sacred), of enormous size, which, with outstretched tail, posed for us
with as much evident vanity as a coquettish girl. There are smaller
shrines and temples distributed about the great enclosure, and in one
temple is an immense bronze bull. The tower of the great temple is only
thirty-eight feet lower than the Kutub Minar described in "Old Delhi."
In the northwest corner of the enclosure is an exquisite small temple
called Siva Manya and dedicated to the son of Siva. It has a tower fifty
feet high and a base forty feet square, adorned with pillars, and these
are continued along another cloister, fifty feet long. Mr. Ferguson
writes: "It is as exquisite a piece of decorative architecture as is to
be found in Southern India." The great fort seems like a continuation of
the small one, and in it are situated the palace and Schwartz Church.
[Illustration: _The Great Subrahmanya Temple at Tanjore_]
The palace of the Princess of Tanjore is an immense structure and was
built about 1550 A.D. It has no merit architecturally, but possesses
certain features of interest; one of these is a large Durbar room which
contains bas-reliefs on the wall, and a platform of black granite, on
which stands a white marble statue by Flaxman of Raja Shah Foji, who was
a pupil of Flaxman and who was next to the last Raja. There are also to
be found here portraits of the various members of the royal family and a
bust of Lord Nelson. In addition, we came across an unusual library for
India, dating from the end of the sixteenth century, and containing
eighteen thousand Sanskrit manuscripts, one half of them written on palm
leaves. Our English guide showed us a portion of the palace occupied by
two ladies, relatives of the last Raja, this being a courtesy extended
to them by the English Government and which ceases with their death.
The Schwartz Church dates from 1770 A.D., and the aged missionary is
immortalized in a monument designed by Flaxman, which contains eight
figures beside the reclining one.
The Tanjore and Trichinopoly districts were the scene of the earliest
work of the Protestant missionaries in India, and the Roman Catholic
missionaries antedated them by half a century. Churches of these faiths
are scattered through this and the adjoining districts. We had a late
luncheon in the restaurant of the railway station and then repaired to
the train. I have great dislike for a sleeping-car, so it can be
imagined that the visit to the Dravidian temples was made under
difficulties. We proceeded to Trichinopoly, arriving there early and
having a long day before us.
* * * * *
TRICHINOPOLY: Trichinopoly, like Tanjore, has a history full of
vicissitudes, in which the French and that picturesque figure, Lord
Clive, appear. The temple of Sri Ranngam is situated a mile from the
bridge and three miles from the fort, the entrance being through a
gopura forty-eight feet high; the sides of this passage, one hundred
feet long and forty-three feet high, are richly ornamented. The
monoliths which serve as pillars are forty feet high, and every detail
is on a gigantic scale; this is the largest Hindu temple in India. The
outer enclosure alone is twenty-four hundred and seventy-five by
twenty-eight hundred and eighty feet, and has its elephant, but it wears
a commercial aspect (being filled with bazars) which detracts from the
dignity of the scene. As we penetrated to the interior temple, the
buildings diminished in size and importance; the gopuras, however, are
imposing (there are nine in all), with their profuse decoration, all
being painted and all varying in size.
[Illustration: _Fort Rock, Trichinopoly_]
In the court around the central enclosure is a hall of about one
thousand pillars; these are of granite, eighteen feet in height. On one
side the pillars represent men astride rearing horses, the horses' feet
being supported by the shields of men on foot beside them. This temple
was built about 700 B.C. The tanks are of interest in Trichinopoly, but
less so than in Madura.
The great rock is the most noticeable feature, tunnelled out of which is
a circular staircase with a gateway leading to interior temples, and on
the sides of this passage are pillars with peculiar capitals which seem
to indicate Jain origin. The way upward was dimly lighted, and all
manner of accidents seemed possible. In fact, there was a very serious
accident in 1849, when five hundred persons were killed. At one landing
there was a school of small boys; at another, there were groups of
worshippers making their descent; turning to the left, we saw a small
temple of Siva. In the dim light everything seemed weird and unreal. The
view from the top of the rock was far-reaching, gopuras and temples
gleaming through the green foliage. There were sacred elephants here, as
at Tanjore, standing in the usual receptive attitude; for them small
coins were more acceptable than food, showing how adroitly they had been
trained.
