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LUNCHEONS
------------------------------------------------------------------------
LUNCHEONS
A COOK’S PICTURE BOOK
A SUPPLEMENT TO THE
CENTURY COOK BOOK
BY
[Illustration: Mary Arnold]
AUTHOR OF THE CENTURY COOK BOOK
ILLUSTRATED WITH OVER
TWO HUNDRED PHOTOGRAPHS
[Illustration: Publisher’s Logo]
NEW YORK
THE CENTURY CO.
1902
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Copyright, 1902, by
THE CENTURY CO.
-------
Published October, 1902
THE DEVINNE PRESS
------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE BOOK
This book is intended as a supplement to the “Century Cook Book,” hence
no general rules for cooking are given.
It is a book of illustrated receipts, a cook’s picture-book, intended to
be very useful in the way of suggestion. It is arranged so that
housekeepers may more readily make up a menu, often a difficult task, or
may easily find new dishes to vary the routine of the daily fare.
Instead of various menus, which are impracticable because they seldom
suit the convenience of the moment, lists of dishes are given which can
be quickly read over and those suitable for the occasion selected. These
lists are placed at the heads of the sections, each section representing
a single course, and each list comprising a number of dishes, any one of
which is suitable for that course.
The receipts will meet the requirements of luncheons, but the majority
of them are equally appropriate for dinner.
Attention has been given to the garnishing and manner of dishing, in
order to make the dishes pleasing to the sight; for pretty dishes are
attractive and recommend themselves, while carelessly served ones are
sometimes refused on account of their appearance.
The illustrated dishes, though apparently elaborate, are in fact quite
simple, the pastry-bag and tube, the use of which is easily acquired,
being the means employed to decorate many of them.
The illustrations will serve as suggestions, and the taste of the cook
will lead her to use such other combinations as are suited to her
convenience.
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CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
(Pages 1-34)
LUNCHEONS FONTAGE CUPS
GARNISHING AND DIFFERENT WAYS OF PREPARING
DISHING BUTTER
THE PASTRY-BAG MEASURES AND TERMS
ORDER OF COURSES
CHAPTER II
(Pages 35-42)
FRUITS
First Course OYSTER AND CLAM COCKTAILS
OYSTERS AND CLAMS ON THE HALF
SHELL
CANAPÉS
CHAPTER III
(Pages 43-48)
Second Course SOUPS
CHAPTER IV
(Pages 49-58)
Third Course EGGS
CHAPTER V
(Pages 59-68)
Fourth Course SHELL-FISH LOBSTERS FISH
CHAPTER VI
(Pages 69-82)
Fifth or Seventh ENTRÉES
Course
CHAPTER VII
(Pages 83-106)
MEATS
Sixth Course VEGETABLES AND CEREALS USED AS
VEGETABLES
CHICKEN
SAUCES FOR MEATS SWEET
SAUCES
CHAPTER VIII
(Pages 107-111)
Seventh Course FROZEN
PUNCHES FRUITS CHEESE
DISHES
CHAPTER IX
(Pages 113-131)
Eighth Course GAME SALADS COLD
SERVICE CHEESE SALAD
DRESSINGS
CHAPTER X
(Pages 133-163)
Ninth Course HOT DESSERTS COLD
DESSERTS PIES AND TARTS
CHAPTER XI
(Pages 165-171)
Tenth Course ICES
CHAPTER XII
(Pages 173-176)
Eleventh Course FRUITS
CHAPTER XIII
(Pages 177-195)
LOAF CAKES SMALL FANCY CAKES ICINGS
CHAPTER XIV
(Pages 197-211)
BREADS
INDEX
(Pages 213-223)
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LUNCHEONS
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ERRATA[1]
Page 20, line 16, for “gelatines” read “galantines.”
Illustration No. 10, 2, read “Purée Sieve”; 3, read “Fontage or
Swedish timbale irons.”
Page 31, line 8, for “will rise and cover” read “will rise when put
in the hot fat and cover.”
Page 47, last title, for “Creamed Soups” read “Cream Soups.”
Page 71, 4th line from bottom, for “usual” read “original.”
Page 71, 7th line from bottom, for “dilute it” read “diluted.”
Page 73, 2d line from bottom, for “flour” read “water.”
Page 91, 8th line from bottom, for “browned” read “brown.”
Page 119, for “Salads Nos. 6-7-8-9” read “Illustrations Nos. 94, 95,
96, 97.”
Page 135, line 3, for “and moisten” read “moistened.”
Page 143, 2d line from bottom, for “thick” read “whipped.”
Legend of illustration No. 134 read “Strawberry Charlotte No. 2.”
Legend of illustration No. 137 read “Chestnut Purée.”
Page 155, line 6, for “cupful” read “pound.”
Page 162, line 10, for “by placing” read “and.”
Page 168, 7th line from bottom, for “lemon” read “melon.”
Page 169, to receipt for Lemon Ice add, “1 quart of water.”
Page 170, line 4, for “cupful” read “quart.”
Page 175, after title, “Pineapple,” add “Illustration No. 158.”
Page 184, 5th line from bottom, for “icing” read “tracing.”
Page 189, 5th line from bottom, for “box with” read “box and serve
with.”
Page 192, 9th line from bottom, for “coloring” read “covering.”
Page 199, 11th line from bottom, for “double its bulk” read “doubled
in bulk.”
Page 201, 8th line from bottom, for “one quarter of an inch” read
“one and a quarter inches.”
Footnote 1:
Transcriber’s note: these Errata have been applied to this text.
(2018-08-15)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHAPTER I
LUNCHEONS
The midday meal, called luncheon, varies in character from a very
informal service, where the dishes are placed on the table and the
servants leave the room, to one of equal elaboration and formality with
that of a dinner. As this meal is made to conform to convenience, it is
difficult to give general rules, as rules are conventions of ceremony,
and ceremony is sometimes disregarded, as in the case where a larger
number of guests are received than the service of the house admits of
entertaining in other than an informal manner.
Luncheon proper corresponds to what in foreign countries is called the
second breakfast, or _déjeûner à la fourchette_, where people are seated
at the table and served as at dinner. The French breakfast hour,
however, is usually twelve o’clock, while luncheon is an hour or more
later.
[Sidenote: The company]Entertaining at luncheon is as customary as
dinner giving, but ordinarily the company is composed of women alone,
men as a rule not being entertained at this hour, except on holidays or
special occasions.
