year’s flowers so much that it is important to accomplish lifting at
the most suitable time, and the storing in the best manner. By the
middle or end of October, on some fine day, take up the roots, even if
the foliage be still green; tie a label to each variety, and hang them
in some airy place until they can be cleared of soil and leaves. Remove
each stem with a sharp knife, and lay out the bulbs to dry for another
fortnight. They can then be stored in paper bags or in boxes on any dry
shelf which is safe from vermin and frost.
An article on the culture of the Gladiolus from seed will be found on
page 267.
GLOXINIA
Gloxinias may be had in bloom almost all the year by judicious
management. When required for early flowering, those that start first
should be selected and carefully shifted into other pots, and be kept
near the glass, as they depend much on light for rapid and luxuriant
growth. A moist atmosphere, with the temperature about 60° to 65°,
greatly facilitates the growth of Gloxinias, but they may be grown well
in greenhouses or in pits heated by hot water. The most suitable soil
is a light fibrous loam, combined with a little peat and silver sand.
Manure water during the growing period twice a week is helpful, but it
should be discontinued when the flowers show colour. The plants love
shade, and at no time should suffer from drought. Storing Gloxinias for
their season of rest, _i.e._ the winter, must be carefully attended to,
as losses frequently occur during this stage. It is also important that
the plants should not be ‘dried off’ too quickly; place them in a
light, airy position, and by a gradual reduction of moisture the leaves
will fall off naturally. The bulbs may then be stored away on a shelf,
in an even temperature of about 50°, each bulb being closely surrounded
by cocoa-nut fibre and peat in equal parts to prevent excessive
dryness, which, like too much damp, often causes the loss of the bulb.
Besides growing the same plants from year to year, it is always
desirable to have a fresh stock coming on, as the old bulbs may
deteriorate after two or three years. This can easily be managed by
successive sowings of seed, as advised at page 268.
HEMEROCALLIS—_see under_ LILIES, _page 343_
HYACINTH
One of the most valuable characteristics of the Hyacinth is the ease
with which it can be flowered in a variety of ways by very simple modes
of treatment. It may be employed as a hardy, rough-weather plant for
the garden border, or as a grand exhibition and conservatory flower.
The bulbs may be planted at any time from September to the middle of
December, with the certainty of their blooming well, if properly cared
for; but the prudent cultivator will plant them as early as possible in
the autumn, and so manage them afterwards as to secure the longest
period of growth previous to their flowering. They can be forced to
flower at Christmas, but the more slowly the flowers are developed the
finer in the end will they be. To obtain good bulbs is a matter of the
utmost importance, and it may be useful here to remark that the mere
size of a Hyacinth bulb is no criterion of its value—nor, indeed, is
its neatness of form or brightness of appearance. The two most
important qualities are soundness and density. If the bulbs are hard
and heavy in proportion to their size, they may be depended on to
produce good flowers of their kind. The bulbs of some sorts are never
large or handsome, while, on the other hand, many others partake of
both these qualities in a marked degree.
