to whose Rank I ought to have mention'd her first, if I observ'd a very
strict Order in my Writings, is a Native of _Spain_. The Count _d'Altheim_
married her at _Barcelona_. Her Beauty was the more admir'd in _Spain_
because she was fair. This Lady has a noble Air, and has a Genius capable
for Affairs of the greatest Consequence. Their Imperial Majesties pay her
great Distinction, and all the Courtiers honour and respect her, so that
now in her Widowhood she continues in good Credit, and almost as much
Authority as she had when that great Favourite her Husband was living.
The Gentry of _Austria_, and of all the Emperor's Hereditary Dominions,
are so fond of the Title of Count, that the Gentlemen buy and sollicit it
as eagerly as if it was a great Estate. 'Tis well for them that the
Dispatch of their Patents does not cost much; for the greatest Privilege
which this brings them is all a Chimæra. These Counts may be said to hold
the same Rank among the ancient Counts of the Empire as the King's
Secretaries in _France_ do among the Gentlemen of good Families.
As for Gentlemen, they are so common here that there are scarce any others
to be seen. All the Agents of the Court, and all the Referendaries procure
themselves a Title, tho' I know not why; for neither they nor their Wives
dare to rank themselves among the Prime Nobility. This Madness of theirs
to be enobled is so common, and so easy to be gratified, that I have known
a Man, who was formerly Messenger to the Emperor _Joseph_, purchase the
Title of Baron; and his Children begin to mix with the _Grand Monde_.
These, Sir, were all the Remarks that I made upon the _Austrians_. I must
give you a few Particulars concerning the Emperor's Person. I have already
said something to you of his Character: What follows is to shew you how
grateful he is, and how friendly, Virtues which are the more to be
esteem'd in him because they are not the most familiar to great Men.
The Emperor shows all possible Marks of Gratitude to those _Spaniards_ who
adher'd to him while he was at _Barcelona_. He has loaded them with Wealth
and Honours; and if it's possible for one's native Country to be forgot,
he has put them in a Situation to forget theirs. This particular Goodness
of the Emperor extends to all that followed his Fortunes in _Spain_; whom
he distinguishes upon all Occasions, and does them good preferably to his
other Subjects. As to Friendship, no Monarch ever had more for any
Favourite than _Charles_ had for the late Count _d'Altheim_, his Master of
the Horse. This Nobleman was the Emperor's Page, when he was only
Arch-Duke; and he attended that Prince to _Spain_, where his Care, his
Services, his Assiduity, and above all his Honesty and his Integrity, won
him the intire Confidence of the young Monarch. When this Prince became
Emperor he rewarded the Count with Honours, Wealth, and Dignities. He
lov'd him as long as he liv'd, and his Memory is still dear to him. As
soon as he died, the Emperor declar'd himself Guardian to his Children,
gave Orders in what manner they shou'd be brought up, and now treats them
much more like his own Children than his Subjects. But what wou'd you say
of the Emperor's tender Love for the Empress? Some time ago this Princess
being dangerously ill, the Emperor not only sent for his Physicians, and
conjur'd them to employ all their Art to save her Life, but promised them
Rewards suitable to that Service, and actually watched with her several
Nights to see her take the Remedies they prescrib'd. Does not a
Conjugal-Love so perfect, deserve to be rewarded by the Birth of an
Archduke? Adieu, Sir. If I were Emperor, you shou'd be my Count
_d'Altheim_; but in the Condition I am in, you are the Person whom I
honour most of all Mankind; and am, &c.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
LETTER XIV.
_SIR_, _Munich, Jan. 5, 1730._
As I came hither from _Vienna_, I stay'd two Days at LINTZ, the Capital of
_Upper Austria_. This City lies on the _Danube_, over which there is a
wooden Bridge. 'Tis a little Town, but well built, and has fine Churches.
Its Inhabitants are thriving, and they drive a great Trade in
Linnen-Cloth. 'Tis the Residence of a great many Persons of Quality, and
of the Regency of the Province, of which the Count _de Thirheim_ is the
Chief. This Nobleman lodges in the Imperial Palace, which stands upon an
Eminence, and commands the City. The Building is commodious enough, but
not so magnificent. The Emperor _Leopold_ stay'd here during the Siege of
_Vienna_; till not thinking himself safe in it he retir'd to _Passaw_. The
Neighbourhood of _Lintz_ is very agreeable. All the way hither from
_Vienna_ the _Danube_ is lin'd on both sides with Vineyards; but from
_Lintz_ to this Place, instead of Vines, there are Plantations of Hops.
