sow again in quantity for winter supplies. In mild weather, put out the
plants from the earlier sowings made in frames as soon as they are fit
and well hardened.
Brussels Sprouts.—Look after the bed sown last month, and sow again for
the main crop. The best possible seed-bed is wanted and a rich
well-tilled soil for the plants when put out.
Cabbage of two or three kinds should be sown now to supply plants for
filling up as crops are taken off, and also to patch and mend where
failures happen. Where the owner of a garden has opportunities of
helping his poorer neighbours, he may confer a real benefit by
supplying them with Cabbage and Winter Greens for planting in their
garden plots. Cottagers too often begin with bad stocks—very much to
their discouragement in gardening, and to the loss of wholesome food
the garden should supply. The rankest manure may be employed in
preparing ground for Cabbage, reserving the well-rotted manure for
seed-beds and other purposes for which it will be required. A sowing of
Red Cabbage now will insure heads for pickling in autumn.
Carrot.—Sow one of the quick-growing varieties at the first
opportunity, but wait for signs of settled spring weather to sow the
main crops of large sorts.
Cauliflower.—Plant out as weather permits from hand-lights and frames,
choosing the best ground for this vegetable. In preparing a plot for
Cauliflower, use plenty of manure; and if it is only half-rotten, it
will be better than if it were old and mellow.
Celeriac.—So far as seed sowing is concerned, Celeriac may be treated
in the same way as Celery.
Celery.—For the earliest supply, sow on the first of the month a pinch
of seed of one or more of the smaller red or white sorts on a mild
hot-bed, or in an early vinery. As soon as the plants are large enough
to handle, prick them out three inches apart on a nice mellow bed of
rich soil on a half-spent hot-bed; give them plenty of light, with free
ventilation as weather allows, and constant supplies of water. About
the middle of the month sow again and prick out as before; but if no
hot-bed is available, a well-prepared bed in a frame in a sunny
position will answer; or, if the season is somewhat advanced, a bed of
rotten manure, two or three inches deep, on a piece of hard ground,
will suffice, if the plants are kept regularly watered. From this bed
they will lift with nice roots for planting out, scarcely feeling the
removal at all.
Chives to be divided and re-planted on a spot which has not previously
been occupied with the crop.
Cucumber.—The vines should now be in a flourishing condition, but it is
necessary to look forward to the day when they will fall into the sere
and yellow leaf. More seed sown singly in pots will provide a
succession of plants. Re-pot them once or twice if desirable, and when
large enough turn them out between the first lot. As the old plants
fail, the new-comers will supply their places. Setting the bloom, as it
is called, is not only useless, but is a mischievous procedure. It
results in the enlargement of one end of the fruit, and ruins its
appearance. If seed be the object, of course the process is
justifiable; but for the table a ‘bottle nose’ cannot be regarded as an
ornament. Besides, the ripening of seed in a single fruit will
materially diminish the usefulness of the plant, and perhaps entirely
end its career. Stopping the vine is a necessity, but it should not be
done too soon. In the early stage of growth, it reduces the vigour of
the plant and retards its fruiting; but when the fruit is visible,
stopping aids its development and at the same time tends to regulate
and equalise the growth.
Frame culture of Cucumbers is usually begun in March. There are men who
can produce fruit from hot-beds all the year round, but it is a
difficult task, and as a rule ought not to be expected. At this time of
year, however, success is fairly within reach of ordinary skill. In
quite the early part of the month put seed singly into pots which must
be kept in a warm, moist place. The plants will then be ready for
frames at the end of the month. The most important business is the
preparation of the bed, and in this, as in all else, there is a right
and a wrong way of doing the work. Accurately set out the space on
which it is to be made. If there is plenty of manure, make the bed
large enough to project eighteen inches beyond the lights all round.