One other matter in general relating to the treatment of Hyacinths
needs to be referred to. Harm has often been done by the practice of
massing the flowers, whether in pot groups or in garden beds, without
consideration of colour harmonies. Yet no other bulbous flower offers
such a wide choice of delightful colours, or is so eminently adapted to
artistic blending, as the Hyacinth. By eschewing the dull blues and
allied shades and by bringing into association exquisite tones of
mauve, pink, apricot, salmon, pale yellow, rich lilac, bright red, &c.,
it is easy to demonstrate that there are possibilities in Hyacinths
which may never have been suspected before. The following are a few of
the charming blends which may be made, and will especially appeal to
those who grow Hyacinths indoors: (i) Apricot, cream, and pale blue;
(2) cream, pale pink, and rose-pink; (3) bright pink and pale blue; (4)
bright red, rich blue, and pure white; (5) rose-pink and rich blue; (6)
pale yellow and rich blue; (7) deep mauve and pale mauve; (8) cream and
pale blue; (9) bright blue shades (dull, washy, and nondescript blue,
purple, and violet tints must be avoided); (10) blush pink and
rose-pink; (11) apricot and cream; (12) pale lavender, cream, and
apricot. These examples will show that charming effects can be secured
either with two or with three varieties. Colour-grouping may also be
carried out in the garden, but in this case great care must be
exercised to get varieties of clear, bright hues which flower at the
same time, such as Inimitable Bedding Hyacinths. Modern taste further
dictates that the bare soil shall be hidden, and this end is best
served by providing a groundwork of dwarf plants, such as Daisies,
Forget-me-nots, double white Arabis, and mauve Aubrietia. Another
course is to mix Hyacinths with Daffodils of the Chalice or Star
section; there is no better variety than Sir Watkin, but others may be
used.
Culture in Pots.—It is not necessary to use large pots, or pots of a
peculiar shape, for Hyacinths. There is nothing better than common
flower-pots, and in those of 60-size single bulbs may be flowered in a
most satisfactory manner. The pots usually employed are the 48-and
32-sizes, the last-named being required only for selected bulbs grown
for exhibition. We advise the use of small pots where Hyacinths are
grown in pits and frames for decorative purposes, because they can be
conveniently placed in ornamental stands, or packed close together in
baskets of moss, when required for the embellishment of the
drawing-room. As the use of new pots for Hyacinths is often the cause
of failure, they should not be employed if well-cleansed old pots are
available. The tender roots of the bulbs frequently become too dry
owing to the absorbent nature of the new pots. A rich, light soil is
indispensable, and it should consist chiefly of turfy loam, with
leaf-mould and a liberal allowance of sharp sand. The mixture ought to
be in a moderately moist condition when ready for use. In small pots
one hollow crock must suffice, but the 48-and 32-sized pots can be
prepared in the usual way, with one large hollow crock, and a little
heap of smaller potsherds or nodules of charcoal over it. Fill the pots
quite full of soil, and then press the bulb into it, and press the soil
round the bulb to finish the operation. If potted loosely, they will
not thrive; if potted too firmly, they will rise up as soon as the
roots begin to grow, and be one-sided. In large pots the bulbs should
be nearly covered with soil, but in small pots they must be only half
covered, in order to afford them the largest possible amount of
root-room. When potted, a cool place must be found for them, and unless
they go absolutely dry, they should not have a drop of water until they
begin to grow freely and are in the enjoyment of full daylight. The
pots may be stored in a dark, cool pit, or any out-of-the-way place
where neither sun, nor frost, nor heavy rains will affect them; but it
is advisable to plunge them in coal-ashes and also to cover them with a
few inches of the ashes. As to their removal, they must be taken out as
wanted for forcing, and certainly before they push up their flower
spikes, as they will do if they remain too long in the bed. The
cultivator will be guided in respect of their removal from the bed by
circumstances; but when they are removed, a distinct routine of
treatment must be observed, or the flowering will be unsatisfactory.
For a short time they should be placed in subdued daylight, that the
blanched growth may acquire a healthy green hue slowly; and they need
to be kept cool in order that they shall grow very little until a
healthy colour is acquired. The floor of a cool greenhouse is a good
place for them when first taken out of the bed and cleaned up for
forcing. Another matter of great importance is to place them near the
glass immediately their green colour is established, and to grow them
as slowly as the requirements of the case will permit. If to be forced
early, allow plenty of time to train them to bear a great heat, taking
from bed to pit, and from pit to cool house, and deferring to the
latest possible moment placing them in the heat in which they are to
flower. Those to bloom at Christmas should be potted in September,
those to follow may be potted a month later. If a long succession is
required, a sufficient number should be potted every two or three weeks
to the end of the year. Those potted latest will, of course, flower in
frames without the aid of heat. In any and every case the highest
temperature of the forcing-pit should be 70°; to go beyond that point
will cause an attenuated growth and poverty of colour. If liquid manure
is employed at all, it should be used constantly and extremely weak
until the flowers begin to expand, and then pure soft water only should
be used. No matter what may be the particular constitution of the
liquid manure, it must be weak, or it will do more harm than good. The
spikes should be supported by wires or neat sticks in ample time, and a
constant watch kept to see that the stems are not cut or bent, as they
rapidly develop beyond the range allowed them by their supports.
