CHAPTER I

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_The Story of Prague_

_The Mediæval Town Series_

=VERONA.=(A)

By ALETHEA WIEL.

=CHARTRES.=(B)

By CECIL HEADLAM.

=CAIRO.=(B)

By STANLEY LANE-POOLE.

=BRUGES.=(B)

By ERNEST GILLIAT-SMITH.

=ROME.=(B) [_2nd Edition._

By NORWOOD YOUNG.

=FLORENCE.=(B) [_3rd Edition._

By EDMUND G. GARDNER.

=ASSISI.=(A) [_2nd Edition._

By LINA DUFF GORDON.

=CONSTANTINOPLE.=(A)

By WILLIAM H. HUTTON.

=MOSCOW.=(A)

By WIRT GERRARE.

=ROUEN.=(B) [_2nd Edition._

By THEODORE A. COOK.

=NUREMBERG.=(A) [_3rd Edition._

By CECIL HEADLAM.

=PERUGIA.=(A) [_4th Edition._

By MARGARET SYMONDS and LINA DUFF GORDON.

=TOLEDO.=(A)

By HANNAH LYNCH.

_The volumes marked_ (A) _are_ 3_s._ 6_d._ _net in cloth_, 4_s._

6_d._ _net in leather_; _those marked_ (B) _are_ 4_s._ 6_d._ _net

in cloth_, 5_s._ 6_d._ _net in leather_.

[Illustration: The Pulverthurm Prague]

_The Story of_ =PRAGUE=

_by Count Lützow_

_Illustrated by Nelly Erichsen_

[Illustration: colophon]

_London: J. M. Dent & Co._

_Aldine House, 29 and 30 Bedford Street_

_Covent Garden, W.C._

[Illustration]

1902

_All rights reserved_

To

PROFESSOR MORFILL, M.A.

_Corresponding Member of the Royal Scientific Society

of Bohemia, who has so largely contributed

to making Bohemia known to England_

CONTENTS

PAGE

_Introduction_ xv

CHAPTER I

_Prague at the Earliest Period_ 1

CHAPTER II

_From the Reign of Charles IV. to the Executions

at Prague in 1621_ 23

CHAPTER III

_Prague in Modern Times_ 128

CHAPTER IV

_Palaces_ 140

CHAPTER V

_Churches and Monasteries_ 149

CHAPTER VI

_The Bohemian Museum_ 164

CHAPTER VII

_Walks in Prague_ 167

CHAPTER VIII

_Walks and Excursions near Prague_ 197

_Note_ 201

_Appendix_ 203

_Princes of Bohemia_ 204

_Kings of Bohemia_ 205

_Index_ 207

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

_The Pulverthurm_ (_photogravure_) _Frontispiece_

_Tomb of Ottokar I._ 6

_The Jewish Cemetery_ 9

_The Hradcany and Ottokar Towers_ 13

_Charles IV., from Triforium of St. Vitus_ 16

_The Gothic Projection, Carolinum_ 19

_The Bridge Tower of the Malá Strana_ 27

_Statue of St. John Nepomuk on the Bridge_ 30

_Medals of Hus_ 33

_Medals of Hus_ 39

_The Bridge Tower of the Old Town_ 45

_The Hradcany_ 53

_View of Prague and Hradcany Castle_ 61

_The Town Hall and Market-Place_ 71

_South Porch of Tyn Church_ 75

_Clock Tower in Town Hall of Staré Mesto_ 80

_Chapel of Town Hall_ 83

_Wenceslas Chapel, St. Vitus's Cathedral_ 91

_The East Gate of the Hradcany_ 97

_Rudolph II._ 101

_Tombstone of Tycho Brahe in Tyn Church_ 104

_The Royal Officials are Thrown from the

Windows on May 23, 1618_ 111

_Battle of the White Mountain, November 8,

1620_ 115

_The Executions on the Market-Place of the

Old Town of Prague on the 21st of

June 1621_ 121

_The Dungeon in the Town Hall_ 125

_Bethlehem Chapel_ 127

_The Old Synagogue_ 129

_Secret Seal of the Malá Strana_ 133

_The Oldest Great Seal of the Old Town_ 139

_Gate of the Clam-Gallas Palace_ 141

_The Hall of Vladislav in the Hradcany

Castle_ 145

_The Most Ancient Shield of the Old Town_ 148

_View of Strahov_ 150

_St. Vitus from the 'Stag's Ditch'_ 153

_The Tyn Church_ 157

_The Library, Strahov_ 161

_Most Ancient Arms of the Malá Strana_ 163

_The Powder Tower_ 169

_Door of Old Synagogue_ 171

_Jewish Town Hall and Old Synagogue_ 175

_Chapel of St. Martin_ 182

_Karlov_ 186

_From the Bridge Looking Towards the Old

Town_ 188

_View of the Bridge from the Mills of the

Old Town_ 191

_The 'Star' Hunting Lodge_ 199

_The Oldest Great Seal of the Malá Strana,

Thirteenth Century_ 200

_View of Prague in 1606, after Sadeler's famous

Engraving, in Three Sections_ _facing_ 206

_Map of Prague_ " 212

INTRODUCTION

Few cities in the world have a more striking and feverish historical

record than Prague, the ancient capital of Bohemia and of the lands of

the Bohemian crown. It is a very ancient saying at Prague that when

throwing a stone through a window you throw with it a morsel of history.

