CHAPTER VI

VARIOUS INCIDENTS IN MURRAY ISLAND

I have previously mentioned that I had engaged two Murray Island natives,

Debe Wali and Jimmy Rice, to assist Ontong, our Javanese cook. At first

I offered them a shilling a day as wages. This they refused after much

consideration, but agreed that they would take a pound a month. Later on,

when they had practical experience that one pound sterling a month was

not so advantageous to them as six shillings a week, they repented of

their bargain, but as it was not to our interest to be hard on them, we

reverted to my original offer. Our supply of silver was running short, so

after a time we had to pay in half-sovereigns; at first there was some

difficulty in making them understand the equity of their having to return

four shillings in silver in exchange for the gold coin.

One morning during my temporary absence from the island, Jimmy Rice came

up on the verandah, followed by an islander named Gi, and said, “This man

want to speak along you, fellow.” Gi said, “Me want sell porslin along

you.” My colleagues, not having at that time an instinctive knowledge of

pidjin English, and forgetting that _f_ and _sh_ are often transmuted

into _p_ and _s_, awaited with some interest Gi’s disclosure of the

porcelain. Gi produced four shillings (por s’lin’) and said, “Me want

to buy ten s’lin’.” A light gradually dawned on my colleagues as they

recollected the Saturday night transactions with Jimmy Rice and Debe Wali.

The more obvious part of this arrangement had evidently been noised

abroad, and Gi came prepared to test our readiness to give a

half-sovereign in exchange for four shillings.

After introducing Gi, Jimmy Rice retired below the verandah, where he

remained evidently appreciating the humour of the situation. He said

afterwards, “I laugh along myself inside. I laugh, laugh, laugh. Gi he

gammon.”

This was by no means the only occasion on which we were humbugged, but

we did not mind, for were we not studying the psychology of the natives

amongst other subjects, and it was most interesting to watch the various

idiosyncrasies of our friends and acquaintances.

For example the grey-bearded Ari was somewhat slow and perhaps a little

stupid, but he was thoroughly conscientious and always tried to do the

right thing. We were never quite sure, by the way, whether the old boy’s

name, which was pronounced Ari, was really a native name or merely

their version of “Harry.” Pasi was a man of stronger character and more

intelligent; he had an alert manner and an abrupt method of speech.

Debe Wali was a highly strung, nervous, voluble person, and not averse

to thrusting himself forward; Jimmy Rice was much quieter and slower

in his speech and thoughts; he was certainly more reliable than Debe

Wali, but he had a strong instinct of acquisitiveness, scarcely a day

passed without his asking for something. Myers tells me that once within

twenty-four hours he asked for a pair of boots, a belt, two empty rice

bags, a Jew’s harp, a hat, and of course some tobacco. Jimmy Dei was a

thorough gentleman, Gadodo a man of action, Alo a great, good-natured

fellow who kept and carefully tended a wheezy old sick man. So I might

go on, matching white men known to me with our Papuan friends; few were

really disagreeable, but I call to mind one sleek, hypocritical man named

Papi, who was always trying to get the better of everyone else, and in

this he generally succeeded.

Old Ulai was perhaps the greatest character of the lot, a regular old

heathen, who exhibited but scanty signs of grace. He gloated over the

past, especially the shady parts of it, and it was this lack of reverence

that made him so valuable to us. As he had but little of that reticence

that is so characteristic of the Melanesian, we were able to get hints

from him that we followed up with our other friends to our great

advantage. For, alas! I do not think our friend was very truthful, nor

did he know all about everything, and occasionally he was inclined to

gammon us even in serious matters; but that did not matter, as we never

trusted his word alone. Indeed, the cunning old man was a great humbug,

and he seemed to quite enjoy being found out, and never resented the

imputation of “gammoning.” He had a craving for beer and grog, and often

and often he would sidle up and whisper, “You give me a little grog.” A

demand, needless to add, that was never satisfied.

[Illustration: PLATE IX.

DEBE WALI AND HIS WIFE

JIMMY RICE AND HIS WIFE]

When I went to New Guinea I took Ontong, our Malay cook, with me,

and left Rivers, Myers, and McDougall with the two native “boys.”

My colleagues have described to me how amused they were in watching

the subsequent developments. Rivers did not consider it expedient to

definitely appoint one as cook and the other as helper, knowing matters

would right themselves.

Naturally, Debe Wali at once took the more important post, and to Jimmy

Rice fell the job of carrying water twice daily and getting firewood.

Debe’s active mind soon discovered that if he was doing cook’s work he

should have cook’s pay, so he wanted a rise in wages. Then it dawned upon

Jimmy Rice that he should not be left out in the cold; he argued, “Debe,

he now got one job—he cook; me got two job—me cut ’im wood, me fetch ’im

water. You give me more wages.”

It did not take Debe Wali long to discover that Jimmy Rice had

practically the whole day to himself, while he, as cook, was more

occupied, though, to tell the truth, the cooking was of the most

rudimentary kind possible.

Eventually an arrangement was made between Debe and Jimmy among

themselves, by which they spent alternate weeks at cooking and hewing

wood and drawing water. There was always considerable jealousy as to who

was the better cook; once, when it was Jimmy’s week to cook, and he had

brought up some bread of his own making, Debe came in, looked at it, and

sticking his thumb well in, blandly remarked, “I call that damper.”

On another occasion, when the mind of the entire island was absorbed in

the preparation of a big _kaikai_ (feast), Jimmy Rice went off into the

bush to bring back his contribution of yams, bananas, and coconuts, and

there became so absorbed in his work that he did not return until after

my colleagues had cooked their own dinner. Debe Wali was furious when

he heard of his comrade’s unpunctuality. “When I cook, by jingo, I give

you proper _kaikai_ (food); breakfast, sun there; dinner, sun up here;

supper, sun over there.” That same evening and the following morning

Debe forgot to fill the jugs with water.

