They are grown in houses more or less adapted to their requirements,
and also in frames over hot-beds. At this time of year, however, frames
are somewhat troublesome to manage, and in trying weather they are a
little hazardous, although later in the season there is no difficulty
whatever with them. For the present, therefore, we shall confine our
remarks to house culture. Almost any greenhouse may be made to answer,
but the work can be carried on most successfully and with the greatest
economy in houses which are expressly constructed for Cucumbers. For
winter work a lean-to, facing south, possesses special advantages. But
for general utility, if we had to erect a building on a well-drained
soil, it should be dwarf, sunk three feet in the ground, with brick
walls up to the eaves, and lighted only from the roof. Such a structure
is less influenced by atmospheric changes than a building wholly above
ground. The size, of course, is optional; and quite a small house will
supply an ordinary family with Cucumbers. But a small house is not
economical either in fuel or in labour. A building thirty feet long by
twelve feet wide, six feet high at the sides, and eight and a half feet
high at the ridge, will not only grow Cucumbers and Melons, but will
also be of immense service for many other plants. A division across the
middle by a wall rising four feet, surmounted with a glass screen
fitted to the roof, and finished with a door partially of glass, will
greatly augment its usefulness. There should be an alley down the
centre four or five feet wide, bounded by walls reaching four feet
above the floor. These walls should be nine inches thick for two feet
six inches of their height, but for the upper parts the brickwork need
only be four and a half inches thick. This arrangement will provide a
ledge on the inner side of each wall, and the main walls should also
have ledges corresponding in height, on which to lay slates to carry
the soil. To insure drainage, allow a space of about an inch between
the slates, and place tiles or an inverted turf over every opening to
prevent the soil being washed away. The hot-water pipes will be in
chambers immediately beneath the plants. Openings in the alley walls,
fitted with sliding doors, will admit the heat direct into the house
whenever it may be desirable. Ventilation should be provided for under
the ridge at each end, as well as in the roof. In such a house it is
easy to grow Cucumbers all the year round, except, perhaps, in the dead
of winter, when the short, dark days render the task difficult, no
matter how perfect the appliances at command. The division in the
centre will be found valuable at all times, and especially when one set
of plants is failing; for another set can be brought into bearing
exactly when wanted. But whatever the structure may be, the mode of
culture remains substantially the same in any case. Now, as to soil, a
compost made of mellow turfy loam and leaf-mould in equal parts will be
effective and sweet. In the absence of leaf-mould, use two parts of
loam and one of thoroughly decayed manure with a few pieces of charcoal
added. Sweetness is not absolutely necessary for success, but
nevertheless we like to have it, so that a visit to the Cucumber-house
may be a source of pleasure. This it cannot be if rank manure has been
used. Raise the seed singly in small 60-pots, and sow enough, for
however good the seed may be a proportion will almost certainly fail
from some cause at this critical period. Give the plants one shift into
the 48-size, to keep them going until they are ready for putting into
the beds. Cucumbers grow with great rapidity, and should never know a
check, least of all by starvation. Upon the slates make as many heaps
of soil as are required, and in the centre of each heap put one plant.
As the roots extend, add more soil until the heaps meet and finally
become level with the top of the brickwork. This treatment will supply
food as the roots develop, and help to maintain the plants in bearing
for a long period. Stout wires running parallel with the length of the
house, a foot below the glass, will carry the vines. Temperature should
never fall below 60° at night; but as the season advances, if the
thermometer registers 90° on sunny days, no harm will be done, provided
the roots are not dry, and the air be kept properly moist by plying the
syringe. On dull days one good sprinkling over the foliage will
suffice, and it should be done in the morning. In warm sunny weather,
however, two or three syringings will be beneficial; but the work must
not be done so late as to risk the foliage being wet when night comes
on. There will be occasions when it may be advisable to avoid touching
the leaves with water, if there is no probability of their drying
before nightfall. In such a case the moisture can be kept up by freely
sprinkling the floor and walls. Cucumbers cannot thrive if they are dry
at the roots, but although there should be no stint of water, it must
be given with judgment; and it is of the utmost importance that the
drainage should be effectual, for stagnant water is even more injurious
than a dry soil. A few sticks placed in various parts of the bed,
reaching down to the slates, will serve as indicators. Draw and inspect
them occasionally, and a pretty correct idea of the condition of the
soil will be obtained. The water should be of the same temperature as
the house; if applied cold the plants will sustain a serious check. In
the event of the bed falling somewhat below the proper temperature, the
water may with advantage be a few degrees higher than usual.
