CHAPTER XVII

MOTORING IN THE GARDEN OF EDEN

And the Lord God planted a garden in Eden eastward; wherein he

placed man whom he had formed.

And the Lord God brought forth of the ground all manner of

trees, fair to behold, and pleasant to eat of: the tree of life

also in the midst of the garden and the tree of knowledge of

good and evil.

And a river went out of Eden to water paradise, which from

thence is divided into four heads.

The name of the one is Phison: that is it which compasseth all

the land of Hevilath, where gold groweth.

And the gold of that land is very good: there is found bdellium,

and the onyx stone.

And the name of the second river is Gehon: the same is it that

compasseth all the land of Ethiopia.

And the name of the third river is Tigris: the same passeth

along by the Assyrians. And the fourth river is Euphrates.

And the Lord God took man and put him into the garden of Eden to

dress it and to keep it.

GENESIS, ii: 5–15.

“Effendi, your _terumbil_ is ready.” Thus did a young Arab inform

me that the automobile which was to take us to Babylon was at the door

of the Carmelite monastery.

Barely have a few words so thrilled me as did these then pronounced by

the bronze-visaged son of the desert. They meant so much to me--far

more than the simple words would seem to imply. They meant that we were

at last near the final objective of our long and eventful journey;

that, in a few hours, we should be contemplating the world-famed ruins

of Babylon; that in, the short journey from the romantic capital of

Harun-al-Rashid to the historic city of Nebuchadnezzar we should

traverse a land which has long been celebrated in story and legend as

the cradle of our race.

When we attempted to cross the swaying pontoon bridge which separates

Bagdad proper from its old suburb on the right bank of the Tigris, we

found our passage blocked for a while by the heterogeneous crowd of men

and women and the long train of burdened donkeys and camels that were

headed for the shops and the bazaars of the old capital of the Caliphs.

But we welcomed this delay as it gave us an opportunity to study a

scene which, during our wanderings along the river front of the city,

had always possessed for us a special fascination.

Here were assembled the strange and varied craft for which the Tigris

is so noted. Among them was the steam side-wheeler which brings freight

and passengers from the port of Basra on the Shat-al-Arab. There were

also tugs and barges and lighters of other varieties of modern craft

familiar to people of the West. Scattered among these were numerous

mahailas, those primitive and picturesque boats so much used by the

Arabs in the navigable parts of the Tigris and Euphrates. With their

pointed prows, high masts, and lateen sails, they are not unlike the

dahabiyehs of the Nile or simplified forms of the fast-sailing felucca

and xebec once so much used by the pirates of Barbary. Alongside of

them were countless specimens of that long, canoe-shaped boat called

by the Arabs the _bellum_--which in the narrow canals in and

around Basra serves the same purpose as the gondola in Venice. The

_bellum_, to judge from certain bas-reliefs found among the ruins

of Nimroud, is but a slight modification of the type of boat which

Sennacherib employed in his fleet during his celebrated campaign

against the Elamits. But a far more singular craft than any of those

mentioned is the kufa. Its frame is woven of willows or the split

branches of the date palm and, like the Ark of Noah, is “pitched within

and without with pitch” which is procured from the hot, bitumen springs

of Hit, on the Euphrates. It is circular in form and looks like a

large cauldron with its brim turned inwards. Their great number at

Bagdad and the way which they are made to rotate among the other boats

are always sure to attract attention. They are used as ferryboats in

crossing the river and for carrying freight and passengers to and from

the city and the adjoining country. Herodotus tells us that, after the

city itself, these curious craft surprised him more than anything that

he saw in Babylon. In form and size they are similar to the coracle in

which St. Brendan is said to have made his famous voyage from Ireland

to America, long centuries before Columbus “to Castile and Leon gave a

New World.”

But few keleks are seen among the numberless boats that dot the Tigris

at Bagdad. The reason is simple. As soon as they arrive from Mosul and

Diarbeker their wooden frameworks are sold for fuel, for which they

fetch a good price, while the deflated skins are returned to the places

whence they came to be again used in the construction of other keleks.

Nowhere in the world can one see so great a variety of river crafts

as at Bagdad, or styles of vessels which have remained unchanged

for so many thousands of years. For here one finds everything from

the raftlike slow-floating kelek to the swift, surface-skimming

_glisseur_ which, with a powerful engine, is capable of making

a speed of more than forty miles an hour. The kelek and the kufa

represent the high-water mark of the shipwright’s achievements two

thousand years before our era, while the _glisseur_ is but one of

the many triumphs of the marine engineers of the twentieth century of

the era in which we live. Forty centuries separate the two creations

and yet they are both seen here side by side--one typifying the

changeless East and the other the ever-progressive West.

After the congested traffic on the bridge had diminished sufficiently

to allow us to pass, we took the stage road that leads to Hillah and

Babylon. There was nothing to detain us in West Bagdad for of the old

Round City of Mansur not a vestige is now visible. Many travelers make

a detour to get a near view of the noted Kazimayn mosque but, as the

fanatical Shiahs do not allow a Christian to enter this sacred shrine,

I was satisfied with the view I had had of it through my field glass

from the summit of the lofty old minaret of Souk-El-Ghazl.

Neither did we go to see that other lion on the western bank of the

Tigris--the much lauded tomb of Zobeide, who occupies so conspicuous

a place in _Thousand and One Nights_ and in many Arabian

chronicles. With the renowned Arabian queens Zenobia and the Queen

of Sheba, Zobeide will always live in story and legend as one of the

most prominent figures of the East. According to an Eastern tradition,

she shares with the mythical Sultana Scheherazade the honor of having

composed those fascinating tales known as “The Arabian Nights.” We did

not visit the crumbling monument which is said to contain her tomb, for

the simple reason that it has been proved beyond doubt that this was

never the last resting place of Harun-al-Rashid’s favorite wife and was

never considered to be so until nearly nine hundred years after her

death.

A few short hours after leaving the city of the Caliphs we were in the

heart of the broad alluvial plain of Babylonia. But there was little

to attract our attention except the countless mounds that dotted the

broad expanse of level land and covered all that remained of once

flourishing towns and cities. With the exception of a few palms here

and there along some old irrigating canal this extensive region was

almost as treeless as the desert sections of northern Mesopotamia.

Outside of an occasional reed hut or black tent--the humble homes of

Bedouin Arabs--we saw but few human habitations in a land that during

thousands of years was as thickly populated and as carefully cultivated

as Holland or the valley of the Rhine.

Once we met a small caravan of pilgrims coming from far-distant Mecca

and Medina. Although travel worn by their long journey through the

burning sands of Arabia they seemed, nevertheless, to be a very joyous

company. They were happy in the thought of having complied with the

precept of the Koran which requires that every one of the Faithful

shall, if at all possible, make a pilgrimage, at least once in his

lifetime, to the venerated shrines which enclose the Kaaba and the tomb

of the Prophet. Even

_The camels, tufted o’er with Yemen’s shells,_

_Shaking in every breeze their light-toned bells_,

seemed to enter into the spirit of their cheerful and godly riders.