But if manure is scarce, cut the margin closer, and trust to a hot
lining when the heat begins to flag. Commence with the outside of the
bed, employing the long stuff in its construction; and keep this part
of the work a little in advance of the centre until the full height is
reached. A bed made in this way will not fall to pieces, and the heat
will be durable in proportion to its size and thickness. Where fallen
leaves are abundant, they should be used for the middle of the bed, and
they will give a more lasting heat than short manure. When the bed has
settled down to a steady temperature, add six or nine inches of mellow
loam over the entire surface, upon which place the frames. To insure
drainage, it is an excellent plan to lay common flake hurdles on the
top of the heap before adding the soil. These do not in the least
interfere with the free running of the roots. It is usual to have two
plants under each light, but where the management is good, one is quite
enough. The subsequent work consists of shading and sheltering, to
prevent any serious check from trying weather, and in giving just water
enough and no more. The fermenting material should sustain the
temperature of the frame, even during frosty nights, and mats will
screen off strong sunshine as well as cold winds. The plants will need
stopping earlier than those grown in houses, and as there are no
hot-pipes to dissipate the moisture, rather less water will be
necessary, both in the soil and from the syringe. But the water
employed should always be of the same temperature as the bed. This is
easily managed by keeping a full can standing with the plants. In large
frames, where there is a good body of manure and the loam is mellow and
turfy, pieces of Mushroom spawn can be inserted all over the bed. The
Mushrooms may appear while the bed is in full bearing; but if they do
not they will come when the plants are cleared out, and pay well to
keep the lights in use another month or so.
Garlic may still be planted, but no time is to be lost.
Herbs of many kinds may be sown or divided, and it will be necessary to
look over the Herb quarter and see how things stand for the supplies
that will be required. A little later, excess of work may prevent due
attention to this department.
Horse-radish to be planted, if not done already.
Kohl Rabi, or Knol Kohl, to be sown in small quantity at the end of the
month, and onwards to August, as required. If cooked while young, the
bulbs are an excellent substitute for Turnips in a hot, dry season.
Leek.—Sow the main crop in very rich, well-prepared soil, and rather
thickly, as the seedlings will have to be planted out. With a little
management this sowing will yield a succession of Leeks.
Lettuce.—Plant out and sow again in quantity. All the kinds may be sown
now, but make sure of enough of the Cos and smaller Cabbage varieties.
In hot, dry soils, where Lettuces usually run to seed early, try some
of the red-leaved kinds, for though less delicate than the green and
white, they will be useful in the event of a scorching summer. Lettuces
require a deep free soil with plenty of manure.
Melon.—Raise a few seeds singly in pots, in readiness for putting under
frames on hot-beds next month. Re-pot the plants, and repeat the
process if the beds are not ready, for Melons must not be starved,
especially in the early stage of growth. Some growers make up the beds
in March, and sow upon them when the heat becomes steady, but the
practice is somewhat precarious. In a cold, late spring the heat may
not last a sufficient time to carry the plants safely into warm
weather. Hence it is more reliable to raise them now in a warm house,
and make the bed at the beginning of April.
Onion.—The plants already raised in boxes to be removed to cold frames.
If necessary, they should be pricked off into other boxes in order to
avoid overcrowding. Keep the frames close at first, but give air with
increasing freedom as the time approaches for transfer to the open
ground. Sow the main crop in drills nine inches apart, and tread or
beat the ground firm. This crop requires a rich soil in a thoroughly
clean and mellow condition, and it makes a capital finish to the
seed-bed to give it a good coat of charred rubbish or smother ash
before sowing the seed.
Parsnip.—Sow main crop in shallow drills eighteen inches apart in good
soil deeply dug. The seed should be lightly covered, and new seed is
indispensable.
Pea.—Sow the finest sorts of the Marrowfat class. Take care to put them
on the best seed-bed that can be made, and allow sufficient room
between the taller sorts for a few rows of Cabbage, Broccoli, or
Potatoes. A crowded quarter of Peas is never satisfactory; the rows
smother each other, and the shaded parts of the haulm produce next to
nothing.