[Sidenote: Seating the guests]A card with the name of the guest
distinctly written on it designates the place at the table to be
occupied by that guest, and each one finds her place without being
otherwise directed, as the hostess is the last one to enter the
dining-room. If, for any reason, one lady has precedence over the
others, she is placed at the right of the hostess; otherwise the hostess
selects for that seat the one whom she wishes particularly to
compliment. If a stranger is being especially entertained, the other
guests having been invited to meet her, she is given this seat of honor.
The hostess in this case presents her as a new acquaintance to her
friends, who afterward may call upon and extend to her other courtesies.
[Sidenote: Invitations]The invitations for luncheon are the same in form
as for dinner; if the luncheon is a formal entertainment they are
usually written in the third person, or conventionally expressed in the
first person. An informal note is written for informal occasions. Under
no circumstances should a verbal invitation be given.
It is polite to answer an invitation within twelve hours. People who are
in the habit of entertaining are seldom remiss in the courtesy of a
prompt reply, for they have probably experienced the inconvenience of
uncertainty, and the embarrassment of having to fill places at the last
minute, and so are better able to understand the significance of this
social convention.
[Sidenote: Dress]Women wear street costumes or afternoon gowns; they lay
off their wraps, but do not remove their hats. Men should wear afternoon
dress.
[Sidenote: The table]At luncheon a table-cloth is not used if the table
is handsome enough to permit its omission, but often leaves are put in
which have not the same polish as the main table and must be covered
with a cloth. The use of a cloth is, however, a matter of taste, not of
rule.
The polished table requires care to keep it clean and free from stains
and scratches. It should be very frequently rubbed hard with a soft
cloth, and occasionally a little kerosene or furniture polish should be
used; but what is particularly needed is plenty of hard rubbing. A
varnish polish is easily defaced, especially by hot dishes, which leave
white marks that are difficult to eradicate. The table top should have
what is called hand polish. This can be washed without injury, does not
easily stain, heat does not affect it, and with daily care it constantly
grows handsomer. It is better for young housekeepers to start with a
dull mahogany, or oak, than with a shellacked table, which needs
frequent redressing.
[Sidenote: Mats]To protect the table when no table-cloth is used, mats
are placed under the dishes. The plate mats, either square or round, are
seven to nine inches across. Mats are sometimes lined with asbestos,
felt, or other thick material to protect the table better from the heat
of the plates. The mats, as a rule, match the centerpiece, but this is
not obligatory. There is no limit to the variety of centerpieces and
mats. They range from crochet work and embroidered linen to beautiful
laces.
[Sidenote: Decorations]Except the mats, the decorations used are the
same as for the dinner-table, flowers being the chief and always the
most beautiful resource. The decorations should be kept low in order not
to obstruct the view across the table and so make general conversation
impossible.
A large table is more imposing with high centerpieces, and at buffet
luncheons high decorations can be indulged in. The cold dishes used on
such occasions are susceptible of much garnishing, and are made to form
a part of the decoration.
Where a large number of guests are being entertained, as at wedding
breakfasts, or where the luncheon is accessory to some other
entertainment, the guests are frequently seated at small tables placed
throughout the room. In this case, no ornamentation is attempted other
than a few flowers on each table, as anything more would be an
inconvenience.
[Sidenote: Lighting]The lighting of the table requires careful
consideration. Artificial light is not used unless necessary; but a
dark, gloomy table should always be avoided, and if the room is dark
candles should be lighted. Sometimes half the guests face bright
windows, while the faces of those sitting with their backs to the
windows are in shadow. Shaded lights in the chandelier will often remove
this shadow; and, if carefully managed, the gas-lights will not be
disagreeably noticeable. This, together with a careful adjustment of the
curtains, will often equalize the light; but if a blinding glare cannot
thus be overcome, it is better to draw the shades and curtains and light
the candles. In city houses this is frequently done.
[Sidenote: Laying the table]The table is laid as for dinner, except that
bread-and-butter plates are placed at the left of the dinner plates,
each bread-and-butter plate having a small knife laid across it. These
plates are small, and are used for the breads and hors d’oeuvres.
[Sidenote: The food and courses]At luncheon the soup is served in cups,
and, where the guests are seated at the table, roasts are seldom
presented, the meats being served in the form of chops, or individual
portions; otherwise, the service is the same as at dinner.
At buffet luncheons large cold roasts are used, and ordinarily not more
than one or two hot dishes are served, such as bouillon, creamed
oysters, or croquettes. Cold fish, cold joints, gelatines, and salads
make the substantial part of the luncheon. All the dishes, including the
ices, are placed on the buffet table at once, and no order is observed
in respect to courses, each person making his own selection. On these
occasions the gentlemen serve the ladies, and but little extra household
service is needed.
Where the guests are seated at small tables the service is the same as
if all were seated at one table, and a number of servants are required.
There should always be enough waiters to serve the meal quickly. An hour
and a half is the extreme limit of time that guests should be kept at
the table. Seven or eight courses are all that should be presented, and
these should be served quickly, but without apparent haste. The days of
long feasting are passed. People of to-day value their health and time
too much to sit for hours at a time at the table. The meal should be
over before there is any fatigue or dullness; but on the word of
Brillat-Savarin, an accepted authority on gastronomic subjects, it is
safe to detain guests at the table for one hour. He says:
“La table est le seul endroit où l’on ne s’ennuie jamais pendant la
première heure.”
GARNISHING AND DISHING MEATS
One celebrated French chef says: “Il faut viser a charmer les yeux des
gourmet avant d’en satisfaire le goût”; and another, in giving advice to
beginners, says: “A cook should have that artistic feeling which imparts
to everything, great and small, that harmony of style which captivates
the eye.”
This necessity is well recognized by every good cook, and such a one
tries to give dishes the inviting appearance justly demanded by
epicures. It is not necessary that the dish belong to the category which
in cooking parlance is termed “high class,” for the simplest one comes
under the same rule and is capable of being raised to a higher rank by
careful dishing and tasteful garnishing. The greatest cooks are renowned
for such specialties.
It is said of Soyer, “for dishing up he was entitled to celebrity”; and
of Carême, “he excelled in everything requiring perfect taste, and dealt
in a new and very effective manner with the ornamentation of large cold
dishes.”
