is to be seen a great way off by reason of its Situation in the middle of
a great Plain, so that from the Apartments of the second Story one
discovers a vast Tract of Country, and an infinite number of Rural
Beauties that are in the Neighbourhood of _Munich_. _Mary-Adelaide de
Savoy_ (Mother to _Maximilian-Emanuel_) who was extremely fond of the Arts
and Sciences, and knew them perfectly well, was the Person who laid the
Foundations of that Castle. The Man that she employ'd to build it was an
_Italian_ Architect whom she sent for out of _Italy_ for the purpose. But
all this Palace consisted only of one great Pavilion. _Maximilian-Emanuel_
thinking the Castle too small, caused several Mansions to be added to it,
together with fine Stables and grand Gardens; in short, he put the whole
into that magnificent Condition we see it in at this day. His most serene
Electoral Highness lets the Pavilion stand in pure respect to the Memory
of his Mother who built it, but 'tis pity he does; for 'tis much higher
than the rest of the Edifice, and is no good Ornament to the main
Building. In order to give you a more perfect Idea of this House, I will
tell you that it looks towards a great and magnificent Canal terminated at
each end by a spacious Basin adorn'd with Water-works and double Rows of
Trees on each side which form the Avenues. We enter into the Castle by an
Ascent of Marble Steps: The first Room we come to is a very great high
Salon adorn'd with Architecture of Plaister of _Paris_ very well executed.
From each side of this Salon there is a Passage into several Apartments of
which I shall not stop to give you the Detail, because I don't think it in
my power to convey a suitable Idea to you of the Richness of the
Furniture, and all the fine things that are in it. Imagine only that the
late Elector who had an exquisite Taste, and a noble Soul, spar'd no Cost
to adorn these Apartments. I pass to the Gardens which one enters from the
Great Hall by a Descent of Marble Steps. The first thing that strikes the
Eye is a Parterre of a vast Extent, at the Entrance of which there is a
great Bason ornamented with a Group of Figures of mill'd Lead gilt with
Water-Gold representing _Flora_ receiving Flowers from _Nymphs_ and
_Cupids_. At the end of the Parterre there is one of the most agreeable
Woods in the World, which is cut by three Walks in form of a Goose's Foot.
The middlemost fronts the great Pavilion of the Castle, and has a large
Canal in the middle of it of which one can't see the end: 'Tis terminated
by a fine Cascade form'd by several Blocks of Marble, and adorn'd with
fine Statues. The second Walk on the right hand leads one to the Mall
which forms a Semi-Circle, and is one of the finest and longest I ever
saw. At the Entrance of this Mall there is a Pavilion call'd _Pagodebourg_
(the _Castle of the Pagode_;) 'tis two Stories high, and built in form of
the _Pagodes_ Temples. I believe there never was any thing prettier. All
the Furniture of this little Palace is _Indian_, of a charming Contrivance
and Elegancy; and the whole is so well laid out that notwithstanding the
smallness of the House, the Elector has every Convenience in it that can
be desir'd. Over-against _Pagodebourg_ on the other side of the Canal in
the third Walk is _Badenbourg_ (the _Castle of Baths_) which is a more
considerable Building, and has all the Beauty of the Modern Bagnios. The
Baths are spacious and lin'd with Marble. There is an Apartment consisting
of several Pieces adorned with Stucco, and Pictures representing _Venus_
in the Bath, _Diana_ in the Water with her Nymphs, and the other Subjects
of the Fable. The whole Apartment glitters with Gold, and the Furniture of
it is rich, and of a charming Fancy. This beautiful House is surrounded
with fine Pieces of Water adorned with Cascades and Statues. These Baths
wou'd most certainly deserve a particular Description, and I am angry with
myself for not being able to give it.
'Tis certain that next to the Gardens of _Versailles_, there is none so
magnificent as those of _Nymphenbourg_; which is a Place that Art and
Nature seem to have joined their Forces in order to render noble and
agreeable.
The Castle of _Schleisheim_ is a more regular Building than that of
_Nymphenbourg_, and makes so grand an Appearance that I don't know any
House in _Germany_ that can compare with it. The great Stair-Case and the
Salon in the large Apartment are the only Pieces in their kind. They are
fac'd with Marble, and painted in a most correct and beautiful manner.
_Taco_, _Furstenriet_ and _Starenberg_ are Houses fit for the Solacement
of a Great Prince, and will be Testimonies to Posterity of the Elector
_Maximilian-Emanuel_'s grand and happy Taste.