Potato.—A small quantity for early use should be planted at the opening
of the month when the ground is dry and the weather soft. If planted
when frost or cold winds prevail, sets may become somewhat shrivelled
before they are covered, and every care should be taken to prevent such
a check to the initial vigour of the plant. The first-early sorts will
necessarily have the chief attention now, and warm sheltered spots
should be selected for them. Any fairly good soil will produce a
passable crop of Potatoes; but to secure a first-class sample of any
early sort, the ground should be made up with the aid of turfy soil and
charrings of hedge clippings and other light, warm, nourishing
material. Strong manures are not to be desired, but a mellow, kindly,
fertile soil is really necessary, and it will always pay well to take
extra pains in its preparation, because all the light rubbish that
accumulates in yards and outhouses can be turned to account with only a
moderate amount of labour, and the result of careful appropriation of
such rubbish will be thoroughly satisfactory. Burn all the chips and
sticks and other stubborn stuff, and lay the mixture in the trenches
when planting, so that the roots may find it at their first start. As
the Potato disease does not usually appear until late in summer, early
planting is a safe precaution, for it insures early ripening of the
crop. The planting of main crops may commence towards the end of March
and be completed during April, according to the locality and the
condition of the soil.
Radish.—From March to September make successive sowings in the coolest
place that can be found for them.
Scorzonera to be treated much the same as Salsify. See note on the
latter under April.
Sea Kale to be sown in well-prepared beds; or plantations may be made
of the smaller roots of the thickness of a lead pencil, and about four
inches in length. Plant them top end uppermost, and deep enough to be
just covered.
Spinach.—Sow in plenty. The Perpetual or Spinach Beet should not be
forgotten. This is one of the most useful vegetables known, as it
endures heat and cold with impunity, and when common Spinach is running
to seed the Perpetual variety remains green and succulent, and fit to
supply the table all the summer long.
Spinach, New Zealand, is another excellent vegetable in high summer
when the Round-seeded variety is worthless. The plant is rather tender,
and for an early supply the seed must be sown in moderate heat, either
in this month or in April. When large enough, get the seedlings into
small pots, and gradually harden them before planting in the open about
the end of May.
Strawberries.—Spring is undoubtedly preferable to autumn for planting,
and results in a finer crop of fruit in the following year. Just as
growth is commencing is the most favourable time, and this, of course,
depends on the character of the season. Alpine Strawberries may be sown
outdoors this month or in September for fruiting in the succeeding
year.
Tomato.—In ordinary seasons and in the southern counties there is no
difficulty in producing handsome Tomatoes in the open border; but to
ripen the fruit with certainty it is imperative that an early variety
be chosen. With the rise of latitude, however, the crop becomes
increasingly precarious, until in the North it is impossible to finish
Tomatoes without the aid of glass. For plants which are to ripen fruit
in the open, a sowing should be made early in the month, in the manner
advised under January. Plants which are ready should be transferred to
small thumb pots. Put them in so that the first leaves touch the rim of
the pot, and place them in a close frame or warm part of the greenhouse
for a few days until the roots take hold. To save them from becoming
leggy, give each plant ample space, and avoid a forcing temperature. A
shelf in a greenhouse is a good position, and plants in a single row
upon it will grow stout and short-jointed. Thrips and aphis are
extremely partial to Tomatoes. Frequent sprinklings in bright weather
will help to keep down the former, and will at the same time benefit
the plants. Both pests can be destroyed by fumigating with tobacco, and
when the remedy is to be applied water should be withheld on that day.
A moderate amount of smoke in the evening and another application in
the morning will be more destructive to the vermin, and less injurious
to the plants, than one strong dose. The usual syringing must follow.
Plants for the open ground must not be starved while in pots; they will
need potting on until the 4-1/2-inch or 6-inch size is reached, and it
is important that they should never be dry at the roots. Shading will
only be necessary during fierce sunshine; in early morning and late in
the afternoon they will be better without it.
Water Cress.—It is quite a mistake to suppose that a running stream is
requisite for growing this plant, and it is equally a mistake to
suppose that the proper flavour can be secured without the constant use
of water. Sow in a trench, water regularly and copiously, and mild and
tender Water Cress will reward the labour.
Winter Greens of all kinds to be sown in plenty and in considerable
variety; for in the event of a severe winter some kinds will prove
hardier than others.
