Company; and there is also a northern and southern Superintendant, who
is directed to visit all the places of note within his district, at
least once in the year. The northern department comprises _Churchill_,
_York_, and _Severn_ factories, on the coast; and the southern embraces
_Albany_, _Moose_, _East Main_, and _Richmond_. To determine the
interior limits of each, an imaginary line of demarcation is drawn east
and west from _Hudson’s Bay_ to the _Stony Mountains_.
With respect to the inhabitants of this vast desert I shall say but
little, as Sir _Alexander M^cKenzie_ has given a very full description
of the various tribes by which it is peopled[27]. The most populous of
all, perhaps, are the _Cree Indians_: they appear to me to be the same
race described by the before-mentioned author, under the name of
_Knisteneaux_. They occupy the country from _Churchill_ nearly as far
south as _Moose_, and are found scattered almost as far to the west as
the _Stony Mountains_; but their numbers have been much diminished of
late, owing to the small-pox. When this dreadful malady first reached
this country, as the _Indians_ were not aware of any remedy by which
they could counteract its violence, they were accustomed to leave the
person afflicted in the midst of a wood, with a sufficient stock of food
for two or three days’ subsistence; and when this scanty provision was
expended, the unhappy victim must have necessarily perished with hunger.
The banks of the rivers, for a time, exhibited a most loathsome
spectacle, of bodies which had thus fallen a sacrifice to this disorder.
Besides the _Cree_ or _Knisteneaux Indians_, there are innumerable
tribes spread over the interior of this vast country; the principal of
which are, the _Copper_, _Dog-ribbed_, and _Hare-foot Indians_, towards
the north; the _Swees_, _Bongees_, _Slave_, and _Stone Indians_, towards
the west; likewise a variety of tribes inhabiting the southern country
around _Moose_, such as the _Mistassins_, and others. The different
tribes have frequently wars with each other; and they appear to agree
unanimously in one respect only, that is to say, in universal and
eternal hatred of the _Esquimaux_. However, it fortunately happens, from
the contrariety of their modes of life, that their parties seldom come
into contact with each other, and consequently the battles between them
are very rare.
It remains now to speak of one of the most enterprising
speculations, perhaps, ever undertaken by a single person; namely, the
attempt lately made by Lord _Selkirk_ to establish a colony upon the
banks of the _Red River_, in a situation nearly equidistant from _York
Factory_ and _Lake Superior_, and in the latitude of 50° N.[28]
His Lordship holds this land by a grant of 12,000 square acres from
the _Hudson’s-Bay Company_. The first settlers left _Sligo_ in the year
1811; and arriving in _Hudson’s Bay_, they past the winter of that year
at _York Factory_. In the spring of 1812, they proceeded to their
destination, under the command of a Captain _M^cDonald_, formerly
belonging to a veteran corps in _Canada_: but this gentleman seems
deficient in the essential art of conciliating those who are placed
under his government: however, the situation of the colony is
undoubtedly good, and the soil so fertile as to produce every thing
almost spontaneously. The winters, indeed, are more severe than in
places upon the same parallel of latitude in Europe, but much milder
than at _Moose_, or any of the factories in _Hudson’s Bay_; and yet even
at _Moose_ they produce barley, if it be a fine year; and _Orkney_ oats
every year, by sowing them a short distance from the sea-beach. Still,
it is extremely doubtful if ever his Lordship’s descendants will derive
much benefit from their father’s mighty speculations; unless, indeed, he
could prevail upon his tenants to grant him a sort of tithe from their
produce, in lieu of rent. With this corn he could supply the
_Hudson’s-Bay_ settlements, which would save the Company a considerable
expense, and they might repay his Lordship in the current coin of the
realm.
The _Prince of Wales_ took out many women and settlers for the
colony, as also a Mr. _White_, to act as surgeon. Lord _Selkirk_ has
agreed with this gentleman, to give him a yearly stipend of 100_l._
together with a grant of five hundred acres of land, and a labourer four
days in the week for its cultivation.
It is difficult to imagine what were his Lordship’s intentions with
respect to the colony at _Red River_. Allowing the luxuriance of the
soil to answer his fullest expectations, by what possible means could
the produce be conveyed to an adequate market, so as to repay the
expenses of its carriage? The communication between the colony and _York
Factory_ is kept up by boats, through the great _Lake Winnepeg_; a
little to the southward of which runs the _Asnaboyne_ or _Red River_:
yet the channels of the different rivers are so full of falls, rapids,
portages and carrying-places, that the labour of conveying the boats is
immense, and consequently quite unfit for the purposes of commerce,
except it be in furs, and in such light merchandize.