The story of Prague is to a great extent the history of Bohemia, and all

Bohemians have always shown a devoted affection for the

'hundred-towered, golden Prague,' as they fondly call it. As Mr. Arthur

Symons has well said, Prague is to a Bohemian 'still the epitome of the

history of his country; he sees it, as a man sees the woman he loves,

with her first beauty, and he loves it as a man loves a woman, more for

what she has suffered.' Foreigners, however, have not been backward in

admiring the beauties of Prague. The words of Humboldt, who declared

that Prague was the most beautiful inland town of Europe, have often

been quoted, and it is certain that a traveller who looks at the town

from the bridge, or the Strahov Monastery or the Belvedere, will share

this opinion.

Yet Prague is, I think, very little known to Englishmen, and I received

with great pleasure Mr. Dent's suggestion that I should write a short

sketch of the history of the capital of my country. It has, indeed, to

me been a labour of love. The geographical situation of Prague is to

some extent a clue to its historical importance. Bohemia, the Slavic

land that lies furthest west, has always been the battlefield of the

Slavic and Teutonic races, and its capital, Prague, has for more than a

thousand years been an outlying bastion of the Slav people, which,

sometimes captured, has always been recovered. Within the time of men

now living Prague had the appearance of a German city, while it has now

a thoroughly Slav character. The town has therefore an intense interest

for the student of history, and, indeed, of politics. For more than two

centuries a religious conflict, interwoven with the racial struggle in a

manner that cannot be defined in few words, attracted the attention of

Europe to Bohemia, and particularly to Prague; for the battles of the

Zizkov and the Vysehrad were fought within the precincts of the present

city. But it is not only in the annals of war that Prague plays a

pre-eminent part. The foundation of the University for a time made

Prague one of the centres of European thought. Thanks to the enthusiasm

and eloquence of Hus, the endeavour to reform the Church, which had

failed in England, was for a time successful in Bohemia. Though he was

not born at Prague, and died in a foreign country, the life of Hus

belongs to Prague. The traveller cannot pass the Bethlehem Chapel or the

Carolinum without thinking of the great reformer. Though the

iconoclastic fury of the extreme Hussites and the rage of incessant

civil warfare have deprived Prague of many of its ancient monuments, it

is by no means so devoid of architectural beauty as has been stated by

those who, perhaps, know the town only by hearsay. The three ancient

round chapels, dating from the beginning of the tenth century, still

remain as examples of the earliest ecclesiastical architecture of

Prague. The Church of St. George, on the Hradcany Hill, which is now

being carefully restored, is a very fine specimen of early romanesque

architecture. The four towers at the outskirts of the Hradcany, which

date from the thirteenth century, are an interesting relic of the

ancient fortifications of Prague. The principal churches of the town,

St. Vitus's Cathedral and the Tyn Church, frequently enlarged and

altered, recall the vicissitudes of Bohemian history, in which they

played such a prominent part. Ferdinand the First's Belvedere villa is

one of the finest Renaissance buildings in Northern Europe.

I have found no lack of materials while writing this short note on the

story of Prague. I have of course mainly relied on the old chronicles,

most of which are written in the national language. These almost unknown

chroniclers are little inferior to those of Italy. Their fierce

religious and racial animosities sometimes inspire them, and even carry

away the reader, whatever his own views may be. Want of space has

unfortunately obliged me to quote but sparingly from these ancient

chronicles. Of modern historical works on Prague, Dr. Tomek's _Dejepis

Mesta Prahy_ (History of the town of Prague) is vastly superior to all

previous works of the present age. This book, written in the

little-known Bohemian language, deserves to rank with Gregorovius's

_Mediæval Rome_ as one of the greatest town-histories of the nineteenth

century. The twelve volumes of Dr. Tomek's work that have appeared up to

now only bring the history of the city down to the year 1608. As the

smallest of these volumes is more than double the size of this little

book, it is unnecessary to say that I have not been able to avail myself

of the contents of Dr. Tomek's book to a large extent. I have mentioned,

in an Appendix to this book, a few of the other works that I have

consulted.