One nice thing about our helpers was that they never considered

themselves as servants. They treated us as equals, much to the amusement

and disgust of Ontong. They would come up from the kitchen, loll on our

deck chairs, and chatter away always in the most amusing fashion.

Myers also told me the following:—“Debe astonished us one evening by the

calm announcement, ‘Milk he no good. Me suck (chuck) ’im away. He full

plenty big black pigeon.’ With no little interest we prepared to make the

acquaintance of the big black ‘pigeon,’ ignorant at that time that the

word ‘pigeon’ is applied by the Murray Islanders to any living thing that

is not obviously a four-footed animal. We found an open tin of condensed

milk swarming with large black ants.”

Ten years previously, when in Mabuiag, I sent Dick, the boy who used to

fetch and carry for me, to a fresh-water pool with a net and bottle to

see what he could catch. He returned in high glee crying, “Doctor, I

catch ’im pigeon belong water-hole.” The “pigeons” happened to be some

small water-beetles.

Very shortly before we left I invited the Mamoose, Pasi, who is the

Mamoose of Dauar, and Jimmy Dei, the Sergeant of Police, to dinner.

We gave them soup, curry and rice, rice and honey, and pancakes.

Judging from the quantities they ate they enjoyed themselves very much.

Afterwards we gave them songs and music on the phonograph, and I obtained

their autographs, for it is not often that one has two kings to dinner.

Rivers had asked them twice before, when some of us were in New Guinea;

on one occasion when Pasi went home he saw his eldest son nursing a very

small infant, and he asked him, “What man belong that boy?” “Why, poppa,”

was the answer, “he belong you!” His wife had presented Pasi with a

baby when he was out to dinner. According to the common practice of the

island, Pasi had promised the unborn babe to a native named Smoke, who,

having no children of his own, had expressed a wish to “look out for it,”

or in other words, to take care of it; a _zogo_ is said to “look out

garden.”

I was informed by Myers that at this supper Harry, the Mamoose, and Pasi

each asked for three helpings of curry, and three of rice with jam and

marmalade. Pickles and marmalade proved an irresistible attraction. Even

Pasi, who has travelled as far as Thursday Island, had never met with

marmalade before.

When Harry began his third helping Pasi spoke to him in the Miriam

tongue, “Only take a little.” The hosts knew enough of the language

to understand what was said, and, to the evident amusement of the two

guests, persuaded Pasi also to “take a little.”

Cigars were given them after dinner, which they were polite enough to

pretend to relish. Harry’s cigar remained almost unsmoked; a New Guinea

boy finished Pasi’s. Although smoking was practised in these islands

before the white men came, and they grew their own tobacco, they never

smoked much at a time.

The native pipe is made of a piece of bamboo from about a foot to between

two and three feet in length. The natural partition at the one end, and

the intermediate one, if such occurs, is perforated. At one end of the

pipe there is always a complete partition, and near this a small hole is

bored; into the latter a small wooden or bamboo tube, a few inches in

length, is inserted. The tobacco is put in this, and the open end of the

pipe applied to the mouth, and by suction the pipe is filled with tobacco

smoke. I have seen them put their mouth to the bowl and blow down it. As

soon as the pipe is filled with smoke, the right hand is applied to the

open end and the bowl removed. This hole is applied to the mouth, and

the smoke sucked through it after the withdrawal of the hand from the

open end. The length of the pipe causes such a draught that the smoke is

violently inhaled.

When a man has had a suck he will put his hand to the open end of the

pipe to prevent the escape of the smoke and pass it on to another, who

receives it, and maybe transmits it to a third in the same manner. The

women usually prepare the pipes, and pass them on to the men. This method

of smoking occurs over a considerable portion of New Guinea, but, so far

as I am aware, it is confined to the Papuans.

The effect of this kind of smoking appears to be very severe. The men

always seem quite dazed for a second or two, or even longer, and their

eyes water; but they enjoy it greatly, and value tobacco very highly,

they will usually sell almost anything they possess for some. I have seen

an old man reel and stagger from the effects of one pull at a bamboo

pipe, and I have heard of a man even dropping down on the ground from its

effects.

To return to this supper party. When the guests were trying to enjoy the

cigars, Jimmy Dei arrived in a very excited condition, bringing to the

chiefs news of apparently no small importance. It transpired that he, in

his capacity as Sergeant of the Police, had reported the assault of an

islander upon his wife, who had thereupon summoned her husband to appear

at the court-house on the following day. Any excitement of this kind is

always most welcome to such an impressionable people as these are.

Myers has kindly given me an account of the following circumstance that

happened when I was in New Guinea:—“We were awakened one morning by the

sound of voices in the ‘kitchen’—that is, the space below the verandah

on which we slept. They were the voices of Debe Wali and his wife,

between whom short and quickly answered sentences were passing. Louder

and louder grew their talk. Suddenly a blow was heard, followed by a

metallic noise and the sound of falling water. There was silence for a

time, then softer talking, and a woman’s low cry. Up came Debe Wali to

us, labouring to suppress the most intense excitement. ‘Woman belong me

want me go bush (_i.e._ to the garden). Me I no go. I cook here. I say

to woman, “You go.” She say, “No, you go.” I tell ’im, “You sh-sh.” He

no sh-sh. I tell ’im, “You be quiet: you wake ’im white man; he sleep.”

He talk on. I hit ’im with saucepan. Hold on. I fetch ’im.’ And Debe

vanished below to reappear with his weapon, which, as he put it, he had

‘capsized’ on to his wife. A few minutes later the little woman, one

of the hardest-working on the island, came to us to be treated for a

terrible gash down to the bone on the back of her head, which had to

be sewn up. Debe was much alarmed on the following day, for Kaige, the

policeman, insisted on roaming about the verandah and kitchen, mainly

occupied in consuming our tobacco. Had Debe not been our servant, he

would undoubtedly have been summoned by his wife, and, this being his

fifth offence in this direction, he would have been sent a prisoner to

Thursday Island. To show his penitence he wore all day a black kerchief

round his head; while, to smooth the ruffled feelings of his wife, he

bought from us (out of his next week’s wages) some yards of red twill

which he presented to her.”