Among the green-turbaned hadjis I observed two whose means enabled

them to indulge in the luxury of genuine Arabian steeds. After the

delightful experience I had had with a pure-blooded Arabian horse when

traveling in the East many years ago, I have never been able to pass

one of these noble animals without scrutinizing it as closely as I

would a masterpiece of Raphael or Murillo. I do not know whether or

not these two horses had made the long journey to Mecca and return--a

distance of nearly fifteen hundred miles--but if they did, they failed

to show it, for they seemed as lively and as vigorous as if they had

been on the road but a few days. But this is one of the characteristics

of the true Arabian horse--its remarkable powers of endurance, even

when forced to travel long distances without food or water.[454]

Judging from their delicate forms, their well-fashioned heads, their

large beautiful eyes, their agile and supple movements, the two

steeds in question must have been bred from one or two of the five

pure-blooded races of horses for which, from time immemorial, Arabia

has been so celebrated.[455]

According to an Arabian legend, when God wished to create the horse He

called the South Wind to Him and said, “I wish to take from thy bosom a

new being. Condense thyself by depriving thyself of thy fluidity.” The

wind obeyed. The Lord then took a handful of that element, now become

malleable, breathed upon it and the horse was born. “You will be for

man,” the Lord then said, “a source of happiness and riches and he will

render himself illustrious by riding you.”

It is said that “the happiest events in the life of a Bedouin are the

births of a she-camel, of a son, and of a she-foal.” And so highly

does the Arab value his young colts, as well as his young camels, that

he cares for them as children and “the nearer on the social ladder he

stands to the real Bedouin” the higher rises his love for his horse.

Indeed, to judge by his actions at times, one would think that he

prefers his horse to his son. For when the camels are milked in the

evening the colts receive their regular supply of the lacteal fluid

before the children of the family. Not only this, but the true Arab

puts the care of his horse before his own ease. In the desert there is

a saying that “work which does not belittle a man is for his horse, for

his brother and for his guest.” Another saying among the Bedouins is

that “Allah has three great gifts for man--a good horse, a good wife

and a good blade.” Similar to this is the adage that “the greatest

blessings are a wise wife and a fruitful mare.”

How well the Bedouin is rewarded for his affectionate care of his horse

is a common theme of the stories and songs of the desert. For the

prized animal which occasionally exhibits almost human intelligence

fully reciprocates his master’s affection and serves him in danger and

out of danger with a loyalty that is proverbial and with an unswerving

devotion that never falters as long as strength and life endure.

But one cannot speak of the Arab’s horse without also saying something

of his intimate associate--the camel. So indispensable is the camel to

the Bedouin that, without it, it would be almost impossible for him to

continue his nomad life. For the hair of the animal supplies him with

clothing and tents while its milk is his principal article of food.

Hence, the significant proverb “God created the camel for the Arab and

the Arab for the camel.” Hence, also, the peculiar custom of speaking

of the camel as a “person.” Thus an Arab when enumerating his flocks

and herds will speak of so many “head” of sheep or cattle, but when

counting his camels will speak of them as so many “persons.”

According to a Bedouin legend, the camel and the date were fashioned by

Allah from the same clay from which Adam was formed. The same legend

declares that they were found with our first parents in the Garden of

Eden and that they will accompany man to the world beyond the tomb.

When young, the camel, like the colt, is regarded as a member of the

family. Like its companion, the colt, it is fondled as a child and

always treated with the most unremitting care. And so important a

position does it occupy in the life of the family and the clan in

Arabia, that the poets of the desert have from time immemorial vied

with one another in seeking suitable epithets for their inseparable

servant and associate. The number of these epithets, describing

and glorifying the camel, is no less than six hundred, while the

distinguished French traveler Chardin assures us that it is fully a

thousand.

And well may the Arab sing the praises of the animal to which he owes

so much, for it is to the patient, frugal, and laborious camel that he,

in great measure, owes his proud, uninterrupted independence during the

long ages of his country’s history. For, “without the camel, he must

have long since bowed his neck to a foreign yoke, sharing the fate of

those despised felahin who guide or draw the plow on the banks of the

Nile and the Orontes.”[456]

But while the much-praised camel is to the Arab fully as useful as the

horse--in many respects far more indispensable--he has, contrary to

general opinion, neither the docility nor the intelligence of the horse

and, notwithstanding all the care his master may have lavished upon

him, shows no interest in him whatever. Besides this, he is vindictive

to a degree, and that sooner or later he will seek revenge for some

real or fancied injury is so well known that the camel driver is always

on his guard against its malice and fury.

Palgrave, the adventurous explorer of central and eastern Arabia, who

had a rare opportunity of studying “the ship of the desert” in his

desert home, writes:

If docile means stupid, well and good; in such a case the camel

is the very model of docility. But if the epithet is intended

to designate an animal that takes an interest in its rider so

far as a beast can, that in some way understands his intentions

or shares them in a subordinate fashion, that obeys from a

sort of submissive or half fellow-feeling with his master,

like the horse and elephant, then I say that the camel is by

no means docile, very much the contrary; he takes no heed of

his rider; pays no attention whether he be on his back or not;

walks straight on when once set agoing, merely because he is

too stupid to turn aside; and then, should some tempting thorn

or green branch allure him out of the path, continues to walk

on in this new direction simply because he is too dull to turn

back into the right road.... In a word, he is from first to last

an undomesticated and savage animal, rendered serviceable by

stupidity alone, without much skill on his master’s part or any

coöperation on his own except that of an extreme passiveness.

Neither attachment nor even habit impresses him; never tame,

though not wide-awake enough to be exactly wild.[457]

Shortly after meeting the caravan from Mecca and Medina, we overtook

one going in the opposite direction. This was composed of pilgrims on

their way to the sacred shrines of Nejef and Kerbela--the holy cities

of the Shiites. A sorrier and more mournful crowd could not easily be

imagined. It was composed of Persian Shiites who were convoying their

dead to Kerbela and Nejef for burial. Among the departed were some

but recently deceased, while others had been dead for years and their

moldering remains had been exhumed for final interment in the sacred

ground in and around Kerbela and Nejef. There were no sumptuous funeral

cars for transporting this gruesome freight. Only jades and donkeys and

mules, all worn out by their long journey through the sandy desert. Nor

were there any costly caskets to enclose the remains of the dead. Far

from it. Some were wrapped in reeds and rugs while others were packed

in bags and baskets. In this condition they were slung from the backs

of the jaded pack animals which were conducted by friends or servants

of the deceased.

