CHAPTER XVI

BAGDAD

_Romantic Bagdad! name to childhood dear,_

_Awaking terror’s thrill and pity’s tear;_

_For there the sorcerer gloomed, the genii dwelt,_

_And Love and Worth to good Al Rashid knelt;_

_Prince of the Thousand Tales! whose glorious reign_

_So brightly shines in fancy’s fair domain!_

_Whose noble deeds still Arab minstrels sing,_

_Who rivaled all but Gallia’s Knightly King._

NICOLAS MICHEL.

We entered Bagdad in the full glory of a Mesopotamian sunset. Her

mosques glowed with amber and light primrose; her minarets with the

most delicate rose and gold. The noble crowns of stately palm trees

cast masses of shade over gardens and fountains and, trembling under

a gentle breeze from Oman’s Sea, played almost mystically in the

quivering and departing sunlight. Throngs of Turks and Arabs, Kurds and

Persians pressed feverishly through the narrow streets. The color notes

of the red and green, blue and white robes of the men and women struck

a pleasant harmony with the drab of the walls and the maroon and olive

green of the fretted bay windows which projected over the gradually

darkening thoroughfares of the picturesque city of Harun-al-Rashid.

We felt ourselves at once in the thrall of the quiet and subtle

spell which the famed home of the Caliphs had cast over us, but,

notwithstanding this, we lost no time in repairing to the home of the

Carmelite Fathers, who had been advised of our arrival and who gave us

a welcome such as is accorded only by the generous and warm-hearted

missionaries of the Orient. Once under their hospitable roof we felt

that we were a member of their religious family. So fully was our

every want foreseen and our every desire anticipated that we saw

at a glance that our sojourn among these devoted fathers would be

fully as pleasant and as profitable as had been our stay among the

whole-souled Capuchins of Urfa and the zealous and scholarly Dominicans

of Mosul. Nor were we mistaken, for every hour we spent with the good

Carmelite priests of Bagdad was replete with pleasure, instruction, and

edification.

The story of the going of the Carmelites to Bagdad and the record of

their labors since their arrival there is as interesting as it is

inspiring. Their formal taking possession of the Mission of Bagdad, the

Carmelites tell us, took place in the first decade of the seventeenth

century, under the most dramatic circumstances. The zealous Father

Paul-Simon, superior of their mission in Persia, who had been sent by

the Shah as an envoy to the Sovereign Pontiff, arrived at Bagdad so

exhausted by the fatigues of a long and trying journey and the inroads

of disease that, when he reached the gate of the city, he prostrated

himself on the ground and gave up the ghost.

A little more than a quarter of a century after this tragic occurrence,

was created the Latin bishopric of Bagdad, usually known as the See

of Babylon. This was due to the progress which the Church had made

in Persia--a progress that was the result of the fruitful missionary

labors in that land of Carmelites, Jesuits, and Dominicans and to

the protection and liberty which had been accorded them by the wise

and enlightened Shah, Abbas the Great. Recognizing the necessity of

a bishop as head of the Persian mission, Abbas, in 1830, sent Father

Thaddée, a Carmelite, to Rome, to request the Holy Father to create a

Latin bishopric in Ispahan, his capital, with a permanent coadjutorship

which should guarantee the new episcopate from too long vacancies. As a

result of the Persian monarch’s interest in the Church, Father Thaddée

was promoted to the new See of Ispahan. He received as coadjutor Father

Perez, likewise a Carmelite, who was given the specially created title

of Bishop of Babylonia, which at that time was a part of the Persian

Empire.

In the meantime, a pious lady of Meaux, France--Marie Ricouard--put at

the disposition of the Holy See six thousand Spanish doubloons for the

creation and endowment of a bishopric in _partibus infidelibus_,

on the double condition that to the donor should be reserved the

presentation of the first titular and that the following bishops should

always be of French nationality.

Pope Urban VIII by his bull, _Super Universas_, decreed in June

1838, that the sum named should be appropriated to the See of “Babylon

or Bagdad,” with the formal stipulation that all future incumbents

of this bishopric should be obliged to reside there personally under

pain of forfeiting all right to the fruits of the Ricouard foundation.

At the same time the Sovereign Pontiff named as the first bishop

of the new see Father Bernard de Sainte-Thérèse, of Paris, who had

been proposed by the donor of the fund mentioned, and ordained that

thenceforth no one should be promoted to this see unless he had been

born in France. This wish of the Pope and of the pious donor has thus

far never been transgressed, and there is no reason to doubt that it

will continue to assure to France the honor of seeing one of her sons

occupy the See of Bagdad.[420]

In the year 1677 a special act, signed at Constantinople by the

Ambassador of Louis XIV, named the superior of the Carmelites in

Basra consul of France, _in perpetuum_. At a later date the

French King gave the title and prerogatives of consul to the Bishop

of Bagdad. This was an immense help to the bishop in his ministry for

it gave him increased power with the civil government and enhanced

immensely his prestige among the Mohammedans. From the time of Francis

I, when a treaty of peace and amnity and commerce was signed by the

French Government and the Sublime Porte, the French had enjoyed full

religious liberty throughout the Ottoman Empire and France continued

for centuries to be with the Moslem the favored nation of Europe.[421]

But, although the consular positions which were held by the Carmelite

superior of Basra and the bishop of Bagdad and, still more, the treaty

of amnity which had been established between the French and Ottoman

governments--especially after the Ottoman Turks gained possession of

Mesopotamia in A. D. 1534--had given the French missionaries in the

Near East increased power and prestige, they still had to confront

difficulties innumerable and sacrifices that were calculated to appall

all but the noblest heroes.

Their difficulties, however, did not proceed from the followers of

Mohammed so much as from lack of material resources and from the

paucity of subjects for the ever-expanding work of the mission. So many

calls were made on their charity by the poor that they were at times

forced to live on only a single piece of dry bread a day, with nothing

to flavor it but a small clove of garlic. Then both priests and bishops

were decimated by the plague while ministering at the bedside of the

stricken members of their flock. On one occasion the Carmelite superior

of Bagdad saw himself without any assistants whatever. Age and disease

had taken them all from him one after another. In this extremity he

wrote letter after letter to his superior general in Rome, conjuring

him to send him men. “I have none, was the general’s answer; if you

want them, come and seek them.”

The superior, Father Marie-Joseph, took the general at his word. Poor

as Job, he borrowed money enough to hire a camel and alone, with

a single Arab and a sack of dates and a leather bottle of water,

he started for Aleppo on the long journey--nearly eight hundred

miles--through the inhospitable Arabian and Syrian deserts. Twice his

alertness and eloquence saved him from bands of marauding Bedouins.