It was for some time believed that a large opening to the northward
of _Richmond_, and near to _Cape Smith_, was an inlet to some large
inland sea; but, in the year 1786, Mr. _Davison_, an officer in one of
the Company’s ships, was sent in a schooner to explore the same. The
following extract contains the description of his progress, as expressed
by himself. “On entering the bight, and perceiving no land a-head, we
sat down to a bottle of wine, and drank success to the new discovery:
however, we were soon chagrined by the appearance of some low islands
stretching across the opening; and shortly afterwards, coming to an
anchor under one of them, we climbed to the top of it, and, to our great
mortification, we perceived that the supposed sea was nothing more than
a deep gulf, terminated at the bottom by thick clusters of islands,
among which the sea ran winding in romantic mazes. Here we found the
_Esquimaux_, who bartered away their dresses, &c. with great avidity,
for any sort of metal.”—Notwithstanding this clear statement, there are
experienced men who still suppose that an inland sea does exist; and for
these reasons:—1st. There is a continual current setting to the east
from _Cape Henrietta Maria_, towards the supposed opening; 2dly, The bay
ship, in her voyage to _Moose_, has frequently observed a large glut of
loose ice off _Cape Henrietta Maria_, which, before her return, has
entirely disappeared; and whither could it have drifted with a strong
easterly current, unless some opening had admitted its escape from the
bay?—These are the reasons for and against the existence of the supposed
sea; but it is to be regretted, that the Company do not make a decisive
attempt to ascertain the fact.
It will now be necessary to return to the proceedings of the ship.
August _24th_.—Course run S. W. by W. ¼W. 34 miles. In the morning,
past to the northward of _Mansfield_, a very long, low, level island,
lying about seventeen leagues to the westward of _Cape Diggs_. Its
extent from north to south is said to be full sixty miles. As it abounds
with marshes and ponds of fresh water, it may be considered as the grand
nursery of those innumerable flocks of wild geese and ducks which
afterwards line the shores of _Hudson’s Bay_: however, it is but seldom
visited; and the ships generally avoid going too near to it, in
consequence of some shoals that lay around the shore. Towards evening,
we steered away W. S. W. by compass.
August _25th_.—Course run S. S. W. ¾ W. 101 miles. As there is
generally a glut of ice floating about the centre of _Hudson’s Bay_, a
ship, on leaving _Mansfield Island_, and having a northerly wind, ought
to steer for _Cape Churchill_, until they reach within sixty leagues of
the land, when they may alter the course, and steer for _York_ direct.
It is necessary to make this angle, to avoid the body of ice in
question. Another thing worthy of remark is, that if a ship steer in for
_Cape Churchill_ until she have forty fathoms water, she may be certain
of being in latitude of the Cape: and when she reaches within five or
six leagues of the land, she will have eighteen fathoms water. But a
navigator must be cautious to make allowance for the southerly current,
which sets continually along the western coast of _Hudson’s Bay_.
August _26th_.—Course run S. W. ¼ S. 56 miles. The wind this day to
the S. S. W. Our latitude at noon was 60°. 11′. N. ship still standing
to the westward. It has been already noticed, that the officers of the
_Hudson’s-Bay_ ships have a motive in concealing from the public the
knowledge which they actually possess relative to the navigation of the
Northern Seas; and I pledged myself to explain that motive at a proper
opportunity. I cannot undertake this unpleasant task at a more apposite
time than the present, when it may serve to enliven the dulness of a few
nautical remarks, which I think it necessary to insert into this part of
my Journal.
