support from the start. Do not water until necessary, then sufficient
water should be poured into the trench to thoroughly soak the ground at
the bottom of the roots, but do not turn it on the foliage or stems.
Thorough and frequent cultivation should be given during the blooming
season. Should it become necessary to shower the foliage during dusty
weather it would better be done early in the morning or sufficiently
early in the evening to allow the foliage to dry before the chill of
night. This guards against the blight and mildew, so prevalent in
Sweet-pea culture.
When for any reason it is not convenient to cultivate frequently, a
mulch of lawn clippings will keep the ground about the vines cool and
moist. To insure freedom of bloom all faded flowers should be removed
each day. If the flowers are cut as fast as they open the quality will
be improved. Under no circumstances should seed be allowed to form, as
the ripening of the seed is fatal to the flowers.
There is such a bewildering variety of Sweet-peas that any suggestion of
choice is impossible, but usually the special collections put up by
seedsmen will prove more satisfactory than those of one’s own choosing,
if one is unfamiliar with the names of the varieties.
Verbenas
In sowing the seed of Verbenas it is best to keep colours separate, as
white, pink, scarlet, scarlet with white eye, and the new Mayflower
Verbena—one of the finest novelties brought out in recent years.
They should be started early in flats or hotbed, soaking the seed in hot
water for three or four hours before planting. It germinates very
irregularly, often coming up after one has ceased to expect it. The soil
should be kept moist so long as there is any chance of more plants
appearing. Verbenas will thrive in any good soil, striking root wherever
a point touches the ground. Cultivate, if in loam or stiff soil, as long
as there is room to work between the plants, which should be set at
least a foot apart. Verbenas do finely on the rockwork, seeming to enjoy
the cool corners they find under the stones, and the finest I have ever
grown have been in such a situation.
Vincas (Periwinkles) are an exceedingly beautiful and little known
tender perennial worthy of extensive cultivation, as easily grown as an
Aster or Verbena, and very effective in large beds. For the price of one
greenhouse plant a dozen plants may be raised from seed. The foliage is
deep green and glossy, and large single flowers of exquisite colour and
texture—pure ivory white, white with a crimson eye, and rosy crimson—are
borne at the end of every branch covering the plants, which grow from
fifteen to eighteen inches high and nearly as broad. As a border for a
Canna bed nothing could be better, and they make fine symmetrical winter
bloomers. No finer plants for house decoration could be desired.
The seeds, which should be started early in hotbeds or flats, germinate
in from ten to fifteen days, sometimes earlier. Set out plants, when all
danger of frost is past, in muck, if possible, or in well-enriched loam,
setting a foot or fifteen inches apart each way, cultivating once a
week, if in loam or stiff soil, but if in muck it will only be necessary
to mulch. Water every day during the hot weather, and if kept from
seeding they will bloom from June until cut down by frost. They do well
in full sunshine or in shade, but must have a fair amount of moisture.
If no seeds form plants may be lifted in the fall and potted in large
pots for winter blooming.
Small plants of the Chrysanthemum obtained from the florist in the
spring will, with proper care, make fine blooming plants by fall. Plant
out, when all danger of frost is past, in a sunny bed composed of rather
sandy loam and muck well manured and made deep and mellow. Set the
plants from a foot to eighteen inches apart each way and cultivate at
least once a week during the summer. They should never suffer for water,
as if once allowed to dry out they never fully recover.
When the plants are six or eight inches high pinch back to four inches.
Allow four branches to spring from this main stalk, removing all others.
When these are four inches long pinch back again, allowing each of the
four shoots to form three or four branches and nipping out all others as
they appear. If a few very large flowers are desired, allow only the
four branches to grow from the main stem, removing all other shoots.
When the branches are six inches in length pinch back for the last time
not later than August 1st, after which they should be allowed to grow on
undisturbed, removing all but the terminal buds if fine flowers are
desired.