Horse-radish should be planted early, to insure fine roots for next
Christmas beef.
Leek.—Those who wish to produce stems of superb size and beautiful
texture must sow in heat during this month or early in February, for a
longer period of growth is requisite than for ordinary crops. When
sufficient root growth has been made, transplant into larger pots, and
in due course transfer these to a frame where the plants may be
gradually hardened off for putting out into specially prepared trenches
in April.
Lettuces will soon be in demand, and the early hearts will be
particularly precious. Sow a few sorts in pans, in frames, or on gentle
hot-beds, to be ready for planting out by-and-by.
Melon.—Although the Melon is a fruit, its culture naturally forms part
of the routine of a vegetable garden. Up to a certain point it may be
grown in the same house with Cucumbers; but after that point is
reached, the two plants need widely different treatment. Cucumbers are
cut when young, and must be grown in a warm and humid atmosphere from
beginning to end. Melons need warmth, and at the commencement moisture
also; but the fruit has to be ripened, and after it is set dry
treatment becomes essential for the production of a rich flavour with
plenty of aroma. In large gardens, three crops of Melons are usually
grown in the same house in one season. A light soil is advisable at the
beginning of the year, but later in the season a heavier compost may be
employed. For the first sowing select an early variety, and at the
beginning of this month put the seed in separate pots. Re-pot the
plants once, and they will be ready for the beds by the first week of
February. Melons from this sowing should be fit for table in May, which
is quite as early as they can be produced with any sugar in them. Until
the fruits begin to swell the treatment advised for Cucumbers will suit
Melons also. Afterwards the watering will need careful management. It
would be an advantage if the fruit could be finished off without a drop
of water from the time they are about two inches in diameter, but the
hot pipes render it almost impossible. Still, water must not be given
more frequently than is actually necessary to keep the plants going,
and when it is applied let there be a thorough soaking. At the same
time ventilation will demand constant attention, and, provided the
temperature can be maintained, it is scarcely possible to give air too
freely. In the early stage of growth, and in mild weather, if the
thermometer registers 65° at 9 P.M., the cultivator may sleep
peacefully so far as Melons are concerned. As the season advances, the
temperature may be increased to 70° by night, and 75° to 90° by day.
With reference to stopping, it may be sufficient to say that it is a
waste of energy to allow the plant to make a large quantity of vine,
which has afterwards to be cut away. By judiciously pinching out the
shoots, the plant can be equally spread over the allotted space. The
flowers must be fertilised, and in this respect the treatment differs
from that advised for Cucumbers. The practice has the advantage of
allowing the fruits to be evenly distributed over the vine, and from
four to six, according to the size of the variety, will be enough for
each plant to ripen.
Mustard.—Those who care for salads need a supply of Mustard almost all
through the year, and to secure a succession it will be necessary to
sow at regular intervals. It is a good plan to keep a few boxes in use
for the purpose in a plant-house or pit, sowing one or two at a time as
required, and taking care not to sow wastefully. The seed may be sown
out of doors all the summer, on a shady border, but nothing surpasses
boxes or large pans under glass. Mustard and Cress should never be sown
in the same row or in the same pan, but separately, because they do not
grow at the same pace, and the former may be fit for use a week or so
before the latter. Do not be content to use Rape, or any other
substitute, but sow the genuine article.
Onion.—The modern practice of sowing Onion seed in boxes under glass is
to be commended for several reasons. It insures a long season of growth
and results in handsome bulbs far above the average in size.
Transplanting affords the opportunity of selecting the strongest
seedlings and of placing them at exact intervals in the bed. As a
crowning advantage this system, to a large extent, prevents attack from
the Onion Fly. Sow in boxes filled with rich soil and see that the
plants have sufficient water, although very little is necessary until
after transfer to other boxes.