After giving an account of the story of Prague, I have in Chapters IV.

and V. briefly referred to the most prominent objects of interest in the

town. With the exception of the bridge--which every traveller will

cross, however short his stay may be--the town hall and the

neighbouring Jewish churchyard, an account of these will be found in

these two chapters. A somewhat fuller notice of the town will be found

in Chapters VI., VII. and VIII., though here, too, it has been

impossible to mention every subject of interest for the student of

history, architecture and archæology. The history of Prague is to so

great an extent that of Bohemia that I have at the end of this volume

given a list of the rulers--princes, afterwards kings--of Bohemia, which

the reader will, I think, find useful.

I have often been told by English friends that Prague is a very distant

and 'out-of-the-way' place. I am, I think, entitled to dispute the

correctness of this statement. Dresden, one of the towns most visited by

English travellers, is only four hours from Prague. The train leaving

Dresden at 11.18 reaches Prague at 3.11. Prague is also not distant from

the Bohemian watering-places, Karlsbad, Marienbad and Franzensbad, and

the distance would appear yet smaller were it not for the slowness of

all Austrian, even express, trains. I may add a word on the hotels of

Prague. Of the best of these hotels, three--the Hotel de Saxe, the 'Blue

Star,' and the 'Black Horse'--are situated close to the State Railway

Station and the powder tower, while a fourth, the 'Victoria,' is in the

Jungmann Street. In all these hotels the English traveller will often

regret the absence of a reading or public sitting-room. Even when such a

room is provided, it is often closed or used for private card parties.

In late years I have during my many visits to Prague always stayed at

the Hotel de Saxe, and I can conscientiously recommend it. To those who,

for the purpose of study or for other reasons, intend making a somewhat

lengthy stay at Prague, The Pension Finger (corner of the Vaclavské

Námesti and the town park) can be recommended.

It remains to me to thank those who have kindly assisted me while I was

preparing this little book. As on previous occasions, I have again had

the privilege of frequently consulting Mr. Adolphus Patera, head

librarian of the Bohemian Museum. Dr. Matejka, guardian of the print

room of that museum, has most kindly permitted the reproduction of some

of the treasures contained in that collection. Dr. Jaromir Celakovsky,

archivist of the town of Prague, kindly granted permission that the

interesting old town seals of Prague should be reproduced here.

Monsignor Lehner kindly furnished me with some fresh information on the

subject of early Bohemian ecclesiastical architecture, on which he is so

great an authority. Dr. Zahradnik, canon and librarian of the Strahov

Monastery, has given me much valuable information concerning his ancient

monastery, and particularly concerning the library that he so ably and

skilfully directs. I have also had the privilege of receiving advice

from Professors Kalousek and Mourek.

LÜTZOW.

PRAGUE, _November 28, 1901_.

The Story of Prague

CHAPTER I

_Prague at the Earliest Period_

The earliest tales of the foundation of Prague are as those of most very

ancient cities--entirely mythical. Here, as elsewhere, very ancient

legends and traditions take the place of genuine history. Yet a notice

of such ancient towns that ignored these legends would be valueless. It

is almost certain that the earliest inhabited spot within the precincts

of the present city of Prague was the hill on the right bank of the

Vltava or Moldau, known as the Vysehrad ('higher castle' or Acropolis).

It is also probable that the 'higher castle' was from a very early date

the residence of a prince who ruled over part of Bohemia, and the very

ancient legend that refers to the Vysehrad as the residence of Krok or

Crocus, the earliest Sovereign of Bohemia, is no doubt founded on this

fact. Krok is said to have left no son, but three daughters, Kázi, Teta

and Libussa. Libussa, though the youngest, succeeded her father as ruler

of Bohemia. Libussa is described by the ancient chronicler, Cosmas of

Prague, as 'a wonderful woman among women, chaste in body, righteous in

her morals, second to none as judge over the people, affable to all and

even amiable, the pride and glory of the female sex, doing wise and

manly deeds; but, as nobody is perfect, this so praiseworthy woman was,

alas, a soothsayer.' The last words, no doubt, refer to Libussa's

prophecy of the future greatness of Prague, which will be mentioned

presently.

The great merits of Libussa do not, however, appear to have reconciled

the Bohemians to the rule of a woman. When Libussa had been sitting in

judgment on a dispute between two nobles--brothers who both claimed the

paternal inheritance--the one to whom the princess's decision was

unfavourable insulted her by exclaiming that it was a shame for a

country to be ruled by a woman. Libussa then declared that she would no

longer rule so ferocious a people. She bade the people disperse and

reassemble on the following day, when she would accept as husband

whomsoever they might select. The Bohemians, however, declared that they

would leave the choice to her and accept as their ruler the man whom she

would choose. Libussa, who here is represented as a visionary or

soothsayer, then said, pointing to the distant hills, 'Behind these

hills is a small river called Belina and on its bank a farm named

Stadic. Near that farm is a field and in that field your future ruler is

ploughing with two oxen marked with various spots. His name is Premysl

and his descendant will rule over you for ever. Take my horse and follow

him; he will lead you to the spot.'

