thence, our nights were constantly illuminated by the most vivid and
brilliant coruscations of the _aurora borealis_. Its appearance was very
different from that which I have seen in more southern latitudes;
resembling continual jets of meteoric fire from the northern part of the
horizon, which, after darting upwards in long streamers towards the
zenith, suddenly collapsed, and receded; falling back, in zig-zag,
serpentine lines, with diminished splendour; and ultimately dying away,
and vanishing from the sight; being succeeded by other jets, as
beautiful as the first. The _Cree Indians_ inhabiting _Hudson’s Bay_,
and indeed the _European_ traders there, maintain, that, in the serene
stillness of their severe winters, a soft rushing noise constantly
accompanies these coruscations, like that which is occasioned by the
quick waving of a _fan_, or of a _winnow_. The same remarkable
circumstance is mentioned by _Hearne_, who bears positive testimony to
the fact. “I can positively affirm,” says he[21], “that in still nights
I have frequently heard the _northern lights_ make a rustling and
crackling noise, like the waving of a large flag in a fresh gale of
wind. This is not peculiar to the place of which I am now writing (_the
Athapusco Lake_), as I have heard the same noise very plain at
_Churchill River_: and, in all probability, it is only for want of
attention that it has not been heard in every part of the northern
hemisphere, where these lights have been known to shine with any
considerable degree of lustre.”
August _22d_.—Early in the morning we again ungrappled. The reader
of this Journal may easily conceive that, by this time, our impatience
was at its height, as we had now been nearly a month incessantly
occupied in endeavouring to push our ship through the never-ending
drifts of ice in _Hudson’s Straits_. I shall not, therefore, attempt to
describe the joy of every person on board, when at 8 A.M. we emerged
into an open sea, and, the wind blowing tolerably fresh, at ten we
passed by _Charles’ Island_. At noon, we had lost sight of both land and
ice; and we now sailed forwards at a great rate, with both our ships in
company. Towards night-fall, we passed by a low level island, called
_Salisbury Island_, which lies at the entrance of _Hudson’s Bay_.
August _23d_.—In the morning, passed to the southward of
_Nottingham_, a long rocky island, lying north of _Cape Diggs_. I know
not if _Salisbury_ and _Nottingham Islands_ are inhabited by the
_Esquimaux_; but it is natural to suppose that this people visit them
occasionally, during their periodical voyages. At 8 A.M. we were off
_Cape Walsingham_, which is only remarkable for its being the north-west
promontory of _Labrador_, and having a string of small islands running
from it towards the sea.
In the afternoon, the _Eddystone_ parted company; as that ship was
bound for _Moose Factory_, at the southernmost extremity of the bay;
whilst we intended to proceed with the _Prince of Wales_ to _York
Factory_, on the western side. And now, having brought the ship safely
through these formidable Straits, and conducted her into the immense
gulf of _Hudson’s Bay_, we will leave her for a while to pursue her
voyage, and take an excursion round the _Bay_, in order to give some
short description of its factories, inhabitants, &c.