Mr. Bruce has informed me by letter that early in 1899 Jimmy Rice and

Debe Wali had, for them, a serious quarrel. It happened in this wise.

Pedro, a Manila who had married Jimmy’s wife’s daughter by a former

husband, D. Pitt, had given Jimmy a small cutter. Jimmy’s wife considered

the boat was given to her as a present for her daughter’s sake, so she

began to “boss” the boat and crew. Debe was captain, while Jimmy remained

on shore to cook the bêche-de-mer.

Jimmy’s troubles now began in earnest. First his wife thought that, as

she was owner of the boat, it was beneath her dignity to cook for Jimmy,

and told him when he asked for his breakfast or dinner to go out and eat

filth. Poor Jimmy asked Bruce for advice.

Shortly afterwards the “fish,” as bêche-de-mer is colloquially termed,

they obtained was demanded by Pedro, as owner of the boat. This Jimmy

gave him. Then the crew wanted their wages. Jimmy said he had nothing

to give them, that they were all his friends, and had promised to work

for nothing to clear the boat. Debe Wali said no; he wanted wages. Jimmy

and his wife had a bad time of it, so the latter went to the Mamoose and

summoned Jimmy for wages.

The police then told Jimmy he was summoned; and great was the clatter

of tongues and mutual abuse. Debe ran into his house and brought out

a big rowlock of a boat, and stabbed Jimmy in the chest with it. Of

course it did not do Jimmy the least harm, but he commenced shouting

“Police! police!” knowing well enough that the police were standing by

and witnessing the whole affair. Of course the police had to arrest Debe.

Next day there was a cross-summons in the court—one for wages, the other

for assault.

We have here an interesting example of the confusion that arises in

the transition between one economic condition and another. Formerly

communal labour was the rule. If a well had to be sunk or a house built,

all friends would lend a hand, a feast with the concomitant excitement

being a sufficient immediate reward, the reciprocity being, of course,

fully recognised. Pedro’s loan of a boat on the hire system of purchase

is well understood. Before the white man came it was customary for the

Torres Straits Islanders to purchase their canoes on what was virtually

the three years hire system. The crew demanding wages belongs to the new

economic custom introduced by the Europeans.

Pedro, the owner of the boat, was drowned in the hurricane that swept

across Northern Australia in March, 1899, and Jimmy had to pay D. Pitt

the balance due on the boat.

The new Erub (Darnley Island) church was to be opened in September; and

when the Murray Island contingent was about to start to take part in the

festivities, Finau could not get a passage for himself or family unless

he went with the Murray Islanders; so he asked Jimmy to lend him his

boat. Jimmy said he could not lend it.

Two months afterwards Jimmy’s cutter went to Garboi sandbank to fish, and

the crew slept on shore the first night. When they awoke next morning

no cutter was to be seen; she had parted her chain in the night and had

drifted away. So poor Jimmy lost his boat and all his labour, and the

worst of it is, he has the haunting fear that it was the direct act of

God because he did not lend his boat to the South Sea teacher when he

asked for it. All the people assert this is the true explanation of his

loss.

Jimmy is a happier man since his wife has ceased to be a boatowner, as

she now condescends to roast yams and cook fish for him. Debe and he are

as good friends as ever, and are always plotting how they can get as many

shillings as they can for the least amount of work, and on the whole they

succeed very well.

Debe is now the proud father of a pretty little daughter, and devotes

a good deal of his time to nursing it. Occasionally he has a row with

Kaima, his wife, when he considers she is not doing the nursing in a

scientific manner. Then he generally takes the management of the baby for

a time, but the infant does not fail to proclaim when it is Debe’s watch

on deck.

On Friday, August 4th, 1899, there were two earth tremors on Murray

Island. I cannot do better than transcribe Mr. Bruce’s vivid description

of the occurrence. “I had just sat down to lunch when the iron roof and

the verandah floor made such a clatter that I could not at all make out

what was wrong; about five minutes later there came another and stronger

shock. I jumped up and went on the verandah.

“There was a great crowd of men playing hockey on the sand beach in front

of the house, and at first I thought some of them had been larking on the

verandah, but when I went out everything was quiet. They were sitting

down; not a word broke the deathlike stillness. I thought at first they

were resting after their game, but even then they never sit still. I

asked, ‘What’s wrong’? Then some of them came up and said, ‘Why, ground

he jump up and down all the same as sea’!

“Then it struck me at once what had happened. I asked them how they felt

when the shock came. They said the whole beach was heaving like the sea

so that they could not stand. Some said they felt sick and wanted to

vomit; others said everything looked blurred and indistinct, and men’s

faces were all distorted when they looked at them.

“I was sorry I was in the house at the time, as I should have liked to

experience the sensation. I should think each shock must have lasted

about two minutes, with an interval of five minutes between them.

“After evening school I saw some of those who had been to their gardens

on the top of the hill. From their description the earthquake was felt

worse up there. Pasi told me he was sitting down on the ground nursing

the baby when the first shock came, and he and the baby commenced to bob

up and down, and he felt as if he were sitting on something that was

giving way with him. When the second shock came, the coconuts on the

trees were bobbing up and down, everything was trembling and swaying; a

bucket on the ground opposite him was jumping up and down. He thought it

was the devil, and that he was bewitched, so he got up and called his

wife to come away. Soon they met other frightened people running home.

Pasi said he was ‘very glad to hear all man feel him all the same as

myself.’

“No doubt the people received a great scare. They were going about in

quite a subdued manner for a few days. When Sunday came they were told

by Finau that God was angry with them. God has been very angry with them

here this year; they were told the same after the hurricane took place.

But then I remember the _Princess Alice_ disaster on the Thames was

referred to in the same manner by Mr. Spurgeon at the Tabernacle; so we

cannot wonder at the coloured teacher attributing all disasters to the

wrath of an offended Deity.

