another four hours, and an eight-mile excursion will later be alluded
to. The special objects of interest may be mentioned, with an indication
of what the ruins represent, as they may have general value. The sacred
road is a feature of the place, for it is the pathway the pilgrims have
trod for over two thousand years. The Thuparama is the oldest and most
venerated of all the dagobas. The largest one is the Jaytawanarama,
built about the close of the third century A.D. by King Mahicena. The
height, including the pedestal, is two hundred and forty-nine feet, and
its diameter three hundred and sixty feet; moreover, the contents of the
dome of brickwork and the platform on which it stands are said to
contain twenty million cubic feet. It is also stated that, with the
facilities which modern inventions supply for economizing labor, the
building of such a structure at present would take five hundred
bricklayers from six to seven years, and would involve an expenditure of
at least $5,000,000. Only the glory of the old outline is now left, and
its four chapels have crumbled almost past recognition.
[Illustration: _Near the Sacred Road, Thuparama Dagoba_]
Of interest is the Isurumuniya Temple, constructed by King
Dewenipiatissa, 300 B.C. The temple is carved out, and circles around a
formation of natural rock; its shrine is approached by two terraces, the
steps being in a state of fine preservation. The outer wall of the upper
terrace is ornamented with a remarkable series of seventeen mural
frescos in low relief, the subjects being grotesque, and there is a
large tablet on the south wall consisting of a group of three women, a
man, and attendants. Close to the entrance of the shrine is a large
sitting figure holding a horse, and carved out of the face of the rock
are the heads of four elephants in low relief. The stone doorway is a
fine specimen of carving, and the pillars which support the porch in
front of it are beautifully proportioned. The temple has been restored.
A priest's dwelling-house is near, and the priest was officiating at the
shrine at the time of my visit. I was alone; he signified that I was to
keep silent, and then offered up a prayer to Buddha in my behalf, for
which I was doubtless expected to deposit a coin in a contribution box.
As I did not disappoint the expectant priest, he courteously presented
me with his card, and this is the name inscribed thereon:
"Sangharakkhita Mahathera, the High Priest of the Isurumuni Vihara."
Another interesting dagoba with a most unpronounceable name is now being
restored through the pious contributions of pilgrims. The present height
is one hundred and fifty feet, with a diameter of three hundred and
seventy-nine feet. It was originally surrounded by two large paved
platforms, the inner one being raised above the other. Around the outer
wall there was originally a complete circle of elephants, each elephant
being furnished with tusks of real ivory. The Moonstone Steps are finely
preserved. There is still a striking frieze of lions running along the
upper border of the platform, and around the base of the dagoba are five
large upright statues and a small sitting one, the tallest said to be
that of King Dutugemuna.
There are wonderful tales told of miraculous work done through the
celebrated bo-tree, a branch of the oldest historical tree in the world.
It was planted two hundred and forty-five years before Christ, and its
story has been handed down in a continuous series of authentic
chronicles. This is believed by Buddhists to be a branch of the sacred
bo-tree in Buddh Gaya, India, under which Prince Siddhartha sat on the
day he attained Buddha-hood, this branch having been sent from India; it
has been sacredly treated, enriched with stone carvings and braces, and
honored with magnificent ceremonies by repeated dynasties; it has also
been spared during the successive invasions of the land. The Chinese
traveller and author, Fahiam, visited it in the fifth century, and has
left an authentic record of it as well as of some buildings in this
ruined city. There are fine columns and many remains of the King's
palace still standing; in addition to which, the monasteries and tanks
all show artistic skill.
[Illustration: _The Moonstone Steps_]
Perhaps a clearer idea of the former splendor may be had by a brief
recital of what chroniclers and archæologists prove to have been the
plan of the Buddhist Brazen Temple, now a collection of sixteen hundred
monolithic granite pillars, standing twelve feet from the ground and
arranged in lines of forty each way; they cover a space measuring two
hundred and thirty-one feet north to south and two hundred and
thirty-two feet east to west. This formed the foundation of the great
Brazen Temple, erected by King Dutugemuna in the second century B.C.