There is nothing which so quickly indicates the grade of the cook as the
manner in which she serves her dishes. One who has no pride in her work
seldom takes time for ornamentation, though garnishing is the simplest
part of her duty. When, however, attention is given to this branch, even
though the result may not be perfect, it gives promise of better things,
and one may confidently predict for the cook who thus shows desire to do
well that she will attain a higher degree of excellence in her
profession. There is no class of dishes, from breads to desserts, which
are not more appetizing when made attractive in appearance. It has been
said that “eyes do half the eating,” and as no expense need be incurred
in the indulgence of tasteful arrangement of the dishes, there seems to
be no reason why the simplest table should not share with the most
expensive one this element of success. Care, taste, and ingenuity will
do much to remedy the lack of money, and may change the standard of the
table from coarseness to refinement. Many suggestions for decorations
may be found in the show-windows of bakers, pastry-cooks, fishmongers,
and of delicatessen shops. Many of the pieces displayed there may seem
elaborate and difficult to the novice, but they are, in reality, simple
enough when the use of materials is understood.
The word garnishing is used here in a broad interpretation of the term,
meaning the general ornamentation of dishes, whether it be obtained by
form, color, dishing, or by dressing them with those articles called
garnishes.
[Illustration: NO. 198. SODA BISCUITS CUT WITH FLUTED STAMP.]
For example, beginning with breads, embellishment is accomplished by
means of form and color. The form is gained by molding and cutting; the
color, by glazing with egg or sugar. A universal expedient, when short
of bread, is the soda biscuit. These biscuits, when cut in very small
rounds of uniform size, will tempt the scoffer of hot breads; while
large or small crusty rolls, all of exactly the same size, and baked a
golden color, will also make him forget his prejudices and find excuse
in the delicious crust for eating them. But these same biscuits
carelessly cut or molded or baked would offer him no excuse for inviting
dyspepsia. Toast looks more inviting when cut into strips or triangles,
or with the corners neatly cut off if served in whole slices. Any little
thing which indicates care on the part of the cook recommends the dish
to favor and almost guarantees its excellence—on the principle that
straws show which way the wind blows.
For soups, there is to be found, in any cook book, a long list of
garnishes which may be used. Certainly a clear soup is more beautiful
when a few green peas or a few bits of celery increase its brilliancy; a
cream soup is greatly improved by a few small croutons; and so on
through the various classes of dishes.
The garnishes for meat dishes are so various, it may be said that their
only limit is the ingenuity and resources of the cook.
It should be remembered that dishes which are served hot do not permit
of as much garnishing as cold ones. The first requisite in the former is
heat, and this must not be lost by time given to elaborate garnishing.
It does not, however, exclude them from the privilege of being
embellished; for if the garnishes are prepared and ready at hand, it
takes but a minute to put them in place. Hot meat dishes can also rely
on other things to improve their appearance, such as shapeliness and
uniformity; therefore, strict attention should be given to the cutting
and trimming of meats, to the molding of croquettes, of meat-balls, or
of anything served in pieces, and also to the dishing of the same.
After meat is well cut, if a joint, it should be divested of all points
and irregularities, and of cartilage which will interfere with the
carving, and then should be trimmed into a well-balanced and symmetrical
form, attention being given to the matter of its standing squarely and
solidly upon the platter.
Chops and cutlets should be trimmed into uniform size and shape. This
can be done without waste, as the trimmings have their uses. Careful
dressing and trussing is essential for poultry, as the appearance of an
untrussed fowl is enough to destroy the appetite and condemn the dinner.
A fowl should be pressed into a rounded and smooth surface in order to
dissociate the article served from the thing of life.
Meat should be placed exactly in the center of the platter, except in
certain instances where studied irregularity is given for special
garnishing. To place chops or cutlets neatly overlapping one another,
either in rows or in a circle, requires some dexterity, perhaps, but
this is acquired by a very little practice, and such an arrangement not
only helps to keep the meats hot, but is in itself ornamental. The
platter should be in right proportion to the article served upon it. A
large joint on too small a platter gives the same sense of
unsuitableness that an outgrown garment gives to a boy or a girl, and
the carving of this seemingly overgrown joint usually results in
accidents to the table-cloth. Again, too small a platter affords no room
for garnishing.
The color given meat in cooking may be called its secondary garnish,
space being the first. Care should be taken, if it is roasted, that it
be well browned; if it is boiled, that it be white and clean-looking; if
it is fried, that it be not blackened, but a clear lemon color. Poultry
should have a golden color that suggests crispness. It is difficult to
make the mediocre cook understand these points.
Larding also serves an ornamental purpose. Dry meats, like veal, and
oftentimes fowls, are improved in flavor by being larded; and it should
be so done as to make it an ornamental feature. There is no part in the
preparation of dishes easier to perform than larding, and no novice need
hesitate to undertake it.
Hashes and minces can, with very little trouble, be made attractive in
appearance as well as in taste. Hash pressed into a mold, giving it a
ring or a dome shape, then masked or not with a sauce, or simply turned
upon a platter, can be prettily garnished with eggs and greens. Plain
meat-balls and potato- or hominy-balls can be placed together on a
platter with such regard to effect that the dish assumes the character
of an entrée, instead of appearing like a makeshift from left-over
pieces.
The next means after larding in what may be called natural garnishing is
in the employment of gravies and sauces. No article should ever swim in
sauce, but a little can be used with good effect on many dishes. A
venison steak wet with a currant jelly sauce, and just enough of the
sauce poured on the bottom of the platter to color it, gives a glaze and
juicy look to the steak which improves its appearance. A very little
tomato sauce under breaded veal chops or croquettes gives color and
emphasis to the dish. White sauce poured over boiled dishes gives
greater whiteness and often covers defects. In French cooking, much use
is made of masking, which is often done by glazing and by the use of
sauces. As white sauces will make white foods whiter, so brown ones will
make brown ones browner. Fitness must of course be observed. If
crispness is a part of the excellence of a dish, it would not do to
destroy that quality by using a moistening garnish.
Vegetables as garnishes come next in order of suitableness and
convenience. When vegetables are placed on the same platter with meats,
they not only ornament the dish, but contribute to the ease of serving a
dinner. When they are used the dish is called à la jardinière or à la
printanière. Probably every cook knows how to serve mashed or fried
potatoes or green peas in the center of a circle of chops. Similar
combinations can be made in various ways and of many things. Spinach,
beans, carrots, purées, macaroni, spaghetti, or rice may be placed so as
to form a base, raising the chops like a crown, or grouped with them in
rows, or alternating with the individual pieces. Macedoine is a mixture
of any number of vegetables, such as peas, beans of various kinds,
carrot and turnip balls, flowers of cauliflower and any other vegetable
obtainable. They may be mixed together, or each vegetable may be kept
distinct and placed in small piles around the platter. Small portions of
vegetables left over may be used to advantage in this way. Very little
need be used of any one, and any number may be combined on the same
dish. Potatoes boiled or fried can be prepared in many fancy ways to
make them suitable for garnishing. Well-seasoned spinach is excellent
with chops, steaks, or roasts. Browned onions are often used. Meats with
onion garnishes make dishes called à la soubise. Brussels sprouts, hot,
are a suitable garnish for corned beef; or cold, with a French dressing,
are an excellent salad to serve with cold beef. They should not be
over-cooked or they will lose their shape. Stuffed tomatoes may be used
with almost any meat dish.