Guided by Libussa's horse, the Bohemian envoys immediately set forth and

found the peasant Premysl ploughing his field. They immediately saluted

him as their ruler. Premysl mounted the horse and, followed by the

Bohemian envoys, proceeded to the Vysehrad, where he was immediately

betrothed to Libussa. The chroniclers tell us that when he arrived at

the Vysehrad he still wore the dress of the Bohemian peasant, and that

his rough shoes were preserved in the Vysehrad castle as late as the

twelfth century. Premysl became the founder of a line that ruled in

Bohemia up to 1306; and the present King of Bohemia, Francis Joseph, is

his successor in the female line.

To Libussa is ascribed the second foundation of a city on the site of

the present town of Prague. It is said to have taken place on the left

bank of the Vltava, on the Hradcany Hill. The spot then, and even far

later, was covered by a dense forest; the ancient Slavs, it may be

noted, generally chose secluded spots surrounded by forests as their

dwelling-places. The oldest account, and therefore the most valuable, is

that of the chronicler, Cosmas of Prague (about 1045 to 1125), whom I

shall again quote. He tells us that Libussa, 'standing on a high rock on

the Vysehrad in presence of her husband Premysl, and the elders of the

people incited by the spirit of prophecy uttered this prediction: I see

a town the glory of which will reach the stars. There is a spot in the

forest, thirty stades from this village, which the River Vltava

encircles, and which to the north the stream Brusnice secures by its

deep valley; and to the south a rocky hill, which from its rocks takes

the name of Petrin,[1] towers above it.... When you have reached this

spot you will find a man in the midst of the forest who is working at a

door-sill for a house.[2] And as even mighty lords bend before a low

door, so from this event you shall call the town which you will build

"Praha." ... They proceed immediately to the ancient forest, and having

found the sign which had been given them they build on this site a town,

Prague, the mistress of all Bohemia.'

This is the most ancient record of the foundation of Prague on which all

subsequent ones are based. The older castle on the Vysehrad, separated

from the newer foundation by the vast extent of land now occupied by

the Staré Mesto (old town) and the Nové Mesto (new town) continued to be

the frequent residence of the Bohemian princes.

The date of the foundation of Prague by Libussa is as uncertain as

everything concerning that semi-mythical princess. Hajek of Libocan, a

chronicler of the sixteenth century, gives the year 752 as the date of

the foundation of the castle on the Hradcany Hill. It was at first of a

very simple character, consisting probably but of wooden buildings.

During the reign of Libussa's successors--of whom little but their names

is known[3]--we have scant information as regards the growth of Prague.

After the introduction of Christianity one of the earliest Christian

churches is stated to have been erected on the Hradcany at Prague. The

new settlement rapidly extended itself, and from an early date we read

of the 'suburbium Pragense,' which extended on both banks of the river

and included the present Malá Strana (small quarter) at the foot of the

Hradcany Hill, as well as that part of the Staré Mesto that is nearest

to the Vltava. Though there is but little trustworthy information

concerning this early period, it is certain that the city gradually

spread out on both banks of the river. They were from the earliest

historical period united by a bridge that stood near the site of the

present far-famed bridge.

Buildings not connected with either the Vysehrad or the Hradcany

settlements sprang up at a very early period. According to Professor

Tomek, as early as the year 993 some houses stood on the site of the

present Poric Street (close to the State Railway Station).

Immediately after the introduction of Christianity, but particularly

during the reign of the pious Wenceslas (920-935), many churches were

erected at Prague, though the earliest building devoted to Christian

worship was at Levy Hradec.[4] According to some accounts a church on

the Hradcany was dedicated to the Virgin by Borivoj, the first Christian

ruler of Bohemia. It was in this church that St. Wenceslas received the

tonsure. The earliest church on the Vysehrad probably dates from nearly

the same time. Prince Wenceslas--afterwards sainted--built several

churches, and also laid the foundations of the first buildings on the

spot where St. Vitus's Cathedral now stands. Wenceslas was induced to

build this church by the gift of an arm of St. Vitus, a precious relic

that he received from the German King, Henry I. The first church of St.