Lift by September 1st, transfer to large pots or boxes, according to the
size of the plants. The soil should be given a good watering the day
before lifting, that the earth may cling to the roots and that the plant
may be in the best condition for moving. Cut around the plant with the
trowel, leaving a ball of earth as near as possible the size and shape
of the pot it is to fill. Avoid disturbing the roots.
Set in a cool, shady place for a few days and keep in a rather cool, dry
atmosphere after removing to the house. Water freely and give liquid
manure once a week. Do not shower the tops after buds appear, or keep
where bulbs are growing in water, as moisture at this stage is apt to
cause the buds to blast. Chrysanthemums are quite certain to be attacked
at some stage of their growth with black aphis, or lice, which are very
troublesome to get rid of once they have gained a foothold. It will be
wise, therefore, to keep the foliage constantly dusted with tobacco at
all seasons of their growth, as in this form tobacco is most effective.
Once the pest has gotten a start fumigating with tobacco smoke will be
necessary. Shut the plants in a close room or box and smoke thoroughly.
Chapter _ELEVEN_
Vines
Harsh outlines of buildings, a dead tree, a dilapidated fence, a sunny
window, an obtrusive outbuilding, may be transformed by the use of
Nature’s drapery. There exists in the minds of many, unfortunately, a
prejudice against vines on the house as injurious to walls. This is
entirely unfounded, the contrary, so far as I am able to judge, being
the case, especially on the south and west sides of frame houses, where
the paint and consequently the woodwork, will be found in a much better
state of preservation when protected by such vines as Ampelopsis
Veitchi, Virginia Creeper, Woodbine, and the like, than when exposed to
the burning, blistering rays of the sun. Vines make a thick growth of
overlapping leaves which shed rain and prevent its penetrating to the
walls. In England, where it is much used, it is said that walls covered
with Ivy are almost indestructible, so hard and dry has the cement
remained under its protecting care.
Adlumia (Mountain Fringe, Climbing Fumitory, Alleghany Vine)
One of the prettiest of summer vines is the Adlumia, though it lasts but
one short summer. It is a biennial, stooling the first summer and the
second summer bursting into a wealth of tender green foliage, as finely
cut as a fern, with hundreds of sprays of delicate flowers—a delightful
vine when grown on the north side of the house, where it retains its
fine green throughout the season, though in the hot sun it is inclined
to burn. It is especially appropriate for funerals. It self-sows, and
once established there is sure to be an abundance of it from year to
year. In the fall seeds may be scattered where the plants are to remain,
or the seed may be germinated in another spot and the seedlings
transplanted later. As the plants always receive a check when moved, it
is better to do so as early as possible in the fall, that they may
become established before cold weather. Plants should be set two feet
apart.
Cobæa scandens (Cup-and-Saucer Vine) is a most desirable summer vine. It
grows to a great height and blooms freely, throwing great, bell-shaped
flowers—pure white, greenish white, lavender, mauve, and purple—from the
axil of nearly every leaf. The flowers of the purple variety are pale
green at first, changing through all the shades of lavender and purple
to plum.
There is another variety—the San Salvador Cobæa—that is even more
desirable than the C. scandens. The flowers are much smaller, but have
greatly exaggerated stamens that give them distinction. Its chief
beauty, however, is the foliage of light, translucent green, to which
the sun, shining through it, gives a luminous quality rare in vines. In
manner of growth, too, it is superior, its many-lobed leaves lying
parallel to, or flat on the netting, instead of at right angles, as is
the case with C. scandens. Both these vines do well in a north or east
exposure and require less water than most vines. They are admirable for
covering an old tree or any partly dead wood.
Seed should be started in the hotbed early in spring, setting them on
edge and covering a quarter of an inch deep. Unless the soil appears dry
they should not be watered until the plants are up and have their first
true leaves. Set out when danger of frost is past in mellow soil,
watering as needed, and giving support for the vines to cling to. To
stone and brick, or the bark of a tree, they will cling of themselves,
each leaf-spray ending in a tendril that attaches itself to any rough
surface. I have never been able to ascertain what height they will
attain if given support, but the top of a reasonably tall tree falls
short of their ambition.
