sorts—can be easily and cheaply grown from seed and will give blossoming
plants almost as soon as those started from bulbs. When one must buy
plants and the fine new varieties are desired, the starting of an
eight-or ten-foot bed is a matter for economical consideration. Five or
six dollars is as little as one can expect to pay for such a bed if
plants are purchased, but by starting the seed the cost is reduced to a
mere bagatelle. It is better to buy seed by the ounce, as not all will
come up, and one should make sure of a sufficient quantity. The seed
must be filed on the end opposite the germ, so that the white shows
through plainly, and the best way to do it is to tack a piece of medium
sand-paper to a piece of wood and rub the seed on that. It is better to
do this before they are wanted, as it is a tedious process when one is
in a hurry. Soak the seeds in hot water for an hour or two before
planting and sow in hotbed or flat, keeping moist and warm. When large
enough to handle, prick out in thumb-pots and place in a warm, sunny
window. It would be even better to start them in tiny pots, plunged in a
box of sand or in the hotbed, to avoid danger in removing, as they
sometimes suffer in the process. Though one of the toughest plants when
of some size, the little seedlings are exceedingly tender. Shift as
needed until time to place in the open ground when all danger of frost
is past. Plant, if possible, in muck well manured, as Cannas do
exceptionally well in that soil and can scarcely have too much food and
water. Unless one has city water or other supply it is better to make
the Canna bed somewhat lower than the lawn, that all the water may be
retained and not run off, as it will if the beds are raised. If
tall-growing varieties are grown in the centre the effect will be as
good as though the bed were raised and less water will be needed. A good
mulch of lawn clippings will help to keep the soil moist, mellow, and
free from weeds and will greatly lessen the care of it. Seed sown in
February or March will give blooming plants in June, and by fall there
will be a fine lot of roots to store away for another year.
Coleus, which are practically indispensable in all ornamental bedding,
are easily raised from seed and will make fine plants by June. Start
seed in rather deep flats in the house in February or March, covering
lightly and giving a warm place (see directions for growing house-plants
from seed). They germinate in from five to seven days. As soon as the
plants have their first true leaves place in a warm, sunny window and
encourage them to grow as rapidly as possible. When they have two or
three leaves the colours will be sufficiently developed to admit of
making selections, and if the box is at all crowded they can be potted
off and grown on until time to plant out. Coleus are very sensitive to
cold and should not be planted out in the open ground until the nights
are warm. Never allow the Coleus to flower, as this injures the foliage
greatly. Pinch out the flower heads as they appear. Water liberally and
pinch back occasionally to symmetrical form. Any soil that suits the
Canna, or other ornamental foliage plant, will do for the Coleus—a
light, sandy loam enriched with manure is as good as anything, and
leaf-mould answers admirably.
Where a quantity of Cineraria, or Dusty Miller, is needed for borders,
it is much more economical to grow from seed, starting them in hotbeds
and planting out when all danger of frost is past, setting six inches
apart.
Ricinus, or Castor-oil Bean
Probably the most effective and tropical-looking plant in cultivation
to-day is the Ricinus, and fortunately it is within the reach of
everyone. It is usually seen as a solitary specimen on the lawn, or as
the centre of a bed of other plants, or probably in a long row; it is
more effective, however, in a group, and thus grown makes a good
background for low plants. Seed should be started early in house or
hotbeds. It germinates in twelve to fifteen days. The best results will
be obtained when started in the house by planting in three-or four-inch
pots. Put two or three seeds in a pot and remove all but one if more
come up. Before filling the pots with earth mixed with good compost, a
piece of shard, or flat stone, should be placed over the drainage hole
to confine the roots, as they make a very rapid growth. Shift into
larger pots as required, and plant out when all danger of frost is past
in a deep, rich soil. Marsh earth is best, but where this is not
available any good garden soil will answer if heavily manured and well
watered. The young plants are somewhat backward after transplanting and
frequently refuse to grow at all, so that it is well to have a few
plants in reserve against a possible emergency. After the plants are a
foot high, little if any trouble will be experienced. The newer Zanzibar
varieties are the most desirable, being very fine both in colour and
development, growing under favourable conditions from eight to ten feet
tall with leaves three feet in diameter.