But, finally, after untold difficulties and sufferings he reached

Aleppo and Rome. His superior general in the Eternal City was so

impressed by the magnificent audacity of the zealous missionary that

he found a means of procuring for him the assistants he so much needed

and sent him back to his flock rejoicing. Among these assistants was

Father Damien, formerly a practicing physician, who soon proved to be

a godsend to the suffering poor of Bagdad, whom he gladly treated and

supplied with medicine without any compensation whatever.[422]

As in the missions of Edessa and Mosul, the missionaries of Bagdad are

nobly assisted in their moral and civilizing work by devoted nuns from

France. But the life of these devoted sisters is one of the greatest

self-sacrifice. They may not, as did the Carmelite priests, have

attempted to imitate St. Peter of Alcantara, who took but one repast

and that of the most frugal kind, only once every three days; but the

privations which they for years had to endure would daunt all but the

most courageous souls. Even before they reached the scene of their

missionary activities they had to pass through an experience that, for

delicately reared women as they were, was truly disheartening for any

but those engaged in the service of the Master. This was their long

journey on horseback--in great part--through a wild and forbidding

desert from Beirut to Bagdad. They were twenty-four days in the

saddle. The nights they had to spend in the filthy, noisy, dilapidated

caravansaries which were scarcely fit shelter for the beasts that

carried them. And yet these heroic _religieuses_ always maintained

the same cheerfulness during this long and trying journey as ever

characterizes them in the performance of their arduous labors in the

schoolroom and at the bedside of the sick and suffering.[423]

But the labors of these ardent souls is not without compensation, even

in this world. Notwithstanding all the drawbacks that confront them

they have the comfort of knowing that their sacrifices are not in vain.

The number of their pupils, Mohammedans and Jews, as well as Christians

of all the numerous rites in Mesopotamia, is so rapidly augmenting,

that it is difficult for the good nuns to house them and secure enough

teachers to take care of them. For, in addition to the ordinary

branches of an elementary education, they teach their young charges

various kinds of needlework and the simpler principles of domestic

economy.

“The children of Bagdad are very bright and very eager to learn,” said

one of the sisters to me in answer to a question I had asked, “and

nowhere will you find pupils who are more studious or more grateful for

the opportunities they have of improving their minds. Our great grief

is that our school-buildings are not larger and that we have not more

sisters to meet the constantly increasing demands that are made on us

in our class-rooms. But,” she said, in sweet resignation, “the _Bon

Dieu_ will provide in His own good time.”

Never before did I so much regret that I was not a millionaire as

I did when I visited the schools of these perfervid and laborious

_religieuses_ and saw what splendid results they were achieving

with the very limited resources at their disposal and learned how much

more they could accomplish if they had the necessary means. If the

good and generous people of America could only realize the noble work

which the good Sisters of the Presentation are achieving in Bagdad and

how very worthy they are of assistance, I am sure that many would open

wide their purses for the benefit of both teachers and pupils. I know

of few places where money could be spent to better purpose. When one

remembers that these ardent souls are condemned to perpetual exile by

the atrocious _Association Laws_ of their mother country and that

they frequently lack the ordinary necessities of life because they

are unable to reach a public that would gladly succor them in their

needs and coöperate with them in their admirable work, one cannot help

sympathizing with them and feel that it is one’s duty to help them in

every way possible.

The school for boys under the direction of the Carmelite Fathers is

recognized as the best in Bagdad. It, with the church and monastery of

the Fathers, occupies a capital position in the center of the city and

is pronounced by foreigners to be “a French oasis in the midst of the

desert.”

It will interest the reader to know that the study of French is

obligatory from the lowest to the highest classes of the school. The

result is that many of the pupils speak the language with wonderful

facility and correctness. At the commencement exercises at the end of

the year they exhibit their proficiency before a large audience made

up of the élite of the city by giving a play from Racine. It is in

consequence of their thorough knowledge of the language of Molière and

Bossuet that after leaving school they are given high positions in

the leading houses of commerce and in all the administrative offices

of the government. The traveler is often surprised at the extent

to which French is spoken in the Near East; but when one remembers

that the schools and colleges in the Ottoman Empire, which are under

the direction of French priests, sisters, and laymen are numbered

by the thousand, the wonder ceases. It is for this reason that the

empire is, in the words of Pierre Loti--_presque un pays de langue

française_--almost a country of the French language.[424]

The missionaries in Bagdad--from the Archbishop down to the humblest

nun--are greatly attached to the city in which Divine Providence has

called them to labor and--to suffer. Not the least reason for this

attachment is the glorious position which Bagdad so long occupied in

the history of the world. Until the late war the average reader knew

little about it except that it was in some way associated with the

“Arabian Nights.” And this association was so vague in his mind that he

was not sure whether Bagdad ever had an actual existence or whether it,

like the famous characters in _Thousand and One Nights_, belonged

only to fable land.

For this reason it seems this chapter would be incomplete without some

account of the famous city which, during five hundred years, was the

capital of the Abbasside Caliphs; which, there is reason to believe,

was for a considerable period the largest city in the world; which,

during many centuries bore rule from the Oxus to the Nile and from the

Caucasus to the Gulf of Oman; and which, during a half millennium, was

to Islam what Rome is to Christendom.

Bagdad was founded A. D. 762, by Al-Mansur, the second of the Abbasside

Caliphs. Before deciding on a site for his capital Al-Mansur made many

journeys and carefully examined all the available locations along the

Tigris from Jarjaraya to Mosul. Moslem historians inform us that the

Caliph was finally induced to select the spot on which Bagdad now

stands by the advice of those who had lived there both in winter and

in summer and who assured him that “among all the Tigris lands this

district especially was celebrated for its freedom from the plague of

mosquitoes and that the nights, even in the height of summer, were cool

and pleasant.” “We are, furthermore, of the opinion,” they continued,

“that thou shouldst found the city here because thou shalt thereby live

amongst palms and near water, so that if one district fail thee in its

crops, or be late in its harvest, in another will the remedy be found.

Also thy city being on the Sarat Canal, provisions will be brought

thither by the boats of the Euphrates and by the caravans through the

plains, even from Egypt and Syria. Hither, up from the sea will come

the wares of China, while down the Tigris from Mosul will be brought

goods from the Byzantine lands. Thus shall thy city be safe standing

between all these streams, and thine enemy shall not reach thee,

except it be by a boat or by a bridge, and across the Tigris or the

Euphrates.”

“The practical foresight shown by the Caliph,” in the selection

of the site of his capital, “has been amply confirmed by the

subsequent history of Bagdad. The city called into existence as by an

enchanter’s wand was, during the Middle Ages, second in size only to

Constantinople, and throughout Western Asia was long unrivalled for

splendor. It at once became and remained for all subsequent centuries

the capital of Mesopotamia. Wars, sieges, the removal for a time by

the Caliphs of the seat of government to Samara, higher up the Tigris,

even the almost entire destruction of the city by the Mongols in A. D.