“I had rather an amusing reason given to me why the cyclone of the 4th

and 5th of March (1899) happened. There was a crowd of boats anchored in

the bay, and a South Sea man wanted to hold a service on the beach, but

very few went to hear him pray. Whilst he was praying, some unregenerate

nigger had the impiety to play on his concertina. That day the hurricane

came. The men who told me this thoroughly believed, since the praying

South Sea man had asserted it, that God had sent the hurricane because of

that man playing the concertina.

“That is the kind of God they like to have described to them, and no

other. Really the South Sea teachers know the kind of God to depict to

the native far better than the white missionary does; his God of Love is

beyond their comprehension. They look as if they believed in Him, but

converse with them, and you find the God of Wrath is their ideal of what

God is. He takes the place of Bomai, etc., which they have lost.

“At the opening of the new church at Erub, in September, all the South

Sea teachers from the Torres Straits were gathered together. Captain

H⸺ had just come across an article in a newspaper, written by some

German scientist, that a comet was to appear in the heavens some time in

October, and that it would strike our planet on the 5th of November. The

Captain described the comet to the Erub Mamoose, who in his turn told

the assembled teachers, and they, not unnaturally, went to Captain H⸺

for further information. The Captain, nothing loth, gave them what they

wanted, with a practical illustration of how the comet would act when it

came in collision with the earth. He got a ball of paper and a stick,

making the latter violently strike the ball of paper, which flew some

distance away. ‘That,’ said he, ‘is the way our world will go, and I know

that Old Nick is preparing his fires for a lot of you fellows now.’

“The teachers held a meeting, and arranged that when each teacher went

home to his station he was to appoint three weeks of special prayer,

and to beseech God not to allow the comet to destroy the earth. Finau

arrived here full of it, and the people with him arrived equally full of

influenza through living in over-crowded houses in Darnley.

“On Sunday I went as usual to church. At the close of the service Finau

told all the people to remain, as a special service was to be held; so I

remained along with the rest.

“After a short interval Finau told them about the comet, and that a very

wise man had written in the newspaper that the world was shortly to come

to an end. This was true. He then read from the Gospel of Mark, chapter

xiii., from which he proved that this was the time all these things were

to happen, because this wise man said so in the newspaper.

“He kept on until he had all the people in a proper state of fear. Then

he directly referred to me that I knew it was all true, and would happen.

I said ‘No.’ He took no notice, but told them that in three weeks’ time,

on the 5th of November, if God did not hear their prayers, they would all

be destroyed.

“After praying he invited anyone to stand up and pray and speak on the

subject of the comet. Immediately all the Murray Herschels and Sir Robert

Balls were on their feet, one after another, expounding on comets and

their destructive powers, and they also finished up by saying, ‘Oh, it’s

true! That wise man said so in the newspaper.’ The subject suited them

immensely.

“After they had all had their say, which occupied nearly two hours,

Finau told them from that day until the 5th of November there were to be

special prayers, asking God to rebuke the comet and make it go another

road away from the earth. They would all know in three weeks’ time

whether God had heard their prayers. If He did not destroy the world

then, that would be a sign that He had heard them, and was pleased with

them; but if the comet destroyed the earth on the 5th of November, then

they would understand that God was angry with them, and wished to destroy

them as a punishment.

“He then again referred to me as knowing it to be true. I had to get up

and speak (it was the first time I ever did so on church matters). I told

the people that I had not heard anything about this comet, and that they

were not to be afraid; that even if there was a comet, it was not likely

to interfere with our world, and even if it did, I thought no harm would

arise from it. They would all find, on the 5th of November, Murray Island

would be quite safe, and everyone would be going about their work as

usual. I might as well have said nothing; but there was so much sickness

about (mainly influenza) that I thought this frightening of the people

would have an injurious effect on them.

“The 5th of November came round, and nothing extraordinary happened. So

Finau appointed the 6th to be a day of thanksgiving to God, because He

had heard and answered their prayers by turning the comet away from the

earth.

“Thanksgiving took the form of prayers in the morning, feasting and games

in the afternoon. So you may be sure I had a good time of it in school

that Monday afternoon with the noise of the thanksgiving outside and the

inattention of the children inside.

“You people in England ought to be truly thankful that we have such

effectual fervent prayers in this part of the world. I think this answer

to prayer is quite as good as any I read in Mr. Stead’s _Review of

Reviews_ last year. All that was wanting to make the wise man in the

newspapers and Finau’s predictions perfect was to have had the earth

tremors introduced in November instead of August, and then what a tableau!

“Captain H⸺ is delighted at the good work he considers he has done in

stirring up the people to such a time of prayer. In his last letter he

says he has been the means of leading these South Sea teachers and the

natives to more earnest prayer through fear than has ever been done by

any individual in the Straits before.

“The Mamoose and Pasi left for Erub to attend the memorable opening

of the church a fortnight earlier than the general public, but before

starting the Mamoose left strict orders with the sergeant if anyone made

a storm of wind while he was away to find him out and have him punished.

No sooner did he start than it blew ‘old boots’; no boat could leave the

island, and the Mamoose had a terrible passage.

“Kadud, the new Sergeant of Police, came to me and told me he was looking

out for the person who had made the wind, as the Mamoose had given him

strict orders to have him punished by a fine. One day he came, saying

he had found a dry coconut leaf stuck in the creek at Kiam, and thought

he would find the party. Another day he would find a similar leaf and a

shell stuck in the sand on the beach. Kadud was getting furious, and all

the time it was blowing a hurricane. The storm lasted four weeks, so that

the majority of the people from Murray Island were late for the opening

ceremony.

“For months they tried to find out the miscreant; Wali, being a church

member now, is past suspicion. It would make you laugh to hear how

seriously the Mamoose and Kadud talk when I ask them if they have found

out who it was that made the ‘big wind.’ ‘Oh no,’ they reply; ‘by-and-by

we shall catch him.’