Culture in Glasses.—It is of little consequence whether rain, river, or
spring water be employed in this mode of culture, but it must be pure,
and in the glasses it should nearly but not quite touch the bulbs.
Store at once in a dark, cool place, to encourage the bulbs to send
their roots down into the water before the leaves begin to grow. When
the roots are developed, bring the glasses from the dark to the light,
in order that leaves and flowers may be in perfect health. Let them
have as much light as possible, with an equable temperature, and
provide supports in good time. Hyacinths are often injured by being
kept in rooms that are at times extremely cold and at others heated to
excess. Those who wish to grow the bulbs to perfection in glasses
should remove them occasionally as circumstances may require, to
prevent the injury that must otherwise result from rapid and extreme
alternations of temperature. It is not desirable to introduce to the
water any stimulating substance, but the glasses must be kept nearly
full of water by replenishing as it disappears. If the leaves become
dusty, they may be cleansed with a soft brush or a sponge dipped in
water, but particular care must be taken not to injure them in the
process.
Culture in Moss-fibre.—While Hyacinths, differing from Daffodils and
Tulips, are perhaps relatively better in pots of soil than in bowls of
moss-fibre, they may still be grown successfully in bowls provided a
fairly deep receptacle is chosen and care is taken to avoid making the
fibre hard. With a shallow bowl and very firm fibre it may be found
that the roots strike upward and the plant does not get that abundant
supply of moisture which is essential to its welfare. For this method
of culture preference should be given to the Roman, Giant Italian,
Christmas Pink, Miniature and Grape Hyacinths, which look particularly
charming in bowls and similar contrivances. Detailed directions are
given on page 319.
Culture in Beds.—The Hyacinth will grow well in any ordinary garden
soil, but that which suits it best is a light rich loam. The bed should
be effectually drained, for though the plant loves moisture it cannot
thrive in a bog during the winter. It is advisable to plant early, and
to plant deep. If a rich effect is required, especially in beds near
the windows of a residence, the bulbs should be six inches apart, but
at a greater distance a good effect may be produced by planting nine
inches apart. The time of blooming may be to some extent influenced by
the time and manner of planting, but no strict rules can be given to
suit particular instances. Late planting and deep planting both tend to
defer the time of blooming, although there will not be a great
difference in any case, and as a rule the late bloom is to be
preferred, because less liable to injury from frost. The shallowest
planting should insure a depth of three inches of earth above the crown
of the bulb, but they will flower better, and only a few days later, if
covered with full six inches of earth over the crowns. The Hyacinth is
so hardy that protection need not be thought of, except in peculiar
cases of unusual exposure, or on the occurrence of an excessively low
temperature when they are growing freely. Under any circumstances,
there is no protection so effectual as dry litter, but a thin coat of
half-rotten manure spread over the bed is to be preferred in the event
of danger being apprehended at any time before the growth has fairly
pushed through.
The bulbs may be taken up as soon as the leaves acquire a yellow
colour, so that the brilliant display of spring may be immediately
followed by another, equally brilliant perhaps, but in character
altogether different. When grown in beds, Hyacinths do not require
water or sticks; all they need is to be planted properly, and they will
take care of themselves.
