their fruits are particularly good and plentiful. The last-named is a
delicious variety with a delicate flavour and externally somewhat
resembles the nectarine. Peaches are mostly grafted on almond stocks, as
these are hardy and good drought-resisters, but there are a fair number
of European varieties. Almond trees abound in all parts and do extremely
well if properly cultivated. Other fairly common fruit trees are the
quince and loquat, or Japanese medlar.
For several years choice kinds of fruit trees have been imported from
England, and many thousands of trees of different kinds throughout the
Island have been grafted and are now beginning to produce fruit of
excellent quality. Good work has been done by the Perapedhi Wine
Association, whose garden has been a centre for the dissemination of
choice grafts.
Unhappily the village growers have been very reluctant to apply proper
cultivation or to carry out advice in treating their trees, which have
become the hosts of all kinds of diseases and insect pests. A better
spirit is now being shown in this direction.
_Vines and Wines_
Writing in 1896, Gennadius described the industry and perseverance of
the peasants, who with most imperfect implements, by breaking up the
hard rock and building up the scanty soil, formed vineyards on the steep
mountain sides, and often up to their very summits. These vineyards, he
says, having been mostly planted in haste in the happy days of the
demand for wines (when French vineyards were destroyed by phylloxera),
were formed by the personal labour of the peasant eked out by the help
of loans. Since then the wine trade has passed through critical times
and prices have often been greatly depreciated. The small vine-growers,
who are also for the most part wine-producers, fell on evil times and
became heavily indebted. They have remained so until the last year or
two, when, owing to the large demand and the high prices of wines in
Egypt, they have been able to free themselves.
Gennadius regarded the cultivation of the vine in Cyprus as indisputably
unprofitable, and was in favour of checking its extension, and even
advocated the imposition of a special tax on new plantations. At the
time he wrote there was an overproduction, and the value of wine had
greatly fallen, and the revenue which Cypriot wine-makers could gain
therefrom would hardly suffice to cover the expenses of its transport to
the market, the annual interest on their debts, and the taxes they had
to meet.
The village-made wine is usually clarified by means of gypsum. It is
carried down from the mountain villages in goat-skins (askos or ashia)
on pack animals, and then sold to the Limassol merchants, who ship the
greater part to Egypt.
The production of wine as carried out in Cyprus leaves much to be
desired. M. Mouillefert, who visited Cyprus in 1892 to report on the
wine industry, says: "The vintage is often gathered too late.
Insufficient care is given to the picking of the grapes and diseased,
rotten, mildewy or unripe grapes are often used which detract from the
quality of the wine.
"The grapes are trodden and the fermentation takes place in jars and
chatties of porous earth, of a capacity of 2 or 3 hectolitres, which are
tarred inside to counteract their porosity. The houses in which the
fermentation takes place are of almost the same temperature as the
surrounding air, with the result that in the warmer parts of the Island
fermentation at first is generally rapid or disturbed, and the
temperature of the must becomes excessive. In the colder parts, on the
contrary, the opposite takes place and the resulting wine is rough and
sharp. The use of gypsum as a preservative is unfortunately very common.
The tarring of the goat-skins and jars imparts a flavour which is very
unsuited to the European taste."
M. Mouillefert made the following recommendations: "Tarred jars for
fermentation should be replaced by wooden vats, or, in the warmer parts
of the Island, by tuns similar to those used throughout the South of
France and in Algeria. Presses less primitive than those in use should
be employed since these leave in the lees a very large quantity of wine.
The wine when drawn off from the lees should be kept in tuns or in small
wooden casks." "In short," he says, "to speak quite plainly, no good
wine destined for ordinary consumption can be obtained with jars."
Some twenty years ago an English Wine Company was established at
Perapedhi and, until the war, carried on a successful trade and produced
some good wines manufactured on modern lines. The factory was well
equipped with up-to-date plant, and its wine of port type was especially
popular. It was throughout the greater part of this time owned by the
firm of W. H. Chaplin & Co., London, but since the war it has been
closed down. The excellent brandy of Messrs. Hadji Pavlo & Co. has found
for some time a steady market in England, and there are other
well-equipped wine and spirit factories at Limassol, notably those of
the Limassol Wine & Spirit Co., Ltd., of Mr. M. Michaelides and of Mr.