In the first place, it is proper to state, that this illiberal
concealment has its origin in the Company themselves, who (as I am told
by their own officers) have issued the strictest and most peremptory
commands to the people in their employment, “that they take especial
care to conceal all papers, and every other document, which may tend to
throw light upon the Company’s fur-trade.”—It is probable that the
Company had no other motive in issuing these directions, than to keep
themselves and their gains shrowded in a profound silence; as it appears
that, above all other things, they wish their trading concerns not to
become a topic of general conversation in the mother-country. Actuated
by such principles, the officers of the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships conceive it
to be their duty to conceal likewise all those remarks which their
experience has taught them to make upon the navigation of the _Northern
Seas_: consequently, nothing can be more incorrect than the Chart
supplied by the _Admiralty_ for the guidance of a man-of-war in
_Hudson’s Straits_: it absolutely bears no resemblance to the channel of
which it is intended to be an exact delineation. During the time we
continued in _Hudson’s Straits_, the _Rosamond_ was entirely piloted by
a chart belonging to the chief mate of the _Prince of Wales_, and one of
his own making; yet he was so jealous of his performance, that he was
highly offended at our Master’s having endeavoured to take a copy of it;
and from thenceforward kept his charts carefully locked up. When I
questioned him, with some freedom, on this mysterious conduct, the
selfish motive stood at once confessed: he feared lest, from others
attaining the same knowledge as himself, they might be induced to enter
into the service of the Company, and thereby possibly supplant him in
his situation. And such I found to be the motives which induced the
majority of these experienced seamen to keep their truly valuable
information concealed within their own bosoms. After the foregoing
statement, it will be unnecessary to explain my reasons for inserting
the very few nautical observations which I was enabled to collect.
August _27th_.—Course run, W. S. W. ¼ W. 87 miles.
We continued running all this day across the bay, with a fine
leading wind. Our latitude at noon was 59°. 40′. N.
August _28th_.—Course run W. S. W. 74 miles.
At noon this day we sounded, and found that we were in eighty
fathoms water. About sun-set we observed a large body of ice to
windward; our latitude at this time 58°. 56′. N.; and longitude, by
chronometer, 89°. 50′. W. It is about this spot that the _Hudson’s-Bay_
ships generally calculate on seeing ice, allowing they meet with it at
all.
August _29th_.—Course run S. by W. ¼ W. 68 miles.
At 1 A.M. we sounded in sixty-seven fathoms water. At four in the
morning, the wind suddenly increased to a violent gale, which died away
again at sunset. Our latitude at noon was 58°. 6′. N.; longitude, 90° W.
Towards night-fall we sounded in forty-two fathoms, with a muddy bottom;
and at the same time we caught an owl and a hawk, which we considered as
sure signs of the vicinity of land.
August _30th_.—As we were now running in to make the land, I shall
insert a Table of the Soundings, taken from the depth of water, which we
ascertained last night at sun-set.
Table _of_ Soundings _ascertained on the 30th of_ August, _while
standing in for the Land to the Southward of_ York Factory.
Hours. Ship’s Distance run Depth of Bottom.
Course, by since last Water.
Compass. Soundings.
4 A.M. S. S. W. 20 Miles 25 Fathoms Mud
5^h 0^m Ditto 4 Ditto 21 Ditto Ditto
5.30 Ditto 5 Ditto 15 Ditto Ditto
6.0 Ditto 5 Ditto 14 Ditto Ditto
6.30 Ditto 5 Ditto 19 Ditto Ditto & sand
7.0 Ditto 6 Ditto 12 Ditto Sand & pebbles
_Note._—At seven o’clock in the morning we saw the trees a-head, the
land itself being too low to be seen. The land probably about seven
leagues distant.
7.30 S. by W. 5 Ditto 9½ Ditto Ditto
7.50 Ditto 2 Ditto 7 Ditto Ditto
As we continued beating to windward, in various soundings, all the
forenoon, I shall not mark them down, but proceed to 1 P.M. when _Cape
Tottenham_ bore S. by E. five leagues distant.
Table _of_ Soundings _ascertained on the 30th of_ August, _while
standing in for the Land to the Southward of_ York Factory;—continued
from the preceding page.
Hours. Ship’s Distance run Depth of Bottom.
Course, by since last Water.
Compass. Soundings.
1 P.M. We had —— 13 Fathoms Rocky and
gravelly, which
denotes the
Cape bearing S.
by E.
2^h. 0^m. W. N. W. 4½ Miles 14 Ditto Rocky.
3.— Ditto 6 Ditto 23 Ditto Ditto
5.— S. S. E. 5 Ditto 26 Ditto Brown sand.
6.— Ditto 5 Ditto 17 Ditto Mud, shells,
and stones.
7.30 Southward 7½ Ditto 8 Ditto Mud.
& Westward
9.— Ditto 7 Ditto 11 Ditto Ditto
9.30 Ditto 2 Ditto 11 Ditto Sand.
10.— Ditto 2 Ditto 11½ Ditto Ditto
10.30 Ditto 2 Ditto 12 Ditto Fine sand.
11.— Ditto 2 Ditto 12 Ditto Very fine sand.