APRIL
Vegetation is now in full activity, the temperature increases rapidly,
frosts are less frequent, and showers and sunshine alternate in their
mutual endeavours to clothe the earth with verdure and flowers. The
gardener is bound to be vigilant now to assist Nature in her endeavours
to benefit him; he must promote the growth of his crops by all the
means in his power; by plying the hoe to keep down weeds and open the
soil to sunshine and showers; by thinning and regulating his
plantations, that air and light may have free access to the plants left
to attain maturity; by continuing to shelter as may be needed; and by
administering water during dry weather, that vegetation may benefit to
the utmost by the happy accession of increasing sunlight.
Artichoke, Globe.—Suckers to be put in the plantations prepared for
them last month, in rows three to four feet apart each way.
Asparagus.—- Rake off into the alleys the remnant of manure from the
autumn dressing, and as soon as the weather is favourable give the beds
a light application of salt. If new beds are required, there must be no
time lost either to sow seed or get in plants. Our advice to those who
require only one small plantation is to form it by planting strong
roots; but those who intend to grow Asparagus largely may sow down a
bed every year, until they have enough, and then leave well alone; for
a bed properly made will last ten years at the very least, if taken
care of. It has been clearly demonstrated that this much-esteemed
vegetable may be grown to perfection in any garden with little more
expense than attends other crops, provided only that a reasonable
amount of skill is brought to bear upon the undertaking. A deep, rich,
sandy loam suits it. Dig in a good body of manure, and provide a mellow
seed-bed. This being done, care must be taken to sow thinly, and, in
due time, to thin severely; for a crowded plant will never supply fat
sticks. Beds may be made by planting roots instead of sowing seeds, but
the roots must be fresh, or they will not prosper. The advantage of
using plants is that ‘grass’ may be cut earlier than when produced from
seed.
Bean, Broad.—- Sowings may be made until the middle of this month,
after which time they are not likely to pay, especially on hot soils.
It is customary to top Beans when in flower, and the practice has its
advantages. In case the black fly takes possession, topping is a
necessity, for the insect can only subsist on the youngest leaves at
the top of the plant, and the process pretty well clears them away.
Beans, Dwarf French, may be sown outdoors at the end of the month, but
not in quantity, because of the risk of destruction by frost. Much may
be done, however, to expedite the supply of this popular vegetable, and
sowings in boxes placed in gentle heat or under the protection of a
frame will furnish plants which may be gradually hardened off for
transfer to the open in May. In proportion to the means at command,
early sowings outdoors will live or die, as determined by the weather,
although a very little protection is sufficient to carry the young
plants through a bad time in the event of late frosts and storms. But
sowings made at the end of the month will probably prosper.
Bean, Climbing French.—Sowings of the Climbing French Bean may be made
this month as directed for the Dwarf French class: the earliest in
gentle heat for transplanting, and later on in open quarters for
succession crops.
Beet.—At quite the end of the month sow in drills, a foot or fifteen
inches apart, on deep, well-dug ground, without manure. Large Beets are
not desired for the kitchen; but rather small, deeply coloured,
handsome roots are always valued, and these can only be grown in soil
that has been stirred to a good depth, and is quite free of recent
manuring.
Broccoli.—Make another sowing of several sorts, giving preference as
yet to the early varieties. In particularly late districts, and,
perhaps, pretty generally in the North, the late Broccoli should be
sown now, but in the Midlands and the South there is time to spare for
sowing. Be particular to have a good seed-bed, that the plants may grow
well from the first; if the early growth be starved, the plants become
the victims of club and other ruinous maladies.
Brussels Sprouts.—In many households late supplies of Brussels Sprouts
are much valued, and as the crop is capable of enduring severe weather,
a supplemental sowing should always be made during this month. Rich
soil and plenty of room are essential.
Cabbage.—Sow the larger kinds for autumn use, and one or two rows of
the smaller kinds for planting in odd places as early crops are cleared
off. Cows, pigs, and poultry will always dispose of surplus Cabbage
advantageously, so there can be no serious objection to keeping up a
constant succession. Plant out from seed-beds as fast as the plants
become strong enough, for stifling and starving tend to club, mildew,
and blindness. Where Red Cabbage is in demand for use with game in
autumn, seed should be sown now.