In Nejef are preserved the ashes of Ali, the husband of Fatima,

daughter of the Prophet of Mecca, while in the mosque of Kerbela is

the last resting place of his son, Husein. By his followers Ali was

considered the first legitimate Caliph and his sons Hasan and Husein

have ever since their tragic death been venerated as martyrs. It was

the dispute about the first lawful Caliph that occasioned the great

schism which divides the Moslem world into two sects: the Shiites,

who reject the first three Caliphs--Abu-Bekr, Omar, and Othman--as

usurpers; and the Sunnites, who recognize Ali as well as the three

Caliphs named, while they regard the Shiites as “forsakers of the

truth.” The Shiites include the Persians, besides whom they have a

large representation among the Mohammedans of India.

It is the ardent desire of every devout Shiite to be buried either in

Nejef or Kerbela, for the sacred soil of these places, so he firmly

believes, assures him of paradise. There is a cherished tradition

among the Shiites that Ali will be the first to rise on the day of the

general resurrection and that all who are interred in Nejef will rise

with him to a life of immortality and happiness.

This accounts for the countless thousands that are every year interred

in Nejef and Kerbela. The cost of the burial permits at these two

places is said to amount to nearly a million dollars a year, while the

number of pilgrims from Persia alone, who annually visit the shrines

of Ali and Husein is estimated at no less than sixty thousand souls.

In a preceding chapter we have seen that the pilgrims--nearly all of

whom are Sunnites--that yearly visit Medina and Mecca number fully two

hundred thousand. Considering, however, the relative populations of

Shiite and Sunnite countries, more pilgrims are found at the shrines of

Ali and Husein than at those of the Prophet and the Kaaba.

But, although both the great Moslem sects recognize Mohammed as their

prophet and have the greatest veneration for him, the most profound

hatred separates one from the other. The Shiites regard the Sunnites as

impure and detest them because of their association with Christians and

Jews, something which the followers of Ali consider intolerable.

Unlike the Sunnites, the Shiites, especially those in the valleys of

the Tigris and the Euphrates, lead a retired life and studiously avoid

relations with all except their coreligionists. Those of the well-to-do

class are, when at home, continually engaged in religious ceremonies

and conferences. On these occasions accounts are read of the tragic

deaths of Ali and his sons. So moved are all present that they express

their grief by sobs and lamentations. These reunions, which usually

last two hours, take place for the men in apartments specially reserved

for them and in the harem for the women. But the women are much more

demonstrative in their sorrow than the men, for so moved are they by

the recital of the cruel deaths of Ali and his sons that they utter

piercing shrieks, strike their breasts, and, when carried away by their

delirium, disfigure their faces with their finger nails.

But what is passing strange is that these ceremonies of mourning take

place on such occasions of rejoicing as a wedding or the birth of a

child. In a word, the Shiites are born, live, and die in the midst of

tears and moans and lamentations. The wailing of the Jews in Jerusalem

at the wall of the temple of their forefathers occurs but once a week,

while the dolorous reunions of the Shiites are far more frequent.

During the first ten days of the month of Moharrem and every day during

the pilgrimage to Nejef and Kerbela they are obligatory.[458]

But it is not my purpose in this chapter to give more than a cursory

glance at the present condition of Babylonia and its people. For,

during my wanderings in this historic land, my thoughts were rather

occupied with its myths and legends and, above all, with that

interesting and persistent tradition which, from time immemorial, has

here located the Garden of Eden--what the “Vulgate” calls the Paradise

of Pleasure and what is frequently known as the Terrestrial Paradise.

Of the many interesting subjects treated of in the book of Genesis,

few have received more attention from scholars and interpreters than

that which relates to the Terrestrial Paradise. Even in the early

days of Christianity men began to dispute about it. Some, among them

Origen[459] and St. Ambrose, not to mention others, inclined to the

opinion that the Genesiac account of the cradle of our race was

to be interpreted allegorically. Others, however, like St. Jerome

and St. Augustine,[460] maintained that the Scriptural narrative

regarding the Garden of Eden was to be interpreted literally. Even

at the present time Biblical students exhibit the same difference of

opinion respecting the words of the Sacred Text which relate to the

Garden of Paradise as was displayed by the writers and Fathers of the

primitive Church. Some favor an allegorical interpretation of the much

discussed narrative while others contend that we must adopt a literal

interpretation. “So concrete,” they hold with St. Augustine, “is the

description of the Terrestrial Paradise that one cannot allegorize it

without doing violence to the text.”

The eminent Assyriologist, Frederick Delitzsch, in an elaborate

study of this long vexed question, insists that “the Biblical record

of the Garden of Eden contains no indication of being fabulous or

extravagant, or enveloped in semi-obscurity. Neither need one hesitate

as to the sense, nor is one, for lack of clearness, obliged to read

between the lines. For the narrator the Garden of Eden, with its four

rivers, the Phison, the Gehon, the Tigris and the Euphrates, is a

manifest and well-known reality. He is in nowise obscure respecting

the meaning of the names of the Phison and the Gehon. Not only does

he know exactly their signification--as exactly as that of the Tigris

and the Euphrates--but he wishes to instruct his readers concerning

the subject. It is for this reason that he gives explanations and

elucidations which his readers can control.”[461]

But, notwithstanding the explicitness of the author of the second

chapter of Genesis, the localization of the Garden of Eden bristles

with many and grave difficulties. Ever since the days of Philo Judæus,

scholars have been seeking a solution of the problem, and, although

they have written countless books on the subject, the actual site of

the Terrestrial Paradise still remains a matter of uncertainty.

How diverse have been the views of learned men respecting the site

of Paradise is evinced by the fact that they have located it almost

everywhere on the earth, above the earth, and under the earth. Some,

following the Ptolemaic system of astronomy, have contended that the

home of the first parents was in the third heaven; others that it was

in the fourth; others still that it was in the heaven of the moon, or

in the middle region of the air, or in some hidden place far removed

from the knowledge of mortals. Others again with a great display of

erudition have attempted to prove that it was situated in Syria, or

Palestine, or Arabia, or Persia, or Armenia, or Assyria, or India,

or China, or Tartary. Still others, who were a little more specific

in their speculations, placed the Garden of Eden on the banks of the

Ganges, in the Canaries, or in Ceylon, or on the Mountains of the Moon,

where the Nile was supposed to have its source. Hebron, Jerusalem,

Damascus, and Babylon have each been considered as being on the

identical spot where our first parents were created and where they fell

from their high estate.