Miniature Hyacinths.—These charming little sparkling gems are
invaluable for baskets, bowls and other contrivances which are adapted
for the choicest decorative purposes. In quality they are excellent,
the spikes being symmetrical, the flowers well formed, and the colours
brilliant. But they are true miniatures, growing about half the size of
the other kinds, and requiring less soil to root in. They will flower
well if planted in a mixture of moss-fibre and charcoal, kept
constantly moist, and covered with the greenest moss, to give to the
ornament containing them a finished appearance.
Feather and Grape Hyacinths will grow in any good garden soil, and are
admirably adapted for borders that are shaded by trees. They should be
planted in large clumps, and be allowed to remain several years
undisturbed. Both classes are beautiful—the Feather Hyacinth
emphatically so; indeed, numerous as beautiful flowers are, this, for
delicacy of structure, has peculiar claims to our admiration, when
presenting its feathery plumes a foot or more in length, all cut into
curling threads of the most elegant tenuity. Grape Hyacinths make a
charming ornament for the drawing-room when grown in bowls of
moss-fibre.
Roman Hyacinth.—This flower is particularly welcome in the short, dark
days of November, December, and January. For placing in glasses to
decorate the drawing-room or dinner-table the spikes of bloom are
largely grown; and the separate flowers, mounted on wire, form an
important feature in winter bouquets, for which purpose their delicious
perfume renders them especially valuable.
The bulbs can be grown with the utmost ease. Pot them immediately they
can be obtained in August or September, and stand them in some spare
corner in the open ground, where they can be covered with a few inches
of leaf-mould. This will encourage the roots to start before there is
any top growth. In October remove the covering, and transfer the pots
to a pit or frame, or they may be placed under the greenhouse stage for
a time, provided they will not be in the way of dripping water. A
little later, room should be found for them upon the stage, or the
foliage may become drawn. When the buds are visible, plunge the pots in
a bottom heat of 65° or 70°, and in a week the flowers will be fit for
use. Like its more imposing prototype, the Roman Hyacinth may have its
roots gently freed from soil for packing in bowls or vases filled with
wet moss or sand; but they ought not to be subjected to a violent
change of temperature. If wanted in glasses, they can be grown in water
after the usual fashion, but the flower is scarcely adapted for this
mode of treatment. They will, however, grow well in bowls filled with
moss-fibre.
Italian Hyacinth.—Although rather later in flowering than the Roman
variety, the Italian Hyacinth deserves to be grown as a pot plant,
especially for its more lasting quality. The graceful flowers are
carried on long stout stems which are most effective for the decoration
of vases. The bulbs are perfectly hardy, and may be planted in clumps
in the open border, where they will bloom in April and afford abundant
sprays for cutting. The habit is less formal than that of the Dutch
Hyacinth and the flowers exhale a sweet delicate perfume. As previously
stated, the Italian Hyacinth is especially suitable for growing in
moss-fibre.
HYACINTHUS CANDICANS
An excellent companion to Delphiniums, Salvias, and perennial Lobelias
in the mixed border. The stately spikes of this flower also associate
well with shrubs, and help to enliven a bed of Rhododendrons at a
period of the year when the latter is uninteresting. Roots may be
planted in any soil from November to March; and, as they are perfectly
hardy, they can be left in the open ground all the year without the
least misgiving as to their safety. A strong root will produce a
succession of flower-spikes, and this tendency will be assisted by
cutting off each spike immediately it has ceased to be attractive.
IRIS
The common varieties of Iris are well-known favourites of the border,
and the whole family have claims on the attention of amateurs, on
account of their excellent faculty of taking care of themselves if
properly planted in the first instance. The tuberous or bulbous rooted
kinds do not require a rich soil; a sandy loam suits them, and they
thrive in peat. Such beautiful species as Reticulata, the Chalcedonian,
and the Peacock are worth growing in pots placed in frames or in a cool
greenhouse. The English, Dutch, and Spanish varieties should be planted
in clumps in front of a shrubbery border, where they may be seen to
advantage. The crown of the bulb must not be more than three inches
below the surface. From September to December will answer for planting,
and the roots may be taken up when the flowering period is over, or if
the space is not wanted they can be allowed to remain for the following
season. Bulbs of the English class should never be kept out of the
ground longer than can be helped, but they ought not to be grown in one
spot for more than three years; after that time the clumps must be
divided and a fresh position found for them.