Of all the Elector's Houses _Nymphenbourg_ is that where the Court resides
most. It is as well a Hunting-House as a Pleasure-House, by reason of a
Park in the Neighbourhood which is eight Leagues in compass, and cut out
into a great number of fine long Roads. Here the Elector comes to rouze
the Stag; and there is a little Park adjoining to the Gardens, which, as
well as the adjacent Fields, abounds with Pheasants, Partridges, and all
other Game of that sort.
When the Court is at _Nymphenbourg_ the Electress has a Drawing-Room there
three times a Week where there is Gaming, and when that is over the Ladies
sup with their Electoral Highnesses, who sometimes admit Gentlemen of
their Court to their Table, but commonly all Foreigners. They who prefer
taking the Air to Gaming, find open Calashes every Evening drawn by two
Horses, at the bottom of the Steps on the side of the Garden: A Gentleman
drives the Calash, two Ladies ride in it, and a Gentleman stands behind.
And such as prefer the Water find very neat Gondolas finely gilt upon the
Canal at their Service; so that there is no want of any thing to add to
the Pleasures of all sorts in this inchanting Place.
Were I to enumerate to you all the various Pleasures of this Court I
should never have done. For the present I shall confine myself to these
already mentioned. I am resolved to set out in three or four days for
_Stutgard_. I shall lie at _Augsbourg_, and at _Ulm_. A Frost which has
held for a Month without ceasing has made the Roads so hard that I hope I
shall roll along finely. I expect to hear from you at _Stutgard_. Pray
take care that I be not disappointed, and believe that I am very
sincerely, _&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER XV.
_SIR_, _Stutgard, Jan. 14, 1730._
There is nothing remarkable between _Munich_ and _Augsbourg_ except it be
the fine Abbey of FURSTENFELDT, which is in possession of the _Bernardin_
Fryars. It was founded by _Lewis the Severe_ Duke of _Bavaria_ to attone
for his Wickedness in putting _Joan_ of _Brabant_ his Wife unjustly to
death. The History of _Bavaria_ relates the Fact thus: _Joan_ was a very
beautiful Princess. Her Husband who was doatingly fond of her being
obliged to take a Journey, put her under the Guard of one of his Aunts.
While he was gone _Joan_ wrote frequently to her Husband, and sometimes to
his Prime Minister and Favourite. One day she put her Letters into the
hands of a Domestic, charging him to deliver them as they were directed;
but the Man made a Mistake, and gave the Letter which was for the Duke to
his Favourite, and that which was for the Minister to the Duke. _Lewis_
thought that his Wife's Style was too obliging to a Subject, and was even
mad with Jealousy. He first kill'd his Favourite, and then taking horse
posted to _Donawert_ where his Wife was. He came to the Castle in the
Night-time, murder'd the Porter with his own hand, put his Aunt and all
with whom he had left his Wife in charge to Death; and then like another
_Herod_, caused the unfortunate _Joan_ to be beheaded. The Night after
this barbarous Action, the Heirs of _Lewis_'s Head turn'd gray, tho' he
was but twenty-eight Years old; which Accident made him sensible of his
Guilt and of the Innocence of his Wife. As his Barbarity was great, so was
his Repentance. He went on foot to _Rome_ to beg the Pope's Absolution for
his Sins, and obtain'd it on condition that he wou'd cause a Church to be
built, and found a Monastery in his Dominions. _Lewis_ returning from
_Rome_ founded the Abbey at _Furstenfeldt_. The first Establishment was
only for eight Fryars; but the Piety of the Princes of _Bavaria_ having
wrought upon them to bestow their Favours upon this House, it now
maintains thirty Fryars and an Abbot, whom the Monks have the Prerogative
to chuse out of their own Body. These good Fathers are actually erecting a
very stately Church, and they enjoy all the Conveniences of Life.
The Country between _Munich_ and _Augsbourg_ is level and intermix'd with
Woods and Plains. AUGSBOURG which is a Bishop's See, and an Imperial City,
is the Capital of _Swabia_, and one of the biggest and handsomest Towns in
_Germany_. A small Branch of the _Leck_ passes thro' it, and supplies it
with plenty of Water. The Streets of _Augsbourg_ are broad, strait and
lightsome; the Houses well built, and many of 'em full of Paintings. The
Inhabitants look upon _Augustus_ to be the Founder of their City. 'Tis
true that Emperor sent a Colony thither, but the Town was founded before.