Peas of the round-seeded class may be sown in open quarters, and the
driest and warmest places must be selected. It is next to impossible to
grow them too well; for if the haulm runs up higher than usual, the
produce will be the finer. Remember, too, that if deep trenches are dug
and a lot of manure is put in for Peas, the ground is so far prepared
for Broccoli, Celery, and late Cauliflowers to follow; for the
early-sown Peas will be off the ground in time for another paying crop.
As everybody wants an early dish of Peas, sow one of the forward
marrowfat varieties in pots, or on strips of turf laid grass-side
downwards in boxes having movable bottoms that can be withdrawn by a
dexterous hand when the transfer is made from frames to the open
ground. Troughs for Peas can be made in very little time out of waste
wood that may be found in the yard; or a few lengths of old zinc
spouting blocked up at the ends will answer admirably. In the absence
of such aids, flower-pots may be used. The seed should have the shelter
of a frame or pit, but should have the least possible stimulus from
artificial heat, except in cases where there is all the skill at
command to promote very early production.
Potatoes are prized when they come in early, and may be forwarded on
beds of leaves and exhausted hot-beds by covering with light rich soil,
and employing old frames for protection, with litter handy in case of
frost. For this early work select the earliest Kidneys and Rounds; the
main-cropping varieties are not quick enough.
Radishes are more or less in demand for the greater part of the year.
The early crops are, however, especially valued, and there need not be
the least difficulty in producing a supply. A half-spent hot-bed, or,
indeed, any position that affords shelter and warmth, will answer
admirably for raising this crop until it may be trusted to a suitable
position in the open.
Sea Kale may be covered with pots or a good depth of litter, or a
combination of pots and litter. This should be done early, as at the
first move of vegetation this delicious vegetable will come into use,
and will generally be of finer quality than if forced. It happens,
however, to be the easiest of all things to force, and so, wherever it
is cared for, a plentiful supply may be maintained from Christmas (or
earlier) until May. As the leaf-stems must be thoroughly blanched,
covering is needful in all cases.
Spinach may be sown in open quarters. If the frost destroys the plant,
sow again. Some risk must be encountered for an early dish of this
highly-prized vegetable. Keep the autumn-sown Spinach clear of weeds,
and in gathering (if it happens to be fit to supply a gathering), pick
off the leaves separately with a little care.
Strawberries.—Seed of the Alpine varieties sown in pans this month, for
transfer later to the open ground, usually produce fine fruits in
September.
Tomato.—Of the immense value of the Tomato as an article of diet we
need say nothing, but we may confidently affirm that its merits for
decorative purposes have not as yet been fully recognised. Long racemes
of brilliant glossy fruit are sometimes employed with striking effect
in épergnes, and there is a natural fitness in using them for
decorating the dinner table. All the Tomatoes can be grown and ripened
under glass in almost any fashion which may suit the cultivator’s
convenience. Pits, frames, vineries, and Peach-houses will bring the
fruit to perfection, either in pots or planted out. Magnificent crops
are also grown in the manner usual with Cucumbers, but in a lower
temperature; and those who have an early Cucumber house at liberty
during the summer may turn it to good account for Tomatoes. The soil
should be prepared and laid up in the autumn. It must not be too rich,
or there will be much foliage and little fruit, and the flowering will
also be late. A compost of leaf-mould and loam with an addition of sand
suits Tomatoes admirably; but raw manure should be regarded as poison.
Sow thinly in well-drained pots firmly filled with soil, and place in a
temperature of 60° or 65°. When large enough to handle, transfer the
seedlings to small pots, and, if necessary, shade them for a few days.
Keep them near the glass until the roots are established, and allow
them to suffer no check from first to last.