“Mappa, a Murray Islander—one of the L.M.S. teachers—is here at present

on a six months’ leave of absence; he is a shrewd, sharp fellow, but

a thorough native. He brought with him a young fellow named Wai from

his station at New Guinea, another sharper, who has already a great

reputation on Murray Island of being able to make, injure, and kill,

and Mappa backs him up. _Tuk_ is the form of sorcery he is supposed to

practise, and the Murray people are terribly frightened of it; they tell

me the New Guinea men are very powerful in _tuk_, and from Kiwai they can

kill a whole village full of people on Murray Island, nearly a hundred

miles away.

“Wai first began practising on William, the deacon, who lives at Dio. He

went with some others to Dio, and showed William two sticks of tobacco,

and said ‘_Tuk_.’ William began to shake when Wai told him to go and look

in his box and see if he had lost any tobacco. William, still trembling,

got his key, looked in the box, and said, ‘Yes.’ Wai held up the

tobacco, and said, ‘This is it.’ William replied, ‘Yes, that’s it.’ Wai

exclaimed ‘_Tuk_,’ and the two sticks of tobacco disappeared, much to the

astonishment of the crowd. William pressed a present on Wai, to secure

himself against _tuk_. When William told me about the affair I nearly

exploded, trying to keep serious, and endeavouring to sympathise with

him. Wai is a smiling, comedian-faced young fellow; he comes along to see

me every other day, and to have a smoke. Ulai and Mappa, a good pair, are

always extolling Wai’s great powers.

“A fortnight ago Mappa, who is taking Finau’s place, the latter having

gone on a visit to Mabuiag, had a crowd round him after a Friday

morning’s service, and used some strong language about some men who had

not attended church and about Kadud, who owns a well at Kiam, about which

he and the South Sea teacher have a dispute.

“A woman named Deau went and told these men that Mappa was speaking ill

of them. They hurried along to the church compound, Deau along with them.

She then asked Mappa to repeat what he had said, and told him he was bad

man, that he thumped the pulpit with his hand when preaching to them, and

then went home and thumped his wife. Mappa then began to tell her she

was a bad woman, a _Samaria kosker_—that is, a woman of Samaria. Deau

could not stand that, so she went to the police and summoned Mappa for

swearing at her by calling her a _Samaria kosker_. Mappa then threatened

the whole of Deau’s friends that he and Wai would put _tuk_ on them all.

They were in a great panic; the sergeant, Kadud, was nearly white when

he came to see me, with some of the threatened people, and asked if they

could not arrest Mappa. They all declared that Mappa had learnt _tuk_ in

New Guinea, and could destroy them all if he chose.

“Mappa was summoned for slandering Deau, and dismissed on this count;

next he was charged with threatening the people. The witnesses all held

that when Mappa went back to New Guinea he would destroy anyone he chose

by using the sorcery of _tuk_. It was _tuk_, _tuk_, and nothing but

_tuk_. I asked Mappa if he had threatened the people with this, and he

said he had, and that he was angry. I asked him if, when he went back to

New Guinea, he or the Fly River men could shoot _tuk_ to Murray Island.

He said they could, but he was not sure about himself. I warned him

to think about what he was saying, and if he really believed that Wai

could do such a thing. He hummed and hawed, and said ‘No.’ That was all

I wanted in order to quiet the fears of the people, so I asked Mappa to

tell the Mamoose and the people that the Fly River men could not injure

them, and that neither he nor Wai knew _tuk_. He told them so, but at the

same time they did not believe him, and would rather have heard him say

that he and Wai were _au kali tuk le_ (very big _tuk_ people). Mappa was

dismissed from court, and advised not to practise _tuk_ any more whilst

on his holidays. The whole _tuk_ affair has been very amusing. Mappa and

his wife are now teaching the Murray youths New Guinea dances, so that

they may beat the Dauar men on New Year’s Day.”

In a letter dated September 30th, 1900, Mr. Bruce gave us the later

history of some of our friends, and as it illustrates the social life of

the Murray Islanders in a very interesting manner, I do not hesitate to

print the greater part of it for the benefit of my readers.

“This year we are experiencing the results of a big drought. The

north-west monsoon, which generally brings a young deluge with it, has

been very mild this year, so mild, in fact, that but for the change of

winds we might say we had no ‘nor’-west.’ In December of 1899 we had good

rains, which gave promise of a good harvest from the gardens this year;

but there has been such a dearth of rain in 1900 that all the garden

stuffs died off. First the sweet potatoes went (that is, the vines), for

they never got to the length of tubers; then the yams died off, but the

people managed to get a few small ones out of the crop. So the people are

reduced to coconuts and bananas, which are fairly plentiful. The natives

are perfectly happy, carrying on play night after night, and their boats

lying idle at anchor, instead of being at work getting black-lip shell,

which has been a splendid price this year, to buy flour and rice for

their families. Douglas Pitt’s son did very well with one boat working

from here; he cleared £350 in six months with a crew of mainland boys,

whilst the Murray men did not clear as many shillings with seven boats

which they obtained from individuals to work out and on shares. They kept

on getting advances (‘draws’) of calico and tobacco, and do no work.

“Your two ‘curry and rice _chefs_,’ Debe Wali and Jimmy Rice, both got

boats. Debe obtained all the draws he could out of the owner in eight

months, and collected about £4 worth of shell to pay about £10 worth of

draws. The consequence was, when he went to Thursday Island for more

draws the owner took possession of his boat, and he was lucky to get

it, because if she had remained much longer at Murray Island she would

have broken up on the beach. Jimmy Rice, poor fellow, has not been quite

so fortunate as his friend Debe. In the first place, he could not get

so many draws out of his man as did Debe, and he had signed before the

Shipping Master, with a solicitor to see that all was fair and square.

When Jimmy got all the draws he could from the owner of the boat, he and

his crew refused to do any work, and they were taken before the Shipping

Master at Thursday Island. The Shipping Master prosecuted them in court.