* * * * *
MADURA: Another very early arrival at Madura, and the programme of the
day before was repeated. Although Madura is a large place, the temples,
gopuras, and palaces are the chief attraction. The famous Palace of
Tirumala Nayak is splendid in its appointments, having large, airy halls
and audience rooms (similar to the Diwan-i-Khas of Delhi and Agra) with
richly decorated ceilings, and the bedchamber is resplendent with
carving and gilding. There is a fine view from the roof of the great
temple. The nine gopuras are tall, massive, and barbaric in their
decorations, which consist of horses, lions, elephants, gods and
goddesses. The great shrines of Siva and his consort are almost
interminable in their extent, and there is a long vestibule or hall
divided into aisles by carved columns. This formed a reception room
for the King in early times, a great contrast to the present scene of
tumultuous venders with almost every variety of goods, who are more
noisy than their brothers of North India.
[Illustration: _The Golden Lily Tank, Madura_]
[Illustration: _Entrance to the Madura Temple_]
Within the temple there are many shrines and many Tamil worshippers;
high-caste Brahmans are also there to minister to the supposed wants of
the higher gods. Galleries led us out to still other shrines, where are
installed additional images of gods, who on fête days are carried about
in gold and silver chariots of untold value. All the most beautiful
portions of the temple as it now stands were built by Tirumala Nayak,
the great Madura ruler of modern times, who ascended the throne in 1623
and reigned thirty-six years.
One of the quadrangles opens out on a tank. An arcade runs around the
tank, and the walls are painted with representations of the most famous
pagodas in India. On the north side is the belfry--strange to relate, an
American bell hangs therein. Here too is the Hall of a Thousand Pillars,
and this is even more remarkable than the same-named hall at
Trichinopoly, on account of the marvellous beauty of the construction.
Near the hall is the great gopura, and opposite this is the new gallery,
of a magnificent plan but unfinished, known as Tirumala's Choultrie.
There is so much of interest and detail connected with all of these
Dravidian temples that one should plan to have more time to devote to
them. The cursory examination we were afforded measures the disadvantage
of an itinerary. We left after luncheon for Tuticorin, and arrived there
at 5 P.M.
* * * * *
TUTICORIN: Tuticorin, on the Gulf of Manaar, is the port of departure
for Colombo, Ceylon. We had only a hurried glimpse of the city, showing
white buildings, white sand, and the blackest natives we had yet seen.
We inferred they were Tamils. A pleasant night on the steamer followed.
* * * * *
COLOMBO, _January 25th_: The morning of January 25th saw our approach to
the fine harbor of Colombo, and we felt that at last our dream of
viewing the beautiful island of Ceylon was to be realized. Our first
impression was received at the landing jetty, where it seemed as if
every nationality had its representative, so varied was the appearance
of the natives,--the Laskas from the Malay Peninsula, the Hindus from
India, as well as Tamil coolies, Arabs from Aden, Buddhist priests, and
Mohammedans. We found excitement on our arrival at the hotel, owing to
the expected appearance of the ex-Empress Eugénie and her suite, as well
as Sir Thomas Lipton and numerous other notable guests.
[Illustration: _Street scene in Colombo_]
The ride to the hotel, located on the sea, had shown us unusual
luxuriance of vegetation and wonderful trees both in fruit and in
blossom. This fact was emphasized by a long afternoon drive, beginning
in the native quarter with its attendant bazars and ending with a long
country tour for at least an hour through a forest of palms of many
varieties, the tall talipot towering high--higher even than the
fruit-laden cocoanut palm,--while bread-fruit trees, jack-fruit trees,
and bananas made a pleasing variety. A little diversion occurred when a
boy climbed a tall cocoanut palm, procuring a fine specimen, and opened
it for us to try. We passed the Victoria Bridge, which took the place of
the bridge of boats, returning to our hotel by a way that revealed still
more tropical wonders. The fine Galle Face Hotel, with its sense of
spaciousness and restful ease, the illuminated grounds, the band, and
the dash of the waves caused that first Saturday evening to seem almost
perfection; one and all felt willing to linger on indefinitely, but,
alas, the iron-clad itinerary must be met, and a week in the mountains
was to follow!