FEBRUARY
The work of this month is to be carried on as weather permits, but with
greater activity and more confidence, for the sun is fast gaining
power. Earnest digging, liberal manuring, and scrupulous cleansing are
the tasks that stand forward as of pre-eminent importance. Many weeds,
groundsel especially, will now be coming into flower, and if allowed to
seed will make enormous work later on. It is well, however, to
remember—what few people do remember, because the fact has not been
pressed upon their attention—that weeds of all kinds, so long as they
are not in flower, are really useful as manure when dug into the soil.
Therefore a weedy patch is not of necessity going to ruin; but if the
weeds are not stopped in time, they spread by their seeds and mar the
order of the garden. Dig them in, and their decay will nourish the next
crop. If early sowing is practised, and the earliest possible produce
of everything is aimed at, there must be always at hand the means of
protection, such as litter, spruce branches, mats, or other material,
as circumstances require. The vigilant gardener is not surprised by the
weather, but is always armed for an emergency. Read the notes for
January before proceeding further; and in respect of what remains
undone, spare the necessity of reminders here.
Frame Ground should be kept scrupulously clean and orderly. Many things
will require watering now, but water must not be carelessly given,
because damp is hurtful during frosty weather. Take care that the
plants are not crowding and starving, or they will come to no good.
Artichoke, Globe.—Plants from a sowing made now in a frame, and
transferred to the open at the end of April, will generally produce
heads in the following August, September, and October.
Artichokes, Jerusalem, may be planted this month where it has been
possible to prepare the ground. Use whole sets if convenient, or plant
cut sets with about three eyes in each.
Beans, Broad, may be sown both for early and main crops now, and with
but little risk of damage by spring frosts. The driest and warmest
situation should be selected for the early sorts, and the strongest
land for the late ones. If sowings were made in frames last month, take
care to harden the plants cautiously preparatory to planting out; if
caught by a sharp frost, every one will perish.
Beans, French.—To precede the outdoor crops make a sowing of Dwarf
French Beans in frames, and of the Climbing French varieties in
orchard-houses or other available spaces under glass.
Beet.—Sowings of the Globe variety may be made this month and in March,
on a gentle hot-bed under frames, to provide roots in advance of the
outdoor supplies.
Broccoli.—Sow on a warm sheltered border, and also in a frame. With
such an important crop at this time of year, there should be at least
two strings to the bow.
Brussels Sprouts.—For an early gathering of large buttons a sowing
should be made now on the warm border. This vegetable requires a long
period of growth to attain perfection, and those who sow late rarely
obtain such fine buttons as the plant is capable of producing.
Cabbage may be sown in pans or boxes placed in a frame, to be planted
out in due time for summer use, and from a quick-growing variety tender
hearts may be cut almost as early as from autumn-sown plants. Where
plantations stand rather thick, draw as fast as possible from amongst
them every alternate plant, to allow the remainder ample space for
hearting. It is well to remember that the small loose hearts of
immature Cabbages make a more delicate dish than the most complete
white hearts; but when grown for market, or to meet a large demand,
there must be bulk and substance. Cabbages are in constant request to
mend, and to make stolen crops, or take the place of anything that
fails past recovery.
Capsicum and Chili should be sown now or in March on a hot-bed, and be
potted on until the plants are fit to be placed in the greenhouse or
conservatory.
Cauliflower.—Another sowing should be made under glass to supply a
succession of plants.
Corn Salad thrives well in any soil not particularly heavy, the best
being a sandy fertile loam. Sow in drills six inches apart; keep the
hoe well at work, and when ready thin the plants out to six inches
apart. They should be eaten young.
Couve Tronchuda produces two distinct dishes. The top forms a Cabbage
of the most delicate flavour and colour, and furnishes the best
possible dish of greens in autumn; and the midribs of the largest
leaves may be cooked in the manner of Sea Kale, and will be found
excellent. This delicious vegetable may be secured for use in summer
and autumn and far on into the winter by successive sowings in
February, March, and April; the first sowings to be assisted with heat.
The plants should be put out as early as possible on rich soil at from
two to three feet each way; they must have plenty of water in a dry
summer. The season of Portugal Cabbage may be prolonged by taking up
what plants are left before severe frost occurs, and heeling them into
a bank of dry earth in a shed or outhouse.