Vitus, like all the earliest religious buildings in Bohemia, was in the

Romanesque style. In 939 the remains of St. Wenceslas were conveyed here

from Stará Boleslav, where he had (in 935) been murdered by his

treacherous younger brother, Boleslav.[5]

The successor of St. Wenceslas, Boleslav I., whom Palacky calls 'one of

the most powerful monarchs that ever occupied the Bohemian throne,'

greatly extended the frontiers of his country, a fact that necessarily

largely increased the importance of his capital; but of yet greater

importance for the development of Prague was--in accordance with the

ideas of the time--the foundation of the bishopric in 973. It took place

during the reign of Boleslav II., the son and successor of Boleslav I.

Bohemia had formerly belonged to the diocese of Regensburg or Ratisbon.

At the time of the foundation the Bohemian princes ruled not only over

Bohemia and its sister lands (Moravia and Silesia), but also over

Southern Poland, Galicia and a large part of Northern Hungary. All

these countries formed parts of the new bishopric of Prague. Palacky

justly regrets that an archbishopric was not founded for so vast an

extent of land. It is only several centuries later that Prague became an

archbishopric. The first bishop, Thietmar, was, after a short time,

succeeded by Vojtech or Adalbert, a Bohemian who was afterwards sainted

and is still one of the patrons of the country. After the death of

Boleslav II., in 999, civil war broke out in Bohemia, and the

development of Prague was necessarily retarded.

[Illustration: TOMB OF OTTOKAR I.]

The population of Prague--originally entirely Slavic--was at an early

period increased by German immigrants. They first arrived at Prague as

permanent residents during the reign of King Vratislav (1061-1092). They

settled on the right bank of the Vltava, and, favoured by the Bohemian

Sovereigns, increased rapidly. They were granted special privileges by

Sobeslav, and these privileges were afterwards extended by King

Wenceslas I. Thus the old town in distinction from the new town,

afterwards founded by Charles IV., long had a somewhat German

character, and indeed only entirely lost it during the Hussite Wars. The

old document stating that 'no German or Jew shall be burgomaster of the

old town of Prague,' which is still shown in the town hall, only dates

from this period.

The old town, however, always contained a strong Bohemian-Slavic

element, and the fusion of the two nationalities undoubtedly became

closer when, during the reign of King Wenceslas I., the old town

was--probably about the year 1235--enclosed with walls. These walls

starting from the Vltava, near the present bridge of Francis Joseph,

followed the line of the Elizabeth Street and the Josefské Námesti till

they reached the Prikopy or Graben. Thence they proceeded along the

present Prikopy, Ovocná ulice and Ferdinandova ulice till they rejoined

the river, near the spot where the national theatre now stands. The

Graben, now the principal thoroughfare of Prague by its name, which

signifies ditch or trench, still recalls its original destination. The

Prasná Brana (powder tower or gate) marks the spot where one of the

gates of the old town stood. According to Dr. Tomek the fortifications

consisted of a double wall and double ditch, which was filled with water

derived from the Vltava. With the exception of the Vysehrad and a few

straggling buildings near the present Poric Street, the new walls

contained all that part of Prague that was situated on the right bank of

the river.

Premysl Ottokar II., the son and successor of Wenceslas I., was one of

Bohemia's greatest kings. Both by successful warfare and by skilful

diplomacy he so greatly enlarged his dominions, that his rule at one

time extended from the Adriatic in the South to the Baltic in the North.

Though his many campaigns left him little leisure to reside in his

capital, Ottokar enlarged both the town and the fortifications of

Prague.

In 1257 he greatly added to the fortifications that no doubt already

existed on the Hradcany Hill. He caused the whole Hradcany Hill to be

surrounded by a strong wall and the various towers to be connected by

covered passages. Ten knights and 300 armed men were to keep constant

watch and ward over the fortifications. The still existent

towers--Daliborka, Mikulka, and the white and the black towers--formed

part of these fortifications. Somewhat later the King also enclosed with

walls the Malá Strana (small quarter)--that is to say, the buildings

that extended from the foot of the Hradcany to the river. Here

fortifications were necessary in three directions only, as in the

direction of the Hradcany that fortress protected the newly enclosed

settlement.

It appears probable that when the old town had been fortified a

tête-de-pont had been built on the left bank of the Vltava, which,

together with a similar building on the right bank, was to secure the

bridge of Prague. The fortified gate on the left bank was now included

in the new fortifications. It may here be remarked that when the old

town had been fortified the Jewish quarter (vicus Judæorum) had been

included in these fortifications; gates, however, separated the Jewish

quarter from the rest of the old town.