11.30 Ditto 2 Ditto 14 Ditto Gravelly sand,
and black
specks.
12.— Ditto 2 Ditto 14½ Ditto Very fine sand.
Table _of_ Soundings _ascertained on the 31st of_ August, while
standing in for the Land to the Southward of York Factory.
Hours. Ship’s Distance run Depth of Bottom.
Course, by since last Water.
Compass. Soundings.
12^h. Southward 2 Miles 14 Fathoms Grey sand with
30^m. A.M. & Westward black specks.
1.— Ditto 3 Ditto 15 Ditto Ditto
1.30 S. W. ½ W. 3 Ditto 15½ Ditto Oozy
2.— S. W. 3 Ditto 15½ Ditto Mud
2.30 Ditto 2 Ditto 16½ Ditto Ditto
3.— Ditto 2 Ditto 14½ Ditto Oozy
3.30 Ditto 2 Ditto 12 Ditto Brown sand,
black specks, &
broken shells.
4.— Ditto 2 Ditto 7½ Ditto Sand
4.30 Standing in for _York 7½ Ditto Ditto
Flats_
5.— Ditto 3 Ditto 7¾ Ditto Hard ground.
6.— Ditto 6 Ditto 7 Ditto Ditto
7.— Ditto 6 Ditto 8½ Ditto Ditto
8.— Ditto 7 Ditto 8½ Ditto Soft ground.
At eight in the morning, it will be observed, we were in 8½ fathoms
water, on _York Flats_; and we therefore came to an anchor, with the
beacon, at the mouth of _York River_, bearing S. W. by compass; the land
being distant about ten miles, although it could barely be discerned in
a blue line above the horizon. Thus, it may be observed, we had been
sixty-three days on our voyage; and that it may be compared with other
voyages to _Hudson’s Bay_, I have annexed to this Journal a Schedule[29]
of those performed by the Company’s ships since the year 1788; although
I have not been able to obtain the dates of their departures from the
_Orkneys_.
By the Sounding Table which I have inserted, it is evident that the
depth of water abreast of _York River_, and off _Cape Tottenham_, to the
southward, is uncommonly regular; and it may therefore be fairly
concluded, that, although the western coast of the Bay be very low land,
yet there is no great danger in making it.
It is not expected that ships during their return to _Europe_ will
ever meet with loose ice[30]: therefore, as soon as our ship anchored on
_York Flats_, we _undid_ all the preparations which had been made for
manœuvring whilst amongst the ice; such as, re-stowing our anchors, and
putting below ice-ropes, ice-anchors, ice-axes, &c.; and we rejoiced in
being rid of them.
The factory was about twenty miles distant from the anchorage of the
ship, but not visible. At 10 A.M. I went, therefore, from the ship, to
report our arrival to the Governor. We were met at some distance from
the ship by a large boat from the factory. It appeared that they had
noticed the arrival of the ship; and mistaking her for the _Prince of
Wales_, the boat was immediately despatched for letters, parcels, news,
&c. &c. Finding their mistake[31], the boat returned with us to the
factory, which we reached about nine at night. On landing, we were
hailed by a sentinel; and a guard of honour was drawn out to receive us,
with a pair of _Highland_ bagpipes in front. The guard was composed of
the traders, boatmen, and others, belonging to the factory: and through
the gloom of the night I discerned the Governor and his officers,
standing in a group to receive us. After the necessary business of
introduction was over, we walked up to a large wooden building,
surrounded by a double row of wooden palisades; and here we were regaled
with venison steaks and buffalo tongue.
Sept. _1st_.—At 2 A.M. the tide answering for our return, we quitted
the factory, and reached the vessel again about 8 A.M.
Whilst we were at _York Fort_, we received information that the
factory at _Churchill_ had been burnt to the ground, in the month of
_November_, 1813. The miseries which the people of that place suffered
during the remainder of the winter were very great. As there were
seventy-three chests of gunpowder in the warehouse at the time the
conflagration took place, their whole attention was occupied in removing
away the powder to prevent an explosion; and by the most strenuous
exertions they succeeded in this undertaking; but the time lost
prevented their being able to save a mouthful of provisions, or a single
utensil, from the flames. An old out-house that had escaped destruction,
and a few tents which they erected of rein-deer skins, served them as
habitations during the remainder of the winter; and, as if Providence
had taken especial care to provide for their necessities, partridges
abounded to a greater degree than had been known for many years before.