Egg Plant.—The fruits of Egg Plants play a more important part in the
cookery of the French and Italians than with us, and they make a
delicious dish when properly cooked. Seed may be raised in heat, but
when summer comes the plants thrive in rich soil at the foot of a wall
facing south. The white and purple varieties are grown for ornament as
well as for cooking. Sow now or in March in heat, and in June the
plants should be ready for transferring to rich soil in a sheltered
spot, allowing each one a space of two feet.
Garlic to be planted in rows, nine inches apart each way, and two
inches deep in rich mellow soil.
Lettuce.—Sow again on a warm border and in frames. Plant out in mild
weather any that are fit from frames and hot-beds, first making sure
that they are well hardened.
Mustard.—It is easy work with a frame to have Mustard at any time; and
many small sowings are better than large ones, which only result in
waste to-day and want to-morrow.
Onion.—There is still time for sowing seed in boxes preparatory to
planting out in April.
Parsley to be sown in the latter part of the month.
Parsnip should be sown as early as possible, on the deepest and best
ground as regards texture; but it need not be on the richest, for if
the roots can push down they will get what they want from the subsoil,
and therefore it is of great importance to put this crop on ground that
was dug twice in the autumn.
Pea.—Sow early sorts in quantity now, in accordance with probable
requirements; but there will be a loss rather than a gain of time if
they are sown on pasty ground or during bad weather. There are now many
excellent sorts of moderate height, and these give the least trouble in
their management; but a few of the taller varieties still remain in
favour, because of their fine quality. However, there is time yet for
sowing mid-season and late Peas; but the sooner some of the
first-earlies are in, the better. It is customary to sow many rows in a
plot rather close together, but it is better practice to put them so
far apart as to admit of two or three rows of early Potatoes between
every two rows of Peas. This insures abundance of light and air to the
Peas, and the latter are of great value to protect the Potatoes from
May frosts that often kill down the rising shaws. A warm, dry, fertile
soil is needed for first-early Peas. Those already up and in a bad
plight should be dug in and the rows sown again. It is worthy of note
that if Peas are thoroughly pinched and starved by hard weather, they
rarely prove a success; therefore, if they go wrong, sacrifice them
without hesitation and begin again. Where early rows are doing well put
sticks to them at once, as the sticks afford considerable protection,
and the effect may be augmented by strewing on the windward side small
hedge clippings and other light dry stuff.
Radishes, to be mild, tender, and handsome, must be grown rapidly. If
checked, they become hot, tough, and worthless. Much may be done to
forward a crop by means of dry litter and mats to protect the plants
from frost, removing the protection in favourable weather to give the
crop the fullest possible benefit of air and sunshine. Old worn-out
frames that will scarcely hold together will pay their first cost over
again, with the aid of a little skill, in growing Radishes.
Rhubarb should be taken up and divided, and planted again in rich moist
soil, every separate piece to have only one good eye. Do not gather
this season from the new plantation, but always have a piece one year
old to supply the kitchen. This method will insure sticks to be proud
of, not only for size, but for colour and flavour.
Savoys are valued by some when small, and by others they are prized for
size as much as for their excellent flavour when well frosted. Large
Savoys must have a long season of growth; therefore sow as soon as
possible, either in a frame, or on a rich, mellow seedbed, and be ready
to prick them out before they become crowded.
Sea Kale.—The plantations reserved for latest supplies should not be
covered until they begin to push naturally, and then the coverings must
be put on to blanch the growth effectually. Open-ground Sea Kale may be
uncovered as soon as cut, but a little litter should be left to give
protection and help the young shoots to rise, because after blanching
the cutting is a severe tax on the plant, and it has to begin life
afresh and prepare for the work of the next season.
Shallot.—When well grown the clumps are bigger than a man’s fist, and
each separate bulb thicker than a walnut. To grow them well they must
have time; so plant early, on rich ground, in rows one foot apart and
the bulbs about nine inches asunder. Press them into the earth deep
enough to hold them firmly, but they are not to be quite buried.
Spinach.—Sow the Round-seeded plentifully; if overdone the extra crop
can be dug in as manure, and in that way will pay.
