To orisons, the midnight bell
Had toll’d each silent inmate from his cell;
The hour was come to muse or pray,
Or work mysterious rites that shun the day:
My steps some whis’pring influence led,
Up to yon pine-clad mountain’s gloomy head:
Hollow and deep the gust did blow,
And torrents dash’d into the vales below.
At length the toilsome height attain’d,
Quick fled the moon, and sudden stillness reign’d.
As fearful turn’d my searching eye,
Glanc’d near a shadowy form, and fleeted by;
Anon, before me full it stood:
A saintly figure, pale, in pensive mood.
Damp horror thrill’d me till he spoke,
And accents faint the charm bound silence broke:
“Long, trav’ller! ere this region near,
Say, did not whisp’rings strange arrest thine ear?
My summons ’twas to bid thee come,
Where sole the friend of Nature loves to roam.
Ages long past, this drear abode
To solitude I sanctified, and God:
’Twas here, by love of Wisdom brought,
Her truest lore, Self-knowledge, first I sought;
Devoted here my worldly wealth,
To win my chosen sons immortal health.
Midst these dun woods, and mountains steep,
Midst the wild horrors of yon desert deep,
Midst yawning caverns, wat’ry dells,
Midst long, sequestered aisles, and peaceful cells,
No passions fell distract the mind,
To Nature, Silence, and Herself consign’d.
In these still mansions who shall bide,
’Tis mine, with Heaven’s appointment, to decide;
But, hither, I invite not all:
Some want the will to come, and more the call;
But all, mark well my parting voice!
Led, or by chance, necessity, or choice
(Ah! with our Genius dread to sport),
Sage lessons here may learn of high import.
Know! Silence is the nurse of Truth;
Know! Temperance long retards the flight of Youth
Learn here, how penitence and pray’r
Man’s fallen race for happier worlds prepare;
Learn mild demeanour, void of art,
And bear, amidst the world, the hermit’s heart;
Fix, trav’ller! deep this heaven-taught lore:
Know Bruno brings it, and returns no more.”
(Half sighed, half smiled his long farewell),
He turn’d, and vanish’d in the bright’ning dell.
My imagination was too much disturbed, and my spirits far too active, to
allow me any rest for some time, and I had not long been quieted by
sleep, when I was suddenly awakened by a furious blast, that drove open
my casement, and let in the roar of the tempest, for the night was
troubled. In the intervals of the storm, in those moments when the winds
seemed to pause, the faint sounds of the choir stole upon my ear; but
were swallowed up the next instant by the redoubled fury of the gust,
which was still increased by the roar of the waters.
I started from my bed, closed the casement, and composed myself as well
as I was able; but no sooner had the sunbeams entered my window, than I
arose, and gladly leaving my cell, hastened to the same knoll where I had
stood the night before. The storm was dissipated, and the pure morning
air delightfully refreshing; every tree, every shrub, glistened with dew.
A gentle wind breathed upon the woods, and waved the fir-trees on the
cliffs, which, free from clouds, rose distinctly into the clear blue sky.
I strayed from the knoll into the valley between the steeps of wood and
the turrets of the convent, and passed the different buildings, destined
for the manufacture of the articles necessary to the fathers; for nothing
is worn or used within this inclosure which comes from the profane world.
Traversing the meadows and a succession of little dells, where I was so
lately bewildered, I came to a bridge thrown over the torrent, which I
crossed; and here followed a slight path that brought me to an eminence,
covered with a hanging wood of beach-trees feathered to the ground, from
whence I looked down the narrow pass towards Grenoble. Perceiving a
smoke to arise from the groves which nodded over the eminence, I climbed
up a rocky steep, and, after struggling through a thicket of shrubs,
entered a smooth, sloping lawn, framed in by woody precipices; at one
extremity of which I discovered the cottage, whose smoke had directed me
to this sequestered spot; and, at the other, a numerous group of cattle,
lying under the shade of some beech-trees, whilst several friars, with
long beards and russet garments, were employed in milking them.
The luxuriant foliage of the woods, clinging round the steeps that
skirted the lawn; its gay, sunny exposition; the groups of sleek, dappled
cows, and the odd employment of the friars, so little consonant with
their venerable beards, formed a picturesque and certainly very singular
spectacle. I, who had been accustomed to behold “milk-maids singing
blithe,” and tripping lightly along with their pails, was not a little
surprised at the silent gravity with which these figures shifted their
trivets from cow to cow; and it was curious to see with what adroitness
they performed their functions, managing their long beards with a
facility and cleanliness equally admirable.
I watched all their movements for some time, concealed by the trees,
before I made myself visible; but no sooner did I appear on the lawn,
than one of the friars quitted his trivet, very methodically set down his
pail, and coming towards me with an open, smiling countenance, desired me
to refresh myself with some bread and milk. A second, observing what was
going forward, was resolved not to be exceeded in an hospitable act, and,
quitting his pail too, hastened into the woods whence he returned in a
few minutes with some strawberries, very neatly enveloped in fresh
leaves. These hospitable, milking fathers, next invited me to the
cottage, whither I declined going, as I preferred the shade of the
beeches; so, throwing myself on the dry aromatic herbage, I enjoyed the
pastoral character of the scene with all possible glee.