It is not said what Name it went by before the Name of _Augusta
Vindelicorum_ was given it to distinguish it from the other Towns that
bore the Name of _Augusta_. The clearing up of this difficulty is what I
shall leave to the Antiquarians, and confine my self to the Transactions
at _Augsbourg_ for about two hundred Years past. What will render this
City for ever famous is the Confession of Faith which the Protestant
Princes presented here to the Emperor _Charles_ V. in the year 1530. Tho'
the Protestants were at that time very powerful in _Augsbourg_ they cou'd
not keep their ground, for they were drove out by the _Bavarians_; but
_Gustavus Adolphus_ restored them in 1632, since which time they have kept
their Footing there, and share the Government with the Roman Catholics. In
1687, the Emperor, _Spain_, the United Provinces, and the Electors of
_Saxony_, _Brandenbourg_, and the Palatinate concluded that famous League
at _Augsbourg_ against _Lewis_ XIV. who was beginning to inforce the Claim
of the Duchess of _Orleans_ his Sister-in-law to the Succession of the
Elector Palatine _Charles-Lewis_, who was that Princess's Brother. In
1690, _Joseph_ Archduke of _Austria_ King of _Hungary_, the eldest Son of
the Emperor _Leopold_, was consecrated and crown'd King of the _Romans_ at
_Augsbourg_, at which Ceremony the Emperor, the Empress, the Electors of
_Mentz_, _Cologn_, _Triers_, _Bavaria_, and the Palatinate were personally
present.
In 1703, the Elector _Maximilian_ of _Bavaria_, made himself Master of
_Augsbourg_ in one Week's time. This City had demanded and obtained a
Neutrality, but having afterwards received an Imperial Garrison the
Elector made use of that Pretence to lay Siege to it. He caused the
Fortifications to be demolish'd, foreseeing, no doubt, that he should not
be able to keep the Place. _Augsbourg_ was set free again by the Battle of
_Hochstet_, and still enjoys its Freedom under its own Magistrates, the
Bishop having no Authority in the City as to Temporals. The present Bishop
is of the Family of _Neubourg_, and Brother to the Elector Palatine. This
Prince has the same Goodness of Temper which is so natural to all his
Family. As his Bishoprick is not one of the most considerable in
_Germany_, so his Court is none of the biggest, but his Houshold is well
regulated, and every thing conducted in it with Order and Splendor.
The Chapter of the Cathedral consists of Persons of Quality who are
oblig'd to make Proof of their Nobility. The Canons have the Prerogative
of chusing their Bishop, who like all the Prelates of _Germany_ is a
Sovereign Prince. He dwells at _Augsbourg_, tho' he ought to reside at
_Dillingen_. The Episcopal Palace is old, and not very commodious: It
joins to the Cathedral, which is a _Gothic_ gloomy unwieldy Fabric, but
its Ornaments are very rich.
The most considerable Building is the Town-house, a very substantial Pile
built all of Freestone except the Portico, which is of Marble. The Rooms
are very fine, and the great Hall especially is to the last degree
magnificent. The Walls are cover'd with Painting, being such Emblems and
Devices as have relation to the Government. Nothing can be more beautiful
than the Cieling which consists all of Compartments whose Frames are
carv'd and gilt in an extraordinary manner, the whole enrich'd with
Pictures and other Ornaments perfectly well dispos'd.
Before the Town-house there's a very stately Fountain, where, among other
fine Figures of Brass, the Statue of _Augustus_ which is represented in a
most noble Attitude is highly esteem'd.
The City of _Augsbourg_ is in my Opinion something like _Antwerp_ with
regard to the Spaciousness of the Streets and the Substantialness of its
Buildings; and formerly when the _Venetians_ were Masters of all the
Commerce, it resembled it in Trade; for _Augsbourg_ was then the Staple
for Merchandize, which was from thence transported to a great part of
_Europe_. But since _London_ and _Amsterdam_ are become the Warehouses of
the whole World, and the Commerce of _Venice_ decays, the greatest Trade
of _Augsbourg_ consists in Goldsmith's Wares, with which this City
furnishes _Germany_, _Poland_, and in general almost all the North. These
Wares are much cheaper here than elsewhere, and when the Patterns are
furnish'd People are well serv'd. Notwithstanding the Decay of its
Commerce there are several very rich Families; but whether any can do what
_Fugger_ did to the Emperor _Charles_ V. is a Question. That Monarch
passing thro' _Augsbourg_ lodg'd at _Fugger_'s House, who entertain'd him
like an Emperor. The Fewel he burnt in every Chimney was Cedar, and after
the Repast, which was extraordinary sumptuous, _Fugger_ took a Bond for a
very considerable Sum which the Emperor ow'd him, and threw it into the
Fire.