MUNICH, in the _German_ Tongue _Munchen_, stands in the middle of a large
Plain, and in the Center of _Bavaria_, of which it is the Capital City.
The Walls of it are washed by the River _Iser_; 'tis a small Town, but
better built than fortified, for within these few Years several fine
Houses have been rais'd in it. The Elector's Palace is one of the biggest
Piles of Building in _Europe_, but it wants a great deal of being so
handsome a Structure as _Misson_ and several other Authors have
represented it; for its Magnificence consists principally in its Bulk. The
chief Front, which looks towards a very narrow Street, has the Resemblance
of a fair Convent; to which the Image of the Virgin _Mary_ over the great
Gate contributes not a little. That for which 'tis held in most Esteem is
the great Apartment which is call'd the _Emperor's_ Apartment. The
Connoisseurs in Painting admire the Pictures in the great Hall, which
represent both Sacred and Prophane History, and are performed by the Hand
of _Candi_. The Chimney-piece in the same Room is very much esteem'd:
Among other fine Figures with which it is adorn'd, there's a Statue of
Porphyry that represents _Virtue_ holding a Spear in the Right Hand, and
in the Left a gilt Palm-Branch. In 1632, when _Gustavus Adolphus_ King of
_Sweden_ made himself Master of _Munich_, he thought this so beautiful a
Room that he was sorry he could not get it transported to _Stockholm_. In
the Reign of _Ferdinand Mary_, Grandfather to the present Elector, great
part of the Palace of _Munich_ was reduc'd to Ashes, which Accident was,
'tis said, the Occasion of that Prince's Death; for being at _Straubingen_
when he received the sad News of the Fire, he took Horse immediately and
rode with such Fury to _Munich_ that he receiv'd a Fall which in a little
time prov'd his Death.
The present Elector _Charles-Albert-Cajetan_ has embellish'd the Palace
with a new Apartment, which, tho' not so big as the Emperor's, exceeds it
in Magnificence. 'Tis adorn'd with noble Pictures, antique Busts, and
Vases plac'd upon[111] Tables of very great Value; and among other Things
there's the Picture of the Virgin done by St. _Luke_.
There's a secret Passage from the Palace thro' little Galleries to all the
Churches and Convents in the Town. The nearest Church is that of the
_Theatins_, which together with their Monastery was built by
_Maria-Adelaide_ of _Savoy_ Wife to _Ferdinand-Mary_. The Fryars of this
Convent must be twenty seven in number, and all Men of Quality. They
subsist by charitable Donations; but dare not ask Alms, and must wait for
such Provisions as Providence shall please to send them. When they have
suffer'd extreme Want at any Time for three Days together, they are
permitted to ring a Bell as a Token of their Distress; but it has been
observ'd that this never happen'd above twice since their first
Establishment, because the Electors are too charitable to let them want.
The Tomb of the Princes of _Bavaria_ is in the Church of these honest
Fryars.
The Church of our Lady is the parochial Church of _Munich_. In it is the
stately Tomb of the Emperor _Lewis_ of _Bavaria_ who died of Poison. 'Tis
adorn'd with a great many fine Figures of Brass and Marble. In this Church
the Elector on the 24th of _April_ last instituted the Order of St.
_George_, by Authority of Pope _Benedict_ XIII. The Ceremony was perform'd
with a vast deal of Pomp, and the Elector of _Cologn_ officiated at the
High Mass. The Promotion consisted of three Grand Priors, six Grand
Crosses, a Commander, and six Knights. Some time after this first
Promotion the Elector made a second, in which he appointed one Grand
Cross, and nine Knights. 'Tis said there will speedily be a third
Promotion of eight more Knights, the whole Number being to consist of
forty[112].