These columns supported the building, nine stories in height, and
containing one thousand dormitories for priests. The roof was of sheet
copper, and the walls were embellished with beads which shone
resplendent like gems. The great hall was supported on golden pillars
resting on lions, and in the centre was an ivory throne with a golden
sun and silver moon on either side, while above it glittered Imperial
Chinta, the white canopy of dominion. It was destroyed, then rebuilt,
and the second restoration occurred in the twelfth century, thus showing
the vicissitudes which this and other ruins have passed through.
The excursion to Mihintale, eight miles distant, was made alone with a
guide, at six in the morning, the other members of the party preferring
another excursion. The drive was mostly through what was termed a
jungle, meaning a roadway cut through the forest and left in its natural
state; hence there was a tangle of vines and underbrush, and the effect
was very fine with the great variety which the tropical vegetation
affords. Reaching our destination, we left the carriage for a walk of
three quarters of a mile through a forest to the base of a mountain from
which ascends eighteen hundred and sixty-four wide marble steps, divided
into four flights, with a landing for each, paths leading to the left or
right of the landings to some object of interest.
The stairs were not difficult but rather continuous, as we found before
we reached the top. In the middle of the last flight was a narrow path
leading to the snakes' bathing-place; this is formed out of solid rock
and measures about one hundred and thirty feet in length. At the back
the five-headed cobra has been carved in high relief; it is seven feet
high and is represented as rising from the water. The sanctity of the
mountain-top in the eyes of Buddhists is said to be due to the fact that
on the summit alighted the royal missionary, Mahahindo, when he came
from India, 307 B.C.; he there met the King, who was out hunting, and
having listened to a discourse, the King became an ardent Buddhist, a
fact which later resulted in the conversion of forty thousand of his
followers.
[Illustration: _Mihitale Steps_]
* * * * *
CEYLON: The Ambustala dagoba now marks the spot of the meeting. It is
built of stone, the terrace around it consisting of numerous columns.
There are ruined statues, columns, and carved capitals scattered about,
showing that formerly this was the basis for a group of buildings. There
are also oblong cuttings in the rock, supposed to be the foundation of
cave dwellings never completed. One more flight of stairs leads up to
the gallery, surrounding the Mahaseya dagoba. The view from this highest
gallery is magnificent; the great plain gave a wide vista, while beyond
was an outline of the distant mountain range; nearer we saw great masses
of green, through which shone the three great dagobas of Anuradhapura.
Before leaving the summit we held a conversation with the aged priest
through an interpreter, and, retracing our steps, drove to the rest
house for a ten-o'clock breakfast made up of coffee and rolls; then,
returning to our temporary home in Anuradhapura, we pronounced the
morning's excursion a success.
In the afternoon we took a drive with a guide through the inner circle,
when there occurred the incident with the priest previously related.
At 6 A.M. the following day, we returned to Colombo, and again enjoyed
the tropical vegetation, the views of mountain and valley, of rice and
tea plantations, and the glimpse of native life which the short stay at
stations afforded. Time thus passed in the mountains and country of
Ceylon is indeed fraught with delight. We had an object lesson in the
habits and customs of the so-called hill-country, Kandy furnishing many
marked examples; there was particularly the large two-wheeled cart with
oxen as propelling power. We were also interested in the Rodiyas, living
in the outskirts, a people oppressed on account of a curse pronounced by
a king many years ago, one of the conditions being the prohibition of
clothes above the waist, both for men and women. The latter are noted
for their beauty, and excel as singers and dancers, but they suffer
under the stigma of immodesty for the reason given above.
Three restful days followed; the hotel wore a homelike air, and the time
was full of content and quiet enjoyment. Ceylon fascinated me from the
first, and after the trip to the mountains and a more perfect
realization of the natural advantages of the island, the impression
deepened.
The native people also struck me as being cheerful, but with more
strength of character than the Burmese, and possessing a certain kind
of dignity that was pleasing. The bazars too were found unusually
interesting on a closer inspection, and offered many new and novel
articles.
[Illustration: _Street scene in Kandy, Ceylon_]
While there were carriage drives, this was our first introduction to the
jinrikishas, and we found them most convenient and a novelty; only there
was an uncomfortable feeling that the jinrikisha man in Ceylon was too
slight for his occupation.
The street scenes presented almost as cosmopolitan an aspect as those at
Rangoon, and with quite as varied a mixture of nationality.