All the crew, beside Jimmy Rice and Toik, decided to go to work and

finish the time they had signed for. Jimmy and Toik held out, thinking

they would be sent back to Murray Island by the steamer, as she was

coming out the day following; but they made a mistake, and each of them

got two months in jail to work out their time. One of the young Pitts

paid for a boat here in four months with a mainland crew, and although

the Murray men have these object lessons before them, they seem to be no

incentives to make them go and do likewise, which they could easily do.

“Papi has a boat on half-shares from a Manila man named Zareal, a

jeweller at Thursday Island. Like the others, Papi was doing no work

after getting what he could out of Zareal; but he was lucky enough to

find a good pearl in a shell, so he took it to Thursday Island and sold

it for £150, then went flashing about town. Zareal came to know of the

pearl, and claimed half of its value for the boat; but Papi objected, and

got away from Thursday Island to Murray Island with the cash. Not a bad

haul for a Murray man! There is likely to be trouble about it, but I bet

my boots Papi comes off the winner.

“You remember old Gasu; his eyes were bad. He is now quite blind; can

only tell the difference between night and day. He looks physically

well, but takes no exercise whatever, as he tells me he is ashamed to go

walking about with a boy to lead him. When I visit him I give him a spin

along the road, and he enjoys it immensely. Poor old Gasu! He had not his

equal on the island; a thorough, genuine old gentleman, and quite free

from all cant, although he had his fears of the ‘White Man’s Zogo’ (the

Church) like all the rest.

“The great drought this year has been put down to many causes. Your

party came in for some of the blame for taking away the good _doioms_,

so that the rain-makers were handicapped in giving a plentiful supply.

But the principal cause for a time was our old friend Debe Wali; he was

charged with defiling and throwing down the yam _zogo_ at Dauar, named

Zegnaipur—this is the principal yam _zogo_. Debe’s brother, Komabre,

and Harry, the Murray Mamoose, were the two head _zogo_ men who prepare

it every year. Komabre died last year, and Debe, of course, believes

someone was the cause of his death, and the people say that he was angry

at the death of Komabre and knocked down the _zogo_, hence the drought.

Mamoose and Pasi came to me to have a talk about it, and wished to know

if they could not prosecute Debe in court. I told them they would have

to get proof that he had done the injury, well knowing they could get

none. Mamoose said he was certain Debe did the thing to spoil the yams

and food, and that the law should punish him. I had to cool him off as

best I could. The next one accused was Joe Brown. They said, because he

has a quarrel with Jimmy Dei, he burnt the coconut _zogo_ at Zeub by

wilfully setting fire to the grass, and that he had stopped rain from

coming and blighted all the crops. It was very amusing when I asked Debe

and Joe confidentially why they had been and gone and done it. A knowing

smile stole all over their faces, as much as to say, ‘I’ll teach them to

interfere with me!’ Still, they would never confess to anything, but you

could see how pleased they were at the prominent place they held among

the people. When I represented to them how they were making me suffer

too from having empty water-tanks, old Joe said, ‘By-and-by, Jack, you

stop; I make him all right; you see your tank full up by-and-by!’ That

‘by-and-by’ means so much to them, and is such a handy phrase I don’t

know what they would do without it now!

“In the early part of the year I was pestered by the men who had boats,

and also by their crews, coming every day inquiring when the big blow

was to be. I told them it was impossible for me to fix any stated time,

but they knew we always had strong winds in the north-west. It was of no

use, they kept on coming to inquire. At last I asked if anyone had been

telling them there was to be a big blow. They said yes, one man told

them; but who he was they would not say. Of course it made a good excuse

for not going to work, and they made the most of it and let the boats lie

up.

“The following is an example of the power _zogo_ men are credited with.

After Debe’s and Joe’s reputation was on the wane and being forgotten,

Mamoose and Jimmy Dei were in my house one day, and the conversation

turned on the everlasting drought, which both were bewailing. I began

to twit them about the powers of the rain-makers, trying to bring them

out. Mamoose did not like it, and began to converse with his optics to

Jimmy (Murray men do a lot of talk on the quiet with their eyes). Jimmy

assented, so Mamoose got up out of his seat, looked out of the front

door, then out of the back—to make sure there was no one about who

would be likely to hear—sat down again, and after sundry ahems Mamoose

whispered to me the real cause of the drought. He said the rain-makers

were afraid to make rain and prepare the ceremony, in case they might

make too much wind along with it, and therefore cause another big

hurricane, like that of last March, and they feared the Government would

punish them if many lives were lost; besides, Gasu being now blind, he

could not see to prepare the _zogo_ properly, and they were afraid to

make it! I had to condole with them on the hard luck of having to risk

the chances of either a cyclone or a famine, and agreed with them that a

famine was the safest, for, as Mamoose said, the hurricane might smash

up the island altogether. But I assured him at the same time that the

Government would on no account hold them responsible for any damage done

by any cyclone in this part of the world. I never heard of any Murray man

getting the credit of making the hurricane last year; no doubt they have

been afraid to hint at it, and I have no doubt the people give the honour

to some of the _zogo le_ for having caused that disaster.

“I had a gentleman living with me for a month or so; he came from New

Zealand, and is travelling all round, doing the ‘grand tour of Australia,

New Guinea,’ etc. He was grand company, although a very strict churchman

and an extreme ritualist. I had no idea colonial high churchmen could be

so high! He out-ritualed everything I had ever seen or heard of, but he

was one of the good sort who could give and take a joke.