Vegetable purée, in fancy form, is useful for embellishment, and may
take the place of a fresh vegetable. Purée is made of any vegetable
mashed and seasoned in the same manner as potato. Navy beans, lima
beans, flageolets, and peas, either fresh or dried, are so used. The
purée can be pressed through a pastry-bag into forms simulating roses,
or placed in piles on rounds of toast. Vegetables intended to be eaten
with the meats they garnish should be well seasoned before being placed
on the platter; but where they are to serve only an ornamental purpose,
they may sometimes, as in the case of carrots and turnips, be used
uncooked, as they have a better color and more firmness when raw. These
two vegetables are very useful, as they are obtainable all the year
round. Carrots are particularly pretty when small. Large ones sliced and
then stamped into fancy shapes, combined with turnips treated in the
same way, are frequently used for making designs. Sometimes they are cut
into balls, sometimes are carved into forms simulating roses. It is easy
to make them into cups, using a fluted knife to shape the outside, and
hollowing the center with a potato-scoop. These cups are good for
holding any vegetable or for vegetable salads.
Rice is generally used for borders which are intended to keep creamed
dishes and fricassees in shape. Sausages cut in halves or quarters, or
fried bacon, make a good relish as well as a garnish for many meats;
they are particularly good with egg dishes. Paper frills on protruding
bones serve the excellent purpose of concealing these unsightly ends.
They are easily made by folding a strip of paper lengthwise, then
cutting it down about one and a half inches at intervals of one-eighth
inch on the folded side, thus making a double fringe; next slip one side
up a little, making the fringe round out; and, finally, roll this around
a stick, leaving the openwork in a close spiral. These frills are used
on the bones of a leg of mutton, on ham, on chops, and on drumsticks.
The green garnishes are parsley, watercress, small crisp lettuce leaves,
green lettuce cut into ribbons, chicory, and celery tops. These are all
edible, and all have places where they are especially appropriate.
Parsley, which is most commonly used, is preëminent for convenience,
beauty of leaf, and freshness. In many cases, however, greens which can
be eaten with the dish are preferable, such as watercress with broiled
or fried meats or fish. Parsley may be used with almost everything in
its purely ornamental function, but it can be chopped and sprinkled over
foods for both its flavoring and decorative qualities. A woman who has
mastered the art of making an omelet will usually give it this finishing
touch. Parsley should be very green and crisp, well washed, and dried
with a cloth before being used; it may then be broken into sprigs and
placed at intervals, or formed into a wreath. Sometimes a large bunch,
like a bouquet, may be used with good effect.
[Illustration: NO. 1. LEMONS CUT FOR GARNISHES.]
Lemons, like parsley, have convenience to recommend them, and, like
watercress, are acceptable with fried meats. The acid of lemon is the
best condiment for veal. When they serve the double purpose of garnish
and condiment, they should be cut so the pieces can be taken in the hand
and pressed without soiling the fingers. This is effected by cutting
them in quarters lengthwise, or in halves and then in quarters. In some
instances a half lemon is not too much to serve with one portion, but
ordinarily quarters are sufficient. Slices are useless with meats,
except as ornaments. Illustration No. 1 shows a lemon ready to be
sliced. It has been channeled so as to give the notched edges which make
the slices more ornamental. The illustration also shows a lemon made to
simulate a pig. This form can be used with propriety on a ham or pork
dish. The ears are formed by cutting and raising a triangular slice on
each side of the pointed end, the eyes are made of cloves, the legs and
tail of wooden toothpicks.
[Illustration: NO. 2. EGGS CUT FOR GARNISHES.]
Hard-boiled eggs ornament in a variety of ways. They should be boiled
very hard, then cut with a thin, sharp knife so the slices will be
smooth and the edges clean. Illustration No. 2 shows plain slices, rings
made by slipping the yolk out of slices, an egg cut into quarters and
eighths, a whole yolk set into a ring, and a stuffed egg. Yolks pressed
through a colander and sprinkled over creamed meat and fish dishes,
cream toast, and some other dishes make a beautiful golden covering.
Chopped whites in conjunction with crumbed yolks are used for tracing
designs over salads, minces, and cold pieces.
Pickled beets are a useful and effective garnish. The color gives
decided contrast, and the flavor is a good relish. Sliced beets can be
stamped with vegetable-cutters into fancy shapes, or cut with a knife
into diamonds, cubes, or strips. One can easily have them always at
hand. Two or three boiled beets sliced thin and put into vinegar will
last until all are used, and should be among the stores in the dresser
awaiting the convenience of the cook. Cucumber pickles and gherkins are
equally useful in point of color effects, and in giving piquancy to many
foods. They are used in slices stamped into fancy shapes, or chopped and
arranged in lines or in little heaps. Gherkins are usually left whole,
but may be sliced, giving buttons of color. Capers and olives complete
the list of condiment garnishes, though any pickle may be used with
propriety on cold meat dishes. Illustration No. 3 shows various
garnishes as explained in legend.
Croutons are an indispensable part of hot minced meat dishes, creamed
mixtures, and eggs cooked in various ways. They serve also to ornament
these dishes, which especially require garnishing to make them
presentable. Croutons are pieces of bread browned in butter in a
sauté-pan, or moistened with butter and browned in the oven. Care should
be taken to cut them exactly, the shape depending on the dish with which
they are to be used. For soups they should be quarter-inch cubes; for
minced meats, triangles more or less acute. Circles, squares, and strips
also have their places. The color should be light golden, not dark
brown; the latter color betrays inexperience or carelessness.
[Illustration: NO. 3. GARNISHES.]
1. A carrot cut into cup shape with a fluted knife and filled with
tomato.
2. A lemon cut into basket shape, the center covered with chopped
parsley.
3. A turnip cut into cup shape with fluted knife and filled with green
peas.
4. A carrot cup holding parsley.
5. Graduated slices of carrot holding a sprig of parsley.
6. Olives.
7. Strips of the white of a hard boiled egg arranged in a circle, the
whole yolk placed in the center. The white is cut lengthwise of the egg,
the strips pointed at the ends and sliced so they will lie flat. A small
slice is taken off the yolk to make it stand firm.