Not a cloud darkened the heavens; every object smiled; innumerable gaudy
flies glanced in the sunbeams that played in a clear spring by the
cottage; I saw with pleasure the sultry glow of the distant cliffs and
forests, whilst indolently reclined in the shade, listening to the summer
hum; one hour passed after another neglected away, during my repose in
this most delightful of valleys. The cattle were all slunk into the
recesses of the wood, and were drinking at the streams which flow along
their shades, before I could prevail on myself to quit the turf and the
beech trees. Never shall I cease regretting the peaceful moments I spent
in Valombré, as never perhaps, were I even to return to it, may so many
circumstances unite to render it pleasing.
When I returned unwillingly to the convent, the only topic on which I
could converse was the charms of Valombré; but notwithstanding the
indifference with which I now regarded the prospects that surrounded the
monastery, I could not disdain an offer made by one of the friars, of
conducting me to the summit of the highest peak in the desert.
Pretty late in the afternoon I set out with my guide, and, following his
steps through many forests of pine, and wild apertures among them,
strewed with fragments, arrived at a chapel, built on a mossy rock, and
dedicated to St. Bruno.
Having once more drunk of the spring that issues from the rock on which
this edifice is raised, I moved forward, keeping my eyes fixed on a lofty
green mountain, whence rises a vast cliff, spiring up to a surprising
elevation; and which (owing to the sun’s reflection on a transparent mist
hovering around it) was tinged with a pale visionary light. This object
was the goal to which I aspired; and redoubling my activity, I made the
best of my way over rude ledges of rocks, and crumbled fragments of the
mountain interspersed with firs, till I came to the green steeps I had
surveyed at a distance.
These I ascended with some difficulty, and, leaving a few scattered
beech-trees behind, in full leaf, shortly bid adieu to summer, and
entered the regions of spring; for, as I approached that part of the
mountain next the summit, the trees, which I found there rooted in the
crevices, were but just beginning to unfold their leaves, and every spot
of the greensward was covered with cowslips and violets.
After taking a few moments’ repose, my guide prepared to clamber amongst
the rocks, and I followed him with as much alertness as I was able, till
laying hold of the trunk of a withered pine, we sprang upon a small level
space, where I seated myself, and beheld far beneath me the vast desert
and dreary solitudes, amongst which appeared, thinly scattered, the green
meadows and hanging lawns. The eye next overlooking the barrier of
mountains, ranged through immense tracts of distant countries; the plains
where Lyons is situated; the woodlands and lakes of Savoy; amongst which
that of Bourget was near enough to discover its beauties, all glowing
with the warm haze of the setting sun.
My situation was too dizzy to allow a long survey; so turning my eyes
from the terrific precipice, I gladly beheld an opening in the rocks,
through which we passed into a little irregular glen of the smoothest
greensward, closed in on one side by the great peak, and on the others by
a ridge of sharp pinnacles, which crown the range of white cliffs I had
so much admired the night before, when brightened by the moon.
The singular situation of this romantic spot invited me to remain in it
till the sun was about to sink on the horizon: during which time I
visited every little cave delved in the ridges of rock, and gathered
large sprigs of the mezereon and rhododendron in full bloom, which, with
a surprising variety of other plants, carpeted this lovely glen. A
luxuriant vegetation,
“That on the green turf suck’d the honey’d showers,
And purpled all the ground with vernal flow’rs.”
My guide, perceiving I was ready to mount still higher, told me it would
be in vain, as the beds of snow that lie eternally in some fissures of
the mountain, must necessarily impede my progress; but, finding I was
very unwilling to abandon the enterprise, he showed me a few notches in
the peak, by which we might ascend, though not without danger. This
prospect rather abated my courage, and the wind rising, drove several
thick clouds round the bottom of the peak, which increasing every minute,
shortly screened the green mountain and all the forest from our sight. A
sea of vapours soon undulated beneath my feet, and lightning began to
flash from a dark angry cloud, that hung over the valleys, and deluged
them with storms, whilst I was securely standing under the clear expanse
of ether.
But the hour did not admit of my remaining long in this proud station; so
descending, I was soon obliged to pass through the vapours, and,
carefully following my guide (for a false step might have caused my
destruction), wound amongst the declivities, till we left the peak
behind, and just as we reached the green mountain, which was moistened
with the late storm, the clouds fleeted and the evening recovered its
serenity.
Leaving the chapel of St. Bruno on the right, we entered the woods, and
soon emerged from them into a large pasture, under the grand amphitheatre
of mountains, having a gentle ascent before us, beyond which appeared the
neat blue roofs and glittering spires of the convent, where we arrived as
the moon was beginning to assume her empire.
I need not say I rested well after the interesting fatigues of the day.
The next morning, early, I quitted my kind hosts with great reluctance.
The Coadjutor and two other fathers accompanied me to the outward gate,
and there within the solemn circle of the desert bestowed on me their
benediction.
It seemed indeed to come from their hearts, nor would they leave me till
I was a hundred paces from the convent; and then, laying their hands on
their breasts, declared that if ever I was disgusted with the world, here
was an asylum.
I was in a melancholy mood when I traced back all the windings of my
road, and when I found myself beyond the last gate, in the midst of the
wide world again, it increased.
We returned to Les Echelles; from thence to Chamberry, and, instead of
going through Aix, passed by Amecy; but nothing in all the route engaged
my attention, nor had I any pleasing sensations till I beheld the glassy
lake of Geneva, and its lovely environs.
I rejoiced then because I knew of a retirement on its banks where I could
sit and think of Valombré.