The Benedictine, Ralph Higden, who follows the opinion of some of

the Fathers of the Church, tells us in his _Polychronicon_ that

the Terrestrial Paradise is in an inaccessible region in Eastern

Asia. Gautier de Metz, in his _Image du Monde_, is in essential

agreement with the learned Benedictine as to the location of the

Garden of Eden. It is, he avers, surrounded by flames, and access

to it through its single gate is precluded by an armed angel who is

always on guard. Lambertus Floridus describes the primeval home of

our race as an island in the Eastern ocean--_Paradisus insula in

oceano in oriente_. But, like Gautier de Metz, he declares it to be

inaccessible because it is surrounded by a wall of fire.

Peter Lombard, the famous Master of the Sentences, who is followed by

other mediæval writers, teaches that Paradise is located on a very high

mountain in Eastern Asia--so high that the waters of the Deluge, which

rose above the summit of Ararat, submerged only its base.[462] Another

author informs us that “Paradise is neither in heaven nor on earth....

It is forty fathoms higher than Noah’s flood was and it hangeth between

heaven and earth wonderfully, as the Ruler of all things made it....

There is there neither hollow nor hill; nor is there frost nor snow,

hail or rain, but there is _fons vitæ_, that is, the well of

life.... There is there neither heat nor hunger, nor is there ever

night, but always day. The sun there shines seven times brighter than

on this earth. Therein dwell innumerable angels of God with the holy

souls till doomsday.”[463]

Of similar import is the description of Paradise contained in

an Anglo-Saxon poem--a translation of the “De Phœnice” of the

Pseudo-Lactantius--in which the poet declares:

_I have heard tell_

_That there is far hence_

_In eastern parts_

_A land most noble_

_Amongst men renowned._

_That tract of earth is not_

_Over mid earth_

_Fellow to many_

_Peopled lands;_

_But it is withdrawn_

_Through the Creator’s might_

_From wicked doers._

_Beauteous is all the plain,_

_With delight blessed,_

_With the sweetest_

_Of earth’s odors._

From the time of Indicopleustes, who flourished in the sixth century,

to our own, travelers and explorers have sought for the Garden of Eden,

and geographers have indicated on their maps the places they imagined

it should occupy. Some were satisfied with a conjectural location,

but others, basing their speculations on the data given in the second

chapter of Genesis, were minded that the problem was so simple that it

could be answered off-hand. They were quite like Hudibras who

_Knew the seat of Paradise,_

_Could tell in what degree it lies,_

_And as he was disposed could prove it_

_Above the moon or below it._

In a letter purporting to have been written to the Emperor Manual

Comnenus, the mythical king Prester John declares that Paradise is

situated within three days’ journey of his own empire, but whether this

empire is in Asia or Africa is not made clear.

The river Indus which issues out of Paradise [he writes] flows

among the plains through a certain province and it expands,

embracing the whole province with its various windings. There

are found emeralds, sapphires, topazes, chrysolites, onyx,

beryl, sardius and many other precious stones. At the base of

Mount Olympus, located in the dominions of Prester John, there

is [the king continues] a marvelous fountain and from hour to

hour and day to day the taste of this fountain varies and its

source is hardly three days’ journey from Paradise from which

Adam was expelled. If any man drinks thrice of this fountain he

will from that day feel no infirmity and he will, as long as he

lives, appear of the age of thirty.

Sir John Mandeville, the reputed author of a celebrated travel book,

which, he assures us, was “proved for true” by the Pope’s councils,

places Paradise “beyond the lands and isles and deserts of Prester

John’s lordship.”...

Of Paradise [he tells us] I cannot speak properly, for I was

not there.... I repent not going there, but I was not worthy.

But [he continues] Terrestrial Paradise, as wise men say, is

the highest place of the earth; and is so high that it nearly

touches the circle of the moon there as the moon makes her turn.

You shall understand [he writes] that no mortal may approach

to that Paradise; for by land no man may go, for wild beasts

that are in the deserts and for the high mountains and great,

huge rocks that no man may pass by for the dark places that are

there; and by the rivers may no man go, for the water runs so

roughly and so sharply, because it comes down so outrageously

from the high places above, that it runs in so great waves that

no ship may row or sail against it; and the water roars so and

makes so huge a noise, and so great a tempest, that no man may

hear another in the ship, though he cried with all the might

he could. Many great lords have essayed with great will many

times to pass by those rivers towards Paradise with full great

companies, but they might not speed on their voyage; and many

died for weariness of rowing against the strong waves; and many

of them became blind and many deaf from the noise of the water;

and some perished and were lost in the waves, so that no mortal

man may approach to that place without the special grace of

God.[464]

Columbus, as we learn from his letters, thought he had found the site

of the Garden of Eden in the northern part of South America. True, he

was not aware that he had discovered a new continent. He was under

the impression that he was on the east coast of Asia, the ocean-laved

shores of far-off Cathay. He accepted as true one of the traditional

beliefs which located Paradise in farther India, or yet more to

the eastward and was fully persuaded that he had, in the Orinoco,

discovered one of the rivers that watered Eden.

Writing to his Royal patrons, Ferdinand and Isabella, of the region at

the headwaters of the Orinoco, he says:

I have no doubt that, if I could pass below the equinoctial

line, after reaching the highest point of which I have spoken,

I should find a much milder temperature and a variation in the

stars and in the water; not that I suppose that elevated point

to be navigable, nor indeed that there is any water there;

indeed I believe it impossible to ascend thither, because I am

convinced that it is the spot of the Earthly Paradise whither no

one can go but by God’s permission.

[Continuing, he adds] There are great indications of this being

the Terrestrial Paradise, for its site coincides with the

opinions of the holy and wise theologians whom I have mentioned;

and moreover the other evidences agree with the supposition,

for I have never either read or heard of fresh water coming in

so large a quantity in close conjunction with the water of

the sea; the idea is also corroborated by the blandness of the

temperature; and, if the water of which I speak does not proceed

from the Earthly Paradise, it appears to be more marvelous, for

I do not believe that there is any river in the world so large

and so deep.

The more I reason on the subject [he concludes] the more

satisfied I become that the Terrestrial Paradise is situated

on the spot I have described; and I ground my opinion upon the

arguments and authorities already quoted. May it please the

Lord to grant your Highnesses a long life and health and peace

to follow out so noble an investigation in which I think our

Lord will receive great service, Spain considerable increase of

its greatness and all Christians much consolation and pleasure,

because by this means the name of the Lord will be published

abroad.[465]

But Columbus was not the only one to locate the original home of our

race in South America. Only a few years ago a patriotic Bolivian

scholar, Emeterio Villamil, maintained that the site of the Garden of

Eden was on the eastern slope of the mighty Sorata, while the Argentine

geologist, Dr. Ameghino, contended that the mother region of mankind

was within the shadow of Monte Hermoso, in southern Argentina. There

could be no doubt about it. For did he not here discover the skeleton

of the first man? And did he not testify to the faith that was in him

by giving to the Argentine Adam the imposing name of _Tetraprothomo

Argentinus_?