The Jewish colony of Prague is of very ancient origin. According to Mr

Foges,[6] who was himself a member of that community, Jews went there

immediately after the destruction of Jerusalem, if not even before that

event. Popular tradition, always given to exaggeration, indeed affirms

that Jews first settled at

[Illustration: THE JEWISH CEMETERY]

Prague, or rather at Buiarnum, which stood on the spot where Libussa

afterwards founded Prague, before the beginning of the Christian era,

and being therefore guiltless of all participation in the Crucifixion

they had fared better in Prague in mediæval times than in most other

cities. It is true that Jew-baiting was not unknown in Prague. Mr Foges

quotes from the original Hebrew a graphic account of the great

persecution of the Jews in 1389. Yet, on the whole, we find at Prague

fewer traces of the intense hatred of the Jews which is general

elsewhere, and individual Jews often were in favour with the rulers of

Bohemia. Thus the Rabbi Löwi Bezalel, who died in 1609, and is buried in

the old Jewish cemetery, enjoyed the favour of Rudolph II. Bezalel, who

was a student of astronomy and astrology, then intimately connected with

it, was a friend of Tycho Brahe, who attracted Rudolph's attention to

the learned Jew. Bezalel was summoned to the royal palace, on the

Hradcany, and a very lengthy interview between him and Rudolph took

place. It is stated that Bezalel, during his whole lifetime, refused to

give any account of this mysterious interview. He was probably a

cabalist, and many quaint legends have centred round his name.

According to Dr. Tomek the period between the circumvallation of the old

town and the foundation of the new town was that in which the

preponderance of the German element at Prague attained its height. The

Sovereigns favoured the German immigrants, wishing to use them as a

counterpoise to the overwhelming power of the masterful Bohemian nobles.

The old chronicler Dalimil, when describing Ottokar II.'s departure on

his last fatal campaign against Rudolph of Hapsburg, refers to the

apathy of the Bohemians, many of whom considered themselves as neglected

in favour of the Germans, and to the King's resentment. He is made to

say: 'When I return from the wars I will inflict much evil on the

Bohemians. I will thus stain the Petrin[7] with their blood, that no

Bohemian will any longer be seen on the bridge of Prague.' The passage

is interesting also, as showing how early the bridge of Prague became

famous.[8]

The feelings expressed by Dalimil, who always writes as the champion of

the Bohemian aristocracy, were, however, by no means universal among the

Bohemians, many of whom were warmly attached to their Sovereign. We read

that when, on June 27th, 1278, Ottokar left Prague for the last time 'he

took leave of all those whom he loved and who were faithful to him; the

clergy and the whole people followed him to the city-gates with prayers

and many tears.' They seem to have foreseen the fatal defeat on the

Marchfeld where Ottokar lost his life. When the news of his death

reached Prague, lamentation was general from the royal palace to the

lowliest hovel. Though Ottokar was under sentence of excommunication,

the Bohemians, never very heedful of the Papal authority, thronged to

the altars to pray for the eternal salvation of their beloved Sovereign,

while the bells of all the churches of Prague, nearly a hundred in

number, tolled. During the short reigns of his successors, the last

Premyslide princes, Bohemia was involved in almost incessant war.

Soon after the extinction of the Premyslide dynasty

[Illustration: THE HRADCANY AND OTTOKAR TOWERS]

(1306), John of Luxemburg, son of the German Emperor Henry VII., became

King of Bohemia (in 1310). His adventurous reign concerns the annals of

Prague but very little. A Sovereign who declared that 'Paris was the

most chivalrous town in the world, and that he only wished to live

there,' naturally neglected his Bohemian capital. The Bohemians

complained that his short visits to Prague were only made for the

purpose of obtaining financial aid from the Estates of Bohemia. His

incessant campaigns, that extended from Lithuania and Hungary to Italy

and France, indeed involved him in constant financial difficulties. It

is characteristic of the knight-errant King that he seriously

contemplated re-establishing at Prague the round-table of King Arthur.

He invited all the most famous knights in Europe to that city in 1319;

nobody, however, appears to have responded to his call.

After King John's death on the battlefield of Crécy, his son Charles IV.

(or I. as King of Bohemia) became his successor. Differing in most

respects from his father, he was a devoted lover of Prague, and may

almost be considered a second founder of the city. The districts of

Prague, the Malá Strana and the Staré Mesto, that were already enclosed

by walls, had become insufficient to shelter the ever-increasing

population. Charles therefore decided on building a new city on the

right bank of the Vltava. The old chronicler, Benes of Weitmil, tells us

that 'in the year of the Lord MCCCXLVIII., on the day of St. Marc, our

Lord Charles, King of the Romans and of Bohemia, laid the first stone,

and founded the new city of Prague, building a very strong wall with

ramparts and high towers extending from the Castle of Vysehrad to Poric.

The Vysehrad Hill also he surrounded with a wall and very strong towers,

and the whole work was carried out within two years. And he also

ordered that gardens and vineyards should be planted around the city of

Prague.' It is interesting to note in connection with this statement of

the old chronicler that Dr. Tomek also tells us that during the reign of

Charles many citizens bought land outside the town and established

vineyards there.