1258, none of these have permanently affected the supremacy of Bagdad

as the capital of the Tigris and the Euphrates country, and now, after

the lapse of over twelve centuries, the new Arabic King of Mesopotamia

still resides in the city founded by the Caliph Al-Mansur.”[425]

Many etymologies, most of them fanciful, have been given of the name

Bagdad. It is said that when Al-Mansur finally selected the site for

his capital he found it occupied by several monasteries, most of them

Nestorian, and that the capital derived its appellation from the Arabic

word _bagh_--garden,--and _Dad_--the name of a certain monk

who had a garden there. Others aver that the name is derived from two

Persian words, _Bagh_--God,--and _Dadh_--founded--signifying

a city founded by God. The official name, however, given, we are told

by the Caliph Al-Mansur himself, was Medina-as-Salam, which signifies

the “City of Peace.” But among the Saracens it was more generally

known as Dar-as-Salam, which also signifies City or Home of Peace. The

Greeks gave it a name--Eirenopolis--which is a literal translation

of the Arabic Dar-as-Salam. But it is by the older and more common

name--Bagdad--which is variously spelt--that the city of Al-Mansur has

generally been known from its foundation to the present day.

It was long thought that the capital of the Caliphs had been founded on

ground which had not previously been occupied by a dense population.

But a discovery made in 1848 by Sir Henry Rawlinson, when the waters of

the Tigris were exceptionally low, disclosed the surprising fact that

Al-Mansur had founded his capital on the site of a city that antedated

the Christian era by at least seven centuries. An extensive facing of

brickwork, which still exists, was then found to line the western bank

of the river, and each brick of this facing bore the name and titles

of Nebuchadnezzar. No less remarkable, in this connection, is a later

discovery in the Assyrian geographical catalogues, belonging to the

reign of Asurbanipal, of a name very similar to Bagdad “which probably

refers to the town then standing on the site afterwards occupied by the

capital of the Caliphs.”

Al-Mansur founded his capital, known from its peculiar form as “The

Round City,” on the right bank of the Tigris, but it was not long until

the palaces of the Caliphs and the government offices were transferred

to the eastern side of the river, where the capital has since remained,

while the part of the city on the western bank, especially the quarter

called Karkh, was given over to markets and merchants, where “every

merchant and each merchandise had an appointed street: and there were

rows of shops, and of booths and of courts in each of the streets; but

men of one business were not mixed up with those of another, nor one

merchandise with merchandise of another sort. Goods of a kind were only

sold with their kind, and men of one trade were not to be found except

with their fellows of the same craft. Thus each market was kept single

and the merchants were divided according to their merchandise, each

craftsman being separated from others not of his own class.”[426]

What greatly contributed towards the rapid development of Bagdad and

towards making it the great emporium of the East, was the admirable

system of canals which intersected the rich alluvial plains of lower

Babylonia and which enabled the inhabitants of this region to utilize

the surplus waters of the Euphrates for irrigating the fertile lands

which lay between this river and the Tigris. Contrary to what is so

often thought, the Arabs, under the Caliphs, gave as much attention to

the canalization of Mesopotamia as had their predecessors, the Persians

and the Babylonians.

But these canals, besides being used for purposes of irrigation,

likewise served for the transportation of merchandise from distant

regions. Thus, to give a single instance of their use for this purpose,

we are informed that “great boats and barges were loaded at Rakkah,

‘the port,’ as it was called, of the Syrian desert on the Upper

Euphrates, there taking over from the land-caravans the corn of Egypt

and the merchandise from Damascus; and these boats, coming down the

great river, and then along the Isa Canal, discharged their cargoes at

the wharves on the Tigris banks at the lower harbor in Karkh.”[427]

To give some idea of the fertility of the irrigated region of

Mesopotamia during the reign of the Caliphs it suffices to quote the

words of an Arabic writer regarding certain cornlands in the vicinity

of Bagdad, where, we are told, “the crops never failed, neither in

winter nor in summer,” and of the report given of a certain mill in

which there were no fewer than a hundred millstones which produced the

extraordinary annual rental of a hundred million dirhams, a sum that

was equivalent to several million dollars of our money.

Marco Polo, that king of mediæval travelers, who, by the vast compass

of his journeys, was better qualified than any man of his time to

express an opinion on the relative importance of the cities of Asia,

declares that Bagdad--which he calls Baudas--is “the noblest and

greatest city of these regions” and that it “used to be the seat of

the Caliph of all the Saracens in the world, just as Rome is the

seat of the Pope of all the Christians.”[428] But the illustrious

Venetian voyager did not visit Bagdad until several decades after the

destruction of the city by the Mongol hordes under Hulagu Khan.

The question now arises, if Bagdad was so great a metropolis only a

half century after it was ravaged by the Mongols, what must it have

been when at the zenith of its power and magnificence? Some authors

estimate that the city counted no fewer than two million souls.

D’Herbelot, the celebrated Orientalist, says that one can conjecture

the number of the inhabitants of Bagdad from a statement made by Arab

historians, who declare that the funeral of Eben Hanbal, a famous

Moslem doctor who died with a great reputation for sanctity, was

attended by eight hundred thousand men and sixty thousand women.[429]

Then again, Marco Polo tells us that the number of Christians in

Bagdad, shortly before it was sacked by Hulagu, was more than a hundred

thousand.[430] This would indicate that the population of this Saracen

city, of which a very great majority was Mohammedan, must then, in the

days of its decline, have exceeded a million. This seems clear from

what historians tell us about the “horrible butchery of men, women and

children,” which lasted forty days, when the city was sacked by the

Mongols under Hulagu.

Nearly all the inhabitants, to the number, according to

Rashid ud Din, of eight hundred thousand--Makrizi says two

million--perished, and thus passed away one of the noblest

cities that had ever graced the East--the cynosure of the

Mohammedan world, where the luxury, wealth and culture of five

centuries had concentrated.[431]

About the greatness and splendor of Bagdad before it was laid in

ashes by the Mongol invader, there can be no question. The concurrent

testimony of contemporary historians puts this beyond doubt. The walls

which surrounded the city in its infancy were such as to rival those

of ancient Babylon and Nineveh, as described by Herodotus and Diodorus

Siculus. According to the noted Jewish traveler, Benjamin of Tudela,

who visited Bagdad in the second half of the twelfth century, “the

palace of the Caliph of Bagdad is three miles in extent.”

An idea of the magnificence of the Caliph’s palaces may be gained

from an account that has come down to us of the brilliant reception

accorded the Greek ambassadors who were sent to Bagdad, A. D. 917,

by Constantine Porphyrogenitus.[432] Before being introduced to the

Commander of the Faithful, the envoys were conducted in state through

the various buildings within the palace precincts. Each of these

buildings, of which there were twenty-three in number, was a separate

palace.

One of these was the riding academy, adorned with porticoes of marble

columns.

