in which they are usually grown, nor should they be allowed to remain
for a great length of time dust-dry, as we sometimes find them. It is
important to remember that they have distinct seasons of activity and
rest, but must not be forced into either condition by such drastic
measures as are occasionally resorted to. The proper soil for them is
turfy loam, enriched with rotten manure, and rendered moderately porous
by an admixture of sand. The light soil in which many plants thrive
will not suit them; the soil must be firm, and somewhat rough in
texture. When first potted, give them very little water, and promote
growth by means of a bottom heat of 65°. Increase the supply of water
as the plants progress, and shift them into 6-inch pots for flowering.
While they are in flower they may be placed in the conservatory, or
wherever else they may be required for decorative purposes. When the
flowers have faded take them to the greenhouse to complete their
growth, after which dry them off slowly, but with the clear
understanding that they are never to be desiccated. They may be
wintered in the greenhouse, and should certainly be placed where they
will always be slightly moist, even if a few leaves remain green
throughout the winter. Frequent disturbance of the roots is to be
particularly avoided in the cultivation of Amaryllis, and therefore it
is desirable to allow them to remain in the same pots two or three
years; or if they are shifted on, it should be done in such a way that
the roots are scarcely seen in the process. Top dressing and liquid
manure will help them when they have been some time in the same pots.
Lilium auratum.—This magnificent Lily has proved to be as hardy as the
white garden variety, and is now freely planted in borders and
shrubberies where the noble heads of bloom always command admiration.
But the splendour of the flower will continue to insure for it a high
degree of favour as a decorative subject for the conservatory. When
grown in a pot the best soil is sandy peat, but it will flower finely
in a rich light mixture, such as Fuchsias require. It is advisable to
begin with the smallest pot in which the bulb can be placed, and then
to shift to larger and larger sizes as the plant progresses, taking
care to have the bulb two inches below the soil when in their flowering
pots, because roots are thrown out from the stem just above the bulb,
and these roots need to be carefully fed, as they are the main support
of the flowers that appear later. When the flower-buds are visible,
there should, of course, be no further shifting. In respect of
temperature, this is an accommodating Lily; but as a rule a cool house
is better for the plant than one which is maintained at a high
temperature. The supply of water should be plentiful during the period
of growth and flowering, but afterwards it can be reduced.
Lilium Harrisii (_The Bermuda, or Easter Lily_) is of the _longiflorum_
type, but the flowers are larger, and are produced with greater freedom
than by the ordinary _L. longiflorum_. Moreover, the Bermuda Lily
flowers almost continuously. Before one stem has finished blooming
another shoots up. This perennial habit gives it a peculiar value for
the greenhouse, and renders forcing possible at almost any season.
Immediately the bulbs are received they should be potted in rich
fibrous loam—the more fibrous the better—and be placed in a cold frame.
They need little water until growth has fairly commenced, after which
more moisture will be necessary. So far as safety is concerned, they
only require protection from frost; but for an early show of bloom
artificial heat is imperative. The temperature should, however, be very
moderate at first, and rise slowly. When the buds show, a top-dressing
of fresh loam and decayed manure will be helpful, and to allow for this
the soil must be two inches from the tops of the pots when the bulbs
are first potted. After producing two or three flowering stems, it will
be wise to place the pots out of doors and give less water, or the
bulbs will be exhausted. But they must never be allowed to become quite
dry, and after a partial rest of six weeks or two months they may be
re-potted in fresh soil and started for another show of bloom.
We do not recommend the planting of this Lily in open borders during
autumn, for growth will commence immediately, and a severe frost will
cut it down; but if planted in spring, it succeeds admirably, and will
produce a long succession of its handsome trumpet-shaped flowers. For
the following winter it can be either protected, or lifted for storing
in a frame.
Lilium lancifolium.—A graceful and highly perfumed Lily, which is
perfectly hardy, and will grow in good loam, though peat is to be
preferred for pot culture. To produce handsome specimens the same
routine must be followed as directed for the cultivation of _L.
auratum_. It scarcely need be added that, instead of growing the bulbs
separately in pots, several may be grown in a large pot to produce a
richer effect. But it is not advisable to place the bulbs in a large
mass of earth in the first instance. It is better that they should
commence their growth in small pots, and be shifted on as they require
more room. Aphis is extremely partial to these Lilies, particularly if
they are badly grown and allowed to suffer for the want of water. The
simplest way to remove the pest is to dip the plants in pure water,
taking care, of course, to prevent them from falling out of the pots in
the operation.