N. Joannides.
The firm of Messrs. Hadji Pavlo & Co. has carried out since 1872 the
manufacture of spirits, and for twenty-five years they have been engaged
in producing their "Zanatzin" brand of wines. Their V.O. cognac and
three-star brandy are both excellent.
Various liqueurs, made from local products, aniseed, kernels of apricots
and other stone fruit, etc., are made by this and other firms, and sold
under the name "Zucki."
The principal wines, spirits, liqueurs and other alcoholic liquors
produced are:
The ordinary black wine of the country, or "krasi."
The ordinary white wine of the country, or "asprokrasi."
Commandaria.
Brandy. First and second quality sold in barrels; one-star, two-star,
three-star and V.O. sold in bottles.
Mastic, sold in four qualities; Zucki, sold in two qualities.
Rum and Amer Pigon.
Alcohol. 95 C. and 36 C.
Various spirits, liqueurs and syrups: whisky, vermuth, amathus, banana,
mentha, mandarini, triantaphyllo, kitro, pergamotto, vanilla, violetta,
anana, benedictine.
Eau de Cologne.
Commandaria is one of the oldest and most famous sweet dessert wines. It
is held indeed to have been the "nectar of the gods." In the time of the
Knights Templar it acquired great fame. Existing stocks are annually
added to, the original vintage having in some cases a great age, so much
so that, through evaporation, the wine becomes a syrup or pulp, which
imparts a bouquet to the fresh commandaria which is added to it. In
making commandaria the grapes are left on the vines until overripe and,
after picking, are spread out in the sun for further evaporation, when
they undergo the usual process of wine-making. In this way a sweet wine,
rich in sugar and alcohol, and having a characteristic flavour, is
produced. A limited quantity only is made every year, and of this a
certain quantity is exported and fetches a high price, as a speciality,
in England and on the Continent.
A red mastic is made at the Kykko Monastery which has acquired local
fame.
The situation at the present time is generally improved, and although
Cyprus wines can never form more than an insignificant proportion of the
world's supply, and could not create any special market without
considerable change of system and large expenditure in advertising, they
may yet, by simple improved methods, by means of co-operative storage
and the application of sound elementary principles, be able to secure a
more recognised position and a remunerative, though perhaps limited,
demand, at any rate for some of the special brands.
For the benefit of village producers practical lectures, with the help
of special apparatus, are now being given in the wine villages during
the vintage season, by officials of the Agricultural Department.
The export of wines (including commandaria) and spirits during the ten
years ended 1913 were of a total value of L313,920 and L55,364
respectively. The lowest and highest figures were L20,274 in 1909 and
L52,351 in 1911 for wines and L3,991 in 1906 and L8,187 in 1913 for
spirits. For the last four years the exports have been:
Year. Wines (including Spirits.
Commandaria).
L L
1914 29,405 4,396
1915 38,158 5,431
1916 80,165 6,865
1917 78,451 22,173
There is an export duty on wine at the rate of 8 paras per gallon, on
all spirit of 20 paras per gallon and on all vinegar of 5 paras per
gallon.
Some seventeen varieties of _Vitis vinifera_ have for a long time been
grown in Cyprus; the most largely cultivated being the following:
Mavro (black). The commonest variety, medium-sized bunch, with dark,
large, oval-shaped grapes.
Xinisteri (white). Common variety, with medium-sized bunch, white
roundish grapes, thin skin. These are suited to a rich moist soil.
Voophthalmo (ox-eye). Equally common variety. Rather small bunch, with
black, round and rather small grapes. Suited to a dry, calcareous soil.
The Muscat comes next, being mostly grown at Omodhos. It is the common
early muscatel of the East.
The remaining kinds are locally known as Bastardico (bastard),
Maratheftico or Kraseti, Morokanali or Spourta (flabby-berried), Promari
or Glycopromo (early or early-sweet), Xantho, Axanthi or Phinikoto,
Kouphorrhovo or Katin-parmak, Verico, Sultana, Razaki, Corinthiaki
(currant), Malaga (Alexandria Muscatel), Rhodities. Of these, several
are only to be found here and there in private gardens.
Five years ago several thousand Sultana vines were imported by the
Agricultural Department from Crete, and these have now become fairly
well distributed over the Island and the produce is beginning to appear
in the market. These dried sultanas in 1918 sold for as much as 4_s._
per oke.
