Copper Trimmings
After the finish on the chest has thoroughly dried, any copper
trimmings desired can be applied, providing, of course, that the
appearance of the chest will be improved by them. If good joints have
been obtained on the corners, copper corners will help but little, but
if the joints are open, well-designed corners will cover up the defects
without detracting from the appearance of the chest. As a rule, handles
of cedar, well executed, look better than metal pulls attached to the
ends of the box, but if metal corners are employed the pulls should
also be of the same. If a lock is attached, it will need an escutcheon,
and hinge plates on the cover go well where the other metal trimmings
are adapted.
Sixteen-gauge copper is the metal usually employed. Brass looks well,
but it does not harmonize with the red cedar quite as attractively as
copper.
The design should be first worked out on paper, and transferred to
the metal by using carbon paper. Care should be exercised with the
designing. A poor design looks worse than no design at all—copper bands
with straight edges certainly give a pleasing appearance, as Fig. 29
shows. The student will do well to co-operate with the art teacher
when designing his trimmings. The illustrations in this chapter offer
suggestions for design, Fig. 67 showing escutcheons, Fig. 68 pulls,
Fig. 69 hinge plates, and Fig. 70 corners. Although these designs
do not emphasize it, the same motif should be used in every case.
For example, straight bands across the top should not be used with
fancy-sawed corners. A reasonably plain hinge plate will not look well
on a chest with very elaborate pulls and corners. Care should be given
this designing that the different parts do not show incongruity.
ESCUTCHEONS
The escutcheon can be small and plain, or rather long and fancy. Fig.
67 illustrates both kinds. The design should be symmetrical about the
vertical center line. The key hole size is dependent upon the size of
the key furnished with the lock, and its distance from the upper edge
is governed by the depth of the key hole in the lock.
[Illustration: _ESCUTCHEONS_
SHADED PORTIONS REPRESENT SAWED OUT PARTS
1 INCH
Fig. 67]
[Illustration: _PULLS_
1 INCH
Fig. 68]
[Illustration: _HINGE PLATES_
1 INCH
Fig. 69]
[Illustration: _CORNERS_
1 INCH
Fig. 70]
After the design has been carefully traced on the metal, it should be
cut out with a fine metal saw in a jeweler’s saw frame. The edges can
then be filed smooth. The inside cutting is accomplished by first
drilling a small hole, then inserting the saw and re-fastening it in
the frame.
Holes drilled for the tacks will complete the construction.
PULLS
The backs of the pulls are sawed out exactly like the escutcheon, the
handle being the most difficult part to construct. On the even wire
design, a piece of heavy round copper can be bent to shape. It is
fastened through a piece of thinner metal, which, in turn, is spread
out after passing through a slot sawed in the plate, Fig. 71. Those of
uneven designs, the first for example, can be sawed and filed from a
piece of copper 1” thick, or, if the school teaches molding, a wooden
pattern the shape and size of the pull can be made, a mold taken
from it, and a copper casting made in the mold. A little filing and
polishing will put the metal pull in excellent shape. Where the wire is
thicker in the middle, it can be hammered out or filed before bending,
as in Fig. 72. The boring of the nail holes in the plate will complete
the construction.
[Illustration: Fig. 71]
[Illustration: Fig. 72]
HINGE PLATES
Hinge plates are used on the cover to give the chest a more massive
appearance. They extend to the back edge, or are bent over it. After
the design has been traced on the metal, they are sawed, filed, and the
nail holes drilled as before.
CORNERS
Corners are made like hinge plates with the addition of a right angle
bend in the middle. This bending is accomplished by placing the metal
between two hardwood pieces screwed up in a vise, and driving the upper
half over with a mallet. In some instances, Fig. 19 is an example, the
corner does not go around the end, a flat plate covering the end grain
being fastened on the front only.
FINISH
The metal trimmings should be rubbed very briskly with fine steel wool,
and polished with water and pumice stone. They will keep this polish if
coated with banana oil or some other good lacquer. This finish should
be applied before the trimmings are fastened on the chest.
NAILS
Copper nails with various size heads can be obtained, or brass headed
tacks copper coated can be used in their stead. The copper plating can
be done by any plating concern, and at a very small cost.
DECALCOMANIA TRANSFERS
[Illustration: Fig. 73 Chest Decorated with Decalcomania Transfers]
A line of chests has recently appeared on the market with decorations
that appear to be hand painted. Fig. 73 gives an example. This form
of decoration results from the using of Decalcomania transfers, and,
since it is very attractive and easily applied, deserves notice in this
chapter.
The transfers are applied in colors to the Decalcomania paper, in which
condition they reach the consumer. The face of the transfer is sized
with a thin coat of varnish, the paper is placed in position on the
chest, and is then soaked off, very much as the small boy soaks off the
old-fashioned transfer pictures from his hand or arm. The operation
consumes but very little time and when properly done, the decoration is
as much a part of the piece as the finish itself.
It is applied over the final finish, or it can be put on before the
last coat of varnish is placed.
Many excellent designs are available, especially in marquetry and pearl
inlay where the work has been reproduced so carefully as to challenge
detection. A chest decorated with a fine band of inlay lines of black
and holly presents a wonderfully attractive appearance.
Decalcomania transfers can be obtained only from the manufacturers. The
Meyercord Company, Inc., Chicago.
[Illustration: An Italian Chest of the Fifteenth Century (Made in
Florence about 1475)]