8. Cranberries.
9. Slices of celery that are crescent shaped.
10. Sliced pickled beet stamped into various shapes.
11. A gherkin sliced nearly to the end, the slices then spread out to
resemble a leaf.
12. Chopped pickled beet.
13. A bottle of capers.
14. Aspic jelly cut into triangular, square, and diamond shaped pieces
and into small dice.
On the front edge of the board are three pieces of chicken aspic which
is so transparent that the pattern of the paper shows through it.]
Fontage cups holding vegetables are useful for garnishing.
The articles in the following list are used for garnishing meats:
Parsley
Lettuce
Watercress
Chicory
Hard-boiled eggs
Lemons
Pickles
Capers
Olives
Beets
Croutons
Fancy skewers
Paper frills
Vegetables
Mushrooms
Macaroni
Spaghetti
Rice
Potato or purée forms
Sauces
Sausages
Bacon
A cook who has a desire to ornament her dishes can make an infinite
variety of garnishings by combining various things, or by changing the
form and arrangement of any one of them. Most of the articles used are
within the reach of all. It is even not necessary to buy articles
especially for this purpose, for odds and ends left over, or those
standard stores always in the larder, will afford enough material
tastefully to ornament the dishes.
It must be borne in mind that decorations should not be such as will
embarrass the carver.
VEGETABLES
With very few exceptions, vegetables should be served _au naturel_.
Meats require all the aids of skilful handling and tasteful adornment.
Vegetables, on the contrary, have great beauty in themselves, and the
art of the cook cannot rival that of nature. Therefore a few sprigs of
parsley so arranged as to give a finish to the dish are ordinarily
sufficient garnishing. In those cases, however, where the vegetables
lose form and color in cooking, the skill of the cook may be employed to
restore these qualities as far as possible. The more a cabbage can be
made to look like itself, the more attractive it will be. This, at first
thought, may seem a difficult thing to do, but the boiled vegetable can
easily be placed in a cup made of the outside green leaves of the
cabbage, and so, in a measure, present its own beautiful form and color.
Illustration No. 4 shows a plain boiled cabbage mixed with a white sauce
and so arranged.
[Illustration: NO. 4. SAVOY CABBAGE LEAVES HOLDING CREAMED BOILED
CABBAGE.]
The color of this vegetable in its natural state appeals to the esthetic
sense of every artist, and many a beautiful picture has been made of a
field of cabbages; yet the farmer who sees a man sit down with canvas
and brush before his cabbage patch usually regards him as a crank, for
to his untutored mind cabbages are associated only with their utility.
Many housekeepers are equally mistaken in their views about this
vegetable, and consider it coarse food fit to serve only garnished with
apologies. Such opinions are based on error, however, for the cabbage is
both beautiful to look at and delicious to eat. There are many receipts
for cooking cabbage which make it as delicate a dish as cauliflower.
[Illustration: NO. 5. SPINACH GARNISHED WITH WHITE OF HARD BOILED EGG
AND CROUTONS.]
In the case of spinach, since the form cannot be preserved, recourse is
had to molding; the color also may be heightened by contrast with other
colors. Illustration No. 5 shows spinach molded by being pressed into a
basin decorated with the whites of hard-boiled eggs, and with croutons
placed around the form after it is unmolded. Both the eggs and the
croutons improve the taste of the spinach. The basin was first buttered
to hold the egg in place while the design was being arranged. Crumbed
yolk of hard-boiled egg sprinkled over spinach is another garnishing for
this vegetable which enhances its green color and gives the dish a
better appearance.
[Illustration: NO. 6. ASPIC OF GREEN PEAS.]
There are many ways of cooking any vegetable. These various ways may
serve for change, but few of them are better than the simple one of
boiling and serving with a suitable sauce. Attention should be given to
dishing vegetables so that there is no appearance of their having been
turned carelessly on to the platter. A neatly folded napkin can be used
under dry, unseasoned vegetables, like asparagus, artichokes, or corn.
The napkin gives daintiness to the dish, and in the case of corn, when
folded over it, helps to keep it hot.
COLD DISHES
It has been said above that discrimination should be made in garnishing
dishes; those to be served hot, for instance, should go directly from
the fire to the table, and not be allowed to become cool while being
elaborately garnished; on the other hand, cold dishes demand no haste
and permit of so much elaboration that at suppers and buffet luncheons
they are depended upon largely for table decoration.
The accomplished cook considers the work on cold pieces an opportunity
for giving examples of his skill, and the ornamentation of molds and
chaud-froids a kind of fancy work which requires nicety and taste. Under
the head of cold dishes come all the salads, the pâtés, galantines, cold
fish dishes, ices, and sweets. In each of these there is range in which
to display culinary accomplishments. The skill requisite for moderate
adornment of these dishes is not so great that one need hesitate to
undertake them. Cold dishes are often more gratefully received in summer
than hot ones, therefore it is desirable that every cook should be able
to serve them in attractive forms. Again, from an economic point of view
they are desirable, as meats can be served a second time in cold forms
quite as acceptably as before.
Many meats, when served cold, require to be boned and pressed into good
shape. Ordinary kitchen boards weighted down serve very well for a
press. The meat, while hot, is put into molds, or is rolled in cloth,
the ends tied, and then placed in the press. Small muffin-rings can be
used for sweetbreads, bread-tins or oval molds for other meats.
Chaud-froid sauce is often spread over galantines, and jellied
mayonnaise over cold fish. On this smooth surface the decoration is laid
in some design traced in fancy cuts of truffle, or in a combination of
white of egg with truffles, cold tongue, olives, and other suitable
things which give color. See illustration No. 114.
Aspic jelly is a principal reliance for covering cold pieces. It is not
masking in this case, for the jelly should be perfectly transparent,
while masking conceals the material of which the dish is composed. Aspic
is also cut into small triangles or in squares to make borders, and is
sometimes chopped and used for decoration. See illustration No. 3. Aspic
is no longer one of the difficult preparations reserved for the hand of
the very experienced cook. Any of the beef or chicken extracts stiffened
with gelatine, and seasoned and cleared if necessary, make good aspic.
The preparation is as simple as that of any jelly. A little care,
however, in molding and handling is requisite for good results. Jellied
vegetables are appropriate to use with jellied or other cold meats.
Small cups are used for molding them, and the pieces can be made very
ornamental. See illustration No. 6. The small forms placed around meat
and served with a green salad make an attractive cold course.
[Illustration: NO. 7. FANCY SKEWERS FOR GARNISHING COLD MEAT OR FISH
DISHES.