Colombo is a fine place in which to study types, and nothing is more
peculiar than the Cingalese man, with his long hair braided in a knot at
his neck, with the broad shell comb resting on his crown; on State
occasions the chief waiters at the hotel appear in an exceedingly high
head piece perched above their customary shell ornament, which they told
us was the style of a hundred years ago.
The jinrikisha man here is the first person to gain your attention; so
winning are his ways and so rapid his pace that he is justly popular for
a short spin to the very interesting shopping district, where almost
everything may be found, the jewels holding the interest of the stranger
above all else. But, alas, the pearl, Ceylon's home product, is to be
had only at fabulous prices and not then in its perfection. We had heard
of the lure of the pearl in the Gulf of Manaar (separating Ceylon from
India), and of all the fairy-tale adventures involved in the search for
it, and so we were disappointed in our failure to see perfect specimens.
The heat in Colombo was not oppressive, but, as in other places, there
are flying punkahs and electric appliances for cooling the air; then
there are fans in one's room to use at will, for these Easterners like
comfort and secure it at whatever cost, and the denizens of the West
soon fall into their ways, even adopting the English custom of four
o'clock tea. The spacious entrance hall at the Galle Face Hotel
presented an animated appearance, with beautifully gowned ladies, and
their attendants, seated around little tables sipping tea and consuming
fruit-cake and sandwiches.
* * * * *
NUWARA ELIYA: On Tuesday morning, January 28th, we left Colombo for the
north. The mountain resort of Nuwara Eliya is a great boon even to the
inhabitants of sea-swept Colombo; and it is also appreciated to its full
by the tourist who has been surfeited with the close atmosphere of
cities or grown tired of sea voyages. We had been told that the scenery
combined the wildness of Switzerland with the peculiar charm of the
Welsh mountains; hence we felt that a new experience awaited us. The
railway ride there confirmed our first impression of Ceylon's fine
growth of trees and shrubs, the road leading first through lowlands with
endless cocoanut and other palms; while of all the blossom-laden trees
the gold mohr, with its wealth of scarlet blossoms, surpasses every
other. Later, rice-fields and tea plantations alternated, the latter
even covering the sides of mountains. The scenery grew bolder as we went
along, and at the Junction we took the narrow gauge for our mountain
climb. This ascent was another triumph of engineering skill, winding
around long and bold curves.
Nuwara Eliya is located sixty-two hundred feet above the sea, but,
surrounded by mountains, the country has the appearance of being a
valley. The Grand Hotel, in bungalow style, is prettily located in well
laid-out grounds, with a fine view. In the morning we drove to Hakgalla
Botanical Garden, and on our way there we saw a striking feature in
great masses of rhododendrons. The road to the gardens through an avenue
of trees was inviting, and as we turned to the right we had a fine view
of the west peak of the Hakgalla rock; passing on up the drive, we saw a
large lake, the banks of which were lined with ornamental trees. There
is here a pleasing vista of flowering plants, tall palms, and varied
trees; we examined an immense tea plant twelve feet in diameter, a fine
clump of tree ferns, and a peculiar silver fern from New Zealand,--also
a wax palm from New Granada, the leaves of which are covered with a wax
substance from which good candles can be made; and a fernery with
twenty-six thousand plants. There is also a flower garden, a house for
the propagation of plants, and a laboratory for scientific research,
besides many other interesting features in this truly complete garden.
We visited a tea factory, and an attendant showed us the entire process
of preparation, even to the wrapping of the tea in packages. During the
afternoon we drove to Ramboda Pass, six miles distant. From the top of
the pass, six thousand feet high, there was a panoramic view of mountain
scenery with the Katinale valley below and the gray-crested Peacock
Mountain as a centrepiece. Nuwara Eliya is a famed summer resort, with
beautiful walks, tennis, cricket, and social clubs; the English Church
is finely located, with the usual well-kept close.