There was a notable carriage drive of eight miles to Mt. Lavinia, a
seaside resort with only a hotel perched on a hill, while below on the
sandy beach were many fishing-boats. Here we whiled away an hour, and
had afternoon tea.
On Saturday evening, February 8th, we bade adieu to Ceylon, taking
passage on the steamer _Delhi_ of the P. & O. line, which was to be our
home until the 14th. We were assigned pleasant rooms, and the general
environment was agreeable. There was little of incident on the trip
until we landed at Penang, Malay peninsula, on the morning of the 13th.
We made a special tour, and noted many beautiful homes with surrounding
grounds and a general air of thrift. We were once more reminded of Great
Britain's supremacy in the Far East; it is surprising, the vast amount
of colonizing, as well as civilizing, she has accomplished.
In Penang, Chinamen were everywhere seen and Chinese business houses
predominated. The Malay was, however, to be found as he should be on the
Malay peninsula. At first it was difficult for us to realize that we had
left the East, Penang being the portal of the Far East, of which
Singapore is the gateway, her harbor being a famous shipping point.
At 11 A.M. we were sailing on for that port, which is regarded as the
Paris of the Far East by the wealthy nabobs who frequent the city. The
Chinese coolie who officiated as jinrikisha man was a sturdier specimen
of humanity than the one seen at Colombo, and we could enjoy a ride
without the conscientious scruples experienced at the former place.
Arriving at Singapore, we found we must postpone our visit there, as the
steamer _Rembrandt_, of the Dutch line, was soon to leave for Java.
It was late in the afternoon when we sailed from Singapore; we caught
some glimpses of the shore and noted the finest group of the traveller's
palm we had as yet seen; also some pretty bungalow homes close to the
water's edge, with tiny gardens enclosing palms and flowers.
[Illustration: _The canal in the old city of Batavia_]
There was scarcely a ripple to be detected, and the elements were
hushed; the brilliant rays of the setting sun shed a halo over the
peaceful landscape.
We imagined there must be some premonition of the event which was to
take place in the night, namely, the passing of the equatorial line; and
we tried to keep our senses alert in order not to miss the subtle
significance of so unusual an event, but in the morning there was the
humiliating reflection that sleep had "won the day"! At noon we began to
realize that we were at Summer's door and would soon learn the true
quality of the tropical heat, of which we had had as yet only a prelude.
The Java Sea was as placid as the Strait of Malacca had been, and there
was little to break the monotony save a passing steamer, a glimpse of
Sumatra's shore, and an occasional island. Another night passed, and in
the morning we were at the harbor of Tandjong Priok, which is nine miles
from the city of Batavia. We arrived there in a pouring rain; we were
now in a land where rain is prevalent, this being the wet monsoon
season.
After a very slight custom-house inspection was completed, we left by
train for Batavia, one of the capitals of Java. We were at once
impressed with the variety of the landscape and the tropical richness of
the trees and shrubs. The Dutch aspect of the architecture and the
canals were evidence of the influence of the fatherland, but the natives
seemed to be a mixture of Javanese and Malays, while the Chinese, as
elsewhere, were to be seen in large numbers.
The canals are the principal feature of the old city of Batavia; but
along the streets one detects also many business houses and banks, some
of the largest being Chinese.
The Hôtel des Indes is located in the new city called Werengen. On
entering the enclosure which surrounds the hotel, a large banyan tree
was the central object directly in front of the hotel proper, situated
nearly in the centre of a square.
On three sides of the square are arranged a continuous series of
one-story suite of rooms opening in front on a wide veranda, shut off
from the adjacent suite by screens of stained glass and shaded by glass
and awnings. This was the salon of the suite, furnished with rugs,
chairs, centre table, and writing-desk. Here all waking hours are
supposed to be passed. The largest homes of the residents are similarly
arranged; such an exterior forms the large drawing-room, often
beautifully furnished. It all seemed new and novel to us, but the climax
was reached when we saw even matrons on exhibition in these show boxes,
dressed in loose jackets, sarongs drawn closely around them, and their
bare feet simply encased in sandals; also stout Dutchmen in pajamas, and
sometimes this costume was worn in the dining-room with the utmost
unconcern, showing how customs vary in different countries.