The Centrosema (Butterfly Pea) is rather a hard vine to propagate from
seed. Seeds germinate freely, but the young plants seem strangely
lacking in vigour, so that frequently, after making a few inches of
growth, they refuse to go further, and gradually dwindle away. It is
therefore better to make several sowings, soaking the seed in hot water
for an hour before using, and planting in hotbed or cold-frame. If it is
dropped an inch or two apart in the rows there will be no occasion for
disturbing until it is time to transplant into the open ground—which
would better be deferred until the plants are six or eight inches high.
They should be moved with as little disturbance as possible, pressing
the trowel down its full length and lifting and transferring to their
permanent position on the east side of the house in one operation. Water
and press the earth around the roots and furnish immediate support. Thus
treated they will usually thrive and bloom in a few weeks, continuing
until frost unless seeds form, which should not be allowed on young
plants.
Were they much more difficult to raise, it would still be worth many
trials and failures to secure one thrifty plant, so lovely it is when in
bloom. I do not remember another plant whose blossoms give one such an
idea of perfection—of exquisite and minute finish, as this lovely
Centrosema with its beautiful colour, delicate markings, and symmetry of
form. Before it bloomed I had begun to wonder whether it was worth all
the trouble, but when I saw the first perfect blossom all doubts
vanished and I would go to much greater trouble to possess it.
The Centrosema is of slender growth, and seldom exceeds eight or ten
feet. Plants should be set a foot apart in front of a wire trellis or
other support. They are hardy, but should be given protection in winter.
Gourds are a very useful family. They are an ornamental feature of the
summer garden, and afford an economic and unique addition to the
winter’s supply of plant receptacles, hanging-baskets, low bowls for
Tulips, Crocus, and other bulbs. Many of them are highly ornamental and
graceful climbers—as the Wild Cucumber, Bryonopsis, Coccinea Indica, and
Abobra, which have delicate foliage and showy fruit, and may be grown
where any quick-growing vine is wanted. They are especially good for
covering rear fences or unsightly outbuildings.
Some of the varieties have large white flowers which are finer than a
Clematis, and of the fruit of large-flowered ones the prettiest
hanging-baskets are made. Saw them in two when thoroughly ripe and dry,
remove the pulp, scrape the shell clean and thin and give a coat of
green or brown shellac inside and out, and hang with brass chains. They
are more satisfactory if the gourds are a year old and perfectly dry. A
hole must be made for drainage, and in case of bowls, tiny supports
fastened to the bottom with glue to raise them from the table, as
without the free circulation of air they are liable to mould.
[Illustration: A DEAD TREE DRAPED WITH VINES]
Seed must be sown as early as possible that the fruit may have time to
ripen before frost. Set out when all danger of frost is past in any
garden soil in a sunny position where they will have good support, as
they are vigorous and rapid climbers and will quickly go to the top of a
tall tree. They are liable when first set out to be eaten off by
cutworms, and they should be protected by a bottomless tin can sunk into
the ground two or three inches, care being taken that there are no worms
inside the can. The gourds do not grow for some little time after
setting out, as they are making roots; but once they begin the
development is rapid.
The variegated Japanese Hop is another summer vine that should be
extensively grown. Its large, handsome foliage, freely splashed with
white, is very showy and effective, and it thrives in almost any
situation and soil, though paying well for extra care or attention in
the way of cultivation, watering, and food. The vines are not hardy,
but, as they self-sow, once established they are practically permanent.
Several plants should be set near each other, as only the female plant
bears seed. The leaves of this are smaller and the vine more slender.
The great-leaved, robust vine bears no seed.
It is better to plant the seed in the fall, as when planted in the
spring it may not come up until the following year. If this is the case
the ground where it is sown should be left undisturbed until the
following spring, when it will make an early appearance. When it does
sprout the same season, the seed germinates in from eight to ten days.
The plants do equally well on north, south, east or west walls, but
should be kept sufficiently watered on the south or west.