Lily of the Valley.—The popular name of this native plant is a
misnomer. Botanically it is known as _Convallaria majalis_, and
structurally the roots differ from those which are characteristic of
the whole tribe of Liliums. However, we have no quarrel with a charming
name for a most dainty flower of fairy-like proportions. The sprays of
pure white pendulous bells have captivated the popular fancy, and they
are in public demand from the moment florists are able to place them on
the market.
Whether for early or late spring forcing, or for planting in the open
ground, the most vigorous strain should be chosen, and there is one
which is incomparably superior to all others, producing finer spikes
and larger individual flowers. As a rule these roots are obtainable in
November, but, if necessary, it is far better to wait a week or two
than attempt to force such as have been lifted prematurely.
The crowns may be potted, and where few are grown this is the usual
course. The large growers pack them in boxes, with a little fine soil,
and cover the tops with about four inches of cocoa-nut fibre. For the
earliest supply a temperature of 90° is necessary, accompanied with
plenty of moisture. After the spikes of bloom show, slightly reduce the
temperature, and remove the fibre to afford the leaves an opportunity
of maturing. When sufficiently advanced transfer the plants to pots for
the conservatory or the decoration of windows. Successive supplies can
be brought forward with less heat.
In the open, Lily of the Valley require a partially shaded position.
The soil must be freely manured, and a good proportion of leaf-mould
worked in. Plant single crowns at a distance of six inches from each
other, and supply them with liquid manure during the growing period.
After four, or at most five years, they will become too crowded, when
they should be lifted, and the largest and finest crowns be selected
for the formation of a fresh bed.
Japanese Day Lily (_Hemerocallis Kwanso fl. pl._).—Admirably adapted
for pot culture to decorate the conservatory, the rich variegation of
its graceful curling leaves affording an elegant display of colour in
the early months of the year, and its fine double flowers being
extremely showy during their short blooming season. As this variety is
quite hardy, it may be planted in the select border with perfect
safety, and, in common with other Day Lilies, it bears the shade of
trees remarkably well. This is certainly one of the handsomest hardy
plants in cultivation.
MONTBRETIA
Of this useful autumn-flowering bulb there are several varieties, _M.
crocosmiflora_ probably being the most popular. In the warm and
sheltered gardens of the South and in light well-drained soil the roots
pass the winter safely. But where frost prevails some protection, such
as a small mound of litter, must be provided; the covering to be
removed immediately the danger of frost is past. The most favourable
time for planting is the autumn, but during open weather the roots may
be put in up to the end of March. It is usual to plant in clumps at a
depth of about three inches, allowing a distance of six inches between
the corms. As they may remain undisturbed for several years the spacing
will permit them to spread and produce masses of their graceful
flowers.
NARCISSUS
Narcissi and Daffodils differ from Hyacinths, Tulips, and some other
bulbs in one particular which is important, because it furnishes the
key to the management of these flowers. The rootlets do not perish
during the season of rest, and this fact clearly indicates that the
bulbs should not remain out of ground for a day longer than is
necessary.
Culture in Pots.—All the Polyanthus class, and almost all the Garden
varieties, thrive in pots, and can be forced with extreme ease. Pot
them early in any rich, porous compost, and put them into the soil a
little deeper than is usual for Hyacinths. For a few weeks keep them in
a cool spot in the open ground under a thick covering of ashes to
promote root-growth without prematurely starting the tops. With all
bulbs this is an important point, especially for such as are intended
to be brought forward in heat. When the pots are full of roots,
leaf-growth will commence, and the covering should be removed. A cool
pit is then the best place for them. The after-treatment will depend
entirely on the date the flowers are wanted. A low temperature, long
continued, means late flowering, so that within reasonable limits the
grower can control the time of their appearance. For the earliest
display select the Roman and Paper White, which are naturally
early-blooming varieties. After a few days in a cool pit, transfer to
the greenhouse, and about a week or ten days before they are needed in
flower plunge them in a brisk bottom heat, and give plenty of water of
the proper temperature. The forcing should not begin until the plants
are sufficiently advanced, or it will injure the flowers in both size
and colour. Weak manure water will be beneficial occasionally, but when
the blossoms begin to open this must be discontinued, and at the same
time the heat should be diminished.