According to M. Mayo, however, all those who would place humanity’s

first hearthstone in Asia, or in Europe, or in America were entirely

mistaken. In an ingenious study on “Les Secrets de Pyramides de

Memphis”[466] he argues that the desert of Sahara embraces what was

once the Garden of Eden. True, it is now a bleak and arid desert, but

he believes it was once a land of marvelous beauty and fertility.

There was a time, he avers, when it was watered by large rivers and

meandering streams; when it was covered with rich verdure and luxurious

vegetation; when it was densely populated and the happy home of a

peaceful and prosperous people. A new reading of Genesis, in the light

of certain hieroglyphical inscriptions of the twelfth dynasty regarding

the pyramid of Cheops will, he assures us, solve the mystery that has

so long enshrouded the famed monument of Gizeh and reveal the reason

why all attempts hitherto made to localize the Paradise of Scripture

have proved futile. The Nile, he will have it, formerly flowed through

the Sahara where it divided into four branches, constituting the

quadrifurcate river of Genesis. At this time the people of Egypt,

who even then were a powerful and highly civilized nation, suffered

from lack of water and cast about to increase their supply of this

all-important element. They obtained it by deflecting the course of

the Nile and directing it through their own country. By making a large

cut or ditch through an elevation near Khartoum they appropriated to

themselves the waters of the great reservoirs of equatorial Africa

and shut off from their neighbors in the Sahara the only source of

irrigation on which their country could depend. It was thus, according

to this quixotic Frenchman, not God but man who closed Paradise and

made entrance into it impossible by taking from it the water that gave

it fecundity and life.

“Fudge,” vociferates Ignatius Donnelly. “Amen,” ejaculates Unger.

Paradise according to these worthies was not situated in any of the

existing continents, for its seat, as can be proved, was in the lost

Atlantis. Accepting Plato’s account of the Atlantis, as given in

the Timæus, as veritable history, the paradoxical Donnelly attempts

to show that Atlantis was not only the Garden of Eden but also the

only possible center of distribution for the various races which now

people the Old and the New World. And more than this. Not only, he

asseverates, “was it the original home of mankind but it was likewise

the focus whence have eradiated all our cereals and most useful plants

and fruits and all our domestic animals.”[467] Here, too, he claims,

many of the most valuable inventions which ever blessed our race had

their origin. In a word, if we are to believe this plausible author,

Atlantis was the home of art, science, and literature and the people

who inhabited it not only enjoyed all the peace and happiness of which

the ancient poets speak as being the lot of the privileged mortals of

the Golden Age but they were the prototypes of the gods, demi-gods, and

heroes of a later and less fortunate period.

“Nonsense,” exclaim Dr. Warren, Count Saporta, and the German

astronomer, Herr Kohl. Basing their opinions on certain forced

interpretations of various ancient legends and traditions and on the

results of scientific explorations of the regions within the Arctic

Circle, these gentlemen reach the startling conclusion that the first

home of our race was in the circumpolar North.

The investigations of botanists, they remind us, declare the singular,

but as yet inexplicable fact, that “all the floral types and forms

revealed in the oldest fossils in the earth, originated in the region

of the North Pole and thence spread first over the northern and then

over the southern hemisphere, proceeding from north to south.” The

same may also be said of numerous and important representatives of the

world’s fauna. Why then, they inquire, are we not justified in placing

humanity’s birthplace where the animals and plants which serve man and

on which he subsists and which have accompanied him on his migrations

over the earth’s surface are known to have originated? “Only from

the circumpolar regions of the North,” affirms Count Saporta, “could

primitive humanity have radiated as from a center to spread into the

several continents at once and to give rise to successive emigrations

toward the south. This theory best agrees with the presumed march of

the human races.”[468]

At the North Pole of the earth, therefore, “the sacred quarter of the

world,” “the navel of the earth,” “the mesomphalos,” “the _umbilicus

orbis terrarum_,” are we to look for the long lost Eden, for the

cradle of mankind. There where the _aurora borealis_ is seen in

all its splendor, under a canopy formed by palpitating and wafting

draperies, quivering curtains and shining streamers of primatic hues of

varying intensity and matchless brilliancy our first parents spent the

first happy days of their existence and there, amid a frozen desolation

lie buried the “hearthstone of Humanity’s earliest and loveliest

home.”[469]

But the views of those who have located Paradise in “the fairie North”

have been no more satisfactory than the contentions of those who have

placed it on the elevated plateau of the Andes, or on the top of a

cloud-piercing mountain of farther India or beneath the shifting sands

of the Sahara or in the fabled Atlantis or in some mythical Hyperborean

land which has been ice bound for a million years or more. Far from

it. So fascinating, however, is the subject that men of science still

continue the quest of humanity’s original dwelling place and still

elaborate theories respecting its location that are quite as fantastic

as were those of the speculators and paradox mongers of the past. Thus,

according to Hasse, it was in Prussia on the shores of the Baltic;

Herder imagined it to have been in Cashmere; Livingstone sought it in

equatorial Africa and hoped to find it at the headwaters of the Nile,

if he could be fortunate enough to discover them. Daumer maintained

that it was in Australia whence man emigrated to America and thence, by

way of Behring’s Straits, to Asia and Europe.

The eminent anthropologist, Quaterfages de Bréau, is disposed to

consider the lofty plateau of Pamir as the original hearthstone of

mankind.[470] This is also the view of the distinguished Orientalist,

François Lenormant, whose investigations have led him to believe

that the four rivers--the Phison, the Gehon, the Tigris, and the

Euphrates--which watered Gan-Eden, or Paradise, were what are now known

as the Indus, the Oxus, the Tarin, and the Jaxartes.[471]

Here, too, curiously enough, on this “Roof of the world”; on this

“central Boss of Asia,” is the spot where the puranas locate the holy

Mount Meru, the primeval Aryan Paradise; the center, according to the

traditions of the Parsees, whence radiated the first Aryan migrations,

and one of the regions of the earth which even Mohammedan teaching has

assigned as the cradle-land of our species.[472]

From the foregoing opinions entertained by divers authors the reader

can infer how prominent a part wild conjecture, unbridled fancy, and

love of learned paradox have played in the numerous investigations

which at various times have been made with a view of determining the

geographical seat of Paradise. And, be it remembered, allusion has

been made to only a few of the opinions that have in times past been

promulgated respecting humanity’s pristine home. Nearly a hundred

different theories regarding the birthplace of our race have been

advocated at one time or another, practically all of which are now

discarded as highly fanciful or supremely ridiculous.