On the right side of this house stood five hundred mares

caparisoned each with a saddle of gold or silver, while on the

left stood five hundred mares with brocade saddle-cloths and

long head-covers; also every mare was held in hand by a groom

magnificently dressed.[433]

After all this, and leading to the very presence of the Caliph, came

the officers of state and the pages of the privy council, all in

gorgeous raiment, with their swords and girdles glittering with gold

and gems. Near them were “the eunuchs and the chamberlains and the

black pages.”

The number of the eunuchs was seven thousand in all, four

thousand of them white and three thousand black; the number of

the chamberlains was also seven thousand, and the number of the

black pages, other than the eunuchs, was four thousand.... On

the Tigris there were skiffs and wherries, barques and barges

and other boats, all magnificently ornamented, duly arranged

and disposed.... The number of the hangings in the palaces

of the Caliph was thirty-eight thousand. These were curtains

of gold--of brocade embroidered with gold--all magnificently

figured with representations of drinking vessels and with

elephants and horses, camels, lions and birds.... The number of

the carpets and the mats was twenty-two thousand pieces; these

were laid in the corridors and courts....[434]

A hundred lions were brought out, every lion being held in by the hand

of its keeper. Among other spectacles of rare and stupendous luxury was

a tree of gold and silver. The tree had eighteen branches, every branch

having numerous twigs, on which sat all kinds of gold and silver birds,

both large and small. Most of the branches of this tree were of silver,

but some were of gold, and they spread into the air carrying leaves of

divers colors. The leaves of the tree moved as the wind blew, while

the birds, under the action of mechanical appliances, piped and sang.

Through this scene of magnificence the Greek ambassadors were led to

the foot of the Caliph’s throne.

The impression made on the ambassador and his suite at the sight

of such a display of wealth and luxury was, we may well believe,

not unlike that produced on the Spanish Conquistadores at the sight

of the vast treasures of Cuzco and Cajamarca, or on the astonished

ambassadors of foreign powers when they were admitted to the presence

of Abd-al-Rahman III in his gorgeous audience chamber in the famed

palace of Medina-al-Zahra.[435]

But Bagdad has more compelling claims to undying fame than those based

on gorgeous palaces, superb mosques, boundless luxury, and ostentatious

displays of fabulous wealth. This splendid capital of the Caliphs will

always live in history’s page as the seat of numerous and splendid

institutions of charity and education and as the home of Caliphs who

were the most munificent patrons of science and letters of the Middle

Ages.

Among the hospitals of Bagdad was a palatial structure with many rooms

and wards, which were furnished in elaborate style. Here the patients

were gratuitously provided with food and medicine and regularly

visited by the physicians of the city. It was here that Rhazes, the

most celebrated Mussulman physician of his time, gave his lectures and

founded the great medical school which drew students from all parts of

Western Asia. Rhazes is famous not only for his eminence as a physician

but also as a voluminous writer on medicine and for having described

smallpox nearly nine hundred years before Jenner began his noted

investigations on this dread disease.

It was, however, the colleges, of which there were more than

thirty--“each more magnificent than a palace”--that gave Bagdad

its greatest fame in the mediæval world. One of these, called the

Nizamiyah, founded by an eminent vizier who was the friend of the

poet Omar Khayyám, was, on account of its architectural splendor,

and the celebrity of its professional staff, known as the “Mother of

the colleges of Bagdad.” Among its most illustrious lecturers were

Ghazzali, celebrated as a philosopher and a theologian, and Bohadin,

who achieved eminence as a historian, as a statesman, and as the

biographer of the Sultan Saladin. The endowment of the Nizamiyah was

so princely that it sufficed not only to pay the salaries of the

professors but also to pay for the board and tuition of indigent

students.

Completely eclipsing the Nizamiyah College in its architectural

grandeur, sumptuous equipment, and wealth of endowment was the College

of the Mustansiriyah--the ruins of which still exist--which was founded

by the Caliph Mustansir, the father of Mustasim, who was put to death

by Hulago after the destruction of Bagdad. So great was the splendor of

this college that it is said to have surpassed any similar institution

in Islam. It was not only the most notable seat of learning in Bagdad,

but was also its most beautiful and imposing edifice. When one recalls

the many gorgeous palaces of the city--many of them costing fabulous

sums--one can realize what munificent patrons were Bagdad’s Caliph and

men of wealth and how well this fairy capital deserved its reputation

as the Orient’s most famous center of science and letters. It had only

one rival and that was the famous Ommaied metropolis in Spain, so

celebrated for its riches and attractions, its schools and libraries

and scholars--a city which Hroswitha, the gifted nun of Gandersheim,

has so beautifully described in a single distich:

_Corduba famosa, locuples de nomine dicta,_

_Inclyta deliciis, rebus quoque splendida cunctis._

But no description of Bagdad is complete without some account of its

more eminent Caliphs, especially of its immortal Harun-Al-Rashid, who

is “inseparably associated with the most charming collection of stories

ever invented for the solace and delight of mankind.” This brilliant

Saracen ruler has long been ranked among the illustrious men of all

time. For, notwithstanding the fact that from time immemorial legends

have gathered around his name in greater number than about those of

King Arthur, or Charlemagne, or Frederick Barbarossa, authentic history

tells us enough of his character and achievements to make the romantic

life of “Aaron the Just”--to Anglicize his name--one of supreme

fascination and abiding interest.

The Arabians [Sismondi writes] are indebted to him for the

rapid progress which they made in science and literature, for

Harun never built a mosque without attaching to it a school.

His successors followed his example, and in a short period the

sciences which were cultivated in the capital spread themselves

to the very extremities of the empire of the Caliphs. Whenever

the faithful assembled to adore the Divinity, they found in this

temple an opportunity of rendering Him the noblest homage which

His creatures can pay--by the cultivation of those faculties

with which their Creator has endowed them. Harun-Al-Rashid,

besides, was sufficiently superior to the fanaticism which

had previously animated his sect not to despise the knowledge

which the professors of another faith possessed. The head of

his schools and the first director of studies in his empire

was a Nestorian Christian of Damascus, of the name of John Ebn

Mesua.[436]

Christians were the translators of the works of Plato and Aristotle; of

Galen, Hippocrates, and Dioscorides; of Ptolemy, Euclid, and Apollonius

Pergæus.

No Caliph ever gathered round him so great a number of learned

men:--poets, jurists, grammarians, cadis and scribes,--to say

nothing of the wits and musicians who enjoyed his patronage.

Personally, too, he had every quality that could recommend

him to the literary men of his time. Harun himself was an

accomplished scholar and an excellent poet; he was well versed

in history, tradition and poetry which he could always quote on

appropriate occasions. He possessed exquisite literary taste

and unerring discernment and his dignified demeanor made him an

object of profound respect to high and low.[437]

He was, indeed, as described by his biographers, “the most

accomplished, eloquent and generous of the Caliphs,” and the stories

that are told of his lavish generosity towards scholars who frequented

his court proved that he was probably the most munificent patron of men

of science and letters that ever lived.