Amongst the many adventurous naval enterprises which reflect such
lustre upon the last years of Queen _Elizabeth_, and the beginning of
the reign of _James_ the _First_, none, perhaps, can surpass, in
intrepidity and perseverance, the voyages of _Henry Hudson_; undertaken
for the express purpose of effecting a north-west passage to the
_Pacific Ocean_. All that I have been able to collect respecting this
brave but unfortunate man is, that he sailed in the year 1610, and
discovered the Straits which now bear his name. He boldly pushed his way
through them; and finding that, after a length of six hundred miles, he
emerged into an open sea, his heart beat high with exultation on having,
as he doubtless imagined, succeeded in discovering that famous passage
for which so many had sought in vain[22]. Sailing forward, therefore,
four hundred miles towards the west, his disappointment was great, at
finding himself suddenly stopped, in the midst of his career, by an
unknown coast, extending (as has since been ascertained) from 51° to 63°
N. latitude. However, the spirit of _Hudson_ was not easily checked;
and, astonishing as it may appear, he determined on remaining the whole
winter on this dreary coast, so that he might be able to prosecute his
voyage early in the ensuing spring. After suffering innumerable
hardships, this daring adventurer sailed, early in the next year,
towards the north, in search of the much-wished-for outlet to the
_Pacific_; but his crew, not feeling the same enthusiasm which animated
their leader, and greatly fearing lest his ardent thirst for discovery
might expose them to the horrors of another winter, or, what was still
worse, to the chance of perishing amidst the terrific mountains of ice
with which they saw themselves to be surrounded, they accordingly
proceeded from murmurs to open mutiny; and having turned the heroic
_Hudson_ adrift in a small boat, together with the few who adhered to
his fortune, they basely left their leader to perish, and sailed away
for _England_, where they arrived in safety. As for the unhappy Captain,
I grieve to add, that he was never afterwards heard of: neither have we
the poor consolation of knowing that his murderers met with the
punishment due to their inhuman crime. There can be no doubt that
_Hudson’s Bay_ would have remained much longer unexplored, had it not so
happened that the winter preceding the year in which the discovery was
made must have been remarkably mild; consequently, _Hudson_ could not
have met with many obstacles in passing through the Straits;—no seaman
would have endeavoured to penetrate farther, if he had found them so
completely blocked up with ice as to impede a ship’s progress, even with
the advantage of a favourable wind attending her;—and that this was the
case with us, will appear evident, from a perusal of the preceding part
of this Journal.
The _Hudson’s-Bay_ Company’s charter is said to confirm to that body
the whole and sole right of trading with the _Indians_, within the
limits of _Hudson’s Straits_; and they have no less than six factories
established at the mouths of as many different rivers, which empty
themselves into the Bay. The northernmost of these factories is called
_Churchill_: it stands on the west side of the Bay, in latitude 58°.
50′. N.; longitude, 93°. 4′. W. The port is tolerably good, and ships of
any size may anchor in it. At the entrance is a danger, called _Cape
Mary’s Rock_; but it is easily to be avoided. On entering _Churchill
River_, ships pass between two points of land. One of them forms a sort
of peninsula; and it has a large strong fort of stone upon it, the
erection of which is said to have cost the _Hudson’s-Bay_ Company
30,000_l._: it was formerly mounted with twenty 32-pound guns. The
opposite Cape (_Mary_) has also a small battery, which formerly had six
guns on it; yet, with the most culpable pusillanimity, did the traveller
_Hearne_ (who acted as chief at that time) yield this strong position to
the _French_ Admiral _La Perouse_, without so much as attempting a
defence; who, in the year 1782, spiked the cannon, and destroyed the
factory. Since that time, the fortifications of _Churchill_ have been
suffered to remain in their present dilapidated state; and, as a
trifling security against any sudden invasion in future, the new factory
was erected at a short distance higher up the river. It is matter of
surprise, that the Company do not repair the large stone fort, which is
made uncommonly strong, both by nature and by art. As it stands upon the
extremity of a peninsula, a body of men passing the isthmus to attack it
by land, would be completely exposed to the enfilading fire of the fort.
It would be difficult also for an enemy to force the gates, because
there is a small half-moon battery built on that side, expressly for
their defence. Besides, there are dwelling-houses in the interior of the
fort, sufficiently large for the reception of the whole factory.
The shore about _Churchill River_ is high and rocky, producing only
a very few insignificant trees and shrubs. Farther north, towards the
country of the _Esquimaux_, this small vestige of vegetation dwindles
away even to a simple bush or two, and these are only to be found at a
considerable distance from each other.
Proceeding southward, towards a more genial country, we arrive at
_York Factory_, standing upon low swampy ground, completely covered with
wood: its latitude is 57°. 2′. N.; longitude 92°. 40′. W. This place was
also visited by the _French_ in 1782, who burnt the factory, and
destroyed a small battery at the entrance of _Hayes’ River_. But
_Perouse_ was grievously disappointed in the chief object of his voyage:
and as it is so intimately connected with the subject on which I am
writing, perhaps it will not be thought improper to describe the
disappointment which the _French_ suffered in the expedition;
particularly as the fitting-out of the squadron must have cost the
_French_ nation much money; and their burning a few miserable
mart-houses in _Hudson’s Bay_ could only injure individuals, and most
probably was not felt at all by the public.