There is but one precaution I have found necessary in growing the
Japanese Hop: namely, to give it a rather elastic support, a twine
trellis being better than a rigid wire one. The finest Japanese Hop I
ever saw grew over a south window on a trellis of chicken netting; the
growth was wonderful, and the great leaves were beautifully splashed
with white. I was exceedingly proud of the vine, but one day I saw it
hanging limp and withered from its trellis, and an investigation
revealed the astonishing fact that it had grown so rapidly and attached
itself so firmly to the unyielding wire that it had pulled its roots
entirely out of the ground, literally committing suicide. Since then I
have used a more yielding support.
The Japanese Morning-glory should be started in the house or hotbed and
not transplanted into the open ground until the nights and ground are
warm.
[Illustration: FURNISH SUPPORT FOR VINES TO RUN ON]
[Illustration: VINE-COVERED SHED]
Many of the varieties received direct from Japan are only adapted for
growing in pots; that is how the Japanese grow them, and we can hardly
expect to improve on their methods. Pot off all plants showing unusual
markings, or oddly shaped leaves, and plunge in the sand-box, giving
sunshine and abundance of water and using large pots, or shifting
frequently as needed. Give liquid manure once or twice a week. Furnish
support for the vines to run on, either a trellis or sticks in the sides
of the pot and strings run back and forth through and around them, or
they may be trained against the wall back of the sand-box. Most of the
seeds purchased here, however, are grown in this country, and the plants
are as rugged as the old-fashioned Morning-glory. It will be noticed
that those with oddly shaped leaves and broad, hairy stems rarely bloom
here, the buds appearing too late to develop before frost. Grown in pots
these might give some interesting specimens. If only a few of the buds
are allowed to develop the size will be greatly increased.
The Maurandya Vine is one of the most satisfactory for low trellises,
window-boxes, vases, rockwork, and the like, in summer, and for
hanging-baskets in winter. In the open air it attains a height of five
or six feet, giving an abundance of pink, white, and lavender-coloured,
foxglove-shaped flowers, an inch and a half in length. The smooth,
shining leaves are ivy-shaped and cling to supports by a twist of the
stem. It grows readily from seed, and germinates in from twelve to
fifteen days. For trellis and outdoor work start early in flats or
hotbed, setting out when danger of frost is past, but for winter use
June is early enough to sow seed. It requires no special treatment,
doing well in any situation with good soil and sufficient moisture. This
is one of the most graceful and useful vines for either summer or
winter.
Thunbergias (Black-eyed Susans) like a warm, sunny situation, and in
good soil will grow six or eight feet tall and be covered, until cut
down by frost, with a wreath of tube-shaped, flat-faced blossoms two
inches in diameter—pure white, white with black eye, yellow with white
eye, and yellow with black eye. They are very valuable for covering low
trellises, the foundations of porches, window-boxes, urns, or rockwork
where a small vine is needed. They are admirable as basket or bracket
plants in winter. They grow freely from seed, germinating in about
twelve days, and should be started early in flats in the house or the
hotbed. Much finer plants are grown in this way than can be purchased
from the florist. Their only enemy is the red spider, and they should be
showered frequently to prevent an attack.
The Manettia Vine is one of the most satisfactory vines for winter
blooming, requiring only a small pot and a place in a sunny window, and
blooming better when pot-bound. A daily watering, and occasional doses
of weak liquid manure when the other plants are getting it is all the
care it needs. It does not require a warm atmosphere, blooming freely in
a temperature of about 50°, and giving an unfailing succession of its
bright little flowers every day during the winter. It is that rare
thing—a plant which the florists have not overpraised. It is every bit
as good as it is claimed to be. Though equally at home in a
hanging-basket or on a trellis, I have found it most attractive when
grown on strings across the window in company with Solanum jasminoides,
whose sprays of airy white flowers contrast with the orange and scarlet
of the Manettia. A small plant obtained from the florist in spring and
potted in a four-inch pot, with good compost, will be ready to bloom by
November, and will remain in bloom from that time until spring, when it
should be repotted in a six-inch pot and plunged in the sand-box to grow
for winter blooming. The only precaution necessary is to keep it in a
small pot, as it blooms more freely when pot-bound. Cut back if not
branching freely, as the bloom comes at the ends of the new growth.