Of course, these birds proved a seasonable supply to the sufferers;
particularly as the partridges are so very tame, that they suffer
themselves to be driven into nets, by which means large quantities are
taken at one time.
A family in _England_ would be justly esteemed objects of great
pity, if they were burnt out of their home in the midst of winter,
although many friendly habitations might be humanely opened for their
reception. What then, comparatively speaking, must have been the
situation of the _Churchill_ people—driven out by the flames in the
middle of a _November_ night, on the shores of a frozen ocean, with the
thermometer 78° below the freezing point, without any shelter save that
of a decayed out-house, no bedding, no cooking utensils, no immediate
nourishment, and no final prospect of relief, except from a reliance on
the adventitious aid of their fowling-pieces! Such a night must surely
be allowed to have had its share of horrors. But heroic strength of mind
is the characteristic of the _European_ traders to _Hudson’s Bay_; and
this alone enabled the people of _Churchill_ to escape all the evils
attendant on such a calamity.
Towards the evening of this day, the _Prince of Wales_ came to an
anchor near us.
Sept. _2d_.—In the morning we weighed anchor, and ran into the mouth
of the river, otherwise called _Five-fathom Hole_. It is a very
contracted anchorage, and at high water there is not more than three
fathoms’ water on the bar. In running in from _York Flats_, the large
beacon must be kept bearing S. W. by W. by compass. To moor the ship,
one anchor must be laid up the stream, and another down it; and the
width of swinging room at low water does not much exceed four times a
ship’s length; having a dry muddy flat on the N. W. and a shoal to the
S. E. The water is perfectly fresh, and fit for use, at the last quarter
ebb, and first quarter of the flood-tide.
As we lay at this anchorage until the 28th instant, I shall not
notice each day separately, but proceed to make such remarks as occurred
during our stay; contenting myself with briefly stating, that the
_Prince of Wales_ was employed during the time in stowing away her
cargo, &c.
The whole of the north-west part of the continent of _America_ is so
completely intersected with rivers and lakes, that _Mackenzie_ went the
greater part of his journeys by water. _York Factory_ is situated on the
bank of a river, which has sometimes been called _York River_; although
it appears that the majority agree in giving it the name of _Hayes’
River_: but it undergoes many appellations in its course from the
_Echemamis_ to the sea. I shall therefore endeavour to describe the
river, by tracing a journey from _York Factory_ to _Lake Winnepeg_, a
distance of about five hundred miles: but the fur-traders of
_Hudson’s-Bay_ are so well accustomed to the route, that two men in a
slight bark canoe will undertake it without the slightest hesitation.
On leaving _York Factory_, the boats proceed against the stream,
without meeting any obstruction, up _Hayes’ River_, _Steel River_, and
forty miles of _Hill River_; when they arrive at the first
carrying-place, called _Rock Portage_. The obstructions from
henceforward begin to augment; and at every portage, the boat, with her
whole cargo, must be carried over land; which is rendered sometimes
extremely difficult, by the ground being either rough or swampy.
After passing _Rock Portage_, the stream is contracted; and there
are a number of portages intervening, before the boats can arrive at a
broad part of the stream, called _Swampy Lake_, which contains a number
of small islands; and it may be considered as a short half-way to _Lake
Winnepeg_. Leaving _Swampy Lake_, the stream is again contracted into a
narrow slip, called _Jack River_, in which are four portages. On
crossing these, they enter a broader part, intersected by innumerable
small islands. This space is styled the _Knee Lake_, and is sixty miles
in length. One of the small islands in the centre of _Knee Lake_
contains so great a quantity of iron ore, as to cause the compass to
spin round with uncommon velocity. At the upper end of the lake the
stream gradually lessens into another slip, called _Trout River_, and
here are four more portages: then gently extending its boundaries, the
river opens on a wide expanse, called _Holey Lake_, from some deep holes
in the bottom of it, and the great inequality of the soundings
throughout. At the eastern extremity of this lake stands _Oxford House_,
the first trading port to be met with after leaving the factory. Owing
to the richness of the soil, and the geniality of the climate, this
place produces a number of excellent vegetables[32].