[Illustration: _Batavia, Java_]
The charming bungalow homes in the new city, surrounded by spacious
grounds, pleased us, as did the business houses; some fronting on canals
which were spanned by artistic bridges. The Museum of the Batavian
Society of Arts and Sciences was rich in exhibits of Sumatra's and
Borneo's products and handwork, as well as in Javanese antiquities and
in articles of silver and gold workmanship, which were novel in design
and skilfully executed. The building is classic in its lines and very
pleasing.
* * * * *
_February 18th_: An early train, 6 A.M., for Buitenzorg gave us the
freshness of the morning for travel, and the two hours thus consumed
were filled with exclamations of delight over the beauty of the scenery.
Soon after our arrival at the Hotel Belle Vue, we drove to the Botanical
Gardens, where, like Peradeniya in Ceylon, a revelation awaited us.
Masses of pink lotus, white lilies, Victoria Regia, and other varieties
of the lily family formed great patches of color on the miniature ponds
that were their setting. Orchids in greenhouses and on trees put forth
their graceful flowers; palms of every description, candle trees with
myriads of almost realistic candles which were suspended from the
branches, sausage trees with veritable bolognas hanging from the limbs,
bread-fruit trees, lovely vistas of the graceful banana, and groups of
other foliage or shrubs surrounded us in abundance.
The Governor's spacious residence looks out upon the park on one side,
and a pretty summer-house overlooking a valley gave a picturesque touch
to the place.[4] The ride around the city showed lovely homes set in
varied greens, and a general air of thrift and prosperity prevailed.
The hotel is charmingly located and has pleasant features. It fronts on
a garden, with a wide gallery overlooking the city. A square court in
the rear is encircled by a series of rooms, with the front gallery
looking on the court, and the back gallery facing a valley (the house is
built on a side hill) through which runs a river with a tiny village on
its border; while beyond a wide vista of cocoanut palms rises a range of
mountains, Mt. Salak being the distinctive feature. Both galleries are
well furnished, and here guests assemble when in the hotel. The view
from the rear gallery I have never seen surpassed in breadth, except
perhaps by that in Granada, when from Miss Laird's balcony (near the
Alhambra) we looked down upon the city, with the mountains beyond.
[Illustration: _View of Mt. Salak from the Hotel Belle Vue_]
The Javanese view was enjoyed for hours, as a heavy rain prevented our
afternoon ride, and the letters that should have been written were
somewhat neglected, owing to the view described.
One shrinks at being called at four o'clock in the morning, at having
breakfast at five, and at taking a train at six, but such was our
experience on February 19th. One leaves Buitenzorg for Garoet as the
first streak of dawn appears; as we sped along, we realized more and
more what tropical vegetation and abundant rain could produce, for the
vivid greens and dewy freshness of the foliage surpassed even Ceylon's
landscape, which in its turn had surpassed anything before seen, even
our own South and Southern California not excepted; Java is indeed the
garden of the world! With remote mountain views on either side of us and
nearer aspects of palms and trees bearing names unknown, there were
interspersed rice plantations, unlike the flat fields of Burma,
cultivated in terraces rising one above the other on hilly slopes. An
occasional tea plantation lay here and there, and some traces of coffee
plantations; the cultivation of the bean has been partly abandoned
owing to the blight about ten years since.
As the train climbed upward, our destination being Garoet, two thousand
feet above the sea-level, the scenery grew less marked, but we were
still encircled by the Gedeh Mountain range. The great Garoet plain
consists of wide level stretches and extended rice-fields, less marked
by terraces than those we had seen before; therein is situated the
quaint village of Garoet, a favorite hill resort, where we found the
noted Hotel van Horck with its reputation for neatness and restful
hospitality. The one-story building has suites of rooms looking out on a
spacious garden, conventional in style, with its wealth of trees,
shrubs, and flowers, also busts and statues. A large oval bed of
brilliant crotons on one side of the garden, and another foliage bed
that formed the base of a pyramidal vase on the other side, were
especially admired.
The pretty little village of Garoet seemed to breathe a spirit of
contentment, and it is quite a resort for people from a lower altitude.