1. Mushroom, Cranberry, or Olive, whole Hard Boiled Egg, Cranberry,
Mushroom.
2. Cranberry or Olive. Prawn, Quarter of Lemon. Prawn, Cranberry, or
Olive.
3. Mushroom with Stem. Notched Slice of Lemon. Cranberry or Olive.
Lemon, Cranberry, or Olive.]
Fancy skewers are much employed on cold meats. Their office is purely
ornamental, so when they are used trouble is not to be considered. A
fancy-headed skewer is run through, perhaps, a fine red cockscomb, then
a truffle, then a fancy cut of lemon, or a mushroom, or a carved
vegetable. Truffles in combination with vegetables molded in aspic and
quenelles also are often used. If all these things are impracticable,
one can devise combinations more easily obtained. A trussing needle can
be utilized, concealing the head in a section of lemon and building down
with carrot and turnip in alternating colors and shapes, and perhaps
using a crawfish, an egg, or an olive in the combination. See
illustration No. 7. French authors recommend that these skewers be
employed only occasionally, so that they may not lose the attraction
which novelty gives them.
Cracked, crushed, or ground ice can often be used with good effect. It
gives crispness to olives, celery, radishes, and cucumbers, and enhances
the beauty of the dish as well. With raw oysters it is indispensable,
and with melons very desirable. A free use of ice on the summer
breakfast table will go far toward inviting an appetite for that meal.
It is well to remember that although great elaboration is possible in
cold dishes, it is not necessary, and dishes can be made very attractive
without chaud-froid, aspic, or traced designs. If the pieces are
shapely, they will look well if simply sprinkled with chopped parsley,
chopped white of egg, or the crumbed yolks, and dressed with any of the
green salads. Flowers also can be used to aid in adornment.
[Illustration: NO. 8. BOILED FISH IN SWIMMING POSITION.]
FISH
As fish dishes rank with any other kind in point of attractiveness, and
are open to almost as great a variety of garnishing as are meats, the
same general remarks apply to them. The matter of shape and color here,
too, has to be considered. A boiled fish dropping to pieces from
over-cooking, or bereft of its head or tail, is an unsightly dish. It is
permitted to serve fish _au naturel_, even going so far as to simulate
swimming. This is done by propping it with a whole carrot laid inside,
which gives the fish enough rigidity to stand upright. Illustration No.
8 shows a fish served in this way. The garnishing is white rings of
hard-boiled egg, holding sprigs of parsley, laid along the back. A slice
of lemon sprinkled with and surrounded by parsley, giving the effect of
a medallion, is placed against the side of the fish. A fish to be baked
may be twisted like the letter S to make it stand upright. A boiled
fish, whether served whole or in part, should appear clean. No scum from
the kettle should be suffered to remain on it, and no water should drip
from it into the platter. A folded napkin is usually placed under boiled
fish to insure dryness.
Boiled potatoes are ordinarily served with boiled fish, and may be used
for garnishing, if cut into balls and cooked so that they are very white
and mealy. Parsley gives color and also a sense of freshness. It may be
used in large bunches, especially when the fish is cut, or on creamed
fish dishes.
[Illustration: NO. 9. BOILED SECTION OF FISH COVERED WITH WHITE SAUCE
AND GARNISHED WITH CHOPPED PARSLEY AND POTATO BALLS.]
Illustration No. 9 shows a middle cut of fish with potato and parsley
decoration. The fish being cod, the flesh is not sufficiently white to
be attractive, and so it is masked with white sauce, then sprinkled with
chopped parsley. Had the fish been halibut, the sauce would have been
omitted. Hard-boiled eggs are an excellent accompaniment for boiled
fish, and when not used in the sauce may be supplied in the garnishing.
Creamed fish is pretty with the top made golden with crumbed yolks.
Fried fish should have a lemon color and look clean, dry, and bright,
not black or greasy. The color is secured by dipping them in milk, then
rolling in flour and frying in smoking-hot fat; or, if eggs and crumbs
are used, having white, fresh crumbs grated from the stale loaf. Fish to
be fried is often cut into slices, or into fillets, but small fish need
not be cut and so lose their character. Smelts are sometimes turned into
rings, or are laid open and the head drawn through a slit cut in the
back. Different ways of dressing them give variety, and make dishes
ornamental from form alone. If potatoes are served with fried fish, they
should be cut into balls and fried. Lemons are indispensable with fried
or broiled fish. They are frequently sliced, but are better cut in
quarters so as to give more of the juice, which is needed for condiment.
Lemon sprinkled with chopped parsley is very pretty.
Broiled fish is improved by being spread with maître d’hôtel butter.
This gives it a moist appearance, and is the best possible sauce for it;
at the same time the parsley in the sauce helps to garnish the dish.
Watercress placed around the fish completes the garnishing and makes the
dish perfect. Lemon and watercress are the best condiments for any fried
or broiled dish. Baked fish will not bear more than a few sprigs of
parsley as garnishing.
Lobster coral is much esteemed on account of its brilliant color, and
when lobster is served it is well to use it as a garnish. It may be
sprinkled over the whole surface of a lobster dish, or be arranged in
lines or dots as the circumstances suggest. Shrimps, prawns, and
crawfish make good garnishes for any fish, whether it is served hot or
cold.
When dishes are to be passed, the dishing and garnishing should be such
that the portions are easily distinguishable.
An amusing story is told by a scientist of the predicament in which he
was placed when the guest of honor at an English table. He was a man of
simple habits in his home, and was very near-sighted. Elaborately
garnished dishes were passed to him first, as he sat at the right of the
host, and he had to break the construction of what he was pleased to
call architectural or master-builder’s dishes, and this without knowing
where their keystone lay, or of what they were composed. He was thus
obliged to make public exhibition of his awkwardness, as well as betray
ignorance in that branch of his own business, which left him unable to
recognize biological specimens when they had evolved into their highest
development in the hands of the cook. This story serves as an important
hint that no dish should be entirely disguised. A lobster should still
be a lobster in form or suggestion, however it is prepared. For example,
should it be served in chops, a claw pressed into one end would not only
carry out the form of a chop, but would also designate the dish. There
is generally something that can be reserved from an article which loses
its shape in cooking that may be used to garnish the dish and act as a
kind of label.