The new town received great privileges from Charles, and the foundation

of the University, which contributed largely to increasing the

population of the town, also had a very favourable effect on the new

community. The 'new town,' the limits of which were soon extended,

enjoyed the rank of a royal town, a name given to those cities only that

had been awarded special privileges by the Bohemian Kings.

[Illustration: CHARLES IV., FROM TRIFORIUM OF ST. VITUS]

Charles had, while temporary ruler of Bohemia during the absence of his

father, succeeded in persuading the Papal See to raise the bishopric of

Prague to an archbishopric. It was through his influence also that his

friend Ernest of Pardubic, a member of one of the oldest noble families

of Bohemia, was chosen as first Archbishop of Prague.

It was on Ernest also that Charles conferred the dignity of being the

first Chancellor of the newly-founded University of Prague. That

foundation is, as regards the annals of the world, the most important

event in the history of Prague. That a movement in favour of Church

reform should originate here at a time when Geneva and Wittenberg were

unknown as centres of theological strife was only rendered possible by

the fact that Prague had become the site of one of the then very scanty

universities.

At the meeting of the Estates at Prague in 1348 Charles made the

following statement: 'One of our greatest endeavours is that Bohemia our

kingdom, for which we feel greater affection than for any of our other

lands, should, through our action, be adorned by a great number of

learned men; thus will the faithful inhabitants of that kingdom, who

incessantly thirst for the fruits of learning, be no longer obliged to

beg for foreign alms, rather will they find a table prepared for them in

their own kingdom; thus will the natural sagacity of their minds move

them to become cultured by the possession of knowledge.' Charles

concluded by informing the assembly that he had resolved to found the

University of Prague.

Faithful to his predilection for France, Charles modelled his

regulations for the new University entirely on those of the University

of Paris. The students were divided into 'nations' according to their

nationality. In Prague we find the Bohemian, Polish, Bavarian and Saxon

'nations'; each of these separately elected members to the general

council of the University.

The new foundation seems to have been very successful from the first.

Benes of Weitmil writes: 'The University' (studium) 'became so great

that nothing equal to it existed in all Germany; and students came there

from all parts--from England, France, Lombardy, Poland, and all the

surrounding countries, sons of nobles and princes, and prelates of the

Church from all parts of the world.'

No special building seems at first to have been erected for the

University. Many professors delivered their lectures at their own

apartments, while of the five professors of the theological faculty one

lectured in St. Vitus's Cathedral, the other four, all monks, in the

monasteries to which they belonged. The lectures were at first always

delivered in Latin, and it is, therefore, equally incorrect to maintain

that the Prague University was at its beginning a genuinely German one

as to say that it had, from the origin, a really

Bohemian--national--character.

In the last years of his life Charles caused several colleges to be

built for the benefit of the students. The first of these colleges was

founded when Charles bought the 'house of the Jew Lazarus in the old

town,' which afforded a dwelling-place for twelve professors. Charles

also gave a library to the newly-founded college. During the reign of

his son this, the most important of these foundations, was transferred

to the building known as the 'Carolinum,' which henceforth became the

centre of the University.

Everything connected with the University was to Charles of the greatest

interest, and the Sovereign was often present at the 'disputations'

which, according to the mediæval custom, took place there.

Charles was also the founder of a confraternity or guild of artists, of

which painters, sculptors, wood-carvers and goldsmiths were members, and

which, as Palacky says, took the place of a modern academy of arts.

Charles--who, as his very curious Latin memoirs prove--was a very devout

Christian, was a great church builder. He rebuilt and enlarged St.

Vitus's Cathedral, and among his many ecclesiastical constructions the

Karlov and the Church and Monastery of Emaus may be mentioned.

The great prosperity that Bohemia and Prague in particular enjoyed

during the reign of Charles produced a tendency to luxury, and had a

somewhat harmful influence on the morality of the people and of the

wealthy clergy in particular. Thence arose a strong and general demand

for Church reform which

[Illustration: THE GOTHIC PROJECTION, CAROLINUM]

afterwards culminated in Hus. It would be very tempting to refer here to

the forerunners of Hus who lived during the reign of Charles, but here,

as everywhere, the need of compression confronts me. Yet a short mention

should be made of Conrad Waldhauser and Milic of Kromerize. The former,

an Austrian by birth, was called to Prague in 1358 by Charles, and

preached at several churches there, but principally at the Tyn Church,

where he became rector about the year 1360. Though he generally preached

in German, his sermons, containing eloquent denunciations of the

immorality and luxury of the times, greatly impressed the Praguers, even

the vast Tyn Church occasionally became insufficient to contain his

audience, and he sometimes preached in the streets and market-places. He

strongly inveighed against the immorality and extravagance of the

citizens of Prague, and the result of his preaching was very striking.