The Nobility assemble commonly every Evening at the _Three Kings_ Inn
where I quarter. There's a very fine Hall well lighted, where they game,
club for a Supper, and after Supper dance. Be not scandaliz'd that the
Nobility have their Assembly at an Inn, it being one of the best Houses in
_Germany_ and the most superb Inn in _Europe_. There's very good
Attendance. I have supp'd at it twice, and one cannot be better
accommodated in any House whatsoever.
From _Augsbourg_ I came to ULM another Imperial City. Tho' all the Country
is even, yet 'tis very tiresome to Travellers because of the Pavement of
the Causeys; but Thanks to the Snow which has levell'd the Ways, I have
not been much incommoded; tho' on the other hand I had like to have been
lost in the Snow, such a quantity of it having fallen for two Days that
one could not distinguish the Roads. I found my self at a Post-Stage where
my Guide, tho' he was a Man that had grown grey in the Business of
Postilion upon the same Road, did not know the Way. I was in danger every
Moment of tumbling into some Ditch, when just as we entered a certain
Valley my Postilion sounded a Horn to give notice to any Carriages or
Horses that might happen to meet us to make way, when a Voice from the
Hollow call'd out to the Postilion, _Who's that? Stephen? Oh!_ cry'd the
Postilion, _Is it you, Christopher? God be thank'd that I met with you_!
Then turning towards me, he said with an Air of Satisfaction, _Now you are
out of all Danger, for here's a blind Man that will conduct us to the
Place we are going to_. I thought the Droll jok'd with me, but we had not
gone many Yards farther before I really saw a poor Wretch who could not
see, yet offer'd to be my Guide, and promis'd he wou'd conduct me very
well. I abandon'd my self to him, and he walk'd so fast before my Chaise
that the Horses follow'd him in a gentle Trot till we came safe to the
Stage. There he told me that 'twas fifteen Years ago that he lost his
Sight by the breaking of an Imposthume in his Eyes, after having suffer'd
such horrible Pains for two Months that he bless'd himself for the Loss of
his Sight; so that when I ask'd him if he was not very much concern'd at
it, he said that at first it made him melancholy for some time, but that
he always comforted himself by the Remembrance of the Torture he had
undergone in the Loss of his Sight, and that he thought it were much
better to be blind and to have his Health than to see, and suffer the
Pains that he had endur'd; but that now he was so us'd to his Condition it
gave him no Concern. Indeed, when I ask'd him, if he should not be very
glad to recover his Sight? he said, Yes, if it were possible; but that if
he must undergo the same Pains to recover it as he had felt in the Loss of
it, he had rather by a thousand times continue blind. When I told him of
my Surprize that he should find out the Way better than those who see, he
told me that since he had been blind he came regularly on Sundays and
Saints Days to the Place where we were to hear Mass, and that therefore
the Road was become very familiar to him. He added, that he sometimes
went alone to beg three or four Leagues from his Village, which was a
quarter of a League from the hollow Way where I met with him. I sent the
Man away, after giving him some Relief; and could not but admire the
divine Providence, which tho' it had afflicted the poor Wretch with what
to me seems more terrible than Death, gave him Strength to bear his
Misfortune with Patience.
The City of _Ulm_ is not above half as big as _Augsbourg_, but is much
better fortify'd. The _Danube_ which washes its Walls, becomes navigable
at this Place, and a Boat goes from hence every Week for _Vienna_, which
is a great Ease to People who are not in a Condition to lay out much
Money; for it costs but a _Creutzer_, which is one Penny a _German_ Mile.
Tho' the City of _Ulm_ maintains a very numerous Garison, and is very well
fortify'd, and furnished with a good Arsenal, the Elector _Maximilian_ of
_Bavaria_ took it by Surprize in 1702, it being a Place necessary for him
to secure his Dominions on that side, and to facilitate the Passage of the
_French_ Troops that were to join his Army. General _Thungen_ robb'd him
of this Conquest the 10th of _Sept._ 1704, after about a Week's Siege.
Then it was that _Ulm_ became again subject to its Magistrates who are all
_Lutherans_. The Catholics cannot enjoy Offices, but have several
Churches. This City drives a great Trade in Linnen, but few of the Gentry
live here except the Patricians who are not more sociable than those of
_Nuremberg_ and _Augsbourg_. The Burghers and the Women in particular go
dress'd like those at _Augsbourg_. To see them go to and come from Church
is next kin to seeing a Masquerade, and 'tis certainly one of the most
diverting Sights in this City, where really I did not give my self time to
be tired, for I set out again the very next Day after I came, and arrived
in this Town, where I have now rested my self a couple of Days.