[Illustration: _General view of Nuwara Eliya_]
* * * * *
KANDY, _January 30th_: We left Nuwara Eliya, on the morning of January
30th, for Kandy, arriving there at 2 P.M. The train passed through a
country similar to that before described, only there was a greater
descent, Kandy having less altitude than Nuwara Eliya. We had
anticipated much of Kandy, Ceylon's ancient capital and the scene of
action in the days of the old Kandyan kings. It is said that when Adam
and Eve were banished from Paradise they repaired to Ceylon and located
at Kandy, it being the nearest approach to Paradise. A few days' stay
there sufficed to show us that the legend was partly justified.
The city is situated in a valley with stretches of mountains on either
side, a lake nestling in the centre of the place and in the midst of a
perfect wealth of trees. Nature seemed to challenge our admiration.
The afternoon drive to Peradeniya convinced us that the claim of one of
the greatest botanical gardens in the world was well founded, for here
we saw revelations in plants, shrubs, and trees, the new varieties of
palms seeming wonderful. A talipot palm was in blossom, towering high to
heaven, but we knew that its course was nearly ended, for when it
attains about half a century of vitality it droops and dies; this seems
a strange anomaly of Nature. Great groups of rubber trees (largely
exported from Ceylon) and immense groups of tall bamboo trees were also
in plenty.
Kandy, in the Eastern world, derives its greatest renown from being the
home of Buddha's tooth, and the Temple of the Tooth attracts great
crowds of pilgrims of the Buddhist faith from many lands. It is said to
have been brought here in the sixteenth century, and the small temple in
which it was then placed has been enlarged and made a shrine where
costly gifts are laid by devotees from China, Japan, the Malay
Peninsula, Siam, and other remote points. Buddhism claims the larger
portion of Ceylon's subjects, having in comparison with Hinduism a small
following in India, where it originated. The tooth is said to be the
left eye-tooth of Prince Siddhartha, taken from his ashes twenty-five
centuries ago, but it is believed that the original tooth was burned by
the Catholic Archbishop of Goa, Portugal, in 1650, and a spurious one
substituted. However, it is worshipped as the real one, and the morning
following our arrival, we attended the 9.30 service at the temple, where
a crowd was in attendance, seemingly enjoying the hideous music of the
tom-toms and instruments of a similar Oriental character. The tooth is
not shown except on rare occasions, but through a glass door we saw its
jewelled casket and the table on which it rests.
[Illustration: _General view of Kandy_]
There were many offerings before this relic and before other images of
Buddha which are to be found presiding over all temples. Much
superstition was evident, but the sacrifices and practices that are to
be seen in the Hindu temples are here wanting. It is a sad reflection,
however, that Buddha's noble teachings could not have borne better
fruit.
The library of the temple held many richly bound Buddhist books, written
on leaves made from the talipot palm. The leaves bound together are long
and narrow, and are held in place between heavy covers. The priests, as
in Burma, wear a yellow silk robe draped like a Roman toga. They are
seen everywhere, going about in the early morning with a begging bowl;
they are ever courteous and apparently well bred. Cremation is
practised, as with the Hindus, but the rites preceding it are far more
imposing and cover days of peculiar ceremonies, while the Hindus
practise almost immediate cremation. A visit to the Government art
school and museum followed, and then a beautiful mountain drive where
hill and valley alternated; the views were past description.
In the afternoon we were permitted the courtesy of a visit to the
Governor's residence, the family being absent. The grounds were large
and well laid out; the rooms spacious and furnished with a view to
comfort and to meet the requirements of the climate. We were interested
in learning that the ex-Empress Eugénie and her suite were about to
arrive to take up their residence for a time. A so-termed Lady Blake's
drive followed. This was also largely a mountain ride with more fine
views; but we surpassed ourselves on the following day in the tour we
took, and our adjectives were soon exhausted; so it is natural that we
should vote Ceylon the finest land we had thus far visited.