IXIA and SPARAXIS
These attractive Cape bulbs are hardy in favoured districts, and may be
left out for years in a sheltered border. In places where none but the
hardiest plants pass through the winter safely, they must be grown in
the greenhouse or the frame, and any good sandy soil will suit them,
whether peat or loam. They should be potted early in the autumn, and
have plenty of air at all times when the weather is favourable,
especially when they are growing freely in spring. If carefully
managed, they may remain two seasons in the same pots. Use the 48-size,
and plant four or five bulbs in each. A dry, deep, sandy border under a
wall in any of the warmer western and southern districts might be
furnished with such plants as Ixias, Sparaxis, Alstroemerias, Oxalis,
Tritonias, Babianas, and the choicest of the smaller kinds of Iris. It
would constitute a garden of the most interesting exotics.
JONQUIL
For its delicious fragrance and exquisite beauty the Jonquil has long
been considered one of the most valuable of the Narciss family for
cultivation in pots, and it is also a first-rate border and woodland
flower. When forced, the treatment should agree as nearly as possible
with that prescribed for the Narcissus. Four or five bulbs may be
planted in one pot.
LACHENALIA
An elegant plant which is not quite hardy enough to be trusted in the
open ground; but it is the easiest matter possible to grow it well in
the greenhouse. The bulbs should be potted as soon as they begin to
grow in the autumn, and several bulbs may be put into each pot. There
can be no better soil than turfy loam, without manure or sand. It is of
the utmost importance that the plants should have abundance of water,
when they will produce leaves two inches across, and spikes of flowers
fully double the size of those commonly met with. An admirable use for
these bulbs is to insert them all over the outside of hanging-baskets,
which they will cover with the most graceful display of aërial
vegetation imaginable, the flower-spikes turning upwards, and the
leaves hanging down.
LEUCOJUM
The Spring Snowflake (_L. vernum_) blooms as early as February or
March, and the Summer Snowflake (_L. æstivum_) comes into flower in May
and June. They closely resemble the Snowdrop, but are much larger than
that well-known spring favourite. The bulbs are perfectly hardy, and
will grow in any garden soil. Plant in clumps three inches deep, any
time from the end of September until the middle of November.
LILIES
Hardy border Lilies are among the most useful garden plants known. They
are peculiarly hardy and robust, requiring no support from sticks or
ties; several of them remain green all the winter, and are capable of
resisting any amount of frost. If left alone, they increase rapidly,
and become more valuable every year. We will say nothing of their
beauty, for that is proverbial; but it may be useful to observe that
many of the most lovely Lilies, usually regarded as only suitable for
the greenhouse, and grown with great care under glass, are really as
hardy as the old common white Lily, and may be grown with it in the
same border. To grow Lilies well requires a deep, moist, rich loam. A
stubborn clay may be improved for them by deep digging, and
incorporating with the staple plenty of rotten manure and leaf-mould.
They all thrive in peat, or rotten turf, or, indeed, in any soil
containing an abundance of decomposing vegetable matter. The autumn is
the proper time to plant Lilies, but they may be planted at any season,
if they can be obtained in a dormant state or growing in pots. They
should be planted deep for their size, say, never less than six inches.
After they have stood some years it is necessary to lift and part the
clumps, when the borders should be deeply dug and liberally manured
before replanting. If the stems of Lilies become leafless and unsightly
before the flowers are past, it is a sign that the roots are too dry,
or that the soil is impoverished; and therefore, as soon as the stems
die down, they should be lifted, and perhaps transferred to a more
favourable spot.