And yet, sad to relate, there is a dark spot in the career of

Harun-al-Rashid. This is due to his inhuman treatment of the

Barmecides, whose tragic fate at the hands of the Caliph is one of the

most shocking occurrences in oriental annals. One of this ill-fated

family, Yaya ibin Barmek, was Harun’s vizier, who, by his consummate

ability, had contributed more than any other man towards the success

of the Caliph’s reign. It was he, and not the Commander of the

Faithful, who directed the course of events that rendered the reign

of Harun-al-Rashid the culminating point of Islamic history. His son

Jaafer was the most cherished friend of the Caliph and his constant

companion in his nightly _incognito_ wanderings through the city

of Bagdad. “Harun’s attachment to Jaafer was of so extravagant a

character that he could never bear him to be absent from his side, and

he went to the absurd length of having a cloak made with two collars,

so that he and Jaafer could wear it at one and the same time.”[438]

But to wipe out a fancied indignity he did not hesitate foully

to murder his friend and companion, “by far the most lovable and

attractive character of the many that live for us in the _Thousand

and One Nights_.[439] He cast his old and loyal vizier, the father

of Jaafer, into prison. Not content with this barbarous treatment of

men to whom he owed so much, he vented his fury on their family and

did not abate his anger until he had slain more than a thousand of the

Barmecides. So great an impression did Harun’s atrocious treatment

of his best friends make on his contemporaries that it became “the

proverbial example in oriental history of the change of fortune and the

mutability of royal favor.” It is because of this barbarous cruelty

and his revolting treachery that the Harun of history is so unlike the

Harun of legend, in which he is always painted as a merry monarch--the

patron of scholars and the boon companion of congenial friends. And

it is because of this that we must refuse him his long-accorded title

of “The Just” and “The Good,” although, in view of his achievements

as a ruler and his unfailing and generous patronage of men of science

and letters, we cannot deny him the epithet of “The Great.” Were it

not for the stain on his escutcheon, due to his infamous treatment of

the Barmecides, we could, with some semblance of truth, say of this

illustrious Caliph of Bagdad, in the words of Tennyson:

_Sole star of all that place and time,_

_I saw him in his golden prime,_

_The Good Harun-al-Rashid._

One cannot speak of the services rendered to science and literature

by Harun-al-Rashid without referring to his distinguished son and

successor, the Caliph Al-Mamun. Although the power and the greatness

of the empire had suffered a notable diminution after the death of

Al-Rashid, the glory of Bagdad as a center of learning still retained

all its former luster. Some, indeed, will have it that its prestige was

enhanced and that Al-Mamun and not Harun was the father of letters and

the Augustus of the Abbasside Caliphate. For the first thing he did on

ascending the throne was to invite the Muses from their favorite seats

in the Byzantine Empire to the capital of the Caliphs on the Tigris.

Study, books and men of letters almost entirely engrossed his

attention. The learned were his favorites and his ministers

were occupied alone in forwarding the progress of literature.

It might be said that the throne of the Caliphs seemed to

have been raised for the Muses. He invited to his court from

all parts of the world all the learned with whose existence

he was acquainted, and he retained them by rewards, honors

and distinctions of every kind. He collected from the subject

provinces of Syria, Armenia and Egypt the most important

books which could be discovered, and which, in his eyes, were

the most precious tribute he could demand. The governors of

provinces and the officers of administration were directed to

amass in preference to everything else the literary relics

of the conquered countries and to carry them to the foot of

the throne. Hundreds of camels might be seen entering Bagdad

loaded with nothing but manuscripts and papers and those

which were thought to be adapted for the purpose of public

instruction were translated into Arabic that they might be

universally intelligible. Masters, instructors, translators, and

commentators formed the court of Al-Mamun, which appeared to

be rather a learned academy than the centre of government in a

warlike empire. When the Caliph dictated the terms of peace to

the Greek Emperor, Michael the Stammerer, the tribute which he

demanded from him was a collection of Greek authors.[440]

History was but repeating itself, for, as in the days of ancient Rome,

so also in the most brilliant period of Bagdad

_Græcia capta ferum victorem cepit et artes_

_Intulit agresti Latio._[441]

So great during this brilliant literary period was the love of learning

that there were in Bagdad more than a hundred booksellers. How many of

our modern cities could count so great a number? And so large were even

private libraries that we are told of a doctor of Bagdad who “refused

the invitation of the Sultan of Bokhara, because the carriage of his

books would have required four hundred camels.”[442]

Nor was it in Bagdad alone that the zeal of Harun and Mamun for the

progress of knowledge had stimulated enthusiasm for science and

letters. Under these two illustrious patrons of learning, homes of

science that almost equaled that of Bagdad were established in all

parts of the Caliphate--in Cufa and Basra; in Fez and Morocco; in Cairo

and Alexandria and Damascus; in Balk, Ispahan, and Samarcand--many of

which, in the splendor of their buildings and in the equipment of their

libraries, rivaled the famous Arabian schools of Granada, Seville,

and Cordoba, which were in their heyday “when all that was polite or

elegant in literature was classed among the _Studia Arabum_.” And

it is to be observed that these institutions, created and fostered by

the benign influence of the Caliphs, had reached the acme of their

glory when the greater part of western and northern Europe was in a

condition of comparative darkness.

But in paying this tribute to the Caliphs of Bagdad--especially

Harun-Al-Rashid and his son Al-Mamun--I do not wish to appear as

overrating their achievements in science and letters. One may, indeed,

concede that they always held literary excellence in the highest honor;

one may admit that never, not even in the days of Mæcenas and Lorenzo

the Magnificent, did men of letters receive greater encouragement

and rewards; one may acknowledge that for centuries the Saracens

were far in advance of many of the western nations of Christendom in

many branches of science and philosophy, but, granting all this, the

indisputable fact still remains that they were borrowers and not

originators.

All their achievements in philosophy, medicine, astronomy, and

mathematics were due to their Greek masters--to Plato and Aristotle;

to Galen and Dioscorides; to Hipparchus and Ptolemy; to Euclid,

Archimedes, and Eratosthenes. And it must not be forgotten that the

Saracens owed their knowledge of Greek science to Christians, for it

was Christians who translated for them the works which they were unable

to read in the original. Thus it was the Christian scholar Honein, who

was the physician to the Khalif Motowakkel, that translated into Arabic

the “Elements” of Euclid and the “Almagest” of Ptolemy; and it was his

pupils who made the Arabic versions of the greater number of the works

of Galen and Hippocrates.[443] And it was to the celebrated Christian

family, the Boktishos, and to the Nestorian school of Gondisapor, from

which issued so many scholars of distinction, that the Saracens were

indebted for versions of countless other works of Greek science and

philosophy.