STUTGARD lies in the middle of a Valley surrounded with Vineyards. 'Tis
pretty large, has Streets broad and strait, but the Houses are of Timber.
'Tis the Capital of the Duchy of _Wirtemberg_, and was formerly the
Residence of the Sovereigns of the Country; but _Eberhard-Lewis_ the
present Duke of _Wirtemberg_ established his Seat some Years ago at[116]
_Ludwigsbourg_, a new City and a new Palace of his own building.
The Duke's Castle is an old Structure of Freestone, compos'd of four Piles
of Building, flank'd at each Angle by a Tower. The Walls of it are wash'd
by Ditches which give it the disagreeable Air of a Prison. The Duchess who
is the Duke's Wife, and Sister to the Margrave of _Baden-Dourlach_, has an
Apartment in this Palace. You know that this Princess and her Husband
don't live well together. The Prince[117] about twenty Years ago preferr'd
a Mistress to her[118], who certainly has neither the Beauty, nor the
Merit of the Duchess. The Princess is remarkably patient under the
Indifference of a Husband, and the Contempt of the most haughty Rival that
ever was. The frequent Visits paid her by her only Son are all the Comfort
she has. The Court neglects her, no body dares to go near her, and
whoever pays the Duchess the Respects that are naturally due to her, is
sure to incur the merciless Hatred of the Mistress. I may be able perhaps
to give you a farther Account of this Princess and her Rival when I have
been at _Ludwigsbourg_, whither I propose to go to-morrow, and where I
hope for a Line from you.
_I am_, &c.
[Illustration]
LETTER XVI.
_SIR_, _Ludwigsbourg, Feb. 2, 1730._
The Duke of _Wirtemberg_ is a Prince of a middling Size, and before he
grew so fat was very well shap'd. He is genteel, affable, and
well-belov'd, and few Princes treat their Courtiers with more Familiarity.
He has been one of the best Dancers of his Time. He also sits perfectly
well on horseback, and performs all bodily Exercises with infinite
Gracefulness, and incomparable Dexterity. He takes pleasure sometimes in
driving his own Coaches, and I have seen him drive eight Horses without a
Postilion, and manage them with as much Ease as if there was but one Horse
in the Harness. He is a Prince that loves Magnificence, is generous,
gallant, and amorous. Tho' 'tis above twenty Years that he has kept one
and the same Mistress, he is as passionately fond of her, and gives as
shining Proofs of it as ever. During the last War his most Serene Highness
commanded the army of the Empire on the _Upper Rhine_. He has an only Son
marry'd to _Henrietta_ of _Prussia_, Daughter of the Margrave _Philip_,
Brother to _Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_. This young Prince is called
the hereditary Prince. He is short of Stature, but handsome. He has one of
the best Tempers that can be desir'd in a Sovereign, being humane,
good-natur'd, affable, and civil. It may be said that the Father and the
Son are the two politest Men at the Court of _Wirtemberg_. The Father has
spent several Years in _Holland_, _Lorrain_, _Geneva_, _Turin_, _Italy_
and _France_. When he return'd from his Travels he went and marry'd at
_Berlin_. He has an only Daughter who is very amiable. The hereditary
Prince is vastly fond of Grandeur, Dancing, Plays and Music: He fatigues
himself very much, and commonly rides seven or eight Horses in a Morning.
His tender Constitution and the little Care he takes of it make me
apprehensive he will not live to be an old Man[119].
The hereditary Princess has an Air of Grandeur and Majesty suitable to her
Rank. She is tall and handsome, has a noble Mien, and tho' she is not a
regular Beauty, 'tis certain that she has a very good Look. She is
extremely grave, and does not seem to take a great share in the Pleasures
of the Court. She seems to be most of all taken with Dress, and her
Apparel is not only splendid but well-fancy'd. Her Royal Highness, which
is a Title given her because she is the Daughter of a King's Brother, is
extremely gracious and civil to all Mankind, but particularly to those
whom she knew at the Court of _Prussia_. She does me the honour to
discourse with me sometimes. I find she thinks very justly, and that her
Sentiments are very agreeable to her Birth. This Princess is of the
_Calvinist_ Religion, and she keeps a Chaplain who preaches to her in her
own Apartment; so that now while the Prince _Alexander de Wirtemberg_ is
here, there are three Chapels in the Castles of as many different
Religions.