_Perouse_ entered _Hudson’s Bay_ in 1782, having under his command a
line-of-battle ship and two large frigates. With this force he of course
insured the capture of the annual ships, together with their rich cargo
of furs, oil, &c.; and as the escape of the three ships does high honour
to the skill and intrepidity of their commanders, it is well worthy of
notice. The ship which was bound to _Churchill_, was commanded by
Captain _Christopher_; and the _French_ admiral fell in with her at sea,
just previous to her arrival at that place. A frigate was immediately
dispatched in pursuit; but the night drawing on apace, Captain
_Christopher_ resolved on a bold manœuvre, which he accordingly carried
into execution with great success. Perceiving that the _Frenchman_ was
ignorant of the coast, and, by his following the _English_ ship, that he
was determined to govern his own vessel by her motions,—whereby he hoped
to avoid all danger, and in the end secure his prize,—Captain
_Christopher_ sent his men aloft, and furled his sails, pretending to
come to an anchor. The enemy immediately conjectured that it would be
dangerous for him to proceed farther; therefore he directly brought his
frigate to anchor in reality. Captain _Christopher_ rejoiced that his
deception had so far succeeded to his wishes; and he made sail to sea
with the greatest dispatch. Night coming on, and the _Frenchman_ being a
long time in getting up his anchor, the _Englishman_ was soon out of
sight, and escaped in safety to the northward. Fired with this
disappointment, _Perouse_ burnt the factory; and proceeded to _York_, to
secure the other ship, then lying at that place, under the command of
Captain _Fowler_. As there was not depth of water sufficient for his
ships to enter _York_, he anchored in _Nelson River_, and made every
disposition for an attack upon the ship and factory by the dawn of the
next day; but, to his utter mortification, he found in the morning that
the bird had taken wing;—for Captain _Fowler_ had perceived three large
ships at anchor in _Nelson River_ the evening before, and, wisely
conjecturing that they could have no good intentions towards him, put to
sea during the night. _Perouse_ dispatched a fast-sailing frigate in
search of him, which soon had sight of the runaway; but Captain _Fowler_
finding the _Frenchman_ to have much superiority in point of speed,
tacked about, and stood in for the land to the south of _York_, hoping
thereby to entice the _Frenchman_ into shallow water: the enemy,
however, discovering his design, and fearing lest, in further pursuit,
he might incur the risk of shipwreck, put off to sea; and Captain
_Fowler_ pursued his voyage to _England_ in safety. The season was too
far advanced to attempt any other exploit; and having therefore burnt
the factory at _York_, _Perouse_ returned to _Europe_; highly chagrined,
no doubt, at being thus foiled by a pair of _English_ sailors, and at
having failed of success in the principal aim of his expedition. As
there are many shoals and dangerous rocks in _James’ Bay_[23], he did
not think fit to send a ship to destroy the southern settlements: and to
the credit of this unfortunate navigator, I must state, that he
publickly averred, if he had been aware of the factories being the
property of individuals, he would assuredly have quitted them without
molestation. It is remarkable that the Bay ship (as she is called) got
safe to _Moose Factory_, and returned to _England_, without being at all
aware how very narrowly she must have escaped falling into the hands of
the enemy.
The next factory to the south of _York_ is called _Severn_; but the
shore at this place runs off much too shoal to allow a ship to approach
the coast; therefore a schooner of about eighty tons is employed to take
the furs to _York_, and to bring back the necessary supplies. This is
also the case with _Albany_, the next factory towards the south; except
that the latter place sends its furs, &c. to _Moose_, instead of _York
Factory_.
At the very bottom or southernmost part of _Hudson’s Bay_, which is
styled _James’s Bay_, we arrive at _Moose Factory_; standing, like all
the rest, on a river, bearing the same name. This place has a good
anchorage, and the climate is milder than in any of the other factories.
It is annually visited by a ship from _England_; as at _Moose_ the furs
are collected together from the lesser mart-houses of _Albany_, _East
Main_, and _Richmond_, for the purpose of being shipped off to _Europe_.