Sunday was passed quietly; we attended a 6 A.M. service in the English
Church, and saw a number of natives in attendance, ladies appearing in
low dresses and with uncovered heads. They were richly clad; so it was
evidently the custom, even though to us it seemed peculiar.
[Illustration: _Entrance to the Botanical Gardens, Kandy_]
[Illustration: _Temple of the Sacred Tooth in Kandy_]
* * * * *
ANURADHAPURA: Monday, February 3d, we left Kandy to visit
Anuradhapura.
Before proceeding, it seems desirable to introduce an historical
digression. The history of Ceylon is shrouded in mystery, but, from
chronicles compiled by the early monks, a real foundation or beginning
has been determined upon, proving that the Cingalese under Wigeyo
invaded Ceylon in 543 B.C. and conquered the aborigines of the soil. It
is deemed probable that they came from neighboring continents, and that
their descendants possessed character and determination; that they were
builders is shown by the erection of splendid edifices at an early date,
and after the arrival of the royal Buddhist missionary, Mahindo (son of
an Indian king), 306 B.C., fine dagobas and monasteries were added, each
successive ruler seeming ambitious to excel his predecessor.
Anuradhapura was the first capital, but owing to many vicissitudes and
several invasions of the Malabars of Southern India, the capital was
moved many times, Kandy being the sixth; it preceded Cotta, near
Colombo, the latter being the present capital. In 1532, on the landing
of the Portuguese at Colombo, the last blow was struck, and soon the
great cities of the Empire were deserted and left in the hands of
foreigners. The best dagobas were crumbling, immense tanks broken, and
general devastation succeeded where splendor had long reigned. The
annals of these centuries, the recital of the achievements and the
failures of the various rulers, read like a romance, and it seems sad
that a people thus endowed could not have retained their character and
independence, although under English rule the island seems prosperous.
The first mention of Kandy is at the beginning of the fourteenth
century, when a temple was built to receive the sacred tooth and other
ruins, the possession of which made it an important centre of the
Buddhist religion and eventually a royal residence; it became the
capital of the island in 1592. From that time until the final
establishment of the English rule in 1803, it was repeatedly captured
and burned by the Portuguese, the Dutch, and the English; it
consequently presents no architectural monuments nor any pretension to
antiquity.
But it has a better claim to the remembrance of posterity in the fact
that for three hundred years it was the centre of the national movement
to resist the aggressions of the foreigner. After the British occupation
the King was allowed some authority, but owing to certain indignities
offered to English subjects, war was declared in 1815, the King taken
prisoner and transported to India, where he died in 1832. Ceylon has
since been an English colony. The Kandyans are brave and fearless in
appearance; they never wear the Cingalese comb, as this is a badge of
the low country. The women dress differently from those in India.
The city presents a wide field of interest for the archæologist, and
incidentally for the tourist. We were to have a new experience here, as
we were to be housed in a "rest house," the term applied to a Government
semi-hotel, usually of a simple description, but serving as a great
convenience to Government officials in the many places throughout the
English islands where there are no hotels. We found the one at
Anuradhapura prettily located in a setting of green, with a garden in
front. The present little town has a population of about three thousand,
and is the capital of the north central province of Ceylon.
[Illustration: _Ruins of Anuradhapura_]
The tour of the ruins is divided into a consideration of the outer and
inner circles, each comprising a drive of several miles. On the
afternoon of our arrival we took the outer circle and went past towering
ruined temples called dagobas, remains of palaces once spacious and
imposing, long rows of stately columns covering a wide space, ruined
towers, statues, some headless and some showing traces of their former
skill, immense tanks, and remains of buildings of many descriptions
which are awaiting the patient investigation of the archæologist. Much
in this line has already been done, and active work is now being carried
forward on some of the dagobas, the contribution of Buddhistic pilgrims
who come from far and near largely aiding the cause. There is also a
local archæological society which seeks to systematize the effort.