Among the many learned men whom the Caliph Al-Mamun invited to his

court and “who contributed far more than his own subjects to the

reputation that sovereign has deservedly gained in the history of

science,” was Leo the Mathematician, who subsequently became the

Archbishop of Thessalonica. The Caliph desired to have made an accurate

measurement of the earth’s orbit and he called this distinguished Greek

to his court to take charge of this important work because “he was

universally recognized to be the superior to all the scientific men of

Bagdad in mathematical and mechanical knowledge.”[444]

But while the Arabs were good borrowers from Greek writers on medicine,

astronomy, and mathematics, they almost completely ignored the great

poets, orators, and historians of ancient Hellas. Never cultivating any

language but their own, they were unable to read the masterpieces of

Greek literature except in a translation, but as there was no demand

by the Saracens for translations of these works into Arabic, none were

ever made. For this reason the matchless poems of Homer and the Greek

dramatists; the orations of Lysias and Demosthenes; the histories of

Herodotus and Trucidides, were for the Saracens as so many closed

books. The noted Syriac author, Bar-Herbræus, does, indeed, mention a

version of the _Iliad_ and _Odyssey_ by a Christian Maronite

of Mount Lebanon, but his translation was into Syriac and not Arabic.

These facts show how much the great reputation of the Saracens for

learning was due to their immortal Greek masters and to the literary

activity of their Christian subjects, especially the Greeks of the

Lower Empire. It is true, as Freeman observes, that “the Arabs studied

Aristotle and taught him to the men of western Europe; but it was

surely from the men of eastern Europe that they obtained him in the

first instance. He was read in translations at Samarcand and at

Lisbon, when no one knew his name at Oxford or Edinburgh; but all the

while he continued to be read in his own tongue at Constantinople and

Thessalonica.”[445]

The impulse that Harun-al-Rashid and his son Al-Mamun gave to

educational progress by encouraging the translation of the works of

Aristotle, Galen, Ptolemy, and others of the great Greek masters will

always give their reigns a conspicuous place in the annals of science

and civilization. But the successors of these two illustrious monarchs

did not follow in their footsteps. Although the power of the Caliphate

seemed still unimpaired and its splendor was apparently undimmed, the

seeds of decay, which led to ultimate destruction, were already at

work. The vices of sloth and luxury and cruelty which prevailed at the

court and in many of the most important departments of the government

of the Caliphate, slowly but surely entailed their fatal consequences.

Besides these, there were other causes of decay and extinction. Chief

among them were internecine strife and the separation of the remoter

provinces from the central power. Added to these disintegrating factors

the Caliphate had become top-heavy, and under a weak and degenerate

ruler like Al-Mostassem, the last of the Abbassides, its downfall was

inevitable.

In contemplating the fall of the power which was for five centuries

the glory of the Moslem world, one is led to compare the close of the

reign of the last of the Caliphs with that of the last of the Byzantine

Emperors:

The last and weakest of the Caliphs without an effort of arms or

policy to stay his fall, sinks from senseless pride to craven

terror and expires amidst the tortures of a faithless victor.

The last and noblest of the Cæsars, after doing all that mortal

man could do for the deliverance of his city, himself dies in

the breach, the foremost among its defenders. Not Darius in

the hands of the traitor, not Augustulus resigning his useless

purple, not the Ætheling Edgar spared by the contempt of the

Norman Conqueror ever showed fallen greatness so dishonored

and unpitied as did Al-Mostassem Billah al Wahid, the last

Commander of the Faithful;[446] not Leonidas in the pass of

Thermopylæ, not Decius in the battle below Vesuvius, not our own

Harold upon the hill of Senlac, died a more glorious death than

Constantine Palæologus, the last Emperor of the Romans.[447]

Among the names given to Bagdad, as has been said in a preceding page,

was that of Dar-as-Salam, or Medina-as-Salam--City of Peace. In view

of the numerous vicissitudes through which the erstwhile capital of

the Caliphs has passed, the protracted sieges it has sustained, the

frightful destruction it has time and again undergone, the appalling

massacres of its inhabitants at the hands of bloodthirsty invaders, it

would be difficult to conceive a more preposterous misnomer.

We have seen what was the fate of the city when it was given over to

the savage and rapacious hordes of Hulagu Khan. But this reign of

terror was but a prelude to the horrors that befell the ill-fated city

when, less than a century and a half later, the brutal Mongols again

captured and sacked the city; when its streets streamed with the blood

of its defenders and reëchoed with the frenzied shrieks of women and

children, and when, as a climax of all this unutterable carnage,[448]

the Mongol leader, Timur, celebrated his bloody victory by erecting on

the ruins of Bagdad a gruesome pyramid of ninety thousand heads of its

slaughtered inhabitants.[449]

No wonder that the people of the East were wont to declare that

“conquest by Turks or Saracens was a blessing compared with falling

into the jaws of the implacable Mongols.” When word reached the Court

of Byzantium that the Mongols, under Timur, were approaching the city,

so great was the terror which they inspired that “popular rumor

painted the invaders as having dogs’ heads and eating human flesh.”[450]

When, in addition to all these atrocities, one recalls the deeds of

violence and savagery which afterwards followed the successive storming

and occupation of the unfortunate city by Turkomans, Persians, and

Turks, one must conclude that the proper epithet for Bagdad would have

been not Dar-as-Salam--City of Peace--but Dar-al-Harb--City of War.

“But what,” the reader inquires, “of modern Bagdad, of the Bagdad of

to-day”? Since the Muses left the fair capital of the Caliphs, long

centuries ago, little more of interest remains in it than may be found

in any other city of the Moslem East.

My first hurried view of Bagdad was in the parting splendor of sunset,

_When her shrines through the foliage were gleaming half shown,_

_And each hallow’d the hour by some rites of its own._

My eyes were then open only to what was beautiful, romantic,

picturesque.

My second view was on the following morning, from the terrace of the

Carmelite monastery. It was at the hour when the sun, in the words of

Omar Khayyám, was scattering

_Into flight_

_The Stars before him from the Field of Night._

A filmy veil of pearl-gray mist hung over the slumbering city and the

witchery of the scene was even more enthralling than that which so

captivated me the preceding evening. Presently

_The magic of daylight awakes_

_A new wonder each minute, as it slowly breaks;_

_Hills, cupolas, fountains, called forth every one_

_Out of darkness, as if just born of the Sun._

Yes, I was in Bagdad, the fairy city of boyhood’s dreams, the

glittering home of pomp and pleasure, where the fair Zobeide dwelt in a

palace with spangled floors and marble stairs with golden balustrades;

where there was a riot of broidered sofas, damask curtains, silk

tapestry, purple robes from the most famous looms of the East; where a

joyous group of bejeweled dancing girls were wont, to the sound of harp

and lute and dulcimer, to carol away, with voices as melodious as that

of Israfel, the cares and ennui of their pleasure-sated mistress.