A succession of Narcissi for indoor decoration can be secured by
starting batches at intervals of two or three weeks; and by moderating
the treatment as the season advances, the last lot will flower
naturally without artificial stimulus. Large bulbs should be potted
singly, but several roots of the smaller sorts may be put into one pot.
Heavy heads of bloom will need support, and there is nothing neater
than the wires which are made expressly for the purpose.
Culture in Moss-fibre.—The lightsome charm of Narcissi and Daffodils is
never seen to greater advantage than when these are grown in bowls of
fibre for the decoration of rooms. Well-filled bowls of Daffodils are
as delightful indoors as are sturdy clumps nodding over grass or
Polyanthuses in the open air. The cultural routine is clean, pleasant,
and full of interest. The bowls are chosen with care, the fibre is well
saturated by repeated turning and moistening (this is essential to
success), enough crushed oyster shell is incorporated to make the
compost glisten brightly through and through, the mixture is pressed
into the bowl until it is firm without being hard, the bulbs are half
embedded, a few pieces of charcoal are pushed in here and there, the
bowls are put in a dark place for six weeks or so, and the rest is
merely to see that the fibre never gets dry.
Culture in Water.—For growing in glasses no other bulbous flower is
equal to the Narcissus. Darkness at the outset is not essential to it,
and therefore the gradual development of the roots may be observed from
the time they start; and contact with water will do no harm to the
bulb. The glasses should, however, be kept in a low and fairly uniform
temperature, to discourage the growth of foliage until the bulbs have
fully formed their roots. Pure rain water is desirable, but it is not
actually necessary; and for the sake of appearances, as well as on the
score of health, it should be changed immediately it ceases to be quite
transparent. Those who do not care to observe the growth in glasses,
but like to have the plants in water during the blooming period, may
grow the bulbs in pots in the usual way, and wash off the soil when
wanted. In this case the roots will not be quite so regular as those
which have been wholly grown in water. Perhaps we need scarcely say
that it is possible to utilise this flower in many other ways—such, for
instance, as in decorating épergnes, glass globes, and fancy vases.
They may also be made to float on a small fountain or aquarium; indeed,
it is surprising to what varied and effective purposes a little
ingenuity will adapt them.
Culture in Open Ground.—For this purpose the Narcissus will always
command attention for its graceful appearance; and this observation
applies with as much force to the Polyanthus section, when thus used,
as to the varieties which are specially recognised as Garden Narcissus.
The latter class includes many old favourites, among which is the
Pheasant’s Eye—one of the most exquisite flowers grown in our gardens.
The Narcissus is often used for bedding with superb effect. The
graceful habit, which is one of its principal charms, is very striking
in large masses, and its elegant appearance in the positions for which
it is naturally suited cannot fail to arrest attention. Beneath trees,
by the side of a shady walk, in front of shrubberies, or in the mixed
border, the Narcissus is thoroughly at home.
If possible, choose a position where the bulbs need not be disturbed
for several years, and plant them early. When the spot they are to
occupy happens to be full, pot the bulbs until the ground is vacant,
and in due time turn them out. A southern or western aspect is
desirable, but the nature of the soil is comparatively unimportant,
provided it is dry when the bulbs are in their resting state. In sour
land or in stagnant water they will certainly rot, but a touch of sea
spray will not injure them. If the soil needs enriching, there is no
better material than decayed cow-manure, which may be incorporated as
the work goes on, or it can be applied as a top-dressing. Those which
are evidently weak may be assisted with a few doses of manure water,
not too strong.
In planting groups, put the smaller bulbs four or five inches, and the
larger sorts from six to nine inches apart; depth, six to nine inches,
according to size. Where exposed to a strong wind, it may be necessary
to give the flowers some kind of support to save them from injury.
The Double and Single Daffodils are now in marked public favour and
their bright colours make them extremely useful for beds and borders.
For planting under and among trees they are invaluable, and a
sufficient number should always be put in to produce an immediate
effect. They thrive in damp, shady spots, and every three or four years
it will be necessary to divide and replant them.