“We had a trip to Dauar one Saturday; went in the whale-boat, and several

passengers accompanied us. We had a walk all round, and had a nice day

of it. After we had returned home and had had supper, and were sitting

talking and smoking, a deputation headed by Pasi, who is Mamoose of

Dauar, came to inform me that those who had accompanied us to Dauar

had gone on purpose to see the _zogo_ of Wiwar. This is a round stone

(sandstone) about the size of a pumpkin; if it is prepared by a _zogo_

man it has the power of causing constipation, and the person affected

will die if there is no antidote used in the form of taking off the

power of this _zogo_. Pasi had a small packet in his hand, wrapped up

very carefully, like tobacco, in a dried banana leaf. He asked me if I

would examine it, and spread it out, telling me this was the cause of

the sickness of an old lady named Sibra. She remembered that the last

time she had been over to Dauar she had passed the _zogo_ Wiwar, and now

knew the cause of her sickness. Her friends had gone over with us to find

out if the _zogo_ was prepared; they were to take away the power of the

_zogo_ by cleansing it with sea-water, and placing the leaf of a plant

called _gebi_ on top of the stone, and pouring water over the stone. Pasi

wished to know if the police could apprehend old Lui, as he was the only

Dauar man who knew how to prepare the _zogo_. I asked Pasi how the _zogo_

was prepared; he said, ‘The _zogole_, after having a stool, placed the

excreta on the stone, using an incantation, in which he referred to the

person he wishes to blight.’ To prove the case, the friends went to the

stone and found it had been prepared, and brought away a sample of the

excreta with them. My visitor could not refrain from laughing, although

I warned him to keep serious. Pasi said there was no chance of Sibra’s

recovery, as the _zogo_ had been prepared too long. I was giving the old

lady medicine, and thought she was going on nicely, but on the Monday

afternoon she died. Of course old Lui got the credit of removing her,

because they had had a quarrel of words. The friends of Sibra do not

consider our law of much account, as Lui cannot be punished, even after

the strong evidence they brought to me. When Lui dies, his relatives will

charge Sibra’s relations with using a _zogo_, appropriate to whatever

sickness he may have been afflicted with.

“It was too much when Pasi asked my visitor to have a sniff, and tell

him if it was the real thing or not. He fairly exploded and roared, and

spoiled the whole effect, as I had to follow suit. The deputation did

not remain much longer, but carefully rolled up their sacred bundle and

left. They are very sensitive to ridicule, and do not like their customs

laughed at. The consequence was that they would not for some time tell

me anything that occurred of a similar nature. You will perhaps think I

ought to rebuke them and advise them not to follow these old customs,

but it is of no use doing this, as these are so engrained into their

everyday existence that they could not, as yet, live without them. Their

disappearance is, I think, only a matter of time.

“It is very seldom that houses are burned down on Murray Island,

considering the inflammable material they are constructed of, and the

carelessness of the people with fire. This year, however, three houses

were burned down. The first one belonged to a widow named Nicky. The

people were all at one of their night plays, and Nicky’s house was

burned, and nothing saved. The play was a long way from Nicky’s place,

but it is considered that the spirit of her deceased husband (Arus)

was angry with her for her conduct, and burned her house down. It was a

serious loss to Nicky, as she has a large family. I spoke to the Mamooses

about getting the people to assist her, and another widow, Anai, whose

goods were also all lost in the fire. The poor women had really saved

nothing except their petticoats. I gave them a start in goods, and I was

really astonished at the manner in which the people assisted; some gave

her a camphor-wood box, others half-bolts of calico, plates, spoons,

knives, and so forth, so the camphor-wood boxes were well filled with

useful articles, and calico galore. All vied in beating each other in the

giving line, and of course a ceremony was made in presenting the goods.

I only hope the next unfortunate will come off as well, but I fear not,

as it is so foreign to the Murray Islanders to give without getting an

equivalent in exchange. However, they deserve all credit for the way in

which they assisted Nicky and Anai, and ought to make Arus’s _lamar_

(spirit) leave the widow’s house alone in future. The other houses were

burned down in the daytime, and all the contents saved.

“This year (1900) has been a fairly healthy year. Up to the present

there have been five deaths—two adults and three children. Matey is

dead; he was a young man about thirty years old; he died of consumption,

I think, and was ill for a long time. I tried to get him to go to the

hospital at Thursday Island, but he would not go. There is a Queensland

Aboriginal working in the boats at Darnley, who has quite a reputation

as a medicine-man. When Matey was very weak he wished to be taken to

Darnley to see this mainland boy. He was taken over in a dying state. The

mainlander had a look at him and told him, ‘You fellow, you die; no more

blood stop along you; two day, three day, you finish!’ This consultation

was quite satisfactory to Matey and his friends, so Matey requested them

to take him back to Murray Island to die there. They started back with

him, and as soon as the anchor was dropped at Murray, poor Matey’s spirit

took flight to Boigu (an island to the west of Murray, where spirits are

supposed to live in a very happy state without any fears of brimstone).

“Murray Islanders have a great dread of dying anywhere than on Murray,

and no people have a greater love of their native land than they have.

Since this mainland boy on Darnley gave so good a prognosis in Matey’s

case, his reputation has gone up like a rocket, and has not yet come

down, several have gone over to consult him.”

The natives of Erub and the Murray Islands frequently used to make

mummies of their dead relations. The details of the process are not

particularly edifying, and need not be narrated here. The wizened corpse,

which might almost have been made of papier-mâché, so light was it, was

lashed to a bamboo framework. To be made more presentable it was painted

red and pieces of mother-of-pearl from a nautilus shell were inserted in

the orbits, a round spot of black beeswax serving for a pupil. Finally

the mummy was decked with various ornaments. When it was complete and

inodorous a final feast would be provided, and it would be suspended in

the house. There the mummy would remain, swinging with every breath of

wind and turning its gleaming eyes with each movement of the head, until

it fell to pieces with old age.

When the body crumbled away word was sent to the friends to come and

assist in cutting off the head. A big feast was held, and a man who was

skilled in making portrait faces in beeswax on skulls was also present.

Later the artist made the wax model of the deceased’s face; anyhow, the

length of the nose was accurate, as immediately after death the length of

the nose was measured with a piece of wood, which was safely kept for the

purpose of securing the right proportion of the imitation nose.

When the face was finished the head was given to the nearest male

relative. The men then cried. Later it was taken to the women, who also

had a good cry. The inevitable feast followed, at which the artist

received a large share of food.