Three years ago the following varieties of table vines were imported
from England by the Agricultural Department:
Black Hamburg
Alicante or Black Tokay
Canon Hall Muscat
Lady Hastings
Royal Muscadine
Muscat of Alexandria
These are now being acclimatised, and it is hoped gradually to
distribute a large number of grafts.
Vine cultivation covers an area of about 140,000 donums and is in the
hands of some 15,700 vine growers.
Owing to defects of planting the vines of Cyprus do not in most cases
begin to bear fruit before the third or fourth year, while, if modern
methods were adopted, they would bear fruit in their second year and
attain their full growth in their fourth year.
What is known as the "willow-head" system of pruning has been very
general, with consequently poor results. Better methods have long been
inculcated and are now being more and more adopted. Manuring is but
rarely practised and ploughing is confined to lightly turning the
surface soil with a wooden plough, and this not every year. On the
higher slopes of the mountains terracing is common and necessary.
Grape mildew (_Oidium Tuckeri_) is prevalent in nearly all the vine
areas. Other diseases and pests of the vine met with are anthracnose,
pourridie, _Septosporium Fuckelii_, cuscute, _Cochylis_, _Zygaena
ampelophaga_ and _Pyralis_. Happily the stringent regulations which for
many years have been in force prohibiting the importation of any kind of
living plant have resulted in keeping the Cypriot vineyards free from
the scourge of phylloxera.
Sulphuring has become more general of late years. The Government has
done much to bring this about, and for fifteen years or more has
imported sufficient sulphur from Sicily, which has been placed in the
hands of village store-keepers and sold at a fixed price by the
Agricultural Department. This has never more than exceeded the bare cost
and more often has been issued at half cost and in times of distress
even gratis.
The vine-owners have been stimulated by the recent high prices for wines
to expend more time and money on this operation. The ignorant prejudice
against the effectiveness of sulphur as a cure for grape mildew has to a
great extent died out. False ideas of economy alone prevent its general
use.
Fresh grapes are largely consumed locally, and considerable quantities
are exported to Egypt, as shown by the following table:
Year. Quantity. Value.
_Cwts._ L
1904 12,025 1,854
1905 8,607 1,208
1906 9,563 1,487
1907 7,399 1,161
1908 6,807 1,331
1909 7,078 1,094
1910 7,588 1,216
1911 11,597 1,865
1912 12,565 2,028
1913 10,303 1,487
The average annual export of raisins for the ten years ended 1913 was
54,007 cwts. valued at L24,190. The lowest price was 5_s._ 4_cp._ per
cwt. in 1909 and the highest 11_s._ 4-1/2_cp._ in 1911. During the war
the exports have been: 1914, 16,395 cwts., L7,419; 1915, 54,189 cwts.,
L34,467; 1916, 34,361 cwts., L38,188; and 1917, 70,624 cwts., L90,040.
The annual prices in these years were respectively 9_s._, 12_s._
6-1/2_cp._, 22_s._ 2_cp._ and 25_s._ 4-1/2_cp._ per cwt.
Up to 1905, inclusive, by far the greatest quantity of raisins had been
shipped every year to Austria; Rumania, Turkey and Egypt coming next in
order. Since that date Rumania has easily taken the first place, being
followed at a distance by Austria, Turkey and Egypt. Since the war the
bulk has been shipped for military requirements and to France, Egypt,
Malta and England for eating and for use in confectionery, and the
industry has grown.
A marked improvement has taken place in the preparation of the raisins;
and specially qualified officials of the Agricultural Department every
year give practical instruction on this subject in the vine villages.
_Citrus Fruits_
Oranges and lemons are very extensively grown in Cyprus, whilst
mandarines, citrons ("kitria") and sweet limes ("glykolemonia") are also
found in every part of the Island. In addition, the shaddock ("phrappa")
and the bergamot orange are cultivated in the Island.
The best and most common variety of the sweet orange is the oval
(sometimes round) Jaffa, grown everywhere, but specially at Famagusta,
where there are numerous orange groves. Another variety of good quality
is grown at Lefka. The trees of both varieties produce large, firm,
thick-fleshed fruit.
Bitter oranges are largely grown from seed for stock on which the better
kinds are grafted. Many thousands of these, and also of the grafted
plants, are annually issued from the Government Nurseries. Much loss has
been sustained from time to time through disease, and in 1899 whole
orange groves at Famagusta, Lefka and Kythrea were uprooted or cut right
back. With the expansion of the Agricultural Department and a small
qualified staff it has become possible to bring these diseases somewhat
under control, and the orange and lemon production has much increased,
though gummosis and scale disease still play much havoc.