The Chinese Sacred Lily (_Narcissus Tazetta_).—The popular name of this
flower is misleading. It is not a Lily, but a Narcissus of the
Polyanthus type, and, like others of the same class, the bulbs may be
successfully grown in soil or in water. But _Narcissus Tazetta_ has
proved to be singularly beautiful in water, and the management of it
entails very little trouble. A wide bowl of Japanese pattern is
appropriate for the purpose, and to obtain the best effect the bowl
should be partially filled with a number of plain or ornamental stones,
with a few pieces of charcoal to keep the water sweet. On the top, and
so that they will be held by the stones, place one or more bulbs: pour
in water until it covers the base of the bulbs. Store in a dark cool
cellar until the roots have started and the leaves begin to appear;
then remove to the room where the ornament is wanted. Occasionally the
water must be replenished. The development of the flower-heads is
surprisingly rapid, and a large bulb generally produces several
clusters of sweetly scented flowers. But if the bulbs are forced too
quickly the blossoms are sometimes crippled.
ORNITHOGALUM
Star of Bethlehem
During the month of June _O. arabicum_ produces heads of pure white
fragrant flowers, each having a green centre. The roots are large and
fleshy, and should be planted in the autumn six inches deep. A
sheltered position, such as under a south wall, is desirable for them,
and some protection in the form of dry litter, or a heap of light
manure, will be necessary to carry the roots safely through severe
winter weather. The bulbs are frequently potted for indoor decoration.
Another variety, _O. umbellatum_, with pure white starry flowers, makes
an attractive show in May, and is valuable for naturalising in clumps
or masses in the border.
OXALIS
These frame plants are suitable for the cool greenhouse or for forcing,
and they are adapted also for the open border in peculiarly favourable
districts. They are particularly neat and cheerful, flowering
abundantly, and requiring only the most ordinary treatment of frame
plants. In winter they should be kept dry. The 48-sized pot is
suitable, and about five bulbs may be planted in each, using light soil
freely mixed with sand.
RANUNCULUS
To maintain a collection of named Ranunculuses demands skill and
patience, but a few of the most brilliant self-coloured, spotted and
striped varieties may be easily grown, if a cool, deep, rich, moist
soil can be provided for them. The best soil for the Ranunculus is a
loam or clay in which the common field Buttercup grows freely and
plentifully. The situation should be open, the bed well pulverised, and
the soil effectively drained, both to promote a vigorous growth and, as
far as possible, to save the plants from injury by wireworms,
leather-jackets, and other ground vermin. Elaborate modes of manuring,
such as mixing several sorts of manure together in mystical
proportions, are altogether unnecessary, but a good dressing of rotten
manure and leaf-mould should be dug in before planting, and if the soil
is particularly heavy, sharp sand must be added. The roots may be
planted in November and December in gardens where vegetation does not
usually suffer from damp in winter; but where there is any reason to
apprehend danger from damp, the planting should be deferred until
February, and should be completed within the first twenty days of that
month, if weather permit. Prepare a fine surface to plant on, and draw
drills six inches apart and two inches deep, and place the tubers,
claws downwards, in the drills, four inches apart, covering them with
sifted soil before drawing the earth back to the drill. Rake the bed
smooth, and the planting is completed. To keep free from weeds, and to
give plentiful supplies of water in dry weather, are the two principal
features of the summer cultivation. When the flowers are past, and the
leaves begin to fade, take up the roots, dry them in a cool place, and
store in peat or cocoa-nut fibre.
Turban Ranunculus.—This class is remarkably handsome, of hardier
constitution and freer growth than the edged and spotted varieties. For
the production of masses of colour, and to form showy clumps in the
borders, the Turban varieties are of the utmost value. They require a
good loam, well manured, and the general treatment advised for the
named varieties; but as they are not so delicate they will thrive under
less congenial conditions.
SCILLA
The Blue Squill may be grown in exactly the same manner as the Roman
Hyacinth for indoor decoration, and it makes a charming companion to
that flower. It is perfectly hardy, and for its deep, lovely blue
should be largely grown in the open border, where it appears to
especial advantage in conjunction with Snowdrops. It is also valuable
for filling small beds, and for making marginal lines in the geometric
garden.