Must we, then, as many have done, look upon the Garden of Eden as

a religious or a philosophic myth? Has modern research--especially

research in the domain of the new science of Assyriology--done nothing

toward clearing up the mystery which has so long enveloped the site of

the Biblical Paradise, or are we forever to renounce all hope of even

an approximate solution of the great enigma? Not at all. We can still

say with the Florentine Poet, Leonardo Dati:

_Asia è la prima parte dove l’unomo,_

_Sendo innocente stava in Paradiso._

And leaving out of consideration the vagaries of certain transformists

and polygenists and the lucubrations of certain noted paradoxers like

those just referred to, it may be asserted of a truth that the general

consensus of the highest and most trustworthy authorities is agreed in

locating the cradle of humanity somewhere in that part of Asia which is

embraced by the Tigris and the Euphrates.

There would, probably, never have been much doubt about this matter,

at least on the part of Scriptural scholars, had it not been for the

imperfect geographical knowledge of early Christian writers and for the

errors that had been given currency by The Seventy in their version of

the Old Testament from Hebrew into Greek. They made no mistake about

the Tigris and the Euphrates, which were well known to them, but when

it came to the Phison and the Gehon they went completely astray and

gave to these two rivers an interpretation which was accepted without

question by even the most learned Biblical exegetes for more than a

thousand years. For, in their identification of the Phison with the

Ganges and the Gehon with the Nile, they so confused all researches

respecting the actual site of the Terrestrial Paradise that it was not

until long centuries afterwards that students of the Genesiac narrative

bethought themselves of making a more serious study of the Sacred Text.

Reading carefully the second chapter of Genesis they discovered that

many had been misled by a misunderstanding of the eighth verse. There,

according to the Vulgate, it is stated that “the Lord God planted

a paradise of pleasure from _the beginning_.” But a careful

examination of the Hebrew word, _mid-quedem_, which is here

made to signify the beginning, should, they found, indicate space

rather than time. The real sense of the words above quoted should,

therefore, be: “The Lord God planted a garden eastward in Eden.” And

they furthermore discovered that the word _mid-quedem_ meant

_eastward_ from Palestine and not, as some had imagined, eastward

from Babylonia.[473]

The site of Eden, it now seemed clear, should be sought for eastward

of Palestine where the writer of the Genesiac narrative lived and

somewhere between the well-known rivers, the Tigris and the Euphrates.

This greatly reduced the area in which the Terrestrial Paradise was

presumed to have been located. For, if the Biblical account of Eden

was to be interpreted literally, it necessarily followed that it must

have been placed somewhere in that peninsular tract of land which is

included between the Tigris and the Euphrates and which extends from

their sources--very near each other--in the highlands of Armenia to

their confluence in the lowlands of Babylonia near the Persian Gulf.

Guided by these indications of the narrative of Genesis, the learned

Benedictine, Dom Calmet, fancied that the seat of Paradise was in

the rich plateau of Armenia where even to-day are found some of the

most fertile valleys in the world. This opinion, it is avouched by

the followers of the distinguished Benedictine, is corroborated by a

popular tradition in Armenia which locates the Garden of Eden in the

oasis of Ordubad, on the right bank of the Aras.[474]

The four rivers, according to Dom Calmet’s theory, which watered

Paradise, are the Tigris and the Euphrates--whose sources are only an

hour’s journey from each other--and the Phasis and Araxes mentioned by

Pliny and Strabo. It is interesting to note that the sources of all

four of these rivers are very near one another, but it is still more

interesting to observe that the land which is watered by the Phasis and

which is supposed, according to Calmet’s theory, to be the Hevilath of

Genesis, “where gold groweth,” corresponds with the Colchis whither the

Argonauts sailed in quest of the Golden Fleece.

An objection to this theory is that it does not harmonize with the

words of Genesis which declare that the river which went out of

Paradise “is divided into four heads,” that is, into four branches. The

natural meaning of these words is that the four rivers mentioned in

the Edenic narrative had one and the same source. But each river, as

has been said, has its own distinct source. The only answer that the

defenders of the theory have been able to give is one that is warranted

by no known fact--namely that past revolutions of the earth’s surface

have materially changed the topography of the original site of the

Garden of Eden.[475]

There were many other objections to the theory which located the

Paradise of Delights at the headwaters of the Tigris and the Euphrates.

Not the least of these was the rigorous climate of the Armenian

uplands. For this reason, and for others that need not here be

specified, scholars began to consider more favorably the hypothesis

which placed the Garden of Eden somewhere in southern Babylonia. Among

the first of these was John Calvin. He identifies the Gehon and the

Phison with the Tigris and the Euphrates, in as much as he gives the

names Gehon and Phison to the two lower reaches of these rivers, which

connect the Shat-el-Arab with the Persian Gulf.[476] But Calvin’s

theory regarding the location of Paradise is at variance with the

words of the Sacred Text while his assumption of the antiquity of the

two channels which connect the Shat-el-Arab with the Persian Gulf is

completely negatived by the teachings of science respecting the recent

formation of these watercourses.

The first one who ventured to state precisely in what part of

Babylonia Eden was located was Pierre Daniel Huet, the learned bishop

of Avranches. This he did in his celebrated _Tractatus de Situ

Paradisi_, a book which had so great a vogue that it passed through

many editions and was translated into several languages. So clear to

him were the indications of the Genesiac narrative respecting the site

of Paradise that he declares “I have often marveled that interpreters

have shut their eyes to them and have worried with many and so various

conjectures which were so little in keeping with the plain words of

the Sacred Text.” As for himself he had no doubt about the site of the

Garden of Eden. He was sure he could indicate the exact spot where the

first pair lived before the fall. It was, he opined, in a bend of the

river now known as the Shat-el-Arab and at a point which, according

to Ptolemy’s map, is located in latitude 32° 39´ and in longitude 80°

10´. This, as the map drawn to illustrate his view shows, was near

Aracca--the Erech of Scripture.

Huet’s view as to the location of Paradise was essentially the same

as that of Calvin whose theory was closely followed not only by the

theologians of Louvain but also by Joseph Scaliger--the father of

modern chronology--and by other scholars innumerable. But, although

the good bishop thought he had determined the exact spot where the

first human pair first saw the light of day and, although very many

of his contemporaries seemed to share his views, it was not long

until other hypotheses were promulgated regarding the much disputed

site of humanity’s original home. Not counting, however, the fanciful

and ingenious speculations of certain authors already mentioned, the

general consensus of scholars, since the time of Dom Calmet, seems to

have favored southern Babylonia as the land in which “the Lord God

planted” the ever-mysterious, the ever-elusive Garden of Eden.

This is particularly true since investigators have had the powerful aid

of the new and all-important sciences of geology and Assyriology. They

have eliminated many fantastic notions that so long marred the works of

the most serious men of science and have shown that certain assumptions

formerly made by exegetes must now be regarded as quite impossible.

And the general trend of these two sciences has been to illumine and

corroborate the much debated statements of the second chapter of

Genesis in the most unexpected manner.

