LETTER I.

_June_ 19_th_, 1780.—Shall I tell you my dreams?—To give an account of my

time is doing, I assure you, but little better. Never did there exist a

more ideal being. A frequent mist hovers before my eyes, and, through

its medium, I see objects so faint and hazy, that both their colours and

forms are apt to delude me. This is a rare confession, say the wise, for

a traveller to make: pretty accounts will such a one give of outlandish

countries: his correspondents must reap great benefit, no doubt, from

such purblind observations. But stop, my good friends; patience a

moment!—I really have not the vanity of pretending to make a single

remark, during the whole of my journey: if — be contented with my

visionary way of gazing, I am perfectly pleased; and shall write away as

freely as Mr. A., Mr. B., Mr. C., and a million others whose letters are

the admiration of the politest circles.

All through Kent did I doze as usual; now and then I opened my eyes to

take in an idea or two of the green, woody country through which I was

passing; then closed them again; transported myself back to my native

hills; thought I led a choir of those I loved best through their shades;

and was happy in the arms of illusion. The sun set before I recovered my

senses enough to discover plainly the variegated slopes near Canterbury,

waving with slender birch-trees, and gilt with a profusion of broom. I

thought myself still in my beloved solitude, but missed the companions of

my slumbers. Where are they?—Behind yon blue hills, perhaps, or t’other

side of that thick forest. My fancy was travelling after these

deserters, till we reached the town; vile enough o’ conscience, and fit

only to be passed in one’s sleep. The moment after I got out of the

carriage, brought me to the cathedral; an old haunt of mine. I had

always venerated its lofty pillars, dim aisles, and mysterious arches.

Last night they were more solemn than ever, and echoed no other sound

than my steps. I strayed about the choir and chapels, till they grew so

dark and dismal, that I was half inclined to be frightened; looked over

my shoulder; thought of spectres that have an awkward trick of syllabling

men’s names in dreary places; and fancied a sepulchral voice exclaiming:

“Worship my toe at Ghent; my ribs at Florence; my skull at Bologna,

Sienna, and Rome. Beware how you neglect this order; for my bones, as

well as my spirit, have the miraculous property of being here, there, and

everywhere.” These injunctions, you may suppose, were received in a

becoming manner, and noted all down in my pocket-book by inspiration (for

I could not see), and hurrying into the open air, I was whirled away in

the dark to Margate. Don’t ask what were my dreams thither:—nothing but

horrors, deep-vaulted tombs, and pale, though lovely figures, extended

upon them; shrill blasts that sung in my ears, and filled me with

sadness, and the recollection of happy hours, fleeting away, perhaps for

ever! I was not sorry, when the bustle of our coming-in dispelled these

phantoms. The change, however, in point of scenery was not calculated to

dissipate my gloom; for the first object in this world that presented

itself, was a vast expanse of sea, just visible by the gleamings of the

moon, bathed in watery clouds; a chill air ruffled the waves. I went to

shiver a few melancholy moments on the shore. How often did I try to

wish away the reality of my separation from those I love, and attempt to

persuade myself it was but a dream!

This morning I found myself more cheerfully disposed, by the queer Dutch

faces with short pipes and ginger-bread complexions that came smirking

and scraping to get us on board their respective vessels; but, as I had a

ship engaged for me before, their invitations were all in vain. The wind

blows fair; and, should it continue of the same mind a few hours longer,

we shall have no cause to complain of our passage. Adieu! Think of me

sometimes. If you write immediately, I shall receive your letter at the

Hague.

It is a bright sunny evening: the sea reflects a thousand glowing

colours, and, in a minute or two, I shall be gliding on its surface.

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