Cardoons to be sown on land heavily manured in rows three or four feet
apart, the seeds in clumps of three each, eighteen inches apart. They
are sometimes sown in trenches, but we do not approve of that system,
for they do not require moisture to the extent of Celery, and the
blanching can be effectually accomplished without it. Our advice is to
plant on the level, unless the ground is particularly dry and hot, and
then trenches will be of great service in promoting free growth. To
insure their proper flavour, Cardoons must be large and fat.
Carrot.—Sow the main crops and put them on deeply dug ground without
manure.
Cauliflowers to be planted out at every opportunity, warm, showery
weather being most favourable. If cold weather should follow, a large
proportion of the plants will be destroyed unless protected, and there
is no cheaper protection than empty flower-pots, which may be left on
all day, as well as all night, in extreme cases when a killing east
wind is blowing. Sow now for late summer and autumn use, prick the
plants out early to save buttoning, and they will make a quick return.
Celery.—Sow in a warm corner of the open ground on a bed consisting
largely of rotten manure. It may happen in a good season that this
outdoor sowing will prove the most successful, as it will have no check
from first to last, and will be in just the right state for planting
out when the ground is ready for it after Peas and other early crops.
If Celery suffers a serious check at any time, it is apt to make hollow
stems, and then the quality is poor, no matter to what size the sticks
may attain. Prick out the plants from seed-pans on to a bed of rotten
manure, resting on a hard bottom, in frames or in sheltered nooks, and
look after them with extra care for a week or two. Good Celery cannot
be grown by the haphazard gardener.
Endive.—Sow a small quantity in moderate heat for the first supply, in
drills six inches apart, and when an inch high prick out on to a bed of
rich light soil.
Herbs.—Chervil, Fennel, Hyssop, and other flavouring and medicinal
Herbs, may be sown now better than at any other time, as they will
start at once into full growth, and need little after-care other than
thinning and weeding. Rich soil is not required, but the position must
be dry and sunny.
Leek to be sown again if the former sowing is insufficient or has
failed.
Lettuce to be sown for succession, the quick-growing, tender-hearted
kinds being the best to sow now. Plant out from frames and seed-pans. A
few forward plants may be tied, but as a rule tying is less desirable
than most people suppose. Certainly, after tying, the hearts soon rot
if not quickly eaten; and Lettuces as fine as can be desired may now be
grown without tying, the close-hearting sorts being very much improved
in that respect.
Melon.—Sow again for a second crop in houses, and grow the plants in
pots until they reach a foot high. The early crop will then be ripe,
and the house can be cleared and syringed for a fresh start. From this
sowing fruit should be ready about the beginning of July. The frame
culture advised for Cucumbers will be right for Melons, until the
fruits attain the size of a small orange. Then a thorough soaking must
be given, and under proper management no more water should be
necessary. A dry atmosphere and free ventilation are essential to bring
the fruit to perfection. Stopping must be commenced early by pinching
out the leader, and only one eye should be allowed beyond the fruit
which are to remain. Six will be enough for one plant to carry, and
they should be nearly of a size, for if one obtains a strong lead, it
will be impossible to ripen the others. The remainder should be
gradually removed while young. The worst foe of the Melon is red
spider, and it is difficult to apply a remedy without doing mischief.
Water will destroy it, but this may have disastrous results on the
fruit. The most certain preventive is stout well-grown plants. Weakly
specimens appear to invite attack, and are incapable of struggling
against it. Where plants are occasionally lost through decay at the
collar, small pieces of charcoal laid in a circle round the stem have
proved a simple and effectual antidote.
Onion.—The plants raised under glass in January or February should be
ready for planting out on some favourable day about mid-April. If any
mishap has befallen the sowings made in the open in March there must be
no delay in resowing early in the present month, for Onions should have
good hold of the ground before hot weather comes. Onions for pickling
should be grown thickly on poor ground made firm. The plants are not to
be thinned, but may be allowed to stand as thick as pebbles on the
seashore. The starving system produces abundance of small handsome
bulbs that ripen early, which are the very things wanted for pickling.
The Queen and Paris Silver-skin are adapted for the purpose.