In the Varosha orange groves the trees are grown in light, sandy soil,
which is banked up round the trunk. They are irrigated by means of the
native alakati, or noria, or more often by air-motors, which in this
locality are much in vogue.
The two most common causes of failure are the persistent planting of
trees too close together and over-watering. Growers turn a deaf ear to
all advice aimed at changing these two bad habits. The native
agriculturist is convinced, beyond the reach of argument, that the
greater the number of trees on a given area the greater will be the
profit. In a land where water is so precious the deep-rooted opinion is
held that the more water a plant receives the better it will thrive, and
too frequent irrigation accounts to a large extent for the widespread
damage caused by gummosis. Until lately pruning was scarcely practised
at all. Thanks to a system of model orchards lately instituted by the
Agricultural Department, better methods are at last being introduced,
and fruit-growers are able to model their practice upon the work carried
out on the specimen trees, alongside their own, reserved by the
Department for such demonstrations.
Lemons are largely consumed by natives with their food. The produce is
of large size, thick-skinned and juicy. Until some twelve years or so
ago the fruit was largely sold on the trees for shipment to Russia and
Rumania, but those markets failed, owing to the prevalence in Cyprus of
scale disease and partly to loss through rotting in transport. The
export of oranges and lemons has of late years been confined almost
entirely to Egypt.
_Fig_ (_Ficus Carica_)
This tree thrives everywhere, and is particularly cultivated at Livadhia
and Lefkara (Larnaca district), in Paphos and at the Tylliria, where the
small, sweet, white variety, locally called "antelounika," is grown.
There are but few true Smyrna figs, but this variety is being multiplied
by cuttings and also by grafting. Other good kinds are the "sarilop" and
"bardajik," of which there are a few private specimens only, and the
"vardika" which is more or less common, particularly at Morphou. The
Lefkara figs somewhat resemble those of Tylliria and, like the latter,
mature naturally; they are considered very good and are divided into two
varieties, the "malantzana" and the "kourtziatika." The figs of Ktema in
Paphos are the common violet-coloured variety, but are larger, and are
mostly ripened artificially.
Cyprus figs are only of moderate quality, though doubtless susceptible
of improvement. They resist drought and generally yield good crops every
year.
The native dried fig is much eaten, and is also used as an adulterant
of, if not a substitute for, coffee, and makes a good beverage, like the
well-known Austrian "feigen cafe." Dried figs are also made into a paste
and mixed with flour to make fig pies ("sykopitae").
The method of oiling, that is, smearing with oil the orifice on the top
of the fig while still unripe, is applied to those varieties which ripen
slowly. It is these varieties which are especially grown in Cyprus. The
fruit so treated is rather tasteless and insipid, but as it comes early
to market it fetches a good price. The reason for hastening the ripening
process by oiling is that the fruit may become ready for picking before
sparrows and hornets get it, as they would otherwise do at that season.
The later crop is more or less immune from their attacks, as ripe corn
is then abundant in the field or on the threshing-floor.
Figs first appear on the market in May. This early fruit is called
"magiles" (possibly from Maios-gilia = May production). The fruit is
produced on the wood of the preceding year, from a bud which has
remained dormant. The next crop appears about mid-July, and then the
fruit is called by its proper name "syka."
_Cherries_
The principal and almost the only cherry-growing village in the Island
is Pedoulas, in the Marathassa valley. This village is about 3,600 ft.
above the sea-level. The trees at that village do remarkably well, and
they bring in a good revenue. They are mostly wild trees which have been
grafted; but there are also a small number which have been raised from
imported Malaheb seed. From time to time good kinds of young grafted
cherry trees have been imported from England by the Agricultural
Department and grafts from these have been freely supplied to the
village.
There are two native varieties, one ("kerasi") which is almost
exclusively grown at Pedoulas, the other ("vysino") which is found
fairly well distributed over the Island. The former is pale yellow and
pink, the latter is slightly smaller and less sweet and of a darkish-red
colour, and is used mostly in making jam and preserves, while the
"kerasi" is more for table purposes.