We read that the women of Prague discarded the jewelry to which they

were accustomed, their precious veils, their dresses trimmed with gold

and pearls, and adopted simple clothing; usury ceased, and many who had

formerly committed that sin declared themselves ready to compensate

their former victims. Many citizens who had led an immoral life did

public penance, and henceforth gave a good example to others.

As was perhaps inevitable, the great success obtained by Waldhauser was

resented by other preachers at Prague. This feeling became more intense

when Waldhauser attacked the mendicant friars. In 1364 the Dominican

monks accused him of heresy, and brought two points in which, they said,

his teaching was contrary to the Church, before Archbishop Ernest.

Waldhauser lost no time in presenting his defence, and when the

Archbishop appointed day and hour, when anyone who had any grievance

against Conrad might appear before the Archiepiscopal Court, no accuser

came forth.

This success seems to have encouraged Waldhauser to continue his

denunciations of the corruption of the clergy. He was again accused,

both by the Dominican and Augustine friars. The latter especially

accused him of apostasy. Waldhauser defended himself in a Latin

_Apologia_, which has been preserved. Its tone allows us to infer that

his attacks against the immorality of the monks must have been very

violent. It is a proof of the liberal mind of Charles, who has by German

writers often been accused of undue subservience to the Church of Rome,

that Waldhauser none the less retained his office as rector of the Tyn

Church up to his death.

Yet greater was the fervour of Milic, who, in 1369, succeeded Waldhauser

as rector of the Tyn Church. Milic had early in life held important

offices at the Court of Charles. A canon of the Cathedral of Prague, he

had also been appointed Vice-Chancellor of the Court, and had for some

time in that capacity accompanied Charles during his travels. The desire

for Church reform and a return to the primitive Church, then so

prevalent in Bohemia, induced Milic to renounce all his honours and to

seek refuge in poverty. After having acted as curate for some time in a

poor village, Milic returned to Prague, where his sermons, preached in

the Church of St. Nicholas in the Malá Strana, soon attracted general

attention. Following in the steps of Waldhauser, he eloquently denounced

the corruption of his times; but he seems to have strayed further from

the doctrine of Rome than Waldhauser had done. Incessant study of the

Apocalypse, and the horror which the evil ways of his day inspired in

him, appear to have ripened in his mind the idea that the end of the

world was approaching. He gave expression to his views not only in his

sermons, but also in a written work, entitled, _Libellus de

Antechristo_. The monks of Prague, his enemies, as they had been those

of Waldhauser, denounced him to the Papal See, and Milic started for

Rome, where, in the absence of Pope Urban, he was imprisoned. After the

Pontiff's arrival an interview between him and Milic took place, when

Urban, recognising the purity of his motives, caused him to be

liberated, and allowed him to return to Prague. Through the favour of

Charles he here obtained the rectorship of the Tyn Church, as already

mentioned. Coming from a thoroughly Slavic part of Moravia, Milic was

well acquainted with the national language, and, indeed, only learnt

German late in life. His sermons, therefore, attracted yet more

attention than those of his predecessor. Milic did not limit himself to

invectives against vice, but endeavoured by his own activity to reform

the people of Prague. Through his influence the ill-famed buildings

known as Benatky (Venice) were destroyed and a building erected on the

spot to which the name of 'Jerusalem' was given, the first instance of

the adoption of biblical names, that afterwards became so frequent in

Bohemia. The fallen women who had formerly dwelt at Benatky now lived as

penitents at 'Jerusalem,' and were the object of Milic's particular

care.

At the end of his life Milic again incurred the hostility of the

ecclesiastical authorities. He repaired to the Papal Court at Avignon in

1374, but died (there) before the ecclesiastical court before which his

case was brought and had pronounced judgment. His memory was long held

in reverence by the Bohemians.[9]

The reign of Charles I. marks so important a step in the development of

Prague that it may be interesting to note here the various divisions of

the city such as they existed during his reign, and after he had so

greatly enlarged the city. Prague then consisted of three 'royal'

cities, that is to say, communities that had received special privileges

from the Sovereign. They were the old town (Staré Mesto), new town (Nové

Mesto), both on the right bank of the Vltava, and the Malá Strana (small

quarter), on the left bank of the river. Besides these the community of

Hradcany was under the rule of the burgrave of the Prague castle, and

that of Vysehrad under that of the abbot of the monastery of that name.

All these and some minor communities enjoyed special privileges, greater

in some, smaller in other cases. Charles, however, in the last year of

his life, united for a time the two royal cities on the right bank of

the river.

The Story of Prague · 第 1 / 9 章