The Elector intends to annex Commanderies to his Order. They who are
admitted into it must give Proofs of their Extraction from sixteen
Descents; and this is so strictly observ'd that his most Serene Electoral
Highness, as Grand Master of the Order, has renounc'd all Power of
granting any Dispensation from it. According to the Statutes of this Order
all the Knights are oblig'd to be Catholics, to defend the Faith and the
Church, to protect Widows and Orphans, and to practise all the Christian
Virtues. The Badge of the Order is a large Sky-blue Ribbon border'd about
the breadth of an Inch with a black and white Stripe; and at the end of
the Ribbon hangs a Cross enamell'd with blue, in the middle of which there
is a St. _George_.
The Church and Convent of the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits are two very
magnificent Structures. The Roof of the Church which is one single Nave is
a Work of Skill and Ingenuity, wherein the Apertures are contriv'd with
very great Art; for which reason, the Curious look upon this Fabric as a
Master-piece of Architecture.
The Church of the Reverend Fathers of St. _Austin_, tho' but of a moderate
Size, contains Beauties that are not always to be met with in greater
Fabrics. The Pictures with which it is adorn'd are highly esteem'd, and
good Judges agree there are few that can parallel them.
Tho' the Houses of _Munich_ are all very well built, there are few that
can be call'd Hotels or Palaces. The Count _Piosas_ a _Piedmontese_ has
caus'd one to be built of late Years which is a considerable Structure
with regard to the true Proportions of its Outside, and to the ingenious
Distribution of the Apartments, which have fine Decorations and good
Furniture.
The Court of _Bavaria_ observes most of the Customs of the Court of
_Vienna_ in matters of Ceremony, but as for the rest, their Way of living
is different; here being more Freedom, and more Diversion.
The Elector _Charles-Albert_ delights in Pleasures and bodily Exercise,
and acquits himself therein with a Grace. He is a comely Personage, and
has a grave, noble, and majestic Air, so that he is taken for a proud Man;
yet few Princes are more gracious and more civil to Strangers, and to his
Subjects also he is easy of Access. He was full of Life and Spirit when he
was a Prince, and now that he is a Sovereign is become sedate and
moderate. He is genteel, talks _French_, _Italian_, and _Latin_ well, is
Master of History, and perfectly acquainted with the Interest of Princes
in general, and that of his own Family in particular. He sticks to
Business, and above all seems to be very earnest in redressing his
Finances which he found in great Disorder when he acceded to the
Electorate. The Elector was born the 6th of _August_, 1697. He is Son of
_Maximilian-Emanuel_ famous for his Victories and for his Disgrace, and of
_Theresa-Cunegunda-Sobieski_, Daughter of _John Sobieski_ King of
_Poland_. When _Charles_ came into the World he had a Brother living who
was born of the Arch-Duchess _Mary-Maximilian_, _Emanuel_'s first Wife.
This young Prince who all _Europe_ expected wou'd be the Successor of
_Charles_ II. King of _Spain_, dying at _Brussels_ the 6th of _February_,
1699, _Charles_ thereby became the Electoral Prince: He was bred up at
_Munich_ with four of his Brothers, but both he and his Brothers
surrender'd Prisoners to the Emperor _Joseph_ after the Battle of
_Hochstet_, which subjected all _Bavaria_ to his Imperial Majesty. That
Monarch had the young Princes remov'd to _Gratz_, where he caus'd them to
be treated in a manner not so suitable to their high Birth as to their
decay'd Fortune. When _Joseph_ died, his Successor _Charles_ VI. used the
Princes with less Severity, caus'd them to be honourably attended, and
sent them Masters to instruct them; and upon the Peace of _Rastadt_ which
reinstated the Elector _Maximilian-Emanuel_ in his Dominions, the Princes
his Children were restor'd to him. They finish'd their Studies at
_Munich_, after which the Elector sent the four eldest to _Rome_, where
the second, whose Name was Duke _Philip_, died not long after he had been
chose Bishop of _Munster_ and _Paderborn_. _Charles_ returning from
_Italy_ went to _Vienna_, made the Campaign of _Belgrade_, and some Years
after that, he marry'd _Mary-Amelia-Anne_ of _Austria_, the late Emperor
_Joseph_'s second Daughter. In 1725, _Charles_ and his three Brothers were
at _Fontainbleau_, at the Marriage of _Lewis_ XV. and next Year he
succeeded his Father who died at _Munich_ lamented as he was ador'd by his
Courtiers.