The garnishes are:
FOR VEGETABLES
Parsley
Hard-boiled eggs
Croutons
FOR COLD MEATS
Parsley
Leaves of any of the salads
Cold vegetables in fancy cuts
Hard-boiled eggs
Stuffed eggs
Pickles of any kind
Capers
Olives
Lemons
Jellied vegetables
Aspic jelly
Truffles
Chaudfroid sauce
Fancy skewers
Flowers
Ice
FOR FISH
Parsley
Lettuce
Watercress
Croutons
Hard-boiled eggs
Lemons
Pickles
Capers
Potato purée and balls
Lobster coral and claws
Crawfish
Prawns
Shrimps
POTATOES
Potatoes are a universal dish, and there are an infinite variety of ways
of cooking them: boiling, baking, frying, all manner of ways to suit all
manner of people, and to accompany all kinds of meats. Yet, strange as
it may seem, it is the food usually the worst cooked of any that is
presented. The potatoes are too often soggy, greasy, blackened, burned.
The poor cook seems determined to destroy both the favor and flavor of
this useful vegetable. The potato is mostly starch, and it is not as
well known as it should be that the principle of cooking starch is to
cook it only until the starch grains burst, and then remove it from
moisture, for the starch grains, when open, readily absorb moisture and
become soggy. Hence we see this vegetable a most delicious dish or one
unfit to eat, according to the skill of the cook. Mashed potato is
served from the simplest kitchen, but betrays the poor cook as quickly
as a greasy soup. Sometimes one sees an attempt made to improve the
appearance of this dish by pressing and smoothing it over the top. This
makes a hard and compact mass of what ought to be a light and flaky
substance. Often it is served in a deep dish, which is another mistake;
for the potato, when light and white, is tempting enough to serve on a
flat dish where it may be seen. Potatoes that are to be served in this
way should be mashed the moment they are cooked, and not set aside for a
more convenient time. They may then be moistened with milk or cream and
be seasoned with butter, pepper, and salt, in measure to the richness
desired, and whipped until, like the whites of eggs, they become white
and spongy from the air imprisoned in the cells. Mashed potato may be
served in a great variety of ways. It can be run through the menu from
soup to salad; can be used for entrées, and can make ornamental fancy
dishes out of even minces and stews. It is invaluable as a mask for
broken dishes; for instance, a leg of mutton can be made a presentable
dish to serve a second time by filling the cut with mashed potato. In
this case it must be molded to the shape of the roast and be painted
with egg over the top, so it will take color and not betray the patch.
Such expedients are at times admissible and should not be scorned. It
has been wisely said that “if there is not economy in the kitchen there
will soon be no kitchen.”
When potato is made into cakes, timbales, or croquettes, it must have
egg mixed through it, else it will lose its form when cooked the second
time. When used as borders for minces or creamed dishes, it can be
turned into shape with a knife, be lightly pressed into a mold to give
it form, or be pressed through a pastry-bag and tube into fancy forms.
Frying is perhaps the method of cooking potatoes which requires the most
skill. Fried balls, slices, or straws are always excellent with broiled
meats, and at the same time are the best garnish for them. The height of
skill is reached in the soufflé. These small balloons are something of a
marvel, and are seldom seen except from the hand of a French cook. The
amateur seldom succeeds with this dish, yet it is one worthy of the
practice which makes perfect. To prepare the delectable soufflé, the
potato is cut lengthwise, or with the grain; the slices must be one
eighth of an inch in thickness and taken off with one clean, sharp cut,
then trimmed to uniform shapes, either elliptical or round. The slices
are soaked in cold water and dried with a cloth at the moment of
cooking. They are immersed in fat just below the smoking-point, and
cooked for five minutes, or until softened; are then drained and allowed
to cool for a little time in an open oven, and then immersed a second
time in fat which is very hot, when the slices at once puff and brown.
They should be served at once.
[Illustration: NO. 10. UTENSILS. 1. Baking sheet. 2. Fontage or Swedish
timbale irons. 3. Purée sieve. 4. Pastry brush. 5. Two pastry bags made
of rubber cloth, the larger one holding a star tube. 6. Tubes for pastry
bags with plain, round, and star openings of different sizes. The last
four on the right are small tubes for icing cake in ornamental designs.]
[Illustration: NO. 12. CUTTERS AND MOLDS. 1. A nest of long vegetable
cutters making pencil-shaped pieces of different sizes. 2, 3, 4. Bread
and cake cutters in the forms of a heart, a spade, and a clover leaf. 5.
Individual timbale molds. 6. Pastry cutter for vol-au-vents. 7. Form for
molding lobster or fish chops. 8, 9. Small plain round, and fluted
cutters for tiny biscuits or for garnishes. 10. A group of fancy cutters
for sliced vegetables to be used in macedoine, in soup, or as garnishes.
11. A smaller cutter used for truffles and hard boiled eggs. 12. Cake
cutter in form of crescent. 13. Three vegetable scoops. 14. Fluted knife
for cutting fluted slices of vegetables, turnip cups, etc. 15. A
spatula, or dull edged flexible knife. 16. Small molds for aspics or
other jellies used for garnishing.]
[Illustration: NO. 13. RING MOLDS.]
Potato straws are very attractive and seem so light and harmless that
those who ordinarily reject fried dishes are tempted by them. They are
cut lengthwise of the tuber, first in slices about one eighth of an inch
in thickness, and then into straws the length of the slices. They cook
very quickly in smoking-hot fat, and must not be left in so long as to
become brown and dry. They should be crisp and of a lemon color. The
straws can be cut of a larger size if desired, and are especially pretty
if cut with a fluted knife.
It seems desirable to suggest to housekeepers the feasibility of making
a specialty of cooking potatoes, and with them to give variety, which is
so acceptable to those who sit at their board. Perhaps no other one
thing is susceptible to so many changes, and is so simple to prepare, is
so satisfactory when properly served, and withal so nutritious. It
answers both the substantial and the esthetic requirements of the
perfect meal; it can be suitably served for breakfast, dinner, supper,
and luncheon; it is within the reach of all.
CREAM
Whipped cream often makes the best sauce for a dessert dish, and can be
used as a garnish. Its use need not be considered an extravagance. A
half-pint of double cream is all that is usually called for, this costs
but ten cents, and often the use of cream saves the use of butter, in
the same way that water can sometimes be substituted for milk if a
little butter is added to the receipt to give the richness which milk
imparts.
CAKE
Decorating cakes takes a little time, but facility is soon acquired, and
the time is not misspent, as the cakes, before being served, can be used
to ornament the table.
THE PASTRY-BAG
The pastry-bag is a cornucopia-shaped pocket made of rubber cloth, of
duck, or of any closely woven fabric like ticking. The point of the
cornucopia is cut off and a tin tube pressed into the small opening. The
bags made of rubber cloth are the best, as they do not allow moisture to
come through, and are easily cleaned. They cost fifteen cents each, and
can be bought at house-furnishing stores, but bags can be easily made at
home.