Thus, one of the oldest accounts of Creation, as given in a cuneiform

inscription discovered some decades ago by the noted Orientalist, T.

F. Pinches, “carries us directly to Babylonia. In this the creation

of the earth is but a preparation for that of the Garden which stood

eastward in Eden, in the center, it would seem of the world. The garden

was watered by a river which after fulfilling its work was parted into

‘four heads’ and flowed in four different streams. Of these two were

the great rivers of the Babylonian plain, the Tigris and the Euphrates;

the others bear names which have not yet been identified with certainty.

“The scenery, however, is entirely Babylonian. The Eden itself,

in which the garden was planted, was the plain of Babylonia. This

we know from the evidence of the cuneiform texts. It was called

by its inhabitants Edinu, a word borrowed by the Semites from the

Accado-Sumerian _edin_, ‘the (fertile) plain.’ To the East of it

lay the land of the ‘nomads,’ termed Nod in Genesis and Manda in the

inscriptions. The river which watered the Garden was the Persian Gulf,

known to the Babylonians as ‘the river,’ or more fully ‘the bitter’ or

‘salt river.’ It was regarded as the source of the four other rivers

whose ‘heads’ were the spots where they flowed into the source which at

once received and fed them.”[477]

Regarding the rivers which are mentioned in the Edenic narrative, Mr.

Sayce, the distinguished Orientalist, seems to have no doubt. Chief

among them are the Tigris and the Euphrates whose names date back to

early Accadian times. “Though it is questionable,” he writes, “whether

the names of the Pison and the Gihon have hitherto been detected on

the cuneiform monuments, it is not difficult to determine the rivers

with which they must be identified.“[478] These rivers, he endeavors

to show, must have been the Kerkhah, the Choaspes of the classical

writers, and a stream which is now represented by the Pallakopas Canal.

In the first of these two rivers he sees the Gehon of Genesis which

”compasseth the whole land of Cush,” while in the second he recognizes

the Phison which “compasseth the whole land of Havilah.”

As to the location of Eden it was, according to Accado-Sumerian

inscriptions, near the sacred city of Eridu which, some six thousand

years ago, was “the great seaport of Babylonia,” but of which nothing

now remains but “the rubbish heaps of Abu-Shahrein.” “When Eridu still

stood on the seacoast,” continues Sayce, “not only the Tigris but other

rivers also flowed into the Persian Gulf. The great salt ‘river,’ as

it was termed, received the waters of four in all at no great distance

from the walls of Eridu.”[479]

As seen from the foregoing paragraphs, Sayce like Calvin, Huet, and

many other scholars, also places the Garden of Eden in southern

Babylonia and only about twenty miles from the spot so confidently

indicated by the scholarly bishop of Avranches as the site of the

Terrestrial Paradise.

No less interesting than Sayce’s view, which is based entirely on

the teachings of Assyriology, is the conclusion arrived at by the

noted Canadian investigator, J. W. Dawson, from data supplied by the

science of geology of which he was a recognized master. With Sayce he

agrees that the Kerkhah is the Gehon of Genesis but contends that the

river Karun, instead of the Pallakopas Canal, as his English confrère

maintains, is the Phison.

We thus find, that if we place our ancient geographer [the

author of the second chapter of Genesis] where he places

himself, and suppose he refers to the Euphrates and the three

principal rivers confluent with it near its entrance into the

Persian Gulf, we obtain a clear idea of his meaning and find

that, whatever the sources of his information respecting the

antediluvian Eden, he had correct ideas of the Idinu of his own

time and of its surrounding inhabitants. According to him, the

primitive seat of man was in the south of the Babylonian plain,

in an irrigated district of great fertility and having in its

vicinity mountain tracts abounding in such mineral products as

were of use to primeval man.[480]

Curiously enough, it is near the locality designated by Huet and Sayce

and Dawson as the site of the Garden of Eden that an age-old tradition

of the Babylonian Arabs has located the Terrestrial Paradise. For

it is at Kurna at the present confluence of the Euphrates and the

Tigris, a spot noted for its beautiful and stately date palms--trees so

characteristic of southern Babylonia where its fruit has always formed

the staple food of its inhabitants--that this tradition places the

pristine home of Adam and Eve. Aside from any legends that might have

been associated with it, its lovely palm grove must have made so strong

an impression on the swarthy sons of the desert that they naturally

concluded that it could have been naught else but a beautiful vestige

of the original Garden of Eden where the first human pair enjoyed

supreme happiness during their short life of original innocence.

The great difficulty in localizing the site of the Terrestrial Paradise

has hitherto arisen from the impossibility of identifying with any

degree of certainty the rivers Gehon and Phison. Assyriologists,

however, are optimistic enough to believe that some document will

eventually be discovered among the cuneiform inscriptions still

buried beneath the ruins of ancient Babylonia that shall settle this

long controverted question to the satisfaction of the most critical

investigator.

But, in the absence of the tablet or monument which is to supply us

with the eagerly sought information respecting these two puzzling

rivers, exegetes and historians, geologists and archæologists,

Assyriologists and anthropologists still continue their quest of some

clue that may enable them to solve the riddle which has hitherto so

completely baffled every attempt at its solution.

Among the most distinguished of recent scholars who have essayed to

clear up the mystery are the German savants, E. Glaser and F. Hommel.

The former, as the result of a careful study of the geographical

indications given in the cuneiform inscriptions, arrives at a

conclusion which, so far as it respects two of the rivers named in

the Biblical account of Eden, is _toto cœlo_ different from that

of any of his predecessors in this fascinating field of inquiry. For

he insists, surprising as it may seem, that the Gehon is the Wadi

al-Rummah and the Phison the Wadi Dawasir which, in early post-glacial

times were two great rivers that, after flowing eastward through

central Arabia, became confluent with the Tigris and the Euphrates at

a point near the Persian Gulf. This was, we are told, when Arabia,

now a sun-parched desert, was a land of magnificent forests and

luxuriant vegetation; of extensive and fertile prairies watered by

frequent rains; of a temperate and equable climate--an ideal home for

a people who were yet ignorant of the arts of civilized life and whose

only shelter was abodes of the most primitive type. Glaser, however,

agrees with those of his predecessors who locate the Garden of Eden in

southern Babylonia.[481]

Professor Hommel, of Munich, goes still farther for, not content with

identifying the Gehon and the Phison with the two wadis demanded by his

learned compatriot’s novel theory, he contends that the Hiddikel of

Genesis--usually called the Tigris--was none other than the Wady Sirhan

which traverses northern Arabia and anciently emptied its waters into

the Euphrates near Kufah.[482] According to this theory, the three

Arabic rivers mentioned formerly discharged their waters into a shallow

estuary at points not far distant from one another. This estuary has

long since been replaced by the alluvial land of southern Babylonia and

through it the lower bed of the Euphrates now passes on its way to the

Persian Gulf. Like Huet, Sayce, Dawson, and Glaser, Hommel also teaches

that the Garden of Eden must be sought in the Babylonian lowland

and somewhere near the confluence of the three Arabian rivers just

mentioned with the lower Euphrates.