We must now proceed round the bottom of the Bay;—and the next settlement
is at _East Main River_, nearly opposite to the western shore of
_Labrador_. The factory was established at this place for the purpose of
trading with the natives of that vast peninsula; but their internal
mart-houses verge generally towards the south, and the marten skins from
this factory are said to be the finest in quality of any which are
received from _Hudson’s Bay_. The inhabitants around this settlement are
a roving race of people, styled, by the _Europeans_, _Mountain Indians_,
to distinguish them from the _Esquimaux_, who inhabit the sea-coast to
the northward.
At some distance to the north of _East Main_ is a bight, called
_Richmond Bay_: here is a house belonging to the Company, but not a
permanent establishment; as the people who arrive from _East-Main
Factory_ in the spring, return again to that place in the fall of the
year, to remain for the winter. The annual voyages to _Richmond_ are
undertaken for the purpose of procuring oil, as there is a good
white-whale fishery in this Bay. The white whale[24] is not much larger
than a first-rate porpoise; neither does it yield any whalebone fit for
use: but the oil is nearly equal in value to that of the seal; and it
was sold in _England_, in the year 1813, at fifty-six pounds a ton. The
fish itself is perfectly white.
There is also a small whale fishery at _Churchill Factory_, but it
is not very productive: perhaps it would be more advantageous for the
Company if they were to convert the remains of it into a new fishing
establishment in some more efficient situation.
I have now reached that part of my Journal which I before alluded
to, as being the most proper place to introduce the account of the
disastrous termination of two attempts made by the _Hudson’s-Bay
Company_ to settle a permanent white-whale fishery at _Richmond Bay_.
When first the _Europeans_ went to settle at _Richmond_, the
_Esquimaux_, who reside about this part, kept them in a continual state
of alarm all the winter, by lurking about the woods, in their sledges
drawn by dogs. At length an English boy was missing from the settlement;
and, after some difficulty, two _Esquimaux_ were seized, and confined in
separate apartments. In order to recover the absent youth, the settlers
made use of a stratagem. A musket was discharged in a remote apartment;
and the settlers entering the room in which one of the _Esquimaux_ was
confined, they informed him, by signs, that his comrade had been put to
death, for decoying away the boy; and they gave him to understand, at
the same time, that he must prepare to undergo the same fate, unless he
would faithfully pledge himself to restore the absentee. The _Esquimaux_
naturally promised every thing; and on being set at liberty, he made the
best of his way into the woods, and, of course, was never afterwards
heard of. They kept the other native for some time a prisoner: at
length, he tried to effect his escape, by boldly seizing the sentinel’s
firelock at night, but the piece accidentally going off, he was so
terrified at the report, that they easily replaced him in confinement:
yet either the loss of liberty, a supposition that his countryman had
been murdered, or that he was himself reserved for some cruel death,
deprived the poor wretch of reason. As he became exceedingly
troublesome, the settlers held a conference as to the most eligible mode
of getting rid of him; and it being deemed _good policy_ to deter the
natives from similar offences, by making an example, they accordingly
shot the poor maniac in cold blood, without having given themselves the
trouble to ascertain whether he were really guilty or innocent.
Possessing only the plain leading facts of this affair[25], it is
not easy to determine how far existing circumstances might have
justified such an act of severity towards an ignorant being, who was
also, perhaps, totally innocent. The reasons ought certainly to have
been weighty which induced them to put the poor man to death; and I hope
they will be able hereafter to reconcile the deed to God and to their
own consciences.
After this time, _Richmond_ was abandoned as a permanent
establishment; and they fell into the present method of visiting this
place only during the fishing season, and returning to pass the winter
at _East-Main Factory_. Captain _Turner_, however, represented to the
_Hudson’s-Bay Company_, that, in his opinion, want of perseverance was
alone necessary to render _Richmond_ a safe and permanent settlement;
and that, by having people on the spot, ready to begin fishing early in
the spring of the year, much greater profit would necessarily accrue to
the Company. Accordingly, he received directions to take thither seven
people, who were to remain at _Richmond_ during the whole winter. In the
spring of the succeeding year, the northern or _Hunting Indians_, who
had visited _Richmond_ in pursuit of game, came, as usual, to barter
their furs at _East-Main Factory_; at the same time bringing the
dreadful intelligence that the seven unfortunate _Europeans_ had been
murdered by the _Esquimaux_. The bodies of some of the settlers were
afterwards found; although it be by no means certain that they were
killed by the _Esquimaux_: such, however, is a fair presumption, as this
people had before displayed a hostile disposition in the case of the
boy; and the place was rifled of all the metal, of which the _Esquimaux_
are known to be remarkably fond: add to this, that the northern
_Indians_ had long been accustomed to trade yearly at _East Main_, and
no instance had ever been known of their behaving with treachery towards
the _Europeans_.