The tubes cost ten cents each, are of graduated sizes, and have
various-shaped openings.
The pastry-bag is easy to handle, and is of great utility where
ornamental dishes are desired. It is used for mashed vegetables,
meringues, whipped cream, drop cake mixtures, icing, etc.
A tube, with opening of suitable size, is fitted into the small end of
the bag, the mixture is then put in, and the bag, gathered over close to
the material, is held and pressed with one hand while the tube is guided
with the other, leaving the material squeezed through it in the forms
desired. It needs but very little practice to make ornamental designs.
It is well to have at least two bags, one of them large, with a large
tube, to hold mixtures used in quantity, and one small for decorating
with icing.
FONTAGE CUPS
1 cupful of flour,
½ teaspoonful salt,
Yolks of 2 eggs,
Milk or water.
Add enough milk to a cup of flour to make a thin batter, then add the
salt and the beaten yolks. The batter must be smooth and quite thin. Use
a small bowl deep enough to immerse the fontage iron.
Have deep fat smoking hot. Place the iron in the fat to heat it. Dip the
hot iron into the batter, covering it to within a quarter of an inch of
the top; the batter will rise when put in the hot fat and cover the
whole iron. Hold the iron in the batter for a minute, or until a little
of the batter has hardened around it, then lift it carefully, holding
the iron so the batter will not slip off. Immerse it in the hot fat and
cook until light-colored.
After a few trials one will be able to make the cups even and thin. They
are also called Swedish timbales, and are used for holding any kind of
creamed mixtures, or for holding vegetables. They can be used as an
entrée, or for garnishing other dishes. The cups will keep for some
time, but in this case should be freshened by heating before being used;
and, as they soften quickly, the mixture should not be replaced in them
until the moment of serving. Illustration No. 10 shows fontage irons.
[Illustration: NO. 11. DIFFERENT WAYS OF PREPARING BUTTER.]
DIFFERENT WAYS OF PREPARING BUTTER
Numbers one, two, and three are made by pressing butter through a
pastry-bag with star-tube. In No. 1 it is cut in three-inch lengths; in
No. 2 it is pressed into long pencils and cut when cold into one-inch
lengths; and in No. 3 it is made into rosettes by holding the tube still
until the butter has piled up to the size desired. These are good forms
for fresh butter, and they should be made as soon as the butter is
churned and worked, as it is soft enough then to pass through the tube.
If salted butter is used, it must be whipped with a fork until it is
soft and light before being pressed through the bag. The forms must be
dropped at once into ice-water to harden them. Serve the pieces in a
dish with cracked ice and green leaves. Parsley will do if nothing
better is at hand. Rose leaves are especially pretty, or a lettuce leaf
may be used as a kind of basket.
No. 4 are shell-shaped pieces made with a bent, fluted utensil made for
the purpose (see illustration No. 5, opposite page 256, “Century Cook
Book”). The utensil is dipped in hot water, wiped dry, and then drawn
lightly over the butter, making a thin shaving which curls over as the
utensil is drawn along. The crook must be dipped in hot water and wiped
clean each time.
Butter molded into fancy shapes and served in this way is very
attractive.
MEASURES AND TERMS
1 cupful means half a pint.
1 teaspoonful of salt or spices means an even teaspoonful.
1 tablespoonful of flour, butter, etc., means a rounding spoonful.
Sauté means to cook in a pan with a little butter or drippings.
Frying means cooking by immersion in hot fat.
Blanching almonds means taking off the skins.
This is done by letting them lie in boiling water until the skins are
loosened.
[Illustration: NO. 14. PAPER FRILLS. PAPER BOXES. CAKE DECORATIONS.
1. Pleated paper frill for concealing a baking dish.
2. Frill for leg-of-mutton bone.
3. Frills on wooden toothpicks for croquettes.
4. Frills for chop bones.
5. Board holding on a lace paper confectioners’ roses, of different
colors, and other flowers for decorating cake.
6. Paper box holding silvered candy pellets for decorating cake.
7. Paper boxes for ices, or mixtures of creamed meats, or eggs.
8. Paper boxes for holding small iced cakes or candied fruits.]
[Illustration: NO. 15. CASSEROLES AND BAKING DISHES. 1. A white china
dish for holding creamed oysters, etc., or to hold a smaller dish which
has been in the oven.
2, 3. Oblong and round baking dishes of glazed pottery, brown on the
outside, white in the inside, which can be sent to the table.
4. Pipkin, to use the same as a casserole.
5. Casserole.
6, 7. Brown-ware dishes for shirred eggs.
8. China cups for individual creamed dishes.
9. Small casserole.]
[Illustration: NO. 16 ICE PLANE.]
[Illustration: NO. 17. HORS D’OEUVRES. Hors d’oeuvres are relishes which
are passed between the courses.
1. Olives.
2. Small heart stalks of celery and radishes in the same dish.
3. Curled celery. The celery is cut in two-inch lengths, which are
scored across the ribbed side and then cut in narrow strips down to a
quarter of an inch of one end. The pieces are then placed in cold water
to make them curl.
4. Radishes cut in fancy shapes.
5. Pim-olas (olives stuffed with red peppers).]
Blanching sweetbreads means whitening them by pouring cold water on them
immediately after the hot water is poured off. A scale and a half-pint
tin cup are indispensable cooking utensils, as the success of many
dishes depends on exact weight and measurements.
Except in a few cases, receipts given in “Century Cook Book” are not
repeated here.
ORDER OF COURSES
_First Course_ Fruits
Cocktails
Canapés
Oysters on the half shell
Clams on the half shell
_First or Second Soup
Course_
_First, Second, or Eggs
Third Course_
_Fourth Course_ Shell-fish
Lobsters
Fish
_Fifth or Seventh Entrées
Course_
_Sixth Course_ Meats
Vegetables
Cereals used as vegetables
Chicken
_Seventh Course_ Punches
Fruit
Cheese dishes
Entrées
_Eighth Course_ Game
Salads
Cold service
Cheese
_Ninth Course_ Hot desserts
Cold desserts
Pies
Tarts
_Tenth Course_ Ices
Cake
_Eleventh Course_ Fruits
Candies
_Twelfth Course_ Black coffee
Tea
Liqueurs
BEVERAGES SERVED AT LUNCHEON
Table waters
Cups
Wines
------------------------------------------------------------------------