little side tables and bronze ornaments. Our guide
had very considerately brought some canned goods with him and also some
bread; the family, however, furnished us with eggs and tea. The mother
and two daughters were bright and sunny, as were the little Japanese
maids who attended to the menial work. It was altogether a novel
experience. The next morning, however, the rain was coming down in
torrents, and there was no possibility of our taking a steamer for a
trip of several hours to the sacred island of Miyajima, so we
reluctantly boarded the morning train for Osaka, arriving there late in
the afternoon.
* * * * *
OSAKA, _April 13th_: The next morning dawned brightly, and we left in
jinrikishas for a general tour, first visiting the fort where stands a
noted castle, very picturesque in appearance. We then visited the
Exposition of Industrial Arts, which did not seem unlike an exposition
at home in its general arrangements. The goods displayed, however, were
very different. Then we had a ride along Cherry Blossom Avenue, the
trees being laden with the pale pink flower. We visited bazars and noted
the general aspect of the place, canals being a dominant characteristic
of the landscape. We saw a particularly fine temple among many others.
Osaka is a commercial city of great wealth and is more celebrated from a
business point of view than from its artistic aspect.
After luncheon we went to Yaba Meczan's Satsuma studio. This artist is
celebrated, having taken prizes at both the Chicago and St. Louis
Expositions, and his work surpassed any I had ever seen. The decoration
on some of the vases was so fine that it required a glass to bring out
the full and minute detail. In designing and decorating these vases the
work has to be done with a magnifying glass, which is a very severe
strain on the eyes. We then proceeded up what is called Theatre Street,
so named because of the situation of several playhouses in the midst of
prominent shops. Banners and signs were displayed in every available
space, all of different colors, and the general effect was very unusual
as they floated in the breeze. Later in the afternoon we took a train
for Kyoto.
* * * * *
KYOTO, _April 15th_: The following morning another heavy rain greeted
us. We were now in the Japanese city which retains more of the old life
and customs than any other, not having been spoiled as yet by modern
innovations. The bad weather abating in the afternoon, we went to the
temple Nishi Otani. This is situated on quite an eminence. We crossed a
stone bridge spanning a lotus pond, and walked up an inclined way paved
with granite, a flight of steps leading to the handsome main gate which
faces a strikingly carved two-storied structure. We took our places on
the steps and awaited the arrival of the procession of Buddhist priests,
this being the chief object of our visit. They came in large numbers,
walking two by two, and arrayed in the most gorgeous brocades, no two
being of the same pattern. Around the waist they wore wide sashes of
equal richness and beauty, and the effect was truly very striking, as
they walked up the hill. This was one of the features of the rite of
commemoration, the ceremonies continuing through the week. We then
visited some shops, of which there are a large number, all of them very
interesting.
[Illustration: _The rapids near Kyoto_]
[Illustration: _Bamboo Avenue in Kyoto_]
Shintoism is the State religion, and the following morning we visited
one of the temples, named Kitano Tenjin. Entering through the great
stone torii or gateway, we found stone lanterns, together with stone and
bronze bulls presented by devotees. Another torii and a couple of
two-storied gates were passed through, the last being called the Gate of
the Three Luminaries, or the Sun, Moon, and Stars. This was the entrance
to one side of the square, the other three sides being formed of
colonnades. It might be well to explain that a torii consists of two
upright columns several feet apart. At the top is a cross-bar extending
out about one foot on each side and two feet lower than the top of the
columns.
There were many other details noted by us, and it was perhaps the most
effective Shinto temple that we saw. We then visited Kinkakuji, more
commonly called the "Golden Pavilion." This is Buddhist in character,
and there is a monastery surrounded by a fine garden in which is another
pavilion. The garden was artistic, in the middle of which is a lake with
pine-clad shores and pine-clad islets; this indeed seemed unusual so
near a large city. The lake is usually filled with a flowering plant
called junsai and is stocked with carp, which always appear on the
approach of visitors, expecting to be fed.
All the ancient buildings have disappeared except the Pavilion, which
was restored in 1906. It stands on the water's edge and is
three-storied. Each floor is furnished with statuettes of different
saints and has mural decorations by Kano Masanobu. There are very
unusual features connected with this temple. The so-called apartments
are in two sets,--one attached to the main building with pictorial
sliding screens symbolic of Chinese sages and other subjects by Kano.
There are also drawings of birds and trees, and ornaments done by
celebrated artists. Folding screens are in common use. One artistic
group represents three religious teachers, Confucius, Buddha, and Lao
Tze. After showing these art treasures to us the priests served tea,
while we sat around in true Japanese style.
[Illustration: _The Golden Pavilion_]
After luncheon we went to still another very interesting Buddhist
temple, Kiyomizu-dera. Kyoto abounds in fine temples. We left our
jinrikishas at the foot of the hill and walked up a long, high lane
called Teapot Street because in all the little shops bordering the
thoroughfare china and teapots are displayed, forming the favorite
purchases of the country people who frequent this temple. The building
is situated in a striking position and commands a view of the entire
city. The two-storied gateway at the top of the steps was restored in
1897. Outside this gate are two pagodas, each three-storied, and the
large green bell, dating from 1624. We then passed up through a
colonnade to the main temple, whose rough, hewn columns and bare floor
are most unusual. The whole style is original and unique. The great
festival day here is on the 17th of August, when a classic concert is
given, the musicians being dressed in various unique costumes. They are
seated opposite each other in the wings like the two sides of a choir. A
dancing stage extends the whole length of its front, and this opens
into a hall full of _ex-voto_ pictures, some of which possess great
artistic merit. Directly behind this main temple are several other
temples and an eleven-storied pagoda which it is impossible to describe
here adequately.