The Electoress who is a little Woman, very much resembles the Empress her
Mother, and has more Vivacity than is common to the Princes of the House
of _Austria_. She prefers Hunting to all other Pleasures, and there are
few Days but she partakes of that Diversion with the Elector, who, as well
as the Princes his Brothers, is fond of it.
The Elector has by his Marriage two[113] Princes and two Princesses. The
eldest of the Sons who has the Title of the Electoral Prince is call'd
_Maximilian-Joseph_, and was born the 28th of _March_, 1727. His most
serene Electoral Highness's three Brothers are Duke _Ferdinand_, the
Elector of _Cologn_, and the Bishop of _Freisingen_ and _Ratisbon_. Of
these Princes Duke _Ferdinand_ is the only one who resides at _Munich_.
His most serene Highness is a Lieutenant-General, and has a Regiment of
Cuirassiers in the Emperor's Service. He is also a Knight of the _Golden
Fleece_, and Grand Prior of the Order of St. _George_. He marry'd
_Mary-Ann-Caroline_ of _Newbourg_, by whom he has two Sons and one
Daughter. I have already told you that he was educated with the Elector
his Brother, with whom he made the Campaign of _Belgrade_, travell'd
several times to _Italy_, and last of all to _France_, where those Princes
were admir'd for their Splendor, their Politeness, their good Taste, and
their fine Understanding. One shan't find a Man more affable than Duke
_Ferdinand_ who is even ador'd at _Munich_, and is dearly belov'd by the
Elector his Brother. The Duchess his Wife who is the best-natur'd Princess
in the World makes grand Entertainments, and is particularly civil to
Strangers.
The Bishop of _Freisingen_ and _Ratisbon_ spends more of his Time at
_Munich_ than in his Diocese. He is a Prince of great Penetration, Spirit
and Vivacity, is generous, liberal, and charitable, extremely civil, and
'tis impossible to be acquainted with him without adding Love to that
Respect and Veneration which are due to his Birth and Character. He
enter'd very young into Orders, and was consecrated Bishop by his Brother
the Elector of _Cologn_. 'Twas thought at first that he wou'd have made
but an indifferent Ecclesiastic, but he has demonstrated that he knows how
to reconcile the Gravity of a Prelate with the Magnanimity of a Temporal
Prince.
The Court of _Bavaria_ is without dispute the most gallant, and the
politest in _Germany_. We have a _French_ Comedy here together with Balls
and Gaming every Day, and a Concert of Music three Times a Week, at which
all the Company is mask'd; and after the Concert there's Gaming and
Dancing. These public Assemblies, at which the Elector and the whole Court
are present, bring in a great Revenue to the Elector's _Valets de
Chambre_; for besides the Money which every one pays at Entrance, they are
also paid for the Cards, and are concern'd in almost all the Banks; so
that those Domestics have almost all the Cash of the Nobility, with whom
they don't scruple neither to rank themselves. Besides these noisy
Pleasures we have others that are more tranquil, I mean those of civil
Society. Of this kind there's more here than in the other Towns of
_Germany_; but more still among the Foreigners that are in the Elector's
Service than among the _Bavarians_; for these are generally proud, tho'
'tis certainly more owing to their Opinion that it gives them a good Air
to be so than to their Temper; and they actually become more sociable when
they are made sensible that their grand Airs are not astonishing.
The Title of Count is as common here as at _Vienna_, and the _Bavarian_
Counts have no greater Privileges than those of _Austria_, for they are as
much Subjects as the meanest Gentlemen. I find that those in Places, and
who bear any Rank at Court are much more polite than others. The Counts
_de Thirheim_, _Torring_, and _Preising_ who have the chief Employments
are so civil that I believe there's few Foreigners but will give them
their Encomium.
The Elector has a very large Houshold, and a number of great Officers.
I'll mention some of them to you.
The Count _Maximilian de Torring-Seefeldt_ is Steward of the Elector's
Houshold, a Minister of State, and Knight of the _Golden Fleece_. This
Nobleman who is advanc'd in Years, is good-natur'd and civil, speaks
little, is naturally grave, not fond of Pomp, and lives retir'd in the
middle of a Court, but when he makes any Entertainment does it with
Grandeur. He never once abandon'd the Elector _Maximilian-Emanuel_ his
former Master, but follow'd him in his Fortunes both good and bad.