All these eminent exegetes and men of science--and countless others

might be named--are at one with Prince Caetani--justly esteemed for his

contributions to our knowledge of the Near East--when he declares that

the description of the Terrestrial Paradise, as given in the Sacred

Text, in no wise “alludes to an imaginary place, but, on the contrary

delineates with great precision a real and determinate locality in

western Asia. This it does not only by naming the four rivers which

arise in it but also by specifying the countries watered by them and by

giving a list of their principal products.

“It is clear that the author of the Genesiac narrative had in view a

place that was well known and that he took pains to describe it so

minutely that there could be no doubt whatever regarding the country

which he wished to indicate.”[483]

But of all the recent works which locate the site of Eden in Babylonia

none has attracted more attention or produced a profounder impression

than Professor Delitzsch’s masterly _Wo Lag das Paradies_. The

fact that its author is recognized as the most eminent of contemporary

Assyriologists and as one who has in lower Mesopotamia made a careful

and special topographical study of the region which he designates as

Gan-Eden and in which he places the Terrestrial Paradise, gives to his

interpretation of the Genesiac record respecting the Garden of Eden

an importance that no one can ignore. In his opinion the four rivers

mentioned in the second chapter of Genesis are the Euphrates, the

Tigris, and the two watercourses now known as the Shatt en-Nil, which

he maintains corresponds with the Gehon, and the Pallakopas Canal which

he identifies with the Phison. I refer the reader to the author’s work

for his reasons for arriving at these conclusions. The interesting fact

is that he agrees with the other eminent scholars above-mentioned in

placing Gan-Eden--the Hebrew name for the Garden of Eden--in Southern

Babylonia, although slightly farther northward than do some of the

other noted workers in the same field of research. According to the

interesting map, at the end of the volume, with which the learned

professor has illustrated his book, Gan-Eden occupied the tract of land

between Bagdad and Babylon. This is where the Tigris and the Euphrates

most nearly approach each other before their final confluence much

farther towards the south.[484]

Were we, then, really traversing the Garden of Eden on our way from

the city of the Caliphs to the capital of Nebuchadnezzar? Tradition

and legend, history, geology and Assyriology, as interpreted by the

most eminent scholars of our time answer in the affirmative. Needless

to say, I loved to think so. Indeed, during our entire journey through

this mysterious land which has filled so large a page in the annals of

our race, I thought of little else. Fancy was active. I needed only to

close my eyes to surrounding realities to feel that I was literally

wandering through the fragrant and mystic groves of Paradise. I was

as a music lover under the spell of Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony or as

one entranced by the sublime harmonies of Wagner’s Parsifal. Oblivious

of my actual environment and indifferent, for the time being, to the

theories and hypotheses of men of science respecting the site of

the Terrestrial Paradise, I thought only of the simple narrative of

Genesis and the pictures, based upon it, which, in my early youth, my

imagination was wont to portray of the home of our first parents. I

recalled Dante’s description of the beauties of the Paradise where he

met his beloved Beatrice, from whom he had been so long separated and

where he was made

_Pure and disposed to mount unto the stars_.[485]

Yes, youthful impressions and poetic fancies embalmed in immortal

verse meant more to me than did the latest teachings of geologists and

Assyriologists with all their display of learning and cocksureness.

This was particularly true when we first caught sight of the

palm-fringed Euphrates and the sand-mantled ruins of Babylon. The

Euphrates is the one river which the great majority of serious students

have always held was, without doubt, one of the four rivers of Eden.

And Babylon, I hardly know why, I have always looked upon as being as

intimately associated with the cradle of our race as is the Euphrates.

Both of them were then to me tangible landmarks on the site of the

Terrestrial Paradise and when I read _Wo Lag das Paradies_ I could

not but hope that future researches would prove that the scholarly

Berlin Professor had at last succeeded in locating the site of

humanity’s birthplace and, in so doing, had definitively solved one of

the greatest riddles of the ages.

And as we came near to Hillah--which is supposed to have formed a part

of Babylon in the days of its greatness--and caught our first view of

its magnificent groves of date palms, I loved to fancy that they were,

as the Talmud teaches, the actual scions of those which flourished in

the “Garden of God” and which supplied food and shelter to the father

and mother of mankind.

But a more charming sight was awaiting us. It was a beautiful garden

adjoining the home where a kindly and well-to-do Arab gave us

hospitality while we visited Babylon and its vicinity. In this garden

were stately date palms, waving lazily in the soft and scented breeze,

orange and other trees laden with golden fruits, and the plantain named

the _Musa Paradisaica_[486] and countless flowers of most gorgeous

colors and most grateful fragrance. How vividly this garden recalled

the one by God “in the East of Eden planted,” of which Milton sings:

_In this pleasant soil_

_His far more pleasant Garden God ordain’d;_

_Out of the fertile ground he caused to grow_

_All trees of noblest kind for sight, smell, taste._

And how a favored nook, distinguished by a riot of flowers, caused this

fair garden to remind us still more vividly of the blissful bower where

our first parents found their happiest and most blissful home! Watered

by “many a rill” of the Edenic river which flowed gently by it,

_It was a place_

_Chosen by the sov’reign planter, when he framed_

_All things to man’s delightful use; the roof_

_Of thickest covert was inwoven shade,_

_Laurel and myrtle, and what higher grew_

_Of firm and fragrant leaf; on either side_

_Acanthus and each odorous, bushy shrub,_

_Fenced up the verdant wall, each beauteous flower,_

_Iris all hues, roses and jessamin_

_Rear’d high their flourish’d heads between and wrought

Mosaic; under foot the violet,_

_Crocus and hyacinth with rich inlay_

_Broider’d the ground, more color’d than with stone_

_Of costliest emblem._[487]

Yes, as I contemplated the stately trees and ravishing shrubs and

blooms of this lovely garden on the sweetly murmuring Euphrates, I

wished to believe that the tradition which located Paradise at or near

this spot was well founded and that I was actually gazing on some of

the floral and arboreal descendants of those which here sheltered

_Adam, the goodliest man of men since born_

_His sons, the fairest of her daughters Eve._

I wished also to believe that we here saw a remnant of that spot

which was a prototype of the Garden of the Hesperides, the Elysian

Fields, the Isles of the Blessed and what was a type and figure of the

Celestial Paradise and of the home of Our Father in Heaven.

From Berlin to Bagdad and Babylon · 第 17 / 20 章