[Illustration: SHIFT INTO LARGER POTS AS REQUIRED]
Banana plants are very showy and attractive and in the North are more or
less of a novelty. They may be planted out in the open ground or in tubs
when all danger of frost is over. Though less sensitive to root
disturbance than the Ricinus, they are very impatient of the immediate
presence of other plants, and young plants should be grown by
themselves. Robust two-year-old plants, however, may be used as centres
for beds of Cannas or similar plants with fine effect. When obtainable
they should be given a compost of muck and old manure and supplied with
a very liberal amount of water; the water from the laundry and kitchen
should be saved for them, as one can scarcely overfeed them. Give a
warm, sunny situation, protected from rough winds, which whip and tear
the broad leaves, rendering them most unsightly. A southeast angle of
building or shrubbery furnishes an ideal location. In the fall the
plants may be removed to the cellar in the tubs in which they have been
grown, or they may be lifted, if grown in the open ground, and planted
in suitable tubs for the adornment of the conservatory or living-room.
Grown indoors they are very ornamental, the foliage being perfect, which
is rarely the case out of doors. It is also much easier to carry the
plants through the winter in this way; as they are very sensitive to
cold and damp when dormant and cannot be carried successfully in a
cellar where these conditions exist, even though it be free from frost.
In the South—and the same method may be employed in the North, provided
the cellar conditions are right—the plants are dug up, the soil removed,
and the roots wrapped in gunny-sacks and laid on a shelf in the cellar,
all the leaves being removed except the central one, which must be
carefully protected from all injury.
Chapter _THIRTEEN_
Bulbous and Tuberous-rooted Plants
Cannas may be started any time in April or May. The old-fashioned
tall-growing varieties may be put in the open ground early in May. Cover
with three or four inches of soil and protect the bed with a little
rough manure if the nights are cold, the finest of the manure being left
to enrich the soil when the plants are up.
The large-flowering French and Orchid-flowered Cannas are delicate and
very sensitive to cold and damp and should be started in the house with
heat. Divide the roots into points and pot separately in leaf-mould, or
they may be placed in baskets of sand set in a warm, sunny place and
kept constantly moist; this is the simplest and best way of handling
them. Cannas are less likely to mould or decay in sand than in soil, and
it is easier to keep a uniform degree of moisture in the baskets than in
the small pots. The baskets should be partly filled with fine white sand
and the roots laid in place, points up, as closely as convenient, and
sufficient sand added to cover them. They must not be planted out until
all danger of frost is past and the nights are warm, and they should
then be handled very carefully to avoid injuring the tender roots. Give
them a soil of muck or heavily manured loam and abundance of water. The
most convenient place for starting bulbs of all kinds is a warm upstairs
room, over a kitchen or elsewhere, with a south or west light. A wide
shelf may be arranged under the windows and one’s entire supply of bulbs
started there in pots and baskets out of the way. Seeds of flowers and
vegetables may also be started there to advantage.
Dahlias are best started in the baskets of sand, putting the bunches in
whole, with the crown just below the surface of the sand. When they have
sprouted and the weather is warm they should be removed from the sand
and carefully divided. A number of tubers will have failed to start,
while others will have thrown several shoots. If the number of plants is
not sufficient more may be secured by grafting part of the green shoots
into the dormant toes. Remove a shoot, cut the end to a wedge shape,
remove a corresponding wedge from the crown of a toe and insert the
shoot; it should rest in the toe an inch or more and be placed in the
ground at once—drawing the earth around it snugly that the scion may be
in no danger of separating from the toe before it has formed a union.
Only one shoot should be left on a tuber, and the removal of the extra
ones for grafting is a distinct gain. Whenever it is necessary to divide
the roots a portion of the stem with a well-defined eye must be given to
each division, otherwise there will be no top growth; the toes will
root, but they will not grow. For further directions see chapter on
growing Dahlias from seed.