The modelled and decorated skulls of relatives were kept probably

partly for sentimental reasons, as the people are of an affectionate

disposition, and like to have memorials of deceased friends, but mainly

for divinatory purposes.

A duly decorated skull when properly employed became a divining _zogo_

of remarkable powers, and was mainly used in discovering a thief, or

the stolen article, or a man who had by means of sorcery made someone

sick. But this could only be done by _bezam le_, or members of the shark

clan, who were also members of the Malu fraternity. All who engaged in

this hunt went in the early evening to the _zogo_ house, and one of the

_zogole_ took the Main mask and put it on, repeating a certain formula.

After leaving the house, the _zogole_ carried the skull in front of

him, and all marched with a particular gait till they heard a kind of

grasshopper called _kitoto_, and they rushed in the direction from which

the noise proceeded. One particular _kitoto_ was believed to guide the

men to the house of the offender. Should the men lose the right direction

the _kitoto_ would wait for them to come up, ever and again making its

sound, “Sh, sh.” Ultimately they were led to a house, and this must, of

course, according to their ideas, be the house of the malefactor.

It was of no use for the man to deny the evil deed, for _kitoto_ had

found him out; and, moreover, the _bezam le_ were so powerful that it was

as much as his life was worth to resist. If he happened to be a _bezam

le_ himself he might try to brazen it out among his friends; but if he

was an outsider it would be useless, and he would have to pay the fine.

I was naturally anxious to obtain one of these divining heads; even by

the time of my former visit they had all been done away with, at least,

so I was informed. I had therefore to be content to have a model made for

me. (Plate XII., B, No. 2; p. 139.)

First a skull had to be procured—and for other reasons I was very

desirous of making a collection of skulls; but it was long before I could

obtain any (I am referring now to my former visit), though I constantly

said, “Me fellow friend belong you fellow. ’Spose you get me head belong

dead man, I no speak. ’Spose you get him, I no savvy what name you catch

him, that business belong you fellow. What for I get you fellow trouble?”

Eventually I came across a man who volunteered to get me some, and I

promised to give him sixpence per head; or, as I put it to him, “One head

belong dead man he sixpence, one head belong dead man he sixpence; you

savvy?” and as I spoke I touched and turned down, native fashion, the

fingers of the left hand, beginning with the little finger. He understood

perfectly.

Next day he brought me a basket of skulls, and he could tell me the names

of some of them, too! As he handed out one skull and mentioned a man’s

name, I noticed that the nursemaid of the missionary’s wife, who was

standing by, looked rather queer; but as it was none of my business, I

took no notice. Later I found that the skull in question belonged to the

girl’s uncle! I do not believe she objected to my having the skull, but

that the other man should have the sixpence—the money had gone out of

the family. When paying the man I ticked off each skull on the fingers

of my left hand, and paid for it; but I had not enough sixpences, and so

gave him half a crown for five skulls. At this he looked very askance,

although I assured him the payment was quite correct. Fortunately Bruce

was standing by, and said he would give him five sixpences for it at

the store. My friend Baton made me one or two divining heads from these

skulls in the “old-time fashion.”

Hearing one day, during my former stay at Murray, that a woman had died,

and being grieved at the particular circumstances attending her death,

I determined to pay my visit of condolence. After dark I went to the

village where she had lived, and found her laid on the beach with her

head to the sea, and clothed in her best dress and wearing her new hat,

all her fancy calico being laid on the body. The husband was sitting at

the head, and close by were several men, women, and children laughing and

chattering over their evening meal. Then the brother came up and bent

over the body, wailing and sobbing.

Shortly afterwards a canoe was brought to convey the corpse to a more

populous village, so that they might have a good cry.

Then I saw one of the most impressive sights it has yet been my lot to

witness. It was a beautiful tropical moonlight night, the sand beach

being illuminated with soft whiteness by the moon, and countless stars

glittered overhead. On one side the strand was bordered by the gently

lapping waves of the calm ocean, and on the other by a grove of coconut

palms, their grey stems, arising from a confused shadow of undergrowth,

topped by sombre feathery crowns, a peaceful adjunct to a scene of

sorrow, and the antithesis of the ghastly mockeries of the funeral plumes

of the professional upholstery, which have only lately been abolished in

England. A small crowd of some twenty or so of us were walking along the

beach with the noiseless footfall of bare feet, keeping abreast of the

canoe which, with its sad freight, was poled along by the husband at one

end, and the brother at the other. As I saw the black silhouette of the

canoe and its crew against the moonlit sky and sea, silently gliding like

a veritable shadow of death, and heard the stillness of the air broken

by the moaning of the bereaved ones, my mind wandered back thousands of

years, and called up ancient Egypt carrying its dead in boats across the

sacred Nile—there with pomp, ceremony, and imagery, here with simplicity,

poverty, and stern realism.

At length we came to the village, the inclosure of which was covered with

family groups, mothers with babies surrounded by their families, and many

a little one was laid asleep upon the sand, well wrapped up to keep off

the flies.

The corpse was carried to a clear space, and again the gay trappings of

life were spread over the dead. An old woman, I believe the deceased’s

mother, came to the head, and sitting down, bent over the body and

commenced wailing. Then on all sides the cry was taken up mainly by the

groups of women who by this time had taken their places round the dead.

As one dropped out, another would join in, and so with varying accessions

in volume, occasionally dying away to all but silence, the mournful

sound continued through the night, rising and falling in weird manner,

recalling to my memory the keening I had heard in far-away Kerry eighteen

months previously.

Then I left them. The dead one surrounded by a changing circle of weeping

women; beyond, the family groups each illumined by its own flickering

fire, babies asleep, children playing, adults talking, young men

laughing, and a little love-making taking place in the background; and

above all the quiet, steady, bright face of the moon impassively gazing,

like Fate, on the vicissitudes of human life.

Head-hunters, black, white, and brown · 第 6 / 21 章