The _Scilla præcox_, or _sibirica_, thrives on the mountains of North
Italy, where masses of it may be seen growing close to the snow, and in
this country it withstands wind and rain which would be the ruin of
many another flower. Still we like to see it in a sheltered border,
where it has a fair chance of displaying its beauty without much risk
of injury. In such a position it will flower in February, and in the
bleakest quarter it will open in March. It is not at all fastidious as
to soil, but when planted will give no further trouble until the
foliage withers, and it is time to lift the bulbs to make way for other
occupants. If convenient, the roots may remain for years in one spot.
The _Scilla campanulata_ deserves more attention than it has hitherto
received. After almost all other spring-flowering bulbs are over, it
makes a beautiful display, which lasts until nearly the end of May. It
somewhat resembles the wild Blue-bell, but is much larger than that
woodland flower.
SNOWDROP
Snowdrops are among the hardiest flowers known to our gardens, and are
invaluable for their welcome snow-white bells in the earliest days of
the opening spring. They should be planted in clumps, and left alone
for years. The double-flowering variety is exquisitely beautiful: we
might, indeed, speak of it as a bit of floral jewellery. The flowers
are bell-shaped, closely packed with petals, like so many microscopic
petticoats arranged for the ‘tiring’ of a fairy: they are snow-white
and sometimes delicately tipped with light green. This variety is as
hardy as the single, and the best for growing in baskets and pots. When
employed in lines the planting ought to be very close together, and the
line should be composed of several rows, making, in fact, a broad band.
Such a ribbon when backed with _Scilla sibirica_ is very beautiful. The
best way of displaying the Snowdrop alone is in large groups densely
crowded together. The effect is much more telling than when the same
number of bulbs is spread over a larger area. Put the roots in drills,
two inches deep, and if possible in a spot where they need not be
disturbed for two or three years. Snowdrops may be grown in pots, and
be gently forced for Christmas. But unless wanted very early, it will
answer to lift clumps from the border in November and pot them.
SPARAXIS
See instructions under Ixia at page 338.
TIGRIDIA, or FERRARIA
The short-lived blossoms of the Tiger Flower are most gorgeously
painted, and differ from everything else of the great family of Irids
to which they belong. Much finer flowers are produced in the border
than when grown in pots, and they present great variety, scarcely any
two amongst hundreds showing flowers exactly alike. The usual time of
planting outdoors is March or April, at a depth of three or four
inches, and the flowers appear in June. Sandy loam and peaty soils are
especially suitable. Although Tigridias are not quite hardy they will
on a dry border pass the winter securely beneath a protection of
litter. But where the soil is damp it is safer to lift them in October
and store in the same manner as Gladioli. A bed of Tigridias makes an
agreeable ornament in front of the window of a breakfast-room, as the
flowers are in a brilliant state in the early hours of the day.
TRITELEIA UNIFLORA
This little gem belongs to the spring garden, and should be the
companion of the Dog’s-tooth Violet, the Crocus, and the Snowdrop. It
will grow in any soil, and will produce an abundance of its
violet-tinted white flowers, which, when handled, emit a faint odour of
garlic. As a pot plant for the Alpine house it is first-rate. In the
open, plant in October two inches deep.
TRITONIA
Tritonias are more showy than the Ixia or Sparaxis, but belong to the
same group of South African Irids, and require the same treatment. They
may be planted out in April, if prepared for that mode of cultivation
by putting them in small pots in November or December. It is not
advisable to tie them to sticks, for they are more elegant when allowed
to fall over the edge of the pots, and suggest the ‘negligence of
Nature.’
TROPÆOLUM
_T. tuberosum._—A few of the tuberous-rooted Tropæolums are hardy, but
it is not wise to leave them in the ground, for damp may destroy them,
if they are proof against frost. They are all graceful trailing plants,
adapted for covering wire trellises, and may be flowered at any season
if required, though their natural season is the summer. The compost in
which they thrive best is a light rich loam, containing a large
proportion of sand. The stems are usually trained on wires, but they
may be allowed to fall down from a pot or basket with excellent effect,
to form a most attractive tracery of leafage dotted with dazzling
flowers. The sunniest part of the greenhouse should be devoted to the
Tropæolums, and special care should be taken in potting them to secure
ample drainage.
_T. speciosum._—This showy variety is quite hardy, and is largely grown
in Scotland where it may frequently be seen on cottage walls. The roots
may be planted in either spring or autumn, and a moist, somewhat shaded
position best suits the plant.
TUBEROSE
Polianthes tuberosa