Clematis (Virgin’s Bower)
The large-flowered Clematis are the most expensive vines we have. So
slowly do they propagate from cuttings that the price remains high from
year to year. The cheapest way to obtain them is to raise them from seed
and, though this is a more or less uncertain method, the expense is so
slight compared to the purchase of plants that where many are required
it is worth repeated efforts. Plant the seeds in flats in the house
either in fall or spring. Cover an eighth of an inch and press the soil
down firmly, keeping moist and warm. They germinate in from six weeks to
a year; for this reason fall planting is desirable, as the soil may more
easily be kept in the right condition. When the plants are large enough
to handle, pot off into small pots and plunge in the sand-box, if the
weather is warm enough, or in a sunny window if cold. Winter in a
frost-proof cellar the first winter, putting them in the open ground
where they are to remain till the following spring. The plants will give
a few blossoms the second season, enough to show the variety, and the
next year may be expected to bloom freely. Plants raised from seed are
more likely to bloom and do well than those from cuttings.
Clematis paniculata comes more freely from seed than the Jackmanni
strains, and should be largely grown, as it is one of our loveliest
vines and blooms when most others have ceased. Clematis flammula
self-sows and established little plants are continually coming up in
unexpected places, which may be removed to any desired position, as this
variety does not in the least mind being disturbed. All Clematis are
benefited by winter protection, and such varieties as Ramona and other
spring bloomers should have the tops protected with sacking or old
carpet. Mrs. Edward Andre dies to the ground in the winter, but should
be well protected around the roots. Many growers cut back Clematis to
within a few feet of the ground each fall, but where large spaces are to
be covered one loses much time, as the frost usually does all the
trimming necessary. The early spring bloomers from last season’s wood
and cutting back in the fall simply lessen the blossom points. If it is
necessary to trim for symmetry or lack of room it should be done
immediately after the plants are through blooming, that they may have
abundant time for new growth.
[Illustration: CLEMATIS PANICULATI BLOOMS WHEN MOST OTHERS HAVE CEASED]
Bignonia Radicans (Trumpet Vine)
It is to be regretted that this fine vine is so common and old-fashioned
that no one seems to appreciate it sufficiently to bring it up to its
really magnificent possibilities. When grown as a shrub no finer plant
for a hedge could possibly be desired. For this purpose the plants
should be set about three feet apart, or even closer, if it is desired
that the hedge should be useful as well as ornamental. Set in an even
row where the hedge is desired, tie each plant to a stout stake, and
allow only one branch to grow, cutting this back when three feet high to
form the head, which should be made to branch freely. By the time the
stake has rotted away the plant will have made a trunk as large as one’s
wrist and perfectly self-supporting. All dead and weak branches should
be trimmed out each year and the hedge kept pruned back to symmetrical
growth. If the seed-pods are not allowed to form the plant will be in
bloom nearly all summer. Such a hedge will be a thing to bequeath to
posterity along with old oaks and fine elms.
The Trumpet Vine is equally desirable as a climber, and on some surfaces
is self-supporting, but on others, as the side of a building or a board
fence, it often fails to attach itself, and in that case must be
artificially supported. This should be very securely done, as a hard
storm may tear a heavy-topped specimen entirely away from its support
and do much damage. The best support is afforded by stretching a
galvanised wire across a branch, just under a joint, and fastening each
end by a staple driven firmly into the building.
Grown as a shrub on the lawn the Trumpet Vine is very fine and should be
trained to a stake and grown the same as a Kilmarnock Willow. Every
year, as my Bignonias bloom, I grow more and more enthusiastic over
their possibilities, and wish more people would grow them with some
definite aim in view.
Chapter _TWELVE_
Ornamental Foliage Plants from Seed
Canna (Indian Shot)