On the other hand, we must allow, that the _Hunting Indians_ and the
_Esquimaux_ live in a state of constant enmity, and, consequently, that
their evil reports of each other should be cautiously received. It is
also certain, that the northern _Indians_ are as partial to spirituous
liquors as the _Esquimaux_ are to metals. Three bloody shirts, belonging
to the murdered settlers, were found in the tent of a northern _Indian_,
which he alleged to have taken from the bodies of the slain, after the
_Esquimaux_ had quitted them. Upon the whole, it remains uncertain
whether the settlers at _Richmond_ perished by the hands of the
_Esquimaux_, or by those of the northern _Indians_: for my own part, I
should be inclined to the former opinion. This catastrophe has
effectually put a stop to any further attempts towards establishing a
permanent settlement at _Richmond Bay_.
The following anecdote of Mr. _Darby_, the father of the celebrated
Mrs. _Mary Robinson_, will shew that the _Esquimaux_ are of a
treacherous disposition, and extremely averse from any settlements being
made on their coasts.
Mr. _Darby_ had long fostered in his mind a scheme of establishing a
whale fishery upon the coast of _Labrador_, and of civilizing the
_Esquimaux Indians_, in order to employ them in the extensive
undertaking. Hazardous and wild as this plan appeared to his wife and to
his friends, Mr. _Darby_ persevered in his resolution to prosecute it;
and actually obtained the approbation and encouragement of some of the
leading men at that time in power, who promoted his designs. To
facilitate the execution of his plan, he deemed it necessary to reside
at least two years in _America_. His wife felt an invincible antipathy
for the sea, and, of course, heard his determination with horror. The
pleadings of affection, of reason, and of prudence, were alike
ineffectual, and he sailed for _America_.
The issue of this rash enterprise proved quite as unfortunate as it
was predicted. Mr. _Darby_ had embarked in it his whole fortune; and it
failed. The noble patrons of his plan deceived him in their assurances
of marine protection, and the island of promise became a scene of
desolation. “_The Indians rose in a body, burnt his settlement, murdered
many of his people, and turned the product of their toil adrift on the
merciless ocean._”—This great misfortune was followed by other
commercial losses; and the family of this too enterprising man were, in
consequence, reduced from a state of affluence and luxury to a very
different condition[26].
Having now described the whole of the Factories established upon the
sea-coast of _Hudson’s Bay_, it will be necessary to say something of
the interior: this is so far from being unknown, that a man may with
safety travel from _Hudson’s Bay_ to _Quebec_, in _Canada_, by land. The
_Hudson’s-Bay Company_ have many small factories, or rather mart-houses,
dispersed in all directions, for upwards of one thousand miles in the
interior; to which the _Indians_ bring furs, feathers, quills, &c. in
exchange for cloths, blankets, ammunition, fowling-pieces, trinkets, &c.
The furs thus collected are sent down the rivers, in large boats, to the
factories on the sea-coast, whence they are shipped off for Europe, as
before described. There is great jealousy existing between the
_Hudson’s-Bay_ traders and the _Canadian Company_, styled the
_North-West Adventurers_, respecting the traffic in _peltry_ with the
_Indians_. As the mart-houses of the two parties meet inland, each uses
all the means in its power to induce the natives to barter furs with
themselves, in preference to their opponents: nay, to such a pitch have
they carried their mutual animosity, that it is not long since a man in
the Company’s employ actually killed a _Canadian_ trader, in a dispute
relative to the purchase of some furs from the _Indians_; for which
offence the culprit was tried at _Montreal_: and as it appeared that the
_Canadian_ had given him sufficient provocation, the jury returned a
verdict of manslaughter.
The _Indians_ have not failed to observe this competition, so
impolitic on both parts, and they profit by it accordingly.