Tomato.—In many gardens the first sowing is made this month, and when
treated fairly, the plants come into bearing in about four months. Use
good porous soil for the seed-pans. Sow very thinly in a temperature of
60° or 65°, and get the plants into thumb pots while they are quite
small.
Turnip may be sown on warm borders, but it is too early for large
breadths in open quarters.
MARCH
This is the great season for garden work, and the gardener must be up
with the lark and go to bed with the robin, which is the latest of
birds to bid farewell to a sunny day. The first care should be to make
good all arrears, especially in the preparation of seed-beds, and the
cleaning of plots that are in any way disorderly. Where early-sown
crops have evidently failed, sow again without complaining; seed costs
but little, and a good plant is the earnest of a good crop; a bad plant
will probably never pay the rent of the ground it occupies. Keen east
winds may cause immense damage, but a little protection provided in
time will do wonders to ward off their effects, and the sunny days that
are now so welcome, and that we are pretty sure to have, will afford
opportunity for giving air to plants in frames, for clearing away
litter, and for the regular routine work of the season.
Seed of almost every vegetable grown in the garden may be sown in the
month of March. Make successional sowings of whatever it may be
advisable to put under cover or on heat, and then proceed with
open-ground sowings as weather and circumstances permit. The weather is
the master of outdoor work, and it is sheer waste of time to fight
against it. It is better to wait to the end of the month, or even far
into the next, before sowing a seed than to sow on pasty ground. But it
matters not how dry the ground may be, and if the wind blows keenly,
that should only be an inducement to brisk action; for seeds well sown
have everything in their favour if they are not too early for the
district. Very important indeed it is now to secure a Hot-bed.—To make
one is easy enough, but it is of no use to half make it; for half-acres
in this department do not bear good corn. In the first place, secure a
great bulk of manure, and if it is long and green, turn it two or three
times, taking care that it is always moderately moist, but never
actually wet. If the stuff is too dry, sprinkle with water at every
turn, and let it steam away to take the rankest fire out of it. Then
make it up where required in a square heap, allowing it to settle in
its own way without treading or beating. Put on a foot-depth of light,
rich soil after the frames are in their places, and wait a few days to
sow the seed in case of a great heat rising. When the temperature is
steady and comfortable, sow seeds in pots and pans, as needful, the
quantity required of each separate crop, and stand them on bricks above
the bed, and the heat will then be none too much for them. In the
course of a few days finish the work by putting in a body of earth. Do
not attempt to hurry the growth of anything overmuch, for undue haste
will produce a weak plant; rather give air and light in plenty, but
with care to prevent injurious check, and the plants will be short and
healthy from the first.
Artichokes, Globe, to be cleared of protecting material as soon as
weather permits, and fresh plantations made ready for suckers to be put
in next month. A new plantation may also be formed by sowing seeds; in
fact, a sowing ought to be made every year. Where early produce is
required, the plants should be protected during winter to supply
suckers in the spring; but, if late supplies suffice, the sowing of a
few rows every year will reduce the labour, and render the production
of Globe Artichokes a very simple affair.
Artichokes, Jerusalem, may be planted now advantageously. Strong, deep
soil produces the best crop, and large roots are always preferred by
the cook, because of the inevitable waste in preparing this vegetable.
The Jerusalem Artichoke is certainly not properly appreciated, and one
reason is that it is often carelessly grown in any out-of-the-way
starving corner, whereas it needs a sunny, open spot, and a strong,
deep soil, and plenty of room. To hide an ugly fence during summer no
more useful plant is grown.
Asparagus.—Little attention is required as yet, except to remove every
weed as soon as it can be seen. If the beds are dry, and there are no
indications of coming rain, one good soaking of water or weak sewage
will be very beneficial. Mark out and make beds for sowing seed next
month.
Bean, Broad.—Plant out those raised in frames, and earth up those from
early sowings that are forward enough. Sow for main crops and late
supplies. In late districts a few of the earliest sorts may be sown to
come in before the Windsor section.
Beet.—Sow a little seed for an early supply, in well-dug mellow soil.
The crop will need protection in the event of frost.