Matting Boxes
Fig. 74 is from a photograph of a matting box—a form of chest
construction not devoid of popularity, as its neat appearance and
simple construction make it worthy of considerable favor.
[Illustration: Fig. 74]
Most matting boxes are made from wood other than cedar—cypress,
redwood, etc.—most any stock that can be secured in wide pieces—thus
doing away with gluing up. The pieces are simply nailed or screwed
together, corner strips glued in, and the matting applied. Such simple
construction makes this a favorable project for grammar grade students.
HOW TO MAKE A MATTING BOX
California redwood is recommended, as it is light, straight grained,
and does not warp easily. Dimensions can be secured from the working
drawings of the cedar chests given in the previous chapters.
The flat surfaces will need little planing by hand since they will be
entirely covered on the outside. The edges should be smoothly finished,
especially the upper edges, and the under side of the top should be
planed and sandpapered.
[Illustration: Fig. 75]
[Illustration: Fig. 76]
Cut the sides and ends to the desired shape, Figs. 75 and 76 offer
excellent suggestions, and square the ends of all four pieces. Nail or
screw the boards together, and glue in triangular corner strips on the
inside.
Nail the bottom in through the sides and ends, making the nail holes in
the ends about three times as wide as the nails to allow for expansion
and contraction, and give the sides a rather loose fit for the same
reason.
Fit the top carefully and round its upper edges. If the board is not
flat or glued-up from narrow pieces, it may be well to glue and nail
strips on its under side to straighten it and prevent warping, as Fig.
77 illustrates.
Shellac over the outside and inside of all pieces with at least two
coats of shellac, sandpapering the second on the inside. This is also
done to prevent warping.
[Illustration: Fig. 77]
PUTTING ON THE MATTING
The natural colored floor matting without decoration of any kind is to
be preferred. Trim off its thick edges, and cut the pieces carefully
to fit the surfaces, planning on the seams coming where they will be
covered with the strips of cane.
Allow these pieces to soak in warm water for two or three hours, then
tack them to their respective surfaces. Use ordinary carpet tacks with
large heads, or matting staples. Stretch the matting very tight over
the surface as the tacking proceeds, and when the water dries out a
perfect fit will be assured.
COVERING THE SEAMS AND EDGES
Split bamboo makes the best covering for the seams and edges, as it
blends so well with the matting. Small fish-poles may be secured,
soaked in hot water, and carefully split with a sharp knife on a
diameter, as each section should be semi-circular. Split bamboo porch
screens, at one time so popular, can be taken apart and used, or strips
may be purchased from a manufacturer of split bamboo fish-poles through
some sporting goods dealer.
Cut the strips the exact lengths desired, being very careful to make
good joints, drill small holes where the nails will come, and fasten
with round-head brads or brass escutcheon pins. Curves that require
much bending can be soaked in hot water until pliable before placing.
If a little decoration is desired on the bamboo, hold it over a flame
at intervals, scorching the surface brown. Dust this off and shellac
the strips before attaching them.
If it is impossible to secure bamboo of any kind, small strips of any
wood stained or white enameled will serve very well.
Place the hinges and chain, and the box is complete.
MAKING THE BOX MOTH-PROOF
If a cedar chest has been constructed and poorly finished, a covering
of matting will greatly improve its appearance, and without impairing
its moth-proof qualities if it is not finished on the inside.
If an ordinary matting box has been made, it can be rendered moth-proof
by putting in a bottom of red cedar, or covering the bottom with cedar
shavings, also mixing shavings in with the contents of the box when
storing them.
[Illustration: A chest used at the end of the Fourteenth Century]
INDEX
Page
Characteristics of Red Cedar, 14
Chest Design No. 2, 31
Chest Design No. 3, 33
Chest Design No. 4, 35
Chest Design No. 5, 37
Chest Design No. 6, 39
Chest Design No. 7, 41
Chest Design No. 8, 43
Chest Design No. 9, 43
Chest Design No. 10, 47
Chest Design No. 11, 49
Chest Design No. 12, 51
Chest Design No. 13, 53
Chest Design No. 14, 55
Chest Design No. 15, 57
Chest Design No. 16, 59
Chest Design No. 17, 61
Chest Design No. 18, 63
Chest Design No. 19, 65
Chest Design No. 20, 67
Chest Design No. 21, 69
Chest Design No. 22, 71
Chest of Drawers, 75
Coloring the Wood, 79
Copper Corners, 88
Copper Nails, 88
Copper Pulls, 87
Copper Trimmings, 82
Corner Strips, 27
Cover, 29
Decalcomania Transfers, 88
Depletion of the Cedar Supply, 11
Doweling, 22
Enamel Finish, 80
Escutcheons, 82
Feet, 27
Filling Rough Spots, 78
Finishing, 29
Finishing Cedar, 78
Finishing Copper, 88
Gluing, 23
Handles, 27
Hinge Plates, 88
Hinging, 29
Jointing, 21
Jointing and Gluing, 20
Joints Used in Chest Construction, 26
Lacquer Finish, 81
Log Houses of Cedar, 9
Making the Box Moth-Proof, 93
Making the Chest Dust-Proof, 28
Matting Boxes, 90
Mill Bill, 17
New England Chest, 15
Oil Finish, 80
Old Italian Chests, 15
Placing Bamboo, 92
Placing Matting, 92
Preparing Wood for Finishing, 78
Present Day Development, 16
Red Cedar, 9
Sawing Up Stock, 20
Sides and Ends, 19
Simple Chest Design, 17
Squaring Up, 25
Suggestive Designs, 77
Surfacing, 24
Top and Bottom, 20
Under-Bed Chest Design, 73
Varnish Finish, 56
Wax Finish, 79
Where Cedar Abounds, 9
William and Mary Design, 47
Transcriber’s Notes
pg 15 Changed: who kept their dowery of rich velvets
to: who kept their dowry of rich velvets
pg 93 Changed: without imparing its moth-proof qualities
to: without impairing its moth-proof qualities