Caladium esculentum, or Elephant’s Ears, is a native of the Sandwich
Islands, where it furnishes a staple article of food called Poa. The
root when cooked is like a potato. It is better to start separately in
pots an inch larger than the bulbs, setting the top of the bulb just
above the surface of the soil. Pot with muck or good compost and keep
moist and warm. They respond to heat and moisture the most readily of
all dormant bulbs, beginning to grow at once and making steady progress,
the root growth keeping step with the top much more uniformly than is
usual with bulbs that are wintered dry. It is an ideal plant for the
amateur, as easily grown as a hill of corn. If fine plants are desired
only those bulbs showing a live centre-shoot should be used. If the
winter conditions have been favourable the bulbs will show a strong
centre-shoot or rolled-up leaf; where this has decayed or dried off
there will frequently be side-shoots which are worth saving when the
supply of bulbs is small, and which will produce fair results, but for
really good plants the centre-shoot is necessary.
Plant out when all danger of frost is past, in muck if possible, or in
heavily manured loam; the more freely they are watered the finer will be
the growth. Old bulbs should give leaves three feet or more in length
and correspondingly wide.
Single specimens are fine in pots, vases, or tiles, but they are really
seen at their best in large clumps on the lawn, or edging beds of Cannas
or other subtropical plants.
They are easily wintered and multiply very rapidly; and, as much better
effects can be obtained by planting largely of one variety, an effort
should be made to have a generous supply. Aim for a tropical luxuriance
of effect—whether the plants used are Cannas, Caladiums, Ricinus, or all
three.
Tuberous Begonias should be started at the same time as the Caladiums,
Cannas, and other tuberous plants. Pot singly in small pots of
leaf-mould, setting the tuber level with the surface of the earth, but
shaping the soil away from it toward the edge of the pot that water may
not settle around it. The side showing a slight depression is the top.
Often it is difficult to determine this, in which case the bulb may be
laid on the surface until growth begins and the fact can be determined,
when it may be potted. Do not keep too warm, as that induces a leggy
growth; a temperature of about 60° is right.
Bed out, when all danger of frost is past, in partial shade. In England
it is claimed that they will stand the hottest sun, but the atmosphere
of England is very different from our dry air, and the tuberous Begonia
does better with us if shaded. Where there is no natural shade an awning
of cotton cloth during the hottest part of the day answers every
purpose. Gloxinias are started the same as tuberous Begonias and require
practically the same treatment, but more heat. Fuller cultural
directions are given in the chapter on growing from seed.
Fancy-leaved Caladiums, though belonging to the same family as C.
esculentum, bear little resemblance to that sturdier branch, being small
in growth, gorgeous in colouring, and exceedingly delicate. Unlike the
Crotons and Coleus, which revel in full sunshine, they develop their
beautiful colours best in partial or complete shade. They do, however,
love a warm atmosphere and must be guarded against sudden chills and
draughts. They are very desirable for window-boxes on the north side of
the house, for growing in sheltered nooks, and for warm, sheltered
positions on porches. Several may be grouped together in a ten-inch pot
very effectively, as they require but little room. They may be brought
inside in the fall, and kept growing until they show signs of resting,
when water should be gradually withheld until the leaves have ripened.
The pots should then be set away in a warm, dry place—as a shelf in a
closet—until wanted the following spring.
Such wonderful things have been accomplished in Gladiolus culture that
one scarcely recognises the old favourite. All along the line, size,
colour, texture, markings show the effect of a high state of cultivation
and careful hybridising. The Childsi are, perhaps, the finest; while
several of the strains of giant Gladiolus show wonderful size and
colour. They increase rapidly, and one should buy a few bulbs each year
so as to maintain a high standard.
When ready to plant, remove all loose husks, dead roots, and stalks,
leaving the bulb clean and fair. Plant directly in the open ground,
sufficiently late for frost to have gone by the time they are up. Plant
the bulbs eight inches deep in fine leaf-mould, or a mixture of muck,
loam and old manure, or even well-enriched garden loam. Planted deeply
they will not need staking—an important point in growing Gladioli; nor
will they be so much affected by cold, heat, or draught as in the case
of shallow planting, and may be planted earlier and left much later in
the fall, giving the bulbs more time to ripen.
They should be cultivated frequently during the summer or well mulched
and supplied with water as needed. No seed should be allowed to form, as
the plants make new bulbs each year, sometimes several, and that, with
the production of flowers, is enough for one plant. A plant that seeds
freely will not produce as many or as good bulbs. Take up in the fall
before the ground begins to freeze, and put in a warm, sunny place for a
few days to dry. Remove the stems by cutting off six or eight inches
above the bulb, but do not attempt to pull or break them, as that will
injure the new shoot which lies just inside the old stalk. Tie in
bunches and hang in a dry, cool place, free from frost, or store in
paper sacks.