On our homeward way we visited the Art Museum. This and the museum at
Nara contain the very best collections of early Japanese statuary. The
exhibits have been taken or borrowed from time to time from various
Buddhist temples in Kyoto and the surrounding provinces. Some date from
the seventh and eighth centuries, when Buddhist carving was at the
height of its excellence. There are also screens, ancient manuscripts,
swords, armor, musical instruments, coins, imperial robes, and
miscellaneous articles.
To vary the programme a little, we made an excursion on the following
day to Lake Biwa, some miles distant. This is a very celebrated body of
water in Japan. We had our choice between returning to Kyoto by the more
exciting way of the canal with its long tunnels or going to Otsu. We
chose the latter.
[Illustration: _The largest pine tree in the world at Lake Biwa_]
Near Otsu there is the largest pine tree in the world, and it has been
trained in the peculiar conventional manner employed by the Japanese.
Here we had a picnic luncheon and then drove some distance to the
heights of Otsu, where one hundred and thirty monasteries and temples
are said to be grouped. We walked up the incline, passing many temples
and seeing a very ancient bronze bell of great historic interest.
Descending, we went through the village of Otsu, which has quite a
reputation, since it was the scene of what might have been a very
serious accident to the present Emperor of Russia, then czarevitch. He
was accompanied by Prince George of Greece, now King George, when
savagely attacked by an insane man. Certain disaster would have followed
had it not been for the presence of mind of the Prince.
We reached Kyoto at 5 P.M., having had a long, though extremely
delightful day. Excursions being in order, we went the next day to
"shoot the rapids ending at Arashi-yama." We had various means of
transportation during the day, jinrikishas, trains, and a short railway
trip which was highly picturesque, the line running along just above the
dashing river. At Hozu we took the boat for the descent of the rapids
down to the landing-place of Arashi-yama, and this was a most exciting
experience, the passage taking about an hour and a half. Great care had
to be observed by the pilots of the boats, as there were several parties
going down and many others returning. The shores of the river were very
interesting, being high wooded hills which were abloom. Arashi-yama is
famous for its cherry blossoms. We had a picnic luncheon here and
returned to Kyoto by train.
On Easter Sunday I attended a union service, but afterwards learned that
there was a special commemoration at St. Mary's, and that the Episcopal
Bishop Partridge was at the hotel. There seemed to be a great deal of
friendly feeling between the different religious denominations in Kyoto;
a little booklet given us at the union service containing information
with regard to all the churches, including the Episcopal. Easter
afternoon we attended a remarkable Buddhist ceremony in the Chroin
Temple on a high hill. At least seventy-five priests were in attendance,
all arrayed in their gorgeous brocaded robes and sitting in parallel
lines opposite each other. It seemed to be an intoned service. We were
separated from the officiants by an anteroom with a high railing, but we
could observe all that was going on. This was a part of the ceremonial
of the week to which I referred in connection with the Buddhist
procession. After watching for a while, we walked about and saw several
adjacent temples, marked by their spaciousness.
A visit to the Nijo Castle, by permit, was of great interest. It dates
from 1601, and was built by Ieyasu of Nikko memory for his use when
visiting Kyoto. It has even in modern times considerable historical
interest, as it was here, on April 6, 1868, that the Emperor, on
obtaining his ancestral rights by the revolution then in progress, met
the Council of State and swore to grant a deliberative assembly and to
decide all measures by public opinion. For a long period Nijo Castle was
used by the prefecture and was greatly damaged. Since 1883, it has been
one of the Imperial Summer palaces. The apartments of the castle are
very beautiful; the sliding screens between the rooms and the wooden
doors separating the different sets of apartments are all adorned with
paintings of flowers, birds, and the like, done by artists of the Kano
School. There is beautiful metal work, and the reception hall is
decorated with representations of street life in Kyoto and other cities.
The ceiling is lacquered.
We also procured a permit to visit the Imperial Palace, which is placed
in a large garden like a park. This was spacious, but not so artistic as
Nijo; there were many different buildings. We visited several, one known
as the Temple of 33,333 Buddhas, and after gazing at the long array of
walls and corridors with their ornaments, we accepted the estimate as
accurate. One afternoon the great Shinto procession of the year was in
progress. We took jinrikishas for quite a long ride, and then arrived at
a small suburb of Kyoto, where we had places engaged on the upper
gallery of a house. There were great crowds of people, and we waited a
long time before the arrival of the first shrine. There were five in
all. These shrines were large and ornamental, with a great deal of gilt
about them, and they were placed on poles borne upon the shoulders of
men. Four other small shrines followed, and before the pageant was over,
the afternoon was nearly consumed. This procession was on its way to the
great Temple of Inari, several miles distant.
One morning we devoted to visiting two cloisonné studios and some curio
shops. The first studio, Nakamura's, was very artistically arranged; one
large room encircled a miniature garden laid out in true Japanese style
with dwarf trees, rockeries, and a tiny little lake. We saw the whole
process of manufacture and it was also explained to us.[7] The specimens
were very rare and beautiful. Tea and little cakes were served and great
courtesy extended to us. The second studio was similar to this, but a
little larger, and again we saw the garden, and again tea was served.
Several interesting curio shops were visited, and we then went to the
large establishment of Yamanaka, who had fine collections at the Chicago
and St. Louis Expositions. We then went over some silk stores, the
manufacture of silk being the chief industry; one may purchase all kinds
of embroidered goods.
[Illustration: _Kasuga Temple_]