The Count _Sigismond de Thirheim_ is Great Chamberlain, a Minister of
State, and Grand Croix of the Order of St. _George_. He is very tall, and
tho' his Air is not the most affable, he is courteous and civil. He lives
very nobly, and does the Honours of the Court very handsomely;
consequently he is generally beloved and esteem'd. He was Governor of the
Elector, who, contrary to most Princes that are not apt to retain an
Esteem for those who once had the Care of their Education, gives great
Proofs of his Regard for the Count _de Thirheim_.
The Count _Maximilian de Fugger_ is Grand Marshal[114]. As he does not
live at _Munich_, I have nothing particular to tell you of him.
The Count _Maximilian de Preysing_ Master of the Horse, President of the
Chamber of Finances, a Minister of State, and Grand Croix of the Order of
St. _George_, is a very polite Nobleman, but serious and grave to the last
degree. 'Tis difficult for any Man to be more attach'd to his Religion, to
have more Candor, and to be more upright than this Minister. His Probity
has brought Envy upon him, but it has procur'd him the Elector's intire
Confidence, of which however the Count makes no farther Advantage than is
requisite for his Master's Business. He is accus'd of being close-fisted,
and of dissuading the Elector from giving Gratuities; but 'tis agreed that
he is very charitable to the Poor. 'Tis a hard matter for a Minister who
has the Direction of the Finances to please every body, and he is commonly
the Butt of public Censure.
The Count _de Rechberg_ Great Huntsman[115], Minister of State, President
of the Council of War, Lieutenant-General, and Grand Croix of the Order of
St. _George_, is Commander in Chief of the Elector's Forces: He
accompany'd the late Elector to _France_ where he acquir'd the Reputation
of an experienc'd skilful General.
_Ignatius-Joseph_ Count _de Torring_ is a Minister of State, Grand Master
of the Artillery, and a Grand Croix of St. _George_. He followed the late
Elector into _France_, and after that Prince was restor'd he went as
Minister Plenipotentiary to the Imperial Court, where he negotiated the
Marriage of the present Elector with the Archduchess, youngest Daughter to
the late Emperor _Joseph_.
I cou'd tell you of many other Persons of Distinction at the Court of
_Bavaria_, only I fear that being too particular wou'd tire your Patience.
The Ministers who bear the greatest Sway are the Counts _Maximilian de
Preysing_ and _de Torring_, and M. _d'Unertel_. The first is Director of
the Finances; the second has the Province of Foreign Affairs; and the
third takes care of Affairs Domestic and Military. These three Ministers
are the Arbiters of _Bavaria_, and to them the Tribunals of the several
Provinces must apply.
_Bavaria_ is divided into four Cantons or Provinces, _viz._ the Cantons
_of Munich_, _Burghausen_, _Landstrut_ and _Straubingen_. Each of these
Provinces has a Regency or Parliament; and an Appeal lies from Sentences
therein pass'd to the Elector's Council of State.
'Tis certain that _Bavaria_ is one of the best States in the Empire. 'Tis
said that it brings in seven Millions of Florins, and I have been assured
by Persons who have Opportunities of being inform'd of the State of the
Finances, that there was a time when the late Elector received eleven
Millions _per Ann._ The Riches of _Bavaria_ are owing to the Exportation
of Salt and Corn, and to the Consumption of the Beer brew'd in the
Country, which is as good as any in the World. _Tirol_, and the Country
of _Saltzbourg_, have almost all the Corn which they spend from
_Bavaria_, and the Elector has a Florin for every Sack that is exported.
Another thing which is a Treasure to _Bavaria_ is the Fir-Trees, a Wood
that serves for every Use that can be imagin'd, whether for Building, or
for Houshold-Stuff. There is not a Province in the Empire where Provisions
are cheaper, and in the mean time there's a vast Home-Consumption; for
besides that the _Bavarians_ love good Eating and Drinking, the Country is
very populous; and 'tis computed that the Inhabitants of _Munich_ alone
are above 40,000.
Of all the Sovereigns in _Europe_, next to the King of _France_, the
Elector of _Bavaria_ has the finest Pleasure-Houses, for which he may
thank the Elector his Father who had a wonderful good Fancy and Judgment.