Montbretias resemble the Gladioli in flower and foliage, but are very
slender of growth. They throw long, graceful sprays of brilliant
scarlet, orange, and lemon, very desirable for cut flowers. The flowers
open successively, as do the Gladioli, and are in bloom a long time.
They may be grown in the corners of the Gladiolus bed with good effect.
The culture is the same, except that the Montbretias are not planted so
deeply—about three inches. They multiply very rapidly—about fourfold,
and are as easily cared for as the Gladioli.
Tigridias (Shell Flowers) are beautiful in colour, and odd in shape, and
rather gorgeous in effect whether set singly or in groups. The colours
are a pure white, white with lilac, purple and white, yellow and orange
with dark spots, white with a brownish spot on a yellow ground, and rose
colour. The flower remains open for only a day, but as there is always
another to take its place it is not missed. They would better be started
in the house in pots and bedded out when frost is past, as, planted in
the open ground, they sometimes fail to appear. Lift and dry in fall and
store in a dry, warm place during winter, examining occasionally for
mould or grey lice. The leaf much resembles that of the date-palm, being
ribbed and pointed at either end.
Summer-blooming Oxalis are very desirable plants for borders. They are
extensively grown in parks and public gardens, but are little seen in
private grounds. They are the most easily raised of all the bulbous
plants and increase in a manner quite alarming, each bulb forming a long
tuber resembling a white radish in general appearance, and covered with
small bulbs—probably fifty—the top being crowned with one large bulb,
the source of the season’s florescence. These bulbs are not a solid
body, as would appear at first glance, but are made up of hundreds of
minute scales like a lily bulb. Added to its interesting character below
ground is its rather remarkable performance above ground. It comes into
leaf and blossom two weeks after planting, about the time the first tiny
tips of other bulbs appear.
One great advantage of this precocity of growth is that Oxalis may be
substituted when for any reason other border plants have failed to come
up and it is necessary to replace them in a hurry. Often a hardy border
plant winter-kills and one keeps waiting for it to start until it is too
late to get plants from seed, then the little Oxalis comes to the
rescue.
Buy them by the hundred and set about three inches apart and about two
inches deep. Take up in the fall and put in a sunny place to dry,
turning often; when dry remove from the centre tuber and sort, saving
the largest bulbs.
Crinums and Amaryllis
For the past year or so an unusual amount of interest has been shown in
this magnificent class of plants, followed in many instances by grievous
disappointment, as, led away by the glowing descriptions of the dealers,
investments are made in bulbs whose proper culture is entirely unknown.
It is to be regretted that dealers sending out bulbs requiring special
treatment—as the Crinums—do not give instructions for their culture. It
would save a vast amount of disappointment, complaint, and distrust.
Unfortunately many florists do not themselves understand their
requirements; they merely purchase the bulbs from other dealers, and
publish trade advertisements and illustrations.
Seen in bloom under proper conditions and treatment it is not strange
that florists wax eloquent in their praise, and invest heavily in bulbs
which they sell to an ignorant and confiding public. There is, however,
little difficulty in growing the Crinum—indeed, I know of no plant more
easily grown, once it is understood.
Most of the complaints show that there has been no effort made to study
the nature of the plant. A little study would show that an immense bulb
like Crinum ornatum must have a generous supply of roots to sustain it;
that these roots must have time to grow, commensurate with the length of
time the bulb has been out of the ground, and that not much could be
expected of it until these conditions were fulfilled. These facts are
obvious from a study of the dry bulb, other facts are only arrived at
after experience with the Crinum as a plant.
The root growth is quite in keeping with the size of the bulb; it forms
great quantities of fleshy white roots as thick as pipe-stems, which are
very impatient of disturbance and should be left practically unmolested
for a number of years. When a bulb is prepared for market these roots
are all removed. It is not strange that when called upon to rally from
the shock of dismemberment and to replace the entire root growth it
should sometimes fail to bloom as readily as expected. Often only a
portion of the former roots start again, and this must be taken into
consideration when anticipating bloom.