More grafted trees are now coming into bearing and "White-hearts" are
now sold in the bazaar at about 12 cps. per oke. "Black-hearts" are also
beginning to make an appearance.
Efforts are being made to introduce the cherry tree to other hill
villages, and there seems no reason why its cultivation should not
become general in the higher parts of the Island. This fruit travels
well and a fine market awaits it in Egypt.
Owing to the prohibition of fruit exports during the war, a small
industry has grown up for drying the "kerasi."
_Banana_
The local name of the banana is Sykiton Adam (Adam's fig), from the
belief that Adam made an apron of the leaves.
There is some hope that the cultivation of this delicious fruit may
become more taken up in Cyprus than has hitherto been thought possible.
Paphos has for several years had the reputation of possessing
fruit-yielding trees of good quality. Offshoots from some of these have
been transplanted to Larnaca, and there are now several gardens in which
a fair quantity of fruit ripens each year. At Kyrenia and Lapithos there
are also a good number of trees. The fruit is of a different variety
from that of Paphos and Larnaca, the shape being longitudinally angular,
whereas the latter kind is longitudinally round and larger.
Five years ago the Agricultural Department obtained some special
varieties from Zanzibar. These are now beginning to yield fruit, and
offshoots are being distributed in the Island.
_Azarol Hawthorn_
This hawthorn (_Crataegus Azarolus_), known locally as "mosphilia," grows
wild scattered about over the country. The fruit makes an excellent
jelly. The tree is an excellent stock on which to graft the pear tree.
In the higher regions another species, _C. monogyna_, is found.
_Melons_
The western end of the Messaoria plain is noted for its water-melons and
sweet-melons. These are grown in "postania," a corruption of the Persian
word "bustan," a garden. They are cultivated only on irrigable land. At
Asha, where, perhaps, the best fruits are grown, the land is flooded by
the river and no later watering, as a rule, takes place. Through a
well-grounded fear of theft, the grower and his family live in their
"postania" during the season of marketing. Reed shelters are erected,
and the rolled-up beds and bedding with their white coverlets present a
strange appearance. There is always a big local demand and a good yield
is generally obtained from these "postania." High prices are paid for
suitable melonland.
The local names for the water-melons are "karpousia" or "paticha," and
for the sweet-melons "piponia" or "tamboures."
The cultivation of this fruit is general throughout the Island.
_Date Palm_
This tree grows promiscuously throughout the plains, produced mostly by
accidental seeding. Very little actual sowing takes place. The best
groves are round about Nicosia.
The trunk-wood, being very hard and fibrous, is used in the construction
of the old type of waterwheel ("alakati") and for beams in houses. It is
also utilised as fuel in Turkish baths as it burns slowly and gives out
great heat. Palm leaves are in demand for making various native baskets,
specially the "zimpilia" for holding seed when sowing broadcast. Hats
are made from them in a few villages.
The native varieties of date palm are not of high quality. They are:
"Baltchik," the fruit of which ripens on the tree; "Phountouk"
(hazelnut); "Kourmouzou" (red); and "Saraih" (yellow). The last three
are artificially ripened when picked, by spraying them with a mixture of
syrup and vinegar. The "Baltchik" produces fruits suitable for fresh
consumption. The "Phountouk" is somewhat inferior. The other two have
large fruits which are specially suited for preserving.
Two years ago the Agricultural Department imported from Sudan the
following varieties: "Condeila," "Bertamouta" and "Barakawi." They
suffered much on the journey and it is doubtful if more than two or
three specimens will survive.
As a rule dates ripen well in Cyprus; gathering takes place from October
to December. The clusters must generally be covered with sacking to
protect them from birds.
NUTS
_Hazelnuts and Cobnuts or Filberts_
These nuts are collectively known in commerce as "small nuts." They are
all, however, the produce of a species of _Corylus_, the different kinds
being distinguished by trade names according to their country of origin
(see an article on "Sources of Supply of Hazelnuts" in BULLETIN OF THE
IMPERIAL INSTITUTE, vol. xiv. 1916, pp. 261-7).
In Cyprus these are grown almost exclusively around a well-defined group
of villages of the Pitsillia, notably Alona, Palaechori, Askas,
Platanistassa, Phterikoudi, Livadhia, Agros, Alithinou, Saranti,
Polystipos. In this locality the plantations are thickly grown and good
yields are obtained. It is doubtful whether there are other parts of the
Island equally well suited to this tree.