Willingly I yielded myself to the hypnotic influence of the _spiritus

loci_. In fancy I saw Aladdin with his wonderful lamp; the one-eyed

calenders as they told their fascinating tales; the fishermen as they

deluded the heavy-witted jinn; Harun-al-Rashid and Jaffer as they

wandered under their double-collared cloak through the somber streets

of the capital; the radiant homes of wealth and luxury, which gleamed

with the subdued light of a myriad of golden lamps and reëchoed with

the heart-easing strains of sweet music and the gladsome voices of

midnight revelry.

But the illusion was of short duration. The mauve-shot veil of tenuous

mist lifted under the ardent rays of the morning sun and the magic

city of Harun and his favorite Zobeide vanished to give place to the

squalid houses, narrow, crooked streets, and crumbling walls of a

time-stricken, war-battered city which is now but a shadow of what it

was in the days of its pristine glory.

As a compliment to our hosts we did not even express a wish to explore

the city, which we had come so far to see, until we had visited their

schools and those conducted by their heroic coworkers, the Sisters of

the Visitation of Tours. After having spent several most delightful

hours with teachers and pupils we sent for a trio of those white

donkeys for which Bagdad is so celebrated. Gentle as they are strong

and hardy, they willingly keep up an easy, ambling gait for hours at a

time without exhibiting the slightest evidence of fatigue. I learned

to value them a third of a century ago when traveling in Egypt and

I was glad to have an opportunity of again availing myself of their

service in the old capital on the Tigris. Here they take the place of

cabs which would not be at all available in the majority of the very

narrow streets of the city.

As the Carmelite monastery is in the heart of the city, we soon found

ourselves in the midst of a colorful scene that could not be surpassed

by anything similar either in Damascus or Stamboul. Such a seething

cauldron of races, such an utter confusion of tongues, such a motley

carnival of costumes from plain white and black to the gay fabrics

of Madras and the tawdry prints of Manchester! Here we meet men of

countless types and creeds and nationalities--Turks, Afghans, Persians,

Arabs, Indians, and Europeans; Jews, Hindus, Christians, Parsees,

Shiites, Sunnites, and Mohammedans of all the seventy-three sects

into which the Prophet of Mecca predicted Islam would eventually be

divided. The languages and dialects number more than a score, for which

reason the traveler in Bagdad would imagine that he hears fully as many

different tongues as were spoken by the builders of the Tower of Babel.

Indeed, not the least of the many difficulties which the British forces

encountered in their recent operations against the Turkish army was, we

are told, “the same which confronted the contractors for the old tower

so many thousands of years ago.”

The appearance of Bagdad, as we wandered through the maze of narrow,

filthy, noisome streets, was quite different from what it seemed when

we first saw it from our lazily moving kelek on the palm-fringed

Tigris, or when we gazed upon it enveloped in the delicate mist of

early morning. Then little was visible except domes and minarets

covered with bright-colored tiles and scintillating mosaics which

appeared to float in the opalescent atmosphere.

As in the case of all other eastern cities, Bagdad is more enchanting

at a distance than when viewed from her somber unsanitary and

intricate thoroughfares. And as we threaded our way through these

dingy streets and byways, flanked on either side by low, dun-colored,

windowless mud houses, we found it difficult to see in them, even in

fancy, the sumptuous homes that adorned the city in the time of Caliphs

and more difficult still to repeople them with the glamouring figures

of _Thousand and One Nights_.

But when one passes from these narrow and gloomy streets, that will

scarcely admit a camel, into the spacious courtyards with which even

the most unpretentious dwellings are provided, one is often surprised

at the magic transformation of the scene. Here one finds a profusion

of beautiful trees and shrubs and plants loaded with flowers of every

size and hue. Among the most conspicuous are the palm, the orange, and

the pomegranate whose bright green foliage is in striking contrast with

the flaming blooms of the hibiscus in which the Bagdadi takes as much

pleasure as do her dusky Hawaiian sisters in far-off Honolulu, with

whom these brilliant flowers are universal favorites.

A peculiarity of the habitations of the well-to-do of Bagdad is the

_serdab_, an underground chamber which is usually eight or

nine feet in height. It is here that the family lives during the

terrifically hot weather that prevails during summer and a part of

the spring and autumn. But, although the temperature is here ten

degrees lower than in the upper part of the house, the intense heat

of mid-summer, which often reaches 120° Fahrenheit in the shade, is

almost unbearable. As so great a part of the people spend much of

their time in the _serdab_, the city seems to be almost lifeless

during a greater part of the day. Towards sunset, however, it begins

to revive. The women then repair to the terraces of their dwellings

where they pass the night in talking, smoking, drinking sherbets, and

trying, when the mosquitoes permit, to get a little sleep. As to the

men, especially the Moslem portion of the population, they endeavor to

find some surcease of misery in the Lethean fumes of their chibouks and

hubble-bubbles. Most of them congregate in the countless coffeehouses

which, during the everlasting dog days of Bagdad, are thronged day

and night with all sorts and conditions of sweltering and par-baked

humanity.

Passing so much time in a state of semi-torpor, it is not surprising

that even the strongest constitutions soon succumb to the enervating

climate. Because of the intolerable heat, Europeans endeavor every

few years to find relief in a change of climate. But when this is not

possible, the majority of the foreign sufferers are short-lived. Thus

I was informed that the average life of the Carmelite missionaries in

southern Mesopotamia is only about nine years. But their premature

deaths do not deter them from continuing the work of charity to which

they are so devoted. As soon as one drops out of the ranks his place is

immediately taken by a zealous _confrère_ who is only too willing

to serve in the cause of the Master where the trials are most severe

and where the dangers are greatest and most imminent.

What with the grilling climate, defective drainage, ignorance and

neglect of the first principles of hygiene, one is not surprised to

learn that the population of Bagdad is periodically decimated by the

plague. Cholera is frequent. It was this dread visitant that carried

off General Maude, Commander-in-Chief of the British forces during the

recent campaign in Mesopotamia against the Turks.

We visited all the places of interest in the city but those in which

we found most local color were the bazaars. As we neared the principal

one of them we found the street crowded with Kurdish hamals bearing

incredible burdens, and quick-stepping white donkeys disputing the way

with awkwardly racking camels which snappishly sputtered or proudly

held aloft their supercilious noses while disdainfully sniffing the

air above the heads of shouting drivers. And round about us was a

vociferating throng that were roughly jostling one another in their mad

rush to force themselves into the alluring bazaars, which were already

filled with all kinds of curious idlers or prospective purchasers.