It is also the starting-point for various excursions, some of which we
took, but the daily rains proved an obstacle. The afternoon of our
arrival we drove to a pretty lake, but a sudden rain prevented a sail to
the island in an exceedingly quaint little kiosk, which rests on two
long boats. The bad weather also prevented a visit to the Hot Springs,
where baths of a rather primitive character are furnished.
[Illustration: _A village scene in Garoet, Java_]
The most noted excursion is to the crater of Papandajang. We departed on
this quest, about five in the morning, driving eleven miles to the rest
house at Tjiseroepan, where ponies and sedan chairs were furnished for
the ascent, a distance of about six miles. Four of our party selected
saddle horses, and four preferred sedan chairs (I took the latter). The
chairs are carried by four men, two in front and two in the back,
supporting on their shoulders long bamboo poles on which the sedan is
placed. They were similar to those used in the ascent of Tiger Hill, at
Darjeeling, but seemed to be more like palanquins, for one could half
recline therein.
The ascent once begun, our eyes were riveted first on one side of the
narrow roadway and then on the other, so diversified was the view: first
patches of bananas, then palms and bamboo which formed an archway. Such
was the continued landscape, while intervening spaces were devoted to
the cultivation of coffee. The chichona plant, from which quinine is
made, was also seen, and one or two patches of tea plantations. A
picturesque feature of this ride was a double hedge made of two rows of
bamboo poles with an occasional horizontal support, between which were
vines, low palms, and unknown plants; as we ascended farther low ferns
formed a fringe at the base of the hedge. Never have I seen anything
lovelier than this trellis of Nature, which extended about half-way up
the ascent; then the way grew narrower and we were in the real jungle.
Here surprising wonders awaited us, towering palms and other trees,
vines and giant ferns, some of which had taken root in crevices of a
tall palm, producing a round basket effect. This was three times
repeated on the trunks of several palms, a stray seed having, perhaps,
settled there. It seemed to me as though the palm, if it could, would
utter a protest.
The higher we went, the larger and more varied grew the ferns. There had
been flowers all the way--wild phlox, the primrose, the creeping
periwinkle, and white and red dentura, together with many trees of
brilliant foliage similar in color to our Autumn tints. There was also a
very tall bush with clusters of bright yellow blossoms, in size much
like our wild rose. When nearer the crater, the trees became small and
the vegetation more sparse, until we reached the point where we left our
chairs and commenced our final ascent, about one quarter of a mile, over
broken pieces of lava. Then we arrived at the halting-point and gazed on
the near crater, inhaling the sulphurous fumes, hearing the rumble, and
seeing the clouds of vapor as they issued forth, with a mixture of
bright yellow sulphur. The volcano is now inactive, the last eruption
having taken place in 1772, when forty villages were destroyed. At this
time the side of the crater towards us was broken. It is altogether a
fine spectacle.
[Illustration: _The crater of Papandajang_]
Having partaken of our breakfast at ten-thirty, we prepared for our
descent, when, alas! a pouring rain set in, and as the slight covering
of the sedan chair afforded little protection, there was no avoiding a
thorough wetting. We had thought of the fine views we would have in our
descent, and were now glad of the occasional backward glances we had
taken during our upward climb. These were fine, of great breadth,
embracing distant mountains, nearer ones, and an occasional plain which
is a characteristic feature of a Java landscape. The descent was very
steep in places, and the footing of the men was rather uncertain; hence
it was a relief when the task was accomplished. We viewed some new
features every now and then, a noticeable one being a group of twelve
very large banyan trees of the variety known as Werengen in a field near
the rest house; their white gnarled trunks and limbs suggested the
forest primeval.
The next morning we drove twelve miles to Leles, past the broad Leles
plain, and nearly all the way through a shaded avenue of trees, at times
forming a natural archway. The lake was most picturesque, with its
three islands and varied shore line. On one side there was a small
cultivated mountain sloping to the water's edge. A heavy rain prevented
the afternoon excursion.
We left Garoet on February 22nd, for almost a day's railroad journey to
Djokjakarta.
* * * * *
DJOKJAKARTA, _February 22nd_: We arrived at Djokjakarta on Saturday,
February 22nd, at 4 P.M. A drive followed, showing us an older and
prettier place than Garoet, with a large Chinese quarter, in which the
shops lacked much attraction.