When a dry bulb is received from the florist it should be potted at once
in a pot two inches larger in diameter than the bulb, that is, one
allowing one inch of space between the pot and the bulb all around. Good
potting soil, loam, leaf-mould, or muck, good sharp sand and old,
well-rotted manure should be used. I do not think the muck absolutely
essential, except in the case of C. Americana, which may be grown in
pure muck, but good fibrous loam and sharp sand must be used. Place an
inch or two of drainage material in the bottom of the pot, covering with
sphagnum moss to keep the water from washing the soil into the drain and
clogging it; fill within an inch of the top of the pot with soil; press
the bulb into it, making a depression the shape of the base of the bulb
and a couple of inches deep; line this hollow an inch deep with clean
white sand, replace the bulb, water, and give a warm, sunny position.
The bulb may be lifted and examined daily without injury, to note the
root development and to watch for signs of blue-mould, which is apt to
attack the Crinum if slow in rooting and which, when it appears, should
be carefully wiped off. As soon as the root growth has fairly commenced
the bulb must not again be disturbed, as there is then danger of
injuring the root. This inspection shows the root development the bulb
is likely to make, and gives an idea of the probable florescence. The
bulb is planted on top, and not in the soil, but if it makes the root
growth it should that will hold it as firmly as though it were entirely
embedded.
Usually a bulb will bloom in about three months from potting, sometimes
sooner, but it is better to allow it a margin of time. Few leaves are
made up to blooming time, but after the bloom has faded the foliage
grows rapidly and, in the case of large bulbs, is really magnificent.
When the foliage begins to fade and turn yellow at the tips the growth
for the season is practically over, and water should be gradually
withheld, and the plant allowed to rest. From this time on give only
sufficient water to keep the plant from going dust-dry. Enough water may
be given to keep the roots from shrivelling but not sufficient to induce
top growth. Soon after starting it will be noticed, perhaps, that the
bulb has shrunk and grown smaller and somewhat soft. As the foliage dies
it becomes firm and hard again, the strength of the top has returned to
the bulb from which it came, and it is at this period that it makes its
own growth and prepares for another season of bloom, readiness for which
it will announce by beginning to grow though water be withheld. The top
earth—which should be dry at this time—should be removed as far as
possible without disturbing the roots, and replaced with good, rich
soil. Water freely, and when the buds appear give a little weak liquid
manure once a week. The second blooming will be much finer than the
first, as the plant has now sufficient root growth to support both stalk
and blossom.
Should the bulb outgrow its quarters it may be shifted into a pot two
sizes larger, care being taken not to disturb the roots. In this way the
Crinum may be grown on from year to year, shifting when really
necessary, renewing the top-soil each year without disturbing the roots
and allowing it seasons of complete rest. This is the whole secret of
Crinum culture—undisturbed root action and well-defined seasons of rest
and growth. It requires a warm, sunny window in winter, and an eastern
exposure in summer, where it will get the full morning sun and be
protected from rough winds which injure the foliage. In protected
situations certain varieties, as C. Kunthianum, hold their great leaves
erect and are very fine; they will not do this when exposed to wind.
Care must be taken to protect them from heavy rain, as water settling in
the leaves sometimes causes the bulb to rot. I have lost some very fine
specimens from this cause. A protected sand-box is an ideal place for
them, as the evaporation from the wet sand supplies just the moist
atmosphere they like. They may be wintered in a warm, dry cellar, but,
if the cellar is at all cold or damp, it will be better to keep them on
the back of the plant-stand or on a shelf in a closet where they may be
inspected frequently.
Crinums are such expensive floral luxuries that it pays to take good
care of them. Many varieties make few offshoots, and hence can never
become cheap, but there is a distinct pleasure in possessing something
rare and fine.
Unfortunately much confusion exists in regard to the two Crinums, Kirkii
and ornatum, and the same bulb is often offered under different names.
The dealers themselves seem to have no clear idea as to which is which.
I believe, however, that ornatum is distinguished by a pink stripe
through the centre of each petal, while the corresponding stripe in
Kirkii is reddish-purple; these two are the most uncertain and
unsatisfactory of all Crinums in the hands of the amateur.