Although the bazaars of Bagdad are much smaller than those of Damascus

and Constantinople they are more interesting. This is not because of

the attractive wares, but rather on account of the strange and motley

crowd. And what a variety of garbs and what a medley of colors! There

are every type and shade of oriental face; every style of headdress;

every variety of costume one can conceive. Fezes, tarbooshes, keffiehs,

turbans, the brimless hat of the Baktiari, the long felt hats of the

Lurs and the Kurds; the black astrakan caps of the Russians and the

Persians. As to costumes, there is everything imaginable from the

primitive dhotee of the Hindu to the graceful full-flowing aba of the

Arabian mollah and the elaborately embroidered apparel of an Indian

rajah or the closely fitting frock coat of some prodigal nabob from

Europe in quest of strange curios or rare old rugs and tapestries from

Khorassan and Candahar.

The vesture of the women is even more variegated and costly and

resplendent than that of the men. Some are garbed in rich silks of

all the tints of the autumn leaf. Some are veiled, others unveiled,

according as they come from the Moslem, Jewish, or Christian quarter

of the city--but all are gathered around all the booths in which there

is a special display of feminine finery. There is no law in Islam to

prevent women from visiting the bazaars and whenever they desire to

escape the monotony of the harem they start out on a shopping tour

in which they take as much delight as do their sisters in the West.

Frequently they have no more intention of making purchases than have

the _habituées_ of the great department stores of Fifth Avenue or

the splendid jewelry shops of _La Rue de la Paix_.

My attention was directed to the large number of Jews who had shops

in the city and stalls in the bazaars. Many of them were specially

conspicuous on account of their cheap misfit garments from English and

German manufactories, which contrasted sharply with the costly and

elegant robes of some of their customers. For headdress most of them

wore black skull caps or flaming red fezes made in Vienna. But they all

had the same dark, prominent eyes, the same hot and shining looks, like

fanned flames, which so characterize the people of their races in other

parts of Mesopotamia and the Near East.

When I expressed surprise at the number of the descendants of Abraham

that we saw not only in the bazaars but in all parts of the city, one

of my companions informed me that they constituted fully one-fourth of

the population. The exact number of the inhabitants of Bagdad is not

definitely known, but it is variously estimated to be from one hundred

and fifty to two hundred thousand. There are, indeed, few, if any,

other large cities in the Near East in which the children of Abraham

have so great a representation in proportion to that of the adherents

of other religious beliefs.

The majority of the Jews in Bagdad are descendants of those who were

deported from Judæa to Babylonia by Nebuchadnezzar six centuries

before the Christian era. Others, doubtless, are descended from Hebrew

captives that were a century and a quarter earlier carried to Assyria

by Sargon and Tiglath-pileser III. Still others trace their descent

from those who voluntarily sought refuge in Mesopotamia after the

destruction of Jerusalem by the Romans and after the Holy City, many

centuries later, fell under the sway of Islam.

The favorable conditions under which the Jews of the Captivity lived

during the reign of the Babylonian monarchs, and even during the time

of the Abbasside Caliphs, induced many of their brethren to join them

in the fertile plains of the Tigris and the Euphrates. So satisfactory,

indeed, were the relations of the Jews with their Babylonian rulers,

that when, after they had been seventy years in captivity, Cyrus the

Great gave them permission to return to their native land, but few of

them, comparatively, availed themselves of the proffered opportunity.

The unsettled conditions of Palestine and the sad experiences of those

of their fellow countrymen who had returned to Jerusalem decided the

majority of the Jews to remain in Babylonia where, although nominally

captives, they enjoyed more peace, prosperity, and even more freedom

than it was possible to find in the ravaged and desolate land of their

fathers.

Once fairly settled in Babylonia, where they seem from the first to

have enjoyed a great measure of freedom, the mode of life and fortunes

of the Jews underwent a complete change. In their fatherland their

chief pursuits were pastoral and agricultural. In Mesopotamia also

they followed for a time the avocations of their forefathers. Thanks,

however, to the greater productivity of the soil in the fertile

Babylonian plain, which far surpassed that of the richest fields of

Judæa and to their native thrift and industry and keen eye to business

opportunities, which permitted no chance to escape them, it was not

long before the children of the exiles were living in ease and comfort,

while many of them soon found themselves in a position which, as

compared with that which they occupied in Palestine afforded them, in

Johnsonese phrase, “the potentiality of growing rich beyond the dreams

of avarice.”

From that time most of the Jews of Mesopotamia began to devote

themselves to commercial pursuits, which, more than anything else,

influenced the subsequent fortunes of their countrymen throughout the

world.

But not only did the descendants of the Jews of the Captivity achieve

distinction in the commercial world; they also became celebrated for

their attainments in science and letters. Under the Caliph Ali, in the

middle of the seventh century of our era the Jews of Irak--Southern

Babylonia--were able to organize what was almost an independent state.

Here flourished the great Talmudic schools of Sara and Pumbeditha

and here, in the country of their father Abraham, the Jews loved to

fancy the survival of a prince of the Captivity who had recovered the

scepter of David.[451] This was a period of notable prosperity for

Irak, a period when Bagdad was at the height of its glory; when it

was not only preëminent in science, art, and literature but was the

religious capital of Jewry as well as Islam.[452]

In conclusion, I may here answer a question which I have been often

asked, namely, “What of the future of Bagdad?” “Is there any hope of

its return to its former greatness and splendor?”

This is a difficult question to answer. When one remembers that two

other great capitals--Seleucia and Ctesiphon--once flourished only a

few leagues to the south of the city of the Caliphs and that now but

a vestige of them remains; when one remembers that Babylon, a short

distance to the southwest, was, for nearly two thousand years, the most

magnificent city of the ancient world, but that, under the demolishing

action of man and nature, it so completely disappeared that its very

site was long a matter of controversy, one will hesitate to make

any predictions about anything in a land in which the vicissitudes

of fortune have been so extraordinary and in which the conflicts of

international interests have been so relentless and so destructive.

And yet, when one travels over the matchless alluvial plains on which

stood the famous capitals that once controlled the destinies of

Western Asia, one cannot but feel that there is a brilliant future

in this celebrated region of the two rivers, but only when a stable

and enterprising government shall have been established--a government

whose purpose will be not to exploit the land and the populace for

its own selfish purposes, but a government that shall be willing to

guarantee to the people the blessings of peace and at the same time

honestly strive to secure for them their position in the family of

nations, to which their long and wonderful history gives them so just

a title.[453] Then and then only shall we again see the broad desert

of Mesopotamia blossoming as of old, and witness once more in the

Land of the Two Rivers a metropolis that shall recall the greatness

and the splendor of Babylon and Seleucia and Ctesiphon and of Bagdad

too,--Medinah-al-Salam--as it was in the golden prime of Al Mamun and

Harun-al-Rashid the Great.

From Berlin to Bagdad and Babylon · 第 16 / 20 章